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1969-1985 industry collapse triggered by the Seiko Astron. Cost Swiss watchmaking two-thirds of its workforce; rebounded via Swatch Group consolidation and Biver's Blancpain.
Christmas Day 1969: Seiko launches the world\'s first quartz wristwatch and detonates the Swiss watch industry.
Eight thousand pieces. One very specific shade of yellow. Seiko and Honda celebrate the Motocompo's 45th anniversary with a watch that's hard to ignore.
Seiko's Prospex Turtle HBB002 marks PADI's 60th anniversary. Electric sunburst blue dial, ceramic bezel insert, 200m water resistance, an 8,000-piece run, and a €750 price tag that puts it squarely in the impulse-buy bracket for a real diver.
Monochrome
Using the analogy of Grand Seiko and Seiko, Orient Star is the premium division of Orient watches (both part of Seiko Epson since 2017). Established in 1951, Orient Star produces more refined watches featuring complications and a characteristic Japanese balance of quality and value. Celebrating its 75th anniversary, Orient Star reimagines the design of its […]
Monochrome
In the ever-growing Seiko 5 Sports collection, there are classic models and then some pretty cool limited editions, either inspired by the past or produced in collaboration with brands or franchises that have not much to do with watchmaking (at least at first sight). That can be anything from Pepsi bezel watches actually made together […]
Monochrome
Founded in 1948 by Henry Belmont, Yema was France’s top producer and exporter by the 1960s. Renowned for legendary models such as the Superman, which appealed to professional and amateur divers alike, Yema went the way of many other mechanical watch brands during the quartz crisis and changed hands, including a stint with Seiko, until a French […]
Monochrome
Whenever movements are discussed, attention tends to focus on the Swiss, which is understandable, but it excludes some of the biggest movement manufacturers. Seiko, Miyota and so on, let alone the Chinese, produce far more movements per year on their own than ETA or Sellita do, for instance. To put this into some form of […]
SJX Watches
Orient Star marks a milestone with the M34 F8 Skeleton Hand Winding 75th Anniversary, combining the brand’s technically adept, manually wound skeleton calibre with a novel, laser-engraved meteorite pattern in a maximalist open-worked package. The M34 F8 Skeleton also stands out for the tech inside the mechanical movement: proprietary silicon escape wheel with a novel, optimistic geometry that helps the M34 punch above its weight from a technical standpoint. Initial thoughts Last year, Orient Star launched the brand’s first manually wound moon phase – made of mother-of-pearl no less – for fans of understated, formal watches. Now celebrating its 75th anniversary, Orient Star has cast aside restraint to mark the occasion with something for a more maximalist breed of collector. The new skeleton has a blacked-out case and bracelet and an open-worked version of its top-of-the-line F8 movement. Notably, the movement plates are bridges, which are exposed front and back, are decorated with a laser-etched meteorite motif that is impressively detailed. This skeletonised anniversary limited edition also features the latest technology from its powerhouse parent company Seiko Epson, including a silicon escape wheel with an especially advantageous design. While silicon is increasingly common in the watch industry, it is used primarily for hairsprings. This puts Orient on the list of short brands with a proprietary silicon escape wheel that includes blue-chip names like Patek Phil...
Teddy Baldassarre
As their name implies, sector-dial watches are recognizable for their vintage-inspired dial layout, with radial lines and concentric circles dividing the dial’s essential visual data - the hours, minutes, and seconds - into distinct segments. It’s a style that first made its way into watch design in the 1930s and ‘40s, the heyday of Art Deco, and at the time was almost certainly aimed at delivering an instrument-like legibility rather than any kind of stylish ornamentation. Today, however, the sector dial is enjoying a bit of a quiet renaissance mainly for aesthetic reasons, on a diverse array of timepieces. Whether the watch it adorns leans more toward “military tool” or “dressy accessory” in its appeal, the sector dial’s streamlined, subdivided look has proved to be anything but dated. Here are a dozen of our favorites on the market now. [toc-section heading="Seiko 5 Sports SRPH29"] Price: $315, Case Size: 39.4mm, Thickness: 13.2mm, Lug to Lug: 48.1mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Crystal: Hardlex, Water Resistance: 100 meters, Movement: Automatic 4R36 Seiko’s 5 Sports line takes its cues from a classic model from 1963, the Seiko 5 Sportsmatic, whose five named attributes include automatic movements, day/date displays in a single window, water resistance, a recessed crown at 4 o’clock, and a case made of durable materials. The value-oriented series speaks to military mavens and aviation enthusiasts with the SRPH29 model, which straddles the line between a v...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Seiko SSK059 white-dial GMT is finally available worldwide, bringing a 39mm mechanical GMT to global markets.
Worn & Wound
While design hallmarks have come and gone, few say “Grand Seiko” quite like the iconic Snowflake dial, first introduced in 2005. Inspired by the frosty Hotaka mountain range in the brand’s home prefecture, Nagano, light plays across the fine texture to emphasize the slight variations in depth on the surface of the dial. The result is nothing short of stunning, and helped shape Grand Seiko and their philosophy of the “Nature of Time”. So how do you build on an icon? You introduce tasteful variations. Easier said than done, of course, but Grand Seiko has done it successfully before, by introducing the Skyflake dial, a light blue version of the Snowflake. And now, we have two new Snowflake and Skyflake models to showcase the evolution of the icon: the SBGX359 and SBGX361, in a compact 33mm case, making them the smallest in the Grand Seiko 9F line yet. Even more impressive is the 9.1mm thickness, which is only possible thanks to the Caliber 9F51 quartz movement, which is the first new movement in the 9F line since 2020, and allows for an accuracy of ± 10 seconds a year. In natural Grand Seiko fashion, each movement is hand-assembled by watchmakers at the Shinshu Watch Studio at the brand’s Shiojiri facility and feature three-month aged quartz crystals and a manual regulation switch for accuracy fine-tuning during servicing. All of that is to say that this is not a basic quartz movement; it’s a Grand Seiko quartz movement, which is sure to excel in both function ...
Time+Tide
Erg Media have created a beautiful, photography-led coffee table book that tells and celebrates the history of this beloved Japanese brand.The post We read the Grand Seiko book so you don’t have to appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Longines Admiral Leading off this week we have a stylish vintage Longines dress watch. The 35mm yellow gold filled case is a classic round style with simple, straight lugs and a steel back. The case is unpolished, with nice crisp edges. The silver dial looks fantastic, with slim arrow markers and no pesky date window and sword style hands. The original crown is signed with the Longines winged hourglass logo as it should. The watch comes on the original Milanese mesh bracelet with a signed buckle. Very elegant and classy look overall. The watch comes with the inner and outer boxes as well as the instruction and warranty booklets. The case is a front-loading type and there are no pictures of the movement, however the watch runs well per the seller. View auction here Vintage Omega Geneve Dynamic Next up is a wild and unique vintage Omega Geneve Dynamic. This watch is about as pure 1970s funk as it gets! The 41mm wide horizontal oval case is superb and unpolished, with sharp edges and the original brushed finish. The crazy original strap doesn’t attach to lugs, instead it has a big hole in the middle that sits up against the case and is held on by the retaining ring on the bac...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Grand Seiko Snowflake gets smaller with new 33mm quartz models featuring the newly developed 9F51 movement.
Monochrome
It was hard not to love, or at least feel some tenderness towards the Orient Bambino models (especially the Classic) released by the brand to mark its 75th anniversary. We are tempted again with the M45 F7 Small Second, as Orient Star (established in 1951, part of Seiko Epson since 2017) expands its Classic Collection […]
Deployant
Grand Seiko extends their reach in the high accuracy, high end quartz watches with a new 9F movement encased in two new 33mm references.
Teddy Baldassarre
Before we get into the best Japanese watch brands for 2026, let's discuss Japan's role in watchmaking. Outside of Switzerland, Japan is probably the best-known watchmaking country, producing some of the world’s best watches in every category and at nearly every price point. When most people think about Japanese watches, their thoughts still likely envision mostly inexpensive and mostly quartz-powered watches from well-known, mass-market brands like Casio, Seiko, and Citizen. and to be sure, Japan is rightly regarded as a value leader in the global watch market, led by inexpensive but wildly popular and collectible watches like Casio's G-Shocks and Seiko's classically styled, automatic diver’s watches like the SKX series. However, Japan is also an excellent source for watches in the mid-level, luxury, and high-watchmaking categories, from both the country's handful of major players as well as from exciting, younger independent brands. [toc-section heading="Seiko"] At this point, Seiko is synonymous with Japanese watchmaking. The company was founded in 1881 by Kintaro Hattori and got its start by selling and repairing watches and clocks. Just 11 years later, Hattori started producing clocks and then pocket watches, followed closely by the company’s, and Japan’s, first wristwatch in 1913. The 1960s was a period of rapid growth for the company. Not only did Seiko introduce the first Grand Seiko watch and also Japan’s first dive watch, but the firm also gained interna...
Time+Tide
These two releases mark the slimmest and smallest-in-diameter Grand Seiko 9F quartz watches ever produced.The post Grand Seiko introduces its new 9F51 quartz calibre with the stylish SBGX359 and SBGX361 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko has installed its high-end quartz calibre 9F in a 33 mm stainless steel case with fan-favourite textured dials, making one of the most advanced analogue quartz movements available in the smallest and slimmest format to date. The compact proportions of the Grand Seiko Heritage Collection Quartz 33mm “Snowflake” SBGX359 and “Skyflake” SBGX361 are possible thanks to a new member of the 9F family: the cal. 9F51. Though smaller, the new calibre retains all the technical bells and whistles of this class-leading quartz platform. Ref. SBGX359 (Snowflake). Initial thoughts While Grand Seiko’s quartz models are generally known as good value propositions, with the cal. 9F in particular representing a lot of movement for the money, that has generally been less true of the brand’s smaller models. These maintain the brand’s standout case and dial work but with relatively pedestrian cal. 4J movements. Though above average in terms of quality and technology, the cal. 4J lacks the torque necessary to accommodate the exceptionally large and refined hands found on most Grand Seikos. Ref. SBGX361 (Skyflake). Given the brand’s recent emphasis on Spring Drive technology, seemingly at the expense of battery-powered quartz movements, that seemed unlikely to change. In this context, this duo is a pleasant surprise, with more likely to follow, and offers a no-compromise Grand Seiko experience in a smaller size without the high price tags of the ladies automatic line. A ...
Teddy Baldassarre
I still vividly remember the first time I saw the Seiko Speedtimer SSC813. It felt like one of the most deliberate and thoughtful nods to the brand’s 1960s and 1970s sports timekeeping heritage. Nicknamed the “Seitona” (no prizes for guessing why), it wore its classic panda dial with absolute confidence, easily earning itself a spot among some of Seiko’s most attractive sports watches ever made. Even better, it delivered those heritage-inspired racing aesthetics without the premium price tag associated with a Daytona. Now Seiko introduces a new triumvirate to the Speedtimer lineup: the SSC961, SSC963, and SSC965. This trio of Prospex watches draws from the angular sports cars of the 1980s and 1990s, showcasing distinctive shades of white-silver, sandy salmon, and mint green. But can these experimental colors of the new Seiko Speedtimer "Youngtimers" as they've come to be known capture the same motorsport DNA that made the beloved panda chronograph such a standout? [toc-section heading="Three New Dials"] The dial is unequivocally the soul of the new Seiko Prospex Speedtimer watch. In all three references, it sets the stage for a tri-register layout in the usual 3-6-9 arrangement. Here, the “Youngtimer” models embrace a nuanced and highly experimental palette. Each model features a 24-hour counter at 3 o’clock, balanced by a running seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock. Nestled between the two is the 60-minute chronograph register at 6 o’clock, combined with a pow...
Hodinkee
A brand new movement supports a downsized spin on a classic GS design.
Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko has one of the most expansive catalogs in the watch industry, which is key to the Japanese brand’s prowess, but its nuances can also make it quite overwhelming at times to sort through from a consumer perspective. Today, I’m going for hyperspecificity on multiple levels, not only focusing on the brand’s “Luxe” tier, but also on a specific series within that tier, and on one watch, well, specifically. As you’ve likely already noticed from this article's title, we’re gathered here today to jump into the deep end with the Presage Classics Craftsmanship Series SPB495. Though its name doesn’t exactly roll off the tongue, the Seiko Presage SPB495, to me, truly demonstrates the dynamic range to be found within the contemporary Seiko lineup, given that you have the patience to sort through the complexities of the brand’s collections and naming convention nuances. [toc-section heading="History And Context"] Seiko’s Craftsmanship series officially made its start in 2013 as the brand celebrated its centennial anniversary. Positioned within the larger Presage collection, this initiative has been a way for the brand to further enhance the collection's foundational elements, mainly being a mechanical line, guided by and harkening to Seiko’s centuries-long history, with a focused attention to its dials. Essentially, the Craftsmanship series adds in more sophisticated, high-end elements into the mix, paying tribute to many traditional, artisanal techniques th...
Fratello
Good morning, Fratelli, and welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown. Today will be a fully digital installment. When Seiko introduced the “Rotocall” re-editions, many enthusiasts got excited. The original ’80s watch, also known as the “Astronaut,” was used on many space missions, and its practical, uniquely designed bezel is a standout feature. We already put […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Seiko Rotocall Re-Editions Vs. Casio G-Shock Square In Steel to read the full article.
Monochrome
The Quartz Crisis of the 1970s and 1980s was a defining moment for the industry, to say the least. Following Seiko’s Astron in 1969, the first quartz watch to hit the market, a huge swathe of traditional brands closed down as cheap, extremely accurate and virtually maintenance-free Japanese quartz watches hit the streets. Add to […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
At 75 years old, Orient Star is releasing watches that challenge long-held Seiko assumptions among collectors.
Teddy Baldassarre
As we all well know by now, the watch-collecting hobby can get hyper-specific. Today, I am wading into the weeds of one of the most highly specialized sub-genres of the Seiko collecting universe, that of Japanese Domestic Market pieces from the brand, which I will be referring to here on out as JDM Seikos. Down below, I’m going to walk you through, first and foremost, what the term JDM Seiko actually means, then get into the most universally coveted models, and similar watches that you can more easily find in the brand’s international repertoire. [toc-section heading="JDM Seikos vs. “Japanese-Made”Seikos"] Image: Provenance Watches Given that Seiko is one of Japan’s most significant and historic watchmakers, you might be asking, as you find yourself here in this section, “Seiko is a Japanese brand, so aren’t all Seikos Japanese-Made?” As with most things, the answer is not as straightforward as the question. If we were to base our answer on the framework dictated by the U.S. Trade Commission standards, any watch that has a movement assembled in Japan is good enough to be considered Japanese-made. This casts a pretty wide net. Japan, on the other hand, follows the more rigorous parameters set by the APEC (Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation Forum). Based on APEC standards, a watch movement and dial components must be assembled in Japan to rightfully claim “Japanese Made” status. Across its catalog, if Seiko can rightly claim the “Japanese Made” label ...
Time+Tide
We're used to seeing plenty of microbrand mechaquartz chronographs, but here's what it looks like when Seiko cases its own movements.The post Seiko’s SSB477, SSB479 & SSB481 offer vintage chronograph style for under US$500 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Two Broke Watch Snobs
A closer look at the TRASKA Chronograph, featuring a Seiko NE86 column-wheel movement, hardened steel case, and unconventional subdial design.
Teddy Baldassarre
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko Speedtimer expands for 2026 with three new solar chronographs, offering classic 39mm sizing, everyday specs, and new dial options.
Teddy Baldassarre
In 2025, Grand Seiko released one of its most important watches of all time, the SLGB003. The UFA, also known as the Ultra Fine Accuracy, came equipped with a new caliber, the Spring Drive 9RB2. On the accuracy point, this was a breakthrough that measured precision not by the day, or even the month, but by the year. In
Fratello
It’s that time of the week again - time for another Sunday Morning Showdown! This time, Jorg and Mike face off in a battle of vintage-inspired daily wearers. Jorg picked the Longines Ultra-Chron Classic, which honors the original Longines Ultra-Chron from 1967. Mike’s pick is the King Seiko SJE089, which was inspired by the classic […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Longines Ultra-Chron Classic Vs. King Seiko SJE089 to read the full article.
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