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Our Predictions In The Calendar And Astronomy Category Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): No Consensus Highlights The Strong Competition Quill & Pad
Oct 8, 2021

Our Predictions In The Calendar And Astronomy Category Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): No Consensus Highlights The Strong Competition

Complication abounds in the 2021 GPHG Calendar and Astronomy category: two perpetual calendars – one of which is of world record-holding thinness – a complete calendar with chronograph, a clever day-date that you can’t help but smile at, a mind-blowingly beautiful moon phase watch, and the world’s smallest planetarium. And our panel members all (well, nearly all) have different favorites to win!

Highlights: IWC Big Pilots in Singapore SJX Watches
IWC Big Pilots Sep 17, 2021

Highlights: IWC Big Pilots in Singapore

Fully booked before it even opened, the IWC Big Pilot Exhibition in Singapore recently closed its doors and the 31 Big Pilot’s Watches that were on show have returned home to the IWC Museum in Schaffhausen. But for those who missed the show, we round up some of the historically significant examples that were on displayed. The lineup naturally includes the very first Big Pilot’s Watch ref. 5002, and also the ultra-rare Markus Bühler “Turbine” ref. 5003. (And the Big Pilot Roadshow will happen in various cities in the United States starting September; details at the end of this article.) 2002 – Big Pilot’s Watch ref. 5002 The modern-day Big Pilot can be traced back to the gigantic beobachtungsuhr (or”B-uhr” for short) that IWC supplied to the German air force in 1940. The one that started it all was the Big Pilot’s Watch ref. 500201 (widely known as the ref. 5002) that debuted at Baselworld in 2002. Codenamed “Big Pilot’s Watch – Mark XXI” while in development, the Big Pilot was due in part to the commercial success of the compact Mark 12 pilot’s watch. At the same time, it was also devised as a platform for the recently-launched, seven-day automatic cal. 5000, a movement large enough that the resulting pilot’s watch had to be, well, big. And big it was, though the ref. 5002 was smaller than the second world war original that was 55 mm. Still it retained many of the elements that defined the vintage B-uhr – onion crown, Arabic numerals, ...

Audemars Piguet introduces three highly complicated pieces into the 2021 collection Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Sep 14, 2021

Audemars Piguet introduces three highly complicated pieces into the 2021 collection

Holy trinity is a term that gets tossed around a fair bit. Its origins and usage are debated by some within the community, but I personally recognise the three holy trinity brands as the manufacturers who have had the longest, most prestigious and continuous production: Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin. Lately, the marketplace … ContinuedThe post Audemars Piguet introduces three highly complicated pieces into the 2021 collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Czapek Introduces the Antarctique Rattrapante SJX Watches
Czapek Introduces Sep 1, 2021

Czapek Introduces the Antarctique Rattrapante

Czapek & Cie unveiled the Antarctique a year ago, its first foray into the popular category of luxury-sports watches. While the Antarctique had many of the elements synonymous with a luxury-sports watch, namely a steel case, blue dial, and integrated bracelet, it lacked what is arguably the signature element of Czapek’s design DNA – a pair of sub-dials at five and seven. Just unveiled at Geneva Watch Days, the followup to the original model combines a light touch of high horology with styling more faithful to the brand’s origins – the Antarctique Rattrapante, which is also the brand’s first split-seconds chronograph. Initial thoughts At a glance, the Antarctique Rattrapante is a noble effort in fusing the brand’s signature look with a modern, open-worked dial. Aesthetically, the design works well. The concept of having the entire split-seconds chronograph module visible on the dial creates an intricate view of the mechanics that would normally be hidden. And the mechanics are interesting, as the look is the result of substantial contortions to lower the sub-dials while ensuring they do not run into the gear train for the central hands. Notably, the repositioning was done with extra wheels – the chronograph mechanism actually has the registers in their traditional three and nine positions. At its core however, the chronograph remains a traditional, mono-pusher mechanism, albeit one that’s modular. The split-seconds mechanism does lack a key feature found ...

Greubel Forsey Unveils the GMT Earth Final Edition Titanium SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Unveils Aug 30, 2021

Greubel Forsey Unveils the GMT Earth Final Edition Titanium

The GMT and tourbillon have long been a favourite combination at Greubel Forsey, but the watchmaker is bringing the combo to an end – at least in its current form – with the GMT Earth Final Edition. Greubel Forsey (GF) is closing the model’s run with a version in titanium, matched with an all-black palette, giving it a look and feel that’s sportier than the earlier GMT Earth models, which were primarily cased in precious metals. Initial thoughts GF has offered a variety of models with a GMT complication, with each having being iterated several times in small runs. But the GMT Earth has always stood out for its simplicity – compared with the model boasting twin double-axis tourbillons for instance – yet it packs in all the defining features of the brand’s travel-time watch, such as a fully-visible rotating globe that indicates day or night around the world and of course the 24-second, inclined tourbillon. That makes it ideal for someone who wants the essence of a GF travel watch in a simple (relatively speaking) package. And the GMT Earth Final Edition the coolest looking of the bunch, with a dark dial that goes well with the greyish titanium case. It’s a good look that’s gives the watch a more edgy, futuristic design, setting it apart from the typical GF. And the darker colours should leave the 45.5 mm case appearing smaller. Unlike other ultra high-end sport(y) watches, such as those from Richard Mille, GF is slightly restrained in terms of aesthetic...

Calling All Up and Coming Young Watchmakers SJX Watches
F.P. Journe seeks out Aug 26, 2021

Calling All Up and Coming Young Watchmakers

Every year F.P. Journe seeks out the world’s most promising young clock- and watchmakers and selects one, or sometimes a handful, to receive the year’s F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition prize. The 2022 contest is now open for submissions. Contestants must be between the ages of 18 and 30 years old, and have “independently designed and created a timepiece and/or technical construction”. A jury of industry notables, including Philippe Dufour and Francois-Paul Journe himself, will then decide on the winner, who receives a CHF20,000 grant. This year’s winner was Mario Scarpatetti, who devised a secular perpetual calendar clock. Past winners include Russian watchmaker Anton Suhanov, who has built monumental table clocks, including one with a triple-axis tourbillon within a metal flower, and Remy Cools, who unveiled his first wristwatch tourbillon not too long ago. To enter the contest, submit your entry on fpjourne.com. The deadline for submissions is February 25, 2022.  

Go faux it or faux pas? @timepeacer customizes his Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Navy Blue Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Navy Aug 18, 2021

Go faux it or faux pas? @timepeacer customizes his Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Navy Blue

Vintage watches and retro aesthetics have been dominant forces in the watch marketplace. A well and evenly patinated watch is an extremely valuable commodity, and these sorts of references can fetch incredible hammer prices at auction or among the many vendors who deal in vintage watches. But considering the high price tags for these properly … ContinuedThe post Go faux it or faux pas? @timepeacer customizes his Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Navy Blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Exhibition: Vintage Art-Deco Gems by Vacheron Constantin in Singapore SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Aug 10, 2021

Exhibition: Vintage Art-Deco Gems by Vacheron Constantin in Singapore

“Classic with a Twist” is the year’s theme for Vacheron Constantin. The “twist” is obvious in several of the brand’s new releases, including the 1921 Collection Excellence Platine and Égérie for ladies, which were launched at the virtual watch fair Watches & Wonders. Interestingly, the launch also provided a glimpse of a few equally quirky watches from Vacheron Constantin’s vast archive. Now those historical gems have been transformed from virtual to tangible with an exhibition in Singapore that delves into the form watches that Vacheron Constantin produced in the early- to mid-20th century. Intriguing, unorthodox, and pretty, the dozen or so watches are on show from now until August 26 2021. Here’s a roundup of highlights from the Singapore exhibition. Show and service The Singapore event is one of several Classic with a Twist exhibitions taking place around the world over the year. Another is happening simultaneously in Vacheron Constantin’s recently-opened boutique in New York City, where it’ll run until November 2021. But unique to the Singapore event is a complimentary servicing for any American 1921, the distinctive wristwatch that’s celebrating its centenary this year – Vacheron Constantin even created a near-exact replica created with vintage parts for the occasion. The overhaul offer is open to any American 1921 wristwatch owned locally, including examples with expired warranties. The ref. 11677 from 1921 that serves as the inspira...

Patek Philippe Shows Off Its 2021 Rare Handcrafts Featuring Sky Moon Tourbillon, Minute Repeater QP, Golden Ellipse, Ladies First, And Nautilus Watches Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Shows Off Aug 7, 2021

Patek Philippe Shows Off Its 2021 Rare Handcrafts Featuring Sky Moon Tourbillon, Minute Repeater QP, Golden Ellipse, Ladies First, And Nautilus Watches

In 2021, Patek Philippe is once again drawing attention to the decorative arts that help make its watches so exceptional, further staking claim in the preservation of many of the traditional skills and techniques that date to the manufacture’s roots. And now six new versions of familiar watch models have been presented to highlight Patek Philippe's Rare Handcrafts.

HANDS-ON: The Zenith Chronomaster Original Collection offers vintage perfection on a 38mm dial Time+Tide
Zenith Chronomaster Original Collection offers Jul 31, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Zenith Chronomaster Original Collection offers vintage perfection on a 38mm dial

Zenith have a track record for having their fingers on the pulse of the watch world. In the ‘60s, they spent nearly the entire decade developing the El Primero to be the world’s first integrated automatic chronograph movement. Back then, the world was crying out for innovation: new techniques, new designs and new possibilities. Now, … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Zenith Chronomaster Original Collection offers vintage perfection on a 38mm dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

OWNER’S REVIEW: a month in with the Kurono Anniversary 朱鷺:Toki Time+Tide
Rolex Jul 22, 2021

OWNER’S REVIEW: a month in with the Kurono Anniversary 朱鷺:Toki

At this stage in my collection I look for variety. Truth be told, I have already ticked a lot boxes: a stainless-steel professional Rolex, a high-horology watch with exquisite hand-finishing, divers, GMTs, chronographs etc, so it is hard for me to justify buying more and more of the same. One example: I love the new … ContinuedThe post OWNER’S REVIEW: a month in with the Kurono Anniversary 朱鷺:Toki appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-on with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore self-winding Chronograph WatchAdvice
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore self-winding Jul 12, 2021

Hands-on with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore self-winding Chronograph

First up, let me get something off my chest. I have never been a fan of the movement used in the AP Royal Oak Offshore. As much as I like the style of the watch, I’ve always felt the movement isn’t up to scratch, especially for the price. Of course, not many people will care about this, but one look at how deep-set the date is, and you know clearly that it is a modular construction (module by Dubois-Deprez). And really, at $50k a pop, is it really too much to ask for an integrated chronograph movement? I’m sure there are many out there who will argue that this is part of the charm. It’s what makes the Royal Oak Offshore different. But I have a feeling given how hyped the watches are, people are only too happy to buy one when one is available, and straight away, blinders come on, and the denial begins. Especially when the layout is exactly the same as the ubiquitous ETA 7750 chronographs (12-9-6 sub-dials). Again, nothing wrong with the ETA 7750. In fact, it is one of my favourite entry-level, workhorse movements, but even this one is integrated… Fine. Call me a chronograph snob if you like. As we all know, this hobby is highly personal and highly subjective. I just prefer my chronographs to be integrated. (Although I’m not fussy regarding whether it’s a vertical or horizontal clutch, and whether or not the engagement is controlled by a column-wheel or a cam/lever assembly – I’m sure there are people out there who swears by one form over another…)  This...

Crushed by Antiques Roadshow - this Cartier pocket watch was not worth what she thought it was… Time+Tide
Cartier pocket watch was not Jul 10, 2021

Crushed by Antiques Roadshow - this Cartier pocket watch was not worth what she thought it was…

Antiques Roadshow is a source of a lot of fun for watch enthusiasts eagerly anticipating the appraisals of timepieces. Whether family heirlooms or watches bought while serving in the military, the people who bring their watches to be evaluated have their fingers crossed for high numbers – hoping they have hit the jackpot with their … ContinuedThe post Crushed by Antiques Roadshow – this Cartier pocket watch was not worth what she thought it was… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

No Surprise: First Green-Dial Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A-014 At Antiquorum’s July 2021 Auction In Monaco, Plus Other Highlights Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref 5711/1A-014 Jul 9, 2021

No Surprise: First Green-Dial Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A-014 At Antiquorum’s July 2021 Auction In Monaco, Plus Other Highlights

Antiquorum will be holding its next auction in Monaco on July 21, 2021, where collectors will have a chance to bid for the very first time on a Patek Philippe Reference 5711/1A-014. Yes, this is the brand-new stainless steel Nautilus with olive-green dial introduced in April 2021 as the model replacing the blue-dialed Reference 5711/1A-010. While that's noteworthy, there are a number of other lots worth looking at too.

Pandemic Buying: A Plethora Of Auction Watches Hammering For More Than A Million In 2020 And 2021 - And, Yes, Most Were By Patek Philippe Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Jul 6, 2021

Pandemic Buying: A Plethora Of Auction Watches Hammering For More Than A Million In 2020 And 2021 - And, Yes, Most Were By Patek Philippe

At watch auctions by Phillips, Christie’s, and Sotheby’s held in 2020, the first year of the pandemic, 22 timepieces hammered for more than one million Swiss francs. And to date in 2021, there have been (at least) 13 watches selling for more than one million Swiss francs. Elizabeth Doerr highlights the top auction results of the pandemic era so far, and, yes, Patek Philippe still reigns supreme.

Richard Mille launches preowned retail partnerships to help people buy with greater confidence Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Patek Philippe Rolex Jul 3, 2021

Richard Mille launches preowned retail partnerships to help people buy with greater confidence

For brands like Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, Rolex and Richard Mille it is crucial to understand the best means of acquiring these pieces preowned. Unless you’re a VIP customer, these highly sought-after brands don’t tend to be readily available to buy right away (if ever). Despite this, grey market dealers seem to have cases full … ContinuedThe post Richard Mille launches preowned retail partnerships to help people buy with greater confidence appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Fratello × Czapek Antarctique Passage de Drake Viridian Green Limited Edition Time+Tide
Czapek Antarctique Passage de Drake Jul 2, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Fratello × Czapek Antarctique Passage de Drake Viridian Green Limited Edition

Fratello knocked it out of the park in their last collaboration outing with Oris to create a bronze/burgundy Big Crown that nailed all the details with aplomb. Now our friends in the Netherlands have brought their keen eye for aesthetics to another end of the pricing spectrum, teaming up with a high-end independent watch manufacturer … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Fratello × Czapek Antarctique Passage de Drake Viridian Green Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Auctions: Only Watch 2021 - November 6, Geneva SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref 15202 Jul 1, 2021

Auctions: Only Watch 2021 - November 6, Geneva

A biennial charity watch auction that raises money for medical research, Only Watch has just announced the 2021 event takes place in Geneva on November 6, along with most of the 53 unique timepieces that will go under the hammer. Attended by the great and the good of Swiss watchmaking, Only Watch auctions have long enjoyed the support of leading watchmakers who exercise their best efforts to create one-off timepieces that are sold to support research into a cure for Duchenne muscular dystrophy. Only Watch was founded by Luc Pettavino, whose late son Paul was stricken by the illness. Mr Pettavino’s unfailing dedication to both Only Watch and his son’s memory has raised over €70 million to date. Luc Pettavino at Only Watch 2019 Many of the unique timepieces created for the event are landmarks in themselves, explaining why Only Watch has traditionally been a venue for record-setting prices, most notably the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A in steel that sold for CHF31 million in 2019. Highlights this year include a Tudor Black Bay GMT in an aged-gunmetal finish, possibly the very last Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref. 15202 (a model that will be discontinued at year’s end), and the imaginative F.P. Journe “Francis Ford Coppola”. And what will likely be the most valuable lot in the auction is not a wristwatch, but instead the Patek Philippe desk clock ref. 27001M-001 inspired by a timekeeper made for automobile tycoon James Ward Packard in 1923. We will c...

The new Zenith Chronomaster Original tastefully brings the beloved A386 up to speed Time+Tide
Zenith Chronomaster Original tastefully brings Jun 29, 2021

The new Zenith Chronomaster Original tastefully brings the beloved A386 up to speed

This year, Zenith introduced the Chronomaster Sport, a killer 41mm chronograph that presented buyers with a more technically intriguing alternative to the popular Rolex Daytona. It has since proved a hit success at retail, with initial allocations immediately snagged by buyers worldwide. But Zenith purists have been itching for a bit more of a nostalgia-driven … ContinuedThe post The new Zenith Chronomaster Original tastefully brings the beloved A386 up to speed appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm Time+Tide
Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 Jun 15, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm

Divers are among the most popular watches on the market, if not the most popular, due to their highly robust builds and familiar aesthetic. As a result, the segment is highly competitive and brands now have to find fresh ways to draw interest to their references. Fully aware of this trend, Oris has really begun … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The DWISS M3 is designed for the people, by the people Time+Tide
DWISS May 30, 2021

The DWISS M3 is designed for the people, by the people

Buying a watch is rarely something that you do on a random whim. Much like buying a car, it tends to be an extremely considered purchase where you research and agonise over every last detail. In addition, watch collectors also tend to have highly informed (and vocal) opinions over most aspects of a timepiece from … ContinuedThe post The DWISS M3 is designed for the people, by the people appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watchmaker Of Historical Significance: Romain Gauthier - Reprise Quill & Pad
May 12, 2021

Watchmaker Of Historical Significance: Romain Gauthier - Reprise

Throughout history, hundreds of talented watchmakers have left their mark on the science and industry of timekeeping. For the inaugural edition of WOHS (Watchmakers of Historical Significance), Joshua Munchow highlights an engineer that has used technology to push forward since his beginnings, creating a company that is not only a leading brand among independents, but also a supplier to many established brands: the incredible yet humble Romain Gauthier.

The Return Of The Dress Watch! Back From The Brink With 5 New Watches From Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Chopard, And Montblanc Quill & Pad
Vacheron Constantin Chopard May 10, 2021

The Return Of The Dress Watch! Back From The Brink With 5 New Watches From Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Chopard, And Montblanc

“Dress watches” were initially just “watches.” While their popularity may have dwindled over the years as more casual and sporty watches have taken off, many brands have stayed faithful to the concept of the dress watch as Martin Green highlights here with five beautiful new examples.

Under the hammer: 5 timepieces to keep an eye on at the Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: XIII Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Rolex Richard Mille Cartier May 6, 2021

Under the hammer: 5 timepieces to keep an eye on at the Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: XIII

The Phillips Geneva Watch Auction XIII takes place in Switzerland this weekend with 236 stellar lots for bidders and enthusiasts to get excited about. Of course, you have some head-turning pieces from the usual suspects – Patek Philippe, Rolex, Richard Mille, Cartier and more. But after combing through the auction catalogue, I wanted to highlight … ContinuedThe post Under the hammer: 5 timepieces to keep an eye on at the Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: XIII appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko Nature Of Time: 4 Watches For 24 Seasons Quill & Pad
Grand Seiko Nature Apr 23, 2021

Grand Seiko Nature Of Time: 4 Watches For 24 Seasons

The Grand Seiko Nature of Time is a collection of four watches celebrating the Japanese system of dividing the year into 24 small seasons called sekki. Two of the watches have stainless steel cases and are powered by a mechanical high-beat caliber, while the other two are housed in titanium and run on Spring Drive Caliber 9R65. And let's have a look at those 'seasoned' dials!

Sinn Introduces the U50 S Mother-of-Pearl S SJX Watches
Sinn Introduces Apr 18, 2021

Sinn Introduces the U50 S Mother-of-Pearl S

Typically known for making utilitarian, military-inspired watches, Sinn breaks away from its trademark aesthetic with the U50 S Mother-of-Pearl S, adding a touch of luxe to the smaller sibling of its best-selling U1 dive watch. Initial thoughts Billed as a unisex version of the U1, the U50 has a 41 mm diameter. Though not a small watch in itself, it is substantially smaller than the full-sized, 44 mm U1. With the U50 S Mother-of-Pearl S, it is clear that Sinn is trying to appeal to female buyers – a segment that the brand, with its usually large “tool” watches must have had difficulty wooing. I find the unusual combination of the blacked-out case and mother-of-pearl dial to work well. The all-black aesthetic is stealthy, the very sort of look right at home on a no-nonsense tool watch. In contrast, the mother-of-pearl dial is striking, with an iridescence is highly attractive and appealing to females looking for sports watch that has a little bit more sparkle. The paradoxical combination gives the new U50 an intriguing look, which I must confess to liking this much more than the regular U50 S. Starting at €2,750 on a rubber strap, the U50 S Mother-of-Pearl S is just a tad pricier than the regular U50 S. Given that it is also limited to just 500 pieces, it’s good value for those looking for a more stylish Sinn dive watch. Pretty but robust Despite the shimmering mother-of-pearl dial, the U50 S Mother-of-Pearl S remains robustly built, as most Sinn watches are....