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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen’s Monaco and What Sotheby’s Catalogues Really Tell You

Steve McQueen’s Le Mans Heuer Monaco 1133B crossed Sotheby’s block. The above-the-date-window detail collectors spotted, the hammer price, why it matters.

Introducing - Orient Introduces Its First-Ever Collaboration with Peanuts, with 4 Snoopy-Themed Models Monochrome
Seiko Epson Corporation Mar 10, 2025

Introducing - Orient Introduces Its First-Ever Collaboration with Peanuts, with 4 Snoopy-Themed Models

As we’ve seen recently, Orient, a Japanese watchmaker owned by the Seiko Epson Corporation, is celebrating its 75th anniversary this year. Created in 1950, it has since made a name for itself in the accessible segment with watches such as the Mako or the Bambino. There’s another important name that was created that same year; a […]

Breitling’s Flagship Navitimer B19 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in Steel SJX Watches
Breitling s Flagship Navitimer B19 Mar 10, 2025

Breitling’s Flagship Navitimer B19 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in Steel

The flagship watch of Breitling’s best-known watch, the Navitimer B19 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is now more affordable. The latest iteration with an “ice blue” dial retains the specs of the pink gold 140th anniversary edition launched last year, but trades precious metal for steel. Unlike last year’s limited edition, the new steel model is regular production and is priced under US$30,000, over Breitling’s traditional sweet spot on the price spectrum but still half the retail of the anniversary edition. Breitling Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar_Ref. PB1920251C1P1_RGB Initial thoughts The new Navitimer B19 keeps it affordable, relatively speaking, by combining Breitling’s excellent in-house B01 movement with the tried-and-tested Dubois Depraz perpetual calendar module. The resulting watch is thick at almost 15 mm high, but combines several complications in Breitling’s iconic slide-rule pilot’s chronograph. While the watch is pricier than most of Breitling’s offerings, it is one of the few perpetual calendar chronographs in this price range. Most of such watches tend to be a lot more expensive, although Austrian independent watchmaker Habring² offers similar for less in keeping with its focus on affordable complications. Value proposition The new B19 retains the same basic specs as its precious metal counterpart. The stainless steel case measures 43 mm in diameter and 14.94 mm in thickness. Water-resistant to 30 m, it features the Navit...

Sunday Morning Showdown: King Seiko Vanac Vs. Toledano & Chan B/1 Fratello
Seiko Vanac Vs Toledano & Mar 9, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: King Seiko Vanac Vs. Toledano & Chan B/1

And before you know it, it is Sunday again! Welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown. We hope you are comfortable, with a cup of coffee in hand and a croissant nearby. Depending on where you are, maybe you are even greeted by a soft spring sunshine. Well, say goodbye to your peaceful morning because we […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: King Seiko Vanac Vs. Toledano & Chan B/1 to read the full article.

Our Biggest Watch Collecting Mistakes Worn & Wound
Rolex Mar 7, 2025

Our Biggest Watch Collecting Mistakes

Hey, nobody’s perfect. From time to time, all of us make mistakes. Watch collecting is a wonderful hobby, but it’s also complicated and full of decision points, and that means that eventually, you’ll simply screw up. What makes a mistake a mistake, though, depends on your individual collecting goals, timing, and how much you actually bothered by the consequences of picking the wrong watch or just thinking about these things in a particular way. We asked our contributors to tell us about their biggest watch collecting mistakes, and their submissions include tales of specifics watches that immediately filled them with regret, as well as how changing views of the hobby itself led to understanding they were doing it wrong from the start. Don’t be shy, this is a safe space: let us know what your biggest watch collecting mistakes are in the comments below. Zach Kazan  Mistakes? I’ve made a few. One of the most common maxims in our hobby is that you don’t really collect watches in the first few years you’re involved in all this, you’re just making mistakes and figuring out what you really like. When I look back at the early years of my watch enthusiasm, it looks nothing like where I’m at now. I never could have predicted how my interests would shift, and how my collecting priorities would change. I mean, there was a time in my collecting life when I thought it would be unthinkable to not have a Rolex in the watch box at all times. I was that guy! Really! Than...

Isotope Introduces a Pair of Mercury Limited Editions for British Watchmakers’ Day Worn & Wound
Isotope Introduces Mar 7, 2025

Isotope Introduces a Pair of Mercury Limited Editions for British Watchmakers’ Day

Suppose you travel frequently between the US and Britain. In that case, one difference you’ll notice pretty swiftly after escaping the airport is the proliferation (and absence) of flags depending on which side of the pond you have arrived. Over here, you’ll typically only see a Union Flag flying outside official buildings, or on literally everything inside the many tourist shops around London. It’s not generally seen outside schools, homes or shops. However, we Brits do let a smidgen of patriotism creep out on occasion. The “Last Night of the Proms” even encourages flag waving (and rhythmic bobbing), and we feel a sense of pride celebrating Olympic medals won by superhuman efforts from individuals we only heard about two and a half hours earlier. Display the Union Flag on a watch and most Brits would turn their nose up. A stylized version of the same idea, but created by a watch brand based in the south of England, started by a gentleman from Portugal, and available in very limited numbers, and it’s a whole lot more acceptable. Sometimes we take a little outside encouragement to embrace such things. Isotope is unveiling two watches for British Watch Makers’ Day 2025, which both make vivid use of the Union Flag – the Mercury BWD Cloisonné and Mercury BWD Micro Marquetry. Isotope’s Mercury was first seen last summer in the form of a limited edition with Revolution, and was followed by a Shadow variant which used the same case and movement but a brushed in...

Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Daytona Rolex Chronographs Fratello
Rolex Chronographs Another Friday another Mar 7, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Daytona Rolex Chronographs

Another Friday, another list! This week, we’re highlighting the best pre-Daytona Rolex chronographs. While most watch fans know of such models’ existence, it’s not something we focus on often. This is for obvious reasons. The legacy of the Daytona has become one of the industry’s greatest success stories, so that is where the focus is. […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Daytona Rolex Chronographs to read the full article.

Konstantin Chaykin Returns with Slavic Bread-Creature Wristmon SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Returns Mar 7, 2025

Konstantin Chaykin Returns with Slavic Bread-Creature Wristmon

Drawn from a Russian fairy tale about a bun coming to life, the Kolobok 2 arrives a year after Konstantin Chaykin revealed the original Kolobok. Like its predecessors in the Wristmon collection, this features a dial inspired by the titular character’s face. But the Kolobok 2 marks a departure from the first version in two notable ways: it is now a regular production watch rather than a limited edition, and it features a La Joux-Perret base movement instead of an ETA. Initial thoughts The Kolobok 2 is the latest of many Wristmon models, arguably too many to date. However, the fact that this is a regular production model, as opposed to a limited edition, is a positive development since it indicates the brand is leaving behind the multiple-edition approach. That aside, the watch itself is an upgrade over earlier versions. Although the new Kolobok 2 has the same simple functions arranged as a face, it is powered by a new movement based on the La Joux-Perret G200, replacing the modified ETA 2892-A2 used in preceding entry-level Wristmon models. This calibre is a step forward for the Wristmon model. Amongst other things that put it ahead of the ETA 2892, the G200 sports a a full balance bridge with a free-sprung balance. Another wristmon The Kolobok 2 retains the same dimensions and technical specifications as its predecessors, measuring 40 mm in diameter and 12.2 mm in thickness. As with all Wristmons, it features a notched bezel with 12 screws and a case that’s predominan...

Insight: Regulating a Mechanical Watch Movement SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Mar 7, 2025

Insight: Regulating a Mechanical Watch Movement

A mechanical watch is not always spot on; less-than-perfect timekeeping can happen, often due to an unruly oscillator. The solution is direct adjustments to the hairspring and balance assembly, either slowing down or speeding up the oscillator, a practice known as regulation. Watchmakers have devised multiple innovations to achieve this, including the free-sprung balance, exemplified by the Gyromax of Patek Philippe and Microstella of Rolex. While a simple concept in principle, the mechanics and practice of regulation are nuanced. Here we’ll delve into the theory of regulation and the primary regulating systems: the curb-pin regulator and the free-sprung (or variable inertia) balance. The Lange L043.4 with a screwed balance inspired by pocket watches Basic concepts In order to better understand watch regulation, we need to first cover some of the basic physics behind the watch oscillator: The component responsible for the running rate of a movement is its regulating organ. The regulating organ is made up of a hairspring paired to a balance, which together are also known as a harmonic oscillator. The natural oscillation period is the time it takes the balance to make a full swing, back and forth. The period is made up of two vibrations, one for each direction of the balance motion, with the escapement being unlocked at each vibration. Notably, the natural period of a balance wheel is intrinsic to itself and does not depend on the escapement type or the going train ratio. ...

Seiko Marks 60 Years of Diving with Prospex Editions (and a Micro-Adjust Clasp) SJX Watches
Zodiac cycle Mar 6, 2025

Seiko Marks 60 Years of Diving with Prospex Editions (and a Micro-Adjust Clasp)

To celebrate 60 years of dive watches, Seiko is diving into the deep end with three additions to the Prospex range: the 60th Anniversary Marinemaster Professional (SLA081), 1968 Heritage Diver GMT (SPB509), and 1965 Heritage Diver (SPB511). Whether you’re a die-hard Seiko collector or simply a looking for an affordable, high quality diver, all three are distinct enough from their stablemates to be worth a look. But as exciting as the watches are, they’re arguably overshadowed by something simple yet significant, a feature Seiko enthusiasts have been requesting for a long time. The SPB509 and SPB511 are both equipped with a steel bracelet incorporating a micro-adjustment clasp that can be resized on the go by up to 15 mm, as opposed to the less practical diving extension found in preceding models. The 1968 Heritage Diver GMT SPB509 (left), and 1965 Heritage Diver SPB511 Initial thoughts In Western culture, significant anniversaries like the 25th, 50th, and 100th tend to be celebrated with great fanfare. In contrast, Japanese culture (and also widely East Asian culture) emphasises the 60th birthday – kanreki in Japanese – which also coincides with the completion of the traditional 12-year zodiac cycle. In this context, it’s worth looking closely at how Seiko is choosing to celebrate this milestone. The 1965 and 1968 Heritage models are powered by the well-known cal. 6R-series movements, which offer a 72-hour power reserve. While the pair are essentially variants o...

Doxa Sub 200T Divingstar Review Teddy Baldassarre
Doxa Sub 200T Divingstar Review Mar 5, 2025

Doxa Sub 200T Divingstar Review

Tastes great, less filling. That’s the tagline for a famous light beer, but the same could be said for Doxa’s latest version of its iconic Sub, the 200T. It’s a slimmed-down take on the iconic Doxa Sub diver, and although it features a new case size, this might be the Doxa for people who thought they could never wear the brand, including yours truly. It’s also available in a huge array of colorways, so now there really is something for everyone when it comes to the Doxa Sub. The Doxa brand is certainly among the stars of the classic dive watch universe, and the Doxa we think of first is almost invariably the orange-dialed Sub 300 Professional from 1967, along with the black-dialed Sharkhunter version made famous by legendary oceanographer Jacques Cousteau, not to mention Robert Redford in Three Days Of The Condor. But today, we’re taking a look at the newest member of the Doxa Sub family, and there’s a lot to like here, not least of which is a lower price point. And although I haven’t been diving in quite some time, I can’t help feeling a little like an undersea explorer whenever I wear the 200T, which is quite often these days. The classic Doxa Sub 300 and 300T have always worn rather well for larger watches, due to that distinctive tonneau case shape and those short lugs, but now, there’s a new version for someone who wants a tool watch that’s a bit less…tool-like. Enter the Doxa Sub 200T, rendered in a just-right size at 39mm. Honestly, it feels li...

Introducing: A 12-Set Limited Edition Of Three Hermès Arceau L’Heure De La Lune Watches In Remarkable Colors Fratello
Hermes Mar 5, 2025

Introducing: A 12-Set Limited Edition Of Three Hermès Arceau L’Heure De La Lune Watches In Remarkable Colors

There is no time to waste. The watch department at Hermès has been very busy - busy enough to release no fewer than six new watches ahead of next month’s Watches and Wonders. The novelties include a 12-set limited edition of three Hermès Arceau L’Heure de la Lune watches in surprising colors plus two new […] Visit Introducing: A 12-Set Limited Edition Of Three Hermès Arceau L’Heure De La Lune Watches In Remarkable Colors to read the full article.

Introducing - Unique, Striking Code 11.59 Grande Sonnerie Models for AP’s 150th Anniversary Monochrome
Audemars Piguet Mar 4, 2025

Introducing - Unique, Striking Code 11.59 Grande Sonnerie Models for AP’s 150th Anniversary

As you probably know by now, Audemars Piguet is celebrating its 150th anniversary this year. Last week, the Le Brassus-based brand released an array of new watches, predominantly focused on a new, clever and technically advanced perpetual calendar movement getting rid of recessed correctors (it is far more complex than you might imagine…) But that […]

Fratello On Air: Three Non-Swiss Watches For €20,000 Fratello
Mar 4, 2025

Fratello On Air: Three Non-Swiss Watches For €20,000

Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we’re each choosing three non-Swiss watches with a budget of €20,000. The task is tricky, though, because €20,000 is enough to afford great pieces from the usual suspects, but it means being picky if choosing just one from a costly brand. Get ready for […] Visit Fratello On Air: Three Non-Swiss Watches For €20,000 to read the full article.

Everything You Need to Know About Sinn’s Latest Dive Watch Collection Worn & Wound
Sinn s Latest Dive Watch Mar 3, 2025

Everything You Need to Know About Sinn’s Latest Dive Watch Collection

There are several places you’d never find me-gas station bathrooms, water parks, and tiny airplanes come to mind-but perhaps the very last place I’d ever agree to set foot would be inside a submarine. Stuck inside a metal tube with the crushing weight of the ocean all around you? No thanks, I’ll stay on land. Still, it’s hard to deny the romance of the submarine, especially given that our ocean is still largely unexplored. Whether in scientific expeditions or military endeavours, the remarkable underwater vessel has long gripped the human imagination.  With their latest U series of divers, Sinn is honoring a piece of that maritime history. In part a celebration of 20 years of the German brand using submarine steel in its diving watches, the U15, U16, and U15 each represent a different 1970s German submarine of matching name. The name isn’t just a superficial connection, though-each model of these new U series is limited to 1,000 pieces, and features a case and bezel constructed with submarine steel from the outer hull of the actual corresponding namesake submarine.  What Sets the Models Apart?  At first glance, each U diver looks very similar-they all share that satinized submarine steel case, a captive dive bezel with minute ratcheting, a screw-down crown at the 4 o’clock position, and a striking dark blue-green high-gloss dial with a stream of lighter blue bubbles down the center. But as the names suggest, each yields slightly different design elem...

First Look: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon 38 mm SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Mar 3, 2025

First Look: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon 38 mm

One of the less prominent, but arguably interesting, debuts for Audemars Piguet’s 150th anniversary is the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon 38 mm in sand gold. A compact watch in muted, pale tones but discreetly glammed up with diamonds, the new tourbillon is the first instance of the ultra-thin cal. 2968 (also known as RD#3) appears something other than a Royal Oak. Initial thoughts The 38 mm tourbillon is the sort of watch that’s more interesting than it initially looks. Though it appears to be a ladies’ watch at first glance, largely due to the somewhat unattractive beige stitch-less strap, it is arguably a unisex watch in both size and style. I would have preferred limiting the diamonds to the case middle for a low-key, formal appearance, but even as it is the gem setting is quite modest. But the new tourbillon isn’t just an aesthetic exercise. The cal. 2968 inside is a nifty movement with some clever details that keep it exceedingly thin. The 38 mm case also demonstrates the Code 11.59 works well in a smaller format. This is especially useful since many iterations of the Code 11.59 feel a bit too large (though in some instances the thickness is a technical requirement). Image – Audemars Piguet RD#3 Entirely in the brand’s proprietary sand gold alloy – best described as a pleasantly washed-out red gold – the case measures 38 mm in diameter and 9.6 mm in thickness. It’s set with 235 brilliant-cut diamonds on the lugs, crown, ...

Watch Travel and Storage Solutions - Shop Chat w/ Kat Shoulders Worn & Wound
Mar 2, 2025

Watch Travel and Storage Solutions - Shop Chat w/ Kat Shoulders

In our first ever Windup Watch Shop showroom “Shop Chat”, Devin Pennypacker and Kat Shoulders sit down to talk about some of their favorite watch travel and storage accessories from the shop. They each grabbed three of their favorite items that they find themselves using and talk through why they chose them. Check out the video along with all of their picks below. What is your go-to travel and storage option? In our first ever Windup Watch Shop showroom “Shop Chat”, Devin Pennypacker and Kat Shoulders sit down to talk about some of their favorite watch travel and storage accessories from the shop. They each grabbed three of their favorite items that they find themselves using and talk through why they chose them. Check out the video along with all of their picks below. What is your go-to travel and storage option? The post Watch Travel and Storage Solutions – Shop Chat w/ Kat Shoulders appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Buying Guide - A Selection of Enamel Watches Using Rare Techniques such as Cloisonné, Champlevé or Flinqué Monochrome
Mar 2, 2025

Buying Guide - A Selection of Enamel Watches Using Rare Techniques such as Cloisonné, Champlevé or Flinqué

Enameling is one of the oldest decorative techniques, invented over 4,000 years ago and used, for example, in Mesopotamia and then Egypt. Surprisingly enough, the earliest enamel all used the cloisonné technique, known to be one of the most complex techniques currently in use. Under the word enamel, at least in watchmaking and decorative techniques, […]

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Flamingo Blue” Vs. TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox In Purple Fratello
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox Mar 2, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Flamingo Blue” Vs. TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox In Purple

Is it Sunday already? Yes, it is, and we’ll make sure you have a good last day of the weekend with this week’s episode of Sunday Morning Showdown. Daan and Lex will go head to head with two colorful chronographs. In one corner, Daan represents the Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Flamingo Blue,” which gives off […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Flamingo Blue” Vs. TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox In Purple to read the full article.

New: Louis Erard Unveils Le Régulateur Gravé Bleu Deployant
Louis Erard Unveils Le Régulateur Gravé Mar 1, 2025

New: Louis Erard Unveils Le Régulateur Gravé Bleu

The Louis Erard Le Régulateur Gravé Bleu is an example of the brand's commitment to blending tradition with modernity. This timepiece is part of the Noirmont Métiers d'Art collection and features a unique sector dial that pays homage to the 1930s while incorporating contemporary engraving techniques. The newest release comes in a blue dial with white strap.

eBay Finds: An Unusual Vintage Omax, a Pair of Bulovas, and a Classic King Seiko Worn & Wound
Bulova s Feb 28, 2025

eBay Finds: An Unusual Vintage Omax, a Pair of Bulovas, and a Classic King Seiko

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Croton Chronomaster   The Croton Chronomaster is a classic vintage chronograph with an iconic name. Usually these are called Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver (like I said, iconic), but this iteration has been reduced for brevity’s sake to just the Chronomaster…still a great name. But it’s not just a cool name, this chunky 1970’s chronograph has the classic squarish steel case that looks unpolished but does have some wear from age/use. The aluminum dive bezel is in good shape with minimal wear. The black dial is clean and has a great layout with the dual subdials and date window at 6 o’clock giving it a nice symmetry. The Valjoux manual wind movement is clean and runs well per the seller. View auction here Vintage Bulova Ambassador  Next up is this sweet vintage Bulova. The seller calls it an Ambassador, but to be honest I don’t recall seeing this model attached to that name. Either way, it’s a beauty. The slim white gold filled case is clean, with bold fancy lugs. The black dial looks original and is really clean. It has stylized Art Deco style numerals and a nice subseconds dial at 6 o’clock. The Bulova caliber 7AK manual wind movement is clean and works well pe...