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The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Devin Pennypacker Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph Jan 10, 2025

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Devin Pennypacker

Editor’s Note: We pause on reader submissions to the Three Watch Collection for $5,000 series temporarily this week to make room for Devin Pennypacker, Worn & Wound’s Media Manager. Devin is a watch industry veteran with a penchant for tool watches, but that doesn’t mean he won’t class the place up a little from time to time, as you’ll see in his three picks below.  When Zach Kazan throws down the “pick three for $5,000” challenge gauntlet, you take it up. As a watch enthusiast and collector who has never felt the need to round out a collection but rather trusts a gut instinct, I figured this would be a fun opportunity to boil down what I would look for given the hypothetical. For my picks, I tried to think about what type of watch I wore the most and what those picks said about me. Looking primarily at the manufacturer’s price, I struggled to come up with a variety that spoke to me within the pricing restraints, often wandering too far above the line. So, I will admit that one of these picks is a pre-owned option. With my shame out in the open but integrity intact, let’s take a look at the picks. TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph A bit of an odd pick heavily overshadowed by its titanium, and above this budget, sibling. Despite some contention, there can be no denying that the TAG Heuer Aquaracer collection is an iconic one. Instantly recognizable with a badge well known, the Aquaracer Professional can easily find itself serving as an adve...

Breguet Combines Engraving, Lacquer, and Guilloche for the New Year SJX Watches
Breguet Combines Engraving Lacquer Jan 10, 2025

Breguet Combines Engraving, Lacquer, and Guilloche for the New Year

To celebrate the Chinese Lunar New Year, Breguet has done something adventurous with its typically formal dress watch. Created to mark the upcoming Year of the Snake, the Classique 7145 “Snake” is still ultra-thin and time-only, but features a solid gold dial bearing a stylised serpent motif realised with a combination of guilloché and engraving, with translucent green lacquer for colour. Initial thoughts The new Classique has been masterfully reworked to give it an entirely different look that departs entirely from the traditional silvered engine-turning that is a Breguet signature. For fans of Breguet’s old-school aesthetic, this is probably too far from tradition, but for someone seeking something different, this might strike a chord. Aesthetics aside, the guilloché and engraving entail a higher level of craftsmanship than ordinary engine-turned dials. In fact, the snake dial is arguably more complex and refined in technique than the dial on last year’s Dragon edition. The dial complexity is reflected in the price of US$74,600, which is substantially more than the basic time-only Classique, but on par with prevailing retail prices for metiers d’art dials. Exquisite dial work The Classique “Snake” is all about the dial, which highlights the art of engraving, guilloche, and miniature painting. The engraving employs a bas-relief technique that gives the snake a sculptural form. The motif is first sketched and then sculpted by a skilled artisan using chisels...

TAG Heuer is Once Again the Official Timekeeper of Formula 1 SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Jan 6, 2025

TAG Heuer is Once Again the Official Timekeeper of Formula 1

On the back of the hefty, 10-year LVMH-Formula 1 sponsorship deal signed last year, TAG Heuer now returns as the official timekeeper of Formula 1, just in time for the sport’s 75th anniversary in 2025. This is a homecoming of sorts of TAG Heuer, which was official timekeeper for F1 for a decade from 1992. In fact, the brand’s roots in motorsports go back several decades - Heuer was the first luxury watch brand to display its logo on a Formula 1 car in 1969, and the first to sponsor a team in 1971 when it partnered with Scuderia Ferrari. And TAG Heuer famously signed Ayrton Senna as an ambassador in 1988, just before he became a champion driver. Jack Heuer (centre, in blue) at Ferrari in Maranello In fact, the brand name itself references F1: well before TAG Group acquired Heuer in 1985, the Saudi-owned group was already shareholder in McLaren and only sold its stake in the automaker and racing team last year. TAG Heuer’s return to F1 comes at an opportune time, with the sport having evolved into a global entertainment franchise under the ownership of Liberty Media. According to F1, it now boasts an audience of 750 million fans, many of whom are drawn into the sport by the hit Netflix series, and also an upcoming film starring Brad Pitt.  

Hot Take: The New And Improved CIGA Design Blue Planet II Fratello
Jan 4, 2025

Hot Take: The New And Improved CIGA Design Blue Planet II

The 2021 GPHG-winning CIGA Design Blue Planet is a unique take on time telling. Its domed dial with an engraved depiction of the earth tells time in a novel way. A good design firm rarely rests on its laurels, though, and the Blue Planet II brings subtle but positive changes. I remember the original CIGA […] Visit Hot Take: The New And Improved CIGA Design Blue Planet II to read the full article.

Blancpain Introduces Villeret Chinese Calendar “Year of the Snake” SJX Watches
Blancpain Introduces Villeret Chinese Calendar Dec 15, 2024

Blancpain Introduces Villeret Chinese Calendar “Year of the Snake”

To mark the Chinese New Year that begins on January 29, 2025, Blancpain has unveiled the Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar “Year of the Snake”. For the first time, the brand combines a platinum case with a green grand feu enamel dial on its wristwatch that has the unusual complication of a Chinese lunisolar calendar. As with previous editions, the Villeret Chinese Calendar displays the symbol of the Chinese Zodiac in a small aperture located at noon, in addition to featuring a snake motif engraved on its frosted white gold rotor. Initial thoughts The ability of a perpetual calendar to accurately track months, dates, and days for decades, mechanically and without any manual adjustments, remains impressive even as the complication has become common. Watches with a traditional Chinese calendar, however, remain rare and arguably more impressive. Only a handful of brands have incorporated the traditional Chinese calendar into a wristwatch, with Blancpain being one of the earliest to do so, way back in 2012 ( and more recently H. Moser & Cie. has done the same). Admittedly, the latest edition of the Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar introduces little new beyond the platinum case paired with a green enamel dial. Both the design and movement remain the same. While not intrinsically novel, the new version of the Traditional Chinese Calendar remains an interesting complication, with the new livery being appealing in itself. Year of the serpent The snake zodiac edition is...

Parmigiani’s Latest Minute Repeater is “Mysterious” with No Hands SJX Watches
Parmigiani Fleurier created Dec 10, 2024

Parmigiani’s Latest Minute Repeater is “Mysterious” with No Hands

To mark founder Michel Parmigiani’s 74th birthday, Parmigiani Fleurier created the L’Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse, a minute repeater without a tangible time indication on the face. Instead, the enamelled, guilloché dial on the front is purely decorative, with the repeater to tell the time on the wrist. But there is the time on the back of the watch thanks to a pair of discreet, peripheral hands. Initial thoughts Among the many complications, the minute repeater is one of my favourites. The beauty of a minute repeater lies in its acoustic time indication, which makes hands redundant in some ways. The L’Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse takes this concept to its logical conclusion in a gorgeously executed manner. The elaborate dial and case, however, result in the watch being very large, big enough that it loses some of the refinement and details present in a smaller case. Several notable artisans contributed to the watch, including Vanessa Lecci for the enamelling. The movement was supplied by Renaud & Papi, which is a fine, high-end movement but it’s a bit of a shame that Parmigiani didn’t utilise one of its in-house repeater calibres. A fascinating complication Like many historical Parmigiani models, the styling of the L’Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse is inspired by Ancient Greece. The fluted case middle is modelled on Doric columns, while the engine turning on the dial and the back are inspired by the Fibonacci sequence. It’s a large watch, w...

Ressence Introduces the Smaller, Simpler Type 9 SJX Watches
Ressence Introduces Dec 9, 2024

Ressence Introduces the Smaller, Simpler Type 9

Continuing the development of scaled-down versions of its signature wristwatch, Ressence unveils the Type 9. Characterised by a 39 mm titanium case – the smallest model in the brand’s current catalogue – the Type 9 is similar to the Type 8 in being a time-only displaying just hours and minutes, with no seconds. In a first for the brand, the minute scale has been repositioned from the dial to the fixed bezel that now sports a five-minute scale. Initial thoughts The Type 9 is a logical evolution of the brand’s entry-level model that retains the trademark “planetary” time display but in a smaller, simpler format. With a diameter of only 39 mm and short lugs, the Type 9 is more wearable. Though the Type 9 is the most affordable watch in the line-up, the new model does not compromise on aesthetics, maintaining the distinctive look and feel. Priced at CHF12,500, the Type 9 is CHF1,000 less expensive than the next-most-affordable model, the Type 8. For me, it is an ideal Ressence wristwatch that combines a perfect proportions with affordability. Arguably the only downside of the Type 9 is that it adds to the ever-growing catalogue of fairly similar models. The overlap between the Types 8 and 9 are obvious and possibly confusing. Perfect size In traditional Ressence style, the case of the Type 9 has no crown. Instead time-setting and manual winding of the movement is done by rotating the case back. Due to its construction, the case is only water resistant to 10 m, “s...

Up Close: Biver Automatique SJX Watches
Dec 6, 2024

Up Close: Biver Automatique

The second watch launched by Biver, the Automatique is a three-hand time-only, functionally simple but elaborately executed. Even the base model has a surprisingly complex dial, but the Automatique is really all about the JCB-003 movement, which is a micro-rotor calibre that ranks up there as one of most impressive recent self-winding movements. Established by Jean-Claude Biver and his son Pierre, Biver got its start with a far more complicated watch, but the Automatique is arguably more impressive because it’s a simple watch executed in a complicated yet cohesive manner. The JCB-003 Initial thoughts Yet another time-only watch with a dressed up movement and hefty price tag – the formula feels a little worn out now. So the Biver Automatique surprises on the upside. I like it. The design is appealing and cohesive, while the movement is impressive. In contrast, when Biver debuted with the Carillon Tourbillon minute repeater, I thought “the quality is unmistakeable, the aesthetics are lacking”. The Automatique lives up to the same levels of quality – and maybe even more – but it is instinctively appealing, even considering the price. The solid gold dial of the entry-level version in rose gold Even though Biver is not an artisanal independent brand in the conventional sense of the word since neither of its founders are watchmakers, the JCB-003 movement is executed to a standard that equals many artisanal independents. The construction is thoughtful and sophisticate...

Striking In Different Ways: Minute Repeaters From Jaeger-LeCoultre And Parmigiani Fleurier Plus A Banging Pink-Dialed Bremont Fratello
Parmigiani Fleurier Plus Dec 2, 2024

Striking In Different Ways: Minute Repeaters From Jaeger-LeCoultre And Parmigiani Fleurier Plus A Banging Pink-Dialed Bremont

Watches can be striking in different ways. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Hybris Mechanica Calibre 362 and the Parmigiani Fleurier L’Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse are striking watches that sound the time on demand. The Bremont Terra Nova 38 “Pink” is a field watch that steps out of its comfort zone with an unexpected, striking pink dial. You’ve seen […] Visit Striking In Different Ways: Minute Repeaters From Jaeger-LeCoultre And Parmigiani Fleurier Plus A Banging Pink-Dialed Bremont to read the full article.

Hands-On: Seiko's Best GMT Just Got More Colorful Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Nov 29, 2024

Hands-On: Seiko's Best GMT Just Got More Colorful

The Seiko SSK GMT line has slowly taken the watch world by storm, and Seiko took the SKX-style format this year and updated it with a trio of new dial formats. Earlier this year, I wrote a story on what – at the time – was every single existing SKX-style Seiko SSK GMT on the market, but that story is officially out of date. Before I get any further into this, it makes sense to establish a few things about these watches. First, they were released in 2022, creating a new wave of GMT affordability in the watch world. Why do I keep calling them SKX-style watches? Well, because the case profile is nearly identical to that of the now-discontinued icon, the Seiko SKX. The Seiko SSK001 and 003 models (the blue- and black-dial versions) are watches that I often suggest to anyone looking for a true "everyday" attainable watch. I even chose it in a video I did with Teddy where we both were tasked with building a collection under $7,000 ( let me know if you think I won). But enough lede-burying. Let’s get to the newness. In total there were three new variations released: The SSK033 with a blue and black bezel, the SSK035 with a green dial and bezel format, and the SSK036, which brings a black/brown aesthetic to the mix with a leather strap (the other two come on Jubilee-style bracelets). So let’s start with the SSK033. As an owner of the Rolex GMT-Master II with the blue-and-black bezel, I immediately zeroed in on this one. But where this clearly differs from the Rolex in term...

Czapek Unleashes a Purple Storm Worn & Wound
Czapek Unleashes Nov 27, 2024

Czapek Unleashes a Purple Storm

I feel like every time I look at Czapek, they’re doing something great. This time, they’ve released a new limited variant of the Antarctique, the Antarctique Purple Storm, with an otherworldly purple dial produced by Swiss dial maker Metalem. The Antarctique has been one of the great success stories of the indie watch world in recent years, and Czapek has managed to iterate on the watch beautifully, offering up a consistent stream of new and interesting executions on the model without losing any of what makes it so compelling. This latest release pairs a familiar steel execution of the independent brand’s signature integrated bracelet sports watch, with a new version of the hand-varnished dial first seen in the 10-piece limited edition Antarctique Orion Nebula. While that watch was meant to evoke very specifically the look of galactic bodies in astral photography, almost looking like it could have come straight from the Webb telescope, more recent implementations of the technique have had a more lava-lamp-like quality; ethereal and non-corporeal. The Purple Storm fits into the latter group presenting onlookers with colors ranging from dark blacks to vibrant purples and every shade in between. Each of the 18 dials in this series is completely unique, and the celestial-inspired dials are entirely sterile - though the Czapek logo is present, it looks to be printed on the underside of the sapphire crystal (an increasingly common, but nonetheless appealing technique). ...

Vacheron Constantin Presents Japanese Deities in Miniature Enamel SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Presents Japanese Deities Nov 19, 2024

Vacheron Constantin Presents Japanese Deities in Miniature Enamel

The year’s Vacheron Constantin (VC) Les Cabinotiers collection of unique timepieces explore the mythology of time across different cultures. A trio of unique pieces with miniature enamel dials, Les Cabinotiers Le Temps Divin Japanese Culture are time-only watches with exquisite dial art, each depicting a Japanese deity. The functional simplicity of the three watches contrast with their Les Cabinotiers Le Temps Divin counterparts equipped with tourbillon regulators. While the tourbillon-equipped models take inspiration from Greek fables and wider East Asian culture, the present pieces are specifically focused on Japanese themes. Each of the three watches is equipped with a one-of-a-kind dial crafted with enamelling and engraving by VC’s in-house artisans. Initial thoughts VC’s endeavour bringing forth elements of time-related mythology from different cultural perspectives is laudable – and also logical given their application on a wristwatch. Moreover, the concept is executed well both in terms of style and technique in the 2024 Les Cabinotiers line-up. Les Cabinotiers (and also Metiers d’Art) demonstrate VC’s mastery of artisanal decoration. The dials in the Japanese Culture trio are achieved with several techniques in tandem, namely engraving and enamelling, but done in-house. The artful combination of technique results in a very-appealing series of unique creations. In fact, these watches are decorated with techniques similar to the incredible Les Cabinotier...