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[Photo Report] LVMH Watch Week Comes to NYC Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Hublot Jan 24, 2023

[Photo Report] LVMH Watch Week Comes to NYC

Last week, we had the opportunity to go hands-on with many of the new releases from LVMH brands, who celebrated their LVMH Watch Week to kick off the new year. We saw new watches from Zenith, TAG Heuer, Hublot, and Bulgari, and even had the chance to sit with leadership from the brands to discuss their plans moving forward. Stay tuned for more impressions coming to the podcast and the site later this week, and in the meantime you’ll find a photo report from our time with the watches, along with a few takeaways from the experience. From lavish Hublots to perfectly understated TAG Heuers, there’s a little something for everyone here, including a surprise or two along the way.   Zenith We’re kicking things off with Zenith, who showed us new additions to their Skyline collection, which includes a new skeletonized dial, as well as smaller 36mm variants. They also had their latest Defy Revival A3691 with brilliant red dial, and perhaps best of all, and original ‘Bank Vault’ example (courtesy of podcast alum, Romain Marietta). There was a bonus appearance by a new boutique exclusive Defy with a grey and gold dial that worked much better in person that any of the images we’d seen up to that point. First impression of the new Skyline Skeleton was just how well the slightly larger proportions of the case worked on the wrist. TAG Heuer TAG Heuer had no shortage of watches to show us, from a new case in their smart watch Connected range, to that stunning 60th anniversary ...

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Zenith Defy Watch Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith Jan 21, 2023

Zenith Defy Watch Guide

Swiss watch manufacture Zenith traces its roots to 1865, when it was founded in the village of Le Locle by precocious 22-year-old watchmaker Georges Favre-Jacot. As one of the first watchmaking maisons to integrate all aspects of the watchmaking process under one roof, from case manufacturing to movement production to final casing and assembly, Zenith has long prided itself on its quest for timekeeping precision. The company has earned a record number of chronometry prizes over the years, and its most influential contribution to watchmaking history is its El Primero chronograph caliber, released in 1969. (Learn more about El Primero here.) In that same pivotal year, Zenith also released an avant-garde wristwatch series called Defy, whose bold, edgy design proved to be ahead of its time, and found its expression in the now-legendary Ref. A3642.  The Original Defy (1969) That watch was nicknamed the “coffre-fort,” a French term translating to “bank vault” or “safe,” a reference to its robustly angular, octagonal case, 14-sided bezel, and high-for-the-time water resistance of 300 meters, secured by its crown, caseback, and mineral crystal, all of which screwed securely into the case. Its “ladder-style” bracelet from legendary chainmaker Gay Frères also made the original reference notable. The Defy was positioned as Zenith’s toughest watch, featured in an advertisement in which six of the watches were strapped to the spokes of a motorcycle in a speed test a...

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Fears and Christopher Ward Collaborate for the First Limited Edition from the British Watch and Clock Makers Alliance Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Collaborate Jan 20, 2023

Fears and Christopher Ward Collaborate for the First Limited Edition from the British Watch and Clock Makers Alliance

We’ve covered the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers a few times since it was founded in 2020. We’ve had Christopher Ward’s Mike France and Roger Smith on our podcast to discuss the origins of the trade group, and we devoted a panel at last year’s Windup Watch Fair in New York City to the coming “British Invasion” of watch brands, which the Alliance is a big part of. Mostly, though, we’ve just seen British brands have a real moment over the last several years, and two of our favorites have collaborated on the first watch released by the Alliance. The all new Fears Christopher Ward: Alliance 01 takes a slice of what we love about both brands and combines it into a very limited watch that will only be available to Alliance Club members.  It’s worth pointing out from the outset that this watch represents a big part of what the Alliance set out to do upon its founding, which is to foster collaboration between British watchmaking companies. Sharing resources and forging partnerships across the Alliance’s 77 trade members is very much the goal of the organization, and this new watch reflects that in a unique and highly tangible way.  The Alliance 01 is notable for the way it balances the aesthetic language that Fears has established over this most recent period in their history with the technical know-how of Christopher Ward. The stainless steel case is bespoke, made specifically for this project, but will immediately make Fears fans think of the cush...

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The Zodiac Super Seawolf x Rowing Blazers Limited Edition – Now Available In The Windup Watch Shop Worn & Wound
Zodiac Super Seawolf x Rowing Jan 19, 2023

The Zodiac Super Seawolf x Rowing Blazers Limited Edition – Now Available In The Windup Watch Shop

The Sea Wolf is Zodiac’s most important and iconic watch design. First released in 1953, it is one of the watches that has defined the modern dive watch. Featuring a rotating bezel, large lumed markers and hands, and a steel bracelet, it had all of the elements needed for a diver. As part of its ongoing collaboration with Harry’s Bar, Jack Carlson’s cult brand Rowing Blazers is partnering with Zodiac to create a limited-edition Super Sea Wolf timepiece celebrating the oldest cocktail bar in Europe.   The Sea Wolf is Zodiac’s most important and iconic watch design. First released in 1953, it is one of the watches that has defined the modern dive watch. Featuring a rotating bezel, large lumed markers and hands, and a steel bracelet, it had all of the elements needed for a diver. As part of its ongoing collaboration with Harry’s Bar, Jack Carlson’s cult brand Rowing Blazers is partnering with Zodiac to create a limited-edition Super Sea Wolf timepiece celebrating the oldest cocktail bar in Europe.   The post The Zodiac Super Seawolf x Rowing Blazers Limited Edition – Now Available In The Windup Watch Shop appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Hermès Debuts a Luxe Take on the H08 Sports Watch SJX Watches
Hermes would remove Jan 17, 2023

Hermès Debuts a Luxe Take on the H08 Sports Watch

Having just introduced the cushion-shaped H08 sports watch last year, Hermès is now giving it a new look with a case in rose gold, ceramic, and DLC-treated titanium. While the design is identical to the earlier versions, the new H08 gains a bold and luxurious look – along with a steeper price tag – with the new mix of case materials. Initial thoughts The mix of materials on the new H08 are a perfect complement to the clean design and simple lines of the watch. Though certainly a bit more flashy than the muted originals, the new H08 is still an understated watch. I appreciate the use of ceramic and DLC-coated titanium as it creates contrast while dialling down the bling factor. The result is a watch that manages to look different from other sports watches, even though the black-and-rose-gold formula is a familiar one. But as with the original, I wish Hermes would remove the date between four and five o’clock. Given its functional design and focus on geometric shapes, I feel the H08 should be about an unconditional focus on the time. Priced at US$17,000, the new H08 costs almost double the model in titanium. That’s about the going rate for upgrading from titanium to a precious metal case, but it is still a chunk of change. While the original was fair value given its cost-to-performance ratio, this one is a little tougher to justify, though it is arguably far more attractive. Two-tone cushion The new H08 is actually comprised of three different materials: the bezel a...

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MICRO MONDAYS: The Le Jour Delmare delivers a 1970s-inspired dive watch for a great price Time+Tide
Jan 16, 2023

MICRO MONDAYS: The Le Jour Delmare delivers a 1970s-inspired dive watch for a great price

Le Jour aren’t what you would typically consider a microbrand. They weren’t funded through a Kickstarter campaign, nor were they founded by a young visionary who wanted to shake up the watch industry. In fact, if the Le Jour brand name is familiar to you, it may be because they were quite a popular brand … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Le Jour Delmare delivers a 1970s-inspired dive watch for a great price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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A Week In Watches Ep. 32: LVMH Watch Week Lands with a (Big) Bang, & Oris Drops a New Caliber Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Carrera alongside Jan 15, 2023

A Week In Watches Ep. 32: LVMH Watch Week Lands with a (Big) Bang, & Oris Drops a New Caliber

Welcome to A Week In Watches episode 32 with Managing Editor, Blake Buettner jumping in to chat about some of the new watches released during LVMH Watch Week. We’ve got some bombastic Hublots, an anniversary LE of the TAG Heuer Carrera alongside a low-key killer Aquaracer, and of course, some new Skyline references from Zenith. If none of that is your thing we’ve also got some news from Oris, who released a new caliber this week within a lovely Big Crown Pointer Date. Find links to all these stories below and hit the video for the full episode. Share your thoughts on YouTube (and subscribe to the channel while you’re there), or right here in the comments section.  This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. For an excellent and ever-growing catalog of watches, straps, clocks, and more, head to windupwatchshop.com. The Carrera Turns 60 this Year, and TAG Heuer is Celebrating This year marks the 60th anniversary of the Carrera chronograph, and if you thought TAG Heuer was going to let even a month go by without acknowledging what is perhaps their most famous and admired watch, well, you must be new. The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph 60th Anniversary is exactly what you probably want to see if you’re a fan of classic Heuer racing chronographs, as it’s modeled after one of the most legendary Carrera references, the 2447 SN, and matches it detail for detail. Read the full story here. Hublot Asks: Why Settle for Steel When You Could Have SAXEM? ...

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The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Vincent Deschamps Worn & Wound
Jan 13, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Vincent Deschamps

Editor’s note: In our first Three Watch Collection for $5,000 of 2023, reader and fellow watch writer, Vincent Deschamps of Mainspring.Watch brings us a trio of classics from some of our favorite small independent brands. There’s a lovely and unique balance to these three watches and it’s one of the most creative we’ve come across yet.  You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. It wasn’t until I thought of submitting my ideas for a three-watch collection for $5,000 that I imagined myself as someone who could have a three-watch collection. While I tend to only wear the same watch everyday (the Lorier Falcon III,) I do see the massive benefit of having other watches for different purposes. As an enthusiastic support of independent watchmaking, below you will find my selection for a three-watch collection below. Each watch fulfills a particular need and use case and I believe each one does it quite well. Lorier Falcon Mark III – $499 At the top of my list is the Lorier Falcon Mark III released in late 2022, the archetype everyday sports watch. I’m a sucker for watches that can do 100% of what I need 95% of the time, and that’s what the Falcon is to me. It comes with a solid build, good specs, and an elegant figure that makes it work in most situations I find myself in. And it’s quite affordable coming in at $499. There are two things about this watch that make it work so well for me: it...

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Auction Watch: A Single-Owner Collection of F.P. Journe at Phillips SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Jan 13, 2023

Auction Watch: A Single-Owner Collection of F.P. Journe at Phillips

Le Concours de Complexité is probably the smallest watch auction ever conducted by Phillips. Taking place online from January 13-20, the sale comprises just 11 watches. But all 11 are F.P. Journe watches, including important models like a Sonnerie Souveraine, Chronomètre à Résonance Ruthenium, and Centigraphe Anniversaire. So while the quantity is modest, the quality and value are high. And the watches all come with impeccable provenance. The former owner is a prominent businessman from Southeast Asia who is active real estate development. He purchased most of them brand new and has clearly kept them in immaculate condition. Le Concours de Complexité begins on January 13 and will run until January 20. Bidding and the catalogue can be accessed on Phillips.com. Below we round up a trio of highlights from the sale. The Sonnerie Souveraine Lot 8001 – Chronomètre à Résonance Ruthenium Synonymous with the independent watchmaker, the Resonance is correctly regarded as one of the most ingenious creations in contemporary watchmaking. Francois-Paul Journe was the first to implement the concept in a wristwatch, having been inspired by 18th century clocks operating on the principle of resonance. This example is one of the Ruthenium series that was launched in 2001. The name comes from the fact that the dial and brass movement bridges are plated in ruthenium, giving them a dark grey finish. Notably, the Ruthenium editions are the last F.P. Journe models to utilise brass m...

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Why the Grand Seiko “Snowflake” captivated the watch world Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Snowflake” captivated Jan 12, 2023

Why the Grand Seiko “Snowflake” captivated the watch world

What’s cooler than being cool? Well, if you’re Outkast, the answer is “ice cold!” (alright, alright, alright), but if you’re a watch collector, there’s a good chance the answer is the Grand Seiko ‘Snowflake’. When first introduced, watch fans were dazzled by the ultra-fine finishing of the titanium case, wowed by the technological prowess of … ContinuedThe post Why the Grand Seiko “Snowflake” captivated the watch world appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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LVMH Watch Week: The Zenith Defy Extreme Glacier brings intrigue with a subtle pop Time+Tide
Zenith Defy Extreme Glacier brings Jan 12, 2023

LVMH Watch Week: The Zenith Defy Extreme Glacier brings intrigue with a subtle pop

LVMH Watch Week is back, and Zenith is bringing out the big guns to kick off 2023. And one of the biggest and boldest has to be the new limited-to-50 Defy Extreme Glacier chrono, a technological tour-de-force in a striking package that incorporates a unique material. The 45mm titanium case still retains the angular, architectural … ContinuedThe post LVMH Watch Week: The Zenith Defy Extreme Glacier brings intrigue with a subtle pop appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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LVMH Watch Week: Hublot revitalises a classic and introduces some bold evolutions Time+Tide
Hublot revitalises Jan 12, 2023

LVMH Watch Week: Hublot revitalises a classic and introduces some bold evolutions

Hublot is kicking off 2023 with a big bang, debuting a brightly hued tourbillon in an exotic new material. An OG classic makes its return, now in new case materials and a wide range of size choices. A bold new chronograph looks and does good, created to benefit endangered wildlife. LVMH Watch Week is upon … ContinuedThe post LVMH Watch Week: Hublot revitalises a classic and introduces some bold evolutions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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5 Times a Watch Surprised Me After the Fact Worn & Wound
IWC Tribute Jan 11, 2023

5 Times a Watch Surprised Me After the Fact

Watches can be tricky things to judge without getting some real world wrist time. Details like their scale or finishing details can be lost in even the best of images, and that’s to say nothing of more intangible things, like their heft or the way the bracelet wraps around your wrist. Try as we might, we still sometimes end up writing a watch off, or worse still, prematurely lauding it, before allowing enough hands-on time to appropriately confront our biases. These watches have a way of coming back to us, and like many things in life, a way of surprising us after the fact. With each example, we hope to learn a bit more about our blind spots, and take a bit more pause when scouting the landscape ahead.  These are some examples of watches that surprised me after their initial launch, and what I learned from the experience. Jump into the comments below to share your thoughts and experiences. The IWC Tribute to 3705: Learning to Ignore the Numbers IWC has ridden their Pilot and Big Pilot ranges heavily in recent years, and while I enjoy the aesthetic of these watches, I’ve never been fond of the on-wrist experience with any of them. When I first saw the Tribute to 3705, I was quick to dismiss it based on some of the numbers, predominantly the thickness measurement north of 15mm. But then I got my hands on one, and it was the watch that triggered a reassessment of how I think about the numbers around watches. I even wrote an article implying you to do the same. The Tribut...

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LVMH Watch Week: TAG Heuer unleashes a flurry of releases Time+Tide
TAG Heuer unleashes Jan 11, 2023

LVMH Watch Week: TAG Heuer unleashes a flurry of releases

TAG Heuer gives us another helping of the Monza, now in a carbon case and bold colours. New Sport, Golf and Titanium Connected watches mark the brand’s continued evolution of their smart watch collection. The Aquaracer Solargraph line continues, now with a Grade 2 Titanium bead-blasted case. The Carrera celebrates its 60th with a 600-piece, … ContinuedThe post LVMH Watch Week: TAG Heuer unleashes a flurry of releases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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LVMH Watch Week: Bulgari dazzles with their new “Time is a Jewel” collection Time+Tide
Bulgari dazzles Jan 11, 2023

LVMH Watch Week: Bulgari dazzles with their new “Time is a Jewel” collection

The Divas’ Dream and Allegra have been given new colour schemes. The Serpenti Seduttori is now available with a black lacquer dial. The Serpenti Tubogas Infinity now has flowing diamonds between the case and the bracelet LVMH Watch Week is bringing in the new year in fine form. For this particular series, instead of breaking … ContinuedThe post LVMH Watch Week: Bulgari dazzles with their new “Time is a Jewel” collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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LVMH Watch Week: Zenith expands their starry Defy Skyline universe with new skeleton and 36mm models Time+Tide
Zenith expands their starry Defy Jan 11, 2023

LVMH Watch Week: Zenith expands their starry Defy Skyline universe with new skeleton and 36mm models

The new Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton replaces the recently discontinued Defy Classic Skeleton. The star-motif of the skeleton dial is now four-pointed instead of five-pointed.  New Skyline Skeleton has no date and moves 1/10th of a second counter from 9′ to more symmetrical 6′ position. New Skyline 36mm does not have a 1/10th of a second counter, … ContinuedThe post LVMH Watch Week: Zenith expands their starry Defy Skyline universe with new skeleton and 36mm models appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Up Close with Grail Watch 4: Bell & Ross x Alain Silberstein Black Ceramic Trilogy Revolution
Bell & Ross x Alain Silberstein Black Jan 9, 2023

Up Close with Grail Watch 4: Bell & Ross x Alain Silberstein Black Ceramic Trilogy

Grail Watch is proud to unveil the sophomore release of Chapter 1: Dream Collaborations between Bell & Ross, the brand that broke the mold in the ’90s and 2000s with their aviation-inspired designs, and our artist-in-residence and watch design extraordinaire, Alain Silberstein. Grail Watch 4 is a trilogy of watches rendered in black ceramic and […]

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Wei and Jeremiah Unbox Grail Watch 4: Bell & Ross x Alain Silberstein Black Ceramic Trilogy Revolution
Bell & Ross x Alain Silberstein Black Jan 8, 2023

Wei and Jeremiah Unbox Grail Watch 4: Bell & Ross x Alain Silberstein Black Ceramic Trilogy

Wei and Jeremiah discuss the first ever collaboration between two watch industry icons, Bell & Ross and Alain Silberstein. Grail Watch 4 presented a unique opportunity for Alain to work with the second watch brand that he always had strong admiration for after Ressence, and that was Bell & Ross. Bruno Belamich and Carlos Rosillo […]

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