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Quill & Pad
The Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève 2019's rules state that this category is for watches only "linked" to the world of diving, but rightly or wrongly our panel is looking for serious diver's watches. These are watches you are most likely to see on wrists, though perhaps not underwater. And the panel is seriously split. What do you think?
Time+Tide
Amidst the morass of vintage reissues that almost all brands seem to have tried their hand at recently, Longines has been successfully combing their archives for the best examples that translate to current tastes, and have done so with good success in recent years. Even in the context of their well-executed reissues of military, chronograph … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Longines Heritage Classic with “Sector Dial” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Nick Gould spotted American actor Mark Wahlberg wearing an early-delivery Rolex GMT-Master II 'Root Beer,' once again putting his penchant for precious metal watches on display.
SJX Watches
A recent startup dedicated to creating unusual objects, The Unnamed Society makes its debut with a table clock shaped like the Colt Bisley Model revolver of the early 20th century. The clock is produced by L’Epee 1839, the Swiss clockmaker that is responsible for practically all of the unconventional and avant-garde mechanical clocks of recent years, most famously those designed by MB&F; but also Chanel. But it’s undoubtedly the success of MB&F;’s sci-fi clocks that have compelled various brands, old and new, to develop their own L’Epee 1839 clocks. Named Hasta la Vista, “goodbye” in Spanish, the clock is the shape and size of an actual revolver, measuring 350mm or just under 14 inches long. It’s made of steel and palladium-plated brass, and can be mounted on its accompanying base either via the grip or the barrel. Pictured here with the grip made of horn from the bighorn sheep, as well as engraving on the frame Mechanically it is identical to the 8-day clocks L’Epee 1839 has produced in other shapes and sizes. The time is indicated by two revolving cylinders – one each for the hours and minutes – that take the shape of the rear section of the pistol frame. The escapement, wheel train and mainspring are where the cylinder (which contains the bullets) would be. Winding is accomplished by a key that’s inserted into the end of the barrel. Though it’s a limited edition of 50, each clock can be customised with a variety of options offered for the g...
Time+Tide
The history of aviation is full of famous planes. For better or worse, planes like the Spirit of St. Louis, the Enola Gay and the Southern Cross are landmark machines in the evolution of the flying machine. But few vehicles loom larger in popular culture (or indeed reality) than the epic H-4 Hercules, popularly known … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bremont H-4 Hercules appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The 2019 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève Calendar and Astronomy category is for mechanical watches comprising at least one calendar and/or astronomical complication. And this year all six watches have strong chances at the prize. Our panel isn't unanimous in selecting a winner, but close to it: the moon wins!
Deployant
Patek Philippe introduces six Singapore 2019 Special Edition watches reserved exclusively for the Southeast Asian market.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: It’s easy for the Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Everose Rolesor to get lost in the perpetual noise caused by some of its more popular siblings within Rolex’s Professional range. But to simply overlook this wristwatch would be a categorical mistake, because the Yacht-Master 40 has a great many positives when compared not just to … ContinuedThe post Rediscovering the Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Everose Rolesor appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms looks like a lot of other watches out there, and there’s a reason for that. The Fifty Fathoms was first. It was one of the first watches ever designed for diving and, as a result, has become almost the Universal Man of dive watches, where all watches that follow are derivative. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Barakuda Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Exotic materials: love them or hate them? And where are you in regard to plastics, which are ever-increasingly appearing in wristwatch cases and movements? This might help you decide.
Time+Tide
With the watchmaking industry’s famed awards ceremony, the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève - or as it’s more commonly known, GPHG - fast approaching, we thought we’d mention a few more nominated watches that you should be keeping an eye on. Now, we’ve already covered a host of brilliant timepieces from Bulgari and Zenith that have been … ContinuedThe post 3 of the best ladies watches at GPHG appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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The Sixties line presents legendary 1960s design and embodies the art of Glashütte watchmaking, whose traditions date back to 1845. It was only in 2018 that the popular line saw the first of its striking annual editions. For its annual edition 2019, the German manufactory presents the Sixties and Sixties Panorama Date in multi-faceted orange.
Quill & Pad
The Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève's 2019 Chronometry category awards mechanical watches comprising at least one tourbillon and/or a special escapement and/or another development improving chronometry (precision timekeeping). Our panel clearly wishes that there were more empirical evidence for the claims of high precision and is split on the winner. What's your favorite?
SJX Watches
Nineteen-sixty nine was a watershed year in watchmaking – the culmination of the race for the world’s first automatic chronograph. It was a three-way contest between two Swiss watchmakers and one from Japan. Both Swiss movements – the Zenith El Primero and the Heuer-Breitling-Buren-Dubois-Depraz Caliber 11 – have enjoyed a following to this day, but the third – the Seiko 6139 Speedtimer – remains relatively obscure as it went out of production in 1979. The 6139 was a single-register chronograph with a 30-minute totaliser at six o’clock and a quickset day-date display. Crucially, it had a column wheel and vertical clutch. And an even lesser known fact is that Seiko produced its first chronograph – the “Crown” with a column-wheel and mono-pusher – just five years before, in 1964 to coincide with that year’s Tokyo Olympic Games. In short, the 1960s were a major decade for Seiko in terms of chronographs. The Seiko “Crown” chronograph of 1964 with its characteristic black plastic bezel Hence, to mark the 50th anniversary of its first automatic chronograph, as well as the 55th anniversary of its first chronograph, Seiko has unveiled a pair of limited editions, both chronographs, naturally. The two editions are each limited to 1000 pieces and powered by the same calibre, the in-house cal. 8R48 that was introduced in 2014. The first and the more modern looking of the two, is the Prospex 50th Anniversary Automatic Chronograph ref. SRQ029. I...
Time+Tide
Over the last few years, Seiko’s Presage collection has earned something of a reputation for excellence in enamel, with a quick succession of hot watches with fired dials. And while in the past these pieces have leant towards complexity, SJE075 and SJE077 simplify things a little, and serve as contrasting tributes to the original Seiko … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Classical elegance shines in the Seiko Presage SJE075 and SJE077 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The last time Audemars Piguet had a skeletonised Royal Oak perpetual calendar in the catalogue, it was 2015. The skeleton perpetual is familiar enough that it doesn’t seem to have been missing for that long, but it’s been a half-decade. In the mean time, Audemars Piguet (AP) unveiled the next generation of Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, with the case widened to 41mm, and then introduced it in black ceramic, and only just, in white ceramic. And it took some time to develop the thinnest automatic perpetual calendar ever. But now the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked is back, in proper, fine form. Putting a skeleton movement inside the bestselling Royal Oak in black ceramic is obvious, and could have been done in the easiest way possible. But AP went one better; it developed a new calibre, the 5135, that is not merely open-worked, but also redesigned for maximum aesthetic effect. “This is the first time in many years that AP has introduced an openworked perpetual calendar wristwatch,” says Michael Friedman, the head of complications at AP, “The effort here was to create an experience of contrast and play of light.” I’d say AP succeeded. The watch pictured is a travelling prototype, so pardon the cleanliness of the movement Ceramic and the Royal Oak But first, a small, modestly technical digression on the material and the watch. The case and bracelet are made of black ceramic, specifically zirconium oxide stabilised with yttrium oxide – essential for...
Time+Tide
If you’ve ever picked up a glossy magazine or attended a major sporting event it should come as no surprise to learn that marketing is hugely significant in the world of watches. It’s also hugely expensive, competitive and, all-too-often, dull. From awkward posed photographs with A-list celebrities, to baffling brand ambassadors and the most tenuous … ContinuedThe post The Moser method – smart marketing in a social age with the Pioneer Tour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Have you ever had a real snake wrap itself around your wrist? If not, I urge you to do so. Really. It’s a wonderful sensation. If you have, you will know exactly what I mean. It feels amazingly sensuous. Gentle, warm, almost fluid. And those were pretty much my first impressions when I tried on … ContinuedThe post Temptation strikes with Bulgari’s Serpenti Seduttori appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Diving is a pursuit - more than most - that relies on gear. Which is why it’s an area full of storied suppliers that are as much a part of pioneering and evolving diving as the divers themselves. Of course, watch brands fall into this matrix - but they’re a relatively small part of the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Aquadive Poseidon – paying tribute to the golden age of diving appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
This year, for the first time in history, the complete collection of nominees for the 2019 GPHG – the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève - were presented in Australia. All 84 of them, by a sum total of 50 brands. And this stellar mega-team, worth well over $30 million AUD, is visiting only four locations before … ContinuedThe post 5 questions about the GPHG you were too afraid to ask, including how voting works appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Swiss luxury conglomerate Richemont has just added Buccellati to its stable of luxury brands, which include watchmakers like A. Lange & Söhne, IWC, Panerai. Richemont is buying the 100-year old Milanese jeweller from Gangtai Group Corporation Limited, a Chinese conglomerate that bought a majority stake in 2017 that reputedly valued the jeweller at €230m, or about US$271m at the time, according to Forbes. Gangtai had owned 85% of Buccellati, with the remainder held by the founding family, but like many of its peers the Chinese group has been forced to sell assets as the Chinese government put a stop to the debt-fuelled overseas expansion that was earlier fashionable. The terms of Richemont’s acquisition were not disclosed, although Chinese news website Jing Daily reports Buccellati was valued at US$313m, including debt, equivalent to about 15% of Richemont’s net cash position in the last fiscal year. According to Richemont, Buccellati family scion Andrea Buccellati as well as several other family members will remain with the jeweller after the takeover. Buccellati gives Richemont a more diverse presence in high-end jewellery, where its business is concentrated the Parisian jewellers Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, which together account for the bulk of group sales. In contrast to the French style of both Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, Buccellati’s Italian sensibility gives Richemont a stylistic counter to Bulgari, the Roman jeweller owned by French luxury ...
SJX Watches
First introduced two years ago as an entry-level model styled on vintage marine chronometers, the Marine Torpilleur has just received an upgrade. The Marine Torpilleur Monaco Yacht Show is a limited edition fitted with a grand feu enamel dial, created to mark the watchmaker’s sponsorship, now in its 11th year, of the annual yachting event in Monte Carlo harbour. While the standard model has a brass dial, the Monaco edition has a three-part dial made of vitreous enamel that’s fired in an oven – a desirable feature that increases its retail price by a modest 20% or so. Like all of Ulysse Nardin’s enamel dials, it is produced by Donze Cadran, a subsidiary of the watchmaker that’s one of the few dial makers in Switzerland able to make fired enamel dials in substantial numbers. An old school dial The dial starts out as a copper disc that is covered with white enamel powder that’s then baked in a small oven, several dials at a go, to melt the enamel and fuse it to the dial. The dial has two apertures for each of the sub-dials, which are separate pieces that are covered in grey enamel and fired separately. After they are fired, the dials are printed with enamel markings, resulting in another trip to the oven to set the markings. Then the apertures on the main dial, as well as the edges of the sub-dials, are filed by hand to ensure a perfect fit with each other. Once complete, the sub-dials are soldered to the main dial. The dial is marked “09.19” – the m...
Time+Tide
In what is a meeting of two of the most significant collections from the Franck Muller manufacture, the Vanguard Crazy Hours is an exciting offering, made even more exciting with the news of an exclusive collection for Asia. The Vanguard Crazy Hours is the first time the brand has housed the famous Crazy Hours movement inside … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Franck Muller Vanguard Crazy Hours Asia Exclusive appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Editor’s note: Panerai are known for many things – a rich Italian heritage in watchmaking that dates back to 1860, steep aquatic history providing watches for the naval forces of many countries, most notably Italy and Egypt, and a quintessential design language that has spanned the better part of a century … the list goes … ContinuedThe post Taking another look at the Panerai Luminor Due PAM00943 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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TAG Heuer has unveiled its penultimate limited edition 50th anniversary Monaco, and this one pays homage to the wonderful era that was the noughties. This is the fourth iteration of the limited-run watches, which are celebrating 50 years of the fabled original Heuer Monaco, first released in 1969. We’ve already seen the eclectic mix of … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Monaco 1999-2009 Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The road was long, but we have arrived: at the start of the year, A. Lange & Söhne kicked off the gradual launch of the 25th anniversary editions of the Lange 1. Made up of 10 different models, unveiled one a month, the series has now come to a conclusion with the final model – the Lange 1 Tourbillon “25th Anniversary”. While all other watches in the Lange 1 family have remained in the catalogue since their debut, the Lange 1 Tourbillon was always a limited edition, making the last instalment of the anniversary series the rarest. The model was first unveiled in 2000 in pink gold (250 pieces) and platinum (150 pieces), followed by a honey-gold version (150 pieces) a decade later to mark the 165th anniversary of Ferdinand Adolph Lange’s birth. Then the watch received the “Handwerkskunst” treatment in 2014 (20 pieces), giving it a platinum case and glossy, black enamel dial, resulting in a very desirable watch. And Lange also quietly produced a handful of one-off examples over the years, including a recent one for retailer The Hour Glass in Tokyo. Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst The specially decorated movement of the Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst Interestingly, Lange 1 Tourbillon “25th Anniversary” marks the first time that the watch is produced in white gold. The case remains the standard size, 38.5mm wide and 9.8mm in height, also the same dimensions as the standard Lange 1. And like all prior 25th anniversary editions, it features a solid...
SJX Watches
Omega’s carefully paced rollout of thematic watches is building up to next year’s release of No Time to Die, the 25th James Bond film and perhaps Daniel Craig’s last outing as 007. With the upcoming film seven months away, the just-announced Seamaster Diver 300M instead celebrates the 50th anniversary of On Her Majesty’s Secret Service (OHMSS), the 1969 James Bond adventure that was the one and only time Australian actor George Lazenby played Bond. In the usual style of a James Bond edition, the OHMSS edition is a standard model that’s been face-lifted to include numerous details referring to 007. The base watch is the 42mm Seamaster Diver 300M with a steel case. Here the dial is black PVD-coated, black ceramic dial that’s engraved with the familiar gun barrel spiral motif and the base of a bullet at its centre. The hands and indices are 18k yellow gold, with the 12 o’clock marker being featuring the three spheres from the fictional Bond family coat of arms. Two less obvious details lie in the date disc, which has its “7” rendered in the “007” logo, as well as the 10 o’clock marker that has a “secret signature” of “50” visible only in the dark within the Super-Luminova. The edition is limited to 7,007 and pieces, with an 18k yellow gold plate screwed into the side of the case bearing the individual watch number. It’s packaged in a large box that includes a travel pouch emblazoned with the Bond coat of arms, as well as a steel brace...
Time+Tide
Horological heavyweight Richard Mille has just unveiled their latest limited edition masterpiece, the Richard Mille RM 50-04 Kimi Räikkönen, and there’s only one thing we can say … Bwoah! In typical fashion only to be expected of Richard Mille, the RM 50-04 is an incredibly complicated and quite frankly wonderful timepiece, designed for the one … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Richard Mille RM 50-04 Kimi Räikkönen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The GPHG foundation describes the Men’s category for watches entered into the 2019 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève as containing indications for only hours, minutes, seconds, simple date, power reserve, and classic moon phase. Here our panelists select their favorites from the six shortlisted watches, and the reactions are quite mixed.
Quill & Pad
Elizabeth Doerr takes a look at the exploding juxtaposition between watches and tennis so far in 2019, taking stock of who's sponsoring what and why.
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