Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: Our Favorite Watches Of 2024 So Far + Talking Hodinkee's Porsche Design Collab
Talking the Porsche Design Chronograph 1 for Hodinkee, and some of the best – and most overlooked – releases halfway through 2024.
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Hodinkee
Talking the Porsche Design Chronograph 1 for Hodinkee, and some of the best – and most overlooked – releases halfway through 2024.
Worn & Wound
Since Doxa’s relaunch in 2001, there have been multiple iterations and limited editions of their classic dive watches. These include contemporary versions with various depth ratings, multiple dial colors, and new case materials. In May of last year, Doxa launched the Sub 300T Clive Cussler, paying tribute to the legendary author and explorer. This model has classic proportions and is made of distressed stainless steel. It has a matching distressed beige dial with a compass rose motif at its center. The case back features inscriptions, specifically the names of shipwrecks and other historical artifacts discovered or surveyed by NUMA, the non-profit agency founded by Cussler. New for 2024, Doxa is releasing the SUB 300T Sharkhunter Clive Cussler edition as a follow up. Sharkhunter is the name they use to identify their black-dialed dive watches. This watch has the same wonderful details as the previous Clive Cussler homage but with, you guessed it, a black dial. The case is 42.5mm in diameter and only 44.5mm from lug to lug, with a thickness of 14mm. Its trademark cushion case makes this large watch suitable for nearly any wrist size. The Swiss-made Sellita SW200-1 powers the watch, which beats at 4hz and has a power reserve of 38 hours. It is also water-resistant to 300 meters, as all SUB 300T’s should be. The Clive Cussler connection began almost 50 years ago when he took a $400-per-month gig at a dive shop after quitting his job as a creative director at an advertisin...
Worn & Wound
Best known for its regulator-style watches, the Louis Erard brand has been in continuous production since 1931, despite a change in ownership and relocation in 1992. Still proudly made in Switzerland, it creates original and authentic watches with strong horological content while embodying today’s essential call for affordability. Best known for its regulator-style watches, the Louis Erard brand has been in continuous production since 1931, despite a change in ownership and relocation in 1992. Still proudly made in Switzerland, it creates original and authentic watches with strong horological content while embodying today’s essential call for affordability. The post Five Louis Erard’s You Shouldn’t Miss appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
What is private luxury? Terreni offers a teaching moment, and how this essence has been rebranded during his tenure.The post Parmigiani Fleurier CEO Guido Terreni on how private luxury drives brand philosophy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Another collaboration by Franck Muller. This time with Japanese artist Ryoko Kaneta with a cute depiction of a dragon girl on the dial.
Time+Tide
Andrew visits Swiss Timing LTD to explore Omega timekeeping that will elevate the experience of the 2024 Paris Olympics to the next level.The post How Omega Olympic timekeeping technology maximises precision, fairness, and storytelling appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Repeaters are one of the most complicated mechanisms in watches and over the years the complication has been refined by successive generations of watchmakers. Now, perhaps more than ever, watchmakers dedicate absolute attention to perfecting the quality, speed, accuracy, and durability of the striking works. Various components are required to chime the tunes of time with hammers and gongs. Paradoxically, amongst the most crucial parts of a chiming watch are those that work quietly, or silently, in the background – the governor. One of the most recent new repeater calibres, the A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Minute Repeater What is a governor? The governor regulates the speed of the striking pattern, in other words the pace of the individual chimes. A repeater movement contains a separate gear train for the repeating works, which are powered by their own smaller, auxiliary spring. The last component of this train consists of the governor. The governor’s task is to introduce resistance in the repeater train, allowing it to be regulated. Therefore, less resistance accelerates the striking speed, while more resistance slows down the repeater chimes. The Vacheron Constantin cal. 1731 with the secondary spring visible between the hammers The fine-tuning of the repeater’s speed is prized as an essential factor in ensuring a perfect series of chimes. If the pace is too fast, the vibrations of the gongs produce jarring overtones that cancel each other out. If too slow, not o...
Quill & Pad
At its core, the O.G. Deep Space is a very simple watch without any gimmicks masquerading as features, allowing it to be observed and appreciated for what it is, a solid time-only watch. It displays the hours and minutes on a supremely clean dial that lacks pomp or flourish, with just enough going on to create a strong first impression.
Fratello
What happens if you elongate the design of a G-Shock “Square”? You get the new GD-B500 series. No, I’m just kidding. That’s an unfair and cheeky observation. However, the G-Shock Square is an immediate association as it is such an iconic silhouette. As a result, it’s tempting to compare any square or rectangular digital watch […] Visit Hands-On With Three ’80s-Inspired Casio G-Shock GD-B500 Models to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
It’s been just about a year since we last scrolled. But we’re back, flicking fingers and double tapping with more fervor than ever before. This series started as a way to try and avoid the horrors of losing oneself in doom scrolling through the vastness of Instagram, and to instead serve up a bounty of accounts worthy of your hearts and comments. As Worn & Wound has broadened its reach, so have we in the depth of our scrolling. While watches may make us drool, we also like to indulge in other hobbies, as well as EDC. Today, contributor Chris Antzoulis picks five IG accounts that he thinks are worth a follow. @sophies.watch.world View this profile on Instagram Sophie Cassaro (@sophies.watch.world) • Instagram photos and videos The world of watches doesn’t have to be so serious all the time, and Sophie routinely invites us into her world, through her Instagram and YouTube account, to share a bit of her wacky humor. Yet, she still manages to deliver on the history of different watches and brands, and brings up relevant questions for us to ponder. Whether it’s asking her followers if they’ve considered neo-vintage quartz watches, or if we’ve paid attention to how different brands choose to market their watches, it’s clear that Sophie wants us to question not only what we enjoy about the watch community, but why we enjoy it, and how we can make it better. And because she delivers the message in a digestible and fun way, it’s easy to engage with her....
SJX Watches
The first quarter results of Richemont, the Swiss luxury group that just announced a new chief executive, illustrate a well-established trend in the luxury goods industry, with the group’s jewellery brands outperforming its watchmakers in the three months to end June 2024. Dominated by Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, the Swiss group’s jewellery division eked out a 4% increase in sales, reflecting the strength of the group’s twin jewellery giants. Notably, the revenue growth was “supported by both jewellery and watches”, reflecting the brand equity of each jeweller has carried over into their respective watch offerings. The three jewellery brands – the smallest is Buccellati – accounted for 70% of Richemont’s turnover. Although profit was not announced, the jewellers are also responsible for an even greater share of the group’s profits. Watch weakness In contrast, the watch division saw revenue fall 13%. Amongst the division’s brands are IWC, Panerai, Piaget, and Jaeger-LeCoultre. Interestingly, A. Lange & Söhne and Vacheron Constantin were singled out for their “resilience”. Unsurprisingly, both are haute horlogerie brands that derive the highest proportion of revenue from in-house boutiques, as opposed to third-party retailers. Whether this resilience is durable is an open question, although odds are not in the brands’ favour given their respective product mix, sales strategies, and consumer sentiment. Only available at boutiques At a group leve...
Fratello
I have handled a lot of watches over the past 30 years. To my knowledge, though, I had never held a Borgel-cased watch until sometime last year. Now I own two Borgel pieces, and they’re worth sharing. Both are Movado Sport models from the ’50s and are lovely regardless of the case maker. My interest […] Visit Vintage Watches: A Pair Of Movado Sport Models With Borgel Cases to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Your 101 guide to keeping your bronze watch clean and shiny or green and grimey.The post How to care for your bronze watch, from forcing patina to citric acid baths appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air. This time, we discuss exit watches after receiving a great topic request from one of our favorite listeners. It’s a familiar theme we may have touched upon before. Let’s see if our collective tastes have changed. For our listeners, watch content starts after eight minutes. Exit watches […] Visit Fratello On Air: Revisiting Our Exit Watches - Patek Philippe, Rolex, And More to read the full article.
Monochrome
Following the announcement yesterday of decreasing sales for the Swatch Group, particularly impacted by the industry’s challenging situation in China and South East Asia, it is time today for one of its main competitors, Richemont Group, to announce its sales for the first quarter ended 30 June 2024. Contrary to expectations, global sales are to […]
Quill & Pad
The Sato winery in New Zealand has a collection of wines that both reflect their site and terroir while retaining finesse and elegance. Ken Gargett found them utterly entrancing.
SJX Watches
Among Tudor’s new releases for 2024, the most conservative is undoubtedly the Black Bay 41 METAS ref. 7941A1A0NU, which offers a monochrome, black-and-white alternative to the gilt-and-burgundy ref. M7941A1A0RU-0003 introduced last year. Initial thoughts The new Black Bay 41 (BB41) feels instantly familiar. In fact, it’s a little surprising that it wasn’t already in the collection, being about at straightforward as a contemporary dive watch can be. But what it lacks in surprise, it makes up for in simple, tangible quality. While the BB41 was the original Black Bay – launched a dozen years ago now – it now sits atop a range that also includes the smaller Black Bay 58 and even more compact Black Bay 54. The BB41 METAS’ dimensions of 41 mm by 13.6 mm thick mean it wears similar to a modern Rolex Submariner; those looking for vintage proportions should consider the BB58 and BB54. Of course, the big news is METAS certification for the MT5602-U movement, which now carries a “U” suffix to identify it as a METAS-certified Master Chronometer. The differences from the standard MT5602 used to date are likely minimal, since the movement has always had a silicon hairspring, one of the most important features for resisting the METAS standard’s 15,000 gauss anti-magnetism test. The difference, therefore, is that the movement’s high-performance specs have been confirmed by an independent test. Tudor is all about value, and the BB41 METAS is no exception. Available with...
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin will soon stage From Geometry to Artistry in Singapore, an exhibition to showcase the brand’s latest timepieces launched Watches & Wonders 2024, as well as an interactive kinetic artwork by design studio Lanzavecchia + Wai. According to Vacheron Constantin, the new timepieces for 2024, ranging from the Traditionnelle to the Overseas, demonstrate artistry inspired by geometric shapes, hence the exhibition’s title, From Geometry to Artistry. The exhibition will take place in 48 Bukit Pasoh from July 22-28, 2024. It’s open to the public, but registration online is required. This year’s Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time with a green dial. La Bonsaï, the kinetic artwork by Lanzavecchia + Wai, was created in response reaction to exhibition’s theme. La Bonsaï is a mechanical bonsai-planétaire that goes into motion when guests touch the jewel-like plant. Each branch of the artwork is inspired by Vacheron Constantin’s signature finishes, components, and movements, including a large blue disc on the trunk of the bonsai references the sunburst, satin-finish dial of the Patrimony, as well as a sphere on the base of the plate that orbits the trunk, a nod to the moon phase display. La Bonsaï, 2024 by Lanzavecchia + Wai. From Geometry to Artistry Open daily to the public July 22-July 28, 2024 2:00 pm-9:00 pm 48 Bukit Pasoh Road Singapore 089859 For registration, visit vacheron-constantin.com.
SJX Watches
The owner of brands like Omega and Longines, the Swatch Group just announced its results for the first half of 2024. The half-year numbers crystallised a slowdown that the watch industry has felt since late 2023. Revenue was down 14.3% to CHF3.44 billion, while operating profit plunged 70% to just CHF204 million, giving the group an operating margin of just 5.9%, compared to 17.1% from a year earlier. According to Swatch, the fall in revenue was “triggered by the sharp drop in demand for luxury goods in China (including Hong Kong SAR and Macau SAR)”. At the same time, wholesale sales fell over 10%, indicating that third-party retailers are ordering less watches from the group’s brands, which in turn indicates the retailers’ pessimism for the short- and medium term. Swatch also explained the poor results by noting the group did not “make any redundancies… [and] maintaining all production capacities and not laying off qualified staff”. This was done so that “the Group [will] recover more quickly and benefit more significantly from the next upswing.” The progressively weakening positions of each of the group’s brands relative to the competition – marques like Breguet and Blancpain stand out in this regard – imply this might be overoptimistic. Notably, Swatch stated “the Swatch brand bucked the negative trend” thanks to the bestselling MoonSwatch, but this was not (and will not) be sufficient to help the rest of the group given the low value of Swat...
Deployant
VC brings the novelties from Watches & Wonders to Singapore in an interesting exhibition. We were at themedia preview. Here is our event guide.
SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie. is marking the 70th anniversary of its retailer in Southeast Asia with the Pioneer Perpetual Calendar Concept MD Purple Enamel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition. The first model in the Pioneer line to feature an enamel dial, this is also Moser’s inaugural venture into a grand feu enamel dial in purple fumé, which is translucent, smoked, and executed on an engraved dial base. It’s matched with a two-colour case of 18k red gold with titanium inserts treated with black diamond-like carbon (DLC), containing the manual-wind in-house HMC 808 movement that offers seven days of power reserve and more importantly, the brand’s innovative and concise perpetual calendar mechanism. Initial thoughts The new Pioneer perpetual it showcases typical Moser aesthetics and craft in a restrained style, with the details only apparent up close. At a distance the perpetual calendar is barely discernible with the dial having only the month and date along with two tiny pointers. But the purple flinqué enamel dial is stunning up close, with the textured surface showing through the translucent enamel. And the combination of the Pioneer case that’s rated to 120 m along with the fired enamel dial is unusual, giving the semi-sporty model a more refined aspect. Leaving aside the aesthetics, the watch is notable for the HMC 808 movement, still one of the cleverest perpetual calendar movements on the market two decades after its introduction. The case back is etched with the Sincer...
SJX Watches
Having launched the Première Édition Originale two years ago, a bestseller modelled on the No. 5 perfume bottle, Chanel has now extended the concept, literally, with the Première Sound Watch. It’s a necklace watch, or a montre sautoir, with a pair of wired earphones, or more specifically in-ear monitors (IEMs), that loop through the links of the chain. Initial thoughts Chanel is now a proper watchmaker with an expansive manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds (where the Monsieur is produced) and a stake in movement maker Kenissi, but it’s primarily a luxury fashion house that derives majority of its revenue from cosmetics and fashion. The Première Sound is very much a fashion watch – and an expensive one at that – but a logical creation that is both useful and instantly recognisable as Chanel. As an aside, the fact that the Première necklace watch is delivered with a pair of wired earphones, instead of wireless earbuds, is low tech but practical since it does away with flaky rechargeable batteries, which will inevitably extend its useful life. Importantly, the earphone cable loops into the necklace and is removable, meaning the Première Sound can revert to just being a necklace watch. Jennie of Korean girl group Blackpink with the Premiere Sound A bottle stopper watch Introduced in 1987, the Première is Chanel’s longest-lived bestseller. Its case is modelled on the cap of the No. 5 perfume bottle, itself inspired by the shape of the Place Vendôme, the square in ...
Time+Tide
After falling off his wrist off the Mallorca coast, a hobby diver finds the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 10 metres down. The post Diver finds Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time lost for over a year appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Angelus offers the Instrument de Vitesse in classic black or ivory dials, each limited to a ridiculously low 25 pieces. Martin Green thinks that the black dial with copper-colored numerals and railroad track with red details looks fabulous.
Monochrome
Considering how time is indicated on most watches – hands rotating 360-degree around the dial – it is no surprise that the vast majority of timepieces available on the market have round cases. But there is always room for creativity, originality and audacity. Watches don’t have to be round to be either striking or elegant. […]
Fratello
Another Sunday morning, another showdown! This week, Thomas and Daan pit two popular dive watches against each other. Thomas fights for the Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400, while Daan defends the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Date. These two watches are similar in price, function, and concept but are worlds apart in style and execution. […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 Vs. TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Date to read the full article.
Time+Tide
There can be a little nuance and math involved, but following these steps, you should be able to set your moonphase in no time.The post How to set a moonphase watch in three steps appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
In the rising warmth of the European summer, new ocean-inspired watches are bringing a breath of fresh air to this torrid weather.The post New releases from Parmigiani Fleurier, Ulysse Nardin, Gerald Charles and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing the 2024 Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Limited Edition For Hodinkee. A watch rooted in the specifications of F. A. Porsche but with details designed for the modern watch - and car - enthusiast.
Time+Tide
This grail-worthy piece isn't just one of the “most platinum” watches made recently, but a glorious yet surprisingly understated example of haute horlogerie.The post Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Excellence Platine: a long name, a lot of platinum & a lot to like appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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