Hodinkee
Introducing: The Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Reference 6159G-001
The smoked sapphire dial from Patek is no longer just a one-off. It's apparently here to stay.
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Hodinkee
The smoked sapphire dial from Patek is no longer just a one-off. It's apparently here to stay.
SJX Watches
At Watches & Wonders 2025, Ulysse Nardin is taking the covers off the lightest ever mechanical dive watch, the Diver [Air]. Weighing only 52 grams, strap included, UN’s newest diver is unexpected and impressive in a number of ways. Initial thoughts UN’s engineers have succeeded in marrying lightness with utility in the Diver Air. The case, strap, and the movement in particular, have all been developed to carry as little weight as possible - without compromising structural reliability. At 52 g with the strap, and 46 g without, the Diver Air weighs about as much as 10 sheets of A4 paper. Impressive as it is, however, the Diver Air doesn’t really look the part, which is arguably its biggest weakness. Visually the Diver Air is almost undistinguishable from the standard Diver X Skeleton, which is a shame given that this is entirely different. The result is a missed opportunity in creating something that looks like what it is, an ultra-light performance watch. The movement, however, looks good in a contemporary manner, with clear sapphire jewels and a clean, industrial finish. The seven grams UN-374 movement At the core of this ultra-light diver lies an in-house movement engineered for both lightness and sturdiness - the UN-374, with 90% recycled titanium bridges. The UN-374 only weighs a staggering 7 g and yet can run for 90 hours on a full wind at a 3 Hz frequency. Based off Diver X Skeleton’s UN-372, the new UN-374 was tweaked to keep its structural stability ...
SJX Watches
Three years after his RP1 wristwatch, Raúl Pagès has taken the covers off the RP2. Inheriting the clean aesthetic that characterised his earlier creation, the RP2 is a three-hand watch with a dial of white agate. Inside is a hand-wind movement modelled on historical precision chronometers. Mr Pagès has turned to specialists for many of the raw components of the RP2, and instead focuses on decorating and completing the watches, allowing him to plan to produce the 50-piece edition over two years. Initial thoughts The sheer number of time-only watches launched by “artisanal” independent watchmakers has made the concept mostly uninteresting for me. Mr Pagès’ new creation is yet another time-only watch with a highly finished movement. But Mr Pagès is the real deal. He is an actual watchmaker who can create with his hands, and more than that, Mr Pagès is also a restorer who worked for Parmigiani in the past. His background and skill set him apart, and because of this the RP2 also stands out from the rest of the time-only crowd. Though simple on its face, the RP2 incorporates interesting details, ranging from the hands to the raised flange around the dial. These reflect Mr Pagès’ thoughtful approach to watchmaking. But above all, his approach is exemplified by the movement, which is clearly a calibre that has a robust construction and refined finishing. Personally I would change a few elements of the design, which feels too empty and stark as it stands. However,...
Fratello
Well, I said “please” in the subtitle, so I hope the title didn’t come off too strong. But I do mean every word I wrote. Something snapped after having yet another edgy, sporty watch creation with some very particular and recognizable features show up at Fratello HQ. I couldn’t help but shout, “Stop releasing sports […] Visit Enough, Watch Brands! Stop Releasing Sports Watches With Integrated Bracelets to read the full article.
Hodinkee
The retro colors takes a backseat for something more monochromatic (until you turn off the lights).
Monochrome
It’s almost “Lights out, and away we go!” for the 2025 Formula 1 season, as this weekend it all kicks off Down Under. The 20 best drivers in the world will be chasing glory once more over the course of 24 races. Will Max Verstappen make it five in a row? Will Lando Norris clinch […]
Worn & Wound
I have to start this one off with an admission: I am not a gamer. I really, really enjoy the Grand Theft Auto franchise and have fond memories of playing them deep into the wee hours of the morning with college friends in my younger, slightly less responsible days, but as a capital A “adult” I’ve never given all that much attention to the gaming world. Movies have always been my thing when it comes to getting lost in a narrative on a giant flatscreen TV. I make the comparison to movies here because it’s been frequently discussed how games have nearly replaced movies for a younger generation when it comes to immersive storytelling. Few things make me feel like an old fuddy-duddy more than talking to twenty year olds who have logged more hours watching Twitch streams than Scorsese movies. The new watch from Hamilton, a watch brand long associated with the silver screen, is an example of the gradual shift in interest from filmed entertainment to gaming, and represents a pretty big swing for a brand that has carved out a very clear spot in the mindset of most watch enthusiasts. Hamilton conjures thoughts of American watchmaking history, countless appearances in films over the course of many decades, and classically designed value oriented tools (among many other things – their catalog is vast and they make watches in every style imaginable). But one thing they aren’t frequently associated with is the avant-garde, or truly experimental design, their 2001 inspired ...
Fratello
Have you ever wanted to buy a vintage watch but been put off by potential pitfalls? Well, this episode of Fratello Talks is the one for you. Today, Nacho, RJ, and Thomas share their advice on buying vintage watches. They’ve been doing it themselves for years. In Thomas’s case, there’s even a history of working […] Visit Fratello Talks: How To Buy A Vintage Watch to read the full article.
Hodinkee
We are thrilled to announce that award-winning journalist Andy Hoffman has joined the Hodinkee editorial team as our Senior Business Editor.
Hodinkee
Bubble-dial divers that have travelled the oceans and more as Sinn kicks off 2025.
Fratello
Today, on Fratello Talks, we’re discussing Audemars Piguet. The brand is celebrating its 150th anniversary in 2025 and has kicked things off by introducing a selection of new models earlier this week. Lex was in Le Brassus to report on the novelties, and Nacho and RJ now join him for this week’s discussion. They begin by looking […] Visit Fratello Talks: Audemars Piguet In 2025 to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet kicks off its 150th anniversary in a big way with an all-new perpetual calendar movement, the Audemars Piguet Calibre 7138. Making its debut in both the Code 11.59 and Royal Oak, the cal. 7138 is a landmark in traditional perpetual calendars. In fact, the movement is perhaps the most sophisticated and user-friendly perpetual calendar from an establishment brand. The calendar relies on the classic “grand lever” mechanism that’s been reinvented in an ultra-thin manner, but more importantly, the cal. 7138 employs an ingenious and innovative setting mechanism. Consequently, it is impressively intuitive and also foolproof. All the calendar indications are set via the crown, and the movement can’t be broken by setting it at the wrong time. Together, these features mark the cal. 7138 out as one of the most notable perpetual calendar movements on the market today. The cal. 7138 debuts in the Code 11.59 (left) and Royal Oak. Image – Audemars Piguet Initial thoughts The perpetual calendar has long been a key part of the history of Audemars Piguet (AP), especially after the bestselling ref. 5548 was launched in 1978. So a brand-new perpetual calendar for its 150th anniversary is fitting. At the same time, the calibre illustrates AP’s tremendous advances as a vertically integrated, industrial-haute horlogerie manufacture that has developed an splendid stable of in-house calibres in a relatively short period of time. The irony is that the cal. 7138 is almost...
Hodinkee
LF turns the sun off and the lights on, again, for a new Classic Traveller.
Monochrome
Warning lights go off for serious watch geeks when they get wind of a new model from a fashion or luxury brand. While Dior is best known for its haute couture, its first men’s watch, the Chiffre Rouge, cannot be dismissed as a fashion watch – far from it. Embracing an edgy, contemporary and admittedly […]
SJX Watches
Hublot has taken the covers off the Big Bang Unico Magic Ceramic, which the brand says is the world’s first timepiece to incorporate multi-coloured ceramic. While the case is fashioned from black ceramic, the standout feature is a bezel crafted in grey and blue ceramic, or more specifically, a dark grey ceramic base spotted with blue circles. Though the technical details of the two-colour ceramic are scarce at the moment – the patent is still pending according to Hublot – it appears the unique characteristic of the material lies in the fact that it is ceramic that has been coloured with two distinct pigments, as opposed to a single colour ceramic with an additional colour added. Initial thoughts For all of the criticism levelled at Hublot, the brand undeniably does well in materials innovation. Amongst its proprietary materials is Magic Gold, a gold-ceramic composite that was the first scratch-proof 18k yellow gold alloy. The Big Bang Unico Magic Ceramic underscores this focus on materials. Granted, the watch isn’t for everyone. I find the weird, spotty bezel unappealing, but the potential of the material and technology behind it is certainly interesting, especially if applied in a more stylish manner. The material is likely still experimental, since the new Big Bang is a limited edition of just 20 pieces with a hefty price tag of US$33,000, so it might take some time to see it deployed on a wider basis beyond the bezel. Magic Ceramic Apart from the bezel, the new ...
Deployant
Prepare for Lift-Off! Introducing Bell & Ross' BR-03 Astro. The stunning aventurine dial and unique interpretation of the hands will leave you starstruck
Fratello
Watch models and variations come and go. Most go under the radar, slipping into oblivion without anyone paying them much mind. Others walk off stage to great fanfare. The Patek Philippe Nautilus 5712/1A sits somewhere in the middle. Patek Philippe did not officially announce it or share anything regarding the discontinuation. Still, we feel it […] Visit Patek Philippe Silently Discontinues The Nautilus 5712/1A - What Does This Imply? to read the full article.
Fratello
Rugby fans worldwide are looking forward to the annual Six Nations Championship that kicks off on January 31st in Paris, France. This year’s tournament will end with a trio of matches on March 15th. It will be interesting to see whether Ireland can defend its title or if we will witness the crowning of a […] Visit Breitling Introduces New Six Nations Chronomat Limited Editions For Men And Women to read the full article.
Fratello
It’s great to kick off the new year with a watch from one of my favorite brands. The Aquastar Benthos H2 is a welcome release that should appeal to a wide audience. It’s affordable and, best of all, fits beautifully. The original Benthos 500 was a highly innovative mechanical dive watch that debuted in 1970. […] Visit Introducing: The Aquastar Benthos H2 to read the full article.
A Week in Watches is back and off to the races with ep 97, which covers a handful of cool new releases. Despite the beginning of the year slump, there’s still plenty to keep us excited, from a light and fast Longines to a precious metal Fears, to a new steel luxury hype-machine by Vacheron, and finally, another new Speedmaster. This episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. New to the shop is the G-SHOCK DW5000R-1A origin, a revamp of the very first G-SHOCK, some cool Casio x Pac-Man pieces, including a nerdtastic calculator watch in yellow, the futuristic Prevail field watches, and more – head to windupwatchshop.com to check them out for yourself. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 97: Longines, Fears, Omega, and More! appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Hodinkee
Two special releases to start off the new year for Omega.
Quill & Pad
2025 is MB&F;’s 20th Anniversary and their celebrations kick off with two 20-piece Limited Edition “Longhorns” in stainless steel with rhodium-plated base plates, glossy black lacquer dials, and blued hands.
Fratello
Another Friday, another list! Last week, we kicked the year off with a list of horological wishes for 2025. This week, we extend our list of wishes by focusing on some high-end brands. Some interesting developments in 2024 led to this new list. With personnel shifts and new introductions in the past year, we thought […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 High-End Horological Wishes For 2025 to read the full article.
Fratello
Seven months have passed since Oak & Oscar released its Atwood hand-wound chronograph. However, it seems that founder Chase Fancher and the team were already plotting the next model, the Humboldt GMT SAR Edition. To be fair, this is a limited offering designed with a search and rescue team in mind. However, it deserves attention […] Visit The New Oak & Oscar Humboldt GMT SAR Edition to read the full article.
Fratello
TAG Heuer has partnered with Oracle Red Bull racing since 2017, and there have been seven watches commemorating their alliance. Now, to celebrate the team’s 20th anniversary, a new Formula 1 Chronograph joins the collection. As expected, this watch blends the team colors and a highly technical look to create a sporty timepiece. The Oracle […] Visit Hot Take: TAG Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph × Oracle Red Bull Racing to read the full article.
Fratello
Less than a month ago, Omega introduced two new Seamaster Diver 300M versions. Those instantly grabbed the number-one spot in my imaginary “favorite modern Seamaster” ranking by taking the watch’s current design and toning it down. On the off chance that you might consider those two a bit bland, Omega is back with something much […] Visit Introducing: The New Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Titanium Bronze Gold to read the full article.
Hodinkee
The unique engraved 5711 in steel was auctioned off by Phillips for charity at the 30th anniversary Children Action auction in Geneva, making it the new king of the now discontinued reference.
Fratello
Recent auctions in Geneva concluded with a relative bang. Eye-watering results occurred for some truly rare pieces. For many watches, though, the sales were solid but not awe-inspiring. I’ll kick off today’s article with my thoughts on the market, and then we’ll look at several lots. My colleague Lex recently penned an article about the […] Visit The November 2024 Geneva Auctions Retrospective - Highlights to read the full article.
Monochrome
Every timepiece crafted by Jean-Marie Schaller and his watchmaking team at Louis Moinet promises one sure thing – it will captivate, invite a closer look, and often spark curiosity about the stories behind it. The latest creation, the Starman, exemplifies this spirit; it is a luxurious, quintessentially Louis Moinet piece made with fragments from two […]
Monochrome
In a very unexpected move, the Horlogical Brothers known as Tim and Bart Grönefeld are launching a new, more accessible brand aimed at a broader audience. Honouring their father with the very first model, the newly founded Grøne Oldenzaal brand offers the typical Grönefeld style (design-wise at least) at a smidge over 2k euros before […]
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