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360 articles · 1,219 videos found · page 12 of 53

Hands-On: the Ace Jewelers x Cedric Bellon CB01 Small Seconds Worn & Wound
May 12, 2025

Hands-On: the Ace Jewelers x Cedric Bellon CB01 Small Seconds

When is a watch more than a watch? It honestly sounds like a pretty dumb question, but it’s a question that I just asked myself when writing about the Cedric Bellon CB01 – a grade 5 titanium watch that’s just as much a watch as it is a case study in sustainability. I’ll admit, when I first laid eyes on the watch, I thought it looked very raw, almost unfinished. Upon closer inspection and a deeper dive into the brand itself, it started to click. The CB01 is a joint partnership between Watch Angels (a crowd funding platform), Ace Jewelers (an Amsterdam-based retailer) and Cedric Bellon (a watch designer) – by their powers combined, this watch is good for the planet! Captain Planet jokes aside, the CB01 is a 40mm titanium watch that features a mix of finishing techniques, an interesting movement, and very wrist-friendly dimensions. Let’s dig in and take a closer look at this collaboration that aims to bring sustainability to your wrist in a big way.  Case Measuring in at 40mm wide by 47mm lug-to-lug, the CB01 is a nice fit for my 6.75” wrist. The case is crafted from repurposed titanium. At first, I thought that repurposed was synonymous with recycled, but it’s not. The core belief behind this watch design is that when possible, materials from other productions will be used for this project. So maybe there was too much material ordered for another project that can be used here, having the watch achieve a higher “circularity score”. The principle behind ci...

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Introducing the Squale Corallo NOS 2008, Featuring a New Old Stock Case from the Archives Worn & Wound
Squale May 6, 2025

Introducing the Squale Corallo NOS 2008, Featuring a New Old Stock Case from the Archives

These days, it seems like every watchmaker is getting back to their roots and releasing redesigns or homages to past hits. I won’t speculate on what this means for the world psyche at the moment, but it has certainly produced a few discussion worthy pieces, whether controversial, widely popular, and everywhere in between. Swiss dive watch specialist Squale is capitalizing on the nostalgia boom with the Corallo NOS 2008. While the Corallo isn’t a rehash of a specific model for the brand-originally founded in 1959 as a case maker for other brands and known for their extreme divers and tool watches-it is a callback to designs of that decade, both from Squale and the watch world as a whole, and revives their “Corallo” case style from the decade, as they rediscovered 300 new old stock (or NOS) examples of the case in their archives three years ago. The name means “coral” in Italian, supposedly chosen for the eight rounded humps that form the bezel of the watch, giving it a shape reminiscent of the aquatic life form. I can’t see the resemblance, but I do like the silhouette that the humps give the watch, imbuing it with a symmetry that feels aggressively tactical, and makes sense for extreme diving applications; a gloved hand underwater will have no problem gripping the bezel with the namesake protrusions. The Corallo measures in at 36.8mm in diameter, 10.5mm in thickness, and 44mm lug-to-lug, and the 316L stainless steel case itself is a blend of the original ...

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Highlights: A Noteworthy Trio from Patek Philippe at Phillips Geneva SJX Watches
Patek Philippe May 5, 2025

Highlights: A Noteworthy Trio from Patek Philippe at Phillips Geneva

It’s hard to stand out among the 194-lots in Phillips’ incredibly stacked upcoming Geneva auction. The catalog for The Geneva Watch Auction: XXI includes 36 watches from Patek Philippe, including familiar favorites like two ref. 5004s and an assortment of Nautilus and Aquanaut models. But three watches are especially notable. These highlights are led by the only known ref. 3448 “Padellone” perpetual calendar in pink gold – a retailer-signed example at that – followed by a landmark “grand” complication with Hagmann case, and a Beyer-signed pocket watch with a portal to Amsterdam on the back. The auction takes place on May 10 and 11, 2025, at the Hotel President Wilson in Geneva. Lot 74: Patek Philippe ref. 3448 in pink gold signed “Freccero” Patek Philippe’s first self-winding perpetual calendar, the ref. 3448, was primarily made in yellow or white gold – except for this example in pink gold. Besides the unique case material, this also has a retailer-signed dial. In addition, it’s in incredible condition, with unpolished lugs so sharp you could almost cut yourself. It features an early “second series” dial, with a “dimple” style minute track and engraved, enamelled markings. Even though the movement inside the ref. 3448 is one of the most beautiful automatics ever made, the cal. 27-460 doesn’t skate by on pretty privilege. The calibre is technically competent: with a free-sprung gyro-max balance, overcoil hairspring, and Patek Philippe’...

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Bremont Debuts their Revamped Pilot Watches in the Altitude Line Worn & Wound
Bremont Debuts their Revamped Pilot Apr 2, 2025

Bremont Debuts their Revamped Pilot Watches in the Altitude Line

Last year was, no matter how you look at it, a transformational one for Bremont. Nowhere was this more obvious than at Watches & Wonders 2024, where the English brand rolled into Palexpo with a new CEO, new watches, and an entirely new brand identity. To say they caused a stir would be an understatement, and the brand’s radical reinvention was one of the prevailing narratives in the show’s aftermath. Still, amidst all the discourse and new collections, one key Bremont tentpole went undisturbed last year - but no longer. Now, for Watches & Wonders 2025, Bremont is introducing an updated offering of pilot’s watches, bringing what is arguably Bremont’s most important collection of watches in line with the rest of the new Bremont catalog. The updated Altitude lineup is made up of three new models: The Altitude 39 Date, the Altitude Chronograph GMT, and the Altitude MB Meteor (a successor to the MBII), and offers the best balance so far between a classic Bremont feel and the brand’s updated identity. There’s also a perpetual calendar to be discussed, but that’s for another time. Notably, each of the new watches retains Bremont’s hallmark Trip-Tick case, which was notably omitted from last year’s launches. Still, there is no confusing these for old-school Bremont. The updated Altitude collection boasts a slimmer look, with thinner lugs and bezels, and the watches each adopt a near-monochromatic colorway, dropping some of the colorful flourishes Bremont has of...

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A. Lange & Söhne Introduces a Compact 1815 in Blue SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Apr 1, 2025

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces a Compact 1815 in Blue

Among the new releases from A. Lange & Söhne this year, the blue-dialed 1815 34 mm might be the most surprising. Lange has a well-earned reputation for making chunky, complicated watches, but watches like this show the brand has good instincts when it comes to the opposite end of the spectrum and is equally capable of making simple, graceful watches. Available in 18k white or rose gold, the 1815 34 mm is a not a limited edition, and it is an alternative entry-level model in addition to the Saxonia Thin. Despite its simplicity, the 1815 is equipped with an all-new movement, the L152.1. Initial thoughts I’d argue few brands are as committed to understatement as Lange, and this watch is a testament to that. While there’s been an undeniable trend toward smaller, thinner watches in recent years, 34 mm is aggressively small, which makes it a statement of sorts; it’s the polar opposite of the big ostentatious watches that are all-too common. Candidly, a 34 mm watch is not for everyone, but that’s kind of the point. The key difference between this new 1815 and those we’ve come to know is its diminutive 34 mm case, which makes it the smallest 1815 to-date, matching the diameter of the original Saxonia. In fact, at just 5.9 mm thick, it’s the smallest watch Lange has ever made. But despite its small size, the new 1815 retains the brand’s signature faceted lugs and brushed case band. The movement fills the case neatly, and even though the case back is slim, it still f...

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eBay Finds: An Unusual Vintage Omax, a Pair of Bulovas, and a Classic King Seiko Worn & Wound
Bulova s Feb 28, 2025

eBay Finds: An Unusual Vintage Omax, a Pair of Bulovas, and a Classic King Seiko

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Croton Chronomaster   The Croton Chronomaster is a classic vintage chronograph with an iconic name. Usually these are called Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver (like I said, iconic), but this iteration has been reduced for brevity’s sake to just the Chronomaster…still a great name. But it’s not just a cool name, this chunky 1970’s chronograph has the classic squarish steel case that looks unpolished but does have some wear from age/use. The aluminum dive bezel is in good shape with minimal wear. The black dial is clean and has a great layout with the dual subdials and date window at 6 o’clock giving it a nice symmetry. The Valjoux manual wind movement is clean and runs well per the seller. View auction here Vintage Bulova Ambassador  Next up is this sweet vintage Bulova. The seller calls it an Ambassador, but to be honest I don’t recall seeing this model attached to that name. Either way, it’s a beauty. The slim white gold filled case is clean, with bold fancy lugs. The black dial looks original and is really clean. It has stylized Art Deco style numerals and a nice subseconds dial at 6 o’clock. The Bulova caliber 7AK manual wind movement is clean and works well pe...

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Up Close: Hermès Arceau Duc Attelé Repeater Triple-Axis Tourbillon SJX Watches
Breguet numerals Jan 27, 2025

Up Close: Hermès Arceau Duc Attelé Repeater Triple-Axis Tourbillon

Hermès is a brand with a distinctive, often whimsical, visual identity that translates well across products, even on its most complicated watches like the Arceau Duc Attelé, which combines a triple-axis central tourbillon (containing a high-frequency escapement) with a minute repeater featuring novel “tuning fork” gongs. Large, thick, and very complex, the Duc Attelé still manages to capture the elegant aesthetic of the brand, even in subtle details of the H1926 movement, like horse-shaped hammers for the repeater. Customised for Hermès, the calibre has an intricate, dense construction but is recognisable as being produced by a specialist. Initial thoughts The Duc Attelé demonstrates the strength of the Hermès house style. On the front, it looks elegant despite the size, while the movement feels appropriate even though it is third party. The watch does sit big on the wrist, though the titanium version is a little lighter in weight and visually smaller due to its dark colours. But the Arceau case has tiny lugs, so it doesn’t feel clunky. And although the case is almost 20 mm high, a good part of that is due to the highly domed crystal that accommodates the tourbillon’s height. All of the design elements, however, give it an elegant feel. These include the Breguet numerals on the domed chapter ring and the “Lift” motif tourbillon cage modelled on the elevator in the brand’s flagship store in Paris. But more than anything else, this is a watch characterise...

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TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox 39mm Purple Dial Review Teddy Baldassarre
TAG Heuer Jan 21, 2025

TAG Heuer Carrera Glassbox 39mm Purple Dial Review

When TAG Heuer released the Carrera “Glassbox” in 2023 it was immediately received as one of the better vintage reinterpretations of the post-pandemic era. Why exactly is it so beloved? Well, first off, it was the first non-limited production or limited edition ‘Glassbox’ Carrera since the line was introduced all the way back in 2015 with the Calibre 18 Telemeter. Then came notable limited editions like the Skipper reissue and 160th anniversary edition. Secondly, the 39mm-wide case with that personality-packed, domed sapphire crystal (aka "Glassbox") struck a good balance between modern manufacturing/finishing and vintage-inspired design. Now as LVMH Watch Week 2025 kicks off, TAG Heuer has released a new Carrera Chronograph "Glassbox" in a striking purple dial that is borrowed from a limited-edition Monaco from 2022. We haven’t seen too many purple-dial watches so far, so it’s savvy for TAG to get in on the ground floor of what could (or just as easily could not) be the next big color at the top of 2025. Personally, I think it looks great and could very well be the most attractive iteration of the Glassbox so far. While I love and admire TAG’s consistent dedication to its vintage-racing-inspired history, it’s so nice to see something that isn’t really steeped in any legacy story but rather just looks cool and stands on its own in the moment. The 39mm wide and 13.86mm-thick case of the Carrera Glassbox (with 100 meters of water resistance) has a 46mm lug-...

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eBay Finds: An Atomic Age Wittnauer, an Unusual “Apple Watch,” and a Funky Vintage Omega Worn & Wound
Omega eBay Finds Jan 3, 2025

eBay Finds: An Atomic Age Wittnauer, an Unusual “Apple Watch,” and a Funky Vintage Omega

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Apple Watch Here’s a really neat piece and one I haven’t seen before. It’s a vintage original-logo Apple watch. Although this watch looks like it’s from the 80’s, MacOS wasn’t released until 1999, and with the MacOS logo on the original rubber strap, I’m guessing that’s when this watch was released. It has a cool multicolor hands and bezel setup that matches the six color Apple logo. Very unique design with what looks like a blue anodized bezel and integrated hidden lugs with the crazy shaped hands. And the original rubber strap with blue buckle and MacOS logo on it. Great vintage Apple piece if you’re an Apple fan like me. View auction here 1950s Benrus   This vintage 1950’s Benrus is super cool and in spectacular condition. The yellow gold fill tank style case has unique sculpted lugs giving it a look that really stands out. The fancy case is excellent with virtually no wearthrough that I can detect from the pictures. The crown is original and signed “Benrus”. The silver dial is about as clean as it gets with these types of 50’s watches and has the cool three color logo bar under the Benrus at 12 o’clock. The movement is clean and runs well per th...

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Best of 2024: Value Propositions Below US$10,000 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko SLGW005 or Tudor Black Dec 23, 2024

Best of 2024: Value Propositions Below US$10,000

Many of the year’s most notable watches were expensive, especially complications and independent watchmaking, but there were still a few standouts at the affordable end of the price spectrum. Some relied on familiar formulas, like the Grand Seiko SLGW005 or Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT, while others like the Louis Erard Vianney Halter collaboration were unexpected. Here’s our team’s take on the year’s best watches under US$10,000. Albishorn Type 10 Chronograph - David Ichim A great debut from the recently-established micro brand is the Type 10 Chronograph. Albishorn’s tagline is “imaginary vintage” - drawing inspiration from actual vintage watches, but reimagined with an entirely novel composition, resulting in watches that are highly suggestive of an era without actually being remakes. The Type 10 Chronograph exemplifies this philosophy. The hands, typeface, bezel, and slim lugs pay homage to mid-century aviator chronographs from the likes of Airain, Breguet, and Heuer. The unusual arrangement of the chronograph display however makes it entirely unique.  Inside is a heavily reworked 7750-derived movement, that is positioned unconventionally, leading to the unusual crown and pusher arrangement along with the unorthodox chronograph layout. The manually-wound movement is also C.O.S.C certified and incorporates a chronograph-function indicator. In fact, the calibre is arguably more than just heavily reworked, amongst other things, it has shorter pinions than a 77...

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The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Sunny Tsui Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward C63 Sealander GMT – Dec 13, 2024

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Sunny Tsui

Editor’s note: In this week’s 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Sunny Tsui takes us through a hypothetical collection that is remarkably well balanced. It features a watch from a major luxury brand, an affordable indie on the rise, and, like so many of these three watch collections, a Seiko that you might not be expecting.  You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. It’s always interesting to think about a three watch collection with a given budget at a certain point in time. The recommendations will evolve over time with our knowledge in watches, new models coming up, and the market conditions. I have been considering style, complications, and brand variety when constructing this collection. To push the boundary maximising the value, I am selecting all three watches from the pre-owned market.  Christopher Ward C63 Sealander GMT – $900 (Pre-owned) The first one is a versatile watch from a British brand – Christopher Ward. I have been following the brand for a while but really took notice, like many others, when they launched the C1 Bel Canto. From my experience the brand really does a good job in manufacturing high quality watches with reasonable mark-ups. With a 39mm diameter, 12mm case height, and a 46mm lug-to-lug distance plus a clean white dial, the C63 Sealander GMT is a versatile watch fitting any occasion and outfit. You can easily pair it with business casual attire in the workp...

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Todd Snyder and Weiss Watch Company Team Up for their First Collaborative Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Oct 7, 2024

Todd Snyder and Weiss Watch Company Team Up for their First Collaborative Limited Edition

Todd Snyder has once again teamed up with a quintessentially American maker to produce a highly limited field watch - and it’s not who you think. For decades now, and particularly since the founding of his eponymous brand in 2011, Todd Snyder has done his level best to elevate and highlight American heritage brands. From collaborations with Red Wing and Champion to L.L. Bean and Alden, Todd Snyder has - much like Ralph Lauren before him and Snyder’s contemporary (and former J. Crew colleague) Sid Mashburn - been one of the leading ambassadors for the original styles and designs that have defined the American look. Today, Snyder is partnering with a younger brand, Weiss Watch Company, to introduce a collaboration highlighting not only the revival of American watchmaking but the enduring legacy of American manufacturing and craftsmanship that inspire both brands so clearly. The result is the Weiss Watch Company x Todd Snyder Field Watch, a modest and robust field watch built very much on the platform of the Weiss Watch Company Standard Issue Field Watch but elevated with the distinct visual signature we’ve come to expect from Todd Snyder. The Weiss Watch Company x Todd Snyder Field Watch measures 38mm across, 46.2mm lug-to-lug, and 9mm thick (a measure that includes the double-domed sapphire crystal). The watch retains Cameron Weiss’s signature case design, here in 316L Stainless Steel, and is available in two versions. The first features a tan dial and a natu...

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The Seiko Presage “Laurel” Gets a Porter Classic Makeover SJX Watches
Seiko Presage “Laurel” Gets Oct 2, 2024

The Seiko Presage “Laurel” Gets a Porter Classic Makeover

The Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series Porter Classic Collaboration SPB449 is result of a collaboration with Japanese fashion label Porter Classic. It’s modelled on the Laurel, the 1913 Seiko timepiece that was the first wristwatch made in Japan, giving the SPB449 a look typical of early-20th century timepieces that were essentially pocket watches converted into wristwatches. Porter Classic was founded by a member of the family that founded Porter Yoshida, the cult luggage brand known for its functional and pricey nylon bags. The brand offers clothing and accessories with a vintage feel, including jackets that accommodate pocket watches. Its take on the Presage is a modest tweak on the original: a black enamel dial made by the workshop of Mitsuru Yokosawa, the longtime supplier of enamel dials for the Presage. Initial thoughts Collaborations between watch brands and lifestyle labels are now common, so the SPB449 isn’t a surprise, especially since it’s between two uniquely Japanese brands. Still, Seiko rarely does collaborations with the Presage Craftsmanship series. The aesthetic, however, is not new as this similar to earlier Presage limited editions, namely the SPB359 of 2022 and last year’s SPB441, that were similarly inspired by the Laurel. While the difference between this and the earlier Laurel edition is basically a change of dial colour, the SPB449 stands out thanks to the high-contrast, black enamel dial. It’s striking even though the case is undersized ...

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The Latest Seiko Prospex Speedtimers are Here Worn & Wound
Hamilton Intra-Matic Chrono though very Sep 17, 2024

The Latest Seiko Prospex Speedtimers are Here

“In this world nothing can be said to be certain, except death and taxes.” It’s been 235 years since Ben Franklin wrote those words, and I think it’s fair to say he pretty much hit the nail on the head with them. That said, he lived in a different time, so I’d like to offer an update for 2024. “In this world nothing can be said to be certain, except death, taxes, and new Seikos.” Isn’t that better? For the last five years or so, Seiko has slowly been expanding its lineup of mechanical chronographs, and nowhere is this more apparent than in its line of automatic Prospex Speedtimers. Last year, we saw that line expand with the introduction of the 1970s-inspired SRQ047 and limited edition SRQ049. This year, Seiko is building on that model’s success with a fresh pair of reverse panda–dialed chronographs, the SRQ051 and SRQ053. The mechanical Prospex Speedtimer lineup is split into two distinct designs, a slightly dressier bi-register design somewhat reminiscent of the Hamilton Intra-Matic Chrono, though very much an interpretation of Seiko’s original chronograph, the 5719, and a tri-register layout with a sportier case. The SRQ051 and SRQ053 belong to the latter group and feel like the big brother to the immensely popular Solar Speedtimer chronographs we’ve seen iterated upon in the last few years. These latest Seiko chronographs are well-sized, measuring 42mm across, 14.6mm thick, and 49.5mm lug-to-lug. Having spent some time with last year’s models,...

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Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Quantieme Lunaire SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Quantieme Lunaire Earlier Aug 19, 2024

Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Quantieme Lunaire

Earlier this year Jaeger-LeCoultre unveiled the refreshed Duometre line, with the entry into the new collection being the Duometre Quantieme Lunaire, the only steel model in the line-up so far. The dual train movement is used to power two separate sets of indications, one is the time with hours, minutes, and seconds, and the other a combination of the date, moon phase, and lightning seconds. Made  up of several models sporting an all-new look, this year’s Duometre collection is the first substantial facelift of the model line since its launch in 2007. While the original models had an aesthetic that brought to mind A. Lange & Söhne, the redesigned Duometre models have a more vintage-ish look that incorporates elements that are popular today, including a domed crystal and decorative recesses on the lugs. In terms of mechanical function, however, the new Duometre models are fundamentally the same. The “duo” barrels of the Duometre Initial thoughts The new look is a good one. It’s attractive and still fairly original; although it is vintage inspired, the design avoids looking generic, thanks in part to the distinctive Duometre dial layout. The domed crystal and dial result in the new model looking slightly bigger than the original, but at the same time it feels thinner. The dial layout is essentially the same as on the earlier generation Quantieme Lunaire as the movement is essentially identical. The recognisable double barrels-and-trains construction is evident, wh...

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Ollech & Wajs Recreates the Classic Caribbean 1000 Diver Worn & Wound
Blancpain Rolex Aug 6, 2024

Ollech & Wajs Recreates the Classic Caribbean 1000 Diver

Ever since humans began exploring the ocean’s depths, watch companies have been creating timepieces capable of withstanding the pressures of SCUBA diving. In the 1950s and 60s, companies like Blancpain, Rolex, and Omega raced to create watches with the greatest water resistance. However, a small collaborative brand outdid them all with a watch capable of reaching a depth of 1000 meters. It took Rolex well into the next decade before they made a watch that could go beyond that. One of those collaborators was Ollech & Wajs, and the legendary timepiece was named the Caribbean 1000. Roughly thirty years later, when the internet was still in its early stages, if you were searching the web for dive watches, there’s a good chance you came across New Old Stock (NOS) Caribbean 1000 watches by Ollech & Wajs or Jenny. In its heyday, O&W; produced nearly 10,000 watches per year. There were still quite a few unused watches available, and collectors were thrilled to have access to them. Despite barely surviving the quartz crisis of the 1970s, Albert Wajs remained in charge until 2017, when the brand was sold to Charles Le Menestrel. Since then, the brand has been revived with reimagined models from the past, such as the Caribbean. To celebrate its 60th anniversary, O&W; is launching the most authentic reproduction of the original Caribbean 1000 to date, the C-1000 A. From its short, triangle-shaped lugs, affectionately referred to as ‘Vampire fangs’ by collectors, to its narrow 12...

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Furlan Marri Introduces an Updated Take on the Disco Volante Worn & Wound
Furlan Marri Introduces Jul 16, 2024

Furlan Marri Introduces an Updated Take on the Disco Volante

The latest from Furlan Marri pays tribute to a classic watch design while adding just enough of a twist to make it feel contemporary. The new Disco Volante takes a circular, flying saucer-like case that first became popular in the 1930s as its starting point, and tweaks the formula slightly. Thinking about Furlan Marri’s previous work and the design language they’ve established, the Disco Volante makes a lot of sense in their ongoing project of updating classic Art Deco ideas, and the watch really fits into the current moment as well, which has seen shaped cases and unusual designs pulled from the past and brought up to date for new audiences.  The circular cases seen here have hidden lugs on the back side, so these sit as a perfect circle on the wrist. Cases with no visible lugs, of course, tend to wear a bit smaller, so Furlan Marri has chosen to make these Disco Volantes in 38mm as opposed to the more traditional 36mm cases found on vintage watches in this style. In theory, this should open up the Disco Volante to both men and women who are used to wearing modern watches, but seek something a little unusual and heavily vintage inspired. The integrated crown that sits flush with the case further reinforces the Disco Volante’s shape, as does the gently curved bezel.  Three dial options are available at launch: Havana Disco, Disco Celeste, and Disco Verde. The Havana Disco is perhaps the most striking of the bunch, and acts as a link to Furlan Marri’s very first ...

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Hands-On: the Haim Viajero Worldtimer Worn & Wound
Vacheron Constantin e “Cornes de Vache” Jul 12, 2024

Hands-On: the Haim Viajero Worldtimer

I’ll be honest, I started off my experience with the new Viajero coming from a pretty far off and distant place. No, not some cool and remote corner of the world, but as a person who was largely unfamiliar with both Haim as a brand and also the concept of a worldtimer. While I have a GMT in my personal collection, the idea of tracking several time zones via a worldtimer never seemed like something on my radar. Am I classy enough for this? Is a worldtimer even worth the typically large price tag that they command? I remember seeing an Omega worldtimer that was pretty cool…oh right, that’s pushing $10k and not exactly at the top of my spend-ten-thousand-dollars-on-a-watch list.  When the Haim Viajero came across my desk, the first thing I thought was how interesting it is to get a worldtimer complication for a fair amount under a thousand bucks, and that’s exactly what the watch accomplishes. Pack your carryon and prepare for a few layovers, we’re going worldtiming. Case A 38.5mm diameter is a pretty nice spot to be if you’re a watch case. It often hits that goldilocks “just right” feeling, especially on my 6.75” wrist. At 45.5mm lug-to-lug and12mm tall, the watch is firmly in mid-sized territory. The Viajero is largely circular from the top down, featuring lugs that borrow heavily from the celebrated Vacheron Constantine “Cornes de Vache”. The result is nice and clean, and it looks as though the sharp, yet curved lugs are holding up the case in an ele...

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Grand Seiko Unveils the Spring Drive GMT SBGE307 “Tokyo Lion” SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Unveils Jul 9, 2024

Grand Seiko Unveils the Spring Drive GMT SBGE307 “Tokyo Lion”

Following last year’s SBGA481, Grand Seiko continues to expand the Sport Collection “Tokyo Lion” series inspired by the big cat in the Grand Seiko emblem. Like its predecessor, the Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE307 “Tokyo Lion” sports a stylised, angular titanium case inspired by a lion’s paw and a textured dial modelled on a mane, now joined by a red GMT hand. Initial thoughts The “Tokyo Lion” is one of the most distinctive case designs in Grand Seiko’s large catalogue, and also the flagship given its complex finishing (and accompanying price). While most Grand Seiko watches opt for patterned dials and conservative, even bland, case styles, the “Tokyo Lion” makes a statement with its is generous dimensions and angular styling. The design is also particularly suited to Grand Seiko’s signature flat-polishing technique. With their wide, flat surfaces, the claw-inspired lugs are an excellent medium to showcase zaratsu polishing. It is, however, a large case at almost 45 mm wide and 15 mm high, so it’s catered to someone seeking a bold sports watch, and not an old-school Grand Seiko dress watch. The texture of the dial is striking, even though Grand Seiko has no shortage of dial patterns in its offerings. The dial artfully mimics a lion’s mane, giving it more visual depth than the typical Grand Seiko dial. Though few, the red accents on the dial add just enough colour and complement the ivory dial well. The dial might have been slightly dull without th...

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Baltic Adds New Watches to their Micro-Rotor Collection Worn & Wound
Baltic Adds New Watches Jul 4, 2024

Baltic Adds New Watches to their Micro-Rotor Collection

Three years after the debut of the MR01, Baltic has updated their popular micro-rotor movement powered dress watch line in a big way. The new MR Roulette collection, which debuts today, offers a new take on the platform with a slightly more casual, sector dial inspired layout. Coming on the heels of the Prismic collection, a series of watches that drew intense reactions in all directions, the MR Roulette feels like a return to the aesthetic that made Baltic the brand they are today, with modest vintage cues, a mixing of textures, and an enticing price point.  The MR Roulette is built on the same foundation of previous micro-rotor powered watches in Baltic’s catalog. It has a 36mm steel case with a flat, vertically brushed bezel and lugs that are brushed in a complementary circular pattern. The case is accented with tasteful polishing on the bezel wall, and measures an easy to wear 44mm from lug to lug. If you’ve ever tried on the original MR01, you know that this case truly wears like a vintage watch, not only its proportions, but it has a light and airy quality to it as well. It measures just 9.9mm tall, but feels thinner because nearly 2mm of that height is taken up by the domed hesalite crystal.  The new dials are available in salmon, silver, blue, and black variants. All but the black feature a grained background paired with two brushed sectors: an interior track for the hours, and an exterior track for the minutes. The running seconds subdial is off-center, cove...

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ochs und junior Introduces the Luna Sole, their Lightest and Thinnest Watch Yet Worn & Wound
Jul 2, 2024

ochs und junior Introduces the Luna Sole, their Lightest and Thinnest Watch Yet

ochs und junior has released the latest in their line of celestial-inspired watches, this time with a movement and complication ten years in the making. To look at it, the luna sole couldn’t be anything besides an ochs und junior and uses a series of rotating discs to convey the relative position of the moon, sun, and earth. When I was first getting into watches in the early 2010s, the watch industry - in particular the Swiss watch industry - was experiencing a very real bout of homogeneity. Coming out of the recession, and with the real boom times still ahead of them, it felt like brands were (mostly) looking to play it safe and ride out the stormy weather. ochs und junior was one of the first brands I came across that was, in a big way, playing their own game. While the luna sole is a pure expression of that approach, it’s also the thinnest and lightest ochs und junior we’ve seen yet, and demonstrates a clear evolution from the early days of the brand without sacrificing any of the brutalist industrial design the brand is known for. The luna sole measures in at 40mm across and 9mm thick, with a lug-to-lug barely longer than the diameter of the watch. More to the point, the grade 5 titanium case is light - the watch head without the strap is only 40 grams, about the equivalent of a handful of quarters. Inside the luna sole, you’ll find a modified version of the ETA 2892, initially conceptualized and designed by ochs und junior founder Ludwig Oechslin a decad...

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De Bethune Launches Two New DB Eight References Worn & Wound
De Bethune Launches Two New DB Jun 14, 2024

De Bethune Launches Two New DB Eight References

A little over a year on from the release of the DB Eight, De Bethune is following up the mono-usher chronograph with two new variants, each in gold, and each of which offers a welcome look back at the early days of the brand.  De Bethune is a brand well-versed in the avant-garde. The name alone tends to conjure images of remarkably blue tourbillons with spring-loaded lugs, and other sci-fi-esque watches. In the last few years, De Bethune has become well known for pushing the boundaries of watchmaking in both a technical and aesthetic sense - they even sent a watch to (near) space on the wrist of Michael Strahan. If you’re only familiar with De Bethune thanks to watches like the DB28 Kind of Blue Tourbillon or the DB28GS Yellow Submarine, looking back at the early days of De Bethune might come with a bit of a surprise. Early De Bethunes stood out not because of any outrageous architecture or wild case finishing, but rather thanks to a refined - and very traditional - look, backed up by the technical prowess of Denis Flageollet, the brand’s founder. The DB8 was one of these early, very traditional watches. Though still identifiable as a De Bethune thanks to its bullet lugs and three-part case, the DB8 was (in most senses) a very traditional take on the concept of a mono-pusher chronograph dress watch. The new DB Eight is a fitting follow up to that watch, holding on to much of the original’s concept and charm, but with each and every detail refined and update...

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The Gérald Genta Oursin is Reborn SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton s La Fabrique du Jun 7, 2024

The Gérald Genta Oursin is Reborn

Recently revived by Louis Vuitton’s La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), Gérald Genta has just taken the covers off the Gentissima Oursin. Comprising three watches inspired by a 1994 model, the Oursin is a gently reworked take on the original, retaining the round, pebble-like case covered in studs and subtly facetted sapphire crystal. Though compact like the original, the modern-day Oursin is instead cased in titanium but fitted with solid-gold studs. Initial thoughts  In contrast to last year’s Mickey Mouse minute repeater, the Oursin is simple in terms of the movement, but it stands out for the complexity of the case construction as well as the striking design that is quintessential Genta. Though the revived Oursin faithfully recreates the original, subtle improvements have been made to the design, most notably with the reworked lugs tucked under the case, giving it a seamless outline. Another upgrade is the Zenith Elite movement within that replaces the ETA of the original. The new Oursin, however, remains similar in size to the original at 36.5 mm. I personally would have wanted something a little bigger, because the compact dimensions make the watch feel more decorative and ornate. The Oursin starts at CHF22,000 in titanium with white gold studs, with the version featuring diamonds on the studs priced at CHF32,000. While not quite a value proposition, the prices are fair considering the construction as well as brand. Quintessential Genta French for “[sea] urchin”, o...

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TAG Heuer Introduces Updated Aquaracers Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Introduces Updated Aquaracers It Jun 3, 2024

TAG Heuer Introduces Updated Aquaracers

It feels like not too long ago, TAG Heuer had completely revamped their Aquaracer line of dive watches, and for the most part, they were well received by the public at large. However, many collectors felt they had not gone far enough, especially with their 300m Professional series. TAG Heuer has listened and updated for 2024, with tweaked and revamped versions of the Aquaracer Professional 300 Date and GMT.  At first glance, you may quickly mistake these for the previous generation, but rest assured, the refinements are there, and they are considerable. Let us begin with what they have kept. The general shape of the watch is identical to the previous one, however they have slightly downsized the case from 43mm to 42mm. This may not be too noticeable, though proportions feel enhanced. They have also kept the quirky and unique polygonal hour indices, as well as the color matched ceramic bezels with a blue lumed triangle at the 60-minute mark. The latter matches the lume color on the minute hand, while everything else glows green, as it did before. The bracelet also remains the same and it retains the tremendous on-the-fly micro-adjustable clasp, which was introduced with the prior incarnation. The case back still features the neat diver’s helmet engraving and is screwed down by a proprietary key. Lug-to-lug length has been shortened by 2mm and is now 48mm, which should make these watches even easier to wear for more people. These new models will be available in black, blu...

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