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Louis Brandt

La Chaux-de-Fonds watchmaker who founded the firm that became Omega in 1848.

Louis Erard Introduces the Excellence Marqueterie SJX Watches
Louis Erard Introduces Mar 25, 2023

Louis Erard Introduces the Excellence Marqueterie

After several consecutive hit collaborations, Louis Erard debuts its first with a wood marquetry dial. Arguably its most ambitious release yet in terms of craftsmanship, the Excellence Marqueterie features a dial inlaid with tiny pieces of wood to form an M.C. Escher-like motif. For the dial, the brand tapped Bastien Chevalier, a Swiss artisan who specialises the art of creating designs and patterns out of intricately cut pieces of wood, although other materials like stone, silicon, straw, and even leather can be used for the technique. Initial thoughts In my view, most watchmakers tend to collaborate only as a last resort, when they’ve run out of ideas. What sets Louis Erard apart is its coherent strategy for collaborations. Whether created by industrial designer atelier oï, or a watchmaker like Vianney Halter, its collaboration editions are still recognisable as Louis Erard thanks to the use of the same steel case. And they are uniformly produced in small runs and priced below CHF4,000. The new Excellence Marqueterie continues this successful formula, bringing wood marquetry to the sub-US$10,000 category for the first time. While brands like anOrdain are doing something similar with affordably priced enamel dials that are designed for modern tastes, there’s never been a marquetry dial at this price point. Not only does the dial look good, it is impressively constructed from dozens of hand-made elements that require careful finishing. Despite the more complex dial...

Louis Erard’s New Limited Edition Takes Wood Dials to a New Extreme Worn & Wound
Louis Erard s New Limited Edition Mar 24, 2023

Louis Erard’s New Limited Edition Takes Wood Dials to a New Extreme

When you write about new watches everyday, it becomes harder and harder to be surprised. Most brands, for better or worse, design watches in an iterative way – new releases might be very, very nice, but truly fresh ideas are few and far between. But that just makes it even more gratifying when something genuinely different comes across the transom, as it did with this absolutely bonkers Louis Erard with a wood dial.  To start with, let’s concede that wood dials themselves are nothing new. Luxury brands have been making dials out of different types of wood for decades, with the trend reaching a peak in the 1970s and 80s. But this Louis Erard Excellence Marqueterie is unlike any other wood dial I’ve ever seen. It continues the Louis Erard trend of combining rare and traditional handcrafts with their unique, contemporary sensibility. Up to now, my favorite example of this idea was their work in the art of guilloche dial making, which took a craft that is undeniably difficult and special, but sometimes aesthetically a bit old fashioned, and made it feel extremely modern.  That first limited edition guilloche dial serves as design inspiration for this watch, made in the marquetry decorative tradition, which consists of inlaying many small pieces of precisely cut wood. Marquetry is most often used in furniture making – think table tops, the backs of chairs, and so forth. Here, miniature marquetry specialist Bastien Chevalier has produced a dial with an elaborate geomet...

Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air Quantum: “Lit” Non-Traditional High Watchmaking - Reprise Quill & Pad
Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air Mar 22, 2023

Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air Quantum: “Lit” Non-Traditional High Watchmaking - Reprise

The Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air Quantum continues the clever Spin Time Air concept while bringing two noticeable things to the table that weren’t there before: a slightly more toned-down Tambour case and micro-electronically lit luminous cubes. It shines in a very clever way as Elizabeth Doerr reports.

In Conversation with Michel Navas on Louis Vuitton’s New High Watchmaking Collection Atop Courchevel Revolution
Louis Vuitton s New High Watchmaking Mar 10, 2023

In Conversation with Michel Navas on Louis Vuitton’s New High Watchmaking Collection Atop Courchevel

After winning the GPHG’s Audacity Prize in 2021 with the Tambour Carpe Diem, Louis Vuitton unveiled today in Courchevel the new story of La Fabrique du Temps. Four high watchmaking timepieces have been developed with exceptional complications including two automata with 5 to 7 animations and sapphire innovations. Eleonor sat down with creative genius Michel […]

Pharrell as Louis Vuitton creative director may bring horological influence Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton creative director may bring Feb 18, 2023

Pharrell as Louis Vuitton creative director may bring horological influence

If you’re in any way interested in the world of fashion, the news of Pharrell becoming Louis Vuitton’s new men’s creative director will have reached you by now. While certainly not the obvious choice, given the existence of Jerry Lorenzo, Grace Wales Bonner and Martine Rose, it’s not like Pharrell has no fashion chops, either. … ContinuedThe post Pharrell as Louis Vuitton creative director may bring horological influence appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour Slim Vivienne Jump Hours SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Tambour Slim Vivienne Jump Feb 15, 2023

Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour Slim Vivienne Jump Hours

Louis Vuitton (LV) marked the 20th anniversary of its first mechanical watch last year (with an El Primero-powered chronograph). The brand has rapidly evolved its horological offerings over the two decades, going from largely basic, monogrammed watches to ambitious complications like the gothic Carpe Diem Minute Repeater with automaton.  A more whimsical example of LV’s progress in complications is the Tambour Slim Vivienne Jump Hours, a quirky interpretation of the jump hour complication that’s presented in a redesigned, svelte version of its signature drum-shaped case. Initial thoughts At the distance, the Vivienne Jump Hours looks like a run-of-the-mill character watch that’s slightly fancier than average. But upon closer inspection, it reveals a novel complication and an impressive degree of detail in the execution of the dial. The jump hour is mechanically conventional but presents as a double jumping indicator thanks to clever design. Its whimsical and unusual presentation typifies the spirit of LV. In fact, the complication is different enough that we hope it will make its way into more watches, especially timepieces for men. Given that the titular Vivienne character has a male counterpart named Gaston, it would make sense for the complication to make its way into a watch in a larger size.  The Tambour Slim Vivienne Jumping Hours “Casino” with a green skarn dial And I really dig the dials of the Vivienne Jump Hours, especially the dial in skarn, a re...

Louis Erard Adds Three Colorful Variants to the Petite Seconde Collection Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Adds Three Colorful Variants Feb 7, 2023

Louis Erard Adds Three Colorful Variants to the Petite Seconde Collection

Louis Erard has unveiled their first new watches of 2023, and they build on one of the brand’s key developments from last year. Usually when this brand comes to mind, enthusiasts think of their watches with regulator layouts, and the many interesting collaborations they’ve undertaken in the last few years as they’ve really gained traction with collectors. The Petite Seconde, part of their Excellence collection, is perhaps a little slept on by comparison. These are simple three handers, and not as flashy or unusual as the regulators (well, except for this one), but they have a charm of their own and represent a kind of simple, elegant watch that used to be quite common but is now harder to find in an environment dominated by sport and tool watches. The new watches introduced today all use plenty of vibrant color, and come in a case size that collectors have been asking for.  The 39mm Petite Seconde case seen here made its debut just about a year ago with the Petite Seconde Terracotta, a coppery, earthy spin on a traditional format. Until that point, the Petite Seconde had only been available in a 42mm case, which while not enormous by most standards, certainly stretched the limits for a watch of this type, which is at least attempting to approach a certain level of refinement. Notably, the Terracotta was available in either a 39mm or 42mm case, while no such option has been made available for this colorful trio. We’re not sure if that’s a signal that Louis Erard ...

Louis Vuitton Introduces the Tambour Jacquemart Minute Repeater “200 Years” SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Introduces Feb 7, 2023

Louis Vuitton Introduces the Tambour Jacquemart Minute Repeater “200 Years”

The world’s biggest luxury brand, Louis Vuitton has in recent years revealed steadily growing ambitions in haute horlogerie, especially after its acquisition of Geneva complications specialist La Fabrique de Temps (LFDT). To celebrate the 200th anniversary of the birth of its namesake founder, the brand created the Tambour Jacquemart Minute Repeater “200 Years”.  Conceived by LFDT, the Tambour “200 Years” is a one-of-a-kind timepiece that demonstrates its watchmaking division’s mastery of fine watchmaking as well as its appreciation of artisanal craftsmanship: the movement combines both a minute repeater and automaton, while the dial is enamel miniature painting by none other than Anita Porchet. Initial thoughts Some two years in the making, the Tambour “200 Years ” exemplifies Louis Vuitton’s development as a maker of haute horlogerie. The movement is impressively complicated, while the dial is nuanced and artisanal. Granted, the watch is huge at almost 48 mm, so it’s far from subtle, but that reflects the house style of Louis Vuitton. The dial in particular reveals the thought that went into its conception and execution, with the cosmos represented by shaded, translucent blue enamel that is nearly ethereal and complemented by automaton elements sculpted in white gold. The impressionistic depiction of the night sky and planets brings to mind Stanley Kubrick’s sci-fi classic 2001: A Space Odyssey. The Tambour “200 Years” is actually the se...

VIDEO: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Outdoor Chronograph Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Tambour Outdoor Chronograph What Jan 15, 2023

VIDEO: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Outdoor Chronograph

What comes to mind when you think of Louis Vuitton? Is it leather bags and wallets? Cream coloured trim? Or maybe a set of high-end luggage for travelling around the world? What if I told you what you should be thinking of is a watch collection with an iconic and flexible design? That’s what we … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Outdoor Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Louis Vuitton Announces Prize for Independent Watchmakers SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Announces Prize Jan 3, 2023

Louis Vuitton Announces Prize for Independent Watchmakers

Independent watchmaking has been gaining rapid momentum in the last three years. Young and talented watchmakers have emerged to seek recognition (and sometimes riches) in the mould of Philippe Dufour, Kari Voutilainen, and François-Paul Journe. Now the field is about to get the nod of approval from the luxury-goods establishment, with Louis Vuitton having announced the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives. Conceived to promote “horological creativity”, the award begins in 2023 with a broad remit. It is open to anyone in watchmaking and watch design, and even from fields related to horology. Initial thoughts As the world’s largest luxury brand, Louis Vuitton has unsurprisingly been making high-end watches for some time – last year was the 20th anniversary of its first mechanical wristwatch. Following its acquisition of Geneva movement maker La Fabrique du Temps in 2012, the brand’s ambitions have grown, resulting in impressively complicated watches like the Tambour Carpe Diem, a minute repeater with automaton. From that perspective, the Louis Vuitton prize is a natural extension of the brand’s progress as a watchmaker, a way for Louis Vuitton to make known its commitment to high-end watchmaking.  The fact that Louis Vuitton is using its considerable resources – the brand’s 2021 revenue was in the region of €15 billion – to support independent watchmakers is a welcome development. The prize money is substantial, reputedly in the low six ...

Why the jump hour display of the Louis Vuitton Spin Time shook the watch world Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Spin Time shook Dec 30, 2022

Why the jump hour display of the Louis Vuitton Spin Time shook the watch world

Watches. They broadly tell the time, but the way in which they do so is where things get interesting. You have your minimalists, which strip things down to the barest of elements: an hour and minute hand. Once you begin to add complications, like a second hand, a chronograph function, day/date apertures, perpetual calendars, and … ContinuedThe post Why the jump hour display of the Louis Vuitton Spin Time shook the watch world appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Gwendoline Christie never felt more beautiful on Netflix’s ‘Wednesday’ set wearing Cartier Tank Louis Time+Tide
Cartier Tank Louis Netflix’s Addams Dec 5, 2022

Gwendoline Christie never felt more beautiful on Netflix’s ‘Wednesday’ set wearing Cartier Tank Louis

Netflix’s Addams Family spin-off Wednesday has taken the world by spooky storm, with Jenna Ortega’s self-choreographed dance scene going certified viral. But, while much attention has been given to Ortega’s performance as Wednesday Addams, watch enthusiasts may have clocked Game of Thrones actor Gwendoline Christie sporting a Cartier Tank Louis Large in her role as Nevermore … ContinuedThe post Gwendoline Christie never felt more beautiful on Netflix’s ‘Wednesday’ set wearing Cartier Tank Louis appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Louis Vuitton announces their Watch Prize for Independent Creatives Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton announces their Watch Prize Dec 2, 2022

Louis Vuitton announces their Watch Prize for Independent Creatives

In an initiative to foster the future growth of innovation in the watchmaking industry, Louis Vuitton has announced the inaugural Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives. The competition (to be held every other year) seeks to nurture the future of innovation and creativity within the industry, as judged by a committee of 50 horological … ContinuedThe post Louis Vuitton announces their Watch Prize for Independent Creatives appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Nomos, Kurono and Louis Erard drops this week Time+Tide
Louis Erard drops Nov 18, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Nomos, Kurono and Louis Erard drops this week

This week for the Wind Down I am going to dig into some last-minute headlines you may have missed. Within the last 24 hours, Nomos, Kurono and Louis Erard all delivered some under-the-radar reveals. Nomos refine their Ludwig neomatik 41 Date with revised date disc Earlier today, Nomos debuted their new Ludwig neomatik 41 date … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Nomos, Kurono and Louis Erard drops this week appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Louis Horror and seconde/seconde/ reveal the spooky skeletons in their closets Time+Tide
Louis Erard Oct 29, 2022

Louis Horror and seconde/seconde/ reveal the spooky skeletons in their closets

Louis Erard is no stranger to collaboration, having released some of their most successful pieces in partnership with the likes of Massena LAB and legends like Alain Silberstein and Vianney Halter. Another on the long list of associates is Romaric André of seconde/seconde/, working together to produce a brilliant take on the brand’s regulator design, … ContinuedThe post Louis Horror and seconde/seconde/ reveal the spooky skeletons in their closets appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Louis Vuitton Escale Time Zone Spacecraft leaves technicolour behind for sci-fi vibes Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Escale Time Zone Spacecraft Oct 10, 2022

VIDEO: The Louis Vuitton Escale Time Zone Spacecraft leaves technicolour behind for sci-fi vibes

The iconic French fashion house Louis Vuitton may not have any claim to a watch worn on the moon, but that didn’t stop them from releasing a cosmic phenomenon in the Louis Vuitton Escale Time Zone Spacecraft. Unlike the drum-shaped Tambour watches which tend to be a little sportier, the Escale collection aims to evoke … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Louis Vuitton Escale Time Zone Spacecraft leaves technicolour behind for sci-fi vibes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Le Régulateur Louis Erard travels to the darkside with Label Noir Time+Tide
Louis Erard travels Sep 24, 2022

HANDS-ON: Le Régulateur Louis Erard travels to the darkside with Label Noir

A couple of years ago I wrote a few articles under the name The Modifier’s Series, providing an overview of the few brands capable of customising luxury watches to give them even more hype value. Outfits like MAD Paris, for example, managed to totally overhaul watches while catering to the modification requests of their clients, … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Le Régulateur Louis Erard travels to the darkside with Label Noir appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Exploring the deep-cased majesty of the Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty Sep 11, 2022

VIDEO: Exploring the deep-cased majesty of the Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty

The Tambour is Louis Vuitton’s most well-known watch design.  The fashion mega-brand has been slowly but surely establishing itself as a top-tier watchmaker since establishing Le Fabrique Du Temps, their dedicated watch manufacture, in 2014. Since then, several of Louis Vuitton’s watches have earned the Geneva Seal, a rarified standard of Swiss watchmaking reserved for … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Exploring the deep-cased majesty of the Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Trading faces: Bradley Cooper unveiled as new Louis Vuitton ambassador Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton ambassador Bradley Cooper has Sep 8, 2022

Trading faces: Bradley Cooper unveiled as new Louis Vuitton ambassador

Bradley Cooper has got a new watch. The Hollywood actor has just been unveiled as the face of Louis Vuitton’s Tambour, the brand’s most famous model that celebrates its 20th anniversary this year. The news will perhaps bother some po-faced folk, who’ll no doubt start muttering about Cooper’s previous affiliation as an IWC ambassador and … ContinuedThe post Trading faces: Bradley Cooper unveiled as new Louis Vuitton ambassador appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands On: Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty Chronograph SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty Chronograph Louis Sep 5, 2022

Hands On: Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty Chronograph

Louis Vuitton is now in its 20th year as a watchmaker. In that time it has gone from basic, ETA-powered watches to a variety of impressive complications, including its signature Spin Time, and even a minute repeater with automaton. To mark the occasion, Louis Vuitton (LV) has just announced the Tambour Twenty Chronograph, a remake modelled on the brand’s first serious mechanical timepiece. The two-decade journey has seen LV’s watchmaking division evolve from a shared space inside TAG Heuer’s factory to its own expansive facility in Geneva that includes not only a complications workshop but also its own dial-making facility. While LV does make some of its own movements now, the Tambour Twenty is a nod to its origins as a watchmaker. The 200-piece limited edition is modelled on the Tambour LV277 of 2003, the brand’s first chronograph that was powered by the Zenith El Primero. Initial thoughts Despite its odd proportions – a big case with tall, sloping sides and narrow lugs – the Tambour case is attractive in my eyes. And it’s distinctive and recognisable although its form is fairly simple. In short, it’s a successful design. The Tambour works especially well with complications since that gives its size – especially its thickness – a sense of purpose. Ordinarily I am not a fan of brown dials, but this is one of the few dials in the colour that looks good. LV executes its dials well – most of them are made in-house – and the reflective metallic brown o...