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3,932 articles · 258 videos found · page 117 of 140

WATCH CONFESSIONS: “My watch buying has got out of control – I must’ve spent $2 million” Time+Tide
Oris ed dealers Apr 7, 2022

WATCH CONFESSIONS: “My watch buying has got out of control – I must’ve spent $2 million”

EDITOR’S NOTE: Grim pragmatism ensures the watch world is not big on public candour. Retailers are totally dependent on the watch brands to secure the most lucrative stock. Buyers are dependent on the whims of their authorised dealers in order to buy in-demand models. The watch media meanwhile is still largely dependent on advertising dollars, so … ContinuedThe post WATCH CONFESSIONS: “My watch buying has got out of control – I must’ve spent $2 million” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 03-94 Multimeter SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Introduces Apr 2, 2022

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 03-94 Multimeter

Bell & Ross is back with another square instrument watch in black ceramic, but this time taking a sharp turn away from its traditional emphasis on no-nonsense, military-inspired style. Instantly different from the typical B&R; offering, the BR 03-94 Multimeter prioritises colours and shapes, sacrificing the legibility in favour of style – which is not actually a bad thing. Initial thoughts The BR 03-94 Multimeter is ostensibly an instrument. The multi-scale dial can measure heart rate, respirations, or speed of travel for three forms of locomotion. But that’s how it works in theory. It’s filled with an overload of colours, letters, and numbers, providing the wearer with five different scales to go with the chronograph, including three types of tachymetric scales, one each for running, biking, and driving. Admittedly all that is more for aesthetic effect that practical usage. The dial isn’t the easiest to read, especially when driving or biking, but it certainly looks cool. It’s strikingly different from the usual military-inspired look of B&R;, which can be monotonous. Multi-scale The various scales on the dial are highlighted in different colours – orange, bottle green, white, pale green and forest green. And each scale is accompanied by its own base and unit indicator, so the wearer can use the watch as a measuring device when the scale is read in tandem with the running chronograph seconds hand. While the look is poles apart from the fighter jet instrument o...

Rolex Introduces the GMT-Master II “Left Handed” Ref. 126720VTNR SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces Mar 31, 2022

Rolex Introduces the GMT-Master II “Left Handed” Ref. 126720VTNR

One of the biggest surprises from Rolex at Watches & Wonders 2022 is the GMT-Master II ref. 126720VTNR – the first contemporary, regular-production Rolex with a left-handed or “destro” crown. And just to make it even more different, it is equipped with the brand’s first-ever green-and-black bezel. Initial thoughts A brand that has preserved the signature style of watches for decades, Rolex is all about incremental improvements that are often evident only in the details. That’s exactly the case with the new GMT-Master II, which retains the trademark GMT aesthetic but is rather different. In fact, it is very different, which makes it polarising – you either like it or you don’t. Initially the left-handed crown does look awkward on the left wrist; it feels off somehow. But very quickly you get used to it and it is surprisingly cool. The new ref. 126710VTNR is priced about US$550 more than its counterparts with a conventionally located crown. According to Rolex, the price difference does not result from the rejigged crown position but rather the changes to the testing equipment necessary to accommodate the new crown position. Destro Most obvious is the crown at nine o’clock, which is accompanied by a repositioned date window. It is ostensibly for the left-handed, but will surely find fans amongst right-handers who want something unusual. It is intriguing, just because it’s so different from the rest of the brand’s offering (though Rolex’s sister compan...

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Odysseus Titanium SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Mar 30, 2022

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Odysseus Titanium

Debuted three years ago, the Odysseus is still a one-model collection with the Datomatic, though versions in different metals are steadily added to the family. And the latest is the most intriguing to date, because the Odysseus is entirely clad in titanium, marking a first for the German watchmaker. Initial thoughts The expansion rate of the Odysseus collection is surprisingly slow given most of its peers have quickly added complicated models such as a chronograph rather soon. But thankfully the Odysseus titanium is an interesting addition, despite being simply the result of a change in the material. It is indeed the material that distinguishes the latest, not just from its counterparts but also from the competitors. A natural choice for sports watches, titanium is nevertheless uncommon amongst luxury sports watches, especially when combined with Lange’s peerless finishing. And Lange certainly knows it’s special, because it is the first limited-edition Odysseus, ever. It’s also the priciest, costing about 40% more than the white gold model, which is exorbitant to say the least – and slightly opportunistic – but demand will doubtlessly outstrip supply. Titanium and more While the use of titanium is intruiguing, that alone is certainly not enough to make for a compelling Odysseus, just because Lange has set a high bar for watchmaking. And it doesn’t disappoint. On top of being end-to-end titanium, the finishing on the case and bracelet is also entirely different....

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph “Salmon” SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Mar 30, 2022

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph “Salmon”

Vacheron Constantin opens its doors at Watches & Wonders 2022 with diversity of timepieces ranging from the sporty to artisanal, but its most classical offering is the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in a fashionable “salmon”. With the model having been launched over a decade ago and then gently upgraded in 2016, the new version is merely a facelift. But still it’s noteworthy for combining a platinum case with a “salmon” dial, both currently desirable attributes, which should help make this a strong seller (which also explains why it will only be available at boutiques). Initial thoughts The highlight of the new Traditionnelle is the dial – the only element that’s different compared to the original launched six years ago. Though less intriguing because it’s popular and common today, the new dial is nevertheless a good move that gives the model a new lease of life. While the rest of the watch apart from the dial isn’t new, it does have several features that make it stand out, most obviously the large, 43 mm case with a flat, wide bezel, a bold look for a relatively classical watch. While the large diameter does improve the legibility of the complex dial, it will not appeal to traditionalists who favour smaller cases. But the movement will certainly appeal to traditionalists. The cal. 1142 QP, which is based on the Lemania 2310, was long the movement of choice in a variety of old-school classics such as the Patek Philippe ref. 5970. Vacheron ...

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Richard Lange Minute Repeater SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Mar 30, 2022

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Richard Lange Minute Repeater

A. Lange & Söhne first unveiled their first minute repeater in 2013, in the form of the Grand Complication. It took two more years for the unveiling of a simpler – yet still complex – model in the form of the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater. Finally, seven years later, Lange unveils the Richard Lange Minute Repeater – a no-frills, classical three-hander with the coveted chiming feature. Initial Impressions Surprisingly slim and impressive in terms of acoustics, the Richard Lange Minute Repeater feels like a conservative release from the brand, but one that is much needed in the brand’s lineup – especially for those looking for a classically-styled minute repeater compared to the Zeitwerk. At first glance, it feels like an odd watch relative to the rest of Lange’s catalogue – we’ve taken for granted that Lange usually designs movement that are distinctively unique, especially for complications. In fact, the minute repeater mechanism and overall layout feel like a traditional Swiss calibre, albeit one with a German aesthetic. This can be forgiven as there’s only so many ways to design a minute repeater in a classic three-hander. And the brand still innovates – the repeater has practical high-end features compared to most of its peers, such as safety mechanisms and eliminating the pauses between the hour and minute strike. But arguably the best quality of the watch is its tactile feel. It feels and sounds good on the wrist – the case is unusually thin for a La...

INTRODUCING: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time collection is upgraded with a COSC-certified GMT calibre Time+Tide
Longines Spirit Zulu Time collection Mar 23, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time collection is upgraded with a COSC-certified GMT calibre

The Longines Spirit collection was one of the most instantly successful new watch releases from a big brand in years, with not a single detail out of place. It’s almost as if Longines read the collective consciousness of the world’s watch fanatics and crafted the perfect pilot-style watch, with just the right amount of vintage … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time collection is upgraded with a COSC-certified GMT calibre appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Omega Introduces the Aqua Terra in Bright Colours SJX Watches
Omega Introduces Mar 18, 2022

Omega Introduces the Aqua Terra in Bright Colours

Of Omega’s novelties for the year (which include a 6000 m dive watch and solid-gold Speedmaster Moonwatch) the Seamaster Aqua Terra is the most affordable while also offering the widest range in terms of style and size. The brand has just taken the covers off the latest Aqua Terra range made up of ten watches evenly divided into 34 mm and 38 mm cases, but all in vibrant, upbeat colours. The 34 mm model with a Lagoon Green dial Initial thoughts In terms of intrinsic appeal, the latest Aqua Terras are a wonderful addition to the line up. They show that Omega has begun to loosen up in terms of dial colours and style, which will no doubt help widen its audience. Another point of appeal is the dial finish. While the colours are bright, they aren’t in-your-face thanks to a brushed finish. And the 34 mm model also sports more rounded forms for the hands and hour markers that give it a more elegant feel. Overall, it makes for a versatile watch that’s not too sporty. And it’s also good news Omega has done away with the linear motif inspired by the wood decks of a sailboat that was long synonymous with the Aqua Terra. The 34 mm quintet That said, the collection immediately call to mind the Oyster Perpetual from 2020 that was an instant hit thanks to its range of colourful, lacquered dials. That leaves the new Aqua Terra feeling like a trend follower rather than trendsetter. Only time will tell whether this approach is conducive to the positioning of the brand. (To be fair,...

Why the revamp of the Omega Speedmaster ’57 collection is an evolution in all the right ways Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster ’57 collection Mar 10, 2022

Why the revamp of the Omega Speedmaster ’57 collection is an evolution in all the right ways

I’ve always had a crush on the dual register Omega Speedmaster ’57 collection. The design felt modern and sleek while I also appreciated the date complication that was added. Furthermore, Omega still managed to fit a 12-hour counter on the watch. It truly was a match made in heaven until I got to the specifications. … ContinuedThe post Why the revamp of the Omega Speedmaster ’57 collection is an evolution in all the right ways appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Yosuke Sekiguchi Debuts with the Primevère Wristwatch SJX Watches
Mar 6, 2022

Yosuke Sekiguchi Debuts with the Primevère Wristwatch

The latest watchmaker to strike out on his own as a one-man operation is Yosuke Sekiguchi, a Japanese watchmaker who has spent his entire career in Switzerland. Based in Le Locle, Mr Sekiguchi spent several years at well-known complications specialists before starting on his namesake brand. His debut watch is the Primevère, a wristwatch that is uncompromising in its adherence to tradition, both in style and substance. Powered by a finely finished movement, the Primevère was inspired by the 19th century “Le Locle” style ebauche that LeCoultre supplied to several brands, most notably Jules Jurgensen. In fact, Mr Sekiguchi modelled the Primevère on an 1871 Jurgensen pocket watch that he restored and then re-cased into a wristwatch. Initial thoughts Mr Sekiguchi is one of several Japanese watchmakers working in Switzerland. Like a few of his compatriots, Mr Sekiguchi’s background is in complications and restoration. His reverence for high-quality Vallee de Joux movements of the 19th century is equally obvious in the eminently traditional layout of the movement. Mr Sekiguchi has done such a good job of recreating the original that the movement is difficult to distinguish from a 19th century calibre in both aesthetics and finishing at a distance. But up close the Mr Sekiguchi’s movement reveals a higher level of finishing and decorative extras than a 19th century original, which were often robust and workmanlike – the very qualities that drew Mr Sekiguchi to the...

Time flies: The best travel watches from the last 12 months Time+Tide
Feb 27, 2022

Time flies: The best travel watches from the last 12 months

What’s travel, I hear you ask? Believe it or not, there’s an activity which means you can leave your home, and go somewhere else! Sadly, that’s an opportunity that many of us have been denied over the last couple of years due to Covid, but now the world is open again, it’s time to dust … ContinuedThe post Time flies: The best travel watches from the last 12 months appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Abraham-Louis Breguet Souscription Pocket Watch No. 1836, dated 1807: Touched (Perhaps) By The Hand Of The Horological God, I’m Jaded No Longer – Reprise Quill & Pad
Breguet Souscription Pocket Watch No Feb 20, 2022

Abraham-Louis Breguet Souscription Pocket Watch No. 1836, dated 1807: Touched (Perhaps) By The Hand Of The Horological God, I’m Jaded No Longer – Reprise

This Breguet souscription pocket watch number 1836 was created just after the French Revolution in 1796 and was sold in 1807 for £600. A testament to the quality of the movement’s design and the skill of its watchmaker, after more than 200 years it still runs impeccably today, which makes it the perfect role model for Breguet's modern Tradition line. But what relationship does Ian have to it?

WHO TO FOLLOW: The horologically centered art of @dianaevansillustration Time+Tide
Feb 18, 2022

WHO TO FOLLOW: The horologically centered art of @dianaevansillustration

Imagine flipping a switch and entering a cartoon world where you were the main character. Any limitations that you would normally place on yourself would disappear. One day you’d go skydiving while the next, you’d kayak the Nile. However, even in this fantasy world, your passions would still shine through (I would make sure my … ContinuedThe post WHO TO FOLLOW: The horologically centered art of @dianaevansillustration appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Exhibition: ‘A Journey through the Poetry of Time’ with Van Cleef & Arpels SJX Watches
Feb 11, 2022

Exhibition: ‘A Journey through the Poetry of Time’ with Van Cleef & Arpels

Parisian jeweller Van Cleef & Arpels (VC&A;) is staging an expansive exhibition of its high jewellery and complicated watches in Singapore. Executed in the brand’s signature whimsical style that evokes a stylised, romantic Paris, A Journey through the Poetry of Time opens on February 12 and is open to the public for a week, but registration is required for entry. Best known for its inventive, quirky mechanics and elaborate ornamentation, VC&A; has pulled out all the stops of the exhibition. The event encompasses most the brand’s most lavish creations, ranging from its charming complicated watches to incredible high-jewellery sets. One of the exhibition’s central themes is the brand’s most famous complication, the bi-retrograde display that is made up of two lovers on a bridge, the Pont des Amoureux. Another section of the exhibition is dedicated to the brand’s astronomical complications, which includes the Lady Arpels Planétarium, a compact, 38 mm wristwatch that captures the motion of Mercury, Venus, the Earth, and the Moon on its three-dimensional dial. Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux – an elegant, effortless combination of high jewellery and inventive watchmaking Lady Arpels Planétarium – the time is indicated with a shooting star that travels around the dial At the same time, VC&A; is also showcasing its haute horlogerie infused with modern technology. One of the exhibits is a line up of the entire Lady Arpels Zodiaque Lumineux collection, each of which...

Why I bought a vintage Seiko pocket watch Time+Tide
Seiko pocket watch Feb 8, 2022

Why I bought a vintage Seiko pocket watch

This 1974 Seiko pocket watch ref 6602-9010, stands apart from all my other timepieces. Today the convenience of a hands-free wristwatch has seen pocket watches mostly relegated to collectors, Victorian enthusiasts, Steampunk fans or people who want engraved presentation items. Pocket watches are still available new today, from low-end pieces to mid-range Seiko (eg SWPQ002 and … ContinuedThe post Why I bought a vintage Seiko pocket watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Mars Shinshu Japanese Whiskies: High-Altitude Fire And Ice – Reprise Quill & Pad
Feb 5, 2022

Mars Shinshu Japanese Whiskies: High-Altitude Fire And Ice – Reprise

Japanese whisky distillery Mars Shinshu is still working to establish its house style. "Searching for its soul,” distillery manager Koki Takehira calls it, and he is off to a wonderful start. At this stage, the whiskies appear to be from the elegant and complex end of the spectrum, and there is a gentle sweetness, more so than found in most Japanese whiskies. Ken Gargett takes us through the history of Mars Shinshu and shares tasting notes of a few of the whiskies.