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Geneva Watch Days to Take Place August 2020 SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux H Moser & Cie May 28, 2020

Geneva Watch Days to Take Place August 2020

First scheduled for April 2020 to coincide with the twin events Baselworld and Watches & Wonders – how the world of watch fairs changed since then – Geneva Watch Days was postponed to August 2020 after life was halted by the COVID-19 pandemic. But now the event has been confirmed for late August 2020, making it the only “multi-brand watch event in Switzerland” according to its organisers. With eight brands taking part, and perhaps more to come, Geneva Watch Days will be made up of a series of separate events across Geneva – with the central reception desk at the lakeside Four Seasons Hotel – with each brand essentially doing its own thing. Only a handful of evening events will see all the attendees gather, but only as far as Swiss government’s public health regulations allow. But in many respects the event aims to be similar to Baselworld, being catered for the trade – namely retailers and press – rather than the public. Visitors have to register in advance, as well as make appointments with brands to see the latest watches. Bulgari, Breitling, De Bethune, Gerald Genta, Girard-Perregaux, H. Moser & Cie., MB&F;, Ulysse Nardin, and Urwerk have all confirmed their participation at Geneva Watch Days. The event will take place August 26-29, 2020, at various locations across Geneva. To register as an attendee, visit Gva-watch-days.com.  

HANDS-ON: The Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946, a modern-sized vintage charmer with heft Time+Tide
Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946 May 26, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946, a modern-sized vintage charmer with heft

There is a lot to be said for a simple chronograph. Something clear, easy to read and a pleasure to look at. You don’t always want to strap a large, bulky watch to your wrist. One with more information on the dial than you will ever use, and with at least half the displays doing … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946, a modern-sized vintage charmer with heft appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: 5 almost instantly sold out collaborations that have consolidated the cult of Unimatic Time+Tide
Unimatic May 17, 2020

MICRO MONDAYS: 5 almost instantly sold out collaborations that have consolidated the cult of Unimatic

Editor’s note: There are more micro and independent watchmakers out there than you could possibly ever discover in one lifetime – literally thousands upon thousands of different brands, all vying for your hard-earned. Ascertaining which makers are the successful ones is pretty simple. If they’ve been established for anything more than two years and they’re still … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: 5 almost instantly sold out collaborations that have consolidated the cult of Unimatic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

What Sealed The Deal: Daniel’s Zenith Chronomaster El Primero 45mm Time+Tide
Zenith Chronomaster El Primero 45mm May 16, 2020

What Sealed The Deal: Daniel’s Zenith Chronomaster El Primero 45mm

Editor’s note: For many watch enthusiasts out there, including me, one of the biggest problems we can come across is timepieces that are just too… big. I’ll freely admit it: I’ve got dainty wrists, and yes, it’s a problem. Luckily, though, watchmakers are catching on that there are more than a few individuals like me … ContinuedThe post What Sealed The Deal: Daniel’s Zenith Chronomaster El Primero 45mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

James picks his 5 favourite new watches from 2020, including Bulgari, Omega & Grand Seiko Time+Tide
Grand Seiko I must have written May 15, 2020

James picks his 5 favourite new watches from 2020, including Bulgari, Omega & Grand Seiko

I must have written and rewritten this yarn half a dozen times. Every single moment I think I’ve cracked it, something in watch world happens that completely changes the narrative and content. First, everything got cancelled because of the pandemic we’re all sick of talking about. Then Patek and Rolex said no new watches this … ContinuedThe post James picks his 5 favourite new watches from 2020, including Bulgari, Omega & Grand Seiko appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The New Blacklist, Part 1: The best new all-black watches, from around $250 to over $200,000 Time+Tide
Reservoir Dogs will know what May 11, 2020

The New Blacklist, Part 1: The best new all-black watches, from around $250 to over $200,000

Black, noir, sable, stygian … whatever name you wish to call it, there can be no debate – black itself is always cooler than whatever is “the new black”. Anyone who’s seen Tarantino’s 1992 cult classic Reservoir Dogs will know what I mean. And anything that is painted black instantly becomes far, far cooler. Henry … ContinuedThe post The New Blacklist, Part 1: The best new all-black watches, from around $250 to over $200,000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: IWC Da Vinci Tourbillon Four Seasons SJX Watches
IWC Da Vinci Tourbillon Four May 8, 2020

Up Close: IWC Da Vinci Tourbillon Four Seasons

The two decades or so after the end of the Quartz Crisis was a fruitful one for the mechanical watch industry as it revived itself. IWC was one of the stars of that revival, a highly technical yet niche brand that appealed to true watch nerds. Everything it did then became the foundations for its modern day success – literally, with the brand still relying on the complications invented then. One of the most interesting, yet little-known IWC watches from that era is the Da Vinci Tourbillon Four Seasons. A limited edition of 20 watches that debuted in 1999, the Four Seasons (or Quattro Stagioni as it was known at the launch) has a hand-engraved, solid-gold dial – the Da Vinci Tourbillon represents the only instance IWC has bestowed such elaborate dials on its watches. A year after the launch of the Four Seasons, IWC was acquired by Swiss luxury group Richemont, making it perhaps the major complication the brand unveiled before the change of ownership. Intriguingly, the combination of an engraved dial and complicated movement, as well as the style of engraving, brings to mind some of the Handwerkskunst watches by A. Lange & Söhne, then as now, a sister company of IWC. But perhaps more important is the movement, which is the only hand-wound calibre in this generation of Da Vinci. Not only is the manual-wind calibre better looking – by a massive margin – but the movement is descended from the Il Destriero Scafusia, the grand complication made for the brand’s 125th ...

Ming Introduces the 27.01 SJX Watches
Ming May 1, 2020

Ming Introduces the 27.01

Ming is a “micro brand” that has gained tremendous recognition in a remarkably short period thanks to a well-cultivated design language and smart pricing. While the brand started out with the affordable 17 series, it then went upmarket with the 19 series. Now the brand has unveiled a new model that’s in-between the two, the Ming 27.01. In many ways it’s an evolution of the entry-level 17 series, with a more elaborately-conceived but notably thin case as well as a major upgrade in terms of mechanics, resulting in a slightly higher retail price of 3,950 Swiss francs. Initial thoughts The 27.01 is a good-looking derivative of the 17 series that launched the brand. But it’s not just a similar design, the watch has been upgraded in a useful way, mainly with slimmer proportions and a more interesting movement. Though the base movement is a pedestrian ETA Peseux, it’s been smartly modified to look different and attractive (though the revamped bridges look a bit skimpy leading to minor worries about shock resistance). While the 17 series was great value for money – and cost very little money – the 27.01 is pricey in comparison. It’s priced substantially higher, at about US$4,000, which is still reasonable value, but less easily compelling than the 17 series. An exercise in reductivism While the 27.01 retains the same 38 mm case diameter as the 17.01, its height of just 6.9 mm 27.01 makes it the slimmest Ming watch to date. Because of its svelte dimensions, the ca...

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Marina Titanio DMLS PAM01117 SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces Apr 24, 2020

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Marina Titanio DMLS PAM01117

At a glance, Panerai’s latest Luminor unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2020 might look like, well, just another Luminor. But the Luminor Marina Titanio DMLS (PAM01117) is more than that. It incorporates a new type of luminous paint with an extra-bright glow, while boasting a titanium case produced via a process similar to 3D printing. And most crucially, the watch is covered by a 70-year warranty. Given that Panerai’s identity is inextricably linked with legible, glow-in-the-dark dials, the new “lume” found on the Luminor DMLS makes sense. The watch features Super-Luminova X – a lot of it. Beyond the usual dial and hands, the new Luminor also had luminous paint on the flange around the dial, crown locking bridge and lever, and the stitching of the fabric strap. The use of “lume” as a decorative element brings to mind the Lumen series of A. Lange & Söhne (which is a sister brand of Panerai within Swiss luxury group Richemont), but here the luminous paint is executed in clean lines for a geometric pattern. Though the Luminor DMLS is a large 44 mm in diameter, it is only 100 g, making it the lightest Panerai watch with a metal alloy case. The case is produced via direct metal laser sintering (DMLS), the same process to make the case of the Lo Scienzato Luminor 1950 Tourbillon GMT Titanio PAM00578 from 2016. DMLS is a form of 3D printing where a laser is used to melt titanium powder tiny amounts at a time, layer by layer as the case is built up. The nature of the p...

Cartier Introduces the Santos-Dumont Limited Editions SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces Apr 24, 2020

Cartier Introduces the Santos-Dumont Limited Editions

Hot on the heels of the Santos-Dumont XL hand-wind, Cartier has dropped four limited edition variants of the same at Watches & Wonders 2020, each dedicated to one of Alberto Santos-Dumont’s most significant aircraft. Within just a decade, the pioneering Franco-Brazilian aviator designed and piloted diverse methods of conquering the skies, from balloons and dirigibles to heavier-than-air aircraft. The four flying machines commemorated by the new limited edition Santos-Dumont watches each represent a different milestone in his career, starting with his first balloon, the Brésil of 1898, to his greatest feat, the La Demoiselle plane of 1908.   Increasing in edition size as the price decreases with the preciousness of the case, all four editions are mechanical, powered by the ultra-thin 430 MC found in the Santos-Dumont XL, which is actually a Piaget 430P. Though they share the same movement, the editions are not all the same size. The first three are in the large Santos-Dumont case, with dimensions of 43.5 mm by 31.4 mm, perfectly appropriate for a modern-day dress watch, offering just the right balance between elegance and presence. The last and most expensive edition, on the other hand, is platinum and XL size, meaning it is 46.6 mm by 33.9 mm. Santos-Dumont XL in platinum (extreme left), and the trio of large-size editions Santos-Dumont “Le Brésil” Limited to 100 pieces, “Le Bresil” is named after Santos-Dumont’s first flying machine, a hot-air balloon not...

ISO-FIX: Depressed? Here are 15 fun, guilt-free watches you can buy right now for under $1000 Time+Tide
Apr 20, 2020

ISO-FIX: Depressed? Here are 15 fun, guilt-free watches you can buy right now for under $1000

There have been several strange side effects of the rubbish situation we currently find ourselves in. Pushbikes, for example, are now more valuable than palladium. And because everything social (cafes, restaurants, bars, clubs etc.) is closed, it’s enabled some of us to save cash that we otherwise would’ve blown on boujee smashed avo brunches. Now that’s not … ContinuedThe post ISO-FIX: Depressed? Here are 15 fun, guilt-free watches you can buy right now for under $1000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Vantablack Black Hands SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Apr 2, 2020

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Vantablack Black Hands

On April Fools’ Day last year, H. Moser & Cie. published a doctored image of a watch with an all-black dial missing hands, a riff on its watches with blacker-than-black dials. The hoax watch turned into something of a hit, which has led to the latest trio of limited editions, the Vantablack Black Hands – which will also be available online directly from the brand. All three watches – ranging from a stainless-steel base model to a limited-edition tourbillon – feature dials coated in Vantablack, a high-tech coating that absorbs almost all incident light – making it extremely and almost absolutely black – matched with black-coated hands. Because the coating on the hands is more of a dark grey, and also glossy, the hands do actually stand apart from the dial, appearing to be suspended in nothing because the dial is so black. The Endeavour Tourbillon with the reflection being on the crystal, rather than the dial Venturer Vantablack Black Hands XL in steel Invented by a spin-off from the University of Surrey in the United Kingdom, Vantablack is made up of carbon nanotubes arranged vertically, like a surface covered in really fine fur. The carbon nanotubes absorb 99.965% of incident light, resulting in a surface that resembles a deep, dark hole, which is an quirky and strangely appealing finish for a watch dial. Even though other substances are even blacker than Vantablack – with the record held by an MIT invention from 2019 –  Vantablack is the best-known...

Business News: Sotheby’s to Start Weekly Online Watch Auctions SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Mar 31, 2020

Business News: Sotheby’s to Start Weekly Online Watch Auctions

Having postponed its traditional April and May watch auctions till June and July respectively – no doubt with fingers crossed and a quiet prayer – as a result of the COVID-19 coronavirus, Sotheby’s has just announced Watches Weekly, an ongoing series of online-only watch auctions starting April 1, 2020. The auctions will take place on a rolling basis, with each sale lasting a week, then followed by the next sale, and so on. Each auction be centred around a theme while being relatively compact – the first sale is made up of 19 watches by Rolex and Audemars Piguet. The subsequent auctions will be Patek Philippe Design and Horology from April 8-15, then something for bargain hunters, Swiss Wristwatches with no reserve on April 15-22. Sam Hines, Sotheby’s global head of watches, explained the move in the announcement: “[Clients] are also increasingly confident [of buying] important pieces online. This was demonstrated last week, when we set a new record for a watch sold online at Sotheby’s [162,500 Swiss francs for a Rolex Daytona “Paul Newman” ref. 6262].” According to Mr Hines, the newly-announced online auctions will “complement the calendar of live sales and other online auctions already planned for the rest of the year”, implying that the rest of the auction calendar will proceed as planned. Watches Weekly makes Sotheby’s the first mainstream watch auctioneer – its peers are Christie’s, Phillips, and to a lesser degree, Antiquorum – to s...

Up Close: MB&F; HM10 Bulldog SJX Watches
MB&F; Mar 24, 2020

Up Close: MB&F; HM10 Bulldog

MB&F; has always been about pushing the boundaries of aesthetic and conceptual creativity in watchmaking, lassoing in everything from pop culture to science fiction to build its Horological Machines. Reminiscent of the HM3 Frog and HM9 Flow, the HM10 Bulldog is the tenth watch in the series and another intergalactic timekeeper reassembling a robotic animal. While MB&F; has historically been all about less-than-friendly animals, like a cyclops-chicken, luminous jellyfish, or giant spider, the HM10 is modelled on a domestic favourite (and perhaps also takes inspiration from the LM1). The design language of the HM10 is a familiar one as it borrows liberally from MB&F;’s past machines. Bulging eyes in the form of rotating displays take their cues from the HM3, while the suspended balance wheel under a high domed crystal is also found in the Legacy Machine series, and finally the mobile jaw that’s also a power reserve display brings to mind the vertical indicator on the LM1. An elaborate body It’s a complex-looking watch, so an explanation is in order. Available in either titanium, or red gold with titanium accents, the HM10 has a flat, elongated body with a protruding pair of collets for the crowns, as well as two domed sapphire crystals on the front and back to accommodate the time display and power reserve indicator respectively. At 54 mm by 45 mm, the HM10 does have a large presence – which is usually the point of a Horological Machine – but the overall shape, pa...

INTRODUCING: The Franck Muller Vanguard Classic that can take you from boardroom to beach Time+Tide
Franck Muller Mar 17, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Franck Muller Vanguard Classic that can take you from boardroom to beach

Fans of Franck Muller will know there is something in the Vanguard collection for everyone. With more than 30 different references in the current lineup, including chronographs, tourbillons and skeletonised movements, the independent watchmaker has ensured that no matter where you want to take your watch, there is a generously curved creation for you. Despite … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Franck Muller Vanguard Classic that can take you from boardroom to beach appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Crime or Sublime: Putting a NATO strap on a dress watch – the results Time+Tide
Mar 2, 2020

Crime or Sublime: Putting a NATO strap on a dress watch – the results

Last week, Nick Kenyon and Luke Benedictus got into a horological war of words over the rights and wrongs of the humble NATO strap. Luke took a defensive why-the-hell-not approach while Nick stuck to the purist’s line that some things must remain sacrosanct otherwise the whole of civilisation will go to pot. We then threw … ContinuedThe post Crime or Sublime: Putting a NATO strap on a dress watch – the results appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Daft Punk is not playing at our house. It’s better. HSNY is at our office to party. Time+Tide
Feb 10, 2020

Daft Punk is not playing at our house. It’s better. HSNY is at our office to party.

I don’t know about you, Australian watch lovers, but I’ve always looked lustfully, enviously and with more than just a faint sense of sadness at all the things the Horological Society of New York (HSNY) get up to over there. Somewhere. Beyond the sea. Not only in America, mind you. Wherever they go with their … ContinuedThe post Daft Punk is not playing at our house. It’s better. HSNY is at our office to party. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Pierre Peters Les Chétillons: One Of The World’s Great Champagnes You’ve Probably Never Heard Of Quill & Pad
Feb 6, 2020

Pierre Peters Les Chétillons: One Of The World’s Great Champagnes You’ve Probably Never Heard Of

If Ken Gargett were to tell you that he is looking at one of the great champagnes, that wouldn’t really narrow it down for you. If he said it was a blanc de blancs then you’d be able to get closer. And if he said it had become a cult favorite in recent years, you might think he is talking about Selosse, Agrapart, Collin, or one of the other emerging growers. The champagne he puts under the microscope today is actually from small(ish) grower Pierre Peters and it is the flagship, Les Chétillons. Find out what he thinks about it here!

Up Close: Ulysse Nardin Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel Feb 4, 2020

Up Close: Ulysse Nardin Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel

With the Freak being the undisputed flagship complication of Ulysse Nardin – as well as a historically important watch – many of the brand’s other technical accomplishments often go under the radar. One intriguing offering that hasn’t gotten much attention: the Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel. Despite the somewhat dull name, the Tourbillon Free Wheel is a compelling reinterpretation of a mystery clock – where the mechanics are artfully hidden and exposed for visual effect – that is both fascinating and exotic. The Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel with an aventurine dial While the base model of the Executive collection features a largely conventional, open-worked movement, the Tourbillon Free Wheel takes things a step further by elevating the crucial parts of the movement like the barrel, tourbillon regulator, and gear train for the power reserve. In fact, most of the components are “floating” – the movement boasts a flying tourbillon, a “flying” gear train and power reserve indicator, as well as a “floating” barrel. At the same time, the construction is inverted, with parts that are usually hidden sitting exposed, and vice versa. As a result, the tourbillon and power reserve display appear to operate in isolation, with no obvious connection to the rest of the movement. Floating and flying minimalism While much of the gearing is hidden underneath the dial – which doubles up as the base plate – most of the moving parts are “floating” –...

Romeo Y Julieta Maravillas 8 Cuban Cigars: Large Size, Medium Flavor, Small Value Quill & Pad
Jan 31, 2020

Romeo Y Julieta Maravillas 8 Cuban Cigars: Large Size, Medium Flavor, Small Value

If a friend dropped by for a chat and a drink and pulled out a couple of these whopper Romeo & Julieta Maravillas 8 Cuban cigars, Ken Gargett thinks you would have an enjoyable afternoon, but probably not think a lot about the cigars. He thought the one he smoked was fine, pleasant and consistent, but no fireworks. And then there's the elephant in the room: the price.

Forget the Rolex Daytona on Antiques Roadshow, here are three watches to stash in your safe now Time+Tide
Rolex Daytona Jan 29, 2020

Forget the Rolex Daytona on Antiques Roadshow, here are three watches to stash in your safe now

If you’re reading this, then chances are you’ve already seen the amazing video on America’s Antiques Roadshow of a US Air Force veteran and his mint Rolex Daytona Ref.6263. If not, stop reading this and watch the below video right now: I think we can all agree … this is a pretty staggering video. And it … ContinuedThe post Forget the Rolex Daytona on Antiques Roadshow, here are three watches to stash in your safe now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bulgari Octo L’Originale: With Enough Ice To Alleviate Climate Change And A Million-Dollar Price Tag To Match Quill & Pad
Bulgari Octo L’Originale Jan 13, 2020

Bulgari Octo L’Originale: With Enough Ice To Alleviate Climate Change And A Million-Dollar Price Tag To Match

Martin Green thinks that nearly any serious brand can put a truckload of diamonds on a watch and attach a phenomenal price tag to it. But he also believes that very few could create a watch like the Bulgari Octo L'Originale with its more than 50 carats of nearly flawless colorless diamonds. Find out why here.

Omega Introduces the Speedmaster Moonwatch 321 “Ed White” SJX Watches
Omega Introduces Jan 7, 2020

Omega Introduces the Speedmaster Moonwatch 321 “Ed White”

Having dropped enough hints – first the movement and then the platinum Speedmaster – that the launch is no longer a surprise, Omega has finally unveiled the watch many have been waiting for: the Speedmaster Moonwatch 321 in steel, a remake of the Speedmaster “Ed White”. Notably, the latest remake means that Omega now has a remake hall of fame, having reproduced almost all of the historically significant vintage Speedmaster models, namely the ref. 2915, ref. 2998, ref. 105.012 (sort of), the ref. 145.022 in 18k gold, and now, the ref. 105.003 “Ed White”. Worn by astronaut Ed White in 1965 when he became the first American to accomplish a space walk, during the Gemini 4 mission, the Speedmaster ST 105.003 has since been nicknamed after White, who unfortunately died not long after when a fire consumed the cabin of the Apollo 1 spacecraft in 1967. Reproduced faithfully Distinguished by its straight lugs, the “Ed White” has been replicated in fine form with the new Moonwatch 321. Omega gets an A for execution with the remake, though its score for creativity won’t be quite as high. The new Speedmaster is a dead ringer for the original, but executed in modern materials – plus faux-vintage Super-Luminova, naturally. Details exactly as on the original include the applied Omega logo and stepped dial The bezel insert, for instance, is a “dot over 90” like the original, but is rendered in robust ceramic with white enamel tachymetric markings, instead of the fra...