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Ulysse Nardin’s Blast Free Wheel Dressed in German Silver SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin s Blast Free Wheel Jul 16, 2025

Ulysse Nardin’s Blast Free Wheel Dressed in German Silver

Ulysse Nardin presents a surprisingly striking new version of its most forward-thinking tourbillon, the Blast Free Wheel Maillechort. An interesting blend of classic finishing and bold, three-dimensional architecture, the limited edition piece is unlike the generally future-forward aesthetic pushed by Ulysse Nardin in recent years. The latest Blast Free Wheel retains the novel movement construction with elevated moving parts and a constant force mechanism integrated inside the tourbillon, but now set against a traditional, grained plate in maillechort, or German silver. Initial thoughts The Free Wheel is a long established collection, having been rolled out in several case styles over time, but this new incarnation is arguably the best one yet. The Le Locle-based brand is known for its overall loud designs and its tendency to push a very modernist look, so the old-school approach with maillechort is unexpected but appealing. The Blast Free Wheel still retains a somewhat loud case design, but the modernism here is more restrained and the futuristic movement is toned down by its finishing. As the name suggests, the main point is maillechort, a brass alloy better known as German silver. Long employed in historical watches, the material is usually associated with classic timepieces from the likes of A. Lange & Söhne or artisanal watchmakers, but here it compliments the avant-garde movement well. The soft silver-grey hue of the German silver serves as an excellent backdrop for...

Fratello EDC: Lex Shares His Everyday Carry Essentials From Mismo, Ray-Ban, And Bergeon Fratello
Jul 16, 2025

Fratello EDC: Lex Shares His Everyday Carry Essentials From Mismo, Ray-Ban, And Bergeon

Back by dope demand, Fratello EDC is here again for the first time since 2022! In this series, the Fratello team members let you take a peek into their bags and share their Everyday Carry (EDC) items. Lex will kick things off by sharing his daily essentials. What does he carry with him, and does […] Visit Fratello EDC: Lex Shares His Everyday Carry Essentials From Mismo, Ray-Ban, And Bergeon to read the full article.

Hands-On With Funky New Tusenö Supervintage Collection Fratello
Jul 15, 2025

Hands-On With Funky New Tusenö Supervintage Collection

If we mention the name Tusenö, most of you will immediately think of the popular Shellback diver. The Swedish brand has released a small selection of models in the past few years, but the Shellback has made waves as one of the best affordable dive watches on the market. Now, the young Gothenburg-based brand surprises […] Visit Hands-On With Funky New Tusenö Supervintage Collection to read the full article.

Remembering a Significant A. Lange & Söhne Tourbillon Pour le Mérite SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 2499 Jul 14, 2025

Remembering a Significant A. Lange & Söhne Tourbillon Pour le Mérite

I don’t often read spiels from watch sellers, though there are exceptions like Langepedia, a specialist in the German brand that I have long been a fan of. Alp Sever, the gentleman behind Langepedia, recently published a story that caught my eye. It was an ode to a watch already sold, but an important one worth commemorating, the Tourbillon Pour le Mérite ref. 701.008, a unique piece in white gold with silver sub-dials. Mr Sever’s story got my attention because I remember the watch. It first emerged publicly just over a decade ago at Christie’s, where it had been consigned by presumably the original owner (who was presumably someone connected with the brand’s corporate parent in the 1990s). I admired the watch in person during a preview exhibition, but back then it was as far out of my budget as the Lange 31’s mainspring is long. The unique dial has a concise, crisp aesthetic that is almost monochromatic and accentuated by the lozenge-shaped markers also found on the pink gold variant. Intriguing, another unique Pour le Mérite exists with a similar all-black dial, but with a smaller, 36 mm case. This “panda” iteration is more appealing, however, as is its conventional, 38.5 mm case. The unique Tourbillon Pour le Mérite sold for CHF437,000 at Christie’s Geneva in May 2014 – extraordinary at the time. In the same auction, a third-series Patek Philippe ref. 2499 in yellow gold sold for less. The Tourbillon Pour le Mérite was enjoying a little bit of a bo...

Introducing: A New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Limited Edition - Let’s Call This Nautical Chrono “Seafarer II” Fratello
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Limited Edition Jul 14, 2025

Introducing: A New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Limited Edition - Let’s Call This Nautical Chrono “Seafarer II”

The colorful 1950s are back in the shape of the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Limited Edition “Seafarer II.” With its deep blue dial, fresh turquoise accents on the minute counter, and lively yellow touches, it refreshingly presents itself with an unmistakable nautical touch. This novelty harks back to a 1950s Heuer chronograph, the Seafarer tide-indication […] Visit Introducing: A New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Limited Edition - Let’s Call This Nautical Chrono “Seafarer II” to read the full article.

Hands On: Piaget Andy Warhol SJX Watches
Piaget Andy Warhol Having first Jul 14, 2025

Hands On: Piaget Andy Warhol

Having first introduced its Beta 21-inspired wristwatch over a decade ago, Piaget rebooted the concept this year by renaming it the Piaget Andy Warhol thanks to a freshly inked agreement with the American artist’s foundation. The watch retains the same oversized style format defined by a many stepped bezel and clean dial, but now adds the option of customisation in both dial and case materials. Though pricey for a time only watch, the Andy Warhol is arguably Piaget’s best formal dress watch for men. It’s just as elegant as the brand’s round watches, but substantially more distinctive. And the Andy Warhol nickname makes it more memorable than it was before. Initial thoughts Piaget’s most significant recent watch in technical terms is unquestionable the Altiplano Ultimate Concept, but ironically it is somewhat too thin to be elegant. The wafer-slim case feels a little strange on the wrist. The Andy Warhol, on the other hand, is large, but elegant and especially glamorous in certain variations like the malachite dial. In fact, the case is oversized – the case is 45 mm wide – but very thin around 8 mm, giving it a sleek profile but large presence on the wrist. And up close the multiple steps on the bezel give the design surprising flair given its overall simplicity. The large cushion form easily passes for a 1970s watch, but this is not an exact remake. Instead it is loosely based on the Piaget Beta 21, a pioneering quartz wristwatch, a specimen of which was owne...

Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: RJ’s Choices From Rolex, Omega, Grand Seiko, And G-Shock Fratello
Grand Seiko Jul 14, 2025

Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: RJ’s Choices From Rolex, Omega, Grand Seiko, And G-Shock

Yes, I know this series is supposed to be about watches for summer, but is there such a thing as a typical summer watch? I think I’ll go against the grain and refer to my picks as “holiday watches” instead, as preparing for a vacation is when I carefully select the watch (or watches) I […] Visit Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: RJ’s Choices From Rolex, Omega, Grand Seiko, And G-Shock to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tissot PRX Quartz Vs. Tissot PRC 100 Solar Quartz Fratello
Tissot PRX Quartz Vs Tissot Jul 13, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tissot PRX Quartz Vs. Tissot PRC 100 Solar Quartz

Last week, we organized a sophisticated confrontation between two platinum dress watches. This week, we decided to keep it a little more low-key. Recently, Tissot introduced its new PRC 100 Solar Quartz with the state-of-the-art Lightmaster technology integrated into the watch’s crystal. The demand for this new watch is already higher than the supply, so […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tissot PRX Quartz Vs. Tissot PRC 100 Solar Quartz to read the full article.

Taking A Look At Bravo Watchware’s Original Gradient Watch Box Fratello
Jul 12, 2025

Taking A Look At Bravo Watchware’s Original Gradient Watch Box

I have been on the hunt for a decent zip-up leather watch case for what feels like forever. It couldn’t be just any case, though. I wanted something that didn’t out itself as a budget-friendly compromise but also didn’t cost as much as a watch itself. It had to be practical, hold a decent number […] Visit Taking A Look At Bravo Watchware’s Original Gradient Watch Box to read the full article.

Mechanical vs. Automatic Watch Movements Explained Teddy Baldassarre
Jul 12, 2025

Mechanical vs. Automatic Watch Movements Explained

Among the many questions a novice watch enthusiast is faced with, “Mechanical vs. Automatic Movement?” is one of the most basic, yet one whose answer is a bit more complex than a simple A-or-B explanation. In fact, “mechanical or automatic” isn’t even really framing the choice correctly. In the article below, we attempt to clarify the subject and answer the most pressing questions about these tiny engines inside your watch. What is a Mechanical Movement? A mechanical movement, like the Nomos DUW caliber below, uses a coiled metal spring, called a mainspring, that releases energy as it uncoils through a series of gears to drive a weighted, oscillating wheel called a balance wheel. The balance wheel’s oscillations are linked to an escapement, which periodically releases the gear train to move the hands forward to record the passing of hours, minutes, and seconds. In short, a mechanical movement in a watch is any type of movement that uses no batteries or electronic components to function - which makes them different from more modern inventions, like quartz, Spring Drive, and solar movements. Technical developments over the centuries are what led to the two types of mechanical movements we’re discussing here. Originally, the movement’s mainspring needed to be wound periodically by hand - first by a key, then by a small knob called a crown that was attached via a stem to the movement. Later, a type of movement was developed that could be wound “automatica...

Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: Nacho’s Favorites From Citizen, Doxa, And Baltic Fratello
Citizen Doxa Jul 12, 2025

Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: Nacho’s Favorites From Citizen, Doxa, And Baltic

The days are long, sleeves are short, and it’s a scorcher out there! So grab your favorite watch, apply a generous layer of sunscreen, and make the most of this sunniest of seasons. As is the tradition of Fratello, the members of the editorial team have been tasked with putting together a list of their […] Visit Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: Nacho’s Favorites From Citizen, Doxa, And Baltic to read the full article.

Insight: Hairspring Materials and Evolution Part I SJX Watches
Casio n Jul 11, 2025

Insight: Hairspring Materials and Evolution Part I

The invention of the hairspring was among the greatest breakthroughs in horology, since its inception suddenly made mechanical timepieces portable, transforming clocks into watches. This not only marked the start of precision timekeeping, but also set mankind upon the long road to perfecting the accuracy of mechanical watches, arguably the most sophisticated pieces of kit on Earth at the time, when such precision was paramount for fields as varied as navigation, warfare, and astronomy. The hairspring turned 350 years old in 2025 and we’re marking the occasion with a series of stories on the topic, including the story of the spiral hairspring and also the importance and evolution of the overcoil. Now we turn to temperature compensation and metallurgy in a two-part story covering the evolution of the hairspring materials up until metal alloys. More exotic materials and inventions will follow in Part II. Elasticity and thermal expandability  One of the fundamental factors in hairspring function is ambient temperature, simply because metal alloys expand or contract uni-directionally with a change in temperature. As a result, watchmakers used calorimetry, the science of temperature effects, and material science, specifically metal alloys, to their gain in advancing hairspring technology. The equation below shows the relation between the initial length of a metal strip L0, measured at a given temperature and the final length LT after a certain change in temperature.  The equ...

Introducing: Two New Orient Star M34 F8 Date Watches With Out-Of-This-World Dials Fratello
Grand Seiko draws inspiration from local Jul 11, 2025

Introducing: Two New Orient Star M34 F8 Date Watches With Out-Of-This-World Dials

Orient Star made its big comeback to Europe a few years ago. Since then, the brand’s M Collections have been taking center stage. While Grand Seiko draws inspiration from local nature, sometimes just outside its studio in Shizukuishi, Iwate Prefecture, Orient Star finds inspiration further afield. Much further indeed, as Orient Star bases its dials […] Visit Introducing: Two New Orient Star M34 F8 Date Watches With Out-Of-This-World Dials to read the full article.

Vacheron Constantin 222 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Vacheron Constantin Jul 10, 2025

Vacheron Constantin 222 Review

The Vacheron Constantin 222 reissue first came out at Watches & Wonders 2022 and it was, quite literally and without hyperbole, the single most talked about watch at the show that year. The revival was a solid gold, integrated-bracelet sports watch that went from a somewhat obscure cult classic to a breakout, mainstream status watch seen on Brad Pitt, Michael B. Jordan, and Chris Paul. Once the initial excitement subsided and everyone got their wrist shots to post on Instagram, the obvious next question posed by industry insiders was, “when do we see a steel model revival?” Well, that question got answered late last year with the release of the Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 Ref. 4200H/222A-B934, a watch that benefits from contemporary watchmaking techniques while looking like it could be straight out of the ‘70s. Done in a stainless steel case and bracelet with a subtle matte blue dial, this new 222 revival became one of the most lust-worthy releases of 2025 shorty after its arrival, less than two weeks into January. For a little history and background, the 222 was released in 1977 and is something of a precursor to the Overseas. I’ve heard a few people incorrectly attribute the 222 to Gérald Genta but it was actually the work of fellow prolific designer Jörg Hysek. The 222 came on the heels of the Royal Oak (1971) and Nautilus (1976) and the 1977 launch coincided with the brand’s 222th anniversary, hence the name. Like the Royal Oak and Nautilus, the  2...