Two Broke Watch Snobs
Ep. #219 The Last Watch We’d Ever Sell
Some of you will not be pleased with this episode. Several of the watches that you've come to love - courtesy of the TBWS Wristwatch Museum - are about to be let go.
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
SJX Watches
Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie Wristwatch Sells for US$5.2m
One of the most anticipated sales during Geneva’s watch auction week just concluded with a big number – the Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie wristwatch sold for CHF4.749 million, or about US$5.2 million, including fees. While bidding was steady, it was restrained. Three bidders were the key movers behind the result – a phone bidders represented by Yong Ho and Alex Ghotbi of Phillips in Hong Kong and Geneva respectively, as well as an online bidder in Singapore. At the end it was down to the Singaporean buyer and Mr Ghotbi’s phone bidder, who clinched the watch with a hammer of CHF3.9 million. I wrote just earlier this week that I expected the Grande Sonnerie to sell for between US$4.0-5.0 million, so the result was well within my expectation. While there was talk of a far higher number prior to the sale, a variety of factors led me to that range, including the number of known potential buyers as well as the values of comparable watches. And that was how it turned out.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie Wristwatch No. 1
Widely regarded as important, the Philippe Dufour Grande Sonnerie wristwatch was a landmark when it was unveiled in 1992. The first wristwatch to incorporate a grande et petite sonnerie, widely regarded as the pinnacle of complications, the Grande Sonnerie is indeed a feat of miniaturisation, construction, and finishing. And now the very first example is slated to go under the hammer at Phillips’ upcoming Geneva auction. Initial thoughts Originally conceived as a homage of early 20th century Swiss watchmaking – the very sort of watches Mr Dufour worked on early in his career – the Grande Sonnerie revered today for many reasons, but it really is all about two accomplishments. The wristwatch (left), and its pocket watch counterpart One is miniaturisation – this was the first ever wristwatch grande sonnerie. Prior examples were all pocket watches and correspondingly large. And the second, arguably more important quality, is its movement finishing. Mr Dufour decorated each component of the movement exceedingly well. So well, in fact, that this is arguably better finished than even the finest examples of grande sonnerie pocket watches made by brands like Patek Philippe. In the metal the Grande Sonnerie wristwatch is eminently classical, and also fairly large at 41 mm in diameter. In fact, when it premiered in 1992 the Grande Sonnerie would have been massive – the typical men’s dress watch was barely 35 mm then. The Grande Sonnerie is almost a pocket watch with lugs...
Deployant
Quick takes: new Breitling Premier B15 Duograph 42
The Breitling Premier B15 Duograph is Breitling’s take on a split second chronograph with a center monopusher. Featuring rectangular chronograph pushers and Arabic numerals, the heritage-revived Premier Duograph displays a variety of details such as grooves on the case-sides, open sapphire casebacks and syringe hands. The Duograph comes in stainless steel with a blue dial or in 18k red gold with a black dial.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Farer Cobb Pulsometer Monopusher is a colourful masterclass in dial construction
As names for a timepiece go, Farer’s latest Chronograph Monopusher is as badass as it is to the point. Indeed, when someone asks what watch you are wearing and your retort is “the Farer Cobb Pulsometer Monopusher” you’d be hard pushed not to want to be a) intrigued and keen to take a closer look, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Farer Cobb Pulsometer Monopusher is a colourful masterclass in dial construction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Grand Seiko celebrates a key milestone with the hot SBGE305 \
SJX Watches
Urwerk Unveils the UR-112 Aggregat
For some two-and-a-half decades, Urwerk – along with a handful of other independent watchmakers – has been at the cutting edge of the the presentation of time. While the three-dimensional, satellite-cube hours has long been its trademark complication, Urwerk has nevertheless continued to evolve its mechanics, resulting in similarly futuristic watches such as the UR-111C with its linear time display on a rotating drum. And its latest invention is perhaps the brand’s most notable since the debut of the satellite cube display. A followup to the UR-111C, the UR-112 Aggregat retains the same form as its immediate predecessor, and continues to display hours and minutes displayed in a pair of glass cylinders. But the UR-112 is more complicated, with the hours and minutes indicated by swivelling prisms. And its case has an aggressive, military feel that brings to mind the Tumbler of Christopher Nolan’s Dark Knight films. Initial thoughts As the UR-112 is part of the Special Project Collection – the models within are essentially one-off production runs – it is disconnected with Urwerk’s recent inclination towards slimmer, streamlined designs. The UR-112 is an appealing and intriguing example of watchmaking, and very much typical of Urwerk. Importantly, it is impressive yet unpretentious – it does not replicate past designs, nor does it try to be fashionable. Notable for being entirely digital with its time display, the UR-112 indicates the the hours and minutes ...
Time+Tide
A WEEK ON THE WRIST: Inspired by a classic motorbike, the Ollech & Wajs OW350CI is the wheel deal
The thrum of the horizontally opposed twin engine spins into a whine when the traffic lights go green. It’s a beautiful spring day in Sydney and the old BMW motorbike is in its element as I wind along a coastal road, with stunning views of the Pacific Ocean flanking the cliffs. I look down and … ContinuedThe post A WEEK ON THE WRIST: Inspired by a classic motorbike, the Ollech & Wajs OW350CI is the wheel deal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
OPINION: Why typefaces and logos can make or break a watch
When buying a watch, most people think about issues such as accuracy, water resistance or power reserve – but for me, it’s the typography that matters most. Before I go further, let’s start with a mini lesson: the words font and typeface are not synonymous. A typeface is a family of fonts (ie Times New Roman, … ContinuedThe post OPINION: Why typefaces and logos can make or break a watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Zeitwerk Honey Gold “Lumen”
Having launched the second-generation Zeitwerk movement two years ago with a date display, A. Lange & Söhne has now upgraded the base model with the same calibre – except it’s not exactly a base model. Limited to 200 watches, the Zeitwerk Honey Gold “Lumen” reimagines the Zeitwerk Phantom of 2010, but with a second-generation movement – which means a longer power reserve and quickset hours – and a case in 18k Honeygold, the brand’s proprietary gold alloy. Initial thoughts Lange is certainly introducing second-generation Zeitwerk in style. The combination of Honeygold and the tinted sapphire dial is striking – it is a good looking watch – while the improved movement removes all of the inconveniences of the first-generation calibre. It is essentially a revisit of the Zeitwerk Phantom, but that takes nothing away from it. Enough time has passed since the Phantom that an encore is welcome, and it is also different enough with the Honeygold case and second-generation calibre. The only bit I wish was different is the red marking on the power reserve indicator. I’m not a fan because it jumps out relative to the rest of the dial, and adds colour to what should be a monochromatic design. At €114,000 the new Zeitwerk is a chunk of change but it’s not exorbitant considering the complication. And perhaps more relevant is the fact the secondary market values for past Lumen editions have escalated rapidly, which makes this inexpensive in comparison. Mechanic...
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The frankly unbelievable story of a green Nautilus donated to the Loupe This auction site is actually 100% legit
It’s the kind of anecdote that immediately causes the eyes to squint, and all internal radars for shadiness sweep madly across the story points. A consignor sends an email to Eric Ku and Justin Gruenberg, founders of Loupe This, an online watch auction platform that we’ve covered here, saying that he wanted to “let go” of … ContinuedThe post The frankly unbelievable story of a green Nautilus donated to the Loupe This auction site is actually 100% legit appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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7 Best Affordable & Snob Proof Watches Under $1000 - Seiko, Bulova, G-Shock & More
Quill & Pad
Only Watch 2021: F.P. Journe, H. Moser & Cie, And Urwerk Unique Pieces On Auction (Video)
Our pals at The Watches TV went hands on with three of the unique timepieces on offer at the upcoming Only Watch 2021, which takes place on November 6, 2021. The unique watches featured are the F.P. Journe x Francis Ford Coppola FFC Blue, the Moser Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon Only Watch, and the Urwerk UR-102 Gaïa. Enjoy this rare treat!
Quill & Pad
You Are There: Attending The Jaeger-LeCoultre Sound Maker Exhibition In New York City
When Brendan Cunningham learned of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Sound Maker exhibition in New York, he quickly decided to attend and participate in the accompanying Atelier d’Antoine, a 1.5-hour workshop to discover why watches go "tick tock" and how time can be expressed. He shares his experiences here.
Time+Tide
Unpacking Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mysterious new film with British actor Nicholas Hoult
News that Jaeger-LeCoultre have teamed with British actor Nicholas Hoult on “a new short film” is intriguing. After all, if a recipe is only as good as the quality of the ingredients, French director Théo Gottlieb has a couple of hand-picked treats straight from that over-priced deli that you only go to on really special … ContinuedThe post Unpacking Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mysterious new film with British actor Nicholas Hoult appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Weekend Rewind: Buzzsaws, Geiger Counters, And Lasers –These Are Our Favorite Bond Gadget Watches
Only Q-Branch's best for Bond.
Deployant
New variant: Petermann Bédat 1967 Second Series – live pics
Petermann Bédat releases a second series to their jumping seconds 1967 with the new series in ti case and a blue dial. We go hands on with live photographs.
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Fratello Talks: Watch Photography Q&A; Ft. Bowl Of Salmon
Quill & Pad
Wrist Watching: 3 Of Eddie Van Halen’s Watches As Amazing As His Guitar Solos . . . From Jaeger-LeCoultre, Corum, And Bell & Ross – Reprise
Van Halen was the catalyst kicking off Elizabeth Doerr's lifelong passion for rock music as the first band she stumbled across in this genre (but most certainly not the last). One cursory listen to “Eruption” and she was hooked on rock for life. In honor of the anniversary of Eddie Van Halen's untimely death on October 6, 2020, cue “Eruption” and take a look at three tasteful and fun watches the guitar god owned and wore.
Time+Tide
The Collector’s Crossroads: Can I call myself a collector if I’ve never owned a Rolex?
Here’s a challenge: check your Instagram feed and see if you can go 24 hours without seeing a Rolex. Even though the brand itself post at a rate of once every two to three days, you’ll still find yourself inundated with pictures of dozens of references. Mind you, there is nothing wrong with this. Yet, … ContinuedThe post The Collector’s Crossroads: Can I call myself a collector if I’ve never owned a Rolex? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
These Two New Blue Dial Limited Editions Prove That Lange Never Settles
"Innovation and differentiating design elements are key parameters for us." – Günter Blümlein, co-founder of A. Lange & Söhne.
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S PICK: Why I didn’t trade my collection for a Patek Philippe 5066 Aquanaut
EDITOR’S NOTE: There are some members of the Time+Tide team whose watch collection seems to change on a monthly basis. There are constant purchases, trades, U-turns, I-can’t-believe-I-did-that moments. Their sheer love of watches means the horological merry-go-round never stops. Our deputy editor Zach is one of those guys. Here, he reflects on one time he … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Why I didn’t trade my collection for a Patek Philippe 5066 Aquanaut appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Introducing ‘Loupe This’: An Online Watch Auction Platform Designed By Collectors, For Collectors
Revolution caught up with Eric Ku and Justin Gruenberg to discuss their latest venture Loupe This, an online watch auction platform designed by collectors, for collectors
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Can Rolex beat Patek? At what price do you get most value for money? Can Tudor beat Omega? - Q&A;
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MICRO MONDAYS: The new Feynman Fjord Collection delivers blazing colours and radical designs
One of my main reasons for loving microbrands is the lack of limitations they place on themselves when it comes to design. That ability to be so uninhibited may be sometimes be polarising, but I always appreciate any brand’s attempt to go off the beaten path. That is what Feynman Timekeepers founder Yong Keong Lim … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The new Feynman Fjord Collection delivers blazing colours and radical designs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Time Trial: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas ‘Everest’ Dual Time Limited Edition
Wei Koh showcases the new Vacheron Constantin Overseas ‘Everest’ Dual Time Limited Edition, honouring the spirit of the prototype worn by photographer and mountaineer Cory Richards, whilst climbing the world’s tallest peak in 2019.
Time+Tide
The Collector’s Crossroads: Should I take on debt to buy a watch?
This is the first in a series of articles discussing some common questions many watch collectors are faced with as they each go through their own collecting journey. The goal is not to give you an answer to these questions. Instead, the goal is to make sure you’re asking yourself the right questions beforehand – … ContinuedThe post The Collector’s Crossroads: Should I take on debt to buy a watch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Supersonnerie in Titanium
First introduced as a handful of limited editions (including for Japanese retailer Yoshida), the minute repeating, luxury-sports watch has finally become a permanent addition to the Audemars Piguet catalogue with the Royal Oak Minute Repeater Supersonnerie in Titanium. Despite its low-key looks, a tone-on-tone palette of a smoked, grey dial and brushed titanium case, the Royal Oak repeater is loud – literally – thanks to the patented Supersonnerie system within, which produces chimes that are clearer and louder than those of a traditional striking wristwatch. Initial thoughts The superb acoustics are unquestionably the focal point of the latest from Audemars Piguet (AP) – it is undeniably a successful striking complication thanks to the clever case (we explained the Supersonnerie in an earlier story). But the design of the Royal Oak repeater is arguably near perfect and worth a leading mention. At a glance the repeater looks very much like a typical Royal Oak, but the dial layout gives it perhaps the most classical face amongst its siblings. It has no date, and instead a small seconds at six to replace the central seconds found on most Royal Oak models. The seconds-at-six layout is typical of a dress watch, and it isn’t special per se, but it is unique for a Royal Oak, which was after all designed as a sports watch. By way of its thinness (at least in its original ref. 5402 “Jumbo” guise), the Royal Oak has always retained an elegant air that resonates wit...
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The Brellum Wyvern GMT Chronometer offers a stylish take on the most useful watch complication
I love a good GMT. Who doesn’t? As a guy who works for an Australian watch website, while being based in New York City, there really is no better complication for me. That function has become so important in my daily life that I now analyze and evaluate every single GMT that gets released. All … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Brellum Wyvern GMT Chronometer offers a stylish take on the most useful watch complication appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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