Revolution
Time Trial: Wei Koh Takes on the 2021 Tudor Black Bay Chrono
Having spent a few days with the 2021 Black Bay Chrono as his daily beater, Wei Koh gives us his take on the latest generation of Tudor’s beloved chronograph.
Results for WOSTEP (Watchmakers of Switzerland Training and Educational Program)
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Revolution
SJX Watches
Artisans de Genève Unveils the Submariner Moon Phase
A custom shop best known for its extensively reworking of popular sports watches – occasionally created in collaboration with celebrity sportsmen – Artisans de Genève has a diverse portfolio of work that range from the intriguing to the mystifying. Certainly one of its more intriguing timepieces is the Sea Shepherd Challenge, a Submariner with a moon phase display surrounded by much aventurine glass that was commissioned by the founder of the eponymous marine conservation group. Initial thoughts Aftermarket customisation of fashionable watches is common. It can often be merely opportunistic, with customisers taking advantage of the watchmaker’s well-established brand and design. Rarely are customised watches interesting in a technical sense. The Sea Shepherd Challenge is interesting, being a mechanical customisation rather than the change of colours that’s the usual formula applied to such watches. It incorporates an oversized moon phase display (driven by a mechanically simple, but elaborately-constructed mechanism going by this animation), along with an aventurine-glass dial and bezel insert. Add to that the added decoration to the movement, and the watch does have its appeal. The customisation alone costs about US$35,000 (and the client either provides the watch or purchases one), which is probably too much for the work done, but within reason given the benchmark prices of such customised watches. A mariner’s watch This customised Submariner was a request...
Time+Tide
Meet the nicest UFC fighter ever, with a surprisingly fancy Rolex
Anyone who follows the fight game knows that Georges St-Pierre is a legend. Not just for his remarkable UFC record of 26 wins against just 2 losses, but also because in a sport that is sometimes overtaken by trash-talking bravado, GSP is a gentleman in every sense of the word. He maintained a laser-like focus … ContinuedThe post Meet the nicest UFC fighter ever, with a surprisingly fancy Rolex appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Review: Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 White Gold – New Options for a well loved watch
Vacheron Constantin celebrates the 100th anniversary of the American 1921 this year by introducing two new white gold models.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: A return to elegance with the Longines Silver Arrow
The new Longines Silver Arrow constitutes a comeback for the functional steel dress watch, a watch that in its heyday would simply be a sporty everyday timepiece. It presents a reassuring throwback to the quieter times of the 1950s, a time when even half a day at the office would mean dressing up in a … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: A return to elegance with the Longines Silver Arrow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 Skeleton Review
Pros: Unlike previous models, Full skeleton on display – best one to date Bang for buck Skeleton watchBeautifully executed – Cleanly laid out dial and attention to detail on the bridges Overall Rating: 8.1/10 Value for money – 8/10Wearability – 8.5/10Design – 8/10Build Quality – 8/10 Cons: Some may miss the second handSome may not appreciate having no hour IndicatorsCaseback is fully blacked out, the rotor isn’t as clearly visible Raymond Weil’s latest skeleton watch comes in the form of the Freelancer 42mm Full Skeleton Calibre RW1212. Skeleton watches present a unique interpretation of watchmaking, where sometimes everything is removed down to the bare minimum to showcase nothing but just the movement and the time. There is something about a skeleton watch that just grabs attention. Whether it’s the human curiosity to want to know what goes on behind closed doors or whether it’s the fascination of seeing all the intricate pieces come together to create something complex yet beautiful, skeletonised timepieces can awaken the watch fanatic in all of us. This however does not mean that skeleton watches can always be so easy to read. Quite a common pitfall with skeletonised timepieces is that sometimes watchmakers get too caught up in the movement of the watch that they negate being able to read the time. This is mainly due to the fact that the hour indexes and hands can blend in with the movement, which can make it quite hard to read the dial at a ...
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The York & Front Burrard is an elegant take on military vintage
Eschewing the pretence of diving or sports, the pure military inspiration behind the new York & Front Burrard is pretty close to being the perfect functional tool watch. It’s a daily wearer with a distinctive style that comes in any colour you want, as long as it’s black or white. Sized at 38mm for textbook … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The York & Front Burrard is an elegant take on military vintage appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Louis Vuitton Tambour Street Diver: All Killer, No Filler?
The Louis Vuitton Tambour Street Diver is a very solid new diver’s watch from a brand focused on haute couture and whimsical timepieces more than practical tool watches. It's very good but Joshua Munchow isn't quite convinced that it's "all killer, no filler." He explains why here.
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Green Dial
Organised by the Automobile Club de Monaco (ACM), the Grand Prix de Monaco Historique is an annual classic-car race that traditionally takes place before the city’s Formula 1 Grand Prix. As the official timekeeper of the event, TAG Heuer is marking this year’s race with the Monaco Green Dial. A facelifted variant of its iconic square chronograph, the new Monaco features a gradient-green dial that’s a first for the Monaco, but an exceptionally common colour this year. Initial thoughts Arguably the iconic Heuer chronograph by virtue of its unmistakeable 1970s style, the Monaco was introduced in 1969 in honour of the Monaco Grand Prix. An unusual combination of a water-resistant, automatic chronograph with a square case, the Monaco remains the brand’s most recognisable timepiece. While the choice of a green dial may feel modish – dials in this shade seem endless this year even though it’s only April – it is nevertheless well executed. The smoked, metallic finish lends the watch a more nuanced look that separates it from most watches with a green dial. It might not be novel, but I’ve seen the new Monaco in the metal and it is one of the more attractive green dials that I’ve seen to date. While the remake of the original Monaco ref. 1133 “Steve McQueen” would be my pick from the Monaco lineup – I appreciate its historically-faithful design – the new Monaco in green is a great option for someone seeking a more contemporary watch that still possesse...
Time+Tide
The Buyers Checklist: 5 questions to ask yourself before buying a watch
When it comes to watches and collecting, you never stop learning. You cannot know everything and believing that you do can be a dangerous mindset. I am always eager to learn more about what I love, and while I think I’ve picked up a fair bit in my time as an enthusiast, collector, and now … ContinuedThe post The Buyers Checklist: 5 questions to ask yourself before buying a watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Introducing the TAG Heuer Monaco Green Dial
On the occasion of the prestigious Grand Prix de Monaco Historique 2021 edition, TAG Heuer is releasing a limited edition of their beloved Monaco: the TAG Heuer Monaco Green Dial
Quill & Pad
Seriously Playful Roland Iten R18 Superdriver Mechanical Belt Buckle: Because A Richard Mille Can’t Hold Up Your Pants (With Video)
Absolutely nobody needs an expensive high-end mechanical belt buckle built like an expensive high-end wristwatch. But then nobody needs an expensive high-end wristwatch either. For those with deep pockets and an itch that another Richard Mille, F.P. Journe, or Greubel Forsey timepiece can’t scratch, the Roland Iten R18 Superdriver might just do the trick.
Deployant
New: Richard Mille RM 21-01 Tourbillon Aerodyne – toughness to spare
ichard Mille continues their use of innovative space age materials to advance the envelope for toughness with the new RM 21-01 Tourbillon Aerodyne.
Revolution
Introducing the Ralph Lauren For The Rake ‘Bearfoot Negroni Bear’ Watch
Wei Koh tells us the story behind the Ralph Lauren For The Rake ‘Bearfoot Negroni Bear’ Watch and the The Rake & Revolution Shops that are soon to open at the Fari Islands in Maldives.
Time+Tide
Do you want a tourbillon for $100? Here’s how you can get one
The tourbillon is a complication that is as lusted after as it is storied. First patented in 1801 by the great Abraham-Louis Breguet, the tourbillon became an important technical feature of precision pocket watches for about a century, before the wristwatch was popularised after World War I. More recently, however, brands such as Richard Mille … ContinuedThe post Do you want a tourbillon for $100? Here’s how you can get one appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The T+T Team pick the best watches from Watches & Wonders 2021
Editor’s note: With Watches & Wonders finally in the rear-view mirror (phew!), we wanted to take a moment to reflect on the new watches that we’d seen and highlight some stand-out pieces. More specifically, we asked the T+T team to pick their favourites by selecting one watch if their budget was unlimited and another at … ContinuedThe post The T+T Team pick the best watches from Watches & Wonders 2021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Breaking News: Rolex “Zenith” Daytona Platinum Discovered to Have Turquoise Stone Dial
The headline lot at Sotheby’s upcoming Hong Kong watch auction, the Rolex “Zenith” Daytona in platinum is one of just five known. Already a million-dollar watch before, the Daytona just got that much more unusual with a fresh discovery: the dial is not a blue-lacquer “Stella” dial as previously believed, but it is actually turquoise mineral stone. According to Sam Hines, Sotheby’s head of watches, the discovery came about only recently when light fell on the watch just right, revealing a detail that was not obvious before: the sub-dials are of a slightly different colour and texture. So the dial and movement were removed from the platinum case for inspection. And a close look at the reverse of the dial revealed it to be mineral stone. “What appeared to be a classic ‘Stella’ dial is actually a natural hardstone turquoise dial with a lacquer coating on top,” explains Mr Hines, “The lacquer coating hides the natural grain that can normally be seen in any hardstone.” While a revelation, the mineral stone dial is an eminently logical feature. Only five platinum Daytonas with the Rolex cal. 4030 (based on the Zenith El Primero) were ever produced, reputedly at the behest of the late Patrick Heiniger, then the chief executive of Rolex. It is believed he gifted four examples to important business partners, and kept the final watch for himself. (One watch was gifted to a member of the family that owns a long-established Rolex store in Italy – we told the...
Revolution
Available in the Shop: Tudor Heritage Chronograph
Revolution looks back at the factors that have shaped the unique identity of Tudor’s popular sports watch.
Time+Tide
The Casio G-Shock smartwatch alternative is here with the G-Shock GSW-H1000
Can the Casio G-Shock GSW-H1000 cause an upset in the smartwatch market? For me, living in Norway where most of my mates are very outdoorsy (you try telling them you don’t like skiing), I’m already seeing a scary decline in mechanical watches. Everyday at the office for many translates to a naked wrist or an … ContinuedThe post The Casio G-Shock smartwatch alternative is here with the G-Shock GSW-H1000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43 Flyback Chronograph & Offshore 43 Flying Tourbillon Flyback Chronograph
Audemars Piguet has modernised its novelties across collections, introducing next generation movements and new technologies into their creations. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43 Collection is yet another example, with a more ergonomic and refined case as well as an all-new interchangeable strap system. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43 Collection is comprised … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43 Flyback Chronograph & Offshore 43 Flying Tourbillon Flyback Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: Is the Hegid Mirage the first interchangeable case system with a Swiss movement?
Variety is the spice of life – we all love to change things up. As a result, to many enthusiasts the mere idea of the “Exit Watch” or the “one watch for all occasions” is a frankly laughable concept. How many of us finally obtain that elusive grail only to start hankering for another piece … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Is the Hegid Mirage the first interchangeable case system with a Swiss movement? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Bell & Ross BR 01 Cyber Skull
Bell & Ross (B&R;) got its start in 1992 with no-nonsense watches – it produced watches for French military and police units like GIGN and RAID – but has since broadened its repertoire by tapping sci-fi and military concepts and applying them in a more creative manner, resulting in watches like last year’s that had a dial resembling a fighter jet’s head-up display. The BR 01 Cyber Skull draws on a theme that’s familiar to B&R;. A recurring element in B&R;’s line up for over a decade – its first skull watch arrived in 2009, well before such watches became a fad – the skull motif was inspired by military emblems, often those of airborne units. But while the theme is similar, the Cyber Skull is in many ways a culmination of the idea, having been improved technically and refined aesthetically. Best described as a sci-fi interpretation of the vanitas, the Cyber Skull has both its case and dial in black ceramic, while being powered by a proprietary movement featuring an automation that opens and closes the skull’s jaws when the movement is wound. Initial thoughts A complete package in terms of construction and technical finesse at its price point, the Cyber Skull is more accomplished than the typical B&R; watch (though it does cost more than the typical B&R;). Almost all components were developed for the watch, from the case to the dial to the movement. The Cyber Skull’s design is original, despite the skull being somewhat fashionable in watches today. Essential...
Deployant
Chopard scores again with the new L.U.C QF Jubilee
Compared to other brands, the L.U.C QF Jubilee does not shy from the competition, for its pedigree movement and finishing as well as technical competence. The 25 pieces rarity is also an attractive proposition.
Quill & Pad
My (Very Subjective) Top 5 Patek Philippe Timepieces Since 2005 – Reprise
A fellow journalist friend asked Elizabeth Doerr for a subjective listing of her “top” Patek Philippe watches of the twenty-first century. In her article, though, she cited only one of Elizabeth's top five choices. So here Elizabeth shares the full list. You may be surprised at some of her very subjective picks.
Deployant
Review: Bell & Ross shines in the dark with the new Vintage BR V2-94 FULL LUM
Bell & Ross Vintage BR V2-94 FULL LUM. We took the watch for a week's spin, and give you our hands-on comprehensive review.
Revolution
Omega’s 2021 Hits According to CEO Raynald Aeschlimann
Wei Koh discusses some of Omega’s most stellar launches for 2021, thus far, with CEO, Raynald Aeschlimann.
SJX Watches
Tissot Introduces the Heritage Navigator “Săgeata Orientului”
Announced at the end of 2020, the Heritage Navigator “Săgeata Orientului” is a limited edition made for Tissot’s distributor in Romania that recalls the glamorous era of early aviation. Based on Tissot’s world-time wristwatch that’s a remake of the vintage original of the 1950s, the Săgeata Orientului was conceived to mark the 100 years since the founding of CFRNA. Compagnie franco-roumaine de navigation aérienne in full, the CFRNA was a French-Romanian transcontinental airline that flew passengers and mail between Paris and Istanbul in the 1920s before merging into Air France. Translating as “arrow of the orient”, Săgeata Orientului was the original route flown by the CFRNA that included several stops on the way, including Bucharest. Despite taking 21 hours, the CFRNA flight was high-speed travel by the standards of the time, with the same trip by rail taking three days. Initial thoughts Although the Săgeata Orientului is essentially a colour variation of the Tissot world time – originally launched in 2013 for the brand’s 160th anniversary – it is smartly executed, and just as importantly, backed up by a rich historical tale evocative of the glamorous early decades of aviation. And being a Tissot, the Săgeata Orientului is naturally affordable. The US$1800-ish price tag makes it strong value, and an eminently compelling buy (which I first came to know of thanks to Monochrome). The only downside of the watch is inherent to the Heritage Navig...
Time+Tide
INTERVIEW: What we learnt from Nick English about Bremont’s grand plans for The Wing
Editor’s note: A few weeks after Bremont opened the doors of its impressive new watchmaking facilities, The Wing, our European editor Mike Christensen was treated to a guided tour from the British brand’s co-founder Nick English, to see what all the fuss is about. Gobsmacked, absolutely gobsmacked. It was like someone had transported me to … ContinuedThe post INTERVIEW: What we learnt from Nick English about Bremont’s grand plans for The Wing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Montblanc Introduces the Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon
One of the most interesting new releases from Montblanc at Watches & Wonders 2021 is the Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon, a technically impressive movement fused with a sparkly aventurine-glass dial. It’s equipped with a larger-than-usual balance wheel positioned above the dial, seemingly suspended but actually part of the tourbillon regulator. Initial thoughts Introduced at SIHH 2018, the Suspended Exo Tourbillon movement was most recently seen in an open-worked variant unveiled last year. Despite not being new in terms of mechanics, the new Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon is different enough from its predecessors – and still powered by the same fine movement. Very much living up to the Star Legacy model name, the aventurine-glass is restrained and modern, especially when combined with the white gold case, giving it a different look from the earlier models that were in rose gold. Typical of Montblanc’s higher-end watches made at the former Minerva manufacture in Villeret – as opposed to its more affordable timepieces, manufactured at the main facility in Le Locle – the Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon is remarkably well-finished. Worlds apart from Montblanc’s entry-level tourbillon in terms of movement decoration, the movement is also more traditionally finished than comparably priced alternatives such as the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon. However, because the movement was derived from the pocket watch calibres developed by M...
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Vacheron Constantin: the best 3 picks from this year’s novelties list
Top 3 picks from this year's VC novelties: Historiques American 1921, Traditionelle Split Seconds Chronograph and the Métiers d'Art Tribute to Explorers.