Hodinkee
Three On Three: Debating The Best Titanium Watches Under $10,000
Keeping it light while debating some of our favorite titanium watches from Tudor, Grand Seiko, and Zenith.
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Every Tudor Black Bay: 79220R/B/N, 79230, 79030 BB58, 79830RB Pro, 7939 GMT METAS, S&G, Bronze, Chrono.
The Tudor heritage diver that revived the brand and references every vintage Submariner.
Hodinkee
Keeping it light while debating some of our favorite titanium watches from Tudor, Grand Seiko, and Zenith.
WatchAdvice
Where aviation heritage meets contemporary design, the Zenith x Porter PILOT Big Date Flyback Chronograph delivers bold style and functionality! What We Love The khaki green colour for the case and dial Orange accents stand out beautifully The case isn’t big, even for slimmer wrists What We Don’t The black crown and chronograph pushers seem out of place with the rest of the watch’s colour scheme. Different font are used throughout the dial Velcro strap won’t suit everyone, especially with slim wrists. Overall Score: 8.6 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The Zenith X Porter Pilot Big Date Flyback Porter stands out as a shining example of thoughtful design and craftsmanship in a world where collaborations feel like the norm. This collaboration was a bit unexpected; however, it is a great way to end 2024 with one of the best-looking timepieces released as a dual project. The latest collaboration between Zenith & Porter by Yoshida & Company results in a beautiful khaki green PILOT Big Date Flyback Chronograph This watch, as expected, revolves around the theme of travel. Porter is a Japanese bag brand that has a variety of styles for travel bags. For this collaboration, Porter by Yoshida & Company has supplied the velcro straps for the timepeices. They are also throwing in a specially developed bag that has been made with Zenith’s input, in Porter’s signature khaki-green colour. Zenith, on the other hand, has a long ...
SJX Watches
Over the last decade, metal alloy hairsprings seem to fallen out of favour across watchmaking, with even conservative, haute horlogerie brands like Breguet and Patek Philippe turning to silicon balance springs. Not to mention large-scale makers of sporty watches like Omega and Tudor, which already transitioned to silicon balance springs. Rolex, however, stands out. The Geneva marque continues to employ a hairspring fabricated of its proprietary blue alloy – the Parachrom hairspring. The Parachrom hairspring inside the cal. 4131 of the Cosmograph Daytona The advantages of alloy The use of blue Parachrom is rooted in the simple fact that the right metal alloy boasts performance that is at least on par with its silicon counterpart – while offering some distinct advantages missing in silicon. Alloy hairsprings are traditionally made of Nivarox (and its family of related alloys), a special alloy that neither oxidises nor change its dimensions with variations in temperature. Invented in 1933 and almost a century old, Nivarox is a mix of nickel and iron, making it a ferromagnetic alloy, thus susceptible to influence from magnetic fields. The cal. 3255 of the Day-Date 40 is equipped with a Parachrom hairspring. Image – Rolex In order to make its hairsprings more resistant to magnetism and to bypass the Swatch-imposed monopoly on Nivarox hairsprings (Nivarox-FAR being one of the key companies of Swatch Group), Rolex set out to develop its own hairspring alloy in the early 2...
Time+Tide
The Ball Roadmaster M Model A brings a red and black 'Coke' ceramic bezel to its patented alarm GMT watch.The post The new Ball Roadmaster M Model A raises the alarm with a new calibre appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Urwerk is best known for its all-black, sci-fi watches, so the UR-230 Polaris departs from the norm. Cased in white ceramic composite, the UR-230 Polaris incorporates several advancement in terms of materials: the white case is milled from a proprietary fibreglass-reinforced ceramic that is more resistant to impact than conventional ceramic. Notably, the material was developed in-house according to Urwerk. Initial thoughts Although Urwerk has introduced many iterations of the UR-210/220/230, the Polaris is arguably the most interesting to date because of the material. It retains the familiar design of the series, but represents an achievement for Urwerk with the proprietary ceramic-fibreglass composite. The fact that Urwerk is going beyond complications and case design is laudable. The composite addresses one of the weakness of pure ceramic, which is vaunted for its durability and immunity to scratches – that very hardness makes it fragile. Dropped onto a hard surface, for instance, ceramic may crack or break. Moreover, such damage is impossible to repair, making case replacement necessary (and inevitably expensive). The UR-230 Polaris is more expensive than the other models in the series that sport conventions case materials. The higher price is arguably justified considering the new material, although if this new material makes its way into more affordable Urwerk models, then the material would lose some of its novelty. Satellite complication Fibreglass-reinforced cera...
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Worn & Wound
It’s finally Black Friday, and we’re in full swing here at the Windup Watch Shop. There’s no better time to save with nearly the entire shop featuring discounts, including some products that never go on sale. Best of all, with each purchase you make, you’re eligible to earn 5 Points on every dollar spent. It’s finally Black Friday, and we’re in full swing here at the Windup Watch Shop. There’s no better time to save with nearly the entire shop featuring discounts, including some products that never go on sale. Best of all, with each purchase you make, you’re eligible to earn 5 Points on every dollar spent. The post Deep Discounts, A Free Watch Case, And More Ways To Save appeared first on Worn & Wound.
SJX Watches
Teased at earlier this year during the Summer Olympics when it was photographed on Daniel Craig’s wrist, the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M without a date has finally been officially unveiled. Making its debut in monochromatic colours, the no-frills Seamaster is essentially another take on the Seamaster 300M 007 Edition of 2019. The Seamaster “no-date” is available with either a black-aluminium dial laser engraved with the model’s customary wave-like pattern, or a vertically brushed steel dial with a silvery PVD coating. Less obvious but more notable for enthusiasts is the domed sapphire crystal that lends a vintage feel. Since Omega announced it will no longer be releasing limited edition watches, the new duo will be part of the permanent collection. Initial thoughts The date window has always been a hotly debated topic within watch enthusiast circles, which tend to prefer the purity of a date-less dial. No matter where a date window is placed, there will be critics. In my view, such criticism is sometimes valid. The Seamaster 300M certainly benefits from the facelift, which results in a more aesthetically pleasing dial. The clean dial also suits the functional nature of the model. Priced at US$6,500 on the mesh bracelet, the new Seamaster is priced right considering the feature, including the in-house cal. 8806, a METAS-certified Master Chronometer movement. Ironically, the new Seamaster is US$600 more expensive than the variant with a date. That said, it is arguably...
Time+Tide
Sometimes it is just black and white.The post The Maurice Lacroix Aikon Ceramic makes the material more attainable and stronger appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Indeed, we already put the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M up against the Rolex Submariner in March of this year. Surprisingly, it was the first time those two classics faced each other during one of our Sunday Morning Showdowns. However, those two watches both had a date. With this week’s introduction of the new black no-date […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: No-Date Divers - Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Vs. Rolex Submariner to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Bond doesn't have to keep the secret anymore, the new black (and silver) no-date Seamaster 300M is here, but it's not exactly what we expected from the leak.
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Monochrome
The secret is finally out with this one, although it wasn’t the very best-kept secret to begin with. Over the past few months, starting at this year’s Summer Olympics, former James Bond actor and Omega ambassador Daniel Craig was already spotted wearing a black dial No-Date version of the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M, the brand’s […]
Worn & Wound
The name “Horween” among American leather tanneries is second to none. Above all, the iconic tannery is famous for its shell cordovan - a strong, supple material requiring a six-month tanning process. New straps in 18, 19, and 20mm in stunning shades of oxblood, whisky, and black are now in the Windup Shop. Elegantly tapering to 16mm at the clasp with matching stitching throughout, they’re perfect on everything from a vintage dress watch to your favorite scratched-up tool watch. As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. In addition, all of these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. The name “Horween” among American leather tanneries is second to none. Above all, the iconic tannery is famous for its shell cordovan - a strong, supple material requiring a six-month tanning process. New straps in 18, 19, and 20mm in stunning shades of oxblood, whisky, and black are now in the Windup Shop. Elegantly tapering to 16mm at the clasp with matching stitching throughout, they’re perfect on everything from a vintage dress watch to your favorite scratched-up tool watch. As always, the Windup Watch Team is available via consultation to answer any questions you have. In addition, all of these products are eligible for free domestic shipping across the US. The post Just a Minute with New Horween Shell Cordovan Straps appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Monochrome
Among Switzerland’s elite Haute Horlogerie brands, Audemars Piguet often stands out for doing things differently and exploring different territories. In particular, the brand is not shy to connect watchmaking to a broader culture as we have seen with recent collabs with Marvel (Spiderman, Black Panther) or with the cool Travis Scott x AP Royal Oak […]
Quill & Pad
Omega, Tudor, Chopard, and many more watches all boast “COSC Chronometer” status on their watches, but what exactly does this certification entail? In this episode of How-To, Tim breaks down what exactly a watch needs to achieve to get COSC status and what defines a chronometer.
Worn & Wound
As we’ve seen time and time again in the watch industry, collaborations often open the door to new opportunities, whether it’s an entirely new product, or a limited offering based on an existing product, and this mentality is just as prevalent in the EDC world. In order to bring their first pack to market, Field Notes partnered with “Got Bag” to produce the Pitch Black Rolltop backpack. Got Bag is a softgoods manufacturer whose mission is to clean plastics from the ocean, and repurpose PETG into usable fabric. They currently offer a full gamut of travel items, from backpacks, slings, and smaller travel pouches. This new pack, or rather new colorway is built upon Got Bag’s ROLLTOP EASY pack, which features water resistant fabric, a laptop sleeve capable of holding a 16” laptop, and even a hidden pocket on the back panel (the panel that rests against your back when wearing the bag). While the feature set of this version is mostly the same as the standard model, its appearance is what sets it apart. Drawing inspiration from Field Notes’ iconic “Pitch Black” notebooks, the main exterior fabric is all black, aside from a silvery Field Notes and Got Bag logo. Rather than lining the inside of the pack with a “Kraft brown” fabric, Got Back used a brown webbing for the roll top cinch strap, and the rear accessory pocket zipper pull. Designed to be lightweight, this pack comes in at 1.5 pounds when empty, and can expand from its base 20L capacity to 31L for tho...
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Fratello
The new stainless steel Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph was among our favorite releases during Watches and Wonders 2023. The contrast between the clean blue/gray sunburst dial and the open-worked chronograph dial especially earned our admiration. Of course, the version with a rose gold case and indexes on its black sunburst dial was also very impressive. […] Visit Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph Limited Edition In Full Rose Gold Attire to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Chunky and water resistant to 600 m, the Zenith Defy Extreme Diver is based on the Defy A3648 of 1969. It shares the distinctive styling of the vintage original, but the Extreme Diver is modern in construction and specs. The case is titanium while the bezel is black ceramic. Originally introduced with either a black or blue dial, the Extreme Diver now gets a silver dial while retaining the signature bright orange flange. Initial thoughts Zenith’s catalogue includes several sports watches, including the Chronomaster Sport, but the Defy Extreme Diver is arguably the most distinctive design. With historical roots in the vintage Defy A3648, the Extreme Diver is also original. And the watch also manages to look entirely modern, despite preserving most of the design elements of the vintage original, including the angular case and 14-sided inner bezel. The Extreme Defy is one of Zenith’s pricier time-and-date watches at CHF10,900, but is still a reasonable value proposition considering the in-house movement and overall build quality. Stars Rated to 600 m just like the vintage A3648, the Extreme Diver has a case of brushed titanium measuring 42.5 mm in diameter and 15.5 mm in thickness. Around the trademark 14-sided inner bezel is a unidirectional black ceramic bezel with fluted edges for grip. Large titanium crown guards protect the fluted screw-in crown at three. The dial is finished in silvery-white with sunburst brushing. Like other Defy models, the dial is decorated wit...
Fratello
In April 2024, Zenith introduced the Defy Extreme Diver, a bold and modern dive watch. The brand is most famous for its chronographs, so a new diver is big news. The initial release brought a pair of black- and blue-dialed watches. Today, an icy silver version joins the lineup as a serial-production model. This year’s […] Visit Hot Take: The Zenith Defy Extreme Diver Silver Dial to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The Le Régulateur Gravé Noir is a vintage-inspired take on Louis Erard’s signature regulator wristwatch. The “sector” dial has a grained black finish with engraved markings that are gold-plated, bringing to mind vintage “gilt” dials. Part of the brand’s Noirmont Métiers d’Art collection, the new Le Régulateur shares the same case design and specifications with the recent “Grand Feu” Enamel Regulator. Initial thoughts While Louis Erard is best known for its collaboration with independent watchmakers, such as Konstantin Chaykin and Kudoke, it offers a wider range of accessibly-priced regulator-style watches. And the Le Régulateur Gravé Noir is no different. It’s a fresh take on the vintage-inspired “sector” dial, combining the signature regulator display with rose-gilt engraved markings on a grained black dial. Priced at CHF2,900, the Gravé Noir stays within Louis Erard’s typical price range. It stands out from the competition in this price segment with the unconventional time display on a vintage-inspired dial. Like the brand’s other offerings, it is good value. It also shares the weaknesses of Louis Erard’s other regulator models, namely a thick case. Sector dial The Gravé Noir has the same dimensions as the rest of the Le Régulateur line with a simple, polished steel case measuring 39 mm by 12.82 mm. Inside is a self-winding Sellita SW266-1 that sports a rotor with the brand logo but is otherwise no frills. The movement has 38 hour...
Fratello
IFL Watches keeps surprising us with creative new artwork gracing the dials of watches from various makers. With the Stockholm-based brand’s newest customized dial, we are transported to the world of Arabian Nights. The canvas for this creative journey is the black-dial version of the quartz Tissot PRX. It forms the perfect backdrop for IFLW’s […] Visit IFL Watches Introduces The Tissot PRX Arabian Night Concept Limited Edition to read the full article.
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Fratello
At the beginning of this year, Piaget already spoiled us with its re-edition of Yves Piaget’s Polo Watch. But when your brand turns 150 years old, you don’t limit yourself to just one celebration. That’s why Piaget proudly presents another re-edition based on one of its biggest icons, the cushion-shaped Black Tie. For the occasion, […] Visit Piaget Presents The Andy Warhol Clou De Paris With A Blue Meteorite Dial to read the full article.
Monochrome
Thanks to a licensed collaboration with The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Piaget has been permitted to rename its cult 1970s Black Tie dress watch, which is now officially “the Andy Warhol watch”. Celebrating this meaningful association with the undisputed King of Pop Art and long-time watch collector and friend of the brand, […]
Worn & Wound
Just A Minute With The Timex x Fortnite MK1 The analog variant features a black PVD stainless steel case with a matching black dial and nylon strap, the hour markers replaced with symbols from the game and Fortnite written just above 6:00. A stainless-steel crown provides a rakish departure from the otherwise striking all-black look. The Timex x Fortnite collaboration of digital and quartz watches is a perfect choice for the gamer in your life, sure to become as collectible as the game’s Legendary items. Just A Minute With The Timex x Fortnite MK1 The analog variant features a black PVD stainless steel case with a matching black dial and nylon strap, the hour markers replaced with symbols from the game and Fortnite written just above 6:00. A stainless-steel crown provides a rakish departure from the otherwise striking all-black look. The Timex x Fortnite collaboration of digital and quartz watches is a perfect choice for the gamer in your life, sure to become as collectible as the game’s Legendary items. The post Just A Minute With The Timex x Fortnite MK1 appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Deployant
Breguet re-expresses their timeless spirit with two new references in their Classique collection. Both in platinum. Both with black grand feu enamel dial.
Time+Tide
Black dials, vintage-style GMTs, and German takes on the golden ratio.The post New releases from De Bethune, Carl F. Bucherer, Breguet and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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