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Long-awaited film “Keeper of Time” premieres worldwide this week Time+Tide
Apr 24, 2022

Long-awaited film “Keeper of Time” premieres worldwide this week

Years ago, when I watched the documentary The Watchmaker’s Apprentice, which details the journey of George Daniels and the path of watchmaker Roger W. Smith becoming his sole apprentice, I remember being awe-struck at the meticulous art of watchmaking and  the perseverance required to achieve mastery in the field. Since that documentary, however, there have not … ContinuedThe post Long-awaited film “Keeper of Time” premieres worldwide this week appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A funky take on serious watchmaking with new Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie models Time+Tide
Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie models Apr 24, 2022

A funky take on serious watchmaking with new Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie models

Named after Czapek’s third boutique – as it was the third collection released by the brand – the Czapek and Cie Faubourg de Cracovie is the company’s take on an integrated chronograph. It follows the brand ethos of intricately finished dials in vivid colours, and the Purple Panda and California Blue models we look at … ContinuedThe post A funky take on serious watchmaking with new Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie models appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Pretty in pink (and purple) – Nomos spin the colour wheel for the new Club Campus Time+Tide
Omega Apr 20, 2022

Pretty in pink (and purple) – Nomos spin the colour wheel for the new Club Campus

Colour is no longer a novelty in the watch space, with many brands releasing rainbow-inspired dials in their everyday wear pieces. We’ve extensively covered the contributions from Rolex and Omega to name but a couple. Nomos is also no stranger to colour, previously applying a bright touch to the Ahoi. With the new Club Campus “blue … ContinuedThe post Pretty in pink (and purple) – Nomos spin the colour wheel for the new Club Campus appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Chopard Unveils Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon At Watches And Wonders 2022 Quill & Pad
Chopard Unveils Alpine Eagle Flying Apr 2, 2022

Chopard Unveils Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon At Watches And Wonders 2022

At Watches and Wonders 2022, Chopard unveiled another Alpine Eagle, this time with a sophisticated escapement: a flying tourbillon. While not too long ago the high-end market seemed to be flooded with this tiny whirlwind, that no longer seems to be the case. And Sabine Zwettler thinks that there could not be a better place for a new flying tourbillon than the “Aletsch” blue dial of the Alpine Eagle.

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Mar 30, 2022

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton

A hidden gem amongst Vacheron Constantin’s sports watches, the Overseas Tourbillon is thin, understated, and good value as such things go. Now it receives a thorough makeover. Gone is the dial and excess metal from the bridges, creating the new Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton. Available in two metals, the titanium variant is particularly intriguing as it’s a metal that is rarely used by the haute horlogerie watchmaker. Titanium with blue accents Initial thoughts Though polar opposites aesthetically, the Skeleton is every bit as handsome as the standard Overseas Tourbillon. In terms of finishing, aesthetics and watchmaking, the Tourbillon Skeleton is top of its class not only in the luxury-sports category but even among the brand’s other offerings. A reason for this is the well proportioned case that measures 42.5 mm wide and only 10.39 mm tall. This results in elegant, flat-and-wide proportions that defines the most desirable luxury sports watches. These proportions gives the watch a sporty aesthetic that is further enhanced by the blackened, skeletonised movement. In comparison, the base Overseas model is smaller in diameter but slightly thicker.   It’s also thinner than a open-worked Royal Oak and Laureato tourbillon The movement within is notable for balancing simplicity and complexity, which tends to be a challenge for skeletonised movements. In comparison, I find the latest Royal Oak Openworked Tourbillon too nuanced and the GP Laureato Openworked Tourbillon t...

Review: the new The Longines Legend Diver in Gray Deployant
Longines Legend Diver Mar 19, 2022

Review: the new The Longines Legend Diver in Gray

Longines have often produced interesting pieces for its Heritage collection, and the new Legend Diver is no exception. The new gray colored dial comes as an addition to the growing colorways namely blue, beige and burgundy of the model. It gives fans of the LLD more options to choose from, without deviating from the iconic design of the watch. The watch is priced at S$3,590.00.

MB&F; Legacy Machines: 10th Anniversary Retrospective And LMX – Reprise Quill & Pad
MB&F; Mar 19, 2022

MB&F; Legacy Machines: 10th Anniversary Retrospective And LMX – Reprise

In 2021 MB&F; celebrated the tenth anniversary of the Legacy Machine collection and, fittingly, introduced a brand-new model to mark this milestone. While that watch is definitely increditastic, Joshua Munchow takes us on a journey through all the models, looking at key points and how the concept has evolved over the years before ending up with MB&F;'s piece for the anniversary, LMX.

The Collector’s Crossroads: Omega upended my chronograph search with the new Speedmaster ’57 Time+Tide
Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Mar 18, 2022

The Collector’s Crossroads: Omega upended my chronograph search with the new Speedmaster ’57

For months now, I’ve been looking for a mechanical chronograph to add to my small collection. It’s a complication I’ve always loved. And after weeks of research, and multiple list comparing watches, I set my sights on the Breitling Chronomat B01 42 in blue. I even recently visited the Breitling boutique in NYC to try … ContinuedThe post The Collector’s Crossroads: Omega upended my chronograph search with the new Speedmaster ’57 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds stands out in the sea of green Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Mar 16, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds stands out in the sea of green

Jaeger-LeCoultre are seemingly incapable of producing a watch that doesn’t melt the hearts and wallets of watch enthusiasts worldwide, as they have proven again with the Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds in a glowing green. The watch comes in three dial colours with matching straps including deep blue and luscious burgundy, but this green machine … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds stands out in the sea of green appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Auction Watch: Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip” on Loupe This [Updated with Result] SJX Watches
Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip” Mar 13, 2022

Auction Watch: Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Poker Chip” on Loupe This [Updated with Result]

A limited edition launched at the end of 2021, the Zenith Chronometer Revival “Poker Chip” was the result of a collaboration between our founder and the watchmakers in Le Locle. One of them just popped up for sale at online auctioneer Loupe This – the first example to go under the hammer. The 200 pieces sold out at launch, making this a perfect opportunity for anyone who missed out last year. If the funky dial appears familiar, that’s because the Poker Chip reimagines the G383, one of the standout designs from the first references of the El Primero. While the G383 had a lavish, gold-on-black palette, the Poker Chip is entirely contemporary. Its dial is generously “lumed” – even the strap glows in the dark – bringing it to life at night, with the aesthetic alluding to the disco era of 1960s and 1970s when the G383 was born. [Update March 17, 2022: The Poker Chip sold for US$16,500 including fees on Loupe This.] The case is a micro-blasted titanium coated in DLC, which complements the military-esque dial. Notably the Poker Chip was the first – and remains the only – classic, 38 mm El Primero with a titanium case. Continuing the blend of new and old, the movement is the original El Primero 400 that’s almost identical to the 1969 original. As it is being phased out, this movement was chosen instead of the latest-generation El Primero 3600 (which has a lightning seconds), making the Poker Chip one of the last watches with the landmark calibre. Accompani...

How I changed my mind about the Rolex Explorer II (and why it now rarely leaves my wrist…) Time+Tide
Rolex Explorer II Mar 8, 2022

How I changed my mind about the Rolex Explorer II (and why it now rarely leaves my wrist…)

A long time ago in a land far away (2012 / Canada), I embarked on the journey of watch collecting. I had saved enough to confidently go into the local Rolex authorised dealer and strike up a deal. Ten years ago, you could actually negotiate a discount on some of these watches, which was the … ContinuedThe post How I changed my mind about the Rolex Explorer II (and why it now rarely leaves my wrist…) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Hermès Arceau Space Derby SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Mar 2, 2022

Hands-On: Hermès Arceau Space Derby

Unveiled last year as part of Hermes’ annual collection of metiers d’art watches, the Arceau Space Derby is typical Hermes with its equestrian motif, but also strikingly different since the dial depicts a jockey riding a robot horse past planets and stars. The Space Derby is actually a pair of watches, a smaller one for ladies with the dial in pink opaline glass, and a larger model for men with an aventurine glass dial that is detailed below. But both have a similar motif on the dial that was taken from an Hermes scarf designed by French filmmaker and cartoonist Ugo Bienvenu. The larger, 41 mm Space Derby Initial thoughts Hermes adapts many of its most famous scarves for metiers d’art watches. Most of the resulting dials are whimsical and subtle in a manner typical of the brand. And Hermes does more of such watches, both in terms of range as well as number, than its immediate rivals Louis Vuitton and Chanel. The diversity of its offerings with artisanal dials is impressive in both style and technique – though horses, big cats, and birds are recurring themes – but even so the Space Derby is unique. While the theme of the Space Derby is still equestrian, it is has a pop art aspect that sets it apart from the usual metiers d’art fare from Hermes. So it’s still recognisably an Hermes watches, but a bit more funky and very much different. But the Space Derby is more than just a fancy dial. As is increasingly the case with fashion and leather goods brands, it is eq...

Rolf Lang Combines Lalique Crystal and a Hand-Made Tourbillon in a Table Clock SJX Watches
Feb 27, 2022

Rolf Lang Combines Lalique Crystal and a Hand-Made Tourbillon in a Table Clock

German independent watchmaker Rolf Lang produces both wristwatches and clocks – including a lavish gold egg containing a marine chronometer – and he now turns to French glassmaker Lalique for his latest sculptural clock. Their collaboration resulted in the Phoenix Clock that is entirely hand engraved and equipped with a gigantic tourbillon – held aloft by a glass-crystal sculpture of a soaring eagle with wings spread. Rolf Lang Initial thoughts Like the ultra-luxe egg clock of 2018, the Phoenix is appealing for its strong design and craftsmanship. The father of independent watchmaker Marco Lang, Rolf Lang’s house style is highly decorative and rooted in 19th century watchmaking so the aesthetic means the clock is not for everyone, but it is certainly impressive for those who appreciate what it is. With its ornate decoration, the Phoenix evokes the elaborate clocks and watches made for the Chinese market in the 19th century. It has an old-fashioned style and quality that stands in contrast with most contemporary watchmaking. And the clock excels at what it does, which is to impress while sitting on a desk. Still, it manages to be different and slightly modern as a result of the to the clever use of high-contrast materials. The crystal sculpture is splendid, and the clock itself is even more attractive with the ultra-large tourbillon sitting in full view under a glass sphere. While it has a big price tag, the Phoenix is special; there are nothing quite like it ...

HANDS ON: The NOMOS Tangente neomatik platinum grey is a monochrome twist on Bauhaus style Time+Tide
Nomos Tangente neomatik platinum grey Feb 24, 2022

HANDS ON: The NOMOS Tangente neomatik platinum grey is a monochrome twist on Bauhaus style

Synonymous with high quality and original design, NOMOS serves up an update to one of their most emphatically Bauhaus designs. This pairing of Tangente models showcases the new platinum grey dial colour, which adds welcome variety to the line-up of mostly white and blue offerings thus far. Tangente – Bauhaus personified Famously conceived by Walter … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The NOMOS Tangente neomatik platinum grey is a monochrome twist on Bauhaus style appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

My 5 favourite watches of the last 12 months Time+Tide
Feb 22, 2022

My 5 favourite watches of the last 12 months

Editor’s note: Sometimes you want an informed opinion. You have a problem with your knee – you speak to a doctor. You urgently need to get bail after some unfortunate “misunderstanding” lands you in jail – you put a call into your trusty lawyer. But if you want to get a subjective overview of the … ContinuedThe post My 5 favourite watches of the last 12 months appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar “Tutorial” SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Feb 15, 2022

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar “Tutorial”

Already “fool-proof” as complicated watches go, the H. Moser & Cie. perpetual calendar has just been given a stylish facelift, resulting in a pair of watches bearing the signature smoked blue dial. The first of the two is the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue that is almost identical to its predecessor but even more minimalist with a barely-there logo in transparent lacquer. But the headline model is surely the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tutorial, which has a whimsical user guide on the dial. The Tutorial (left) and the Funky Blue Initial thoughts I like the Tutorial because it has an ingenious movement and a sense of humour. Though the dial is the only element that’s different with the Tutorial, it is certainly an improved watch than its predecessor, simply because it perfectly encapsulates the quirkiness that defines H. Moser & Cie. The dial is so obvious that the watch really does stand out – it is certainly s a conversation piece. But it is the juxtaposition of the tongue-in-cheek schematics on the dial and the serious mechanics underneath gives the watch an amusing, original character. Perhaps only the Schaffhausen-based watchmaker that can pull this off without looking silly, given its technical competence and humorous spirit. That said, the “cheat sheet” dial is entirely practical, as it helps with both adjusting and reading the calendar – somewhat ironically since the Moser perpetual calendar mechanism is one of the most fuss free on the ma...

With the Nautilus 5711 now gone, three independents look to usurp the integrated sports watch throne Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Nautilus ref 5711 across Feb 13, 2022

With the Nautilus 5711 now gone, three independents look to usurp the integrated sports watch throne

I know that 5711 Nautilus talk is getting a bit old. Run ending green dials, Tiffany blue dial madness, $6.5m dollar bids at auction etc. But now it really is gone. Done. The Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5711, across all metals, have been removed from the catalogue. While this discontinuation has skyrocketed the secondary premiums … ContinuedThe post With the Nautilus 5711 now gone, three independents look to usurp the integrated sports watch throne appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

H. Moser & Cie x The Armoury Endeavour Small Seconds Total Eclipse: The Dark Side Of Elegance Quill & Pad
H. Moser & Cie x Feb 10, 2022

H. Moser & Cie x The Armoury Endeavour Small Seconds Total Eclipse: The Dark Side Of Elegance

As the resident gentleman of Quill & Pad, the H. Moser & Cie x The Armoury Endeavour Small Seconds Total Eclipse should have Martin Green's name written all over it. Yet when he first saw the watch, he didn’t boil over with excitement. This is not the first logoless, minimalistic watch that Moser has made, so what does it add to what is already there? Read on to discover the answer.

WHAT TWEAKS MY TOURB: When a watch loses time… Time+Tide
Seiko VK64 mechaquartz movements Jan 19, 2022

WHAT TWEAKS MY TOURB: When a watch loses time…

Editor’s Note: “What Tweaks my Tourb” is a recurring series where I reveal the things that irk me within my own watch-collecting journey. Previously I touched on clasp sizing, asymmetrical running seconds registers, and Seiko VK64 mechaquartz movements. This week will be arguably my most pathologically nitpicky yet, but then again I suspect a lot of … ContinuedThe post WHAT TWEAKS MY TOURB: When a watch loses time… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Grand Seiko SBGN007 (#12) Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGN007 #12 Editor’s note Jan 12, 2022

THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Grand Seiko SBGN007 (#12)

Editor’s note: The Time+Tide team reviewed hundreds of watches in 2021. Here we count down the Top 30 reviews of the year that you liked best on the basis of the online traffic. At number 12, it’s the Grand Seiko SBGN007… Your first good watch is an important step in your watch collecting journey. It … ContinuedThe post THE TOP WATCH REVIEWS OF 2021 – The Grand Seiko SBGN007 (#12) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.