Hodinkee
Happenings: First Ever British Watchmakers’ Day To Be Held In March
The inaugural event will be held at Lindley Hall in Westminster, London, with over 40 confirmed exhibitors.
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Hodinkee
Quill & Pad
5 Reasons Why You Should Consider Owning a Colorful Watch
Joshua Munchow explains why people are drawn to brightly colored watches. His personal opinion is that everyone should have at least one bright, colorful watch in their collection and he makes the case for why the excitement around the Tiffany Blue Nautilus is perfectly rational - because colorful watches are awesome!
Worn & Wound
Independent Watchmaker Sergey Chutov and His Fortress Collection
Not everyone has the courage to turn away from an established career, and take a risk on something that brings them joy. The watch industry is saturated with watches and watch brands focusing on every price point; from the powerhouses supported by the conglomerates they’re nestled under, to the independent and microbrands that have filled the market with innovation at a value cost, it can be hard for a new watchmaker to find their place. Sergey Chutov is an independent watchmaker that’s staking his claim, a fortress on a crowded battlefield, with pride, design, craft, and complex mechanics melting into the forge. Until 2018, Sergey worked as a civil judge in Moscow. While going about his days he often found that his mind would drift to his passions. “One day I noticed that my thoughts were more occupied with watches than with legal work,” he told me. Eventually, Sergey made the decision to change the course of his life, and set down the path to gathering more knowledge about watches. “I spent 4 years learning how to make watches and honing my skills before making my first model,” he said. That first model that Sergey is alluding to would be his Fortress I. There are currently five Fortress models that make up Sergey Chutov’s body of work. Each one with a similar DNA and evolving motif, with variations on movement, materials, and style. When I think of a “fortress” my mind goes to something cold and uninviting, but these watches, although arguably star...
Worn & Wound
Bulova Adds New References to their Surveyor Collection
When talking about value driven timepieces, it would be foolish to exclude Bulova from the conversation. From their Lunar series to their Precisionist line and their aptly nicknamed Devil divers, Bulova is one of the essential bang for your buck watch brands. Furthering their cause, they are launching 3 new colorways to their popular Surveyor collection, along with a special new gold-tone option. There will now be a striking pistachio (light green) version, with a quick release brown leather strap and a dark green version on matching quick-release 3-link stainless-steel bracelet. Both will have silver-tone dial furniture and hands, while a new burgundy edition will have rose gold-tone accents and crown. The latter will also be supplied on a matching 3-link bracelet. Along with these new stainless-steel models, as previously mentioned, there will be a fully gold-tone edition. This one will feature a stunning champagne dial, with cut-outs so that the wearer can admire the beating heart powering this timepiece. Not only are the watch and bracelet gold-tone, but the movement plates and rotor have been given the gold treatment as well. All these new pieces share the same 39mm case, featuring sculpted edges and faceting, along with a mix of polished and brushed finishing. Topping these watches is a flat sapphire crystal, adorned with a date magnifier and they will be powered by a Japanese (Miyota) 21-jewel automatic movement that boasts a 42-hour power reserve. These vibra...
Fratello
Breitling Goes Deep For Its Dark SuperOcean Automatic 44 UK Limited Edition
Hot off the heels of the stealthy Chronomat from February, Breitling brings another muted-tone beauty for March. The latest exclusive limited edition for the UK market is the SuperOcean Automatic 44. Like the aforementioned Chronomat, Breitling pairs this SuperOcean’s black dial with an anthracite hue. However, instead of chronograph counters, the SuperOcean features lacquered anthracite […] Visit Breitling Goes Deep For Its Dark SuperOcean Automatic 44 UK Limited Edition to read the full article.
Deployant
New: Louis Vuitton Voyager Flying Tourbillon Poinçoin de Genève Plique-à-jour
Introducing the Louis Vuitton Voyager Flying Tourbillon Poinçoin de Genève Pique-à-jour. A magnificent artistic addition to the arsenal of Louis Vuitton.
SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Introduces Tourbillon with Plique-à-Jour Enamel Dial
Making full use of its recently established enamel workshop, Louis Vuitton debuts the Voyager Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève Plique-à-Jour. Equipped with a skeleton tourbillon movement bearing the Geneva Seal, the new Voyager features a dial of translucent enamel in a gold lattice that is similar to stained glass. Initial thoughts The Voyager tourbillon was unveiled in its original format in 2016. I examined the watch at the time, and came away impressed by both the design and finishing, though I felt it was pricey. The case was elegantly proportioned and sat particularly well on the wrist, being just over 9 mm tall. And the movement was surprisingly airy while having a high level of decoration equivalent to that found in establishment haute horlogerie names. The plique-à-jour is essentially the same thing but with an enamel dial. The thickness of the dial adds to the case height, bringing it to over 11 mm, so the new tourbillon doesn’t have the slimness but it remains an elegant watch. The artisanal dial does add another level of appeal, particularly since this enamel technique is not often used in watches, particularly on the large surface of entire dial. Personally I would have preferred colours other than blue and grey for the enamel, but geometric, repeating “V” motif of the dial is attractive. As for the price, well, this is an expensive watch, though arguably not as much as in 2016.. Louis Vuitton has come a long way since as a watchmaker, with the br...
Hodinkee
Auctions: A Rare Vintage Heuer Carrera With Racing Provenance Up For Sale At Sotheby's
The vintage Carrera Sunray DX is one of perhaps a dozen given to racing team members in the '60s.
SJX Watches
Omega Introduces Speedmaster Moonwatch with a White Lacquer Dial
First seen on the wrist of actor Daniel Craig late last year, the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch with a “lacquered white dial” is now official. Dial aside, it’s identical to the standard Moonwatch with the cal. 3861. The new Speedmaster is regular production and priced almost exactly the same as the standard model. Initial thoughts The new Speedmaster is only a dial variant of the familiar Moonwatch in black. It isn’t substantively novel, though it is notable for being regular production. Historically, Speedmasters with white or silver dials have been either limited editions, like the Alaska Project, or in precious metal, like the model in Canopus gold. The watch itself, however, is executed well. The lacquered dial is slightly glossy and matched with black-coated hands and markers, with the red “Speedmaster” giving it colour. For only US$100 more than the regular model – which is iconic but also common – this is certainly a compelling alternative. White, red, and black The new Speedmaster features a dial with a lacquered finish that gives it a smooth, glossy surface. According to Omega, this is the first Moonwatch with a lacquered dial. Though the finish is different, the dial retains all of the details that characterise the Moonwatch dial, including the step on its perimeter and recessed registers with concentric graining. The hands and applied markers also retain the same classic design, but are finished with a black coating for legibility. Notably, the sta...
Worn & Wound
Omega’s White Dialed Speedmaster Professional is Here
In a move that could only be earth shattering, breaking news in the watch industry, one of the most renowned brands has released their most iconic product in a color with no hue. Yes, the Speedmaster Professional, the Moonwatch, can now be had not only with the traditional black dial, but a white version that is perhaps meant to feel a bit more luxe, given its finishing and the (lack of) options consumers will have with respect to the question of crystal, bracelet, and caseback. This release isn’t exactly a surprise to those who follow Omega closely, but it is, all things considered, a fairly dramatic shakeup to the Speedmaster collection. The unveiling of the white dialed Speedmaster is not a big shock or surprise to those who track, predict, or are otherwise interested in new releases from Omega. Daniel Craig, James Bond himself, was spotted wearing what turned out to be a prototype version of the white Speedmaster last year. The jokes about a spy not being able to keep a new watch secret practically write themselves. In any case, it didn’t take long for the collecting community to reach the conclusion that the Omega ambassador was wearing new version of the Speedy to be released at some point in the near future. And a white dial for the Speedy Pro would be fairly predictable even if it hadn’t been spotted on Craig’s wrist. Some of Omega’s most sought after limited edition Speedys have been white, particularly the Silver Snoopy from 2015, and the Alaska Project...
Hodinkee
Introducing: It's Finally Here: Omega Announces A White Dial Speedmaster In Steel – Oh, And It's A Lacquer Dial
We saw it last year on the wrist of Daniel Craig but after five months of waiting, we finally know what's up with that white Speedmaster.
Fratello
Fratello On Air: What Would Make You Buy A New Cartier?
Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air. This week, we’re asking what would make us buy a Cartier watch. It’s a good question because neither of your co-hosts owns a timepiece from the incredibly popular brand. As we’ll see, the reasons have little to do with what’s currently on offer and more to […] Visit Fratello On Air: What Would Make You Buy A New Cartier? to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Adds to their Dune Line with a C65 GMT
Known for their luxury design at an approachable price point, British watchmaker Christopher Ward has brought their signature style to a new watch, the C65 Dune GMT White Sand. Inspired by field watch designs of the 1960’s, the C65 Dune GMT mixes vintage design elements with a totally modern upgrade. For one, unlike most GMT’s on the market, this model has an interior 24-hour bezel adorned with numerals, maintaining its streamlined profile that’s more complementary of the Dune silhouette. Further to this, the use of a fourth “GMT hand” allows for the wearer to always have their eye on a second timezone, a function that’s key for any explorer looking to up their wrist game. In terms of design, the C65 Dune GMT White Sand opts for a subtle charm that can easily be worn – and read – in a variety of circumstances. For one, the charm of the 38mm stainless steel case against the ivory-colored dial means this watch can be dressed up as needed. But like any good field watch, one should get their money’s worth in a variety of circumstances, and the C65 Dune GMT is no different. The ultra-legible White Sand dial is accentuated by the applied twin-flags logo at 12 o’clock and a date window at 6. Both the hour markers and handset are deep-filled with Super-LumiNova® Light Old Radium BL Grade X1, giving readability at any day of day – or night. The C65 Dune GMT White Sand is powered by a self-winding Sellita SW330-2 GMT movement, with a power reserve of 56 hour...
Fratello
What Is Up With Radium On Watch Dials? How Dangerous Is It, Really?
If you have ever looked closely at vintage watches, you will have surely come across radium lume. You probably know it was the prevalent luminescent material until it was abandoned in favor of tritium around 1963. Most likely, you have heard about the dangers of this highly radioactive material. That raises a crucial question: is […] Visit What Is Up With Radium On Watch Dials? How Dangerous Is It, Really? to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Cyrus Klepsys Dice Saffron Double Chronograph: Colorful and More Useful than a Rattrapante Chrono
The concept behind the Klepsys Dice Saffron Double Chronograph is that in many sports, you like to compare times of competitors starting simultaneously. Martin Green explains how Cyrus solved that.
WatchAdvice
A LOOK BACK: Omega Speedmaster Professional Hands On Review
With the launch of the latest white dial Speedmaster around the corner, we’ve dug into our archives to bring back our review of the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch. Almost 5 years on, it still stands up well! Back in 2019, we reviewed the then-current Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. Since then, Omega has given the Speedy a bit of an upgrade with a new movement and a re-designed bracelet and clasp. However, not much else has changed, and with the imminent announcement of Omega’s new suspected White Dial or perhaps a white ceramic Speedmaster on Tuesday 5th March 2024, we thought we would dig into our archives and re-visit this review, and add a few comments within to be in line with the current model. Enjoy this blast from the past! A Bit Of History The Omega Speedmaster is one of Omega’s most iconic watches to date. It has a rich history with roots tied to space travel. Not many people may be aware but the speedmaster models that we have come to admire in this day and age weren’t originally thought of as a watch for space travel. When it was first released in 1957, it was portrayed as a sports and racing chronograph watch as Omega was the official timekeeper of the Olympic games. The classic design cues of the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Things changed, however, when NASA decided that it wanted to use the Omega Speedmaster for its manned missions into space, while also being included in the Apollo program. So how exactly did Omega’s Speedmaster go from be...
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Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
A Week in Watches Ep. 75: Can Watches be Funny?
On episode 75 of A Week in Watches, we look at a handful of new releases. Things are a bit quiet right now with British Watchmaker’s Day and the Watches and Wonders looking around the corner. That said, we’ve got some cool stuff to look at, from a very dark Minase to some globe-trotting Farers to a departure for Fears and a funny Frederique Constant. This episode of a Week in Watches is presented by the all-new Tissot pr516 mechanical chronograph – based on a beloved 1970s design; this thoroughly modern reinterpretation is powered by a Valjoux hand-wound movement all for under $2,000 dollars – click here to find out more. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 75: Can Watches be Funny? appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Deployant
Cars & Watches: 6 Watch and Car Tie up
Just last week, we covered “Spot the Watch: Automotive Journalists”, we decided to continue the automotive theme this week by covering more on watches that has tie up with car manufactures. The relationship with Car Manufacturers and Watch Maisons is what we always described as an on-going love story and one that would probably endRead More
Quill & Pad
Sylvain Pinaud Origine: How Do We Define A Beginning?
Origine by Sylvain Pinaud is an essentially simple watch telling only the time with three hands. The commitment to execution puts him on a level with some of the greats and is a good indicator that we will see a lot more from this burgeoning young brand.
Quill & Pad
My Top 5 Favorite Watches with Helical Hairsprings
Out of all the “traditional” styles of hairsprings, the helical hairspring is Joshua Munchow's favorite because it adds three-dimensionality to the watch. These oscillators are so rarely seen that if you are only aware of five watches with helical hairsprings you already know a significant portion of the modern watches using them. Here are Joshua's favorite five.
Deployant
New: Blancpain Quantième Perpétual green dial
Blancpain releases their perpetual calendar in a new green dial. Here is the new Quantième Perpétuel with the intense green dial in a red gold case.
Quill & Pad
6 Steel Sports Watches That are Both (Relatively) Affordable and Definitely Obtainable
Unless you have been residing under a large rock in recent years, you are most probably (and perhaps quite painfully) aware that the classic steel sports watches designed by Gérald Genta for Audemars Piguet (Royal Oak) and Patek Philippe (Nautilus) are both beyond the financial reach of most people and in many cases simply not available even if you can afford them. Here Colin Alexander Smith shares six more affordable and more available sports watches that have caught his eye over the last few years.
Teddy Baldassarre
Bulova Lunar Pilot Review
In early 2024, Bulova released a version of its vintage-inspired space-mission-worthy chronograph, the Lunar Pilot, with a dial that is indisputably unique and whose origins are literally out of this world. Here’s a closer look at the Bulova Lunar Pilot Chronograph Meteorite Dial Limited Edition. To start with some background on the model: Bulova Watch Company, founded in New York in 1875, played a noteworthy role during the height of the U.S.A.’s Space Race with the Soviet Union in the 1950s and ‘60s. The company, at the time headed by American war hero General Omar Bradley, established a partnership with NASA through which it provided precision instruments and timekeeping devices equipped with Bulova’s signature Accutron tuning-fork technology. These instruments were used by NASA astronauts on no less than 46 space missions, and a Bulova Accutron clock remains in the moon's Sea of Tranquility to this day, placed there by astronaut Buzz Aldrin in 1969 during the historic Apollo 11 moon landing. Two years later, Bulova made a customized, one-of-a-kind chronograph wristwatch for Colonel Dave Scott (above), commander of 1971’s Apollo 15 mission, the fourth to land on the moon. The watch, essentially the prototype for today's Lunar Pilot models, was specially engineered for lunar conditions, with a case built to withstand drastic changes in pressure, temperature, atmospheric conditions, and gravity. Scott, the seventh man to walk on the moon and the first to driv...
Quill & Pad
New Release: MB&F; LM Perpetual EVO Blue
In 2015 with the launch of LM Perpetual. Irish watchmaker and movement designer extraordinaire Stephen McDonnell reinvented the previously breakage-prone perpetual calendar complication and LM Perpetual transformed MB&F; from a serious design-led boutique brand into a very serious horological brand. Now MB&F; has introduced LM Perpetual EVO BLUE, in titanium with light blue dial plate.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour Opera Automata
Louis Vuitton has received much press recently for the Tambour, a restrained, sleek watch with just three hands. But the brand also makes watches at the other end of the spectrum, as personified by the Tambour Opera Automata. A large watch with an even larger presence, the Opera Automata is an extremely complicated watch with a kinetic dial – that is also enamelled by Anita Porchet. The pusher at two o’clock activates the automata on the dial, which also serves to indicate the time with jumping hours and retrograde minutes. Although mechanically identical to the earlier Carpe Diem automata watch, the Opera Automata is more striking thanks to its vivid colours, and also more relatable for East Asians given the theme. Initial thoughts The Tambour Opera Automata is a statement watch that is hard to miss by virtue of its size and colour. Although the extravagant style is typical of Louis Vuitton, the details of the enamel dial are particularly fine. Moreover, the motif is more appealing to me personally compared to its predecessor, the Carpe Diem from three years ago. I was impressed by the Carpe Diem, both for its complexity and execution, particularly the delicate enamelled snake, but the skull-and-snake motif was too much for me. It was also less relatable, since it is a vanitas, a familiar concept in Western culture. With a Chinese opera motif, the Opera Automata, on the other hand, is more relatable. The Opera Automata is impressively decorated on the front – unsurp...
Worn & Wound
Perpetually Yours: A Leap Day Guide to our Favorite QPs
Once again, Leap Day is upon us. This is an important day for watch lovers, particularly those of us who admire complicated watches, as it gives those lucky enough to own a perpetual calendar an opportunity to observe them doing the thing they’re meant to do. Unlike the vast majority of watches with any kind of calendar complication, a perpetual calendar has already identified 2024 as a leap year, and will summarily display the first day of March without the need to advance the date. This, of course, is quite a mechanical feat, and one that only comes every four years, so it’s absolutely worth celebrating an event that is as rare as the Summer Olympics, a United States presidential election, and a new Bad Boys movie, all of which, for better or worse, we’re getting this year. This Leap Day, we celebrate the perpetual calendar by selecting a few of our absolute favorites. Our selections below represent many different approaches to the perpetual, from rigorously simple to intentionally complex, formal to sporty, and many places in between. The perpetual calendar might not be the most accessible of complications, but we can still appreciate them, particularly when they’re having their big, quadrennial moment. Zach Weiss I feel very strongly about perpetual calendars. I fawn over them. I look them up late at night when I can’t sleep and drool about the possibilities of knowing not just the day, or the date, or the month, or the phase of the moon, but knowing al...
Monochrome
Just Because – It’s February 29th… What Exactly is a Leap Year? And What Does it Mean for Watches?
If you’re one of the lucky few to own a perpetual calendar watch (or even rarer, a secular calendar watch), this is the day you have to wear this watch. It’s not even an option, it’s an order. Why? Because your movement is going to perform a mechanical ballet that only occurs every four years […]
![[VIDEO] Our 2024 New Release Season Predictions](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2024/02/Fears-Redcliff-10.jpg)
Worn & Wound
[VIDEO] Our 2024 New Release Season Predictions
New release season in the watch industry is really heating up, so we thought we’d get a sense of what our team is expecting as we head into Watches & Wonders, and a spring that’s sure to be filled with high profile new watches from brands of all sizes. Maybe it’s a bit of wishcasting, but Zach Weiss and Zach Kazan have similar ideas around the industry getting weird, or at least moving away from some of the predictably crowd pleasing watches we’ve seen dominate the space over the last several years. An entire generation of collectors is maturing, and it follows that they’ll be looking for new watches outside what we’d consider the run of the mill. Is this the year brands respond with accessible craft, new complications, and raw creativity? We hope so! Are stone dials coming back? This onyx dial from Fears and Collective just dropped last week. Meanwhile, Kyle Snarr is convinced that this is the year of the pink watch. He might be onto something – we’ve already seen a high profile pink dial from Grand Seiko, and we swear this was shot before that release was made known to us. We’ll also be tracking Nina Flanders’s prediction that brands will turn to uncommon materials to garner attention in 2024. Recent releases from Girard-Perregaux and Fears would seem to indicate she might be on the right track. We want to know what you think: let us know in the comments what you’re expecting brands to headline with as new release season gains steam. The post ...
Fratello
#TBT An Exciting Dial-Originality Investigation With A Gallet Navigator Telemeter
Until recently, I had never changed my opinion about the originality of a watch three times in the same week. But that happened when the intriguing Gallet Navigator Telemeter crossed my path. Two other great collectors joined me on my journey of exploration, and they were equally puzzled. The buying experience of this rare Gallet […] Visit #TBT An Exciting Dial-Originality Investigation With A Gallet Navigator Telemeter to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Business News: Phillips Perpetual Opens in Hong Kong
Five years since opening its first concept store in London, Phillips has now officially launched Phillips Perpetual in Hong Kong. Conceived as a conduit for collectors to buy and sell watches between the biannual auction seasons, Perpetual is located in Pedder Building, a 1920s Beaux-Arts style located in the Central business district. Established in 2019 with a showroom in London and led by James Marks, Perpetual is the private-sale arm of the auction house that allows clients to buy and sell anytime, instead of during the traditional May and November auctions. Perpetual operates physical stores in London and Hong Kong, along with a seasonal pop-up in Gstaad, as well as its e-commerce platform. The Hong Kong outpost strengthens its foothold in Asia, home to many of Phillips’ important clients. Something for everyone As with its London store, the Hong Kong boutique’s offerings will continually evolve. At opening, however, Perpetual in Hong Kong showcases diversity in terms of brands, complications, and styles. The flagship offering is a Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300G-010, the brand’s most complicated wristwatch boasting a grande and petite sonnerie, alarm, date repeater, second time zone, and an instantaneous perpetual calendar. Another highlight is the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon “Homage to F.A. Lange” in Honey Gold launched in 2010 to mark the 165th birthday of its founder. Setting it apart from the earlier Lange 1 Tourbillon is a larger a...