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The new HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires is a high complication fit for Thanos Time+Tide
HYT Aug 30, 2023

The new HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires is a high complication fit for Thanos

The HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires is a limited edition of 8 pieces Its tourbillon calibre, with a spiral balance inclined at 30 degrees, was developed with master watchmaker Eric Coudray Framing the tourbillon, distinctly coloured gems – fuchsia, blue-grey and yellow – rotate at different speeds around the dial I am rather comfortable in … ContinuedThe post The new HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires is a high complication fit for Thanos appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breguet Makes Itself Heard with the Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes SJX Watches
Breguet Makes Itself Heard Aug 30, 2023

Breguet Makes Itself Heard with the Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes

The unveiling of a new minute repeater by a maker with Breguet’s pedigree should not be taken lightly. The brand has just unveiled the Classique 7637 Répétition Minutes, only the third repeating wristwatch in its catalogue after the Classique 5447 and the heavily jewelled Classique 7639. But with the new 7637, Breguet is focusing on minimalist elegance with a grand feu enamel dial in the most classical of styles. Initial thoughts Leaf through Breguet’s catalogue and it is clear that the Classique collection is the best testament to the heritage left behind by arguably the greatest watchmaker in history. The Classique 7637 Répétion Minutes exemplifies the masterfully executed timepieces that continue this legacy. All the main features of what makes this a Breguet are present to be appreciated by a discerning eye. The enamel dial with Breguet numerals and a “secret” signature, masterfully executed Breguet hands, a fluted case band – all reminders of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s legacy.  Notably, the movement inside is a legacy movement of sorts as well. The cal. 567.2 inside is descended from a Lemania movement conceived in the 1990s, explaining its classical architecture that suits the style of the watch. But like all Breguet movements, it has been upgraded, most interestingly with solid-gold gongs. At 42 mm, the rose gold case exceeds the classical dimensions that most makers abide by today, but the case has a 12.25 mm height that maintains elegant proportions...

Seiko Makes It Hard To Choose Favorites With Their New Addition of Seiko 5 GMTs Worn & Wound
Seiko Makes It Hard Aug 29, 2023

Seiko Makes It Hard To Choose Favorites With Their New Addition of Seiko 5 GMTs

A few months back, Seiko made a big splash in the watch scene with their sub-$500 GMT watch. With their own GMT movement inside and a design based on the iconic SKX case, they had an instant hit on their hands. We’re happy to offer their two latest dial colors: a dark charcoal grey and a bright and cheerful yellow. Read on to find out more about these two new Seikos that just landed at the Windup Watch Shop. A few months back, Seiko made a big splash in the watch scene with their sub-$500 GMT watch. With their own GMT movement inside and a design based on the iconic SKX case, they had an instant hit on their hands. We’re happy to offer their two latest dial colors: a dark charcoal grey and a bright and cheerful yellow. Read on to find out more about these two new Seikos that just landed at the Windup Watch Shop. The post Seiko Makes It Hard To Choose Favorites With Their New Addition of Seiko 5 GMTs appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Louis Erard Debuts an Art Deco Collaboration SJX Watches
Louis Erard Debuts Aug 25, 2023

Louis Erard Debuts an Art Deco Collaboration

Louis Erard gained a cult following collaborations with partners ranging from independent watchmakers to industrial designers. Now, the brand has teamed up with Switzerland-based watch influencer Amr Sindi, better known by his Instagram handle The Horophile. Their project, the Le Petite Seconde Metropolis, draws direct inspiration from Art Deco with its clean, distinctive dial. Initial thoughts Following their recent collaboration at Raketa, it comes as no surprise that Louis Erard chief Manuel Emch (who’s also helping run Raketa) and Mr Sindi have once again united their creative forces. While deviating from the contemporary design accented by Mr Sindi’s trademark purple that characterised his past creations, the trio of timepieces represent a unique interpretation of 1920s style.  The watches evoke the era without being remakes of 1920s watches. They are distinctive yet unbranded, enabling the design to be conveyed clearly. Aside from the Art Deco hour numerals, there is absolutely no text on the dial whatsoever. In my view, this exemplifies how watch brands should design a retro watch, rather than simply generating a remake based on archives. While the dial is new, the rest of the watch is identical to the regular production model. That means a relatively thick case, which is the only major shortcoming of the design. The Le Petite Seconde Metropolis is priced at US$2,900, which is roughly in the same price range as the standard version of the model. Although the pr...

Timex Pushes Boundaries with Giorgio Galli S2 Worn & Wound
Timex Pushes Boundaries Aug 24, 2023

Timex Pushes Boundaries with Giorgio Galli S2

Timex takes their relationship with Giorgio Galli a step further with a new iteration of the series called, naturally, the GGS2. The new watch retains much of the drama of the S1 (which our Ed Jelley reviewed here), but ramps up the minimal nature of the design language with a near sterile black dial set within one of the most unique cases you’re likely to find under $1,000. As with all of the Timex Giorgio Galli watches, there’s plenty to appreciate in the small details, and with even fewer components brought to the table here, those details matter all the more. The S2 is chic on the exterior, and this time, gains a bit of Swiss cache on the inside.  The S2 sets the stage for a new generation of Giorgio Galli watches from Timex, revealed in its most elemental form here that is easy to imagine spawning additional variations. The all black dial set under a sapphire crystal is framed by a single applied ring that hosts a notch for each hour of the day. It’s a stark scene but everything that’s there makes a big impact. The structure of that ring is subtle, but it’s mirrored in the hand-set in both design and tone. Only the word Timex appears at the top of the dial, while the Giorgio Galli and S2 Automatic labels are relegated to the bottom of that ring ring structure. While the dial has certainly evolved, the case retains its signature injection-molded skeleton execution with titanium inserts for the movement and caseback. It’s a bit exotic feeling and sets this ...

Audemars Piguet Teams Up with Designer Matthew Williams SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Teams Up Aug 24, 2023

Audemars Piguet Teams Up with Designer Matthew Williams

Four new Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore models have been announced, along with one unique piece that make up this latest collaboration. With a mixture of yellow gold, white gold and two-tone, all pieces are co-branded with Audemars Piguet and 1017 ALYX 9SM, Matthew Williams’ own brand, on the dial and rotor. Initial thoughts It’s nice to see collaborations like this taking place. When someone with the fashion and design pedigree of Matthew Williams enters the watch space, it is always worth taking note, as they are bound to bring a fresh and unique perspective. However, here it would seem he has just taken the designs he previously made with MAD Paris and asked Audemars Piguet to make them instead. The only visual difference being that the original ones had circular brushed dials, whereas these are vertically brushed. While the variety of case size and metal is appreciated, it is clear that these designs are not original with perhaps the only real difference being that the date window has been removed from the standard Royal Oak. Having the same aesthetic treatment applied across the time-only Royal Oak, chronograph Royal Oak and Offshore is nice to see, making this a cohesive collection. And the unique piece carries pleasing contrasts with the two-tone case and dark, PVD-coated dial giving a look that seems fitting for the streetwear-savvy Williams. There has been no communication on the price of these pieces, nor how many are set to be produced. All we can be sure ...

The Grand Seiko SBGJ275 and SBGM253 take to Mount Iwate skies celebrating the 9S movement Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGJ275 Aug 24, 2023

The Grand Seiko SBGJ275 and SBGM253 take to Mount Iwate skies celebrating the 9S movement

The Grand Seiko SBGJ275 and SBGM253 celebrate the 25th anniversary of the 9S mechanical movement The SBGJ275 from the Sport Collection depicts the cloudy sky above Mt. Iwate The SBGM253 from the Elegance Collection takes a sophisticated approach with a blue sunburst dial The gradual departure from navy blue to sky blue as a watch … ContinuedThe post The Grand Seiko SBGJ275 and SBGM253 take to Mount Iwate skies celebrating the 9S movement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Longines Master Collection Small Seconds is what happens when a brand listens to enthusiasts Time+Tide
Longines Master Collection Small Seconds Aug 23, 2023

The Longines Master Collection Small Seconds is what happens when a brand listens to enthusiasts

Longines unveils an engraved trio with three different dial colours in three different finishes The watches are downsized from 40mm to 38.5mm, in a move destined to be popular among enthusiasts An azurage-finish petite seconde is courtesy of the silicon hairspring-equipped L893.5 How often do you see a brand new release that immediately captures you? … ContinuedThe post The Longines Master Collection Small Seconds is what happens when a brand listens to enthusiasts appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Zenith DEFY 21 Chroma II is another high-tech taste of the rainbow Time+Tide
Zenith DEFY 21 Chroma II Aug 22, 2023

The Zenith DEFY 21 Chroma II is another high-tech taste of the rainbow

Zenith’s colourful limited edition from last year has returned, this time in black ceramic too The white variant now features a subtly different colour gradation An El Primero movement and openworked dial provides plenty of visual drama There’s just something undeniably fun and alluring about a rainbow watch. There’s a sort of horseshoe effect with … ContinuedThe post The Zenith DEFY 21 Chroma II is another high-tech taste of the rainbow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

New: Franck Muller CURVEX™ CX  Deployant
Franck Muller Aug 19, 2023

New: Franck Muller CURVEX™ CX 

Franck Muller With its perfectly curved case and unique contours, the Cintrée Curvex™ is the brand's most distinctive silhouette. The unique and beautiful design of the numerals is also what makes the Cintrée Curvex immediately recognisable. Today, we present a redesigned case called the Curvex CX where the sapphire crystal extends all the way to the bracelet, giving much greater visibility to the dial. Furthermore, the bezel which is separate from the case, allows beautiful two-tone treatments.

Brew Introduces the first Mechanical Metric, a Limited Edition of 500 Pieces Worn & Wound
Seiko Aug 16, 2023

Brew Introduces the first Mechanical Metric, a Limited Edition of 500 Pieces

Brew has been on a hot streak with their Metric ever since the first examples were shown back in the summer of 2021. In the time since, brand owner and designer Jonathan Ferrer has iterated on the basic Metric principles to great effect, adding new dial colors as well as gold and black PVD coated cases that transform the 1970s sport watch in terms of its character and overall presentation. But until now, the Metric had always been built on the same Meca-quartz platform, with a VK68 hybrid movement built by Seiko that allows for quartz timekeeping and a mechanical chronograph operation. Today, Brew unveils the Metric Automatic, the first Metric powered by a mechanical movement, and the first non-chronograph in the line.  A lot of the design cues here will feel very familiar to Metric owners and longtime Brew fans. The 1970s vibes of the original Metric (as well as watches like the Retrograph and Retromatic) really come primarily from the case, which in the case of the Metric resembles a rounded square, with a bracelet that appears to be integrated to the case. The size is also key – the Metric Automatic comes in at the same svelte dimensions as its Meca-quartz counterpart, with a diameter of 36mm, a lug to lug span of 41.5mm, and a case height of just 10.75mm. It’s a refreshingly compact design, and really does feel like a vintage watch on the wrist.  For this first mechanical Metric, we get a simple black dial with chunky hour markers and Arabic numerals counting off...

The Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date “Golden Bay” and “Ocean Breeze” limited editions are a retro holiday from the ordinary Time+Tide
Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date Aug 13, 2023

The Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date “Golden Bay” and “Ocean Breeze” limited editions are a retro holiday from the ordinary

Glashütte Original is back with two new limited edition variants of their retro-inspired Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date The rounded-square TV case recalls the freewheeling fashion aesthetic that dominated the 1970s Two matte lacquered dial choices are available, a pale ochre and a muted grey-blue The latest offerings from Glashütte Original conjure up nostalgia-fuelled visions of … ContinuedThe post The Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date “Golden Bay” and “Ocean Breeze” limited editions are a retro holiday from the ordinary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close with Nomos × Revolution Tangente neomatik 41 Update ‘Resilience’ Revolution
Nomos × Revolution Tangente neomatik Aug 11, 2023

Up Close with Nomos × Revolution Tangente neomatik 41 Update ‘Resilience’

Get up close with our newest limited edition in collaboration with NOMOS Glashütte, the Nomos × Revolution Tangente neomatik 41 Update ‘Resilience,’ featuring the Fibonacci sequence, a symbol of growth and resilience, subtly integrated into its minute track. For a sleek, pared-back aesthetic, it has a midnight blue dial with white indexes and hands and […]

Does the new Longines HydroConquest GMT signal a collection redesign? Time+Tide
Longines HydroConquest GMT signal Aug 10, 2023

Does the new Longines HydroConquest GMT signal a collection redesign?

The Longines HydroConquest GMT departs from the cult-classic look for a more familiar case shape. The green and brown dial options are especially sumptuous, with gold details and colour-matched date wheels. The new GMT design may be divisive among HydroConquest fans, but will certainly attract a wider audience. Longines are one of the biggest players … ContinuedThe post Does the new Longines HydroConquest GMT signal a collection redesign? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

King Seiko Turns to the Geometry of the Chrysanthemum SJX Watches
Grand Seiko pays homage Aug 10, 2023

King Seiko Turns to the Geometry of the Chrysanthemum

Seiko has unveiled a limited-edition iteration of its vintage-inspired timepiece, the King Seiko. The King Seiko SJE095 features a textured dial adorned with a uniquely Japanese motif-a geometric pattern known as kiku tsunagi-mon inspired by the chrysanthemum flower. Save for the patterned dial, the limited edition maintains the compact case profile found in the King Seiko SJE089 and SJE091 was earlier this year.  Initial thoughts While the latest King Seiko models have a notably streamlined case, the stylistic resemblance to the original from 1965 bordered on being a vintage remake. Fortunately, Seiko has decided to create a standout iteration (albeit a limited edition) that, as is often the case with Seiko and Grand Seiko, pays homage to Japanese culture in the dial decoration. The highlight is the intricate geometric pattern on the dial. Besides evoking traditional Japanese cut-glassware, the engraving possesses a degree of elegance, while upholding a sense of balance in the dial. The balance could have been improved if the date window were absent, allowing the engraving to run uninterrupted across the dial.  This limited edition carries a price of US$3,400, just US$100 more than the standard King Seiko. The small difference makes this a no-brainer over the regular production model, though it can be argued this is somewhat pricey in absolute terms for a mid-range Seiko model. Rooted in tradition This limited edition draws substantial inspiration from the chrysanthe...

Hands-on with the Rado DiaStar Original Skeleton WatchAdvice
Rado DiaStar Original Skeleton Pros Aug 8, 2023

Hands-on with the Rado DiaStar Original Skeleton

Pros Unique sapphire crystal The cool Ceramos bezelSkeletonized dial Cons Crown operations can get trickyCombining Square faceted sapphire crystal and Skeleton dial can get busy.Design cues for the DiaStar are not for everyone. Overall Rating: 7.75/10 Value for money: 7.5/10Wearability: 7.5/10Design: 8/10Build quality: 8/10 Rado’s iconic DiaStar model gets another update following last year’s 60th anniversary of the DiaStar edition, getting a case material change from hard metal to Rado CeramosTM and a one of kind Square faceted sapphire crystal. The Rado DiaStar was first introduced in 1962, and what an introduction it was. A milestone for the watch industry, the Rado DiaStar came with a ‘funky’ design and, more importantly, a scratch-proof case. Rado designed the very first DiaStar as a ceramic timepiece with a material called “tungsten carbide”. Although some people may argue that it’s not ceramic, tungsten carbide is considered ceramic, at least by the American Ceramic Society.  This is important because no timepiece at the time of DiaStar’s debut could offer a scratch-proof watch. When it comes to material innovation, the Diastar in ceramic was a breakthrough for the watchmaking industry. In modern times, the use of ceramic on timepieces is a more regular occurrence; however, for the industry as a whole, brands didn’t get on board with this material till around the 1980s. This highlights how far ahead in terms of material expertise and usage Rado wa...

Adding Some Vintage Style With The Panerai Radiomir Tre Giorni WatchAdvice
Panerai Radiomir Tre Giorni Aug 4, 2023

Adding Some Vintage Style With The Panerai Radiomir Tre Giorni

The chance to experience the latest 3 day Radiomir from Panerai was too hard to pass up. But how did it hold up, especially comparing it to the 8 Giorni I road-tested a month or so ago? What We Love Vintage styled design aestheticSlim case profile sits flush to the wristTextured dial and aged lumed numerals What We Don’t Thick strap is a little chunkyNo see through caseback3 Day Manual Winding Overall Rating: 8.875/10 Value for money: 9/10Wearability: 9/10Design: 8.5/10Build quality: 9/10 Back in June, I was able to experience the new Panerai Radiomir 8 Giorni that the brand released for Watches and Wonders this year. I was immediately drawn to the distressed look of the eSteel and the blue smoked and textured dial. Check out my review of it here for the full details. So when the opportunity came up to wear the Tre Giorni (three day) version for a couple of weeks, and be able to compare directly to the 8 Days variant, I jumped at the chance. And what better place to photograph a watch with nautical and Navy roots than down by the bay and marina! Seemed fitting to take a naval inspired watch to the marina for some photos First Impressions Now, the differences between the Tre Giorni and the Otto Giorni are not huge, and other than the movement’s power reserve, it’s basically aesthetics. But then the look of a watch is a major factor when it comes to what you choose. It either looks good and resonates with you, or it doesn’t. The first impression of the Tre Giorni is ...

The new Bovet 1822 Récital 23 in green and blue is a visual extravaganza for the wrist Time+Tide
Bovet Aug 3, 2023

The new Bovet 1822 Récital 23 in green and blue is a visual extravaganza for the wrist

The Bovet 1822 Récital 23 is advertised as a women’s watch, however it can suit any lover of opulence. The Writing Slope case angles the dial towards you for easier reading. The moonphase display only needs adjusting every 122 years, and the twin-barrel movement offers 62 hours of power reserve. Bovet are a brand with … ContinuedThe post The new Bovet 1822 Récital 23 in green and blue is a visual extravaganza for the wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands On: Tudor Black Bay GMT “Opaline” SJX Watches
Tudor Black Bay GMT “Opaline” Jul 31, 2023

Hands On: Tudor Black Bay GMT “Opaline”

Released in March at Watches & Wonders, the Black Bay GMT “Opaline” is perhaps the most notable travel watch in Tudor’s line up thanks to a silvery-white dial that may or may not have been inspired by the Rolex GMT-Master “Pan Am”. A variant of the original model in black, the Black Bay GMT with a white dial is typical Tudor – namely excellent quality and outstanding value – but it might be a subtle reference to the mythical, and sometimes controversial, GMT-Master “Pan Am”. Though there’s no official reference to the potential historical inspiration, the GMT “Opaline” is an in-joke that a historically-minded enthusiast will appreciate. Initial thoughts To the casual observer, the Black Bay GMT “Opaline” might seem like yet another iteration of Tudor’s bestselling dive watch. In fact, the GMT might seem less appealing when set against the equally recent Black Bay 54 with its properly-vintage proportions. But the GMT “Opaline” deserves a second look. The softly-grained dial with its “polar” palette is clear, clean, and well-executed, and most importantly possesses a different feel compared to the black dial of the original version, especially since black is the de facto dial colour for sports watches and very, very common. Being a dual time zone and silvery-white, the GMT “Opaline” is different despite its traditional design. That said, the GMT “Opaline” is otherwise entirely the same as the model introduced in 2018, which mea...

Omega’s Novel Take on the Seamaster Diver 300M for Paris 2024 Olympics SJX Watches
Omega s Novel Take Jul 28, 2023

Omega’s Novel Take on the Seamaster Diver 300M for Paris 2024 Olympics

As the Summer Olympics in Paris approach, Omega introduces a special edition of the Seamaster Diver 300M. Limited editions for the event are a given, but this latest Olympic edition is dressed in unusual livery for a Seamaster. The brand’s Moonshine Gold alloy is used for bezel, while the dial is bright white ceramic.  Initial thoughts Considering Omega’s long association with the Olympics stretches back 91 years, the number of limited editions for the games is numerous. Many were regrettably rather mundane in design, featuring the customary dial colour changes and Olympic markings. However, this particular edition stands out with its lighter tones, a departure from the typically dark hues of Omega’s dive watches, which was also the usual look of previous Olympic editions. And because this is an Omega, the colours are as much about aesthetics as materials. One aspect that particularly appeals in this release is the Moonshine Gold bezel. The golden insert complements the white ceramic dial and the stainless steel case and bracelet. This gives the watch a sense of visual luxury, making it different from the typical diver special edition without being gimmicky, which arguably gives it more longevity in terms of style. The price of this special edition stands at US$8,700, notably higher than the standard steel model, which is rationalised by the gold bezel no doubt. It will only be available, for the moment, at Omega boutiques in Paris. That said, the brand has not yet ...