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Results for Above the Date Window

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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen’s Monaco and What Sotheby’s Catalogues Really Tell You

Steve McQueen’s Le Mans Heuer Monaco 1133B crossed Sotheby’s block. The above-the-date-window detail collectors spotted, the hammer price, why it matters.

L’Epée 1839 Unveils Racing Car Clock with Built-In Cigar Lighter SJX Watches
Chanel Aug 22, 2024

L’Epée 1839 Unveils Racing Car Clock with Built-In Cigar Lighter

Only recently taken over by LVMH, L’Epée 1839 is celebrating its 185th anniversary with the T35, a clock shaped like a 1920s racing car, specifically the acclaimed Bugatti Type 35, which set several records and won numerous Grand Prix. But the T35 is more than a clock – the removable engine block is actually a cigar lighter. Initial thoughts L’Epée 1839 is known for both its own clocks and the many collaborations with brands like MB&F; or Chanel. Although they are actual time-telling devices, L’Epée’s creations are usually elaborate kinetic sculptures which also happen to be built around clockwork. This is the case with the T35 as well. In itself the movement is not very advanced, but the T35 is more of an interactive kinetic sculpture rather than a serious chronometer. Bringing to mind the New York taxi clock made for Tiffany & Co., the T35 is a desktop timekeeper with clever details that allow the owner to interact with, like turning the steering wheel to set the time. The built-in lighter feels kitschy on its face, but is actually a logical and useful addition to the clock given the context. Such a clock will inevitably sit on a desk or coffee table, and cigars are a probable vice for many of the potential owners. A racing machine The T35 takes the shape of a classic racing car with aluminium bodywork on a steel chassis. The bodywork is available in classical racing colours: French racing blue, British racing green, Obsidian black, and Rosso Corsa. The elo...

Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium Announced As A Non-Limited Edition Two Broke Watch Snobs
Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium Aug 22, 2024

Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium Announced As A Non-Limited Edition

Earlier this month, Longines debuted a new non-limited version of their popular Spirit Zulu Time in Titanium. Back when the brand partnered with Hodinkee for an exclusive limited edition, folks were a bit critical of the fact that the watch seemed strikingly similar to the Tudor Black Bay Pro, a point of criticism that didn't really concern me. It was a handsome watch, in my opinion but I wasn't a fan of the FOMO associated with the limited edition. Thankfully, if you were a fan of the idea behind the watch, you now have an option to pick up a model that arguably looks a little more refined - with features like a grade 5 titanium case and bracelet and a "true" GMT movement.

Business News: Chanel Takes 25% Stake in MB&F; SJX Watches
F.P. Journe believed Aug 22, 2024

Business News: Chanel Takes 25% Stake in MB&F;

Proving recent rumours to be true, MB&F; has just announced that Chanel now owns 25% of the company. The terms of the deal were not disclosed but it is likely that the valuation of the independent watchmaker not far from the CHF120 million mark. Though meaningful in the context of independent watchmaker, it is a small investment for Chanel, which had 2023 revenues of almost US$20 billion. MB&F; will continue to be controlled by founder Maximilian Büsser (above left), who pares his stake down to 60% stake, while his longtime deputy, Serge Kriknoff, continues with a 15% share in the brand best known for its sculptural, sci-fi creations. The pair were the only shareholders in the brand prior to the Chanel investment. The MB&F; HM11 A major player behind the scenes With its MB&F; investment, Chanel continues to grow its presence in watchmaking, particularly independent watchmaking. The stake in MB&F; follows on Chanel’s investment in F.P. Journe (believed to be about a quarter), and about a half share in Romain Gauthier. Chanel has also long owned a substantial stake in Bell & Ross, as well as a quarter of movement maker Kenissi. Add to those Chanel’s holdings in the watchmaking supply chain, and the result is a luxury group that has a substantial and growing player in watchmaking. Chanel’s watch and jewellery chief, Frédéric Grangié, said the investment in MB&F; “is part of our long-term strategy to continue to preserve, develop and invest in specialist know-how and...

Up Close: Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT005 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT005 Aug 22, 2024

Up Close: Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT005

Following the 2022 debut of its first ever tourbillon – and the brand’s most complicated watch ever – Grand Seiko follows up this year with the Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT005 “Daybreak”. Mechanically identical to its predecessor (the SLGT003), the new Kodo still boasts a co-axial tourbillon and remontoir, a novel construction unique to the Kodo. But the Kodo SLGT005 is dressed in brighter colours of silver tones and pale greys, hence the “Daybreak” nickname. The result is a watch that’s less aggressively technical in style, but just as complicated. And thanks to its lighter palette, the technicality and decoration of the movement are arguably more prominent in the Kodo “Daybreak”. Initial thoughts The Kodo in its original form had a strikingly skeletonised appearance that maximised the view of its intricate mechanics, giving something of an anime sci-fi aesthetic. This was accentuated by the dark colours highlighted with vivid, dark red rubies. The new version, on the other hand, is both lighter in colour and visual weight. Because there’s less colour contrast in the movement, it appears a bit more classical and less stylised. A clever touch are the blue jewels to replace the conventional red ruby bearings, which enhances the “daylight” theme. The original Kodo SLGT003 from 2022 Even though it looks different, the Kodo SLGT005 is identical in technical terms. So it still has the impressively constructed movement with a novel approach to t...

Unimatic Watches Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Unimatic Watches Guide Like so Aug 21, 2024

Unimatic Watches Guide

Like so many of the modern breed of start-up, independent watchmaking companies, Unimatic traces its origin to a pair of friends with a shared passion for timepieces and an entrepreneurial spirit. Giovanni Moro and Simone Nunziato met as industrial design students at Politecnico di Milano, Italy’s largest technical university. Moro’s father had been a watch collector, and after designing his first watch as a lark while working at a furniture company, Moro connected with Nunziato to collaborate on the watch that became the Modello Uno U1-A, which launched in 2015 and essentially became the foundation of the Unimatic brand, its name a portmanteau of the Latin “unico” for unique, and “matic,” for willing or able. The Unimatic U1-A from 2015 The U1-A, which quickly sold out, was a classical dive watch with a 40mm round case, a flat, black dial; simple shaped indexes; a black bezel insert with a 60-minute scale and a lumed dot; and a Seiko movement. Its follow-up, the U1-B, was even more streamlined, dropping the minute scale from the bezel. Both the original models set the parameters for every one that followed: each Unimatic watch is pressure-tested to 300 meters of water resistance and designed and cased in Italy; each watch is individually numbered, and the design ethos driving them all is a function-forward, tool-oriented aesthetic. Today, Unimatic watches comprise dozens of models and include not only the divers that brought the brand to the table but also fie...

Comparing Green-Bezel, Black-Dial Subs: 16610LV “Kermit” Vs. 126610LV “Starbucks” Fratello
Rolex surprised us all when Aug 21, 2024

Comparing Green-Bezel, Black-Dial Subs: 16610LV “Kermit” Vs. 126610LV “Starbucks”

Rolex surprised us all when the brand launched a Submariner with a green bezel in 2003. The stainless steel Sub was steadily monochromatic during the five preceding decades, so this was a bit of a shocker. The model was soon nicknamed “Kermit.” More than two decades later, it seems green is here to stay. We […] Visit Comparing Green-Bezel, Black-Dial Subs: 16610LV “Kermit” Vs. 126610LV “Starbucks” to read the full article.

Our Favorite Pilot And Aviation Style Watches Under For $5,000 Worn & Wound
Aug 20, 2024

Our Favorite Pilot And Aviation Style Watches Under For $5,000

Pilot-style watches represent one of the most popular segments within the industry. Introduced at the dawn of aviation in the early twentieth century, pilot’s watches are the original tool watches. They range from simple, time-only designs to complication-filled behemoths with altimeters and slide rules. From heritage-inspired reissues to cutting-edge technology, there’s a pilot watch to suit every style and budget. They inspire a sense of adventure into the unknown, their function-over-form nature, and often rugged good looks, making them ideal for daily wear. Without further ado, here are fifteen of our favorite pilot-style watches under $5,000. The post Our Favorite Pilot And Aviation Style Watches Under For $5,000 appeared first on Worn & Wound.

In Depth: Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time Ref. 5326G SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time Aug 20, 2024

In Depth: Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time Ref. 5326G

The Annual Calendar Travel Time Ref. 5326G is one of Patek Philippe’s most practical watches in the “Compilations” family because it combines two useful functions: a calendar that needs setting only once every four years along with a dual time zone display with double day-night indicators. Smartly constructed such that the calendar indicators move in sync with the local time hand, the ref. 5326G has a vintage-toned aesthetic on a smartly detailed dial, presented in an elaborately decorated case. All of that, however, is packaged with a hefty price tag. Initial thoughts Like its sibling the Calatrava ref. 5226G, the ref. 5326G captures Patek Philippe’s latest generation aesthetic, which is not just about design, but fancy execution of the dial and case. Compared to equivalent models from before, the ref. 5326G takes a more elaborate approach to the habillage, with the hobnailed case flanks being an example. It does, however, still feel like a Patek Philippe. Though it’s relatively large at 41 mm, the case is thin at just over 11 mm, giving the watch an elegant, if wide, profile. The ref. 5326G also stands out for having a movement from the 31-260 family of large calibres that represent the latest and greatest in self-winding Patek Philippe movements. In fact, it’s one of only five references with a 31-260 movement. The cal. 31-260 is unquestionably the most sophisticated of Patek Philippe’s automatic movements, and also the most appealing in terms of design wi...

Hands-On Video Review: Nomos Zürich World Time Midnight Blue Two Broke Watch Snobs
Nomos Zürich World Time Midnight Aug 19, 2024

Hands-On Video Review: Nomos Zürich World Time Midnight Blue

The Nomos Worldtimer is an interesting watch in the German Watchmaker’s catalog. It’s Nomos’ most complicated watch and their second most expensive, underneath the precious metal Lambda collection. The Zurich is called a worldtimer in name, but in reality it serves more as a GMT watch than a true worldtimer. Worldtimer’s tell time across time zones at a glance whereas the Zurich has the ability to advance the local time in 1hr increments while the sub-dial maintains 24-hr time in a set time zone. Nomos has made this watch for a long time. I found articles and blog posts referencing it going back to 2011. This is remarkable, on one hand, because it mean that Nomos’ has resisted the urge to build increasingly complicated watches and focused on truly honing their craft on the existing catalog.

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Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko US exclusives Aug 18, 2024

A Week in Watches Ep. 87 - TAG Heuer Actually Made a Cool Watch and More!

On episode 87 of A Week in Watches, we take a look at a couple of new releases and then talk a bit about the state of the watch industry. First up are some sexy new Grand Seiko US exclusives with Kirazuri dials. After, we have the newest offering from TAG Heuer x Hodinkee, which revives a very cool old complication. Lastly, Zach Weiss gives his two cents on all of the gloomy news about the watch industry and whether or not it should matter to enthusiasts. Next week, the Windup Watch Shop is celebrating National Aviation Week with a focus on pilot watches of all types. From traditional fliegers to modern ana-digis, very affordable quartz to aspirational chronos, simple designs to complex functions, there’s something for everyone. So head over to Windupwatchshop.com starting August 19th and embrace your inner aviator! The post A Week in Watches Ep. 87 – TAG Heuer Actually Made a Cool Watch and More! appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time VS. Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Gold/Green Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Gold/Green Aug 18, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time VS. Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Gold/Green

It’s Sunday morning, so it’s time for another Sunday Morning Showdown! So make yourself a nice cup of coffee and let our writers make their cases before you get to decide which of the two watches is your favorite pick. This week, it’s the battle of the luxury travel watches. Jorg will make a case […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time VS. Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Gold/Green to read the full article.

In Praise Of Anchovies: If You Don’t Already Love Them, You Just Haven’t Yet Discovered How Good They Can Be Quill & Pad
Aug 18, 2024

In Praise Of Anchovies: If You Don’t Already Love Them, You Just Haven’t Yet Discovered How Good They Can Be

For many people, anchovies are one of those foods to be avoided like the plague. But for Ken Gargett anchovies are not a love-it-or-hate it food. Rather, they are a love-it-or-you-have-not-discovered-how-good-they-can-be food. A lunch of a freshly baked loaf of hot, crusty bread smothered in good quality anchovies is just magic. Here he takes you on an aquatic journey through the culinary aspects of this small fish.

Stowa Verus GMT Chrono Black Forest Limited: A Dark, Minimalist Evolution Two Broke Watch Snobs
Stowa Aug 15, 2024

Stowa Verus GMT Chrono Black Forest Limited: A Dark, Minimalist Evolution

In a move that amplifies its modern interpretation of classic pilot's watches, Stowa has introduced the Verus GMT Chrono Black Forest Limited, a watch that builds on the design DNA of the 2021 Verus GMT Chrono. This time, the watch has been given a stealthy makeover with a matte black DLC-coated case that stays true to the brand's ethos, while adding a layer of sophistication that will undoubtedly appeal to collectors. But when Stowa says "limited" here, they really mean it. There are only 10 of these! Sheesh.

[VIDEO] Fun with Fortis at Windup Watch Fair Chicago Worn & Wound
Fortis Aug 15, 2024

[VIDEO] Fun with Fortis at Windup Watch Fair Chicago

Known for their deep expertise in making precision tool watches for pilots, professionals, and enthusiasts, Fortis has been a key fixture at the last several Windup Watch Fairs. Our media team was fortunate to capture some of the buzz surrounding the Fortis booth at the recent Windup Watch Fair in Chicago, along with some close-ups of some of their latest releases. Be sure to join Fortis at Center415 right on 5th Avenue in Manhattan on October 18th-20th as a Lead Sponsor of 2024’s Windup Watch Fair NYC! We can’t wait to see you there. The post [VIDEO] Fun with Fortis at Windup Watch Fair Chicago appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Nivada and Exquisite Timepieces Team Up for a Purple Toned Limited Edition Depthmaster Worn & Wound
Nivada Grenchen has just released their Aug 15, 2024

Nivada and Exquisite Timepieces Team Up for a Purple Toned Limited Edition Depthmaster

In its latest iteration of the Depthmaster, Swiss watch manufacturer Nivada Grenchen has just released their Purple Ghost limited edition. You may remember this model from last year’s review, but the new Purple Ghost has reimagined the classic diver of the past in a new colorway that’s as interesting as it is, frankly, cool. To begin with, we should mention that the Purple Ghost is a collaborative effort with Naples, Florida-based authorized retailer of some of the world’s most famous brands, Exquisite Timepieces. With its long relationship with Nivada Grenchen, this partnership highlights not only the best of both brands, but also the strengths of each – both separately and together. With Exquisite’s history in the luxury watch space and Nivada Grenchen’s 145 years in business, I’m sure each brand was able to compare notes and bring to market something that’s totally unique in the market today. So, enter the Purple Ghost. As with its previous iteration, you are going to get a lot of distinct personality from this watch. Before we get too far into what makes the Purple Ghost unique, we should take notes of the case. Ostensibly a cushion case, the oversized bezel adds a proportionality to this watch that belies its 39mm size. Like last year’s release of the Depthmaster, this LE comes with some funky Pac-Man-style numerical markings (don’t they kind of remind you of The Rugrats logo – in the best way possible?). Couple that with the vibrant purple Swiss...

#TBT One Decent Omega Speedmaster Ed White 105.003 For Me, Please! Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Ed White 105.003 Aug 15, 2024

#TBT One Decent Omega Speedmaster Ed White 105.003 For Me, Please!

Most of the time, I have my #TBT stories scheduled weeks, if not months, ahead. I’ve found it easier to follow the plan and not think way too long about what my weekly dose of vintage watch inspiration for you will be. But sometimes, the inspiration is so strong that I have to put my […] Visit #TBT One Decent Omega Speedmaster Ed White 105.003 For Me, Please! to read the full article.

Hands On: Chanel Monsieur Superleggera Intense Black Edition SJX Watches
Chanel Monsieur Superleggera Intense Black Aug 15, 2024

Hands On: Chanel Monsieur Superleggera Intense Black Edition

First conceived as an auto-racing inspired take on its jumping hour wristwatch, the Monsieur de Chanel Superleggera Intense Black Edition is the second iteration of the model. Retaining the same design as the original Monsieur Superleggera, the Intense Black Edition is powered by the Caliber 1, a thoughtfully constructed in-house movement. Italian for “super light”, Superleggera is named after the lightweight body-on-frame race cars of the 1930s, a reference to the ceramic-on-steel construction of the Monsieur case. Initial thoughts The original Chanel Monsieur was proof that “fashion” brands can create watches as good as, or better than, their traditional watchmaking counterparts. I liked it for the fact that the design of both the watch and the movement were cohesive, illustrating an attention to detail – right down to the shape of the balance wheel and typography – that most watch brands lack. The Marble Edition is a particular favourite. A sportier and slightly larger version of the original, the Monsieur Superleggera has a more designed aesthetic with the textured, open-worked dial and crown guards, but the design still remains cohesive. It has just the right amount of detail, including the applied retro “Superleggera” logo. Styling aside, the movement remains the same and excellent. Besides the unusual complications – jumping hours and retrograde minutes in a vertically symmetrically layout – the Caliber 1 has a distinctive construction that show...