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The Quartz Astron Launch Seiko

Christmas Day 1969: Seiko launches the world\'s first quartz wristwatch and detonates the Swiss watch industry.
12 Carbon Fiber Watches from Entry-Level to Luxury Teddy Baldassarre
May 23, 2024

12 Carbon Fiber Watches from Entry-Level to Luxury

Since its beginnings, the wristwatch industry has engaged in an ongoing quest for materials that are lightweight yet exceptionally tough - a quest that has led to the mainstreaming of once-experimental materials such as titanium and ceramics. Among the most recent and most high-tech substances adopted for watchmaking are carbon fiber compounds, pioneered by research scientists in the 1950s and ‘60s and first used in the manufacture of automotive and jet engine parts. The first wristwatch with carbon fiber in its case was an IWC Ingenieur in 1980; other watchmakers followed suit in the ensuing decades, some of them even developing new and more resilient substances by combining carbon fibers with other materials. While the watches on this list cover a vast range in terms of pricing, design, and technical complexity, all of them share the core attributes bestowed by carbon fiber and its various derivatives: exceptional lightness, durability, scratch- and corrosion-resistance, and an industrial-chic surface treatment that is sure to spark conversation among fellow watch aficionados. G-Shock Mudmaster GWG2000 Price: $800, Case Size: 61.2mm x 54.4mm, Thickness: 16.1mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 200 meters, Movement: Casio Tough Solar Casio’s vast and diverse G-Shock collection offers some of its toughest multifunctional watches in the task-specific “Master of G” collection - like the Mudmaster, which as per its somewhat cartoonish name is aimed at wearers ...

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F.P. Journe’s Last-Ever Limited Edition – Chronographe FB SJX Watches
F.P. Journe s Last-Ever Limited Edition May 23, 2024

F.P. Journe’s Last-Ever Limited Edition – Chronographe FB

To mark 20 years of its first boutique, and also 20 years of limited editions, F.P. Journe has created its final limited edition of any sort. Limited to 200 pieces, the F.P. Journe Chronographe FB is a flyback chronograph with big date that’s powered by the manual-wind cal. 1518.2. Like past boutique anniversary editions, this has a titanium case with pink gold accents. Initial thoughts In terms of intrinsic attributes, the Chronographe FB scores well on all counts. It is a good looking watch that is priced well. The FB doesn’t depart from the established aesthetic for boutique editions, which is a good thing since the titanium-and-gold combination is appealing. The watch is classical F.P. Journe in terms of dimensions at 40 mm wide and just over 10 mm high, which makes it elegantly slim. Styling aside, the FB is also notable as it is equipped with a new calibre. Few brands design new movements for a small-run limited edition. Admittedly the cal. 1518.2 inside is based on the current split-seconds movement, but it is still a new, different construction. Technically, the movement is not as much of an achievement as say the FFC or Vagabondage III, but it is executed well, and the watch is priced right for the complication. As is typical for majority of F.P. Journe watches, the Chronographe FB is reasonably priced at retail, just CHF90,000 before taxes. Accessibility, rather than affordability, is instead the problem. That’s true despite the 200 piece run is bigger than...

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Fratello Talks: Buying, Selling, And Trading Watches With No Regrets Fratello
May 23, 2024

Fratello Talks: Buying, Selling, And Trading Watches With No Regrets

Hello, and welcome to this week’s episode of Fratello Talks. This topic is familiar to all those who spend enough time around watches and especially to those who consider themselves collectors. Buying, selling, and trading watches comes with the territory, and though a decision may seem solid at the time you make it, you may […] Visit Fratello Talks: Buying, Selling, And Trading Watches With No Regrets to read the full article.

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Behrens Takes On Haute Horlogerie With Its New Kung Fu Fratello
Behrens Takes May 22, 2024

Behrens Takes On Haute Horlogerie With Its New Kung Fu

It’s funny; I was in this same position last year. Having recently attended Watches and Wonders, one of the watches that most caught my eye during the week of releases was not actually at the show. Instead, it was over at Time To Watches. Behrens, one of my favorite brands, released a new watch in […] Visit Behrens Takes On Haute Horlogerie With Its New Kung Fu to read the full article.

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Just In Time For Summer: Five Divers Under $1,000 Worn & Wound
May 22, 2024

Just In Time For Summer: Five Divers Under $1,000

Few kinds of watches are as universally beloved as the dive watch. For myriad reasons – durability, legibility, history, and more – the classic dive watch, for essentially its entire history, has been a smashing success. We think it’s easy to see why: diver’s watches capture a sense of adventure and (mostly) anachronistic utility that still feels cool today. Their aesthetic has never really gone out of style, and there is no arguing that a solid dive watch is exactly what a lot of enthusiasts think of when they imagine what a “nice watch” is. Like with EDC gear or sports cars, there’s a sense of enjoyment of knowing that our tools are more than up to the task. Thankfully, an entry into the dive watch game doesn’t cost an arm and a leg; in fact, here are five dive watches under $1,000 that we would strap on any day for life’s adventures. Without further ado, let’s, um, dive in. Few kinds of watches are as universally beloved as the dive watch. For myriad reasons – durability, legibility, history, and more – the classic dive watch, for essentially its entire history, has been a smashing success. We think it’s easy to see why: diver’s watches capture a sense of adventure and (mostly) anachronistic utility that still feels cool today. Their aesthetic has never really gone out of style, and there is no arguing that a solid dive watch is exactly what a lot of enthusiasts think of when they imagine what a “nice watch” is. Like with EDC gear or spor...

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Tissot Introduces an Affordable Skeleton Automatic SJX Watches
Tissot Introduces May 22, 2024

Tissot Introduces an Affordable Skeleton Automatic

Tissot added to the Chemin Des Tourelles Squelette collection of accessibly-priced skeleton watches. Sharing the same exact case design as last year’s updated model, the trio of new additions have open-worked dials that display the inner workings of the Powermatic 80 calibre. Both the styling and movement are no-frills, and matched with a price below US$1,000, making them a good option for the beginner enthusiast. Initial thoughts Tissot is known for affordable Swiss-made watches and the Chemin des Tourelles Skeleton is exactly that. The novelty of the watch lies in the open dial that reveals the skeleton movement. Although the calibre isn’t fancily executed, it is cleanly finished and provides visual detail that sets this apart from most similarly priced watches. The design is also enhanced by the fact that it doesn’t have a date, which gives the dial a clean, symmetrical appearance. Priced between US$895 and US$975, the Chemin des Tourelles Skeleton is a good value proposition, especially since skeleton watches are not common in this price segment. Entry-level skeleton While the sporty PRX collection is now its most high profile product, the brand overhauled the Chemin des Tourelles line last year. Named after the street where the Tissot headquarters are located, Chemin des Tourelles is made up of dress watches, with the skeleton model being the top-of-the-line. The Chemin des Tourelles Skeleton has a case that’s 39 mm in diameter and 11.2 mm thick, with a domed ...

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Champagne Taittinger Trio that are Great Value: Les Folies de La Marquetterie, Prelude, and Vintage 2015 Quill & Pad
May 22, 2024

Champagne Taittinger Trio that are Great Value: Les Folies de La Marquetterie, Prelude, and Vintage 2015

None of these three champagnes are considered as prestige releases – for Taittinger, that would be their brilliant Comtes de Champagne – and consequently they are priced well below, each coming in at around one-third of the price of Comtes. You can’t go wrong. They are all beautiful champagnes and will reward drinking now or time in the cellar.

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A New Book Highlights Rare Watches and Thirty Years of European Watch Company Worn & Wound
May 21, 2024

A New Book Highlights Rare Watches and Thirty Years of European Watch Company

Being a watch collector sometimes means acquiring many other things that are tangentially related to the hobby. We talk about this stuff all the time on Worn & Wound. It’s not just the watch “stuff” that you’d expect, either. Things like straps, storage, and tools of course will naturally accumulate as a collection grows, but there are seemingly endless additional rabbit holes one can fall down that in one way or another support a watch collecting habit. Anyone who has been to a Windup event (or any large watch meetup for that matter) has surely noticed all of the collectors with nice cameras slung over their shoulders. You have to document these things somehow, right? And the bounds of enthusiasm stretch to things like sneakers, apparel, writing instruments, and EDC related gear, all areas we’ve explored in these pages, and all areas that have embraced watch collectors and that watch collectors, in turn, have welcomed. And then there are the books. Certainly many in this community have built libraries of watch reference volumes over the years. There are many to choose from, and some offer rare glimpses of watches with beautiful photography that gets you as close as you can to a dream watch short of owning it.  Last week saw the release of a new volume that borrows on three decades of tradition and knowledge for a book that is packed with information on some of the rarest watches. The Connoisseur’s Guide to Fine Timepieces is inspired by the life’s work of A...

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Longines Conquest 38 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Longines May 21, 2024

Longines Conquest 38 Review

Last year, Longines relaunched the Conquest, a mainstay of its collection since the mid-1950s, in a new execution heavily influenced by its earliest vintage forebears and staking out a dressier territory than its sporty dive-watch sibling, the Hydroconquest. Longines set out to expand the new Conquest’s appeal this year with a new series of models in unisex 38mm cases. Read on for a hands-on review of the new Conquest 38 with an effervescent champagne dial. Longines, founded in 1832 in the Jura valley of Switzerland, where it remains headquartered today, can claim a variety of milestones in its long history, including one that is largely overlooked. In the 1950s, Longines became one of the first watchmakers to introduce product “families,” today a staple of the watch industry; the first was the Conquest collection, whose name was registered on April 3, 1954 with the Swiss Registry of Intellectual Property and which launched that same year. Like just about any timepiece well past the half-century mark on the market, the Conquest has evolved substantially over the decades since. The first Conquest (Heritage re-edition pictured above) was a model of midcentury masculine simplicity, and one of the first wristwatches notable for its high levels of waterproofness and magnetic resistance. Its steel case measured a modest (but at the time standard) 35.2mm and fastened via wide, chamfered lugs to a leather strap. Its champagne-colored dial had arrowhead-style notched indexes ...

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Fratello On Air: Overpriced Vintage Watches From Tudor, Cartier, Rolex, And Seiko Fratello
Cartier Rolex May 21, 2024

Fratello On Air: Overpriced Vintage Watches From Tudor, Cartier, Rolex, And Seiko

Fratello On Air returns with an on-location episode where we discuss overpriced vintage watches. Specifically, we bring up models from Tudor, Cartier, Seiko, and Rolex. Yes, these are fighting words, but someone had to say them! We hope you enjoy the episode! This week, we’re together in London as Balazs traveled in for work. Close […] Visit Fratello On Air: Overpriced Vintage Watches From Tudor, Cartier, Rolex, And Seiko to read the full article.

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Highlights: Complicated Wristwatches at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Opera Two May 21, 2024

Highlights: Complicated Wristwatches at Phillips Hong Kong

Having covered the highlights from independent watchmakers and historical pocket watches at The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVIII on May 24 and 25, we now turn to complicated watches past and present. Amongst the historical are an Omega 30I tourbillon wristwatch tested at the Geneva, Neuchatel and Kew observatories, as well as a pair of chronographs with historical movements, an Excelsior Park with the Venus 179 split-seconds chronograph calibre and a Montblanc with the large, 17”’ Minerva monopoussoir chronograph movement. More recent is the Patek Philippe ref. 5059R London edition with applied Roman numerals and the Girard-Perregaux Opera Two, an ultra-complicated watch that’s a value-buy. The auction is scheduled for May 24 (lots 801-934) and May 25 (lots 935-1083), with online bidding and the catalogue available on Phillips.com. The Patek Philippe ref. 5059R made for the Grand Exhibition in London. 822 – Lange Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen” Launched in 2021 to overwhelming demand, the Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen” was the A. Lange & Söhne’s second luminous digital-display watch after the “Phantom” of 2010. It was a limited edition of 200 watches and based on the second-generation Zeitwerk, which is visually almost identical to the original model but enhanced with several technical upgrades, including a longer, 72-hour power reserve. Like the earlier “Phantom”, the Zeitwerk Honeygold “Lumen” has a tinted sapphire dial that reveals the luminous numer...

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Introducing: Panerai’s New Luminor Dieci Giorni GMT PAM01482 Fratello
Panerai s New Luminor Dieci May 21, 2024

Introducing: Panerai’s New Luminor Dieci Giorni GMT PAM01482

Panerai unveils a 44mm stainless steel Luminor with automatic GMT caliber and a 10-day power reserve. As part of the Complicazioni collection, which includes chronographs and high-end complications, the GMT allows the tracking of dual time zones. With the polished cushion-shaped case, sandwich dial, and recognizable crown protector, this new PAM01482 includes many notable Panerai […] Visit Introducing: Panerai’s New Luminor Dieci Giorni GMT PAM01482 to read the full article.

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Sinn T50 Review: Overengineered Titanium Excellence Two Broke Watch Snobs
Sinn T50 Review Overengineered Titanium May 21, 2024

Sinn T50 Review: Overengineered Titanium Excellence

The Sinn T50 is a tool watch by every measure of the phrase. Sinn took the chassis of the U50, swapped it to Titanium, “fixed” the handset, and added their Ar-Dehumidifying technology. It is this golden ratio of utility perfection, in my opinion. The same week the T50 was delivered, I departed on a two-week-long trip to Scotland. This was a perfect opportunity to get some long dedicated time with it for this review and I am eager to share my experiences with you.

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Kollokium Returns with their First Official Release Worn & Wound
Louis Erard May 20, 2024

Kollokium Returns with their First Official Release

Back in December, we told you about one of the most curious projects to come across our desks in a long time. A new watch from a new brand, Kollokium, began making the rounds on social media and the watch-internet in the days and weeks following Dubai Watch Week. Everything about it seemed almost intentionally mysterious and vague, and their marketing materials, if you could even call them that, pointed to the watch’s so limited it’s impossible to buy friends and family run, and didn’t even guarantee a second installment. Obviously, this worked hugely in Kollokium’s favor, and watch enthusiasts with adventurous taste have been anxiously anticipating a follow up. Now it’s here, the aptly titled Variant “B”.  A brief refresher on Kollokium for those who need it: it’s the brainchild of Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi, three watch industry veterans who each come from a different side of the larger watch world. Emch will be familiar to many as the CEO of Louis Erard, and has guided that brand to new heights in the last several years with a string of popular limited editions and smart collaborations. Nussbaumer might be less well known by name, but is someone you’ve almost certainly encountered through his watch designs – he’s worked for many brands over the years, including TAG Heuer, Hautlence, Peterman Bedat, Jaquet Droz, and many others. And Sindi is better known by his Instagram alias @thehorophile, one of our favorite spots to look at gr...

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Finding Futurism For Less Than €3,000 - 10 Takes On Modernity From SpaceOne, G-Shock , Kollokium, Behrens, And More Fratello
Behrens May 20, 2024

Finding Futurism For Less Than €3,000 - 10 Takes On Modernity From SpaceOne, G-Shock , Kollokium, Behrens, And More

Retro is still surfing a big wave of popularity, which is the unassailable truth. Though I often start articles by pondering whether or not we’ve reached peak vintage love, it’s still here, and I have nothing against it. But if you want something different, how about some futurism for less than €3,000? Sure, I love […] Visit Finding Futurism For Less Than €3,000 - 10 Takes On Modernity From SpaceOne, G-Shock , Kollokium, Behrens, And More to read the full article.

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A Tudor Black Bay 58 for Inter Milan SJX Watches
Tudor Black Bay 58 May 20, 2024

A Tudor Black Bay 58 for Inter Milan

To celebrate Inter Milan’s recent triumph in the Serie A – a 20th title for the Italian football club – Tudor has created the Black Bay 58 “Inter”. This limited edition Black Bay 58 (BB58) features a gradient blue dial with the club’s emblem above the six o’clock marker, flanked by two gold stars – one for each of the football club’s 10 league titles. First presented to the club’s players, the watch will be also available to the public as a limited edition of 1,908 pieces, available only at Tudor boutiques and retailers in Italy.  Initial thoughts Football aside, the BB58 “Inter” is a good looking watch. The blue ombré dial is striking and different from the usual Tudor aesthetic, and it compliments the vintage-inspired aesthetic well. At the same time, the Inter Milan logo and twin stars are also fairly discreet, while serving as visual balance for the Tudor logo above. The rest of the watch is identical to the standard model, which means a compact, easily wearable case, high-spec in-house movement. Pricing is also comparable to the regular production model, which makes it a great value proposition. The BB58 “Inter” presented to French footballer Marcus Thuram. Image – Inter Milan I Nerazzurri Already associated with the America’s Cup, Formula 1, and pro cycling, Tudor is now furthering its involvement with football. Already the official timekeeper for American soccer club Inter Miami C.F., Tudor is now partnered with one of the most famo...

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Business News: Richemont Appoints Nicolas Bos Group CEO SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre May 20, 2024

Business News: Richemont Appoints Nicolas Bos Group CEO

Alongside its results for the year ended March 2024 – with revenue at an all-time high but marked by slowing growth – Richemont announced a major management revamp with Nicolas Bos promoted to chief executive officer of the group that owns brands like Cartier and Piaget. His predecessor (but not exactly), Jérôme Lambert, will be the group’s chief operating officer. Having led Van Cleef & Arpels (VC&A;) for just over a decade, Mr Bos skilfully grew the jeweller’s revenue more than sixfold during his tenure. At the same time, he managed to established a recognisable identity for VC&A;, one distinct from its bigger sibling, Cartier. He has spent practically his entire career at Richemont, having joined the group in 1992. Prior to taking the top job at VC&A;, he was its creative director, a role he retained even after becoming the jeweller’s chief executive. Effective June 1, the promotion of Mr Bos lends credence to talk of retirement for Cartier boss Cyrille Vigneron, who at 63 is nearing the group’s retirement age. Having led Cartier since 2015, Mr Vigneron has transformed it into a reliably profit generator that accounts for about half of the group’s revenue and a great deal of its profits. And next most profitable brand in Richemont is of course VC&A;. Jerome Lambert Some are more equal than others Mr Bos’ new job implies a demotion of sorts for Mr Lambert, who was appointed chief executive officer in 2018, after having led Jaeger-LeCoultre and then Montbla...

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Highlights: Complicated Pocket Watches at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet all May 19, 2024

Highlights: Complicated Pocket Watches at Phillips Hong Kong

The upcoming Phillips watch auction in Hong Kong includes the expected offerings from establishment brands and independent watchmakers, but more unusually an impressive line-up of complicated pocket watches – almost all from the same owner. Though the number of pocket watches is small, the selection is particularly notable in terms of quality, complications, and condition. We look at a quartet of impressive pocket watches in the sale, including two important watches that are not Swiss but built on Swiss ebauches: a 1930 L. Leroy grand complication with a four-digit year indicator and the massive, 63 mm Charles Frodsham minute repeating split-seconds chronograph with tourbillon. With the exception of the Audemars Piguet, all the pocket watches were consigned by the same collector, who also owns the unique Patek Philippe ref. 767 grand complication with double-split seconds. The auction takes place on May 24 (lots 801-934) and May 25 (lots 935-1083), and the online catalogue is here. The Frodsham double complication with tourbillon 876 – L. Leroy & Cie. Minute Repeating Perpetual Calendar Chronograph “Leroy” is a storied name in French watchmaker that began with Basile Le Roy (1765-1839), who was a contemporary of Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823). Like Breguet, Le Roy was clockmaker to royalty, including Napoleon. But this Leroy pocket watch was made by the firm of L. Leroy & Cie. founded by Louis Leroy (1859-1934), who was not related to Le Roy but worked for the ...

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Sunday Morning Showdown: Doxa Sub 200T Vs. Aquastar Model 60 Fratello
Doxa Sub 200T Vs Aquastar May 19, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Doxa Sub 200T Vs. Aquastar Model 60

Welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown. The temperatures are rising, and the Sun is showing its face more and more often. It’s time to get ready for summer and choose the right dive watch to wear. Today, we’re putting two vintage-inspired divers up against each other, both of which could serve very well as your […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Doxa Sub 200T Vs. Aquastar Model 60 to read the full article.

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