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Results for ETA 2892-A2

4,325 articles · 77 videos found · page 122 of 147

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the UFO Table Clock SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Introduces Apr 8, 2021

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the UFO Table Clock

Having made a name for itself in the early 20th century for its marine chronometers, Ulysse Nardin revisits its roots with the UFO, an intriguing table clock conceived to mark the brand’s 175th anniversary. Described as a “swinging mechanical depiction of the movement of the waves”, the UFO is as an avant-garde reinterpretation of the marine chronometer. It’s essentially a round-bottomed doll that will wobble and sway but never topple over, except it contains an impressive mechanical movement with a 365-day power reserve. Traditionally known for largely classical designs with the occasional twist, such as the Marine Torpilleur, Ulysse Nardin has been gravitating towards more boldly modern designs in recent years, exemplified by the Blast Tourbillon and the Freak X Silicium Marquetry. That experimental approach is now applied to the table clock in a collaboration with clock specialist L’Epée 1839, the supplier of choice for many watchmakers looking to get into exotic clocks. Initial thoughts Inspired by the oceans, the UFO sways when nudged, but remains upright thanks to a weighted base, creating an engaging display of timekeeping. And the UFO is practical as well, featuring three clock faces that can be set to different time zones, or to mirror each other. Granted, the UFO will have a very niche appeal, considering it’s a table clock with a complex design matched by a high price tag. Costing a whopping US$41,100, the UFO is almost double the price of L’Epé...

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the American 1921 Collection Excellence Platine SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Apr 8, 2021

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the American 1921 Collection Excellence Platine

Vacheron Constantin’s most distinctive – and arguably most compelling – time-only watch is the American 1921, a large, cushion-shaped wristwatch with the dial rotated off the vertical. Already available in a variety of guises, including platinum, the model now gets an upgrade in terms of materials with the American 1921 Collection Excellence Platine. Like the other watches in the Collection Excellence Platine (CEP) collection – Vacheron Constantin debuts a CEP model every year or so – the American 1921 CEP has its case and dial in platinum, while the strap is stitched with thread woven from silk and platinum wire. Initial thoughts Wide, thin, and quirky, the 1921 is one of Vacheron Constantin’s most unusual offerings. I love everything about the watch – the design, size, and details – especially the platinum version with a silver dial and blue numerals. The CEP edition goes one better, and is even more appealing. The matte, grained platinum dial and applied Breguet-style numerals are perfect. Compared to the standard version of the 1921 in platinum, the 1921 CEP is relatively good value. The 1921 CEP costs less than 10% more than the standard version – a modest increment for the platinum dial and 100-piece production run. But the standard model is pricey to start with, so the 1921 CEP still costs a hefty US$51,000. Pt950 Debuted in 2006, the CEP collection now includes a variety of models, most recently last year’s Patrimony with calendar. Though the m...

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces Apr 8, 2021

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K

Tudor’s first-ever solid-gold dive watch is making its debut at Watches & Wonders 2021. The Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K has a case in 18k yellow gold – in a sleek, brushed finish – along with a gold-flecked green dial. (And the Fifty-Eight 18k is launching alongside the more affordable Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 with a sterling silver case.) And despite being ultra-luxe for Tudor, the Fifty-Eight 18k is very much like the rest of Tudor’s offerings in being a value proposition, with a retail price of a bit over US$18,000 – a solid deal for a solid-gold dive watch. Initial Thoughts If there is one thing this year’s Watches & Wonders has made abundantly clear, it is that green is the new flavour of the day. The Fifty-Eight 18K is one of many green watches being launched – but doubtlessly the best value proposition – and Tudor opted for a dark, rich green that complements the case metal. Stylistically, the new Fifty-Eight models are polar opposites. The sterling-silver 925 is reserved and subtle, while the 18K clearly has greater visual impact. The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K comes with two straps: alligator leather and fabric The Fifty-Eight 18k is expensive for a Tudor, with a retail price of US$18,340. That’s over US$15,000 more than last year’s navy blue version in steel. But – and this is a big but – when compared with the precious-metal dive watches made by practically every other brand, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K is a bargain in relative te...

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces Apr 7, 2021

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925

Met with critical and commercial acclaim at its launch  in 2018, the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight hit the sweet spot with enthusiasts who had been clamouring for a Black Bay in a trimmer and smaller case. At Watches & Wonders 2021, Tudor releases two variants of the model that are perhaps its most unusual dive watches ever: the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 in sterling silver, and the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K in solid yellow gold. Initial Thoughts Though a precious-metal case for a “tool” watch seems incongruent, it’s a familiar combination for high-end sports watches. But Tudor has done it differently, with the evocative 925 silver case a perfect match for the Fifty-Eight, which is at heart a vintage remake. The look of the Fifty-Eight 925 is pure understatement – a low-key yet striking watch that will be recognised only by those in the know. Thankfully, Tudor resisted using faux-aged Super-Luminova on the hour markers and Snowflake hands, a decision that preserves the watch’s clean look. The Fifty-Eight 925 in sterling silver And the look is clean. The bezel and dial are in taupe – a restrained grey-brown – a versatile colour that is studiedly neutral. Despite the inconspicuous colour – and specifically because of it – the watch is actually quite noticeable on the wrist. It is vaguely vintage in style, which goes with the soft, silvery colour of the case. Given both the colour and smaller case size, the Fifty-Eight 925 is perhaps the most gender neutr...

Rolex Introduces the Cosmograph Daytona Meteorite SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces Apr 7, 2021

Rolex Introduces the Cosmograph Daytona Meteorite

Rolex has released new references of the Cosmograph Daytona with meteorite dials, in each colour of gold as well as the option of a bracelet or silicon Oysterflex strap. The versions on Oysterflex are matched with a black ceramic bezel, while the bracelet models featured gold bezels. Initial Thoughts Meteorite dials on Rolex watches are not new – the meteorite dial with Roman numerals made its debut on the Daytona almost two decades ago –  and the current lineup includes features both the Day-Date and GMT-Master II with meteorite dials. The meteorite dials will be available in all three colours of gold (from left): Everose, white, and yellow gold The new arrivals are essentially a modest facelift – they share the same case, bezel, and mechanics as current gold Daytona – albeit one that is very well done. They are certainly eye-catching, especially combined with high-contrast black registers (the first-generation meteorite dials had matching meteorite registers). The new look is fairly priced. Depending on the case metal and choice of bracelet, expect to pay a premium of 10-15% over a standard gold Daytona model. Exotic dials Made of a slice of iron meteorite, the dial is first etched with acid to highlight the Widmanstätten pattern, the streaky motif created by the crystalline structure of the material, and then polished. But it still retains a slightly textured surface, unlike the perfectly smooth lacquered finished of most Daytona dials. As is conventional for...

Rolex Introduces the Explorer 36 mm Ref. 124270 and Ref. 124273 SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces Apr 7, 2021

Rolex Introduces the Explorer 36 mm Ref. 124270 and Ref. 124273

Just in time for the 50th anniversary of the Explorer II, Rolex is revamping both Explorer models, with the larger Explorer II getting a modest facelift and a new movement. But the Explorer gets a more wide-ranging makeover. The time-only watch retains its utilitarian good looks, keeping its distinctive dial with numerals at the quarters and an arrow at 12 o’clock. But the Explorer is now 36 mm, just as it was back in 1953 and down from the 39 mm of the outgoing model. More notably, the new Explorer will be available in Rolesor – two-tone steel and gold – for the very first time. Both versions of the new Explorer – the ref. 124270 in steel and ref. 124273 in Rolesor – are powered by the cal. 3230, a latest-generation, time-only movement. Initial thoughts Following the mantra of “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”, Rolex sticks to incremental improvements, slowly but substantially improving its watches over time. The Explorer was last given a gentle facelift in 2016, and it was truly gentle: the hands were lengthened to better match the 39 mm case, while the quarter-hour markers were filled with luminous paint. The Explorer The new Explorer is a product of this philosophy, delivering more in a more compact package. Though the case is 36 mm, the movement boast all of the brand’s latest innovations, while the dial also features a reformulated Chromalight luminous paint that glows for longer in the dark. At the same time, it is interesting that Rolex sh...

Cartier Introduces the Pasha de Cartier Chronograph SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces Apr 7, 2021

Cartier Introduces the Pasha de Cartier Chronograph

Inspired by the tale of a water resistant sports watch commissioned in 1934 by Thami El Glaoui, the Pasha of Marrakesh – which was actually a rectangular watch – the modern Pasha was penned by Gerald Genta, the man behind many of the most iconic watches of the 1970s and 1980s, which were often considered avant-garde for their time. One year after the relaunch of the time-only model, the jeweller is debuting the Pasha de Cartier Chronograph at Watches & Wonders 2021. The new chronograph on the wrist Initial Thoughts The Pasha Chronograph is an appealing watch. It does wear slightly large at 41 mm and but is surprisingly svelte at just under 12 mm in thickness. Add to that 100 m of water resistance and a moderate price premium of US$3,500 or so over the time-only model and you realise that the Pasha Chronograph is a compelling package. Granted, the “Vendome” lugs are not to everyone’s tastes, but the Pasha remains as classically Cartier as the jeweller’s form watches. The “Vendome” lugs and chain-secured crown cap are Pasha design hallmarks The movement is finished modestly and industrially, a sharp contrast to the dial finishing, which punches above its price point in terms of its detail. Nonetheless, its price of a bit under US$10,000 in steel makes the Pasha chronograph competitive, and also good value. Fine details The Pasha Chronograph measures 41 mm in diameter and 11.97 mm in thickness – it retains the same diameter as the time-only model and gains a...

Rolex Introduces the Explorer II Ref. 226570 SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces Apr 7, 2021

Rolex Introduces the Explorer II Ref. 226570

Twenty-twenty one sees Rolex revamp both its Explorer references, just in time for the 50th anniversary of the model. The new Explorer II ref. 226570 gets a new movement, while preserving the familiar style of previous model, the ref. 216570 that was launched exactly a decade ago. That means a second time zone hand in orange; fixed, brushed steel bezel; a largish, 42 mm case; and a white or black dial. While the new Explorer II is similar to its predecessor in terms of aesthetics – though the case is slimmed slightly and bracelet widened – it is powered by the cal. 3285, one of the latest-generation Rolex movement. Initial thoughts The new Explorer II is a major technical update thanks to the new movement, but in terms of look and feel, it is likely indistinguishable from its predecessor. Anyone who was a fan of the preceding model – this is a superior version of the same because the new movement is substantially better. But for those who thought the 42 mm case was too wide, it’s still 42 mm, albeit with redesigned lugs to make it slightly narrower. I find the 42 mm case a bit too big, but the version with the “polar” white dial has long been a favourite, and the new movement makes it more appealing, notwithstanding the case. For what it costs at retail the Explorer II is an excellent buy – as most Rolex watches are – though it’ll probably be tough to land one for now. Nips and tucks The Explorer II has a 42 mm case made of Oystersteel, which Rolex’s o...

Cartier Introduces the Tank Must de Cartier Monochrome Colours SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces Apr 7, 2021

Cartier Introduces the Tank Must de Cartier Monochrome Colours

Capitalising on the enduring popularity of the Tank, Cartier has (re)launched the Tank Must de Cartier at Watches & Wonders 2021. The new Tank Must line includes several entry-level watches in steel, including an unusual solar-powered model, and also a trio of watches with monochrome, solid colour dials in red, green and blue that are inspired by originals of the 1970s. Initial thoughts Appealing for its simple, 1970s style, the new Tank Must is especially striking in red, which is Cartier’s house colour. The cases are all “large model” size, which makes it suited to both genders, though more of a formal-dress watch for men. But they are all unfortunately powered by quartz movements, which are entirely acceptable given the affordable price. Given the style and movement, the new Tank Must is best suited to someone who wants a fuss-free watch that is quintessentially Cartier but not too expensive. Watch enthusiasts will probably have to wait for new versions with mechanical movements in the coming years. Vintage Technicolor The Must de Cartier Tank was born in 1977 as a mass-market product at a low price – and it was a massive hit. Prior to the Must – “I must have a Cartier” – the Tank had only been manufactured in precious metals and never been on an industrial scale. The Must de Cartier watches, which also included the Santos and other case shapes, transformed Cartier into the watch and jewellery giant it is today. While the new Tank Must line encompasses...

ANALYSIS: Gold Tudors are now selling but who exactly will be buying? Time+Tide
Tudor s are now selling Apr 7, 2021

ANALYSIS: Gold Tudors are now selling but who exactly will be buying?

Yesterday it is fair to say that Tudor hit a home run with their releases, notably introducing an attractive duo of precious metal Black Bay 58 watches as well as a revamped pair of panda-dialled Black Bay chronographs. Tudor was originally created to provide more affordable timepieces that leveraged Rolex designs and fabrication with mass-produced … ContinuedThe post ANALYSIS: Gold Tudors are now selling but who exactly will be buying? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

First Impressions: Cartier Privé Cloche de Cartier SJX Watches
Cartier Privé Cloche de Cartier Apr 7, 2021

First Impressions: Cartier Privé Cloche de Cartier

Unveiled alongside the fancy Cloche Skeleton, the Privé Cloche de Cartier is the latest vintage design to be revived by the Parisian jeweller. Less famous than the Tank or Santos, the Cloche is nevertheless an original design that quirkier than the typical Cartier case. Designed in the 1920s and shaped like a bell – cloche is French for “bell” – the Cloche has been a fixture in Cartier’s catalogue for decades, but only ever produced in small numbers, explaining its relatively obscurity. The last major edition of the model was the Collection Privee Cartier Paris (CPCP) limited edition of 2007 – 100 in yellow gold with a silver dial – though smaller runs and custom models were made in the interim. The new Privé Cloche is offered in three metals – either pink or yellow gold as well as platinum – each limited to 100 pieces. The Cloche variants. Image – Cartier Initial thoughts The Cloche is a quirky but appealing shape that brings to mind “driver’s” watches, but is an original design in itself. The newest iteration of the century-old design is the largest to date, making it a good size for a formal-dress watch even by modern standards. The case is fairly wide, and also thick enough it doesn’t feel delicate. The only aspect of the design I question is the strap, which feels too narrow, especially on a bare wrist that isn’t under a shirt cuff. Although the design is classic Cartier, the colours and details give the Cloche a more modern feel. The d...

Personal Wristwatch Of Bugatti Founder Ettore Bugatti: Made By Mido And Now Up For Auction Quill & Pad
Mido Apr 5, 2021

Personal Wristwatch Of Bugatti Founder Ettore Bugatti: Made By Mido And Now Up For Auction

Bugatti Founder Ettore Bugatti was a fanatic for details with the mind of a sculptor. His visions on four wheels still grace the most elite concours d’elegance around the world. And his personal Mido watch on a bespoke gold bracelet is set to be auctioned by Stanislas Machoïr on Saturday April 17, 2021. Martin Green shares a few more details about this priceless artifact here.

Citizen Unveils an Affordable, Integrated-Bracelet Sports Watch SJX Watches
Citizen Unveils Apr 4, 2021

Citizen Unveils an Affordable, Integrated-Bracelet Sports Watch

Unveiled alongside the flagship The Citizen Caliber 0200, the Series 8 is a line of affordable, integrated-bracelet sports watches equipped with slim automatic movements that have increased magnetism resistance. The Series 8 is made up of three sub-collections: the 870, 830, and 831. All are similar, but have different case and dial constructions, as well as different movements, but are all accessibly priced affordable, starting at $1,200 for the 831 and rising to US$2,000 for the 870. Initial thoughts The Series 8 is essentially a luxury-sports watch done accessibly – the case is angular and faceted, with both brushed and polished surfaces finishes, while the bracelet is integrated. While the styling brings to mind several other well-known watch designs, the Series 8 watches are not outright copies, which is a good thing, especially at this price range where originality harder to find. The 870 with its two-piece bezel The 830 with its three-layer dial of mother of pearl under a metal lattice Though all three models are slightly different, they are almost identical in size at 40 mm wide and a relatively thin 10-12 mm high. That’s a good size that large enough but not so big that the watch feels chunky, which is likely for this type of design beyond a certain size. The 870 with its two-colour bezel seems the most appealing of the trio, with both its case and bracelet being more streamlined. Both the 830 and 831 have the same case that’s slightly octagonal, which m...

INTRODUCING: Modernising two-tone with the 2021 Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 Collection Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 Collection While Apr 3, 2021

INTRODUCING: Modernising two-tone with the 2021 Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 Collection

While all the rage in the ’80s, many consumers have deviated away from two-tone designs in today’s marketplace. Historically two tone is comprised of stainless steel and a precious metal in a contrasting tone (such as yellow or pink gold). But forward-thinking manufacturers have realised there is possibly a better combination of tones that will … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Modernising two-tone with the 2021 Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

DOXA expands their US retail presence in partnership with Watches of Switzerland Time+Tide
Doxa expands their US retail Apr 3, 2021

DOXA expands their US retail presence in partnership with Watches of Switzerland

DOXA has enjoyed a notable resurgence over the last few years, the famed diver’s watch brand coming in strong in 2021 with a standard production line of carbon SUB 300 divers to follow up the 2020 GPHG-nominated limited edition. While DOXA watches have a cult following within the watch community, their modern timepieces are typically … ContinuedThe post DOXA expands their US retail presence in partnership with Watches of Switzerland appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Cartier Debuts Ballon Bleu Automatic 40 mm SJX Watches
Cartier Debuts Ballon Bleu Automatic Apr 2, 2021

Cartier Debuts Ballon Bleu Automatic 40 mm

Having made its debut 15 years ago, the Ballon Bleu de Cartier is an upstart by the Parisian jeweller’s standards – the Santos and Tank, for example, are both over a century old. But the Ballon Bleu was an instant hit, thanks to its classically round case with a quirky and captivating crown, making it one of the brand’s best sellers. Now a new size has joined the line up, the Ballon Bleu 40 mm powered by the in-house 1847 MC automatic movement. It sits in between the 36 mm medium and 42 mm large automatic models, neither too big nor too small for current tastes (Cartier already has a 40 mm that is hand-wind). The new 40 mm automatic also incorporates a practical upgrade: the brand’s proprietary quick-release system for the bracelet and strap. And finally, the new size also includes new dials in a simpler, metallic finish – in either blue and grey – giving it a more contemporary look. The most traditional of the Ballon Bleu variants with a silver guilloche dial Initial thoughts The Ballon Bleu is over a decade old but still attractive in a timeless manner that Cartier’s classic designs always manage to be. But it’s unusual among the brand’s best-known watch designs. While the signature Tank and Santos watches are characterised by straight, hard lines, the Ballon is a made up of spheres and domes of varied sizes – the crown, case, crystal and even the case back are all lightly rounded, giving it a pebble-like feel that’s a little organic. Given the B...

New And Nostalgic: Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph In Lime Gold And 1858 Monopusher Chronograph Origins Limited Edition 100 In Bronze Half-Hunter Case Quill & Pad
Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph Mar 30, 2021

New And Nostalgic: Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph In Lime Gold And 1858 Monopusher Chronograph Origins Limited Edition 100 In Bronze Half-Hunter Case

The new Montblanc 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 18 vibes in a decidedly cool color scheme dominated by proprietary Lime Gold, while the 1858 Monopusher Chronograph Origins Limited Edition 100 comes in a bronze case oozing with the warm look and feel of a gold-colored material of bygone days. Both look great, and Sabine Zwettler is still not sure which version she finds more appealing.

Hands-On: Longines Heritage Silver Arrow SJX Watches
Longines Heritage Silver Arrow One Mar 30, 2021

Hands-On: Longines Heritage Silver Arrow

One of several historical reissues Longines launched this year, the Heritage Silver Arrow is modelled on a wristwatch produced for a brief period starting in 1955. Named after the aluminium-bodied Mercedes race cars of the period, the watch was sleek, simple, and accented with details in the metalwork, something that the remake captures well. Notably, this is the second remake of the Silver Arrow, the first was launched in 2009 as the Silver Arrow 1955, and it had a date at three. Initial thoughts It’s becoming a cliche, but Longines does vintage remakes well and also does a lot of them. The designers at Longines are well versed with remakes, and they have clearly gotten better with time. The Silver Arrow still manages to outdo its peers in many ways, because it manages to get practically everything right. Longines’ remakes are uniformly good, but to varying degrees, and the Silver Arrow is one of the best. That’s helped by the fact that the vintage original is a straightforward watch, with only a few key elements that define the watch. Longines got all that right: the details are reasonably correct and well executed, the quality of finish is good, and the watch is a good size that evokes the feeling of the vintage original. Like all vintage remakes, the Silver Arrow is neither creative nor imaginative, but it is a handsome watch that is strong value for money. And that’s enough to make this a compelling choice for someone looking for a time-only watch in the US$2...

Up Close: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel “High Jewellery” SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Mar 26, 2021

Up Close: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel “High Jewellery”

A watch that combines the famous octagonal case with an innovative movement, the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked is unquestionably the most technically interesting time-only Audemars Piguet (AP) Royal Oak. And then there’s this bejewelled version that’s certainly a lot more extravagant, but at the same time shows off the details and finishing of the movement better. Initial thoughts This watch is the ultimate black-tie watch – time-only and eminently classical in size at just 37 mm. In fact, it’s quite a bit smaller than the 41 mm standard model, making it a discreet fit under a cuff that will probably be secured by diamond-set cufflinks. It’s also dressed up with a glossy crocodile strap and a lot of generously sized, baguette-cut diamonds – a technically-inclined watch that takes its bling seriously. But this is not just another octagonal watch with diamonds. The movement relies on a novel technical concept for better timekeeping, but its technical merits are usually overlooked because it is installed inside a “hot” watch. And this particular version of the movement is more attractively executed here than on the standard models. Because movement here is plated in silvery rhodium – no doubt to match the dazzling whiteness of the diamonds – it’s more appealing than on the non-jewelled versions that have a dark grey ruthenium finish that’s almost black. While the finishing of the two is essentially identical, the dark finish obscures much ...

Auricoste Revives the Military-Issue Type 20 Flyback Chronograph SJX Watches
Breguet Mar 26, 2021

Auricoste Revives the Military-Issue Type 20 Flyback Chronograph

Auricoste was founded in 1854 to make marine chronometers, but is best known for the Type 20 chronographs supplied to the French military in the 1950s. The brand was one of a handful that produced watches according to the “Type 20” military specification for flyback chronographs, alongside Dodane, Vixa, and most famously, Breguet. Now Auricoste has revived the military chronograph with help from vintage watch expert Fabrice Gueroux as the Flymaster Type 20. Initial thoughts Auricoste is historically significant, as far as military chronographs go – the vintage-original Type 20 is a valuable watch – though it has fallen off the radar of most watch enthusiasts today. With the Flymaster Type 20, Auricoste is playing to its strengths. The Flymaster Type 20 should appeal to those looking for a military-inspired pilot’s chronograph. As it is made by one of the original manufacturers of Type 20 watches, the Flymaster Type 20 has added historical provenance as compared to comparably priced alternatives that share a similar aesthetic. And at 3,450 €, or about US$4,100, the watch is significantly more affordable than Breguet’s Type 20, or even Zenith’s Pilot Type 20 watches. It is also a limited edition of 299 pieces, which makes its value proposition even more attractive. Faithful re-issue Auricoste and Mr Gueroux took pains to ensure that the Flymaster Type 20 retains much of the vintage original’s DNA. The Flymaster is almost a dead ringer for the original, ...

Kross Studio Introduces the Death Star Tourbillon SJX Watches
Mar 25, 2021

Kross Studio Introduces the Death Star Tourbillon

A startup that “specialises in creating innovative and exclusive art objects”, Kross Studio made its debut with the Batmobile clock, and has now turned to an even grander piece of pop culture for its first wristwatch. Modelled on the planetary genocide engine from Star Wars, the Death Star Tourbillon has a skeletonised globe on the dial that’s actually the cage of its central tourbillon. Created in collaboration with Lucasfilm, the Disney subsidiary that owns the movie franchise, the watch is actually part of the Death Star Ultimate Collector Set that includes a kyber crystal prop from Rogue One: A Star Wars Story, the 2016 film about the conception (and sabotage) of the original Death Star. Together, the two are very much something for the diehard Star Wars fan who happens to like watches. If Kross Studio’ quirky tilt towards pop culture feels similar, that’s because several of its founders are alumni of RJ-Romain Jerome, the defunct brand known for its Hello Kitty and Pokemon watches, including Marco Tedeschi, who was RJ’s chief executive prior to its demise, and Sergio Silva, the former head Romain Jerome’s manufacture. And the Romain Jerome connection is integral to the watch as well. Specifically, the idea for the central-tourbillon movement was actually conceived by Mr Tedeschi while he was studying micro-technical engineering at the École Technique de la Vallée de Joux (ETVJ). He later refined the idea and patented it in 2006. And in 2019, Mr ...

Omega Introduces the Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold SJX Watches
Omega Introduces Mar 24, 2021

Omega Introduces the Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold

Bronze dive watches are already a well established fad, and a little passé. Omega has sidestepped that by going one step further, putting its own twist on the idea with an interesting proprietary alloy that combines copper and gold. This unprecedented material makes its debut in the Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold, the flagship model in its new line of retro dive watches. Notably, because Bronze Gold is an alloy with low gold content – its proportion of the precious metal is less than 40% in contrast to 75% in ordinary 18k gold – the Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold is more affordable than the typical gold dive watch. Initial thoughts The new Seamaster 300 is the perfect watch to introduce the new alloy, since bronze is very much a material for maritime adventures, while its gold content creates a warm, slightly aged look befitting for the vintage-inspired design. The result is a watch that’s seemingly aged yet resplendent. And it’s worth pointing out the faux-vintage Super-Luminova on the dial and hands work better with the warm colours of the Seamaster Bronze Gold than on the steel version that’s evidently a modern watch in colours and style. Even though Bronze Gold is one of the most intriguing new alloys of late, Omega already has numerous gold alloys to its name – from white Canopus gold to red Sedna Gold – which makes the new alloy seem less exciting than it deserves. Still, its retail price of a bit over US$11,000 makes the Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold one of the mos...

INTRODUCING: The Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold revolutionizes how bronze wears on the wrist Time+Tide
Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold Mar 24, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold revolutionizes how bronze wears on the wrist

Bronze is nothing particularly new to dive watches. For a time now we have seen manufacturers leverage bronze for its history in diving and the precious metal like tone it carries on the wrist. But not all bronze is created equal. While collectors typically prefer natural patina, in favour of forced or faux-patina, Instagram is … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold revolutionizes how bronze wears on the wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Omega Ups the Retro with the New Seamaster 300 SJX Watches
Omega Ups Mar 23, 2021

Omega Ups the Retro with the New Seamaster 300

Introduced in 1957 alongside the Railmaster and Speedmaster as part of the trilogy of “Professional” watches for air, land, and sea, the original Seamaster 300 was Omega’s first true dive watch. Even though the Seamaster Diver now wears the mantle of the brand’s highest-spec dive watch, the vintage-inspired Seamaster 300 stands apart in Omega’s crowded catalogue with its retro aesthetic. For 2021, Omega doubles down on the vintage styling with a facelifted Seamaster 300 that’s closer to the look of the 1950s original. The new model will be available in steel, as well as the unusual proprietary alloy of Bronze Gold. A 1950s brochure for the original trilogy Initial thoughts When I first saw pictures of the new Seamaster 300, my immediate thought: “Absolutely beautiful”. I’ve always had a soft spot for the Seamaster 300, despite it being less of a “professional” watch than the Seamaster Diver. I’m a fan of its vintage aesthetic, especially how it harks back to an important era in Omega history. The new Seamaster 300, with its subtle but significant improvements, is undoubtedly the best version yet (albeit only the second iteration). Compared to its predecessor, the new model has a cleaner, more coherent design. That being said, the abundant faux-aged Super-Luminova is a bit affected. The new Seamaster 300 is being launched in a limited number of options, steel with a blue or black dial, along with the Bronze Gold model. The steel models are also ava...

Russian Custom Shop HoD Presents the “Guiding Star” SJX Watches
Mar 23, 2021

Russian Custom Shop HoD Presents the “Guiding Star”

A four-person workshop in Moscow, HoD Russia specialises custom watches at affordable prices. Because the team is made up of a sculptor, engraver, and two engineers, HoD’s offerings are diverse in style, with a focus the dial. Cofounder Vasiliy Avitisov describes the brand as specialising in “dials with high relief [made] from a variety of materials”. Amongst its recent project is the “Guiding Star”, commissioned by a watch collector based in Japan. Initial thoughts Conceived alongside the client, the Guiding Star is a good example of what HoD can do. The dial is minimalist in function, yet decorated and visually striking – and it is made in house, from raw material to finished product. The dial is made of an epoxy resin mixed and coloured in HoD’s workshop, and then machined into the dial disc. The purple contrasts against the hobnail guilloche sub-dial, while the client’s initials form the 12 o’clock market, a reminder that the Guiding Star is a custom watch. One of the joys of going full custom, so to speak, is being able to dictate even the smallest of details, such as the buckle. It’s been hand-engraved with the client’s initials flanked by a Japanese wave motif, or seigaiha. The personalised pin buckle With comparable watches starting from US$2,800, the Guiding Star illustrates the brand’s value proposition – time-0nly watches with a high degree of customisation. The affordability means that while the customisation can be elaborate, the ...

Seiko Introduces the Presage Sharp Edged GMT SJX Watches
Grand Seiko but Mar 22, 2021

Seiko Introduces the Presage Sharp Edged GMT

Named after the planar, angular case, the Sharp Edged series is one of the most striking lines in the affordable Presage collection. The latest addition to the range is the Presage Sharp Edged GMT, the first models that go beyond time-only. With a larger case and new movement, the new GMT references – SPB217, SPB219, SPB221, and SPB225 – retain the asanoha dial pattern and case design of current models, while incorporating a second time zone function and power reserve indicator. Initial thoughts It’s pretty clear that the Sharp Edges models were conceive to offer some of the Grand Seiko, but in a less elaborate watch at a more accessible price. So it’s not surprising the new Sharp Edged GMT watches resemble the Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT released last year. The dial layout is similar, as is the styling of the angular, faceted case. In many ways, the Sharp Edged GMT is the smaller brother of its Grand Seiko counterpart and one sharp-looking watch – no pun intended. Importantly, the Sharp Edged GMT is identical to the Grand Seiko GMT in terms of function. It is a true GMT watch – the second time zone hand can be set independently whilst the seconds hand is running. Majority of GMT watches in its price range are conventional movement with an added 24-hour hand, which makes setting the two time zones more tedious. Ultimately, the main attraction of the Sharp Edged GMT is its affordability. With a retail of US$1,380, the watch doesn’t have much competition ...

Montblanc Debuts the 1858 Split Second Chronograph in Lime Gold SJX Watches
Montblanc Debuts Mar 22, 2021

Montblanc Debuts the 1858 Split Second Chronograph in Lime Gold

A watchmaker that was once a prominent maker of chronographs, Minerva is the star in Montblanc’s mountain. Since the pen-turned-watchmaker took over Minerva, it has launched several chronographs powered by Minerva calibres. The flagship chronograph is arguably the mono-pusher split-second first launched in bronze two years ago. Montblanc has since rolled out several additional iterations, but in affordable alloys like titanium. Now the brand has finally unveiled the first precious-metal version, the 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 18 in “Lime Gold”. Initial thoughts Two qualities often distinguish the great from the good in chronographs – a balanced, attractive dial combined with an intricate, good-looking movement – and all the better if the watch is priced well. The 1858 Split Second Chronograph is, by the two measures, a high performer. Let’s begin with the aesthetics. While splendid looking movements with high technical content are rare, it’s even less common combined with good design on the front. That is why I appreciate the 1858 chronograph – the dial is well done, with the positions of the counters just right, giving it a rare finesse. And even though the dial is busy, the many elements are harmoniously arranged. Admittedly, the design is not new, it’s essentially a replica of early 20th century dials, but Montblanc reproduced it just right. The counters at the sweet spot, not too far from the edge of the dial The movement is simil...