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Results for Swiss vs Japanese Watchmaking

4,409 articles · 663 videos found · page 119 of 170

Inside Akrivia – Artisanal Manufacturing in Geneva SJX Watches
Rado xically Jan 2, 2024

Inside Akrivia – Artisanal Manufacturing in Geneva

Followers of high-end independent watchmaking are likely familiar with Akrivia and its founder, Rexhep Rexhepi. Akrivia’s work, especially its finishing, has earned widespread acclaim and record auction results. Paradoxically the brand got off to slow start at its founding in 2012. Akrivia only rocketed to prominence with the launch of the Chronomètre Contemporain in 2018 and has been on the ascent ever since. Now just getting into its second decade, Akrivia has achieved a level of success that often proves elusive to upstart independent watchmakers, many of which have come and gone in the past few years. This success is due to numerous factors, but key among them is the brand’s demonstrated ability to evolve and improve. I recently had the opportunity to visit the brand’s workshops in Geneva’s Old Town to see how far Akrivia has come and get a hint of what’s in store for the future. Akrivia today Today, the brand employs 20 staff, up from just 10 in 2021. Considering its annual production of around 40 watches per year, this puts Akrivia in good company among the most artisanal brands in the industry. It would be tempting to look at this headcount growth and predict that production will soon increase, but that’s not the case. While the team of watchmakers has grown slightly – it now stands at eight – most of the added roles are go bring more manufacturing capabilities in-house and accelerate product development, along with a few administrative positions. M...

Review: The New Breguet Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes Deployant
Breguet Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes DEPLOYANT Dec 26, 2023

Review: The New Breguet Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes

The minute repeater is often seen as one of watchmaking’s most sophisticated complications. The histories of the minute repeater and Breguet have been entwined for nearly 250 years. While Abraham-Louis Breguet, the brand’s founder, did not invent the minute repeater, he was deeply involved in improving it. As early as 1783, he created the firstRead More

Oris Divers Sixty-Five Review Teddy Baldassarre
Oris Dec 21, 2023

Oris Divers Sixty-Five Review

The Oris Divers Sixty-Five collection has found a receptive and substantial audience since its introduction in 2015, firmly establishing itself as one the Swiss brand's most versatile and creatively innovative product families. Whether it's the retro appeal of its original 1960s design, the exclusivity of the Carl Brashear editions, or the playful pastels of the Cotton Candy models, the Oris Diver Sixty-Five has something for just about any type of watch enthusiast. Here is a comprehensive rundown of the line, from its mid-sixties inspiration to today.  1965: The Original Waterpoof Oris started making watches in 1904 in the Swiss town of Hölstein, where it is still based today. The brand made its first purpose-built dive watch in 1965, naming it the Oris Waterproof and targeting the era’s growing masses of recreational diving enthusiasts - many of whom were likely seeking a more affordable alternative to prohibitively priced genre pioneers like the Rolex Submariner and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. The Waterproof was a product of its time, with a case made of chromium-plated brass, a crystal made of Plexiglas, and a strap made of sturdy but decidedly non-luxurious black rubber. The case, with a dive-scale bezel that rotated in both directions, measured a rather modest 36mm and housed a manually wound mechanical movement, the 17-jewel Oris Caliber 654; at the time, Oris made most of its own movements in-house. This historical divers’ model (above, right), while never a...

Announcement: New Faces Join the SJX Editorial Team SJX Watches
F.P. Journe s manufacture as well Dec 19, 2023

Announcement: New Faces Join the SJX Editorial Team

I am pleased to end the year with new additions to the team – Brandon Moore and David Ichim. Both occasional contributors before, Brandon and David will now become regular, exclusive contributors. Brandon’s writings explore the diversity of watchmaking and watch collecting. Amongst his recent stories are a visit to F.P. Journe’s manufacture, as well as its dial- and case-making facility. Brandon also recounted his experience learning traditional engine turning at a guilloche workshop by Nico Cox. And scheduled for January 2024: his story covering a visit to Akrivia’s workshops in Geneva. David’s contributions are more technically oriented, with the most recent being a detailed analysis of the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Optimum that explains why it might be the ultimate F.P. Journe chronomètre. A freshly-eroded remontoir spring at the F.P. Journe manufacture At the same time, Russell Sheldrake will be departing in early February 2024 – we wish him well. Finally, Oliver R. Müller of LuxeConsult is no longer a contributor to SJX Watches. He contributed a handful of articles from 2020 to 2023; these articles are no longer available on the site. Mr Müller is no longer associated with us in any form. Any queries can be directed to us via the contact form.  

News – The Shortlist of Candidates and Jury for the 2024 Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives Monochrome
Louis Vuitton Watch Prize Dec 18, 2023

News – The Shortlist of Candidates and Jury for the 2024 Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives

About a year ago, Louis Vuitton, through its manufacture of watches La Fabrique du Temps, announced the establishment of the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives, a biennial prize that celebrates the creative talent, savoir-faire and audacity of the independent watchmaking industry, to support and encourage artisans and entrepreneurs and accompany future generations. Since […]

Seiko Prospex 1968 Diver’s Modern Re-Interpretation Save the Ocean Limited Edition SLA055 and SLA057: Diving Deep! – Reprise Quill & Pad
Seiko Prospex 1968 Diver’s Modern Dec 16, 2023

Seiko Prospex 1968 Diver’s Modern Re-Interpretation Save the Ocean Limited Edition SLA055 and SLA057: Diving Deep! – Reprise

Japanese watch giant Seiko once again draws upon its many years of experience in the discipline of diver’s watches to reboot a timepiece from 1968 for a new generation. The two Seiko Prospex 1968 Diver’s Modern Re-Interpretation Save the Ocean limited edition timepieces are real dive watches made for professional divers and pioneering adventurers, manufactured to weather the most extreme situations under water.

The Kollokium Projekt 01 Broadens Creative Horizons SJX Watches
Dec 14, 2023

The Kollokium Projekt 01 Broadens Creative Horizons

Positioned as a creative endeavour rather than a traditional brand, Kollokium debuts with a departure from conventional watchmaking norms, the Projekt 01. Born from the aesthetic sensibilities of its founders, Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi, Kollokium is about unconventional design and raw, unpolished aesthetics. Kollokium is a project-based offering, with each “projekt” iterated into variants but produced in limited numbers. Projekt 01 begins as a “Friends & Family” edition only for insiders, but a publicly available version will soon be launched in early 2024. Initial thoughts The Projekt 01 blends avant-garde design with innovative manufacturing processes, and an affordable price tag. And it also doesn’t take itself too seriously, as evidenced by the case back – something that collectors tired of self-important brands will appreciate. The cast steel case delivers an industrial and robust aesthetic, setting it apart from watches in this price segment. On top is a highly-domed “box” sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating that enhances the visual experience. But most intriguing is the three-dimensional pixellated dial made up of with 468 hand-applied cylindrical markers tipped with Super-LumiNova, a surprising degree of craftsmanship given its price. Kollokium’s philosophy is also reflected in the decision to identify the La Joux-Perret G101 movement. Like many watch start-ups, Kollokium is committed to transparency, while being mor...

First Look – The New Andersen Genève x Benjamin Chee HH Celestial Voyager Supersonic Monochrome
Dec 13, 2023

First Look – The New Andersen Genève x Benjamin Chee HH Celestial Voyager Supersonic

The Andersen Genève x Benjamin Chee HH Celestial Voyager Supersonic is the latest in a series of classic world timers created by one of the most respected Swiss independent watchmakers and avid Singaporean collectors, Benjamin Chee. These sophisticated, elegant wristwatches transport us to a different era, echoing the artistry of bygone elegance. A prime example, […]

Experts and Collectors Weigh in on the Return of Universal Genève Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet among them Universal Genève Dec 13, 2023

Experts and Collectors Weigh in on the Return of Universal Genève

Early yesterday morning, news broke in the watch world that was both surprising, and felt inevitable. Universal Genève, the highly regarded and historic Swiss brand that has been effectively dormant for years, will be revived and relaunched by the same ownership team currently steering the ship at Breitling. While the news of Universal finally getting a high profile relaunch isn’t exactly shocking (reviving heritage brands shuttered during the Quartz Crisis has been a favorite pastime in the watch industry over the last decade), we weren’t expecting the Breitling connection. The news (and reaction to it) speaks both to the great affection the community feels for the Universal Genève brand, and to the strength and financial turnaround of Breitling under Georges Kern’s tenure.  Universal Genève has a long and rich history, and has grown significantly in esteem in recent years. They were part of an explosion of interest in vintage watches that began more than ten years ago, but unlike other brands that benefited from increased attention on historic vintage pieces (Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet among them), Universal Genève doesn’t exist as a modern watchmaker in a meaningful way. For that reason, there’s always been a mystique to the brand that can’t really be replicated. We can, and do, compare vintage versions of Submariners, Daytonas, and Royal Oaks to their modern equivalents, and can thus relate to these watches through a modern context or l...

Breaking News: Breitling Acquires Universal Genève SJX Watches
Breitling Acquires Universal Genève Breitling Dec 12, 2023

Breaking News: Breitling Acquires Universal Genève

Breitling has just announced the acquisition of Universal Genève, a once-storied brand famous for its Polerouter and Compax chronographs but that was dormant for years. Breitling will pay CHF60 million for the brand, but in tranches with CHF20 million upfront and the balance over the next five years. The acquisition marks the first step in chief executive Georges Kern’s ambitions of building a watchmaking group, which will presumably go public. According to Mr Kern, Universal will be revived by a new team and run independently of Breitling, though it is almost a certainty Breitling will bestow upon its sister company some of its in-house movement know-how. A sleeping beauty Since 1989, Universal Genève has been owned Stelux, a Hong Kong watchmaking group focused on the affordable end of the market. The company’s primary business is the lucrative distribution of Seiko in Hong Kong and Southeast Asia, while its City Chain stores specialised in low-priced watches. Stelux owns a handful of other Swiss brands, including Solvil et Titus and Catena, none of which are premium brands as Universal might possibly be. Although Universal attempted several halfhearted comebacks, particularly in the 1990s, the brand has gone nowhere for some time, making it a relatively easy turnaround given the starting point. Commenting in the takeover announcement, Breitling chief executive Georges Kern says, “Rebuilding a brand with such a rich narrative is not a quick endeavor-it is a meti...

Zenith Introduces a Conceptual Take on the Defy Extreme with a New Reference Sporting a Highly Reflective Mirror Finish Worn & Wound
Zenith Introduces Dec 11, 2023

Zenith Introduces a Conceptual Take on the Defy Extreme with a New Reference Sporting a Highly Reflective Mirror Finish

An idea that we return to frequently around here is the ability of Zenith, moreso than just about any other Swiss brand with a lengthy, complex history, to straddle the line between heritage and pushing forward with daring, contemporary designs. Think of almost any other brand with roots dating to the late 19th or early 20th century that is still making watches, and chances are they focus largely on paying respect to the past, or they have moved on and iterated in some way. Zenith, on parallel tracks, does both, and I think one of the reasons they’re able to do that so successfully is that pushing the envelope aesthetically is part of their heritage. The Defy line is the most obvious example of this, and with this new Defy Extreme reference, Zenith continues to define what it means to be a Defy in the first place with a bold new take on their high spec chronograph that is as much sculpture as it is horology.  The Defy Extreme Mirror, as the of the watch would imply, is all mirrored surfaces, creating a unique and highly reflective effect that is actually almost the antithesis of what we’ve previously seen from the Extreme line. This, after all, is Zenith’s most hardcore sports watch, and is frequently seen in rugged, blacked out cases made from tech forward materials. The Defy Extreme Mirror, however, is stainless steel, and has been given a mirror polish on every surface that is meant to evoke the appearance of chrome. It’s objectively decorative, but the highly ...

Hands-on – The Graceful Rose Gold Moritz Grossmann Tefnut Silver-Plated by Friction Monochrome
Moritz Grossmann Dec 11, 2023

Hands-on – The Graceful Rose Gold Moritz Grossmann Tefnut Silver-Plated by Friction

Moritz Grossmann (a manufacturer named after the founder and director of the German School of Watchmaking) creates some of the most beautifully crafted wristwatches available today, and one of its finest offerings is the Tefnut Silver-Plated by Friction, introduced earlier this year. Like the brand’s Tremblage, Hamatic or Benu Heritage models, this watch is rich […]

Interview – Gautier Massonneau, CEO and Founder of Trilobe, on the Present and Future of the Indie Watchmaker Monochrome
Trilobe Dec 8, 2023

Interview – Gautier Massonneau, CEO and Founder of Trilobe, on the Present and Future of the Indie Watchmaker

A savvy mix of boldness and French poetry, Trilobe timepieces eschew traditional codes and provide their own offbeat take on mechanical watchmaking. Dubai Watch Week provided the perfect opportunity to sit down with its CEO/founder and creative director, Gautier Massonneau, to discuss how this young independent watchmaking brand was born, his plans for the future […]