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Results for Submariner

409 articles · 186 videos found · page 12 of 20

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Wiki · Guide
Crown Guards

Integral case projections protecting the crown from impact; introduced on Rolex Submariner ref. 5512 in 1959.
Reference · Guide
All Rolex Submariner References Rolex

Every Rolex Submariner from 1953 ref. 6204 to today: years, dials, bezels, movements, nicknames.
Icon · Guide
Submariner Rolex

The 1953 Rolex diver. James Bond's watch and the template every dive watch copies.
Wiki · Guide
The COMEX Submariner Story Rolex

French saturation-diving company COMEX (1961) and Rolex partnership 1967 onward. Drove the joint Rolex/Doxa invention of the Helium Escape Valve.
The Fratello x Jacques Bianchi “Night Diver” Has Arrived, Complete with a Fully Lumed Dial Worn & Wound
Omega due Jun 6, 2024

The Fratello x Jacques Bianchi “Night Diver” Has Arrived, Complete with a Fully Lumed Dial

Jacques Bianchi Marseille has teamed up with Fratello Watches to create a new iteration of their already popular JB200 PoulPro. The new variant released today is now dubbed the JB200 PoulPro “Night Diver”, due to its new nocturnal layout consisting of a black PVD case and a fully lumed dial, both features being a first for Jacques Bianchi.  Fratello is known for creating high quality and entertaining watch enthusiast content, and more specifically their infatuation with the Speedmaster that started with their founders creation of the #speedytuesday hashtag. Fratello has even collaborated with Omega due to the hashtag’s marketing success, and they’ve since branched out to create watch collaborations with many other watch brands just like this new Jacques Bianchi release. The JB200 diver was only just reissued in 2021, and it garnered some outstanding success due to demand from vintage watch lovers who were quite fond of the original from the early 1980s. The new “Night Diver” variant seen here is similar in many ways to the reissue, maintaining the 42mm case and 13.3mm thickness, as well as a lug to lug of 47mm.  The JB200 is relatively well proportioned on the wrist, although it does have a slightly heftier appearance when comparing to the benchmark Rolex Submariner 124060 with a 12mm thickness. Much of the fit disadvantage is offset by the rest of the specs, especially the lug to lug measurement which can at times be more important than the actual case size....

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The Incredible Nivada Grenchen F77 Stone Dials Worn & Wound
Nivada Grenchen F77 Stone Dials May 31, 2024

The Incredible Nivada Grenchen F77 Stone Dials

Of all the topics often discussed within the watch world, many are esoteric and maybe even a little silly to non watch enthusiasts. Inscrutable changes in text, minute differences measured in millimeters, you get the idea. To the average consumer, these things don’t mean much. To them, a glossy-dial Submariner 5513 with a gilt underline dial doesn’t look radically different to the current product (and that sentence just sounds crazy). One thing that will undoubtedly catch anyone’s attention, though, is a beautiful stone dial. Exotic dials can do more than just look pretty; they can imbue familiar watches with an entirely new character. Case in point: the Nivada Grenchen F77. Of all the topics often discussed within the watch world, many are esoteric and maybe even a little silly to non watch enthusiasts. Inscrutable changes in text, minute differences measured in millimeters, you get the idea. To the average consumer, these things don’t mean much. To them, a glossy-dial Submariner 5513 with a gilt underline dial doesn’t look radically different to the current product (and that sentence just sounds crazy). One thing that will undoubtedly catch anyone’s attention, though, is a beautiful stone dial. Exotic dials can do more than just look pretty; they can imbue familiar watches with an entirely new character. Case in point: the Nivada Grenchen F77. The post The Incredible Nivada Grenchen F77 Stone Dials appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Tudor Black Bay: A Comprehensive Guide to the Collection Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor May 7, 2024

Tudor Black Bay: A Comprehensive Guide to the Collection

The Tudor Black Bay took watch fandom by storm when it hit the market in 2012 and the sporty, vintage-inspired divers' watch has since grown into an extensive family with something for just about everyone, now boasting in-house calibers, multiple styles and sizes, and even some precious metals and complications. In this comprehensive guide we explore the origins of the Tudor Black Bay and showcase the standout models you can buy right now.  FOUNDATIONS OF TUDOR With an eye toward making watches that would be affordable while still maintaining a high level of quality, Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf registered the Tudor brand trademark in 1926, and began running the Tudor company as a subsidiary brand of Rolex in 1946. Tudor watches were the only watches on the market at the time that featured reliable third-party movements inside the famed waterproof Rolex Oyster case, also developed in 1926, and were initially more geared toward the tool watch market than were Rolex timepieces, which already enjoyed a reputation as luxury items. The first Tudor watch with the “Oyster” name followed shortly after the launch of the brand, in 1947, kicking off a long tradition of timepieces suitable for underwater adventure. The first Tudor Prince model followed in 1952, around the same time that Tudor began an R&D; partnership with the French Navy (Marine Nationale), from which would emerge the brand’s first dive watch. THE OYSTER PRINCE SUBMARINER The Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner, Tu...

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Tudor Black Bay Fifty Eight: Our Guide to All the Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Apr 26, 2024

Tudor Black Bay Fifty Eight: Our Guide to All the Watches

Tudor returned to the U.S. market after a lengthy absence in 2013 and the Rolex-owned brand had its first big hit in this modern era with the launch of the Black Bay (originally the Heritage Black Bay), a stylish, sporty divers’ watch, with a plethora of historical details drawn from Tudor dive watches of yore. In 2018, in response to growing consumer demand both for more modest case sizes and for greater period authenticity in vintage-style timepieces, Tudor introduced the Black Bay Fifty-Eight, which proved to hit the sweet spot for many contemporary enthusiasts. Named for the year 1958, in which Tudor released the Oyster Prince Submariner Ref. 7924, the most clear forerunner to the Black Bay, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight models match that watch’s 39mm case diameter, which is downsized from the 41mm-to-43mm sizes still common to the core Black Bay series. Since its launch, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight has become one of the most popular extensions of the expanding Black Bay collection, and has been the stage for Tudor’s recent (and historically rare) forays into the realm of precious metals. Descended From a Prince: Black Bay DNA The aesthetic origin of the Black Bay starts with the Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner, released in 1954, one year after big brother Rolex rolled out its own much more famous purpose-built dive watch, also called the Submariner. This original version, Ref. 7922, used the same “Mercedes” handset found on many Rolex models and was water-resistan...

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Rolex GMT-Master II: The Ultimate Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Apr 24, 2024

Rolex GMT-Master II: The Ultimate Guide

The Rolex GMT-Master II is one of the most coveted luxury travel watches on the planet, and its predecessor, the original, non-numerical GMT-Master, basically established the template that other dual-time zone timepieces have been following for more than half a century. Here is a detailed look at the history and evolution of the GMT-Master II, from its aviation-inspired beginnings in 1954 to the iconic status it enjoys in the modern era, with all the major models spotlighted in between. 1954: “PEPSI” FOR PILOTS Rolex, the luxury watch firm founded in 1905 by Hans Wilsdorf, achieved one of its many milestones in 1953 with the launch of the Oyster Perpetual Submariner, the first serially produced wristwatch with a case water-resistant to 100 meters and hence one of the first and most influential watches purpose-built for diving. If the watch community was wondering what Rolex could possibly do for an encore, they didn’t have long to discover the answer. The following year, 1954, saw the introduction of another trend-setting, genre-defining timepiece, the original Rolex GMT-Master (Ref. 6542, which actually hit the market in 1955), the first watch capable of displaying the time in two separate time zones thanks to the clever addition of a fourth, central 24-hour hand and a bidirectional rotating 24-hour bezel. The initials in the watch’s name signify “Greenwich Mean Time,” the system of world timekeeping based on the calculation of mean solar time from the Royal ...

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Hands On: Rolex Perpetual 1908 in Platinum “Ice Blue” SJX Watches
Rolex Perpetual 1908 Apr 24, 2024

Hands On: Rolex Perpetual 1908 in Platinum “Ice Blue”

When Rolex surprised with the launch of the 1908 last year, we liked it – Brandon Moore wrote a positive review. Now Rolex has followed up with the Perpetual 1908 in platinum (ref. 52506) with an “ice blue” guilloché dial of notably high quality. Though identical in almost all respects to the versions in gold, the new 1908 is very different – and significantly more compelling. Initial thoughts Done the traditional way with a hand-operated machine, the guilloché dial gives the watch an entirely different character. The pale blue is also more modern and striking than last year’s colours, which were fairly old fashioned. At the same time, the dial has a slightly glossy finish that gives it an even brighter hue. The guilloché transforms the dial, which was fairly staid in the earlier models. I would still do away with the peculiar hands inspired by the Submariner and other sports watches, but the dial is attractive as it is. The dial is engraved on a hand-operated rose engine Not only does it look better, the platinum 1908 also feels more appealing. It has the same slim profile as the gold versions, but has more heft thanks to the denser case material. More generally, it has the same tactile quality as all Rolex watches – it feels tangibly well made despite the compact size. While the dial is impressive artisanal quality, the rest of the watch is outstanding industrial quality. Though the case is thin, it is exceptionally robust and solid, as is the screw-down ...

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Tudor Debuts A Monochromatic Black Bay 41 SJX Watches
Tudor Debuts Apr 14, 2024

Tudor Debuts A Monochromatic Black Bay 41

Last year, Tudor revealed an updated version of its classical diver, the Black Bay 41 with a refreshed crown, bracelet, and bezel designs. Initially presented with a rich burgundy-hued bracelet, the brand has now introduced a more monochrome aesthetic, showcasing a new black dial accentuated by silver markers. Initial thoughts This year’s latest release is interesting to say the least. It encapsulates the enduring allure of traditional dive watches, but the modern color scheme takes from the classic allure. Unlike its predecessor, the new model does away with any gilt accents – which bestows this timepiece with a more minimalist and utilitarian aesthetic. True to Tudor’s tradition, the value proposition remains exceptional. Priced at US$4,225 for the steel model with a rubber strap (slightly higher with bracelet options, whether the five-link version or the vintage-inspired riveted bracelet), it compares favourably with similar sports watches. The Black Bay’s winning formula lies in its straightforward design with classic cues, excellent craftsmanship, and accessible price, solidifying its status as a compelling diver choice. Last year’s Black Bay 41 with its burgundy red bezel and gilt accents A black and silver livery One questionable aspect of the revamped design is the similarity it bears to the modern Rolex Submariners. The clean, silvered accented black dial resembles the iconic Submariner more than ever. Save for the new uniform colour scheme, the watch ha...

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Rolex Introduces the All-Gold Deepsea Ref. 136668 LB SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces Apr 13, 2024

Rolex Introduces the All-Gold Deepsea Ref. 136668 LB

Rolex has unveiled a luxe version of one of its top-of-the-line divers, the Deepsea ref. 136668 LB, which boasts a blue lacquer dial paired with a yellow gold case and bracelet. The timepiece makes a significant statement while preserving all the depth performance associated with its steel Deepsea Sea-Dweller. Initial thoughts Rolex has been hinting at forthcoming novelties on social media for a while, sparking anticipation among enthusiasts like myself who speculated that perhaps a new Submariner model was in development. However, the brand surprised us with something pretty unexpected. The new Deepsea features the iconic blue and yellow gold colour scheme reminiscent of past Submariner models, which adds a touch of nostalgia to the release. With a diameter of 44 mm, this watch carries considerable weight, especially with its heavy yellow gold construction, which adds substantial heft to the wrist. Priced at US$52,100, it far surpasses the cost of comparable steel models, which are roughly a third of its price. However, considering the solid yellow gold construction, the price is fitting, considering the current market climate. Blue and yellow gold  The latest model is a successor to the steel Deepsea Sea-Dweller. It maintains the renowned pressure-resistant architecture, with a ceramic compression ring and the Ringlock system for the bezel. Sporting a vibrant blue hue, the bezel, compression ring and dial all sharply contrast with the gilded gold lettering on the dial a...

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Tudor Introduces the Black Bay 58 18K SJX Watches
Breitling Apr 10, 2024

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay 58 18K

In a surprising move, Tudor is launching the Black Bay 58 18K (ref. 79018V-006) at Watches & Wonders 2024. Essentially the same watch as the 2021 model, the new 58 18K now sports a matching yellow-gold bracelet, whereas it was formerly only offered on a leather or fabric strap. The dial and the bezel remain in the same green colourway, with gilt markings that match the hue of the yellow-gold case and bracelet. The 39 mm case is complemented by an oversized crown embossed with the Tudor rose logo, while widely cut bevels on the lugs provide a pleasing contrast to the brushed finish of the case. Initial thoughts While the Black Bay 58 18K won’t have as much of a wide appeal as the Black Bay 58 GMT – simply as a matter of affordability – it is a perfect update for a model that looked incomplete on a strap. And the bracelet itself is noteworthy. I like fact that it does away with the fake rivets found on the steel models. The cleaner look feels more modern and functional. At US$32,100, the Black Bay 58 18K is far beyond the usual price range of Tudor, but arguably delivers a competitive value proposition as far as an all-gold diver’s watch goes. Granted, the price is not far off from the Rolex Submariner in gold, which retails for US$39,000, but relative to the competition (such as Omega and Breitling), it is perhaps the most competitive in its segment. All gold and no rivets The Black Bay 58 18K notably features a solid gold bracelet equipped with a “T-fit” clasp ...

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Introducing – The Rolex Deepsea 136668LB in 18k Yellow Gold with Blue Dial and Bezel Monochrome
Rolex Deepsea 136668LB Apr 9, 2024

Introducing – The Rolex Deepsea 136668LB in 18k Yellow Gold with Blue Dial and Bezel

The Rolex Submariner and Sea-Dweller are iconic diving watches that have achieved legendary status in horology. Originally launched in 2008, the Deepsea is Rolex’s hardcore diving instrument with a water resistance of 3,900 meters (and 11,000 meters for the Deepsea challenge of 2022). The model was updated at Baselworld 2018 with the reference 126660 featuring […]

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The Speake Marin Ripples Infinity Date is One of the Best Named Watches and Coolest Under the Rader Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch Options Around Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko comes Apr 1, 2024

The Speake Marin Ripples Infinity Date is One of the Best Named Watches and Coolest Under the Rader Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch Options Around

I have a small obsession with watch naming conventions. I’m absolutely fascinated by the decisions brands make in what to call their watches. Some brands, for example, use only reference numbers, and collectors wind up giving the most popular watches nicknames (Grand Seiko comes to mind, although last year saw a notable exception to the rule). Then there are countless brands that incorporate language of adventure, particularly on high seas, into watch names: the Submariner, the Supermarine, the Sea-Rambler, and on, and on, and on, and on. And of course there are brands that steal a strategy from car manufacturers (or is it the other way around?) and give their watches names in one of the Romance Languages, an attempt to instill a sense of class and taste. But what I like are the simple and punchy names that get right to the root of what the watch is about. Memorable, sometimes funny names that communicate an ethos and make you go, “Oh yeah, of course,” all at once. The Speake Marin Ripples is one of my all time favorites.  The Ripples is Speake Marin’s take on the integrated bracelet sports watch, a category that seems about as far afield as you might get from the brand’s roots, but that’s a story for another day. In my opinion, the Ripple is one of the most distinctive integrated bracelet designs to come on the scene in this recent period during which everyone under the sun has tried their hand at this type of watch. It belongs, I think, in the same conversat...

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Assouline Updates their Massive Rolex Coffee Table Book Worn & Wound
Rolex Coffee Table Book Assouline Mar 21, 2024

Assouline Updates their Massive Rolex Coffee Table Book

Assouline is known as a brand that reflects the finer things in life. As a standard-bearer of fine art, culture, and lifestyle, Assouline has solidified its reputation as a premier publisher synonymous with sophistication. Wherever the haute monde is, Assouline is sure to follow with one of their well-designed, beautifully curated coffee table books. Their latest edition, Rolex: The Impossible Collection, 2nd Edition is an especially exciting release for the horologically-inclined, focusing on the one-hundred watches that define the brand’s legacy and rich history. Within the pages of The Impossible Collection, readers will get a chance to explore the various ways in which Rolex has entered the cultural consciousness. From the first wristwatch dating to the early 1900s and the first Oyster Perpetual from 1931, to an Explorer worn during Sir Edmund Hillary’s expedition to the summit of Mount Everest in 1953 and the Submariner worn by actor George Lazenby in the James Bond film On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, this book acts as a reflection of a brand which has stood at the cross-section of adventure, style, and sportsmanship. For the casual collector to the fanatics among us, Assouline’s attention to detail and design in The Impossible Collection will inspire readers while making a handsome companion for your library. Every page is carefully designed to elevate the reading experience, while leaving the page clean and uncluttered, so every watch has room to shine. Ro...

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Citizen Unveils their Latest Washi Paper Dials from “The Citizen” Collection Worn & Wound
Citizen Unveils their Latest Washi Mar 20, 2024

Citizen Unveils their Latest Washi Paper Dials from “The Citizen” Collection

As I’ve gotten more and more involved in the watch world over the years, something that’s become a great interest to me is accessible craft in watchmaking. We all know that you can spend five figures (or more) on a watch and get a movement with meticulously hand finished and polished bevels, for instance, but what I’m really drawn to is the brands that are able to do impressive things the old fashioned way at more accessible price points. Think of anOrdain’s enamel dials, for instance, or the handmade silver cases from James Lamb. We frequently look to smaller operations for this kind of work, but large brands are capable of surprising us with unusual craft techniques as well, and we were reminded of that a few weeks with the introduction of a pair of new watches by Citizen using their impressive Washi paper dials.  These watches fall into The Citizen collection from Citizen, one of my favorite names for a collection, even as it drives my editor brain kind of insane. Yes, the watches are called “The Citizen” in the same way the iconic diver made by Rolex is the “Submariner.” I’ll be honest, I don’t know the origin of the use of the definite article in the collection’s name, or anything about the decision to name these watches after the brand itself. Frankly, I don’t want to know, because I like the story I’ve created in my head of Citizen creating a collection that they feel perfectly defines their brand to such a degree that you could call it Th...

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I Got My Hands On The Very Green Zenith Chronomaster Sport Watch This Monday Morning Fratello
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Watch Mar 11, 2024

I Got My Hands On The Very Green Zenith Chronomaster Sport Watch This Monday Morning

What happens when you leave a Rolex Submariner “Hulk” and a Daytona in a room overnight? You get the Zenith Chronomaster Sport in its very green attire. Did I offend any Rolex and/or Zenith fans? It was my initial thought when I saw the press pictures of the Chronomaster Sport on a bracelet (ref. 03.3119.3600/56.M3100) […] Visit I Got My Hands On The Very Green Zenith Chronomaster Sport Watch This Monday Morning to read the full article.

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A Guide to Modern California Dials Worn & Wound
Panerai which has featured watches Feb 16, 2024

A Guide to Modern California Dials

The watch industry is rife with examples of watch brands turning to the past for new releases. The interest in vintage designs has led to some fun and unique long-forgotten or long-inaccessible designs finding a new audience. Consider the Timex World Time 1972 Reissue bringing some 70s funk to the 2020s. Or the Tudor Black Bay 54 giving Rolex Submariner fans the closest thing you can get to an original Sub without spending tens of thousands of dollars. And now, in the last few years watch brands have seen fit to revisit one of the most interesting and obscure vintage designs out there: the California dial. The California dial is the nickname given to watches that have Roman numerals on the upper half of the watch and Arabic on the lower half, typically with lines at the 3, 6, and 9 o’clock spots and a triangle at the 12. This unique dial has a strong association with Panerai, which has featured watches with the dial in its catalog for some time now, but, like many developments in watchmaking, it was actually created by Rolex. Patented in 1942, the dial was originally known as the “error-proof” dial, designed to be more easily read because the different style numerals “clearly distinguishes these two halves” of the watch and “the Roman numerals chosen are those which are the simplest to perform and the easiest to read.” (Seems unnecessary, but it certainly wound up looking cool.) The modern PAM01349 The error-proof dial picked up the “California” moniker w...

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Breitling Top Time Watch Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Breitling Feb 13, 2024

Breitling Top Time Watch Guide

When you think of James Bond watches, the first models that likely come to mind would probably be from Omega, or Rolex, or - depending on which Bond era you prefer - maybe even Seiko. But one of the most memorable wristwatch scenes in Bond’s cinematic history has a Breitling as its star.   In 1965’s Thunderball, the fourth movie in the popular series starring Ian Fleming’s Agent 007, star Sean Connery spends most of his screen time wearing the same watch that he wore in his previous three outings as Bond: a Rolex Submariner Ref. 6538, now known by many collectors as the quintessential “James Bond Rolex.” However, in one key scene, Bond swaps out the Submariner for another watch: a heavily modified Breitling Top Time Ref. 2002, a steel-cased, black-dialed chronograph with two white subdials, applied baton hour markers, and a tachymeter scale surrounding the dial. (The actual watch is pictured above, sans strap, photo via Christie's.) In the movie’s fictional universe, the watch - one of many gadget-packed timepieces assigned to Bond by MI-6 weapons supplier Q throughout the film series - is also equipped with a built-in Geiger counter; Bond uses it to track a cache of stolen nuclear warheads hidden deep underwater by his adversaries from the criminal organization SPECTRE.  The watch was the only Breitling ever worn by any James Bond actor on screen - though, interestingly enough, another Breitling, a Navitimer 806, also appeared briefly in Thunderbal...

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Why I Bought a Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 with White Dial It the Day Before it was Discontinued – Reprise Quill & Pad
Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 Feb 11, 2024

Why I Bought a Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 with White Dial It the Day Before it was Discontinued – Reprise

After years of consideration, Bhanu Chopra took the plunge and bought both a Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 mm and a Submariner Reference 114060. And less than 24 hours after finally taking ownership of them, Rolex discontinued both watches! Here he shares the story of how it all went down. Spoiler alert: he couldn't be happier!

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REVIEW: Hands On With The Squale MATIC Australian Limited Edition WatchAdvice
Squale Feb 3, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The Squale MATIC Australian Limited Edition

We’ve gone hands on with the Australian limited edition Squale MATIC, sold exclusively through StarBuy. Here’s what we think! What We Love The green gradient dialWearability for a large watchTropic strap is very comfortable in Summer What We Don’t Crown at 4 o’clock is hard to useDomed crystal reflects a lot of lightNot for the faint of wrist Overall Rating: 8/10 Value for money: 7.5/10Wearability: 7.5/10Design: 8/10Build quality: 9/10 Squale may not be a brand you would have heard mentioned too often. It dates back to the 50’s when Charles and Helene Von Buren established the Von Büren SA watch factory in Neuchâtel, Switzerland. Being passionate divers, their focus was on developing watches specifically for underwater use, which at the time in 1950 was 3 years prior to the Submariner and Fifty Fathoms making their debut. However, it would be almost 10 years before they are able to obtain a patent and register the Squale brand name, and then another 3 before their first watches would hit the market in 1962. The rest as they say is history (quite literally) and today, the brand is still solely focused on dive watches and what you would call a quintessential tool watch. They’re designed for a purpose – to be easy to use and read underwater with maximum legibility and functionality. They’re less a fashion statement, but then again, most watches that are fashionable were originally intended as something else. The form is now greater than the function they’v...

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[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Havid Nagan HN00 Worn & Wound
Rolex   Jan 18, 2024

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Havid Nagan HN00

I think there’s a certain trajectory to watch collecting that the vast majority of enthusiasts will be familiar with. It’s been discussed at length, and might even represent something of a self fulfilling prophecy at this point. It goes something like this: you start out with the fan favorite affordables, dabble in big Swiss brands that take a depreciation hit and can be found readily on enthusiast buy/sell/trade platforms, discover the insane variety and value of microbrands, and then eventually, if it’s a brand that has meant something to you before you even knew that watch collecting was a thing, you wind up at Rolex.  This is vastly oversimplified of course, but a version of this has happened to me and many collectors I know personally. Muy own observation though is that it’s what happens next that really determines where you go in the hobby. Because there’s a path where you just keep acquiring Rolex sports watches like Pokemon. There’s absolutely nothing wrong with that – they are objectively excellent watches to own. But I think a certain number of collectors have a Tony Soprano, late season 6 moment sometime after picking up that GMT-Master or Submariner, and ask themselves: is this all there is? $8000 Hands-On: the Havid Nagan HN00 Case Titanium Movement Schwarz-Etienne ASE200 Dial Plum Lume Yes, hands and markers Lens Sapphire Strap Leather Water Resistance 100 meters Dimensions 40.7 x 49mm Thickness 11.6mm Lug Width 22mm Crown Push/pull Warranty Ye...

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Oris Divers Sixty-Five Review Teddy Baldassarre
Oris Dec 21, 2023

Oris Divers Sixty-Five Review

The Oris Divers Sixty-Five collection has found a receptive and substantial audience since its introduction in 2015, firmly establishing itself as one the Swiss brand's most versatile and creatively innovative product families. Whether it's the retro appeal of its original 1960s design, the exclusivity of the Carl Brashear editions, or the playful pastels of the Cotton Candy models, the Oris Diver Sixty-Five has something for just about any type of watch enthusiast. Here is a comprehensive rundown of the line, from its mid-sixties inspiration to today.  1965: The Original Waterpoof Oris started making watches in 1904 in the Swiss town of Hölstein, where it is still based today. The brand made its first purpose-built dive watch in 1965, naming it the Oris Waterproof and targeting the era’s growing masses of recreational diving enthusiasts - many of whom were likely seeking a more affordable alternative to prohibitively priced genre pioneers like the Rolex Submariner and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. The Waterproof was a product of its time, with a case made of chromium-plated brass, a crystal made of Plexiglas, and a strap made of sturdy but decidedly non-luxurious black rubber. The case, with a dive-scale bezel that rotated in both directions, measured a rather modest 36mm and housed a manually wound mechanical movement, the 17-jewel Oris Caliber 654; at the time, Oris made most of its own movements in-house. This historical divers’ model (above, right), while never a...

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Raketa’s Dive Watch is Made from a Recycled Nuclear Submarine SJX Watches
Raketa Dec 21, 2023

Raketa’s Dive Watch is Made from a Recycled Nuclear Submarine

The Raketa Sonar is a unique take on a dive watch. Featuring a funky, 1970s design with a colourful, 24-hour display – that was designed with the help of a Soviet navy captain – the Sonar has 200 m of water resistance. Two versions are available, a regular production and a limited edition – but it’s the latter that stands out. Both have steel cases, but the limited edition Sonar Kashalot has a bezel fabricated from titanium taken from the hull of the K-322 Kashalot, an Akula-class nuclear submarine that was deployed by the Soviet navy and decommissioned in 2019. Initial thoughts Known for its ostentatiously retro styling strongly evocative of Soviet-era timekeepers, Raketa sticks to its specialty with the Sonar. The design follows the mantra of form follows function: every aspect is catered to someone working in a nuclear-powered submariner. The 24-hour scale, for example, is useful since there is neither night nor day in a submarine. While the execution may not be to everyone’s taste, the originality of the concept is unmistakable. Recycled metal from Soviet nuclear submarines aren’t exactly rare – the Kashalot weighed over 14,000 tonnes fully loaded – but it gives the Sonar an additional degree of novelty and appeal. The submarine-titanium bezel is, however, substantially more expensive and only found on the limited edition. The standard model costs €1,900, and is the quality is as expected for the price. Raketa has improved its quality in recent years,...

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A Conversation with Jack Carlson About His Latest Rowing Blazers Collaboration with Zodiac, and His Watch Collecting Evolution Worn & Wound
Zodiac Dec 8, 2023

A Conversation with Jack Carlson About His Latest Rowing Blazers Collaboration with Zodiac, and His Watch Collecting Evolution

Jack Carlson is ending 2023 how he started it: With a Zodiac collaboration.  The new Rowing Blazers x Zodiac “Rouchefoucauld” Super Sea Wolf World Timer follows January’s Rowing Blazers x Zodiac Harry’s Bar Super Sea Wolf, and is just the latest in a line of playful watch collaborations from Carlson’s clothing brand-this one with a subtle nod to Trading Places, the the 1983 classic comedy starring Eddie Murphy and Dan Aykroyd. In the film, Akroyd’s WASPy Louis Winthorpe III tries to pawn his (fictional) watch, the Rochefoucauld, which he describes as “the sports watch of the 80s,” with the notable detail that it tells time in Monte Carlo, Beverly Hills, London, Paris, Rome, and Gstaad. “It’s not a real watch of course-but for a long time, I’ve thought: this should exist,” said Carlson. The Rouchefoucauld nod is peak Rowing Blazers: preppy and fun, with a touch of whimsy. It’s a sensibility that is found not just in RB’s watches, but in Carlson’s personal watch collection as well. He owns some of the classics, of course, like a Seiko SKX, and a no-date Rolex Submariner and Rolex GMT-Master from the 1980s, but Carlson has a taste for the colorful and unique. Take, for example, the digital Pac-Man watch, Mickey Mouse Timex, and Tin-Tin watch that can be found in his watch box. Or the Domino’s-branded Rolexes, which the pizza brand used to give to franchisees who hit certain sales goals and which Carlson now collects. Carlson called the wat...

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