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Defining a New Era of French Watchmaking Worn & Wound
Feb 12, 2025

Defining a New Era of French Watchmaking

Today, if you ask nearly anyone, “What’s the epicenter of watchmaking?” the answer will resoundingly be, “Switzerland,” but you might be surprised to learn its neighbor to the west is largely responsible for the birth of modern watchmaking as we know it. In France, the earliest clocks date back to the Middle Ages, primarily used by clergymen. Fast forward a few hundred years, you’ll find the first “wearable clocks” emerging in France by the end of the 1400s.  Over the next couple hundred years, watchmaking became an increasingly thriving industry in France. However, the horological community experienced its first disruption in 1685. That year, King Louis XIV revoked of the Edict of Nantes, which had granted the minority Calvinist Protestants of France, also known as Huguenots, substantial rights in the nation, which was predominantly Catholic at the time. As a result of the revocation, there was a mass exodus of Huguenots from France across the border to Switzerland, many of whom were-you guessed it-watchmakers.  King Louis XIV Still, the real golden age of French watchmaking came in the 1700s in conjunction with another major moment for the country: the Age of Enlightenment. During this time, Paris became the heart of the watchmaking industry. Here, in the Île de la Cité (one of two natural islands in the Seine River right in the center of the City of Light), is the Place Dauphone, a public square on the western end of the island opposite the ico...

Seiko Introduces Prospex Alpinist GMT SPB493J Limited Edition Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Feb 12, 2025

Seiko Introduces Prospex Alpinist GMT SPB493J Limited Edition

Seiko’s Alpinist collection is welcoming a new member this week with the release of a new GMT reference featuring a dial inspired by the hornbill, a tropical bird of Southeast Asia. The watch is a Land Alpinist using the brand’s 6R54 caliber, and while this is an existing configuration released back in 2023, there are a few unique details here worth noting - from dial textures and colors to the black bezel piece. This watch is not only a celebration of the majestic hornbill, but also an expansion of the Alpinist platform that goes beyond the existing framework, hopefully opening the door to more expressive variations moving ahead. The Alpinist GMT was released in 2023 in what felt like a very natural move for the collection. As part of the Prospex Land family, the new Alpinist references utilized a fixed, 24-hour steel bezel and an internally rotating compass bezel. Use of the 6R54 allowed the addition of a 24-hour hand into the mix; however this is the so-called “caller” style of GMT hand, meaning the hour hand cannot be set independently on the go. Still, it’s a welcome addition to the modern series carrying forth Seiko’s historic Alpinist name, and retains the charming design of the original. This newest reference to the collection is the SPB493J, and it mixes up the formula just enough to stand apart from the rest. This watch uses base blacks set against the steel 39.5mm case and bracelet, with the inclusion of a deep green color used for the rotating inn...

Bring This Watch Back: Breitling Chronoliner Teddy Baldassarre
Breitling Feb 11, 2025

Bring This Watch Back: Breitling Chronoliner

Breitling is known historically for two specialties: chronographs and pilot’s watches. Despite the very real popularity of its Superocean dive watches, the legendary status of  high-tech “smart” models like the analog-digital Emergency, and the renewed dress-watch cred attained by the elegant Premier collection, it is the models most closely associated with both flying and timing — the Chronomat and Navitimer — that continue to best embody Breitling’s DNA, at least to most savvy enthusiasts.  However, both the Chronomat and the Navitimer possess distinctive features that might be, for lack of a better descriptor, polarizing. The former has those angular rider tabs around the bezel and that big, bulbous crown; the latter sports that emblematic, circular slide-rule scale that dominates the dial, which looks cool yet busy and which few wearers actually know how to use. Both are luxurious, impeccably designed watches with sporty, tool-oriented origins rooted in aviation and navigation, but neither is really a gent’s dress chronograph in the traditional sense of the phrase. To be fair, Breitling does make a chronograph family that strives for both utility and elegance — that would be the previously mentioned Premier — but as it’s not aviation-minded in its aesthetic, it’s not “quintessential Breitling” for many folks. For a short while, however — from 2015 to around 2020 or so — Breitling made such a watch, even positioning it in the market as it...

Introducing – This Silently Released Full-Platinum Omega Speedmaster 321 is a 6-Digit Endgame Speedy Monochrome
Omega Speedmaster 321 Feb 10, 2025

Introducing – This Silently Released Full-Platinum Omega Speedmaster 321 is a 6-Digit Endgame Speedy

Back in early 2019, Omega announced the comeback of the legendary Calibre 321 – or at least a faithful recreation of the movement that powered the brand’s emblematic Speedmaster from its introduction in 1957 until around 1968, when the brand switched to the more reliable Calibre 861. The first watch with this historic movement inside […]

Introducing – Bucherer Releases 3 High-End Exclusive Watches from Chopard, Girard-Perregaux and Ulysse Nardin Monochrome
Girard-Perregaux Feb 10, 2025

Introducing – Bucherer Releases 3 High-End Exclusive Watches from Chopard, Girard-Perregaux and Ulysse Nardin

Bucherer, one of the world’s oldest and most esteemed watch retailers, now owned by Rolex, has long been a leader in the industry, and for a few years, offers its customers exclusive access to limited-edition timepieces created in collaboration with renowned partner brands. For years, collectors and enthusiasts have enjoyed unique adaptations of existing models, […]

Zenith and Revolution Team Up for a Third Limited Edition “Cover Girl” in Carbon Fiber Worn & Wound
Zenith Feb 10, 2025

Zenith and Revolution Team Up for a Third Limited Edition “Cover Girl” in Carbon Fiber

The period between LVMH Watch Week and Watches & Wonders is usually pretty quiet on the watch release front, but Zenith teamed up with Revolution to drop a new edition of their ongoing series of “Cover Girl” reissues that is almost certainly the most radical rethinking of the concept yet. We’ve covered both of the previous Zenith x Revolution collaborations that sought to resurface one of the most famous references in Zenith’s vast archive. The first, introduced in 2020, was a fairly straightforward recreation of the vintage reference. The second was a titanium version, and just a little more esoteric. The third, though, is a real departure, crafted from carbon fiber for a dramatically different look and wearing experience.  The headline here is the weight. On a hook and loop strap, the Cover Girl Carbon weighs just 55 grams, significantly lighter than even the titanium version released a few years ago. It’s a little more if you opt for the full carbon fiber bracelet, but more on that in a minute. The case is in the classic A384, tonneau shape, which measures 37mm in diameter and 12.5mm tall. According to Zenith and Revolution, the carbon fiber used here is of the high modulus variety, similar to what’s seen in high end bicycles and sports cars.  The dial is also made from carbon fiber, which creates a coherent and aggressive look for the entire piece. It’s matte black and features the same “shark tooth” outer register that is common to the other Cover ...

Pre-Owned Spotlight: Neo-Vintage And Recent Pre-Owned Rolex Submariner Opportunities Fratello
Rolex Submariner Opportunities Feb 10, 2025

Pre-Owned Spotlight: Neo-Vintage And Recent Pre-Owned Rolex Submariner Opportunities

The Rolex Submariner is one of my all-time favorite watches, and I am not alone. It is so widely loved that we almost don’t see it for what it is anymore. The Sub’s ubiquity makes it feel like an obvious, unimaginative choice. This, however, does gross injustice to its status as a benchmark and example […] Visit Pre-Owned Spotlight: Neo-Vintage And Recent Pre-Owned Rolex Submariner Opportunities to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 16202 Vs. Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 You blink Feb 9, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 16202 Vs. Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222

You blink once, and it is Sunday again! Fear not - we have another big horological battle prepared to help you softly transition into action this morning. This week, we pit the Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 against the iconic Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” 16202. It is the watch world’s latest darling reissue versus the […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 16202 Vs. Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 to read the full article.

REVIEW:  IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Automatic 40 In A Beautiful Obsidian Black WatchAdvice
IWC  Schaffhausen Portugieser Automatic 40 Feb 7, 2025

REVIEW:  IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Automatic 40 In A Beautiful Obsidian Black

The IWC Portugieser Automatic 40 is a stunning embodiment of luxury and timeless style, drawing its roots from the heritage of the iconic Reference 325 model. In this review, I explore one of the most striking colour combinations to fully appreciate what makes this timepiece stand out. What We Love The black obsidian dial perfectly complements the 18k 5N gold case ideally sized to suit even small wrists A timeless design that references the original Prortugieser Reference 325. What We Don’t With a case thickness of 12.4mm, the watch’s water resistance of 30m seems too little. The lack of a date window may deter those who want a dress watch with this feature. Sixty seconds constant sub-counter needs to be a few shades darker to more closely match with the dial. Overall Score: 8.6 / 10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The Portugieser line has to be my favourite from IWC Schaffhausen, with its elegant and refined aesthetics complementing the sporty side. Previously, I had the chance to wear and test out the IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Automatic 42 with the sliver-plated dial, and I certainly enjoyed my time with it! Before I had the chance to do the review, however, I was already a fan of the Automatic 42, especially its bi-counter layout displaying the power reserve and constant seconds. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Chamath Gamage (@champsg) The IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Automatic 40 on Chamath’s wrist W...

In-Depth: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph CFT Carbon SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Feb 7, 2025

In-Depth: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph CFT Carbon

On its face, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Date in CFT carbon is familiar. The aesthetic is the oversized, stylised, and modern look that defines the Royal Oak Concept (ROC), with aggressive pusher guards and a complex, open-worked dial. And this latest version has the added feature of a carbon composite case produced via Chroma Forged Technology (CFT) that adds both colour and luminosity to the material. But the ROC Split-Seconds is more than just another Royal Oak chronograph because of the cal. 4407 inside. Launched in the 2023 titanium model, the is a latest-generation in-house movement and a notably innovative rattrapante calibre. The ingenuity of the movement lies in the fact that is both a traditional, integrated split-seconds chronograph and self-winding – a feat achieved with an elegant and patented automatic mechanism. Initial thoughts The very first Royal Oak Concept in Alacrite of 2002 was an enormous, heavy watch. Since then, the design of the ROC has been refined to become more wearable, and more lightweight thanks to new materials. The ROC Split-Seconds is perhaps the most wearable to date. Even though it’s a big watch, it doesn’t actually feel that large; the curved, tonneau-like form clings to the wrist well. The look is typical ROC – technical, aggressive, and modern. While I like the look, it is a little over the top. The style is now; I am not sure how it will age. Visuals aside, the ROC Split-Seconds is int...

Introducing: Baltic Hermétique Dual Time Enduropale Edition Fratello
Baltic Hermétique Dual Time Enduropale Feb 6, 2025

Introducing: Baltic Hermétique Dual Time Enduropale Edition

Here’s one from out of the blue! With all our expectations for 2025, we did not foresee a Baltic Hermétique motocross edition, but here we are. More specifically, the Baltic Hermétique Dual Time Enduropale Edition celebrates a new collaboration between the young Parisian brand and a legendary annual enduro event. If you move quickly, you […] Visit Introducing: Baltic Hermétique Dual Time Enduropale Edition to read the full article.

H. Moser Introduces a New Pioneer Tourbillon with a Burgundy Dial Worn & Wound
H. Moser Introduces Feb 6, 2025

H. Moser Introduces a New Pioneer Tourbillon with a Burgundy Dial

For H. Moser’s first release of 2025, they’ve added a new reference to the Pioneer collection in the still somewhat new 40mm case. I’ve been a fan of the Pioneer for what it represents in the Moser catalog for some time. Moser is a very high end indie that is responsible for a lot of truly interesting and innovative watchmaking, but the Pioneer has existed as a (somewhat) accessible access point to the brand that gives you a lot of Moser style, and, frankly, a good chunk of the watchmaking that makes the brand special. I reviewed the “Mega-Cool” Pioneer all the way back in 2021, and came away impressed with the aesthetic even if I felt like the case perhaps a tad too big. The new, smaller, 40mm case is Moser’s answer to many of their clients who were asking for this watch in a smaller size, and while there is indeed a 40mm Pioneer on the accessible side, here Moser is using the platform for a watchmaking flex. The Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy is a new 40mm Pioneer running on Moser’s HMC 805 automatic caliber with a deep burgundy dial and a red gold case. Red gold and burgundy certainly feel like a natural combination, and the watch seems to exude a warmth that makes it particularly appealing in these dark winter months (although, to be fair, this watch has a place on the beach as well).  If you only know the Pioneer in its 43mm guise, you really owe it to yourself to get the 40mm version on your wrist. It wears completely differently and changes the impact of...

Fratello’s Potential Downsides To Buying A Microbrand Watch Fratello
Feb 6, 2025

Fratello’s Potential Downsides To Buying A Microbrand Watch

Last week, we published an article about how much fun it can be to buy a watch from a microbrand. We gave you a list of seven reasons, and many of you agreed. Unfortunately, though, things are rarely only fun and positive. There are, of course, also some drawbacks to buying yourself a microbrand watch. […] Visit Fratello’s Potential Downsides To Buying A Microbrand Watch to read the full article.