Hodinkee
Vintage Watches: A 1979 Rolex Submariner With Mark 3 'Lollipop' Maxi Dial, A 1970s Heuer Monaco Ref. 1133B, And A 1970s Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox Polaris II 'GT'
New year, new vintage watches.
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Hodinkee
New year, new vintage watches.
SJX Watches
Perhaps TAG Heuer’s most distinctive vintage chronograph, the Monaco is best known for having been worn by Steve McQueen in the 1971 film Le Mans. Having been iterated multiple times in modern times, the Monaco is making its debut in a more unusual guise. A blend of old and new, the Monaco Titan has a sandblasted titanium case, along with a brushed silver that bearing the trademark horizontal markers of the original Monaco. Initial thoughts TAG Heuer has launched many Monaco editions recently, enough that I can’t recall most of them. The Monaco Titan, however, stands out in both design and materials. Combining the style of the vintage Monaco ref. 1133B – most notably the distinctive horizontal hour markers – with modern colours, finishes, and materials, this arguably the best looking Monaco of the last couple of years. Besides the aesthetics of the material – titanium is a darker grey shade than steel – the case will be noticeably lighter in titanium, which will be useful given that the Monaco is a relatively chunky watch, despite a relatively modest diameter. Somewhat pricey at US$7,900, the Monaco Titan isn’t quite the value proposition of the Monaco models with the in-house Heuer 02 movement – which cost less despite the in-house movement – though the price premium is partially attributable to the case material and limited edition run. Still, the Monaco Titan is an appealing watch, and the most appealing in the Monaco line. Matte titanium The Monaco Ti...
Monochrome
Few initiatives in modern watchmaking genuinely place craft above product. The Time Æon Foundation is one that looks to safeguard and transmit traditional handmade techniques at the highest level. Its Naissance d’une Montre series has become the best expression of its mission, not just watches, but workshops of knowledge, where historical methods are relearned, applied, and […]
Worn & Wound
By definition, a heritage brand needs to be something of a stalwart within its industry. By remaining conservative, it can uphold certain design vernaculars of a bygone era, thereby ensuring both its own heritage status and the traditions with which its industry hinges upon. This is, of course, the case with many centuries-old watch brands and, perhaps, what you’d think of the British brand Fears, which was founded in 1846. Instead, what we see within the context of its revival in 2016 is a brand that builds upon it’s heritage to produce something appreciative of its archive, yes, but is not handcuffed to its own tradition. I mention this all to say that a Studio Under0g x Fears collaboration excites me greatly. First and foremost because I’m a fan of Mad Men and its cocktail-inspired release, the Manhattan, is eye-catching enough for me. But also because it shows the forward-thinkingness of a brand that is hellbent on bringing Britain’s oldest watchbrands into the 21st century with one of its youngest. The Manhattan isn’t the first collaboration between these two brands. Earlier this year, the 02SERIES Gimlet enjoyed a limited release at British Watchmakers’ Day in March. Now, we see a similar event-exclusive release, this time for WindUp Watch Fair NYC next month, where the limited production will be available on a first-come-first-serve basis. With its amber-colored dial and steel cushion case, the Manhattan definitely lives up to the urbanity of its namesak...
Hodinkee
The result of over a decade of work at the TAG Heuer Lab, the "TH-Carbonspring" is a new oscillator that relies on carbon rather than silicon – and it will soon be available in a pair of limited edition models.
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For inquiries and collabs: twtw.mike@gmail.com
Monochrome
Since Christiaan Huygens paired a balance wheel and spiral spring in 1675, the hairspring has been the beating heart of every mechanical watch. Its material has always dictated chronometric performance. Steel, used for centuries, suffered from magnetism and temperature drift. Special alloys developed in the 20th century improved reliability – from Elinvar to Nivarox/Nivachron, made […]
Monochrome
Not too long ago, we introduced you to the newly founded European chapter of The Horology Club, one of the fastest-growing and most active watch enthusiast and collector clubs around. Founded in Hong Kong by Helbert Tsang, Johnathan Chan and Carlos Pang in 2021, the club quickly gained traction in the greater Hong Kong area […]
Hodinkee
All that and more in this week's edition of Hodinkee's What's Selling Where column.
Monochrome
The rise of interest in watches has sparked many exciting initiatives to share the passion and knowledge for watches and related fields of interest. One such initiative is a watch club, whether online or physical. Like-minded people connect over watchmaking in general, specific brands, or even specific watches, which is nothing new, and it’s an […]
Worn & Wound
It’s not often that whimsy and tradition become bedfellows, even in the wild world of watches. Time-honored brands with industry gravitas rarely join forces with quirky start-ups, and on the odd occasion when they do, the results can be divisive for traditionalists and experimentalists alike, who squabble over value, style, and reputation without stopping to admire the unique product that results from such collaborations. This is why the announcement of Fears and Studio Underd0g’s limited edition collaboration for British Watchmakers’ Day packed such an immediate punch for me, and likely will for anyone else familiar with the two brands. The unique 178-year history of Fears, resurrected in 2016 by managing director Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, combined with the brash innovation of Studio Underd0g, launched by founder Richard Benc in 2021, has resulted in a limited edition watch that flaunts the design ethos of both brands in such force that it’s unmistakably a shared effort at first glance. The Fears x Studio Underd0g Gimlet draws attention immediately with a snappy lime dial (a nod to the watch’s tasty namesake beverage) and a cushion-shaped 38mm case inspired by the Fears Brunswick. Round edges and curves give the case a vintage feel, as does the beautiful typography-another signature Fears touch. But don’t be fooled into thinking that this is just another variant of the Brunswick; in addition to the lime dial, Studio Underd0g’s penchant for elegant dazzle...
Video
A few weeks ago, my mum called me and told me she’d found my old Pokémon cards, a collection I hadn’t seen in over 10 years. What I thought was just nostalgia quickly turned into something much bigger when I real...
Worn & Wound
One of the things we love about independent watchmaking is the ability for a brand to move swiftly on a project based on feedback from their clients, collaborators, and the watch world writ large. A new release from Collective and Armin Strom is a great example of how one good idea can quickly beget another, and in the grand scheme of things it really doesn’t even take that long. Not even two years ago, Collective and Armin Strom released the P.03 Gravity Equal Force, a creative take on one of Armin Strom’s signature designs. The concept behind the original release was to make this bit of high end watchmaking into something truly tactical, and its aesthetic was inspired by apparel, packs, and EDC tools in its finishing, color, and overall vibe. This new release, the P.03 “Night Ops,” takes that idea a step further, and does what arguably should have been done the first time around: blacking out the case. It seems obvious, right? When you think “tactical” in watchmaking, you probably think “black,” at least to some extent. I have to say, though, that until I heard Collective and Armin Strom were making this new edition, the thought never actually crossed my mind that the original should have been black. I think that speaks to the genuine novelty of that first watch. It’s so rare for a haute horlogerie brand like Armin Strom to dabble in EDC inspiration that the first try really sold me. The new Night Ops variant feels like a more fully realized version o...
Hodinkee
Plus a two-tone Cartier Roadster, and an IWC Portuguese Chronograph in green.
Hodinkee
Citizen does what it does best with this limited edition… and then it does some more.
Worn & Wound
Automotive inspired watches come in many different forms. There are watches that draw attention to aesthetic similarities between well understood components of cars and watches (dials that look like gauges on a dashboard, or even putting an automaker’s badge on the dial). And then there are watches that are, ostensibly, meant to be thought of as tools for motorsport – chronographs with tachymeter scales and the like. But there’s another category – the one I tend to prefer – that takes a more abstract approach. These are watches that are imbued with the feeling of driving in their design. Autodromo, of course, are masters at this. Their watches capture a driving aesthetic that doesn’t simply port over elements of vehicle design into a watch, and they use color and texture to evoke specific aspects of driving culture. The latest from Nodus, their second collaboration with automotive personality Matt Farah, is very much in that vein. The new Nodus Canyon in Sunset Orange follows the successful launch of the Mint colorway of the same watch last year (it sold out immediately to Farah’s Patreon subscribers). The watch, designed by Farah, is conceived as an everyday sports watch, with a 41mm stainless steel case that measures 11.5mm tall and 47mm from lug to lug. To look at the watch, you would not immediately clock it as automotive inspired, but it’s filled with subtle and personal details from Farah’s long history in the automotive world that will make it rewa...
Worn & Wound
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: The Ringer The Ringer Gives Their Power Rankings For Each Succession Episode Via The Ringer / HBO With the series finale in the books and a new CEO at the head of the table, the curtain has finally fallen on HBO’s hit dark-comedy drama, Succession. Buoyed by a number of dynamic acting talents, witty screen play, and an ever-twisting plot that always left us wanting more, the bittersweet ending has us all wondering, what will fill the void on Sunday’s at 9:00PM? Well, you could always re-watch the whole thing, or relive the entire series through this expansive power rankings list provided by the folks over at The Ringer. They’ve taken all 39 episodes, broken them down and even highlighted the one-liners we might’ve missed because let’s face it, that’s one of the best parts of the show and has even spawned an entertaining Instagram account in @nocontextsuccession. Just one pass through the ranking will give you an idea of just how many drastic plot changes and pivotal scenes there actually were, as well as all the laugh-out-loud moments, that you actuall...
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SJX Watches
With a knack for novel collaborations with partners ranging from industrial designers to guillocheurs, Louis Erard’s latest project brings on board Konstantin Chaykin. The result is Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time-Eater, a regulator-style wristwatch inspired by the Russian independent watchmaker’s signature “rolling eye” watches. Inspired by a one-eyed monster from Slavic folklore, the Time-Eater has a whimsical vibe that departs from Louis Erard’s more serious offerings like the recent example with a hand-made wood marquetry dial. It is available in either a 42 mm or 39 mm size, or both together in a two-piece box set. Initial thoughts Following its successful collaborations with other notable watchmakers, it’s perhaps no surprise that Louis Erard recruited Konstantin Chaykin. Earlier partnerships, with Vianney Halter for instance, broadened the appeal of the independent watchmakers by making the name accessible at a far lower price point. Despite Mr Chaykin’s specialty in avant-garde or fantastical designs, the Time-Eater is surprisingly restrained compared to his own creations, no doubt because it is based on the existing template of the Louis Erard regulator. As a result, it is not the full-blown Konstantin Chaykin watch that collectors might expect from the Russian watchmaker. But then again, the price of about US$4,000 means the Time-Eater is about the fifth a price of Mr Chaykin’s trademark Minion watch. The Time-Eater watch is...
Hodinkee
The Monaco is one of the most recognizable watches of the 20th century, so we're taking it back to square one.
Deployant
IWC Schaffhausen has unveiled the Big Pilot’s Watch Monopusher Edition “Le Petit Prince”, the first Big Pilot’s Watch with a chronograph function.
Hodinkee
Back in February, Jeff Stein wrote about the rise of the Heuer Skipperrera. Today he traces the history (and mystery) of another legendary Heuer chronograph.
Hodinkee
No Mickey Mouse here, just classic and excellent vintage watches.
Video
This it the story of when a gold Rolex was given to the first ever real world use of an ejection seat back in 1949.
Hodinkee
A trio of LEs with hand-wound movements and special engravings.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The new Citizen Eco-Drive Photon pairs Super Titanium construction with a dial that creates color through light alone.
Quill & Pad
One of Australia’s most respected and beloved wineries, Yalumba, has reached the extraordinary milestone of its 175th anniversary. As part of their celebrations, Yalumba hosted one of their famous Museum tastings. Few wine events anywhere are more popular. It's a tough job, but Ken Gargett takes one for the team.
Monochrome
The Chopard L.U.C XPS series, renowned for its grace and technical beauty, is a top choice for dress watches. Among the latest additions to this collection, the L.U.C XPS Forest Green stands out with its captivating dark green sector-style dial and lustrous Lucent Steel case. Another demonstration of what quiet luxury means! The new Chopard […]
Time+Tide
Deck the halls with badass blackness, fa la la la la, la la, la la. There are slow burn watches – the new Air-King, the Globemaster Annual Cal – and then there are immediate, towering infernos. The new Monza is the latter. It’s the least daggy retro piece of the year, and maybe ever. We … ContinuedThe post ADVENT CALENDAR 2016: December 7 – The TAG Heuer Monza ref. CR2080 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time for a Q&A! Thanks to everyone who sent in their questions! If you want to have one of your questions featured in my next episode, make sure to follow me on Instagram and subscribe to my channel to not miss out on...
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