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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

Profile: Hannelore Lass, Watchmaker and Engraver SJX Watches
Sinn Sep 5, 2023

Profile: Hannelore Lass, Watchmaker and Engraver

German-born Hannelore Lass has mastered the art of engraving, but she is also a trained watchmaker. Together with her husband, independent watchmaker Christian Lass, they live with their two children on the idyllic Danish island of Fyn, a two hour’s drive west of Copenhagen. It is there that they created the 30CP, the time-only wristwatch that marked the debut of the Christian Lass brand. Hannelore’s career meandered through European watchmaking before landing her on Fyn. Having started her career at Sinn, the German brand best known for its “tool” watches, she would go on to become the in-house engraver for Vianney Halter, followed by a stint as a freelancer working with BNB Concept, before moving to Denmark with her husband to establish his eponymous brand. The burin as a watchmaking tool Crafts that concern the smallest of parts have always had a particular impact on Hannelore; the interaction of the hands with the very small was something that gave her extreme pleasure. So having finished high school, Hannelore considered watchmaking as a possible career. Living near Frankfurt at the time, she visit the Sinn, which is located in the city. It was during this visit that Hannelore experienced one of the defining moments of her life. “During the tour, we were shown a gigantic cupboard brimming with small boxes full of minuscule parts,” says Hannelore, “That’s when I knew what I wanted to do!” Image – Hannelore Lass The experience led her to send an app...

H. Moser Collaborates with MB&F; for Only Watch Stunner Pandamonium Streamliner Worn & Wound
H. Moser Collaborates Sep 5, 2023

H. Moser Collaborates with MB&F; for Only Watch Stunner Pandamonium Streamliner

Earlier this summer, Only Watch revealed their 2023 collection of watches set to be auctioned later this year in Geneva to raise funds for research on Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy and neuromuscular diseases. Participating brands from across the industry create unique, on-off watches (or clocks), some of which you can read about right here, and a few even took the opportunity to collaborate. While most of the watches were revealed, a few brands play things a little closer to the vest. One such collaboration was revealed this week during Geneva Watch Days, with Maximilian Büsser and Edouard Meylan introducing the H. Moser x MB&F; Streamliner Pandamonium.  These two brands have a history working together, and tout a creative relationship that has given us co-signed watches in the past within MB&F;’s Legacy Machine collection, and H. Moser’s Endeavour collection. Their latest effort builds on themes we’ve seen them explore in the past, done in entirely new ways, within the H. Moser Streamliner. The watch is called the Streamliner Pandamonium, and it features a unique, one-off movement that sets a minute repeater around MB&F;’s flying buttress, with the hammers of the chiming mechanism being ‘operated’ by a small, hand-crafted panda DJ figure. You can also get a read on the time via the hands set around the 2 o’clock position, similar to the execution on the LM101 done with H. Moser. The case is rendered in steel for its resonating qualities, and is sized at 42mm in...

Last Chance! Labor Day Sales End Tonight Worn & Wound
Sep 4, 2023

Last Chance! Labor Day Sales End Tonight

We know you’re out there having a blast on this long holiday weekend, but don’t forget our Labor Day Sale ends tonight at midnight. We’ve got some amazing deals this year including 10-25% off select watches and so many gifts with purchases. Need help deciding? Don’t forget we also have a new consultation service offering you a chance to work one on one with one of our staff to help you pick the perfect watch or accessory. Head here to see all of our sales befroe they’re official gone and we’ll highlight some of our favorite sales of the weekend below! We know you’re out there having a blast on this long holiday weekend, but don’t forget our Labor Day Sale ends tonight at midnight. We’ve got some amazing deals this year including 10-25% off select watches and so many gifts with purchases. Need help deciding? Don’t forget we also have a new consultation service offering you a chance to work one on one with one of our staff to help you pick the perfect watch or accessory. Head here to see all of our sales befroe they’re official gone and we’ll highlight some of our favorite sales of the weekend below! The post Last Chance! Labor Day Sales End Tonight appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II (RRCC II): Despite Looking Similar to its Predecessor, Everything is New Quill & Pad
Rexhep Rexhepi Sep 3, 2023

Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II (RRCC II): Despite Looking Similar to its Predecessor, Everything is New

The classic design of the Akrivia RRCC II’s dial has roots in founder Rexhep Rexhepi’s vision of high-quality nineteenth-century pocket watch dials adorned with high-fire enamel and combined with a modern twist based on “sector” dials of the 1930s and '40s. But there's much more to this brand-new watch than that as Elizabeth Doerr explains.

Why I Bought It: Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Black Matte Ceramic – Reprise Quill & Pad
Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Black Matte Sep 2, 2023

Why I Bought It: Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Black Matte Ceramic – Reprise

The first time Bhanu Chopra strapped a borrowed BR 03-92 Black Matte Ceramic on his wrist, he thought that it was the perfect Bell & Ross watch for him, checking all the boxes for the characteristics he expected from an aviation-style instrument watch. He bought one and it has been part of his core pilot’s watch collection ever since. This is why.

[Hands-On] De Bethune Goes All Blue (Again) with New Kind of Blue DB28XP Worn & Wound
De Bethune Goes All Blue Again Sep 1, 2023

[Hands-On] De Bethune Goes All Blue (Again) with New Kind of Blue DB28XP

De Bethune is returning to their Kind of Blue concept within a new frame that combines the best of the DB28XP and the DB28 Kind of Blue to create the, you guessed it, DB28XP Kind of Blue. The new watch is trimmer than ever, and bluer than ever (insert Tobias joke here), and leans into the absolute best of DeBethune’s design language. It’s a smaller, thinner watch, but there’s still plenty of visual impact thanks to the wide frame that the lugs define. And as complex is it may look at a glance, at its core, there’s a very straightforward watch here.  The case and dial are made of thermally blued titanium with “microlight” pattern finish, and the result is stunning under any amount of light. It shifts between blue hues that pick up notes of purple at certain angles, and the finish creases a near liquid-metal appearance. All of this applied to the shapes and structures that De Bethune uses with the DB28 create an incredibly dramatic presence that will have you staring at the watch without a moment’s thought of the time. There are a set of hands reading off the hour and the minutes, but they feel secondary to the rest of the experience of this watch. De Bethune is using the thin, hand wound DB2115v12 movement with their own balance wheel, which is visible at the bottom of the dial, under the arch-like structure. The XP in the name denotes that this is an extra thin (plat) watch, and indeed it stands at just 8.5mm in thickness, but this isn’t a watch about the ...

A Flipper’s Journey Worn & Wound
Aug 31, 2023

A Flipper’s Journey

Since the article on my 50th birthday watch was published, I have been asked multiple times how I got into flipping watches. To best understand this, you must better understand me. I am an only child of a mother who was the youngest of 10 children and a father who was the youngest of 4. Both were born in the depression (1935 and 1929) and lived through WWII with siblings having fought in that war.  My mother’s family was from Quebec City, and they lived in a rural area outside the city, with very little creature comforts. My father was from Montreal and fared a little better, having grown up in a middle-class family setting. However, times were hard, and both learned how to stretch a dollar and loathed excessive spending.  I on the other hand grew up in Montreal in a comfortable middle-class neighborhood. While we never really struggled for anything, I was still brought up as if we could not afford much. So, if I wanted something, I had to get creative. I quickly realized that if I wanted a toy that I did not have, I could trade something I did have to get what I wanted. I did this with Star Wars toys, GI Joe, Transformers and later on with comic books and Atari games.  The author, with an unknown gift and watch on wrist, Christmas 1978 I remember when Walkman portable cassette players were super popular, my mother managed to finagle one using her Club Z points from Zellers. This was the equivalent of K-Mart in Canada and Club Z was the original loyalty plan. It was s...

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Shinola Aug 31, 2023

[VIDEO] Watch Shinola’s Latest Video on Timeless American Design

Join us in celebrating a major milestone in design and American manufacturing-10 years of Shinola Detroit. To commemorate this landmark year, Shinola has created a new video that presents the company and its employees as a team that can carve a distinct pathway forward with their own sense of, as they say, “timeless American design.” This anthemic video gives an insider glimpse of their watchmakers assembling timepieces, soaring views of the Detroit headquarters, and shares perspective on the past decade as well as Shinola’s aims for the future. Click here to experience Timeless American Design by Shinola.  Don’t forget to check out a specially curated selection of Shinola’s watches and fine goods at Windup Watch Fair NYC on October 20-22 at The Altman Building, located at 135 W 18th St, New York, NY. The post [VIDEO] Watch Shinola’s Latest Video on Timeless American Design appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Opinion: Selling Points that Don’t Sell Me Part II – Deal Breakers, Pet Peeves, and Collecting Authentically Worn & Wound
Urwerk s Aug 30, 2023

Opinion: Selling Points that Don’t Sell Me Part II – Deal Breakers, Pet Peeves, and Collecting Authentically

What makes watches so expensive? It’s a question enthusiasts ask themselves at the beginning of their horological journeys, and later on, a question we find ourselves answering from curious friends and family. The answer comes down to options. Not all watches are powered by in-house movements, but some are. And if that’s what you’re into, companies will ask you to chip in for the research and development required to develop a new caliber. Likewise, not all watches go through extra testing to confirm accuracy to a few seconds per day. But if that level of reliability is a priority for you, plenty of brands are willing to provide that service for a fee. With enough rationalizing, it’s easy to see how even six digit price tags offer fair value. On the other end of the spectrum, if those options that increase MSRP don’t excite you, then maybe a one watch collection of a single $15 Casio F91W makes the most sense…but where’s the fun in that? For most of us, myself included, the sweet spot lies somewhere between the Casios and the Urwerks of the world. In the previous installment of Selling Point that Don’t Sell Me I explored what options excite me on my personal quest for quality on a budget. But enjoying watches at modest price points doesn’t mean I can’t still be picky. And so, for this installment of Selling Points that Don’t Sell Me, I’ve compiled my personal list of deal breakers and pet peeves. This list is less focused on keeping costs low, and mo...

Seiko Makes It Hard To Choose Favorites With Their New Addition of Seiko 5 GMTs Worn & Wound
Seiko Makes It Hard Aug 29, 2023

Seiko Makes It Hard To Choose Favorites With Their New Addition of Seiko 5 GMTs

A few months back, Seiko made a big splash in the watch scene with their sub-$500 GMT watch. With their own GMT movement inside and a design based on the iconic SKX case, they had an instant hit on their hands. We’re happy to offer their two latest dial colors: a dark charcoal grey and a bright and cheerful yellow. Read on to find out more about these two new Seikos that just landed at the Windup Watch Shop. A few months back, Seiko made a big splash in the watch scene with their sub-$500 GMT watch. With their own GMT movement inside and a design based on the iconic SKX case, they had an instant hit on their hands. We’re happy to offer their two latest dial colors: a dark charcoal grey and a bright and cheerful yellow. Read on to find out more about these two new Seikos that just landed at the Windup Watch Shop. The post Seiko Makes It Hard To Choose Favorites With Their New Addition of Seiko 5 GMTs appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Clockmaker Jacob Curtis Debuts a Hand-Made Regulator SJX Watches
Patek Philippe but there Aug 29, 2023

Clockmaker Jacob Curtis Debuts a Hand-Made Regulator

American clockmaker Jacob Curtis recently completed Regulator Clock No. 2, a precision wall clock that is eminently traditional in style, make, and materials. Based in Staunton, Virginia, the 33-year-old graduated from the Lititz Watch Technicum in 2017 and now runs his own watch and clock repair workshop. Built as a commission from a client, Regulator Clock No. 2 is the first of a pair of clocks, with the second of the pair, No. 3, currently a work in progress. The clocks are actually descended from the school clock Mr Curtis completed during watchmaking school (pictured above), but the basis of his creations lies further back in history. The dial of the recently-finished No. 2 Mr Curtis took inspiration from the precision regulator clocks made in Germany during the late 19th- and early 20th centuries by firms like Strasser & Rohde and Riefler. Considered amongst the finest clocks of the genre, these regulator clocks were refined by fuss-free aesthetics and extremely high quality mechanics, characteristics that Mr Curtis sought to recreate with his own clocks. Initial thoughts Clocks don’t have the same popular appeal as watches, so clockmaking remains a niche subject, despite the faddish popularity of watches. Established brands ranging from Chanel to Patek Philippe, but there the brand arguably matters as much as the timepiece. On the other hand, independent clockmakers are less known but some do impressively fine work. Although I only have photos to go on, Mr Curtis...

Maurice Lacroix Takes their Urban Tribe Design to a New Level with a Limited Skeleton Version Worn & Wound
Maurice Lacroix Takes their Urban Tribe Aug 25, 2023

Maurice Lacroix Takes their Urban Tribe Design to a New Level with a Limited Skeleton Version

One of my favorite things about working in the watch industry is the capacity this strange little world still has to surprise. Just when you think you’ve seen everything, you’re reminded that you most definitely have not, and in fact you might just be scratching the surface. I love getting press releases about watches I don’t expect, particularly when they come from brands that I thought I knew and understood. Enter: Maurice Lacroix. If you know Maurice Lacroix at all, you probably know them as the brand behind the Aikon, an integrated bracelet sports watch that bears a certain resemblance to another much more sought after and much more expensive watch with a similar footprint. The Aikon, though, has proven to be a worthy blank canvas for many of Maurice Lacroix’s most interesting ideas over the years, and a new version, an update of a design first seen in 2021, takes that to a new level.  The Aikon Urban Tribe Skeleton is lie no other Aikon before it, except the Aikon Urban Tribe, which featured a similar series of engravings along the case walls and throughout the bracelet. The Urban Tribe’s calling card (for both the 2021 version and this new reference) is the elaborate case engraving. It’s unusual enough to see a well known Swiss brand dabble in engraved cases to begin with, and it’s even more unusual for those engravings to seemingly live in the world of tribal tattoos and similar motifs. But that’s not all – these designs are inspired by urban arch...

Louis Erard Debuts an Art Deco Collaboration SJX Watches
Louis Erard Debuts Aug 25, 2023

Louis Erard Debuts an Art Deco Collaboration

Louis Erard gained a cult following collaborations with partners ranging from independent watchmakers to industrial designers. Now, the brand has teamed up with Switzerland-based watch influencer Amr Sindi, better known by his Instagram handle The Horophile. Their project, the Le Petite Seconde Metropolis, draws direct inspiration from Art Deco with its clean, distinctive dial. Initial thoughts Following their recent collaboration at Raketa, it comes as no surprise that Louis Erard chief Manuel Emch (who’s also helping run Raketa) and Mr Sindi have once again united their creative forces. While deviating from the contemporary design accented by Mr Sindi’s trademark purple that characterised his past creations, the trio of timepieces represent a unique interpretation of 1920s style.  The watches evoke the era without being remakes of 1920s watches. They are distinctive yet unbranded, enabling the design to be conveyed clearly. Aside from the Art Deco hour numerals, there is absolutely no text on the dial whatsoever. In my view, this exemplifies how watch brands should design a retro watch, rather than simply generating a remake based on archives. While the dial is new, the rest of the watch is identical to the regular production model. That means a relatively thick case, which is the only major shortcoming of the design. The Le Petite Seconde Metropolis is priced at US$2,900, which is roughly in the same price range as the standard version of the model. Although the pr...

eBay Finds: Vintage Omegas, Surprising Chronographs, & More Worn & Wound
Longines Aug 24, 2023

eBay Finds: Vintage Omegas, Surprising Chronographs, & More

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Jubilee Skin Diver First up this week is a nice vintage Jubilee diver. Interesting factoid, Jubilee watches were made by Wittnauer/Longines. So while Jubilee may seem like a “no-name” brand, they are in fact a quality watch that was made for a lower price-point market. This Jubilee diver is a nice size, with a stainless steel case that comes in at just under 38mm wide. The case looks to be in good shape and seems unpolished. The black dial has nice patina on the lume, with big baton style hands and a date window at 3 o’clock. The crown looks original, and has an unusual marking of “100% W-P”, which I’ve never seen before and is kind of a cool feature. Seller states the 17 jewel manual wind movement runs well. Great vintage diver that should end up reasonably priced. View auction here. Meister-Anker Chronograph Here’s another vintage gem that should be an affordable one. What this vintage Meister-Anker chronograph lacks in name recognition it makes up for in style. The unusually shaped and quite 1970’s style case is chrome plated with a steel back, but the case is in great shape with no pitting and a nice brushed finish, and hidden lugs. The black dial is superb...