Hodinkee
Auctions: Three Editors Pick Three Watches Each From Monaco Legend's Fall Auction
From watches that shouldn't exist (but do) to some hidden gems, we dig through the catalog.
Results for Above the Date Window
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Hodinkee
Fratello
Laco Extends Its Scorpion Line Of Sports Watches With Black DLC Models
We mostly know Laco for its extensive collection of vintage-inspired pilot’s watches. However, the brand also offers more modern silhouettes in its Squad and Sport Watches collections. The latter is a series of versatile sports watches with the looks of a modern diver. Besides the standard model series, Laco also allows you to customize one […] Visit Laco Extends Its Scorpion Line Of Sports Watches With Black DLC Models to read the full article.
Monochrome
In-Depth - Discovering G-SHOCK’s New Full-Metal, Full-Analog Octagonal GMC-B2100 Series
It’s a matter of course in the journey of each and every watch enthusiast that he or she will someday stumble upon the G-SHOCK line of watches from CASIO, and have to come to terms with how they feel about them. A large majority of those folks will inevitably decide to call themselves a G-SHOCK […]
Quill & Pad
New Release: Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie Crossroads Chronograph: Deep Blue and Secret Alloy
Czapek developed a new guilloché pattern called "Crossroads," which features straighter, widely spaced lines reminiscent of tire treads. And they are featured to full effect in the Faubourg de Cracovie Crossroads chronographs.
Deployant
New: Casio G-Shock G-STEEL GM-2110D Metal Series
Casio first released the Casioak in 2019 it sent watch collectors into a frenzy! Now, Casio just released the Casio G-Shock G-Steel-GM-2110D Metal Series
SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie. Debuts Entry-Level Chronograph with Massena Lab
Continuing with affordable complications, H. Moser & Cie.’s latest is the Endeavour Chronograph Compax, a collaboration with Massena Lab. The most affordable Moser chronograph, the new Endeavour is powered by an in-house calibre with an added chronograph module. Loosely based on Moser’s 1940s pocket watch chronographs, the Endeavour Chronograph has a “Compax” layout with twin registers, luminous Arabic numerals, and a historical Moser logo. Though the retro design is atypical for Moser, the dial and case are still in classic Moser style, with the dial sporting a “funky blue” gradient finish. Initial thoughts Vintage reissues are common but Moser does them sparingly, mostly sticking with its signature minimalist, contemporary designs. The Endeavour Chronograph is the brand’s first vintage-inspired release outside of its Heritage collection. The Endeavour Chronograph is executed well, and affordable for a Moser chronograph. It costs less than half the Streamliner chronograph that’s equipped with the innovative Agenhor calibre. Because of the entry-level pricing, h0wever, the Endeavour Chronograph is constrained in certain ways, most notably in terms of the movement. Though the base calibre is Moser’s in-house automatic, the chronograph comes via a Dubois-Depraz module. It’s still a competent technical solution, but not as sophisticated as an integrated chronograph (and an in-house integrated construction would not be CHF25,000). Vintage styling The Endeav...
Monochrome
First Look - Hamilton teams up with Engineered Garments, Presenting a 36mm Khaki Field Titanium
Hamilton is well known for its American military-inspired Khaki Field watches, which are among the best values in the business. Titanium variants are nothing new to the expansive series, but a collaboration with New York design house Engineered Garments brings a small(ish), all-titanium automatic that’s stripped to the essentials. It doesn’t reinvent the wheel or […]
Fratello
Fratello Talks: Humor In Watches
Welcome to this week’s episode of Fratello Talks. Watches are many different things - functional objects, fashion accessories, charming anachronistic timekeeping companions… The list goes on. But one thing they aren’t is funny. In the world of watches, the only thing more serious than the timepieces themselves is their prices. But does that mean there’s no […] Visit Fratello Talks: Humor In Watches to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Fears and Garrick Reunite for a Second Collaboration, with an Assist from Collective Horology
Anyone else have a watch that you look forward to seeing on the wrist of someone else? I think if you’ve been part of this community long enough, it’s almost a certainty. Invariably a friend or colleague will own something that you genuinely look forward to seeing – that watch you hope they will decide to bring to the regular meetup that always impresses. A watch that easily slides into that somewhat niche category for me is the Fears Garrick, a limited edition collaborative effort between the two British brands that first appeared in 2022. Asher Rapkin, a co-founder of Collective, is one of the lucky owners of this watch, and whenever I run into him, be it in Switzerland for a trade show or one of our Windup Watch Fairs, I always hope he’ll have picked this watch out of the box today. It’s just such a cool concept, and a watch that’s genuinely pretty rare, so an opportunity to see it in person is kind of a special thing. Well, the number of these watches out in the wild is about to increase just a little bit with today’s announcement of the Fears Garrick Salmon for Collective limited edition. Only five of these will be made, and as the name of the watch would suggest, this run is distinguished by a beautiful salmon dial, replacing the crisp white of the prior version. Other than that, it’s very much the same watch, which is a great thing in my opinion, as it fuses together the absolute best of two of the most interesting British watch brands. Those att...
Quill & Pad
ReLuxury & Barnes Pre-Loved Luxury Show in Paris 15-17 November 2024
The debut edition of the Reluxury & Barnes Pre-Loved Luxury Show in Paris is the first event of its kind dedicated to pre-loved and circular luxury and prestige products.
Quill & Pad
Tudor Black Bay 54 vs. Black Bay 58: a Calculated Downsize
Since 2018, the Black Bay 58 has been the star for Tudor. On the face of it, the Black Bay 54 (BB54) is just a smaller Black Bay variant with a few minor changes. Yet, taking a closer look you realise that the sum of small parts makes this very different from the Black Bay 58 (BB58) and Black Bay 41mm.
Worn & Wound
Industrial Design: Loosely Explained
It’s a hot, muggy Saturday afternoon, and as a parent you find yourself at a local splash pad for a 3-year-old’s birthday party with 37 other people. Most of them are adults you don’t know, or you do know but have definitely forgotten their names. After your kid finally sheds the shy cling to your leg and runs off to the water features with their buddies, you begrudgingly gravitate toward a few unidentified parents talking. Upon entering the circle, you present your name and state whose parent you are before an awkward silence falls, and you hear those words: “So, what do you do for work?” Because at this point it’s either that or the weather, and the circle has already covered the later topic one too many times. Work-it’s that inevitable question we’re all asked during those awkward, seemingly weekly toddler birthday parties. “I’m an Industrial Designer” isn’t the most glamorous or self-explanatory response. That’s ok though, because after a few back and forth questions and answers in the circle many start to realize how much around them is designed, considered, and produced to make our lives a bit better. But like all coins, there are always two sides to the story. Making more things is not necessarily the answer, but I believe making things that speak to us, move us, and change our lives even in the slightest is what makes good industrial design great. At its core, Industrial Design is the process of creating physical products for mass manufa...
SJX Watches
IWC Reveals Details of Ceramic Matrix Composite
Having made its debut with the Big Pilot AMG G 63 a year ago, ceramic matrix composite (CMC) is an innovative material currently unique to IWC in watchmaking. Little was disclosed about the material at launch, but IWC has just released additional detail on CMC. Notably, the material was developed in collaboration with the Deutsches Zentrum für Luft- und Raumfahrt (DLR), or German Aerospace Center, a national research institute specialising in aerospace, travel, energy, and even quantum computing. While novel materials are common in watchmaking, brands rarely reveal the origin of the materials, making this collaboration notable. Moreover, the DLR is a highly regarded, independent technical institute, which arguably gives CMC more credibility (and cachet) than most composites employed in watchmaking. Utilising a space-qualified like CMC in a watch tied to a high-performance SUV, however, seems to be a missed opportunity, though it’s a certainty IWC has plans for the the material. Blocks of CMC Staying true to size Fibre ceramic composites are a new class of materials, which combine the surface hardness of conventional ceramics with high tolerance to mechanical and thermal shocks. DLR’s previous work with ceramic composites revolved around making large components for aerospace applications, namely rockets or satellites. The institute was looking to adapt its short-fibre pressing technology for making smaller, near-net-shape parts – not unlike a watch case. Near-net-sha...
Worn & Wound
Yema and Alain Silberstein Collaborate on a New Limited Edition
Founded in 1948, Yema is an independent French watch manufacturer in Morteau, France, which as Yema reminds us, is “the birthplace of French watchmaking.” The third-generation Bôle family operates it alongside a team of watchmakers with over 40 years of experience. Over the years, they have gained a reputation for producing robust and dependable tool watches suitable for diving, car racing, and military expeditions. Yema has sought a new, more enthusiast focused clientele in recent years, particularly with their popular dive watches and the new Wristmaster line of integrated bracelet sports watches. To enhance this revival, they partnered with Alain Silberstein to create a special limited edition piece. Silberstein is an artistic watch designer with a background in interior architecture who grew to prominence with his eponymous brand in the 80s and 90s. His original designs were genre-defying and have now become his signature look. His style can be polarizing, frequently incorporating bright primary colors and geometric shapes in unexpected ways. The word “playful” gets thrown around a lot in the watch world, but it truly defines the Silberstein design language – they just have a way of making you smile. And that’s exactly what this new collaboration with Yema is designed to do. It is a 40mm dual crown dive watch in Black DLC Grade 5 Titanium with micro-blasted finish. The Yema x Alain Silberstein Marine features a crown at 4 o’clock for time setting and win...
Quill & Pad
Why I’m All About That Case, That Case . . .
Can you recall the last time that you read a review of a newly introduced watch and the first few paragraphs of the article were about the case? Yeah – thought not. So here it goes: let's talk about cases.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch with White Lacquer Dial
In late 2023, a then-unknown Moonwatch with a white dial was seen on the wrist of actor Daniel Craig. The mysterious watch turned out to be the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch with a “lacquered white dial” that was officially unveiled in March 2024. Notably, it was released a regular production, instead of limited edition. An iconic design, the Omega Speedmaster Professional is best known as the Moonwatch with the classic black dial. The model’s relative ubiquity – the Speedmaster has been in production for nearly seven decades – makes dial variants compelling (but also numerous, often as limited editions) as a refreshing alternative to the quintessential black dial. Initial Impressions The subject of significant attention on social media when it first emerged on Mr Craig’s wrist, the new Moonwatch is a surprising release that goes beyond a cosmetic tweak of dial colour. It sports tangible differences to the dial furnishing that provide a sense of refinement over the regular black dial, namely the lacquered finishing and applied indices. And even though the dial is recognisably different, and arguably improved in terms of details, it retains the signature elements of the classic Moonwatch, including the stepped construction. Beyond that, the rest of the watch is identical to the standard Moonwatch with black dial, which isn’t a bad thing because the “standard” model is now in its latest generation. The classic Moonwatch was revamped in 2021 with subtle yet pe...
Fratello
Treasure Hunting: Finding An Old Art Deco Oris Watch In A Suitcase
The allure of searching vintage and antique shops is strong for me. There is something about the appreciation for things from the past that resonates. Recently, on a trip to one such shop, I discovered a vintage Oris watch in an old suitcase. I saw it glistening inside the morass of trinkets and discarded objects […] Visit Treasure Hunting: Finding An Old Art Deco Oris Watch In A Suitcase to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
Heavy Metal: Great (and Not So Great) Watch Bracelets
If cases get too little attention from watch collectors, GaryG feels that the straps and bracelets that turn a timepiece into a wristwatch seem to get even less. And of late, especially with the controversy surrounding the introduction of the “integrated” bracelet of A. Lange & Söhne’s Odysseus, he has been pondering metal watch bracelets and what makes them so special.
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Speedmaster FOiS Gen. 1 Vs. FOiS Gen. 2
It’s Sunday morning, and you all know what that means. Yes, it’s time for a cup of coffee and another installment of Sunday Morning Showdown! This week’s battle is all about the First Omega in Space. The big question is: which one do you like better? Jorg will make a case for the first-generation Speedmaster […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Speedmaster FOiS Gen. 1 Vs. FOiS Gen. 2 to read the full article.
Deployant
New: Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XP Time For Art
In the realm of luxury timepieces, the Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XP Time For Art represents the brand's commitment to horological excellence and design innovation. This piece unique timepiece continues Chopard's tradition of reinterpreting the St. Moritz, their original integrated sports watch, with a contemporary and sophisticated flair.
Monochrome
Video Review - Tissot’s PRX Powermatic 80 Goes Exotic With A Forged Carbon Case And Dial
With the PRX collection, Tissot has found a proverbial sweet spot between style, mechanics and affordability. At the height of the boom of luxury sports watches, in comes Tissot with the PRX, offering tremendous value for money! In just a couple of short years, Tissot has made the PRX the hottest-selling watch in its collection, […]
Worn & Wound
A New, Smaller, and Even More Advanced Dive Watch from SēL
Arizona’s SēL Instruments have been making, literally, bomb proof watches since 2017. The term overengineered is often thrown around in watchmaking, but no other brand quite embodies this term the way SēL Instruments does. Not only do they engineer their watches from scratch, but they also engineer the equipment to make them, as well as the tools to test them. They even reinvented the watch bracelet with an ingenious clasp system called the Wavlock. According to the brand, their watches appeal to many in the armed forces, police, EMTs, or anyone that lives and works in the harshest environments on earth. You can tell these watches were made by someone that never skips leg days, though just like Adrew McLean’s oversize quads, these watches have always been quite large. That is, until now. Introducing the new OmniDiver Xos 42, a smaller, much more wearable version of their signature OmniDiver. That said, they did not just shrink it. Their focus is on a trifecta feature set for extreme environmental protection in a smaller 42mm case: impact resistance, water resistance, and magnetic resistance. The original OmniDiver has a water-resistance rating of 6,100 meters, but the new Xos 42 is still no slouch at 2,000 meters. What is even more impressive is that the new one is only 13.7mm thick. To make that happen, they needed to add new Teflon bearings to their already incredibly good ball-bearing bezel bezel assembly. They needed to strengthen their screw-down crown and inv...
Fratello
Fratello’s Top 5 Modern Speedmasters With Straight Lugs
Another Friday, another list! Last week, we explored five of the many vintage Tudor options out there. For this week, we decided to dip our toes into the extensive world of Omega Speedmasters. Of course, we have our series of Speedy Tuesday articles to explain everything there is to know about the famous chronograph. But […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Modern Speedmasters With Straight Lugs to read the full article.
Deployant
New: Bell & Ross BR-X5 Iridescent
Introducing the next iteration of the Bell & Ross BR-X5 collection with the new Iridescent. A very unusual looking watch which may be just your cup of tea. Press Release information with commentary in italics. New: Bell & Ross BR-X5 Iridescent The Bell & Ross BR-X5 Iridescent retails at SGD 11,500 in rubber strap andRead More
Deployant
New: Hermès Horloger - Slim d’Hermès Flagship
Hermès recently released their latest Slim d’Hermès Flagship watch in yellow gold. The watch is only available to 12 lucky owners.
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Marks 20 Years of Patrimony with Ora ïto Edition
Vacheron Constantin is marking the 20th anniversary of its vintage-inspired line of dress watches with a limited edition conceived by French designer Ora Ito (whose studio is known as Ora ïto). The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Self-Winding Ora ïto is all about “Simplexity”, Mr Ito’s preferred design philosophy: a simple appearance that belies complexity. Although the Patrimony looks like a simple, conventional model at first glance, the dial incorporates additional details visible only upon close inspection, such as the wave-like concentric pattern that decorate its surface. Initial thoughts Vacheron Constantin is considered one of the “Holy Trinity” in Swiss watchmaking, and the Patrimony Ora ïto demonstrates why. It is a simple watch, showing just the time and date, yet presented with an intricately detailed dial and excellent in-house movement. Moreover, the Patrimony Self-Winding model is based on the ref. 6187 of 1957 but the design still feels current and avoids seeming like a vintage remake. The Patrimony Ora ïto costs US$35,300, which is fair value all things considered. It’s a small run of 100 watches with an appealing, unique dial design and it retails for less than a regular production Patek Philippe Calatrava. Simplexity The intricately patterned dial is gilded brass and stamped with a concentric patterns that’s meant to evoke ripples on the water. The pattern starts at the centre and continues to the periphery, with a subtle break to form th...
Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: In Conversation With Max Büsser Of MB&F;
Büsser reflects on his time at Jaeger-LeCoultre, (almost) 20 years of MB&F;, and the recent investment by Chanel.
Quill & Pad
What Being a Watch Collector Means to Me
Do you consider yourself a collector? For years GaryG resisted the label, however, he slowly tipped over into having, for lack of a better term, a watch collection. Here Gary shares what collecting means to him.
SJX Watches
Auction: Space-Flown Watches From a Rolex GMT-Master to Omega Speedmasters
Ahead of the international watch auction season that kicks off in a few weeks, Boston-based RR Auction has opened an online auction that will interest those hunting especially rare, space-flown watches. Simply titled Space, the auction is focused primarily on space memorabilia, and includes three space-flown wristwatches that warrant a closer look, including a French astronaut’s Speedmaster that spent almost six hours in space. Known for its sales focused on historical memorabilia, particularly those relating to space exploration, RR Auction has notched up several notable watch sales in the past, including a Bulova chronograph worn on the Moon that sold for almost US$1.6 million in 2015. We round up highlights from the upcoming sale, which closes October 24, 2024. The catalogue and bidding are available online. Lot 6286 – Rolex GMT-Master II flown on Apollo 14 by Edgar Mitchell First up is the Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 1675 worn by astronaut Edgar Mitchell on the Apollo 14 mission that landed on the Moon in February 1971. Enhancing its appeal, the watch has tangible provenance: actually be seen in archival footage recording prior to take-off and in onboard footage taken during the mission. While the GMT-Master II was not uncommon among astronauts of that period – it was conceived as a watch for pilots after all – few actually made it to space. This example is only the second lunar Rolex to be sold publicly, after Ron Evans’s GMT-Master II worn on Apollo 17, whic...
Worn & Wound
What to Watch for at Windup Watch Fair NYC 2024
Whenever and wherever a bunch of enthusiasts get together to talk about their passion, it’s sure to be a good time. But the Windup Watch Fair is different. Windup always feels like a seminal moment for our little corner of the watch world-which, let’s face it, isn’t so little anymore. Enthusiasts have become an absolutely critical audience to watch brands from around the world. It’s the enthusiasts who adopt early. It’s the enthusiasts who spread the news. It’s the enthusiasts who set the trends. And the over 130 brands who are flocking to Windup NYC in just a couple of weeks know it. Thank YOU for making Windup what it is today-the largest and most important watch enthusiast event in the world, taking place at: Center415 on 5th Avenue between 37th and 38th Streets (415 Fifth Ave) Friday, October 18: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, October 19: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, October 20: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to the public No registration necessary This year, Windup NYC will not disappoint. First and foremost, Windup NYC has a new home. Nestled right on iconic 5th Ave in Manhattan, between 37th and 38th, is Center415. It’s a massive multi-floor venue that, for three days, will be the home to over 130 watch and EDC brands from 16 different countries around the world. This event is anchored by five Lead Sponsors who are planning some great product stories to tell, namely: Bulova, Christopher Ward, Fortis, Oris, and Shinola. Here’s a quick rundown of what to watch for at ...