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Quill & Pad
Welcome to Quill & Pad’s predictions for the 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève Ladies category in which the team picks favorites and explains why. Our panel isn't unanimous, but does have a clear favorite in this category. Read on to find out which watch should succeed here!
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: While the Pilot might be IWC’s hero of the hour, the equally large but more classically inspired Portugieser is an equally important line. Felix finds out why … There’s a good reason the Portugieser collection is one of IWC’s most popular (in Australia at least). It’s a big, commanding watch that nevertheless possesses … ContinuedThe post Explaining a legend – the history of the IWC Portugieser appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
It's not often I come across someone with this much width of knowledge about watches ... that isn't a watchmaker.
SJX Watches
Apple’s introduction of its latest watch includes the Apple Watch Hermès Series 5, essentially the smartwatch plus an Hermes leather strap and watch faces exclusive to the Hermes edition. Amongst other incremental improvements, the new Apple Watch has an “always-on” face that dims when you turn away, instead of going dark as on the previous generation of the watch – and it’s achieved without comprising the 18-hour battery life. And the standard Series 5 is also available in a variety of case materials, including the usual steel or aluminium, as well as ceramic for the more upscale versions. For the first time, brushed titanium is also a case option. The Single Tour strap with the Della Cavalleria motif on the lower half of the strap The luxury of Apple Watch Hermès Series 5, on the other hand, is dictated only in two case styles: Space Black and polished steel, each in either 40mm or 44mm sizes. The 40mm cases are available either with a standard length, “Single Tour” strap, or an extra-long “Double Tour” strap. Both styles of straps are a combination of colours – a solid shade and a printed motif taken from the Hermes “Della Cavalleria” scarf. Double Tour The Space Black is actually a steel with a black coating, and it’s matched with a sleek, all-black dial and matte black strap for a sleek look that is very much unlike the usual smartwatch. Price and availability The Apple Watch Hermès Series 5 with Single Tour strap is priced at ...
Hodinkee
Titanium, ceramic, and an always-on display!
SJX Watches
The latest anniversary edition for Singapore’s largest watch retailer has just dropped: the Monaco “The Hour Glass” is derived from the Monaco Calibre 11 launched at Baselworld 2015. But it combines the style of the 1970s with a modern twist, mixing a high-contrast, all-black case paired with a beige dial and red accents. Think of it as a modern take on the desirable Monaco “Dark Lord”. Unapologetically square Designed by Jack Heuer and named after the Formula 1 race on the principality, the Monaco was powered by the one of the first automatic chronograph movements, the Chronomatic cal. 11. But its true claim to fame is Steve McQueen, who wore one in Le Mans, making the original Monaco ref. 1133B with its distinctive blue dial something of an icon. Steven McQueen in Le Mans More crucially, the Monaco was the first water-resistant square watch when it was launched on March 3, 1969. This was achieved with the use of a one-piece inner case – essentially a square capsule containing the movement and dial – secured to the outer case with a notched system that created a tension seal. It was produced by Ervin Piquerez, a case maker best known for its “Super Compressor” dive watch cases, which received a patent for its landmark, square invention. The unusual Monaco case as illustrated by a “Dark Lord” – outer case in black PVD, and inner case in brushed steel And inside the case sat the Chronomatic cal. 11, a movement that was one of three ...
Revolution
TAG Heuer adds to the list of watches created to celebrate the 40th anniversary of renowned Singapore retailer with the Monaco Calibre 11 The Hour Glass Edition.
Time+Tide
A few months ago we introduced you to the first in a series of limited edition watches made to celebrate The Hour Glass’s 40th anniversary. Well, we’ve just had a look at the latest in the series, which takes the form of a TAG Heuer Monaco. Now, if this were any other watch it would … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hour Glass celebrates its 40th with an awesome TAG Heuer Monaco LE appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Produced in the 1980s, the Raketa Kopernik was a nod to the Soviet Union’s space exploration, a Soviet Moon watch of sorts. The hour hand took the form of a golden disc, representing the Sun, while the minute hand was the Moon, taking the form of a large ring. Once an hour the Sun and Moon hands would overlap for an eclipse on the wrist. Named after Nicolaus Copernicus, the Kopernik was imaginatively designed but a typical Soviet-era timepiece in terms of quality. Now Raketa has recreated the original design as the Copernicus wristwatch, which is still made in Russia but boasting upgraded fit and finish. The rocket factory Raketa is Russian for “rocket”, and it is a brand of the Petrodvorets Watch Factory in St Petersburg. Founded in 1721 as a stoneware manufacturer, the factory has produced watches since the second world war. Now run by its owners – an Englishman and a Frenchman – Raketa produces has a vertically integrated factory as well as an online store. The Raketa Copernicus has an abstract dial with the Sun and Moon hands against an off-centred sphere that represents the Earth. And it has a graduated colour that goes from dark blue to black, evoking the darkness of outer space. The Copernicus has a steel case – either black-coated or polished – that’s 40.5mm in diameter and a thick 12mm high. It’s fitted with a sapphire crystal on the front and mineral glass on the back. Inside is the cal. 2615 automatic movement that is derived from a Sovie...
Quill & Pad
2008 is a truly brilliant champagne vintage that will age for many years, and the Dom Pérignon is one of the very best of them all, if not the star. And it is also perhaps the greatest young Dom Pérignon we have seen. Ken Gargett rates it 98/100 with potential to go even higher.
Hodinkee
Apple, Fitbit, and Samsung have joined Rolex and Patek Philippe as America's five best-selling watch brands.
Revolution
As Nadal celebrates his 19th Grand Slam win, we look back at all the althetes who changed their game by wearing Richard Mille watches in competition.
Revolution
On this episode of the Revolution Watch Podcast, we speak to Maximilian Büsser, the founder and creative genius behind MB&F;.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: The Marine is Breguet’s star of the show at the moment, with a profusion of new models in the house - including some chic titanium options - but we can’t help but have a soft spot for this elegant beast, the Breguet Marine 5817 Big Date. What a looker … We’re willing to … ContinuedThe post A different kind of luxury sports watch – the Breguet Marine 5817 Big Date appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: We, along with the rest of the world, have been on a pretty heavy space-nostalgia trip of late. A trip that naturally led us back to Andrew’s 2015 trip with Omega, to the Space Centre in Houston, a place that was, in many ways, ground zero for the mythos that surrounds the Speedy. … ContinuedThe post That time we celebrated the Omega Speedmaster in Houston, Texas appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Breguet is one brand that does "remakes" beautifully, and the recent release of the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395 is clear evidence. The watch is incredible while feeling entirely classic and well within the boundaries of what is considered typical for Breguet. And yet it also feels like a departure into something a bit new that makes you take another look at the brand.
Time+Tide
As a category, highly paid athletes are known for the occasional BIG flex. Bespoke cars, planes and all the rest are de rigueur for these guys. And, of course, the wristwatch, being both highly visible and highly valuable, is a great example of this. Now, wearing those factory diamonds on your downtime is one thing, … ContinuedThe post WATCHSPOTTING: NFL star Odell Beckham gives a masterclass on flexing wearing Richard Mille in his debut match with the Cleveland Browns appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
With one watch unveiled each month since the start of the year, the A. Lange & Söhne “25th Anniversary” series is coming to a completion. The ninth watch has just been announced – the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase. Of the 10 piece anniversary set, this is arguably the most esoteric and least known Lange 1, being an elegantly conceived complication inside a case that was originally devised as a smaller men’s watch, but is now a ladies’ watch. Measuring a compact 36.8mm in width, the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase was first unveiled in 2009 – seven years after the launch of the full-size, 38.5mm Lange 1 Moon Phase. Subsequently in 2017, it evolved to incorporate a new caliber based on the second-generation Lange 1 movement. Though the original Little Lange 1 was introduced as a watch for men in the late 1990s, the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase was a ladies’ watch from the get-go and decorated as such, with mother-of-pearl dials, diamond bezels and most recently a guilloche dial. But with the subdued anniversary colours of blue and silver, the latest Little Lange 1 Moon Phase is the first instance where it could be for men wanting a smaller watch. The dial of the watch is solid silver, with blued steel hands and printed blue markings. As with the Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase “25thAnniversary” unveiled earlier in the year, the white-gold lunar disc in the seconds sub-dial is hand-engraved with stars that vary in size and shape, creating a detailed depiction of the ni...
Revolution
Oris Big Crown ProPilot X is a stunner several years in the works, the fruition of broad modernisation across the company in terms of technology and design.
Time+Tide
Over the last few years the Laureato line has emerged as Girard-Perregaux’s valiant hero - a sporty steel warrior well equipped to win wrists across the world. Earlier this year, at SIHH in Geneva, Girard-Perregaux unleashed their latest expression of the Laureato – the evolved Laureato Absolute. This darkly clad watch was offered in a … ContinuedThe post Absolute power – the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Barolo Chinato is basically a spiced wine made from a base of Barolo. But it is so much more than a usual spiced wine (and in no way to be compared with the sangria or mulled wine that Ken Gargett calls "abominations"). Find out exactly what Ken thinks is so special about Barale Fratelli's Barolo Chinato right here.
Deployant
You are invited! Vacheron Constantin at MBS to view and experience the incredible heritage pieces from Les Collectionneurs and the Nickname Collection..
Hodinkee
The executive director of the Willard House and Clock Museum will discuss clock making in 18th century America.
SJX Watches
Originally available in platinum and then rose gold, the Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 is a well regarded vintage remake, being well executed and faithful to the original. It’s modelled on the ref. 6087 of the 1950s, which was characterised by pointy, horn-shaped lugs, hence the model name; cornes de vache translates as cow horns. Now it is available in stainless steel, making the Cornes de Vache the second Historiques model to be offered in the metal, after the Historiques 1942 and 1948 triple calendars. The steel case naturally makes it far more accessible, with a retail price that’s a third less than the same in platinum. Material aside, the specs of the new model are identical to the earlier precious metal versions. The case is 38.5mm in diameter, and contains the cal. 1142 movement. Now made in-house by Vacheron Constantin, the cal. 1142 is derived from the Lemania 2310. Vacheron Constantin has upgraded the movement in several ways, most notably with a free-sprung balance wheel. The dial is a pale grey with a fine “velvet” finish and red accents on the elapsed seconds track. All of the applied hour markers are 18k white gold, as are the hands. Notably, this is not the first Cornes de Vache in steel. In 2017 Vacheron Constantin produced a small run of 36 watches – with a steel case and dark grey dial – for American watch blog Hodinkee. Key facts and price Diameter: 38.5mm Height: 10.9mm Material: Stainless steel Water resist...
Time+Tide
Generally speaking, watch collectors fear three things: brick walls, unforeseen service costs, and the vagaries of international shipping. I’m not sure about points one and two, but Kelvin has certainly come up against the whims of global logistics conglomerates. But, before you get too stressed out, it’s OK – he won! Or got very lucky, … ContinuedThe post “Somebody at the logistics company had stolen my watch” – or how Kelvin was reunited with his Blancpain appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
One of the malaises sweeping the Swiss watch industry is, in my oh-so-humble opinion, that of homogeneity. From a distance, the world from the wrist down looks remarkably similar: round, black-dialled steel sports cases in a style that sits somewhere on a spectrum between vaguely retro to full-blown reissue. I’m well aware that this isn’t … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Louis Vuitton Tambour All Black Chronograph 46 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Memo is a relatively new fragrance house founded in 2007 by John and Clara Molloy. Its latest scent, Luxor Oud, has changed Martin Green's perceptions of agarwood and here he shares why.
SJX Watches
The Phillips Perpetual boutique in London officially opens this week with 40 watches encompassing all important genres of watch collecting, from a Rolex Daytona “John Player Special” to a Patek Philippe Nautilus “Jumbo” ref. 3700 (from the collection of Jean-Claude Biver no less). But one of the flagship offerings is an important example of independent watchmaking – a Roger W. Smith Series 2 “Edition 2” that’s “No. 1”. It is very much a quintessential, early Roger W. Smith creation with the hallmark elements of his watchmaking. But the watch is also historically interesting, being an example of the road not taken for Mr Smith. The forgotten “Edition” This watch illuminates an intriguing bit of early Roger W. Smith history. Shortly after Mr Smith delivered the first batch of Series 2 watches in late 2007, he decided to create the “Edition” concept. According to Mr Smith, the idea was to produce Series 2 as a limited edition of 90 watches in total, with 30 watches in each colour of gold. All Edition watches had 38mm cases and solid silver dials; the Edition 1 was in yellow gold, Edition 2 in rose, and Edition 3 in white gold. At the same time, Mr Smith also offered custom versions of the Series 2, which were also available in a platinum case. But as it turned out, most clients wanted a custom watch, rather than an Edition example. So Mr Smith discreetly abandoned Edition not long after, and only a five of each Edition were made. This is on...
Hodinkee
For the first time, Spring Drive powers Presage watches.
SJX Watches
One can understand the opacity of the first published analysis of John Harrison’s first sea watch, colloquially known as H4 and the forerunner of the marine chronometer, in The Principles of Mr Harrison’s Time-keeper. Edited by the British Astronomer Royal Nevil Maskelyne, it was published by the British government in 1767; and hereafter referred to as Principles. Principles was both incomplete of enough information to allow the duplication of the watch, which Harrison (1693-1776) started in 1755 and finished in 1759, and contained somewhat incoherent description that only makes sense a posteriori after examination of the watch. ‘Principles of Mr. Harrison’s Time-keeper’ Amazingly, it was one hundred years later the next review took place. I can echo Harrison M. Frodsham’s comments in his review in Horological Journal of May 1878 when he said, “Former explanations taken from Harrison’s description are necessarily unsatisfactory, as his was very obscure, probably purposely so.” Although this may be dismissed as 19th Century gossip by some scholars, this may have arisen in part to protect any military advantage, given the importance of H4 to maritime navigation. Considering H4’s historical performance, it is odd that the otherwise comprehensive A Treatise on Modern Horology in Theory and Practice (2ndedition) by Claudius Saunier, published in 1887, barely mentions Harrison and certainly not H4’s technical content. Perhaps it was because it was so quic...
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