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Review: Hermès Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel Titanium SJX Watches
Hermes vertical integration Sep 8, 2023

Review: Hermès Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel Titanium

Defined by its custom-design typography and restrained styling, the Slim d’Hermès is Hermès’ signature gentlemen’s watch. Though the time-only model is the best known, the collection also includes complications, including the recently face-lifted Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel in titanium. Originally available only in precious metals, the perpetual calendar now has a titanium case – but with precious metal accents – along with a gently redesigned dial. While the changes to the dial are modest, they add a degree of offbeat style that is characteristic of Hermès. The second time zone display at six o’clock with its seemingly jumbled numerals Key takeaways Elegant and restrained in both design and feel, the watch is simple on its face but made interesting with quirky details like the jumbled second time zone display. The design stands out from comparable perpetual calendars without being excessive. The case is slim and proportioned just right, while the frosted finish contrasts well with the polished gold components. The Vaucher-derived movement is high quality in both construction and finish, albeit in an industrial style, though the “H” monogram decor is not for everyone, while the second time zone function has limited utility. Much of the qualities of the watch reflect Hermes’ vertical integration of the production process, which includes dial and case making. Initial thoughts At a glance the Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel looks lik...

Maurice Lacroix Aikon Skeleton Urban Tribe Time+Tide
Maurice Lacroix Aikon Skeleton Urban Tribe Sep 6, 2023

Maurice Lacroix Aikon Skeleton Urban Tribe

The Maurice Lacroix Aikon Skeleton Urban Tribe introduces even more complexity and depth At 39mm in diameter, it’s a comfortable fit for such a visually-loud watch The skeletonised dial artfully shows off the ML115S movement, based on a Sellita SW200 Maurice Lacroix aren’t afraid to get experimental, and the Urban Tribe is a key example … ContinuedThe post Maurice Lacroix Aikon Skeleton Urban Tribe appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Titanium BMG SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Sep 5, 2023

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Titanium BMG

Audemars Piguet has unveiled a fresh rendition of the famed Royal Oak “Jumbo” with the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Titanium BMG ref. 16202XT. Featuring a smoked burgundy dial, this latest version is set apart by its materials – a titanium case complemented by a bulk metallic glass (BMG) bezel – that are the same as those of the unique ref. 15202XT created for Only Watch 2021.  Initial thoughts While the classical steel “Jumbo” gets most of the attention, the most interesting version of the ref. 16202 in my view is the platinum model, mainly due to the smoked green dial. The platinum model has an appealing radial brushed finish on the dial that was exclusive to that variant, making it quite different from the usual tapisserie guilloche. It’s good to see the same dial finish on another model, and this time with an even more striking burgundy red dial. What sets the new “Jumbo” apart are the case materials: titanium and BMG. Though the materials are identical to the Only Watch edition, the finishing is different. The Only Watch edition was mostly sandblasted. This, on the other hand, has the conventional brushed finish of the Royal Oak. And of course the movements differ between the ref. 15202 and ref. 16202. Still, this remains a “Jumbo” is most respects – size, shape, and style. Yet, with its smoked dial and unusual case material, it becomes an interesting new watch. Whilst it will become part of the permanent collection, it will presumably be ...

Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II (RRCC II): Despite Looking Similar to its Predecessor, Everything is New Quill & Pad
Rexhep Rexhepi Sep 3, 2023

Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain II (RRCC II): Despite Looking Similar to its Predecessor, Everything is New

The classic design of the Akrivia RRCC II’s dial has roots in founder Rexhep Rexhepi’s vision of high-quality nineteenth-century pocket watch dials adorned with high-fire enamel and combined with a modern twist based on “sector” dials of the 1930s and '40s. But there's much more to this brand-new watch than that as Elizabeth Doerr explains.

The Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto 40 Série Atelier V pays tribute to a racing icon Time+Tide
Laurent Ferrier Sep 2, 2023

The Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto 40 Série Atelier V pays tribute to a racing icon

The Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto 40 harkens back to the founder’s racing pedigree The green dial Is based on the Porsche 935 he helped to place third in Le Mans 1979 Even as a luxury watch, its 41.5mm titanium case is comfortable, and water-resistant to 120m There are a lot of brands who claim that … ContinuedThe post The Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto 40 Série Atelier V pays tribute to a racing icon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Alpina Alpiner Heritage Carrée Automatic 140 Years brings back classic contours in a modern package Time+Tide
Alpina Alpiner Heritage Carrée Automatic Aug 31, 2023

The Alpina Alpiner Heritage Carrée Automatic 140 Years brings back classic contours in a modern package

For Geneva Watch Days 2023, Alpina has released two regular -production tribute versions of the tank-style Alpiner The Alpiner Heritage Carrée Automatic 140 Years offers vintage looks with modern appointments Two dial variants are available: two-tone silver (US and international), and black (international only) For Geneva Watch Days, Alpina is looking back with the release … ContinuedThe post The Alpina Alpiner Heritage Carrée Automatic 140 Years brings back classic contours in a modern package appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

H. Moser and MB&F; Team Up for the Streamliner Pandamonium SJX Watches
H. Moser Aug 31, 2023

H. Moser and MB&F; Team Up for the Streamliner Pandamonium

For their joint contribution to this November’s Only Watch charity auction, H. Moser & Cie and MB&F; have released the Streamliner Pandamonium. Made up of a Moser Streamliner case, fume dial, and minute repeating movement, the Pandamonium gets the MB&F; exposed, oversized balance wheel construction along with a panda DJ miniature sculpture.  Initial thoughts  These two brands are not strangers to each other, having collaborated many times before, this joint effort however, seems to be much more Moser than MB&F;, given this is essentially a Streamliner with a hint of MB&F;. Though it is an appealing watch if you like the Streamliner design, I expected the whole to be greater than the sum of the parts with such creative companies combining their powers. While the panda figure looms large in the marketing for this watch, in reality, it is easy to miss on the dial since it just under the flying balance wheel. MB&F; has employed a tiny sculpture as a power reserve indicator in the past, but here the panda is no more than a nice piece of miniature art. It would have been great if there was more of a mechanical aspect to this character, which would have transformed it into a modern take on old-school automaton repeaters – which is not too much of a stretch given the price tag. This watch is undoubtedly whimsical, but it has credible horological backing. The estimate of CHF300,000-400,000 is entirely expected for a minute repeater, and will likely be surpassed, albeit not by mult...

Hands-On: The Eucalyptus Green Ressence Type 3 EE Worn & Wound
Ressence Type 3 EE Aug 30, 2023

Hands-On: The Eucalyptus Green Ressence Type 3 EE

The Ressence Type 3 collection welcomes a new member this week with the introduction of the serene Type 3 EE. The brand continues to work in subtle and interesting green hues, following up on the sage Type 8S (reviewed here) with this rich eucalyptus green dial. It’s a slightly unconventional execution within the more dramatic Type 3 collection, which we’ve only seen rendered in black and soft white up to this point. In person, the green is a perfect companion to the Type 3’s primary accent colors and rotating dial sets. Given the case it’s set within, that green is given an oil filled canvas for maximum impact.  The Type 3 is one of two oil filled Ressence watches, along with the “world-proof” dive watch, the Type 5. The effect is remarkable in person, and one that I’ve always found core to the Ressence experience. The Type 3 EE features the eucalyptus green on both the font and back panel of the watch (hence the EE), and comes through brilliantly, as though it were painted directly on the crystal, thanks to the oil filled dial. The color is subtle but rich, somehow, and the colors used for the various displays have been desaturated enough to hit the same value scale as the green itself, so as not to create a distracting level of contrast. The Type 3 is on the maximalist side of Ressence, boasting the oil temperature gauge, a dial for the day of the week, and the date itself, on top of the hours, minutes, and seconds, of course. It all leads to a rather dra...

The new HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires is a high complication fit for Thanos Time+Tide
HYT Aug 30, 2023

The new HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires is a high complication fit for Thanos

The HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires is a limited edition of 8 pieces Its tourbillon calibre, with a spiral balance inclined at 30 degrees, was developed with master watchmaker Eric Coudray Framing the tourbillon, distinctly coloured gems – fuchsia, blue-grey and yellow – rotate at different speeds around the dial I am rather comfortable in … ContinuedThe post The new HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires is a high complication fit for Thanos appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breguet Makes Itself Heard with the Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes SJX Watches
Breguet Makes Itself Heard Aug 30, 2023

Breguet Makes Itself Heard with the Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes

The unveiling of a new minute repeater by a maker with Breguet’s pedigree should not be taken lightly. The brand has just unveiled the Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes, only the third repeating wristwatch in its catalogue after the Classique 5447 and the heavily jewelled Classique 7639. But with the new 7637, Breguet is focusing on minimalist elegance with a grand feu enamel dial in the most classical of styles. Initial thoughts Leaf through Breguet’s catalogue and it is clear that the Classique collection is the best testament to the heritage left behind by arguably the greatest watchmaker in history. The Classique 7637 Répétion Minutes exemplifies the masterfully executed timepieces that continue this legacy. All the main features of what makes this a Breguet are present to be appreciated by a discerning eye. The enamel dial with Breguet numerals and a “secret” signature, masterfully executed Breguet hands, a fluted case band – all reminders of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s legacy.  Notably, the movement inside is a legacy movement of sorts as well. The cal. 567.2 inside is descended from a Lemania movement conceived in the 1990s, explaining its classical architecture that suits the style of the watch. But like all Breguet movements, it has been upgraded, most interestingly with solid-gold gongs. At 42 mm, the rose gold case exceeds the classical dimensions that most makers abide by today, but the case has a 12.25 mm height that maintains elegant proportions...

Seiko Makes It Hard To Choose Favorites With Their New Addition of Seiko 5 GMTs Worn & Wound
Seiko Makes It Hard Aug 29, 2023

Seiko Makes It Hard To Choose Favorites With Their New Addition of Seiko 5 GMTs

A few months back, Seiko made a big splash in the watch scene with their sub-$500 GMT watch. With their own GMT movement inside and a design based on the iconic SKX case, they had an instant hit on their hands. We’re happy to offer their two latest dial colors: a dark charcoal grey and a bright and cheerful yellow. Read on to find out more about these two new Seikos that just landed at the Windup Watch Shop. A few months back, Seiko made a big splash in the watch scene with their sub-$500 GMT watch. With their own GMT movement inside and a design based on the iconic SKX case, they had an instant hit on their hands. We’re happy to offer their two latest dial colors: a dark charcoal grey and a bright and cheerful yellow. Read on to find out more about these two new Seikos that just landed at the Windup Watch Shop. The post Seiko Makes It Hard To Choose Favorites With Their New Addition of Seiko 5 GMTs appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Louis Erard Debuts an Art Deco Collaboration SJX Watches
Louis Erard Debuts Aug 25, 2023

Louis Erard Debuts an Art Deco Collaboration

Louis Erard gained a cult following collaborations with partners ranging from independent watchmakers to industrial designers. Now, the brand has teamed up with Switzerland-based watch influencer Amr Sindi, better known by his Instagram handle The Horophile. Their project, the Le Petite Seconde Metropolis, draws direct inspiration from Art Deco with its clean, distinctive dial. Initial thoughts Following their recent collaboration at Raketa, it comes as no surprise that Louis Erard chief Manuel Emch (who’s also helping run Raketa) and Mr Sindi have once again united their creative forces. While deviating from the contemporary design accented by Mr Sindi’s trademark purple that characterised his past creations, the trio of timepieces represent a unique interpretation of 1920s style.  The watches evoke the era without being remakes of 1920s watches. They are distinctive yet unbranded, enabling the design to be conveyed clearly. Aside from the Art Deco hour numerals, there is absolutely no text on the dial whatsoever. In my view, this exemplifies how watch brands should design a retro watch, rather than simply generating a remake based on archives. While the dial is new, the rest of the watch is identical to the regular production model. That means a relatively thick case, which is the only major shortcoming of the design. The Le Petite Seconde Metropolis is priced at US$2,900, which is roughly in the same price range as the standard version of the model. Although the pr...

Timex Pushes Boundaries with Giorgio Galli S2 Worn & Wound
Timex Pushes Boundaries Aug 24, 2023

Timex Pushes Boundaries with Giorgio Galli S2

Timex takes their relationship with Giorgio Galli a step further with a new iteration of the series called, naturally, the GGS2. The new watch retains much of the drama of the S1 (which our Ed Jelley reviewed here), but ramps up the minimal nature of the design language with a near sterile black dial set within one of the most unique cases you’re likely to find under $1,000. As with all of the Timex Giorgio Galli watches, there’s plenty to appreciate in the small details, and with even fewer components brought to the table here, those details matter all the more. The S2 is chic on the exterior, and this time, gains a bit of Swiss cache on the inside.  The S2 sets the stage for a new generation of Giorgio Galli watches from Timex, revealed in its most elemental form here that is easy to imagine spawning additional variations. The all black dial set under a sapphire crystal is framed by a single applied ring that hosts a notch for each hour of the day. It’s a stark scene but everything that’s there makes a big impact. The structure of that ring is subtle, but it’s mirrored in the hand-set in both design and tone. Only the word Timex appears at the top of the dial, while the Giorgio Galli and S2 Automatic labels are relegated to the bottom of that ring ring structure. While the dial has certainly evolved, the case retains its signature injection-molded skeleton execution with titanium inserts for the movement and caseback. It’s a bit exotic feeling and sets this ...

Audemars Piguet Teams Up with Designer Matthew Williams SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Teams Up Aug 24, 2023

Audemars Piguet Teams Up with Designer Matthew Williams

Four new Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore models have been announced, along with one unique piece that make up this latest collaboration. With a mixture of yellow gold, white gold and two-tone, all pieces are co-branded with Audemars Piguet and 1017 ALYX 9SM, Matthew Williams’ own brand, on the dial and rotor. Initial thoughts It’s nice to see collaborations like this taking place. When someone with the fashion and design pedigree of Matthew Williams enters the watch space, it is always worth taking note, as they are bound to bring a fresh and unique perspective. However, here it would seem he has just taken the designs he previously made with MAD Paris and asked Audemars Piguet to make them instead. The only visual difference being that the original ones had circular brushed dials, whereas these are vertically brushed. While the variety of case size and metal is appreciated, it is clear that these designs are not original with perhaps the only real difference being that the date window has been removed from the standard Royal Oak. Having the same aesthetic treatment applied across the time-only Royal Oak, chronograph Royal Oak and Offshore is nice to see, making this a cohesive collection. And the unique piece carries pleasing contrasts with the two-tone case and dark, PVD-coated dial giving a look that seems fitting for the streetwear-savvy Williams. There has been no communication on the price of these pieces, nor how many are set to be produced. All we can be sure ...

The Longines Master Collection Small Seconds is what happens when a brand listens to enthusiasts Time+Tide
Longines Master Collection Small Seconds Aug 23, 2023

The Longines Master Collection Small Seconds is what happens when a brand listens to enthusiasts

Longines unveils an engraved trio with three different dial colours in three different finishes The watches are downsized from 40mm to 38.5mm, in a move destined to be popular among enthusiasts An azurage-finish petite seconde is courtesy of the silicon hairspring-equipped L893.5 How often do you see a brand new release that immediately captures you? … ContinuedThe post The Longines Master Collection Small Seconds is what happens when a brand listens to enthusiasts appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Zenith DEFY 21 Chroma II is another high-tech taste of the rainbow Time+Tide
Zenith DEFY 21 Chroma II Aug 22, 2023

The Zenith DEFY 21 Chroma II is another high-tech taste of the rainbow

Zenith’s colourful limited edition from last year has returned, this time in black ceramic too The white variant now features a subtly different colour gradation An El Primero movement and openworked dial provides plenty of visual drama There’s just something undeniably fun and alluring about a rainbow watch. There’s a sort of horseshoe effect with … ContinuedThe post The Zenith DEFY 21 Chroma II is another high-tech taste of the rainbow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

New: Franck Muller CURVEX™ CX  Deployant
Franck Muller Aug 19, 2023

New: Franck Muller CURVEX™ CX 

Franck Muller With its perfectly curved case and unique contours, the Cintrée Curvex™ is the brand's most distinctive silhouette. The unique and beautiful design of the numerals is also what makes the Cintrée Curvex immediately recognisable. Today, we present a redesigned case called the Curvex CX where the sapphire crystal extends all the way to the bracelet, giving much greater visibility to the dial. Furthermore, the bezel which is separate from the case, allows beautiful two-tone treatments.

Brew Introduces the first Mechanical Metric, a Limited Edition of 500 Pieces Worn & Wound
Seiko Aug 16, 2023

Brew Introduces the first Mechanical Metric, a Limited Edition of 500 Pieces

Brew has been on a hot streak with their Metric ever since the first examples were shown back in the summer of 2021. In the time since, brand owner and designer Jonathan Ferrer has iterated on the basic Metric principles to great effect, adding new dial colors as well as gold and black PVD coated cases that transform the 1970s sport watch in terms of its character and overall presentation. But until now, the Metric had always been built on the same Meca-quartz platform, with a VK68 hybrid movement built by Seiko that allows for quartz timekeeping and a mechanical chronograph operation. Today, Brew unveils the Metric Automatic, the first Metric powered by a mechanical movement, and the first non-chronograph in the line.  A lot of the design cues here will feel very familiar to Metric owners and longtime Brew fans. The 1970s vibes of the original Metric (as well as watches like the Retrograph and Retromatic) really come primarily from the case, which in the case of the Metric resembles a rounded square, with a bracelet that appears to be integrated to the case. The size is also key – the Metric Automatic comes in at the same svelte dimensions as its Meca-quartz counterpart, with a diameter of 36mm, a lug to lug span of 41.5mm, and a case height of just 10.75mm. It’s a refreshingly compact design, and really does feel like a vintage watch on the wrist.  For this first mechanical Metric, we get a simple black dial with chunky hour markers and Arabic numerals counting off...

The Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date “Golden Bay” and “Ocean Breeze” limited editions are a retro holiday from the ordinary Time+Tide
Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date Aug 13, 2023

The Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date “Golden Bay” and “Ocean Breeze” limited editions are a retro holiday from the ordinary

Glashütte Original is back with two new limited edition variants of their retro-inspired Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date The rounded-square TV case recalls the freewheeling fashion aesthetic that dominated the 1970s Two matte lacquered dial choices are available, a pale ochre and a muted grey-blue The latest offerings from Glashütte Original conjure up nostalgia-fuelled visions of … ContinuedThe post The Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date “Golden Bay” and “Ocean Breeze” limited editions are a retro holiday from the ordinary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close with Nomos × Revolution Tangente neomatik 41 Update ‘Resilience’ Revolution
Nomos × Revolution Tangente neomatik Aug 11, 2023

Up Close with Nomos × Revolution Tangente neomatik 41 Update ‘Resilience’

Get up close with our newest limited edition in collaboration with NOMOS Glashütte, the Nomos × Revolution Tangente neomatik 41 Update ‘Resilience,’ featuring the Fibonacci sequence, a symbol of growth and resilience, subtly integrated into its minute track. For a sleek, pared-back aesthetic, it has a midnight blue dial with white indexes and hands and […]

Does the new Longines HydroConquest GMT signal a collection redesign? Time+Tide
Longines HydroConquest GMT signal Aug 10, 2023

Does the new Longines HydroConquest GMT signal a collection redesign?

The Longines HydroConquest GMT departs from the cult-classic look for a more familiar case shape. The green and brown dial options are especially sumptuous, with gold details and colour-matched date wheels. The new GMT design may be divisive among HydroConquest fans, but will certainly attract a wider audience. Longines are one of the biggest players … ContinuedThe post Does the new Longines HydroConquest GMT signal a collection redesign? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

King Seiko Turns to the Geometry of the Chrysanthemum SJX Watches
Grand Seiko pays homage Aug 10, 2023

King Seiko Turns to the Geometry of the Chrysanthemum

Seiko has unveiled a limited-edition iteration of its vintage-inspired timepiece, the King Seiko. The King Seiko SJE095 features a textured dial adorned with a uniquely Japanese motif-a geometric pattern known as kiku tsunagi-mon inspired by the chrysanthemum flower. Save for the patterned dial, the limited edition maintains the compact case profile found in the King Seiko SJE089 and SJE091 was earlier this year.  Initial thoughts While the latest King Seiko models have a notably streamlined case, the stylistic resemblance to the original from 1965 bordered on being a vintage remake. Fortunately, Seiko has decided to create a standout iteration (albeit a limited edition) that, as is often the case with Seiko and Grand Seiko, pays homage to Japanese culture in the dial decoration. The highlight is the intricate geometric pattern on the dial. Besides evoking traditional Japanese cut-glassware, the engraving possesses a degree of elegance, while upholding a sense of balance in the dial. The balance could have been improved if the date window were absent, allowing the engraving to run uninterrupted across the dial.  This limited edition carries a price of US$3,400, just US$100 more than the standard King Seiko. The small difference makes this a no-brainer over the regular production model, though it can be argued this is somewhat pricey in absolute terms for a mid-range Seiko model. Rooted in tradition This limited edition draws substantial inspiration from the chrysanthe...