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Monochrome
Renowned for its contemporary and minimalist designs, Ming, the indie watch brand founded by Malaysian photographer Ming Thein in 2017, has gone from strength to strength. Design is king at Ming, and a common design thread runs through all the collections, ranging from time-only to sophisticated chronographs and from world timers to dive watches. Following […]
Time+Tide
The perfect vintage-inspired French chronograph for a vintage-inspired French road race, this Scalegraph hits all the right notes.The post The Baltic Scalegraph x Tour Auto packages racing blues in a new water-resistant case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Union Glashütte, now part of Swatch Group, marks its birth in 1893 when Johannes Dürrstein founded the Uhrenfabrik Union in the heart of Germany’s watchmaking region. Balancing vintage and modern elements with appealing designs and a reasonable price-to-quality ratio, nowadays the brand receives proper attention with releases like last year´s Noramis Chronograph Sport with its […]
Time+Tide
Nothing says vintage like the warm flash of pink in the dials of yesteryear, but here are some great modern salmon dials worth considering.The post The 9 best salmon dial watches for collectors with delicious taste appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
In this video, we crafted a list of some of the best dive watches on the market that meet the desired specifications of 200 meters of water resistance and some sort of countdown timer capabilities. We take a look at watches from brands like Tissot, Seiko, Citizen, G-SHOCK, Bulova, and CWC, just to name a few. Which watches did we miss? What should we put in part 2? In this video, we crafted a list of some of the best dive watches on the market that meet the desired specifications of 200 meters of water resistance and some sort of countdown timer capabilities. We take a look at watches from brands like Tissot, Seiko, Citizen, G-SHOCK, Bulova, and CWC, just to name a few. Which watches did we miss? What should we put in part 2? The post Over 22 of the Best Dive Watches for Under $1,000 appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Fratello
The Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture debuted in 2016. At that time, it was the most affordable perpetual calendar wristwatch on the market. Now the brand has made some welcome updates to it, so let’s take a look. Frederique Constant is a brand that always brings value when it comes to perpetual calendars. The […] Visit Introducing: The Updated Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Rolex has launched its first-ever ceramic dial with the GMT-Master II ref. 126729 VTNR. Left-handed like the “Sprite” of 2022, the new GMT-Master II is available only in 18k white gold – unsurprising since Rolex typically rolls out new innovations or features in precious metals. Dial aside, the rest is classic GMT-Master II. The movement is the latest-generation cal. 3285, while the bezel insert is in the same material as the dial, Cerachrom, Rolex speak for ceramic. Initial thoughts Unlike the game-changing Land Dweller, the new GMT-Master II is typical Rolex in being an incremental improvement over past models. Ceramic dials have been present in watchmaking for several years now, though this is a first for Rolex. Over time, ceramic dials will probably filter downwards into more affordable models as is the norm at the brand. Besides being a perfect match for the green half of the bezel, the ceramic dial is presumably more robustness than conventional lacquered dial, particularly in terms of scratch resistance and colour fastness (over decades or even centuries). Even though it’s not majorly novel, the ref. 126729 VTNR is a good looking watch and, in the usual Rolex fashion, is priced reasonably for what it is (though not cheaply). But it will also be a major hit, which makes availability scarce for some time to come. Two time zones One of the iconic travel watches, the GMT-Master II does a simple job very well. It can indicate up to three time zones with its combi...
Monochrome
The Alpine Eagle draws inspiration from the 1980s St. Moritz series, Chopard’s take on the then-trending luxury sports watch with an integrated bracelet-a trend that has regained momentum. The Chopard Alpine Eagle Flying Tourbillon joined the collection in 2022, following the introduction of the chronograph and high-frequency models. While there’s always room to discuss influences […]
Monochrome
As a brand that has always fostered its connection to Europe’s highest mountain, Montblanc’s Iced Sea collection of dive watches in 2022 was a surprise. With dials inspired by the Mer de Glace, the largest glacier in the Mont Blanc massif, the ISO certified dive watches can fathom depths of 300 metres. For 2025, Montblanc […]
SJX Watches
In a rare move, Rolex has unveiled an all-new bracelet, the Settimo, that goes with the Perpetual 1908. Comprised of seven polished and rounded links, the Settimo is vintage in style and available only in yellow gold for now, to match the 1908 in the same metal. Though unusual for Rolex, the new bracelet is typical Rolex in quality and construction, making it robust despite the compact links and supple feel. It also incorporates the Crownclasp with its hidden, spring-loaded locking mechanism. Initial thoughts Unlike the new GMT-Master II, the Settimo on the 1908 is unexpected. The original 1908 was already surprising when it was launched two years ago, since it was Rolex’s first new attempt at a dress watch in a long time. The supple Settimo bracelet is unlike other Rolex bracelets, which tend to be heavy and solid. Both in terms of look and feel, the pairs well with the 1908, which is one of the thinnest Rolex models with an Oyster case. The retro straight end links are also a nice touch. When purchased together, the 1908 on a bracelet costs about US$12,000 over the same on a strap, which makes the bracelet something of a value buy in terms of precious metal bracelets. The bracelet can be retrofitted to a 1908 originally sold with a strap, but it costs substantially more on its own. The only downside of the new bracelet is the fact that it’s only available in yellow gold, for now at least. I expect it’ll be rolled out across the 1908 progressively over time. Settimo...
Monochrome
Introduced in 2018, the Montblanc 1858 Geosphere series brought a unique world-time complication to the forefront, featuring two rotating globes depicting the northern and southern hemispheres. Designed with a distinctive vintage tool-watch aesthetic, it was Montblanc’s answer to the ultimate explorer’s timepiece – a rugged and reliable companion for mountaineering and outdoor adventures. Since its […]
Monochrome
Released in 2016 with a price tag of EUR 8,000, Frederique Constant’s Perpetual Calendar Manufacture was one of the most affordable QPs on the market. Powered by FC’s in-house calibre FC-775, the perpetual calendar appeared in the Slimline family and the sportier Highlife collection. For Watches & Wonders 2025, the perpetual calendar returns in a […]
![[VIDEO] Grand Seiko Redefines Accuracy - Again: Introducing the 9RB2 U.F.A. Spring Drive Caliber](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2025/03/GS_WW_UFA_021WR.jpg)
Worn & Wound
2022: the Kodo constant force tourbillon. 2023: the Tentagraph hi-beat mechanical chronograph. 2024: the 9SA4 manual wound, hi-beat, dual-impulse escapement caliber, and Kodo Daybreak. It’s easy to forget that Grand Seiko has brought the proverbial heat to Watches & Wonders every year since the fair started, unveiling something that one could call “revolutionary” for the brand, if on varying scales. Well, it’s looking like 2025 will continue the trend with the introduction of Spring Drive Caliber 9RB2, the first caliber with U.F.A., or Ultra Fine Accuracy, designation. Before proceeding, there are two important concepts to understand: Spring Drive and Grand Seiko’s history with acronyms (which, if you know, feel free to jump two paragraphs ahead). Starting with the former, the elevator pitch, which I will take from our article dedicated to the topic is “Spring Drive combines the best of mechanical watchmaking and the best of quartz timekeeping to create a state-of-the-art caliber that lacks the weaknesses inherent to both of these movements.” A bit deeper, Spring Drive movements use the energy stored in a traditional mainspring to drive their proprietary “Tri-synchro” regulator, which replaces the classic lever escapement. It consists of a glide wheel, the rate of which is controlled by an electromagnetic brake, and is essentially regulated by an integrated circuit with a quartz oscillator. The result is a mechanical movement with quartz-like accuracy and...
Monochrome
In 2022, we went as far as to consider the Tudor Black Bay Pro GMT the best tool watch we have seen that year, impressed by its cool design, ultra-robust construction and fair price. A perfect adventure watch, solid and legible, with a GMT complication for travellers – a do-it-all, wear-it-everywhere. This year, this Tudor […]
Monochrome
Since its introduction in 1932, many consider the Calatrava reference 96 as the paragon of an elegant dress watch. Although the collection has expanded in different directions, fans of the classical, timeless, time-only, ultra-slim, manual-winding dress watch will be pleased to learn about the latest Calatrava released during Watches & Wonders 2025. With its vintage-inspired […]
Worn & Wound
It’s a big year, literally and figuratively, for the Black Bay. This year, Tudor has introduced the all new Black Bay 68, continuing with a naming convention that began with the Black Bay 58 all those years ago. The new Black Bay 68 fills out the range of vintage inspired Black Bays with an all new size for the range, coming in at 43mm. According to Tudur, the new size was created to meet demand from customers who wanted a dive watch with a larger footprint. After the Black 58 and Black Bay 54 (both under 40mm) and the longstanding “standard” Black Bay coming in at 41mm, the Black Bay 68 represents genuinely new ground for the collection in terms of size, and signals that the small watch trend that many say started with the Black Bay 58 might be coming to an end. If you’re familiar with the various forms of the Black Bay, there won’t be too many surprises here. The case is stainless steel with a unidirectional black bezel, with dial options in blue and silver. The dials are subtly domed and have a barely-there radially brushed finish, and are matched with large lume filled hour markers. The hands are the now familiar “Snowflake” style launched in 1969. While the case is 43mm, the important thing to note about these watches is that they are proportionally identical to the Black Bay 54 and Black Bay 58. So, in spite of the larger size, they wear in a way that feels quite familiar if you’ve spent any time at all with either of those earlier Black Bays. Accor...
Worn & Wound
The original Alpina Tropic-Proof, released in 1965 under mysterious origins-even the Swis brand itself can’t pinpoint the exact date-was emblematic of the newfound adventurous spirit ushered in by the now-accessible boom of transatlantic air travel. With a case designed by François Borgel and a handwinding movement, the Tropic-Proof was meant to be a watch-of-all-trades that could travel the globe with ease, rather than a specialized tool. Six decades later, Alpina is reissuing that design with key nods to the model’s history and future. Appropriately dubbed the Heritage Tropic-Proof Handwinding, the watch is enveloped in an understated stainless steel case that measures 34mm in diameter. Both dial options-shiny-finished white or black-contrast well with the applied silver indexes and polished silver hands, and the dial design excels in its simplicity, without conceding elegance. The hour and minute hands, as well as the dotted minute track, are coated in beige Luminova to give the Tropic-Proof ease of use in darkness. A beige Alcantara strap with a pin buckle adds a touch of sophistication, but not overzealousness, keeping the watch within the boundaries of subtle class. A threaded solid caseback with an engraved Heritage pattern hides the handwinding AL-480 caliber movement, which touts a 42-hour power reserve. Capping off the simple but elegant design is an anti-reflective glass box sapphire crystal, which curves downwards to maintain viewing ease at all an...
Hodinkee
A platinum update to the brand's first round reference, the latest Calatrava retains its vintage roots, pleasing enthusiasts and newcomers alike.
Fratello
For the second year in a row, the Rolex releases were leaked on social media. Therefore, the new Land-Dweller collection was expected. Still, with Rolex, seeing photos hardly exposes all the details. The headline news is clear, though, and the largest brand is back in the market with its first integrated-bracelet model since 2003. It […] Visit Introducing: The Rolex Land-Dweller Collection to read the full article.
Monochrome
Vintage pilot watches have soared in popularity with remakes of legitimate aviator watches by historical brands and look-alikes by countless others. However, when Patek Philippe introduced its Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 5524 during Baselworld 2015, it caught everybody off guard. Presented in white gold with a blue dial and pushers on the left, the […]
Monochrome
When talking about vintage Grand Seiko watches, some references or acronyms have a lot of meaning. For instance, 44GS refers to one of the most important models ever, the watch that initiated the Grammar of Design and the shape of all subsequent creations. The acronym VFA also has its importance. Standing for Very Fine Adjusted […]
Monochrome
Ben Kuffer, the CEO of Norqain, is lucky to have industry heavyweight Jean-Claude Biver on his advisory board. Thanks to Biver’s valuable input, Norqain introduced its high-performance Wild One sports watch collection in 2022. Featuring an innovative carbon fibre composite case with a rubber shock absorber padding the titanium movement container, the Wild One is […]
Worn & Wound
Like Brendan Fraser’s career, the Polaroid camera, and even Crystal Pepsi, sometimes a renaissance of a once-beloved product can cause a lot of excitement in the market. I have a suspicion the same will be said of DOXA’s new SUB 250T GMT, which will be debuting at Watches and Wonders this year. As the name suggests, this is the first GMT function for the SUB collection in twenty years, answering the prayers for fans of the Swiss brand who have been asking for this configuration over the last two decades. With this latest release, we see a SUB design that’s true to its heritage (having been inspired by the SUB 750T GMT from 2006), but upgraded to meet contemporary needs – and in a whopping 18 new references. Starting from a design perspective, the real beauty of the SUB 250T GMT is that it hasn’t strayed too far away from its existing language, while still mixing form and functionality to give the people what they want. With nine colorways to choose from and in two strap options (a color-matched FKM rubber strap or a DOXA stainless steel “beads of rice” bracelet), each variation complements the 40mm stainless steel case and bezel. But, of course, this is a watch that’s meant to be worn – and put to the limit. With the new GMT function, it’s just waiting for an adventure. Sure, it’s a sports watch, but it’s one that’s been made to adapt to the wearer’s lifestyle. Heading on a plane for a meeting you can’t miss? Catching a few rays or diving am...
WatchAdvice
Breitling has released its latest Top Time collection and with it, a new in-house movement in the form of the Calibre B31 What We Love The vintage style will tick a lot of boxes for collectors The dial colour choices are on the mark The new B31 is a great step forward for Breitling What We Don’t The 38mm size may not suit all wrist sizes The date magnifier slightly detracts from the clean dial layout A quick change mechanism on the straps would have been welcomed, as would a screw in crown Overall Rating: 8.4 / 10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Before we get into the new watches, for those who are not up with their Breitling history, then let’s take a step back and look at just how the Breitling Top Time came to be, given it is one of the more niche, or cult collections in the brand’s stable. The Breitling Top Time burst onto the scene in the 1960s as a bold, youthful alternative to the brand’s more aviation-focused chronographs. Designed for a new generation of style-conscious adventurers, it stood out with striking dial layouts, often featuring contrasting sub-dials that gave it an unmistakable sporty edge that was inspired by and closely associated with all forms of motorsport. It quickly found its way onto the wrists of racers, thrill-seekers, and even Hollywood icons—most notably, James Bond in Thunderball (1965), where a specially modified Top Time doubled as a Geiger counter. This moment cemented its reputati...
Monochrome
The Armin Strom Orbit, with an innovative on-demand date display, debuted in 2022. It was initially launched as a limited “First Edition” before Armin Strom added a permanent collection reference with a black time subdial the same year. Just ahead of Watches and Wonders 2025, Armin Strom introduces a new version by adding a trendy purple […]
Monochrome
One thing you could never accuse Jacob & Co. of is being boring. With some of the most extraordinary and extravagant timepieces on the market, Jacob & Co.’s watches are always spectacular visually and mechanically. The latest model is an evolution of the 2023 The World is Yours Dual Time Zone. Upgraded with a 30-second […]
Monochrome
One of the rising stars of the independent watchmaking scene, Felipe Pikullik’s career began in Glashütte, then working with renowned watchmakers including Kudoke and Rolf Lang. In 2017, at the age of 23, he launched his own brand in Berlin with a focus on hand-skeletonized movements – some of the most impressive we’ve seen recently. […]
SJX Watches
Modelled on the first-ever Urwerk wristwatch, the UR-101 T-Rex is the independent watchmaker’s latest entry-level model. Priced at CHF38,000 before taxes, or about US$43,000, the UR-101 combines the brand’s signature wandering hours display with an aged bronze case finished with a scale-like guilloche. Initial thoughts Urwerk doesn’t do vintage-inspired watches often, and when it does the result is restyled enough to make it clearly modern. This is in keeping with the brand founders’ ethos, which looks forward rather than back. That’s the case with the UR-101 T-Rex. Though it takes the same form as the vintage original, it’s recognisable as a new creation. The vintage-inspired concept is appealing, as is the sub-US$50,000 price. While I like the idea of a revival, I find the “T-Rex” pattern a bit too aggressive. A polished finish that replicates the original would have been unimaginative, but more subtle engine turning would be an interesting counterpoint to the avant-garde style of the watch. That said, since the UR-101 is a limited edition of 100 pieces, I can safely assume that new variants are planned for the future. The tab on the back releases the crown to set the time Vintage inspired The new UR-101 is Urwerk’s second historically-inspired watch after the UR-102 “Reloaded” of 2023 that was similarly based on the brand’s early creations. Like its predecessor, the UR-101 retains the form of the vintage original, but is scaled up to 41 mm wide ...
Monochrome
Thanks to the accomplished vintage design of its successful Millesime collection, Raymond Weil is emitting a stronger signal on the watchmaking radar. While the brand has been active since 1976, it really came to the fore with third-generation members of the founding Weil family and their winning bet on the Millesime. Determined to bring the […]
Fratello
About five years ago, when another vintage Gallet chronograph watch landed in my collection, I told my wife what I had been daydreaming of for quite a while: “I will buy the Gallet brand someday!” Well, it seems that I was not the only one. Immediately after I learned about Breitling’s plans to acquire Gallet […] Visit Will Breitling’s Gallet Acquisition Reshuffle The List Of The Top 10 Watch Brands? to read the full article.
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