Revolution
Introducing L.U.C Chopard’s Novelties at Watches & Wonders 2021
L.U.C Chopard’s 2021 watches are all mostly familiar faces, but in executions that are all very decidedly contemporary, rather than classically elegant.
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Revolution
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Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925
Met with critical and commercial acclaim at its launch in 2018, the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight hit the sweet spot with enthusiasts who had been clamouring for a Black Bay in a trimmer and smaller case. At Watches & Wonders 2021, Tudor releases two variants of the model that are perhaps its most unusual dive watches ever: the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 in sterling silver, and the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K in solid yellow gold. Initial Thoughts Though a precious-metal case for a “tool” watch seems incongruent, it’s a familiar combination for high-end sports watches. But Tudor has done it differently, with the evocative 925 silver case a perfect match for the Fifty-Eight, which is at heart a vintage remake. The look of the Fifty-Eight 925 is pure understatement – a low-key yet striking watch that will be recognised only by those in the know. Thankfully, Tudor resisted using faux-aged Super-Luminova on the hour markers and Snowflake hands, a decision that preserves the watch’s clean look. The Fifty-Eight 925 in sterling silver And the look is clean. The bezel and dial are in taupe – a restrained grey-brown – a versatile colour that is studiedly neutral. Despite the inconspicuous colour – and specifically because of it – the watch is actually quite noticeable on the wrist. It is vaguely vintage in style, which goes with the soft, silvery colour of the case. Given both the colour and smaller case size, the Fifty-Eight 925 is perhaps the most gender neutr...
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Patek Philippe Introduces the Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A in Olive
Perhaps the world’s most desirable wristwatch, the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A became even more sought after when was made known earlier this year that the model would be discontinued. To give it a proper send-off, the brand is now unveiling the final iteration of the Nautilus in steel, this time with an olive green dial. The base model, if it can be called that, is the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-014, but the model will also be available with a diamond-set bezel as the Nautilus ref. 5711/1300A-001, which is notable for being the first time Patek Philippe is setting diamonds on a steel men’s watch. The Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-014 And the Nautilus ref. 5711/1300A-001 Initial thoughts Green seems to be the new blue, and Patek Philippe is very much on board the bandwagon with its new Nautilus ref. 5711/1A – though it’s arguable Patek Philippe is helping start the trend just because the Nautilus is, well, the Nautilus. Already impossible to get, at least at the affordable retail price, the steel Nautilus will definitely be the rarest in green, out of all three variants (the others being the original blue dial, and the later white dial) and thus the most covetable. In essence, the new Nautilus is just a facelift. The case, movement, and bracelet remain the same – the only change is the olive green dial, which retains the signature, horizontal-stamped pattern. But given the impending discontinuation of the ref. 5711/1A, the mere fact there’s a new model has sent everyone into ...
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First Impressions: Cartier Privé Cloche de Cartier
Unveiled alongside the fancy Cloche Skeleton, the Privé Cloche de Cartier is the latest vintage design to be revived by the Parisian jeweller. Less famous than the Tank or Santos, the Cloche is nevertheless an original design that quirkier than the typical Cartier case. Designed in the 1920s and shaped like a bell – cloche is French for “bell” – the Cloche has been a fixture in Cartier’s catalogue for decades, but only ever produced in small numbers, explaining its relatively obscurity. The last major edition of the model was the Collection Privee Cartier Paris (CPCP) limited edition of 2007 – 100 in yellow gold with a silver dial – though smaller runs and custom models were made in the interim. The new Privé Cloche is offered in three metals – either pink or yellow gold as well as platinum – each limited to 100 pieces. The Cloche variants. Image – Cartier Initial thoughts The Cloche is a quirky but appealing shape that brings to mind “driver’s” watches, but is an original design in itself. The newest iteration of the century-old design is the largest to date, making it a good size for a formal-dress watch even by modern standards. The case is fairly wide, and also thick enough it doesn’t feel delicate. The only aspect of the design I question is the strap, which feels too narrow, especially on a bare wrist that isn’t under a shirt cuff. Although the design is classic Cartier, the colours and details give the Cloche a more modern feel. The d...
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INTRODUCING: A strong 70s revival sees the reawakening of the Baume & Mercier Riviera
Revisiting a distinct design with roots from 1973, Baume & Mercier has reinvented their Riviera range and we caught just as it was putting its gloves on and jumping into the ring to battle it out. What was it fighting for? I am, of course, talking about the legendary Integrated Bracelet Middleweight Belt and, yes, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: A strong 70s revival sees the reawakening of the Baume & Mercier Riviera appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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INTRODUCING: TAG Heuer updates their Formula 1 collection with 4 fresh blasts of colour
It’s no secret that I adore Formula 1. I’m that fan who watches the full press conferences, keeps up to date with all the brewing rumours, and even stays up until 4am bingeing Netflix’s Drive To Survive, screenshooting the drivers’ and team bosses’ watches as I go. But, even I have to admit, TAG Heuer … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: TAG Heuer updates their Formula 1 collection with 4 fresh blasts of colour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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VIDEO: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono S&G; is a two-tone bruiser with winning charm
The Tudor Black Bay Chrono S&G; has somewhat been left in the shadows of the oh-so-perfect-but-slightly-over-hyped 58. The original Black Bay 58 in black is actually part of my own collection, and while it does sit on my wrist with a calm, quiet confidence, I have toyed with the idea of flipping it for this … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Tudor Black Bay Chrono S&G; is a two-tone bruiser with winning charm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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The Naked Watchmaker explains what it takes to make a movement a COSC-certified Chronometer?
Ever since our story on the inner workings of COSC here, via an in-depth article by The Naked Watchmaker, our thirst for horological knowledge remain. More specifically, what it takes to make a movement a COSC-certified Chronometer? And what is the intrinsic value of the certification? We caught up with Peter Speake the co-founder of … ContinuedThe post The Naked Watchmaker explains what it takes to make a movement a COSC-certified Chronometer? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Max Büsser on the MB&F; LMX, an LM1 on Steroids
Max Büsser tells us about the LMX, created to mark the MB&F; Legacy Machine family of watches’ 10th anniversary, the idea behind which, in his words, was to, “basically take the original LM1, which is the beginning of the story and put it on steroids.”
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Frederique Constant Unveils 40 Hz Silicon Oscillator
Best known for affordable complications, Frederique Constant’s recent watches include a flyback chronograph for US$4,000 and a perpetual calendar for a bit under US$10,000. But the brand has also applied modern technology to its watchmaking with its analog smartwatches. The brand’s latest offering is cutting-edge horology, but in a mechanical movement. The Slimline Monolithic Manufacture is equipped with an automatic movement that runs at 40 Hz, or 288,000 beats per hour (bph), thanks to a compliant-mechanism silicon oscillator instead of a balance wheel. Initial thoughts It’s a pleasant surprise to see Frederique Constant delving into advanced horological solutions with its silicon compliant mechanism and entering a space often associated with pricier brands like Ulysse Nardin and Zenith. Even more impressive is the fact that the movement is not just as a concept, but a commercially available watch that will be in stores in fall of this year and priced relatively affordably, starting at €4,495, or about US$5,300, in steel. The advanced movement leaves the design of the Monolithic Manufacture incongruous with its classical styling and a truly modern oscillator. However, as such watches go, the design is not the point – it is all about the novel escapement that will certainly pique the interest of technical-minded enthusiasts. Hi-tech collab The high-frequency silicon oscillator was born of a collaboration with Flexous, a startup focused on compliant mechanis...
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Omega Introduces the Seamaster Diver 300M Black Black
With no physical launch event this year, Omega unveiled its new watches in a prerecorded video that concluded with a cameo by its brand ambassador George Clooney. The line up was compact, indicating there will be more new models later in the year. There was only a single Seamaster Diver amongst the new offerings, and it was the Seamaster Diver 300M Black Black. Initial thoughts Reminiscent of the Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon, Seamaster Black Black is typical of Omega in its quality and technology. It’s almost entirely ceramic on the outside, made up of components sintered, sculptured, and sanded with precision. And the Co-Axial Master Chronometer movement within boasts all of the brand’s technical innovations. For a bit under US$9,000, it is a fair deal for the quality and materials. But the all-black look is dated. The pioneer of the look was the Big Bang All Black of 2006, one of Jean-Claude Biver’s opening acts at Hublot. Its success created a wave of all-black watches that lasted for about a decade. And the novelty of the coloured ceramic will be quickly lost if additional variants in other colours of ceramic are introduced, as happened with the Dark Side of the Moon. Black ceramic The dial, bezel, case middle, and case back of the new Seamaster are all black ceramic, specifically zirconium dioxide, or ZrO2. The dial is etched with laser, creating an alternating polished and matte finish, with the polished elements standing out in slight relief. And to prese...
WatchAdvice
2021 Zenith Defy 21 Ultrablue Review
Pros: Calibre El Primero 9004 and it’s 1/100th of a second Chronograph Skeletonised Ultrabule dial Microblasted titanium case Cons: Wrist sizes smaller than 6.5ich won’t be able to enjoy the 44mm case size Some may find it to be too thick on the wrist Spend countless minutes staring at the 1/100th of second hand in motion Over All Rating: 8.4/10 Value for money – 8.0/10Wearability – 8.0/10Design – 9/10Build Quality – 8.5/10 In June 2020, Zenith introduced the first new “spectrum” of colour for their DEFY 21 chronograph model. The DEFY 21 model was given an ultraviolet finish, which let’s be honest was absolutely stunning! The ultraviolet treatment was given to the majority of the timepiece, the main plate, the rotor on the case back and the colour on the fabric effect strap. Combine this with the subtle matte finish of the micro-blasted titanium case, and what you are left with is a timepiece that is hard to put down. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Chamath Gamage (@champsg) Now, Zenith has released this DEFY 21 model in their latest colour scheme, Ultrablue. Never being afraid to create artistic masterpieces in watchmaking, Zenith has introduced this latest colour on the back of what can only be seen as a successful launch to the DEFY 21 Ultravoilet. The colours used in the Ultrablue to produce the standout effect are cool tones of deep indigo and electric blue. The only question is, does the Ultrablue live up to the same hype as the...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Zenith DEFY 21 Ultrablue adds a touch of indigo to a high-tech tour de force
Only two weeks ago we introduced you to the firework display of bedazzling colours in the DEFY 21 Felipe Pantone, which hypnotised us with small, fresh flashes of the rainbow. This time, Zenith shows us how the angular tool presence of the DEFY series projects an image of quiet elegance, in the Zenith DEFY 21 … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Zenith DEFY 21 Ultrablue adds a touch of indigo to a high-tech tour de force appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Montblanc Debuts the 1858 Split Second Chronograph in Lime Gold
A watchmaker that was once a prominent maker of chronographs, Minerva is the star in Montblanc’s mountain. Since the pen-turned-watchmaker took over Minerva, it has launched several chronographs powered by Minerva calibres. The flagship chronograph is arguably the mono-pusher split-second first launched in bronze two years ago. Montblanc has since rolled out several additional iterations, but in affordable alloys like titanium. Now the brand has finally unveiled the first precious-metal version, the 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 18 in “Lime Gold”. Initial thoughts Two qualities often distinguish the great from the good in chronographs – a balanced, attractive dial combined with an intricate, good-looking movement – and all the better if the watch is priced well. The 1858 Split Second Chronograph is, by the two measures, a high performer. Let’s begin with the aesthetics. While splendid looking movements with high technical content are rare, it’s even less common combined with good design on the front. That is why I appreciate the 1858 chronograph – the dial is well done, with the positions of the counters just right, giving it a rare finesse. And even though the dial is busy, the many elements are harmoniously arranged. Admittedly, the design is not new, it’s essentially a replica of early 20th century dials, but Montblanc reproduced it just right. The counters at the sweet spot, not too far from the edge of the dial The movement is simil...
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The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon DeepQUEST Ceramic is a super deep diver (to the tune of 1km)
Ball’s Engineer Hydrocarbon DeepQUEST has been known for many things – the monobloc titanium case, an automatic helium escape valve built into the crown, lume you could light a nightclub with – but it’s fair to say it hasn’t always been fêted for handsome looks. Sure, last year’s DeepQUEST II had a personality to match … ContinuedThe post The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon DeepQUEST Ceramic is a super deep diver (to the tune of 1km) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Introducing Audemars Piguet’s 2021 Collection of Watches
The lowdown on all of Audemars Piguet’s freshness offerings in 2021, with Royal Oaks galore and the Calibre 4401 now in the Royal Oak Chronograph.
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Audemars Piguet Introduces Royal Oak “Jumbo” in Platinum and Green
Conceived as a home-like atmosphere – and located in more discreet locations than traditional boutiques – AP Houses are key to Audemars Piguet’s retail strategy. And now the handful of AP Houses around the world have their own exclusive edition, the Royal Oak “Jumbo” in platinum with a smoked green dial. Initial thoughts The Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 15202 is an iconic design, and one of the genuine instances where the label is applied correctly. It’s also thin and elegant, while having a substantial presence. And the cal. 2121 inside is an old but impressively sophisticated calibre. But the Jumbo is also one of the hottest watches today, and its desirability has long become disconnected with its intrinsic qualities. Being platinum, the latest version is extremely expensive, but also extremely attractive. The weight and lustre of the metal – especially combined with the fine case finishing of the Royal Oak – gives it tremendous tangible appeal. And the green dial, while not novel (it isn’t a modern-day invention but H. Moser is today’s best practitioner of the smoked finish), looks good. The new Jumbo is, in short, a beautiful watch that’s going to be rather hard to obtain. House exclusive There are seven AP Houses around the world, including in New York, London, Hong Kong, and Bangkok, which will be the only venues to obtain the new Jumbo. Production will be limited to 100 watches in the first year, which means each AP House should get about two a...
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN - THE GREEN EDITION: St Pat’s Day, Audemars Piguet, Olive dials and Dublin contributor joins the team!
Sometimes when I sit down on a Friday afternoon with a beverage of some description (today, an ‘Almond Negroni’ my colleague Matt claims he invented) to write the Friday Wind Down, I need to pause for a moment to consider the theme of the week. Not this week. This week, everywhere I look, it’s green, … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN – THE GREEN EDITION: St Pat’s Day, Audemars Piguet, Olive dials and Dublin contributor joins the team! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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RECOMMEND READING: The insane craftsmanship in the Bulgari Octo Finissimo revealed by The Naked Watchmaker
It’s no secret we are rather enamoured with the Bulgari Octo Finissimo and calling it a micro-technological marvel of the new century would not be overselling it. Following our article on Bulgari’s latest chapter of one-upmanship – where they managed to somehow engineer a tourbillon to fit the already infinitessimally optimised space inside the angular … ContinuedThe post RECOMMEND READING: The insane craftsmanship in the Bulgari Octo Finissimo revealed by The Naked Watchmaker appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Jason Statham shows that action heroes still wear Panerai
While Panerai was founded way back in 1860, its rise to prominence came on the back of a very specific type of celebrity: the action hero. It was thanks to the likes of Sylvester Stallone and Arnold Schwarzenegger that brand awareness soared following wrist-bound cameos in films like Daylight, Eraser, Rambo IV and The Expendables … ContinuedThe post Jason Statham shows that action heroes still wear Panerai appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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I bonded with Paul Newman over a Timex Ironman, but you’ll be surprised what was on his wrist
I met Paul Newman once. Back in 2001, I spent an hour in his company. Just him and me chatting in a drawing room in Barretstown Castle, Ireland, where he had set up a residential camp for seriously ill children. Sure, he was a little slow on a staircase at that stage but trust me, … ContinuedThe post I bonded with Paul Newman over a Timex Ironman, but you’ll be surprised what was on his wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Living With: Urwerk UR-100V T-Rex
The sixth variant of Urwerk’s entry-level model, the UR-100V T-Rex is classical Urwerk in form and complication. But the UR-100 in general is simpler and smaller than the average Urwerk, although the T-Rex is more extreme than the average Urwerk in terms of aesthetics. The heavy patina on the pronounced hobnail-milled case is primeval and lives up to its name. Urwerk lent me an example to wear for a couple of days – I was grateful especially since I got to compare it with the brand’s earlier, and heavier, models – and here’s how it went. The T-Rex of 2021 (left), next to the UR-103 of two decades ago Initial thoughts Reasonably compact, thin, and lightweight, the UR-100 is probably the most easily wearable Urwerk wristwatch to date. It’s also the closest to being a conventional watch – though it is still far from a conventional watch – which perhaps explains some of its wearability. And it is very wearable, particularly compared to precious-metal models. Not only is it light and manageable in size, the shape of the case back helps it sit better on the wrist. Being essentially the same watch, the T-Rex wears just as well as the other versions of the UR-100. Compared to most other Urwerk models, the UR-100 feels almost like an ordinary watch on the wrist. The recent UR-220 comes close because it is surprisingly lightweight, but it’s still a noticeably larger watch. And the T-Rex is equally as functional as other Urwerk watches with the satellite-disc time...
Time+Tide
This is why smart collectors are hunting the rare Chanel J12 3125 (ref. H2918)
The Chanel J12 has recently been overhauled by the brand to leverage a more unisex 38mm case size. In addition, its movement is now produced by Kenissi, the joint venture between Tudor, Breitling and Chanel – the latter owning a 20% stake in the movement manufacture. The movement inside the standard J12 today is therefore … ContinuedThe post This is why smart collectors are hunting the rare Chanel J12 3125 (ref. H2918) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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INTRODUCING: This minty-fresh foursome celebrates the Seiko 140th Anniversary from a tough Seiko 5 to the technical tour de force of Astron.
It’s 140 years since Seiko founder Kintaro Hattori established his first watchmaking shop in Tokyo. To mark this occasion, the Seiko designers must’ve had a craving for menthol judging by the icy cool aesthetics of the Seiko 140th Anniversary collection. Seiko 5 Sports 140th Anniversary Limited Edition SRPG47K1 Let’s kick off with the most accessible … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: This minty-fresh foursome celebrates the Seiko 140th Anniversary from a tough Seiko 5 to the technical tour de force of Astron. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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MICRO MONDAYS: Furlan Marri deliver retro chronographs at a great price in their assured debut collection
The 1940s were peak years for twin register chronographs with some notable greats from Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and Lemania. As the functional sports watches of that era, the typical twin register layout was balanced with a delicate design language and an often whimsical art-deco flourish to the graphics. In 2021, their intricate detail and … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Furlan Marri deliver retro chronographs at a great price in their assured debut collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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From Patek Philippe to Tudor - 10 of the best watches under 40mm (Part 1)
Confession time: I do not have the largest wrists in the world. Last time I checked, my wrist circumference came in not far above six inches. That being said, I wear watches ranging from 32mm to 43mm in diameter because, as I have explained before, it really is more about lug-to-lug when it comes to … ContinuedThe post From Patek Philippe to Tudor – 10 of the best watches under 40mm (Part 1) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Special Edition
It doesn’t feel like that long ago since Lewis Hamilton became the most decorated F1 driver of all time, winning his seventh world championship in November after a COVID-disrupted but nevertheless enjoyable 2020 season. Now, with less than a month until the 2021 calendar kicks off in Bahrain, there is no shortage of things to … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Special Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Louis Erard Unveils an Affordable ‘Grand Feu’ Enamel Time-Only
Best known recently for its collaborations with independent watchmakers – the Le Régulateur Vianney Halter sold out in a matter of hours – Louis Erard has been gaining recognition for making the style of high-end watchmaking affordable. Continuing with that focus, the brand has just announced the Excellence Email Grand Feu, a time-only wristwatch with a traditional enamel dial in a striking ivory hue. The grand feu, or fired-in-an-oven, enamel dial is fairly difficult to manufacture, resulting in a rejection rate that’s often over half. As a result, such dials are usually only found in high-end watches. It’s Louis Erard’s first use of a fired enamel dial, but true to form, the brand has retained its usual pricing positioning with a retail price of under 4,000 Swiss francs. Initial thoughts Given the frequent enthusiast gripe that watch prices (or values) border on the absurd, it would seem that true value propositions are hard to come by. There are a few exceptions – Tudor, Longines, and a few independents for instance – with Louis Erard increasingly being one of them. The brand offers an honest product, often with one or two elements historically found only in haute horlogerie, for not so much money. The Excellence Email Grand Feu is exactly that. And the dial is particularly appealing in ivory, instead of the usual bright white that is the favoured colour for fired enamel. Notably, the dial is made by Donzé Cadrans, the well-known enamel dial maker ...
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Watches by movement: 5 watches powered with an SW200 from divers to dress
As far as ubiquitous movements go, the SW200 and its variants is one to make your eyes light up when you see it on a specification sheet. Originally a clone of the ever-loved ETA 2824, once the patent had expired, Sellita’s version remains just as reliable, affordable and well-performing as its ETA twin. The 4Hz … ContinuedThe post Watches by movement: 5 watches powered with an SW200 from divers to dress appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Grand Seiko Debuts the GMT “Seasons” Collection
A simple but bestselling complication for Grand Seiko, the dual-time zone GMT received a makeover for Seiko’s 140th anniversary. The result is a quartet of GMT watches that evoke the changing landscapes in Japan as the seasons change. Made up of both Hi-Beat and Spring Drive models, the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Seasons” all share the same classically-styled case that has been associated with the GMT since the very first model. Each of the four watches is inspired by specific phases of each season. In East Asian cultures, each of the four seasons is further divided into six phases – known as 節気, or sekki, in Japan – to capture the subtle changes within a season. Each of the new GMT models is inspired by a sekki from each season. Consequently, the watches are each distinct in colours and finish, having inspiration as varied as green-cherry trees to the dark, moonlit sky. The GMT “Shunbun” SBGJ251 Initial thoughts The quartet exemplifies the style of modern-day Grand Seiko, especially in the splendid dials that translate the local landscape into intricate stamped patterns. And the cases are elegantly shaped but solid, and finished with Zaratsu flat polishing that is synonymous with Grand Seiko. Because all four watches are powered by longstanding movements – instead of the latest-generation 9SA5 that costs a lot more – the prices are all in line with existing models, US$6,300 for the Spring Drive GMT and US$7,100 for Hi-Beat automatics. Though ...