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New: Franck Muller Vanguard Beach
Franck Muller releases the Vanguard Beach, and update to the collection with new bright, bold and audacious colours. Its time to party!
Results for Above the Date Window
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko Announces Three New U.S. Market Exclusive Divers
A look at the new Seiko Prospex SPB419, SPB421, and SPB423 divers - all inspired by cold water diving locations across the United States.
Worn & Wound
Seiko Launches Three US Exclusive Dive Watches Inspired by Cold Water American Diving Locales
The SPB line in Seiko’s Prospex collection needs no introduction, and to many it represents old-school Seiko excellence: historic design with modern specs at reasonable prices. In particular, the SPB143, 145, and 147 are especially beloved thanks to their wearability and 62MAS lineage. Seiko is now introducing three new U.S. Special Edition models based on that reference, each corresponding to a cold-water American diving locale. The SPB419 makes the biggest statement of the three, and its striking gradient dial is intended to invoke the northern Great Lakes’ blue ice, notably in Michigan. A rare natural phenomenon, this blue ice is achieved when sustained temperatures allow water to freeze and thicken over long periods of time. When light then hits the ice, the red part of the light (i.e. longer wavelengths) are absorbed while shorter blue wavelengths are transmitted. This seldom seen sight is truly something to behold, and Seiko captures its essence here. The SPB421 and SPB423 take us from the Lakes to Alaska where we meet a different type of icy structure: glacial moulins. Also known as mills, moulins are well-like structures that form from weaknesses in the ice and can sometimes reach hundreds of meters to the bottom of the glacier. The SPB421’s dark blue dial with a subtle gradation captures the ice’s color at depth – you know, in case you haven’t seen it yourself, while the 423’s dial is meant to evoke the light gray tones of glacial ice as a whole. Al...
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New: Czapek Place Vendôme Complicité – explained and compared
Czapek released two new models in collaboration with Bernhard Lederer - we explain the complication of the new Place Vendôme Complicité.
SJX Watches
Highlights: Notable Complications at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Autumn Auction
Commencing in early October, the autumn auction season begins with Sotheby’s Important Watches I, a catalogue of 205 lots that will be sold on October 7 in Hong Kong. The auction includes artisanal timepieces, examples of independent watchmaking creativity, and exceptional complications. Here, we present eight notable complications including some unsurprising, six-figure picks like a Patek Philippe ref. 5004R with a special-order dial and a Rolex ref. 6062 “Stelline” from the original Japanese owner. But the list includes some that may fly under the radar but deserve recognition, such as the travel-ready Richard Mille RM62-01 (albeit conceived for flying private) and an impressive Patek Philippe ref. 942 grand complication pocket watch that includes a grande and petite sonnerie, putting it in the top rank of all pocket watches. Important Watches I takes place on October 7, 2023. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here. Lot 2166: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar ref. 345.056E The Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar has effortlessly fuses the renowned Lange 1 design with a complex movement, conspicuously excluding the tourbillon found in its larger counterpart. At launch, the watch was available in two guises: pink gold with a grey dial or the more popular, limited edition white gold with a “salmon” (pink gold) dial, as we see here. In contrast to conventional calendars that employ sub-dials, the Lange 1 perpetual calendar sea...
Quill & Pad
Patron en Lalique Serie 3: Sensational Tequila in a Sensational Decanter
So, what does a squillion dollar tequila taste like? The color is a deep gold/bronze, not dissimilar to an aged rum. The nose is both powerful and mellow, with dried fruits, orange rind, cinnamon, hints of nutmeg, honey, even cassis and Christmas cake. The palate is quite stunning, as smooth and seductive as one could imagine.
SJX Watches
Review: Cartier Santos Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor
When we first featured at the Santos-Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor right after it was unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2023, it was clear that the model had struck a chord among almost those who had the pleasure to see it in the metal. The design is distinctively Cartier in style, slightly whimsical, yet stands apart from almost everything else in the brand’s catalogue. Cartier’s legacy as a renowned jeweller is indisputable, and this timepiece is a fusion of its knowledge in jewellery and watches, with a good dose of the traditional Cartier style. From the lacquer case inlays to the artful skeletonisation, the result is a balanced face that is entirely original. Key takeaways The design is an ideal combination of a contemporary, tasteful skeleton movement with the historical Santos case design The plane micro-rotor is just right in size, neither too big nor too small, and adds just the right amount of whimsy without being gimmicky The large, as opposed to XL, case is ideal for the movement, but some might find it too compact As it is with all Cartier skeleton movements, the Etachron regulator feels out of place Initial thoughts I usually take a loupe to a watch for a closer look, and when I did so with the Santos skeleton the movement’s design shone through. The plates and bridges of the brand-new cal. 9629 MC are both structural and add to the aesthetic brilliance of this piece. Though Cartier has long made skeleton watches a hallmark of its line-up, the cal. 9629 M...
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New and reviewed: Bell & Ross BR 03 Gyrocompass
Bell & Ross releases a new addition to their instrument lineup with the new BR 03 Gyrocompass: a time only watch in a black ceramic case.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Citizen Unveils A Super Accurate Atomic Timekeeping Moonphase
A new Eco-Drive movement that automatically adjusts the moonphase every day.
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New: ArtyA Curvy Purity Tourbillon
ArtyA releases the Curvy Purity Tourbillon as an addition to their collection with a tonneau shaped sapphire crystal case with a tourbillon.
Quill & Pad
Czapek & Cie Antarctique Frozen Star S: Featuring a Scintillating (and Ultra-Rare) Osmium Dial – Reprise
Osmium is so rare and dense, has such a high melting point, and is so hard to form or compress that it has very few practical uses. But earlier this year Czapek & Cie released the limited edition Antarctique Frozen Star S with an absolutely mind-blowing dial made of pure osmium crystals.
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New: Bulova Oceanographer GMT
Bulova, renowned for its exquisite timepieces, pays homage to its iconic 1972 Oceanographer watch, fondly known as the “Devil Diver,” by launching an exciting trio of Oceanographer GMT watches. Merging timeless designs with contemporary elements, the Oceanographer collection receives a significant upgrade with the addition of GMT functionality.
Quill & Pad
MB&F; LM Sequential EVO Dual Chronograph: An Ingenious Application of a Simple Idea (That Nobody had Thought of Before) – Reprise
Ian Skellern usually starts explaining a wristwatch with a tour of the watch's dial and main features, but the LM Sequential EVO is a monument to its mirror-image dual chronograph with Twinverter function movement so here he starts with the best part: its movement.
Worn & Wound
Watches and What Else: Storytelling through Photography and Videography with Elle Grant
Editor’s Note: Watches and What Else is a continuing series where we look at some of the other things our watch collecting community is interested in. We’ve always found watch collectors to be a curious, well rounded bunch, and in this series we’re going to explore a variety of the watch adjacent (and sometimes, not so adjacent) interests of collectors of all stripes. From illustration to aviation, video games and comics to heavy metal and craft cocktails, there’s a lot to explore, and we think you’ll enjoy diving into the pursuits that your fellow watch enthusiasts are passionate about. This week, Chris Antzoulis talks to photographer, videographer, YouTuber, and watch collector Elle Grant about her collection and her passion for visual storytelling. You may know Elle Grant from the content on her YouTube channel, @Elizabeth_Grant. On her channel Elle mainly discusses watches and topics in the watch industry, but in a much different way than you may be used to. You’ll never see her bust out calipers, or rattle off the spec sheet from the company website. What you will get, however, is a story from someone who understands her craft, and is rooted in the art of photography and videography. Watches When asked where her love of watches came from, Elle was quick to finger TGV (The Urban Gentry himself) for the crime. She further explained that around seven years ago she had a Timex that served as her watch for work, and as her interests in mechanical watch...
SJX Watches
Exhibition: Vacheron Constantin Retrograde Displays in Singapore
After having developed its recent offerings centred on the retrograde display, Vacheron Constantin is presently hosting High Watchmaking Retrograde Displays: A Vacheron Constantin Signature in Singapore from now till September 30, 2023. The exhibition chronicles the development of the retrograde complication from its origins in the 19th and early 20th centuries. On display are rare examples of pocket watches and wristwatches from the brand’s collection. These range from the 1930 “Bras en l’Air”, literally “Arms in the Air” (pictured above) featuring a dual retrograde display, to the more contemporary Métiers d’art Savoirs Enluminés Caper in 2015. This latter piece offers a modern interpretation of the complication, with designs from a page from a 12th century medieval manuscript. Also on show are the brand’s latest timepiece offerings that focus on this specific complication, which were initially introduced at Watches & Wonders in March of this year, like the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date. High Watchmaking Retrograde Displays: A Vacheron Constantin Signature is taking place from September 1-30, 2023 at the Vacheron Constantin boutique located at ION Orchard. It is open to the public daily from 10:00 am-8:30 pm. ION Orchard Singapore 2 Orchard Turn, #02-07 Singapore 238801 To register, visit Vacheron-constantin.com. Correction September 23, 2023: The Don Pancho minute repeater is not on shown at the exhibition, however, it is highlighted by...
Quill & Pad
Louis Moinet Cosmopolis: Official Guinness World Record for Number of Meteorites in a Watch
The Louis Moinet Cosmopolis includes pieces from 12 different, and very rare, meteorites from Jean-Marie Schaller's own collection. And this earned him the Guinness World Records™ title for the "most meteorite inserts in a watch." Martin Green takes a closer look.
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New: Louis Moinet Cosmopolis
Louis Moinet creates a new tourbillon watch with 12 meteorite inserts! The Cosmopilis a few hours ago. We bring you the release with our commentary.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: A Historic El Primero, a Vintage Cyma Chronograph in Great Condition, and a Beautiful and Unusual Ladies Seiko
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Movado Zentih El Primero Going to start this week off strong with a super cool, big ol’ vintage Movado El Primero chronograph. This bad boy has it all, big chunky 44mm steel case, El Primero automatic movement, and beautiful acrylic 12 hour bezel insert. The black dial with three subdials is superb, with nice lume filled white hands, and a blue chrono seconds hand. The case looks unpolished and has a great blocky style. The El Primero is a classic chronograph movement with a long history, and was the first high frequency automatic chrono. Seller states this gem was recently serviced and runs perfectly, so you should be good to go. You don’t see these for sale in auction format often! View auction here Vintage Seiko Turtle 6309-7040 Following up one classic with another! The vintage May 1977 Seiko 6309-7040 diver is the real deal. The Seiko 6309 is still one of the most under-rated vintage divers, despite its amazing quality and history. This example looks to be all original and in really nice shape. The large steel case still exhibits the original brushed finish, but does have some marks. The original bezel insert is also excellent, with only some small nicks here and ther...
Hodinkee
In-Depth: What A New LM Split Escapement EVO Might Mean For Future MB&F; Releases
Sure, it might just be a new dial color for a year-old watch, but I'm taking the chance to dive into the history of it and where we think the brand could go next.
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New: Norqain Wild One Hakuna Mipaka Limited Edition
Norqain releases the third collaboration with wildlife ambassador Dean Schneider and introduces the latest Wild One Hakuna Mipaka, a nod to King Dexter.
Hodinkee
Introducing: A New Cartier Tank Cintrée Limited Edition In Platinum (Live Pics)
Perfectly executed in platinum, a new Tank Cintrée is the latest of Cartier's heritage-inspired hits.
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New: SevenFriday Chromatic is back
SevenFriday returns to its roots with splashes of colour with three new references as the PS3 Chromatic series in blue, green and orange.
SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Announces Semi-Finalists for Independent Watchmaking Award
The 20 semi-finalists of the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives have been announced. An initiative started by the French luxury giant, the prize aims to reward the best independent watchmaking by supporting the winner through a grant and mentorship. The semi-finalists represent the full range of talent from across the industry and world, with established names such as Strehler and Sarpaneva alongside relative newcomers such as Yosuke Sekiguchi. There is also a range of abilities in this list, from those who are making almost a complete watch under one roof, to those who conceive and then bring together craftspeople to execute. It is reassuring to see such a wide variety in styles and approaches being represented here. Selecting just five to move on to the finals will certainly not be an easy task for the panel of judges. The 20 semi-finalists are: Tischkalender Sympathique – Andreas Strehler Tourbillon Grand Sport – Auffret Paris Project One – Barrelhand Ultralight 11G – Behrens Tourbillon Classique, Souscription Édition – Deprez Horloger Homage to Harrison One – Felipe Pikullik Part Time – Itay Noy L’Abeille Mécanique – John-Mikaël Flaux Arkhea – Khemea KS 05 Titanium Blue Aventurine – Kross Studio Persée Nuit – Maison Alcée Roots – Narbel & Co Black Hole Tourbillon – Ondřej Berkus Fundamentum – Oscillon RP1 – Régulateur à détente – Pagès Chronographe Rattrapante – Petermann Bédat 119C – Sarauer Horolog...
Worn & Wound
Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin Return to their Time Eater Concept with a Darker Sequel
It’s no surprise that after the successful launch of the Time Eater, the viral collaboration between Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin that launched in April, that the two would attempt a follow up. In fact, not only is it not a surprise, it was expected by anyone who paid close attention to the marketing materials we saw earlier this year, which teased another release to come. Well, like the horror movie franchises that this collaboration sometimes evokes, the sequel has come quickly. The Time Eater II: From Dusk to Dawn, is a pair of watches that use the same basic design as the original Time Eater, but in a darker (literally and figuratively) execution. I don’t know if a “Halloween watch” is actually a thing, but given the aesthetic of the new Time Eater and the season we find ourselves in, it makes a strong case. Like the first drop, this release sees two different versions of the watch in two different case sizes, released alongside one another. Instead of the silvery white dials of the first pair, here we have black (for the 39mm watch) and anthracite (on the larger 42mm version). Both have bright red minute hands that match the major aesthetic shift on these new Time Eaters: a truly gross bloodshot eye hour register. It’s paired with the same sawtooth seconds register at 6:00, and when everything is put together it certainly gives off a spookier vibe, making the original watches with hints of purple and green seem downright playful by comparison. The ...
Worn & Wound
Oris Introduces a New Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph with Major Case Refinements
As the wave of vintage-inspired watches stretches into its second decade, it’s easy to forget who was at the forefront. Among them was Oris and its Divers Sixty-Five, a collection that has grown to encompass myriad configurations. Customers are spoiled for choice with steel, bronze, and two tone watches in various sizes and with dials ranging from demure to outright fun. Up until 2019 (not counting the Brashear limited edition a year earlier), the Divers Sixty-Five had always been just that: a diver. The Oris Divers Sixty-Five Chronograph has always been quietly competent, but today Oris updates the model. Spoiler: there’s a lot to like. First and foremost, Oris has massaged the case to 40mm, a more palatable size for the mainstream with finer proportions. Thickness is down from 17mm(!) to a more manageable 15.4mm. Gone also are the overtly vintage accents on the bezel edge and throughout the dial. You won’t find any fauxtina lume or gilt text here. Instead, what we have is a truly monochromatic dial and bezel layout. One gets the impression that this is a more serious, if somewhat austere, watch with its foot firmly planted in the modern era. What hasn’t changed is what’s inside: behind the sapphire exhibition caseback beats Oris’ caliber 771 (Sellita 510 base) providing 48-hours of power with automatic and manual winding. You have central chronograph seconds, continuously running seconds at nine o-clock, and a thirty minute counter at three. Water resistance...
SJX Watches
Urwerk Conceives a Sci-Fi Tower Clock for Charity
With a towering height of 1.62 m and hefty weight of 40 kg, the one-of-a-kind Space-Time Blade created for Only Watch 2023 undeniably embodies the quintessential Urwerk style in both form and concept. The Space-Time Blade is the only sci-fi, retro-electronic clock in an auction dominated by mechanical wristwatches, proving that Urwerk always does things its own way. Even then the Space-Time Blade is hardly a clock in the conventional sense. It eschews minute and hour hands, and even the outline of a conventional standing clock. Instead it illustrates Urwerk founders Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei’s fascination with the captivating and vintage technology of Nixie tubes. It will be sold by Christie’s during Only Watch, the charitable auction held every other year to raise funds for research into a cure for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. Initial thoughts It’s easy to see this in the corner of a Brutalist home, alongside other examples of interpretive modern art, but that is not what makes this piece interesting from a construction or technical standpoint. Instead it is the Nixie tubes and their display, along with the multiple timekeeping functions that provided reason for pause. The many and varied ways in which this piece can measure and display time speak to the heart of Urwerk’s philosophy. Known for polarising pieces that push the line between timekeeper and sculpture, Urwerk has created its most abstract timepiece to date with its singular take on the standing ...
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New: BA111OD Chapter 4.7 Onyx Tourbillon C. Lémanic
The New Chapter 4.7 Onyx Tourbillon C. Lémanic is a stunning timepiece that combines the best of Swiss craftsmanship and innovation. It is the latest creation from BA111OD, a young and dynamic watch brand that aims to challenge the conventions of the industry.
SJX Watches
Highlights: Sotheby’s Paris “Fine Watches” Online Auction
Sotheby’s Fine Watches has just opened online, marking the start of the fall auction season. Curated by the auctioneer’s Paris office led by Benoit Colson, the sale promises a diverse selection of vintage and contemporary watches from establishment names like Rolex and Breguet, along with a handful of independent watchmakers. While the complete catalogue boasts 160 lots, we have put together a selection of interesting highlights ranging from value-buy complications like a Breguet rattrapante chronograph to the unusual first-generation Christiaan Van Der Klaauw planetarium, along with a very nice vintage Rolex GMT-Master ref. 6542. And for European buyers, Sotheby’s is notable for being the sole global auction house conducting watch auctions within the European Union – majority of such sales are in Geneva and London – which gives clients the chance to purchase watches without the hassle associated with import taxes. Fine Watches takes place online September 15-29. All the watches will be on show at the preview exhibition inside Sotheby’s Paris office located at 76 Rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré. Registration for bidding and the catalogue can be found on Sothebys.com. Lot 363: Rolex GMT-Master ref. 6542 in yellow gold The Rolex GMT-Master ref. 6542 was mostly in stainless steel with the distinctive “Pepsi” bezel. However, the present lot stands as out for being in yellow gold with a brown bezel and matching dial with nipple-shaped hour markers. Dating to 1958,...
Hodinkee
Vintage Watches: Freddie Mercury's Seiko, '90s Breguet, And Have High-End Indies Gone Too High?
From neo-vintage Breguet to Abercrombie and Roger Smith, we whip around the latest watch auctions as the falls season heats up.
Worn & Wound
It’s M.A.D. 1 Raffle Time Again, Now with a New Green Version
If you’ve been trying to score a M.A.D. 1 – the absolutely insane, value oriented limited edition watch that most certainly is not an MB&F; but is conceived by many of the same people – you’re in luck. Max Busser, the “MB” of MB&F;, has announced that a new version of the M.A.D. 1 is soon to be released, this time in green, with options to purchase still determined by a raffle. Ever since the original M.A.D. 1 appeared in the spring of 2022, it’s been an object of considerable fascination for the many admirers of MB&F; who simply can’t afford a watch with a six figure price tag. The conceit of the M.A.D. 1 is that it offers a whole lot of the imagination and playful whimsy of an MB&F; piece, but with an off-the-shelf movement (heavily modified) in an unusual case for not a whole lot of money. Their scarcity, and the sheer visual impression these watches leave, has made them an enduring Instagram hit with a certain type of enthusiast. The new M.A.D. 1 is effectively the same watch as the previous version, but with bright green accents instead of red. For those who might be brand new to the concept, a quick overview of how thing works might be in order. The heart of the M.A.D. 1 is a simple Miyota automatic caliber that has been inverted, so the back of the movement points up, where you’d normally find a dial. But there is no dial – just a rapidly spinning, triple blade, tungstend/titanium rotor, which we suspect is the single most heavily modified piece of...