Hodinkee
Dispatch: The Watches, People, And Community Of Dubai Watch Week
A photo-packed report from the last show of the season with local limited editions, rare vintage references, piece uniques, and so much more.
Results for The 2017-2022 Vintage Market Boom
41,683 articles · 30 videos found · page 122 of 1391
Hodinkee
SJX Watches
Seiko Drops a Pair of Retro Automatic Chronographs with the Speedtimer
Having expanded its range of chronographs with a homage to stopwatches and, more recently, new models inspired by the Kinetic Chronograph, Seiko now introduces a pair of vintage-inspired chronographs. The Prospex Speedtimer (SRQ047 and SRQ049) features a distinctively retro style reminiscent of the 1970s and sports a “panda” style dial but with a more compact case than its predecessor. The “panda” SRQ047 is regular production while the “reverse panda” SRQ049 is a limited edition to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the first Seiko wristwatch. Initial thoughts Since its introduction in 2021, the Speedtimer had quite a significant design flaw – its bulky case, measuring over 15 mm high. Therefore, it’s highly gratifying to learn that the brand has opted to refresh the Speedtimer with a more traditional dial and a slimmer case size. Concerning its design, the new models evoke a sense of familiarity by featuring a more rounded case in contrast to the previous Speedtimer models. Furthermore, the brand has introduced a dash of colour to the “panda” style dial by adding an orange tip to the chronograph hands. The limited edition reverse panda model. However, it’s worth noting that the watch has a date window located between four and five. This feature seems somewhat out of place and could have been omitted for a more streamlined look. The standard production Speedtimer is priced at US$2,500, with an additional US$200 for the limited edition. The new mod...
SJX Watches
Longines’ New Legend Diver in the Old Size
Recognised by its distinctive dual crowns and an internal rotating bezel, the Longines Legend Diver pays homage to history while embracing modern enhancements. Already a mainstay of Longines’ reissue sports watches, the Legend Diver has undergone a transformation and now features a redesigned and smaller 39 mm case that faithfully echoes the original (while it predecessor was 41 mm). Initial thoughts The new Legend Diver carefully retains the vintage styling of its predecessor. Traditionalists will appreciate the absence of the date that was found on the prior version. The absent dial preserves the dial’s clean and uncluttered aesthetic. But the new Legend Diver is not just a remake. Inside is the cal. 888.6, an upgraded ETA calibre that stands out with a 72-hour power reserve and magnetic resistance that exceeds the ISO 764 standard by ten times thanks to a silicon hairspring. And the dial similarly retains the design of the vintage original, but is executed in a modern manner with two colours of Super-Luminova, green and blue. This not only adds a touch of excellence to the design but also enhances readability in low-light conditions. On its face, the downsizing to 39 mm may not align with the conventions of a tool watch, especially one conceived for diving. However, this shift in size caters better to daily wear and better reproduces the original’s dimensions. Unfortunately, the reduction in diameter doesn’t go hand in hand with a decrease in thickness, so the ...
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: A Beautiful Vintage Zodiac, a Pair of Affordable Seikos, and an Uncommon Seth Thomas Stingray Chronograph
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage 1970s Zodiac Automatic Day-Date w/ Mesh Zodiac Band Zodiac is most well known to vintage watch collectors for their incredible Sea Wolf divers, but they also made a plethora of other models, including this early 1970’s sporty dress watch which has loads of vintage style. The silver dial has applied block steel markers, stick hands and a day date window at 3 o’clock that is opposite of the Zodiac script which gives the dial a nice balance. The steel case is unpolished with sharp edges and original finish, and the watch has the original signed crown to boot. A nice touch is that this gem comes on the original Zodiac signed mesh bracelet made by JB Champion. Really nice looking and subtly blingy piece. View auction here Seiko 5 Vintage 5126-8110 Next up is a great looking vintage Seiko 5 from 1968. This model 5126-8110 has a little bit of everything. The steel case is unpolished with sharp edges and you can tell it is a distant relative of the Grammar of Design school of aesthetics from the King and Grand Seiko lines. The charcoal dial is super clean, with lume filled, applied steel markers and the usual day/date window at 3 o’clock. To me, the best part of this one i...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Baltic x Perpétuel Gallery Tropical Tricompax Is The Duo's Best Release Yet
It's a Middle East-twist on the microbrand-meets-vintage format that I immediately fell in love with.
Worn & Wound
The Longines Legend Diver is Now Available in a Smaller, 39mm Case
The Longines Legend Diver is a perennial contender insofar as enthusiasts are concerned, and it truly feels like it has always been relevant. Dual crown case, distinctive hands, inner rotating bezel – these have really come to define a model that has become a core of the Longines sport watch lineup. Indeed, it was part of the opening salvo of vintage-inspired tool watches that shifted an entire industry towards that genre over the last decade; in fact there is a non-zero chance the timepiece you are wearing as you read this exists thanks in part to the Legend Diver. Lately the Spirit line has garnered a lot of attention (and for good reason) but Longines has not left its dive watch to languish. After 16(!) long years since Longines reintroduced the model back in 2007, they have refreshed their most famous dive watch. Spoiler alert: there’s a lot to like. Updates to the Legend Diver have been made both inside and out. There’s no need to bury the lede here: the most notable change is that the case has been redesigned and downsized from 42mm to 39mm. More on that in a moment. It still utilizes Longines’ exclusive L888 movement, which is now COSC certified. Longines claims their movements are cased then tested continuously for 15 days across three temperature levels and numerous positions before certification. Another notable change is that the date at 3 o’clock is now nowhere to be found. This is part of Longines’ effort in achieving ISO 6425 certification, whi...
Worn & Wound
Norqain Introduces the First Wild ONE Featuring Solid Gold, Plus a New Blacked Out Version
We’re a little more than a year into the life of the Wild ONE, Norqain’s ambitious sports watch featuring their proprietary Norteq material. In a catalog of watches that are mostly inspired by classic, vintage watch design cues, the Wild ONE stands out as being unapologetically modern, both in terms of its aesthetics and the raw materials. This watch is part of an ongoing turn within the industry to alternative materials based in carbon fibers, plastics, and uncommon metals and alloys. According to Norqain, the combination of Norteq and rubber used in the case allows for a watch that can be rated to an unreal 5,000g shock test, which would likely create an impact that the wearer would have a hard time walking away from. Norqain has been framing the Wild ONE all along as a pure sports watch, but with these latest variants, I continue to wonder if it’s really more of an incredibly impact resistant design object. To be clear, I like this watch as a design object. I’m not taking it mountain biking, rock climbing, skiing, or anything else that the Norqain team thinks I might want to do with it. But I do like the way it looks and the way it’s made, and I think the latest releases seen here expand on the design language in a fun way. First up is the first Wild ONE to make use of solid gold, the aptly named Wild ONE Gold. The top section of the case is crafted from polished 18-carat red gold, with the base section made of black Norteq. The middle features the Wild ONE...
Time+Tide
The Arsène Lippens Visionario references your grail 1940s chronographs, with an unexpected movement
Tri-stepped case, pump pushers and a pulsometer scales - all the ingredients for a great vintage-inspired chronograph are there.The post The Arsène Lippens Visionario references your grail 1940s chronographs, with an unexpected movement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – JT
Editor’s note: In this 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader JT takes us through watches from his own personal collection, purchased largely on the pre-owned market for under $5,000. This real-life 3 for 5k is also thematically coherent, to say the least, with a trio of white dialed sports watches that cover a lot of ground, and somehow work well together as a thoughtful, wearable collection that features an indie favorite, a hot collaboration, and an uncommon example of a classic chronograph. You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. Omega Speedmaster Reduced “Marui” (3510.20) – $3,000 This was the watch that started it all. I have a small wrist (6.25″), and I love white objects (Kenya Hara’s book, “White,” resides next to my white camera collection). I fell in love with the Omega Speedmaster Alaska Project, and after lots of research and patience, I decided I wanted a Speedmaster Reduced, and subsequently secured this Speedmaster for a very reasonable price. Image courtesy Bob’s Watches It didn’t come with a bracelet, but it actually worked in my favor because I wanted to pair it with a flat link (AKA Ed White) bracelet anyway, so it helped me bring the cost of the watch lower (an OEM 1469/811 is worth at least $500). Seiko x Rowing Blazers 5 Sports – $500 After spending way too much time doing my research, “buying the seller,” and reading forums to check my work, the inte...
Time+Tide
Take a dark plunge with the Ball Engineer II Skindiver Heritage Manufacture Chronometer
Ball outfits their vintage-inspired Skindiver with an in-house calibre and a super-hard case coating.The post Take a dark plunge with the Ball Engineer II Skindiver Heritage Manufacture Chronometer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
‘The Timepiece Gentleman’ Anthony Farrer arrested by FBI, faces fraud charge and 20 years in prison
A timely reminder than when shopping for vintage watches, you need to 'buy the seller'...The post ‘The Timepiece Gentleman’ Anthony Farrer arrested by FBI, faces fraud charge and 20 years in prison appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
The Fourth Mathey-Tissot Collaboration with Massena LAB is a Colorful Tribute to 1968
Now in their fourth collaboration together, Swiss brand Mathey-Tissot and Massena LAB have once again brought their individual strengths to give us the Chronograph ‘68. This vintage-inspired watch is the best of both worlds: providing a great timepiece, while also being a stylish, vintage inspired accessory for anyone looking for an upgrade to their wrist rotation. The impetus for this watch’s design comes from the tumultuous year of 1968. As Mathey-Tissot recounts the various cultural shifts during this period in history, one really has the sense that there was a dramatic change happening as the world was preparing to ring in a new decade. Mathey-Tissot and Massena cite events like Arthur Ashe’s historic victory at the U.S. Open and the emergence of “mod” culture in London as important cultural touchstones from the year, and the Chronograph ‘68 exists as a kind of tribute to a very specific point in history by adhering to particular aesthetic choices rooted in late ‘60s watch design. To commemorate this period, Mathey-Tissot and Massena LAB looked at various reference points of watches that were sold during the 1960’s. The result is an amalgamation of design elements that work seamlessly together to make a timeless watch that could easily be made today or 60 years ago. From the black dial against the 41mm stainless steel case, to the reflective hour markers, to the three colorful registers in red, white, and blue, the balance of neutral design and pops of ...
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Baltic Hermetique Tourer
When you look at Baltic’s lineup, you may have noticed the absence of a field watch. After tackling dive watches, GMTs, and other platforms, all with an eye toward a specific type of vintage elegance, Baltic has released the Hermetique Tourer - their take on the classic go-anywhere, do-anything field watch. Field watches are great, don’t get me wrong, but when so many are built to a specific military specification, they start to get a little bit stale. That’s not the case at all with Baltic’s newest field-ready wrist companion. The Hermétique takes those classic defining elements of a field watch and elevates them with style to fit Baltic’s overall aesthetic. Let’s jump in and take a closer look at this fun, reasonably-priced, and feature-packed entry into a new category of watches from Paris’ own Baltic Watches. $590 Hands-On: the Baltic Hermetique Tourer Case Stainless steel Movement Miyota 9039 Dial Green Lume Yes, hands and markers Lens Sapphire Strap Tropic rubber, stainless bracelet Water Resistance 150 meters Dimensions 37 x 46mm Thickness 10.8mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Integrated, push down Warranty Yes Price $590 Case At first glance, the 37mm case looks surprisingly sleek. In case you missed it, the crown on the right side of the case pushes in to a point where it’s flush with the lines of the case, giving the Hermétique a largely circular appearance. While we tend to praise field and pilot watches for their large, accessible crowns, it’s nic...
Worn & Wound
New To The Windup Watch Shop – Nivada Grenchen
At times the vintage watch world can seem like the Wild West: rife with danger and opportunity at the same time. Many who have gone deep down the rabbit hole may have discovered incredibly interesting watches at good value in mid-century watchmaking stalwart Nivada Grenchen. Established in 1926, the Swiss-based brand made a name for itself by building robust timepieces and was one of the first to mass-produce automatically winding watches. Nivada Grenchen, like many others, struggled through the Quartz Crisis but was relaunched in 2018 with the help of entrepreneurs Guillame Laidet and Remi Chabrat. It has emerged from the gates with a core lineup composed of some of its most beloved watches from the 20th century, and from a vintage enthusiast’s vantage point, few brands are doing it like Nivada Grenchen. Every model and configuration oozes old-school cool and has been thoughtfully reinterpreted for today. The Windup Watch Shop is proud to welcome Nivada Grenchen and offer two of its most famous models: The OG Antarctic and the inimitable Chronomaster. At times the vintage watch world can seem like the Wild West: rife with danger and opportunity at the same time. Many who have gone deep down the rabbit hole may have discovered incredibly interesting watches at good value in mid-century watchmaking stalwart Nivada Grenchen. Established in 1926, the Swiss-based brand made a name for itself by building robust timepieces and was one of the first to mass-produce automatically...
Hodinkee
Pre-Owned Picks: A Race-Ready Omega Made For A Legend, The Latest Edition Of The Breitling Navitimer, And A Limited Edition Treat From Jaeger-LeCoultre
Plus a Grand Seiko for the U.S. market and a Zenith for Japan.
Worn & Wound
Certina Enters the Affordable Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch Arena with the New DS-7 Powermatic 80
The affordable integrated bracelet sports watch wars have been waged on multiple fronts for many months at this point, and now, in a surprising development to some, they’ve hit the Swatch Group in a major way. Since its introduction, the Tissot PRX has been the standard bearer in the value driven integrated bracelet sports watch market, offering a huge variety of dial colors, sizes, and movement options at a price point that makes them compelling for collectors curious to try out what is undoubtedly still the hottest variety of sporty watch in the greater horological landscape. But now, a new challenger has emerged from within, with the introduction of Certina’s DS-7 Powermatic 80. Certina, at least in the United States, is frequently overlooked, as the brand doesn’t have significant distribution here, but they hold a key spot in the Swatch Group’s roster of brands on the more affordable side of the spectrum, and the new integrated offering here is an interesting and subtle contrast with the vaunted PRX. The PRX is notable for its highly angular case shape, inspired by a distinctly 1980s design language. Particularly in quartz variants, it feels decidedly retro while still giving more than a whiff of Royal Oak if you just give it a quick glance. The DS-7 as seen here is a very different animal, with a much softer and rounder case shape and bracelet integration. If the PRX conjures the 1980s, the DS-7 feels more like a 1970s throwback, particularly considering som...
Time+Tide
This rare vintage Rolex Sky-Rocket has a valuation that may surprise you
Vintage Rolex and Antiques Roadshow - name a better love story than that.The post This rare vintage Rolex Sky-Rocket has a valuation that may surprise you appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Panerai Leans Traditional with the Radiomir Officine PAM01385
Pared back in style, this vintage-inspired limited edition from Panerai takes a simple approach in revisiting a historical design. With a faux-aged dial colour and conical crown, the Radiomir Officine PAM01385 celebrates the anniversary of the original Radiomir prototype of 1935. Priced well at just over US$5,000, it’s a limited edition with just 300 examples being made. Initial thoughts The execution of this is clean and will please those who appreciate historical Panerai design. There is nothing added on that doesn’t need to be there, and there are small details which play to those who know their Panerai history. It’s not an exact remake of a vintage model, but has a functional aesthetic that sticks to the spirit of the originals. As an aside, while I’ve never been a fan of mock ageing, the “tropical” dial is an even colour that doesn’t have a fake gradient to it, and so it can arguably be seen as a simple colour choice, rather than recreating faded pigment. Another notable detail is the 45 mm case. Oversized by most standards, it’s actually more compact than the average historical Radiomir as well as modern-day remakes, which were usually 47 mm. This makes it more wearable, while still looking big enough to retain the Panerai feel. Given the historical background of this design, and the appealing, no-frills design, the price of US$5,400 is good value, particularly when compared against Panerai models like the Radiomir California. With just 300 piec...
SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Endeavour Chinese Calendar
Having already one of the smartest perpetual calendars on the market, H. Moser & Cie. adds another calendar to its repertoire with the Endeavour Chinese Calendar. Sporting a double retrograde display, the new watch displays the traditional Chinese calendar, a lunisolar calendar that operates on the motions of the Sun and Moon, along with the Chinese zodiac. Unlike past watches with a Chinese calendar, the new Endeavour has a clean, modern aesthetic. Initial thoughts The Endeavour Chinese Calendar isn’t the first wristwatch to incorporate a traditional Chinese calendar, though it has the most concise display and is probably the easiest to understand. Past watches with Chinese calendars from the likes of Blancpain were traditional displays of the traditional Chinese calendar with as many Chinese characters as possible, resulting in busy dials. Moser, on the other hand, opted for minimalism with retrograde scales and Arabic numerals for the calendars. The only downside of the calendar display is its size; the tiny numerals mean a magnifier is probably necessary. In short, the Endeavour Chinese Calendar is a smart take on the traditional Chinese calendar, but one that could do with larger numerals. A lunisolar calendar Now mostly used for ceremonial purposes like public holidays and determine auspicious dates, the traditional Chinese calendar is a lunisolar calendar that depends on the Moon and Sun. A month for instance is the time between two new moons, with either 29 or 3...
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: Vintage Chronographs & LED Screens
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Sheffield First up this week is a sweet vintage Sheffield “panda” dial chronograph. This gem has a 38mm chrome plated case that is in great shape, with almost no pitting and nice sharp edges. The dial is silver with black sub dials, and it looks fantastic, with clean steel stick hands and a bright orange chronograph seconds hand. This one is powered by the ubiquitous work horse Valjoux 7733 manual wind movement that is clean and runs well per the seller. Vintage chronographs are highly sought after, and “no-name” examples like this Sheffield can go for a very reasonable price, even with a well made and well known movement like the Valjoux 7733. Great chance to get a nice vintage chronograph without breaking the bank. View auction here. Vintage Wittnauer Here’s a gorgeous vintage Wittnauer with an amazing dial. The simple white dial has super cool faceted applied steel hour markers at 3, 6, 9 and 12, with no date, and simple little dots for the minutes. Big lume filled steel dauphine hands compliment the look. The 33.5mm steel case looks unpolished with nice sharp edges and stylish curved lugs. The original crown is signed with the Wittnauer “W” logo. The manual w...
Teddy Baldassarre
The 25 Most Expensive Watches Ever Sold at Auction
How much would you pay for a watch? What if it was the only one of its kind, or a record-breaker in terms of complications, or once owned by someone famous or historically significant? And just how expensive are the most expensive watches to ever change hands in a sale? In today's red-hot watch auction market, the answers, and the sums, may surprise you. Here we run down the list of the top 25 watches in descending order of the price they fetched on the auction block, while spotlighting some of the timepieces with the most fascinating backstories and representing the most impressive technical achievements. You'll find the expected abundance of watches from Patek Philippe and Rolex (the clear leaders in the category) but also a few from other watchmakers, large and small, who've recently broken into the upper echelon. At the end, we'll spotlight the highest selling watches from a few other brands that didn't crack the top 25 but maintain a robust presence on the watch auction scene. 1. Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300A-010 ($31.19 million, 2019, Christie’s) Patek Philippe unveiled the first Grandmaster Chime watch in 2014 as part of the many celebrations around the Genevan maison’s 175the anniversary. The reference that made history at the Only Watch auction in Geneva in 2019 was a unique piece, the only Grandmaster Chime ever crafted in stainless steel; the Grandmaster Chime models in Patek’s regular collection are all made in precious metals. The watch...
SJX Watches
Habring2 Introduces the Shellman 50th Anniversary Black “Gilt”
Following the anniversary edition with a silvered “sector” dial, Tokyo retailer Shellman announces another small-run limited edition with the Habring² Shellman 50th Anniversary “Black”. Available as a chronograph or time-only, the new edition is limited to just 15 watches each. It retains the dial design of the earlier edition, but now in a black “gilt” finish and matched with a stepped bezel. Initial thoughts Vintage-inspired “sector” dials aren’t novel at all, but the new Shellman duo, like the original edition, stand out for their details. At the same time, the fact that they are Habring² means the price-performance ratio is excellent. Amongst the details that make this appealing are the applied markers, gold-powder print, as well as the matched silvered hands for the chronograph. These reveal an attention to detail in the design – unsurprising since Shellman is a respected seller of vintage watches – proving the whole here is greater than the sum of the parts. Though these are slightly more expensive than the first edition – the price is up about 10% – both models now include a steel bracelet. Add to that the weak Japanese yen, and these are a greater value buy than the original pair. Vintage-inspired Created to mark Shellman’s 50th anniversary, the original silver dial model was a nod to the retailer’s 2017 Habring² limited edition – which was launched well before “sector” dials became a fad. The new pair continue with the same ...
![[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: the Tudor Black Bay “Burgundy”](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2023/10/Tudor_Blackbay_red_16.jpg)
Worn & Wound
[VIDEO] Owner’s Review: the Tudor Black Bay “Burgundy”
I don’t look at Tudor in the same way as some of my colleagues. I’ve always liked and admired the brand, and I’ve owned their watches in the past, but for me they come up well short of a brand that I’ve ever obsessed over. They make very good watches, and represent an excellent value in the larger market, but when a new Tudor is released and the entire Watch Internet stops in its tracks to dissect it to the micron, I always feel a little lost. They just don’t inspire a desire to dive into that level of analysis for me. It’s how I feel about ER versus The Sopranos. Both shows I love and find myself rewatching often. I could podcast every week about The Sopranos, but I just don’t have a lot to say about ER. But when I saw the new Black Bay 41 in burgundy at Watches & Wonders this year, it felt different. It was like the Tudor portion of my brain, which might previously have been lobotomized, was magically activated, possibly for the very first time. It could have been the high of that first meeting of the show, the lighting in the booth, being in an over-caffeinated state, or the promise of those little sandwiches in the press lounge in a matter of hours, but I was in a particularly receptive mood for this watch. I remember it immediately standing out among their entire crop of releases, which had not yet been through the cycle of hype to come. I distinctly recall thinking that the new 41mm Black Bay was going to be the star pupil of this year’s novelties, ...
SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Unveils the New and Improved Constant Escapement
Still one of the most notable escapements on the market despite being a decade old, Girard-Perregaux’s double-wheel-and-silicon invention has been refined and revived as the Neo Constant Escapement. Presented in titanium, the Neo Constant Escapement is the regular production version of the unique piece in pink gold made for Only Watch 2023. The calibre within is a revamped version of the 2013 original that retains the double escape wheels and integral constant-force silicon spring, but reworked for superior function. Initial thoughts Technically impressive as it was, the original Constant Escapement (CE) from 2013 was huge (the case was 48 mm, making size one of its biggest weakness) and expensive at the time. That explains in part why the CE never caught on despite its merits. The revamp of the watch ten years old has substantially improved both its function and form. The Neo Constant Escapement (NCE) is both more wearable and more appealing in terms of design. Besides being more compact, the “Neo” case also has a highly domed crystal that shows off the escapement well. Even though the watch has been redesigned, the NCE retains the hyper-modern, open-worked styling of the original. The look certainly suits the inventive nature of the silicon escapement, though it would have been interesting if GP experimented with a classical design, which might have been ironic but attractive for the contrasting ideas. Equally important is the fact that the retail price remains ab...
SJX Watches
The Longines Spirit Flyback Chronograph, Now in Lightweight Titanium
After the release of the scaled-down version of the Spirit Zulu Time, Longines has unveiled a new iteration of the Spirit Flyback Chronograph. This variation features a titanium case and bracelet, and an anthracite dial only for now, while preserving the design of the existing steel models. Initial thoughts Longines should be acknowledged for its success in creating vintage-style watches, as evident in its aviation-inspired Spirit collection, notably the Flyback Chronograph. The introduction of this chronograph in titanium shows a continuation of this successful run, despite its large case size. As for this timepiece, it maintains the design features and case dimensions of the steel Spirit Flyback. However, it’s worth noting that it is currently only offered with an anthracite dial. It would have been preferable for the new case material to be accompanied by a new dial colour to truly make this release stand out. The titanium Spirit Flyback is offered with two strap options: one with a NATO strap priced at US$4,850 and another with a bracelet priced at US$5,200. Despite a modest price increase compared to the steel models, it continues to deliver exceptional value for its quality. The Flyback in titanium Much like its steel counterparts, the titanium Spirit Flyback Chronograph exudes a distinct vintage-inspired design. Presently, it is only offered with a sun ray brushed anthracite dial as compared to the steel models available in either black or blue dials. The stee...
Worn & Wound
MAEN Launches the Third Version of their Skymaster 38 with a New Movement and a Surprising Collaborator
MAEN Watches has relaunched their vintage inspired Skymaster 38 chronograph over the weekend, adding three new updated references to the collection, including a surprising limited edition. The Skymaster feels like a watch right in MAEN’s wheelhouse: a sports watch with an aesthetic that’s clearly inspired by the past, but executed at an incredibly high level with a surprising level of detail, all at a price point that makes these watches tough to ignore. I spent some time recently with MAEN’s Brooklyn 36 reference, an old school triple calendar, and was pleasantly surprised at the level of refinement on a watch that comes in at well under $1,000. The Skymaster, now in a MKIII version, contains many similar small details. There are two big changes with this third edition of the Skymaster 38. First, the watch now runs on the new Sellita SW510Mb manually wound movement, and the case has gone through a series of little adjustments to properly house it. Previous versions of the Skymaster used automatic movements, so the inclusion of a manually wound caliber here represents a significant change, and really plays into the heritage angle of a release like this. Secondly, in addition to offering a 12 hour bezel, MAEN is now making the Skymaster with an optional tachymeter bezel as well. The more prominent tachymeter bezel changes the appearance of the Skymaster dramatically, and should prove popular with collectors who are after a more traditionally styled racing chronograp...
Worn & Wound
Nomos Brings Back the Classic Club with Some Subtle Upgrades
I’m a firm believer that entry-level models often show the true essence of a brand. It’s the first point of contact for many buyers and, therefore, is a good representation of the design elements, quality, and creativity that define a company’s offerings. This is no different for NOMOS Glashütte’s Club model. The German brand has redesigned the watch in its original colorway, which has been out of production since 2017, with a revamped appearance, while keeping all the beloved elements of the reference intact. The watch itself keeps much of the distinguishing features that have made the Club a classic for those looking for an entree into NOMOS. The open space on the silver-plated dial is complemented by dark gray numerals (a shade darker than its previous iteration) and a broader, longer set of hands. The numerals are also accented with lumed outlines, making it easy to read throughout the day and well into the night. The final touch of the dial is the minute track, which is positioned well into the boundaries of the numerals, making the dial feel that much more open and spacious. It is this combination of upgrades: a brighter dial, larger hands, and lumed numerals, which have made small – yet significant – upgrades to the Club model and has pushed the brand into a new audience set who has been vying to enter into the luxury watch market and just needed the right invitation to do so. This is a handsome watch at just 36mm, making it a great addition to anyone...
Quill & Pad
Tudor Pelagos FXD: Better than the Black Bay?
While considering his 2022 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève predictions, Joshua Munchow rediscovered the Tudor Pelagos, specifically the Pelagos FXD, a very practical and attractive watch. And it has caused him to reevaluate his position on Tudor and thinks that this one would look pretty darn good on his wrist.
Worn & Wound
Beaubleu Launches the Ecce, the French Brand’s First Permanent Collection
Beaubleu is a French brand that we’ve covered a handful of times since their debut in 2017, and we certainly have a soft spot for their quirky and contemporary design language. The basic idea is rather simple, at least on paper: instead of traditional hands, Beaubleu uses circular rings of different sizes to tell the time. As they move around the dial, it creates a very different impression than what you’d see on a normal watch, and causes some reflection as to why traditional handsets, with their inherent precision, are so commonplace to begin with. Like Alain Silberstein’s designs, Beaubleu’s watches remind us that a watch can be anything, and that shape is a critical element in how we relate to watches both practically and emotionally. Beaubleu, to this point, has also done a fantastic job of using color to drive these ideas home. With their new Ecce line of watches, the brand’s first permanent collection, Beaubleu has further refined their aesthetic, adding a bracelet for the first time, and making subtle changes to their dials and cases that allow everything to work together a bit more harmoniously. The core of the design, of course, is unchanged. We still get the unique circular hands in the three models that launch the Ecce collection, with a large running seconds circle, a small hours circle, and a medium sized minutes circle in between. The 39mm cases have sculpted flanks and prominent, brushed circular bezel that complements the hands as well the circ...
Worn & Wound
Seiko Recreates the Classic Reference 6117 with the New Prospex Land Mechanical GMT
Seiko made some big news this morning, with the long rumored announcement of a new version of their classic 6117 Navigator Timer. That vintage reference is critically important for many Seiko collectors, an early GMT from 1968 in the same familiar design language of many classic Seiko sports watches. With new GMT calibers now in production, many enthusiasts expected the timing was right for a modern rendition of the 6117, and today they got their wish in the form of the SPB411, the Seiko Prospex Land Mechanical GMT Limited Edition. This new reference is a fairly faithful rendition of the classic watch from the 60s, with modern components and design choices only where they’re most appropriate, and plenty of restraint everywhere else (no Prospex logo on the dial!). For GMT fans and Seiko collectors, the SPB411 is a significant new release. All the hallmarks of the 6117 would appear to be present in the SPB411. Namely, the distinctive cushion case, the rotating 24 hour bezel, and a slate gray dial. The “Navigator Timer” wordmark no longer appears on the dial, but otherwise it’s a solid recreation, with rectangular hour markers and thin, block hands carried over to the new release, as well as a short red arrow GMT hand. That gray dial has a sunray finish, and we get a date window at 3:00 with a contrasting white background. Most importantly for fans of the original, the case size has remained consistent. The SPB411 comes in at 38.5mm in diameter, just about half a mi...