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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

[VIDEO] Grand Seiko Redefines Accuracy – Again: Introducing the 9RB2 U.F.A. Spring Drive Caliber Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Redefines Accuracy – Again Apr 1, 2025

[VIDEO] Grand Seiko Redefines Accuracy – Again: Introducing the 9RB2 U.F.A. Spring Drive Caliber

2022: the Kodo constant force tourbillon. 2023: the Tentagraph hi-beat mechanical chronograph. 2024: the 9SA4 manual wound, hi-beat, dual-impulse escapement caliber, and Kodo Daybreak. It’s easy to forget that Grand Seiko has brought the proverbial heat to Watches & Wonders every year since the fair started, unveiling something that one could call “revolutionary” for the brand, if on varying scales. Well, it’s looking like 2025 will continue the trend with the introduction of Spring Drive Caliber 9RB2, the first caliber with U.F.A., or Ultra Fine Accuracy, designation. Before proceeding, there are two important concepts to understand: Spring Drive and Grand Seiko’s history with acronyms (which, if you know, feel free to jump two paragraphs ahead). Starting with the former, the elevator pitch, which I will take from our article dedicated to the topic is “Spring Drive combines the best of mechanical watchmaking and the best of quartz timekeeping to create a state-of-the-art caliber that lacks the weaknesses inherent to both of these movements.” A bit deeper, Spring Drive movements use the energy stored in a traditional mainspring to drive their proprietary “Tri-synchro” regulator, which replaces the classic lever escapement. It consists of a glide wheel, the rate of which is controlled by an electromagnetic brake, and is essentially regulated by an integrated circuit with a quartz oscillator. The result is a mechanical movement with quartz-like accuracy and...

Zenith Reimagines Its Caliber 135 For The 21st Century Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith Apr 1, 2025

Zenith Reimagines Its Caliber 135 For The 21st Century

The year 2025 marks 160 years since the founding of Zenith in Le Locle, Switzerland, back in 1865. As watchmaking brands are wont to do, Zenith is commemorating this milestone by putting forward a watch for the occasion that’s representative of its storied history, as well as its own contemporary identity. Now, as Watches & Wonders 2025 kicks off, we are clear on how the brand aims to celebrate the occasion, and its chosen vehicle is a new collection inspired by Zenith’s own founder, complete with an update on its storied Caliber 135, which breathes fresh life into an old favorite movement. These are the conditions in which the rising star of the G.F.J. collection joins Zenith’s constellation. At the tail end of the 19th century, the mounting competition within the watch industry brought about a new standard of gauging the accuracy of movements, and watchmakers began employing observatory trials to signal to customers that their products were as accurate as possible. This was also at a time in which highly accurate timepieces were necessary for successful marine navigation. Before the COSC certification standards that are so rigidly defined today were coded, individual movements would be sent to observatories, where they would undergo testing procedures, as well as competitions for chronometry prices. Zenith details that it had been routinely entering chronometry trials as early as 1897. And, because a bit of healthy bragging is appropriate with brag-worthy achieveme...

Introducing: The TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph F1 Fratello
TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph F1 Apr 1, 2025

Introducing: The TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph F1

TAG Heuer is a name familiar to many of my fellow Australians. It’s a popular brand down under. Even so, it’s one from which I have never owned a watch except for an original quartz Formula 1 from the 1980s. This needs to change someday, but today’s article features a watch I could never hope […] Visit Introducing: The TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph F1 to read the full article.

Chronoswiss Introduces The Small Second And Q-Repeater Fratello
Chronoswiss Apr 1, 2025

Chronoswiss Introduces The Small Second And Q-Repeater

The watch industry is in full new-release mode this week, and Chronoswiss has brought the goods. Today, we’ll take a brief look at two new model lines. The Small Second will be the brand’s entry-level collection, while the Q-Repeater sits at the opposite end of the price range. Let’s take a look! Chronoswiss has been […] Visit Chronoswiss Introduces The Small Second And Q-Repeater to read the full article.

Hands-On With The New Laurent Ferrier Classic Auto Horizon Fratello
Laurent Ferrier Apr 1, 2025

Hands-On With The New Laurent Ferrier Classic Auto Horizon

Laurent Ferrier introduced the Classic Auto with a warm sandstone-colored dial just half a year ago. Today, we see the introduction of a new version. This time, the result is much cooler looking, completely changing the nature of this fine piece of Haute Horlogerie. I got a chance to go hands-on with the new Laurent […] Visit Hands-On With The New Laurent Ferrier Classic Auto Horizon to read the full article.

Vacheron Constantin’s Solaria Ultra Grand Complication is the most complicated wristwatch in the world with 41 complications Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin s Solaria Ultra Grand Apr 1, 2025

Vacheron Constantin’s Solaria Ultra Grand Complication is the most complicated wristwatch in the world with 41 complications

One year after creating the world's most complicated timepiece, Vacheron Constantin follows up with the world's most complicated wristwatch.The post Vacheron Constantin’s Solaria Ultra Grand Complication is the most complicated wristwatch in the world with 41 complications appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing: The Patek Philippe Quadruple Complication Ref. 5308G-001 Fratello
Patek Philippe Quadruple Complication Ref 5308G-001 Apr 1, 2025

Introducing: The Patek Philippe Quadruple Complication Ref. 5308G-001

The Patek Philippe Quadruple Complication ref. 5308G-001 is a stunning-looking timepiece but with a price tag well beyond what most of us could spare. Let’s take a look. Today’s Quadruple Complication ref. 5308G-001 is entering Patek Philippe’s regular catalog. Originally, the Quadruple Complication debuted as a limited-edition platinum watch during 2023’s “Watch Art” Tokyo Grand […] Visit Introducing: The Patek Philippe Quadruple Complication Ref. 5308G-001 to read the full article.

Patek Philippe Says Desk Clocks Are A Big Deal Again: Introducing The Ref. 27000M-001 Housing A New Movement With Nine Patents Fratello
Patek Philippe Says Desk Clocks Are Mar 31, 2025

Patek Philippe Says Desk Clocks Are A Big Deal Again: Introducing The Ref. 27000M-001 Housing A New Movement With Nine Patents

Wristwatches are so 2024. In 2025, Patek Philippe says desk clocks are a big deal again. Proof is the ref. 27000M-001, a table clock inspired by models created in the 1920s and 1930s. The new creation features both a perpetual and weekly calendar and is powered by new manually wound high-performance caliber with a 31-day […] Visit Patek Philippe Says Desk Clocks Are A Big Deal Again: Introducing The Ref. 27000M-001 Housing A New Movement With Nine Patents to read the full article.

Introducing: The Rolex Settimo Bracelet For The Perpetual 1908 In 18K Yellow Gold Fratello
Rolex Settimo Bracelet Mar 31, 2025

Introducing: The Rolex Settimo Bracelet For The Perpetual 1908 In 18K Yellow Gold

According to Lex, wearing a Rolex watch is like saying, “I made it, and I want everybody to know it.” But he also said, “For those who want something more discrete, though, there’s the Rolex Perpetual 1908 dress watch.” Then again, he didn’t know the brand was working on a full 18K yellow gold bracelet […] Visit Introducing: The Rolex Settimo Bracelet For The Perpetual 1908 In 18K Yellow Gold to read the full article.

Introducing: A Glorious Return Of The Cartier Tank À Guichets Fratello
Cartier Tank À Guichets I Mar 31, 2025

Introducing: A Glorious Return Of The Cartier Tank À Guichets

I am always torn between the Tank Basculante and the Tank à Guichets when it comes to picking my favorite rectangular Cartier. No, come to think of it, I am not torn at all. The Cartier Tank à Guichets is my favorite by some margin. Well, lucky me! Today, we see the reintroduction of arguably […] Visit Introducing: A Glorious Return Of The Cartier Tank À Guichets to read the full article.