Quill & Pad
The New Strehler Sirna: It Shocked Me!
The Strehler Sirna is first off the block for Andreas Strehler's new brand. It's a time-only watch with an off-center seconds sub dial, clean chapter rings, and a hand finished dial.
4,387 articles · 20 videos found · page 125 of 147
Quill & Pad
The Strehler Sirna is first off the block for Andreas Strehler's new brand. It's a time-only watch with an off-center seconds sub dial, clean chapter rings, and a hand finished dial.
Time+Tide
The AVI-8 AV-4108 Dambuster pays tribute to the 80th anniversary of the Dambuster Raids of 1943. It’s a followup to their Dambuster chronograph which has nearly sold out. £17 from each sale will go directly to helping people through the Royal British Legion’s poppy appeal. It’s safe to say that AVI-8 as a brand are … ContinuedThe post AVI-8 mark the 80th anniversary of 617 Squadron and Operation Chastise with the AV-4108 Dambuster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Singer in partnership with GMt Publishings and the Fine Watch Club creates something completely new and creative that has not been done in the chronograph’s world before: The Flytrack Cocktail Timer.
SJX Watches
Breitling has redesigned the Avenger collection of big and bold pilot’s watches. First introduced in 2001 – the original is perhaps best known for being worn by Leonardo DiCaprio in Blood Diamond – the Avenger is now (very) slightly scaled down, kitted out with cleaner dials and better case detailing, and an in-house movement for the chronograph. Made up of the B01 Chronograph 44, GMT 44 and Automatic 42, the new Avenger collection still retains its signature size and style – the watches remain oversized, rugged, and functional, with chunky rotating bezels and 300 m of water resistance. Initial thoughts Breitling is known for is oversized pilot’s watches and the Avenger is exactly that. More substantial and modern than the old-school Navitimer, the Avenger is an unapologetically big, bold “tool” watch. The facelift has streamlined the design slightly, giving it a cleaner and more contemporary look, while retaining the key elements of the Avenger, including the all-matte brushed case and rotating bezel with rider tab. While there are technically three models in the family, the key one has always been the chronograph, and that is emphasised here with the Avenger chronograph with in-house Calibre B01. This is now the only chronograph in the line-up, while previously the collection included both ETA-powered and in-house versions. The Breitling B01 features a vertical clutch and column wheel Although the chronograph is the priciest in the collection, it is defi...
Deployant
Breitling updates their Avenger collection in an all new lineup with variants in time only automatic, GMT automatic and the B01 in-house chronograph.
Hodinkee
Complete with quintessential Basquiat motifs and references, Raymond Weil finds its latest inspiration for its signature Freelancer Chronograph in one of the most enigmatic artists of the 20th century.
SJX Watches
The Carrera line takes a luxurious turn with a new chronograph sporting a yellow gold case and matching yellow gold-plated dial, complemented by contrasting matte black sub-dials. The Carrera Chronograph “Glassbox” pays homage to a similar creation from the 1960s, the Carrera ref. 1158 CHN, which is known among collectors for its bold, all-gold design. Initial thoughts A precious metal sports watch often sparks debate about the relevance of the case material, particularly for brands not typically associated with pure luxury. However, TAG Heuer’s decision to execute its new Glassbox in the memorable “John Player Special” colour scheme of gold and black inspired by the ref. 1158 CHN is commendable. Moreover, it is a logical next step for TAG Heuer following the recent unveiling of the Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche, which is also available in rose gold. This fusion of heritage and refinement brings a unique and distinguished touch to the ordinarily functional Carrera. The result is an appealing chronograph with a hint of vintage luxury that effectively showcases the distinctive Glassbox case. The price tag for the gold Carrera is comparable to that of the rose gold Chronosprint x Porsche, which means the price is expected and appropriate though not quite a bargain. However, the Chronosprint boasts a more complex movement, making it a better value proposition – though the new Carrera is certainly more appealing in terms of design. The legendary gold Carrera 11...
Quill & Pad
2023 marks the thirtieth anniversary of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore collection. Here Alexey Kutkovoy look at the ROO Diver watches, perhaps the most impressive and important non-chronograph design in the Offshore collection.
SJX Watches
Following the anniversary edition with a silvered “sector” dial, Tokyo retailer Shellman announces another small-run limited edition with the Habring² Shellman 50th Anniversary “Black”. Available as a chronograph or time-only, the new edition is limited to just 15 watches each. It retains the dial design of the earlier edition, but now in a black “gilt” finish and matched with a stepped bezel. Initial thoughts Vintage-inspired “sector” dials aren’t novel at all, but the new Shellman duo, like the original edition, stand out for their details. At the same time, the fact that they are Habring² means the price-performance ratio is excellent. Amongst the details that make this appealing are the applied markers, gold-powder print, as well as the matched silvered hands for the chronograph. These reveal an attention to detail in the design – unsurprising since Shellman is a respected seller of vintage watches – proving the whole here is greater than the sum of the parts. Though these are slightly more expensive than the first edition – the price is up about 10% – both models now include a steel bracelet. Add to that the weak Japanese yen, and these are a greater value buy than the original pair. Vintage-inspired Created to mark Shellman’s 50th anniversary, the original silver dial model was a nod to the retailer’s 2017 Habring² limited edition – which was launched well before “sector” dials became a fad. The new pair continue with the same ...
Time+Tide
Adorned with touches of orange, Fratello and Fortis introduce a large flieger chronograph with a funky brown dial.The post The Fortis Flieger F-43 Bicompax Fratello Capsule Edition is the publication’s latest collaboration appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Big, bold, and brown. This new release has a lot to love if you're looking for a pilot's chronograph.
Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith SA, a Swiss watchmaker that traces its roots all the way back to 1865, is best known these days for its historic and hugely influential El Primero chronograph caliber, but the company can lay claim to many other horological milestones and accolades as well, some of which might be somewhat less than common knowledge. Did you know, for example, that Zenith has won more chronometry awards than any other watch brand? Or that it was once owned by an electronics company of the same name? Or that it is the only brand that’s allowed to put “Pilot” on a pilot’s watch dial? In this in-depth feature, I explore these and other aspects of Zenith’s fascinating history and also offer a primer on the manufacture’s modern watch collections. Georges-Favre-Jacot and Historic Integration Watchmaker Georges Favre-Jacot (above) was a mere 22 years of age when he founded the atelier that would become Zenith in Le Locle, Switzerland in 1865. Favre-Jacot, a contemporary of Swiss modern architecture pioneer Le Corbusier, embraced a similarly modern approach to making watches, taking his cues from the American firms Waltham and Elgin, which had found success by introducing mass production into the traditionally artisanal business. His company, originally called Georges Favre-Jacot & Co., was the first Swiss watch producer to bring the various disciplines of horology under one roof - as opposed to the more common établissage system that most watchmakers used at the time, which h...
Time+Tide
Cult fashion label Rowing Blazers teams up with Bamford and TAG Heuer on a very collegiate chronograph.The post The Rowing Blazers x Bamford TAG Heuer Carrera is peak preppy goodness appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Ever wondered what is the ideal Chronograph watch that you can share with your partner whose not into watches while satisfying the purist in you? Enter the latest iteration of Zenith Chronomaster Original with the sleek black tricolour dial. “Wow! May I wear it for the weekend?” That’s what she said! Eventually, the Zenith wasRead More
SJX Watches
Following the release of the 1970s diver reissue and a solar chronograph inspired by a 1990s design, Seiko has reintroduced another historical model as the Prospex Land Mechanical GMT Limited Edition SPB411. This remake draws inspiration from the Navigator Timer from 1968, the brand’s first dual time zone watch with a 24-hour rotating bezel. Now it’s been given a modern update with a new calibre and tweaks to the dial design while retaining the retro tonneau-shaped case. Initial thoughts The Navigator Timer is not quite as famous as its diving or chronograph counterparts, but still an important vintage “tool” watch amongst vintage Seikos. The Japanese brand has executed its long-awaited revival admirably, offering a contemporary interpretation with a modern movement while maintaining the essence of its original design. It’s worth noting that this reissue should be more accurately described as a dual time zone watch with an independently adjustable 24-hour hand, rather than a genuine GMT with an adjustable local-time hour hand, a feature usually seen in higher-end Grand Seiko models. This distinction means that setting the watch for different time zones involves a few extra steps. However, given its price point, this compromise remains entirely reasonable. Priced at US$1,600, it’s a US$100 increase from the standard Prospex Diver’s GMT. Despite this modest cost bump, opting for this limited edition still offers great value. That said, collectors might be less...
Time+Tide
Funky lugs and a German naval pilot tie-in bring a breath of fresh air to this large-and-in-charge chronograph.The post The Hanhart Primus Fly Navy brings back articulating lugs and imposing dimensions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
MAEN Watches has relaunched their vintage inspired Skymaster 38 chronograph over the weekend, adding three new updated references to the collection, including a surprising limited edition. The Skymaster feels like a watch right in MAEN’s wheelhouse: a sports watch with an aesthetic that’s clearly inspired by the past, but executed at an incredibly high level with a surprising level of detail, all at a price point that makes these watches tough to ignore. I spent some time recently with MAEN’s Brooklyn 36 reference, an old school triple calendar, and was pleasantly surprised at the level of refinement on a watch that comes in at well under $1,000. The Skymaster, now in a MKIII version, contains many similar small details. There are two big changes with this third edition of the Skymaster 38. First, the watch now runs on the new Sellita SW510Mb manually wound movement, and the case has gone through a series of little adjustments to properly house it. Previous versions of the Skymaster used automatic movements, so the inclusion of a manually wound caliber here represents a significant change, and really plays into the heritage angle of a release like this. Secondly, in addition to offering a 12 hour bezel, MAEN is now making the Skymaster with an optional tachymeter bezel as well. The more prominent tachymeter bezel changes the appearance of the Skymaster dramatically, and should prove popular with collectors who are after a more traditionally styled racing chronograp...
Time+Tide
Longines present a new iteration of the Spirit Flyback chronograph with a grade 5 titanium case and red dial accents.The post The new Longines Spirit Flyback Titanium addresses a point of contention within the collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Collective Horology, the private watch club/independent brand retailer/producer of thoughtful limited editions, is back with their latest release in an ongoing series of collaborations. This time, they’re working with Montblanc, tapping into the brand’s association with the historic Minerva manufacture, maker of some of the most important chronograph calibers in the history of watchmaking. The 1858 Minerva Monopusher Chronograph “Blue Arrow” P.05 is a high end “What if…?” hypothetical come to life, and a great showcase for a truly special movement. As with all Collective limited editions, this one is something more than a reissue or a tweaked colorway. It exists to tell a specific story about the brand in a way that can often only be done from the outside. According to Collective, the seed of inspiration for the P.05 came from Eric Wind, or more specifically a watch in his case at the 2022 Windup Watch Fair. That year, Eric brought a Minerva stopwatch to the show, and it reminded Collective founders Gabe Reilly and Asher Rapkin of Minerva’s sporting roots, opening up a series of entirely new design possibilities. The 1858 Monopusher Chronograph that Collective and Montblanc came up with drew on the sportier design cues from that stopwatch, including the colors, finishing techniques, and the case material (robust stainless steel, of course). The end result is a chronograph that has many key vintage inspired design elements that are core to Montblanc and Mi...
SJX Watches
Having already launched the Luminor Chrono Carbotech as the PAM01419 Navy Seals limited edition, Panerai is now adding it to the regular production line-up as the Luminor Chrono Carbotech PAM01219. Featuring the same carbon composite case and ETA-based P.9200 movement, the PAM01219 has a restrained, functional dial with blue accents. Initial thoughts The PAM01219 is a new version of the ETA-powered Panerai chronograph, so while it’s nothing novel technically, it is appealing for the no-frills design and lightweight carbon composite case. Prior versions of this chronograph were either less interesting, like the base model PAM01109 in steel, or over designed, like the PAM01419 Navy Seals edition with its sniper crosshair sub-dials. Stylistically, the PAM01219 is clear, clean, and free of superfluous elements. However, the PAM01219 is too expensive. It’s priced at about US$17,000, which is pricey any way you slice it, especially since most watches with the same movement from rival brands cost less (and much less in the case of the Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono). At the same time, Panerai’s own catalogue includes the PAM00335 that has a ceramic case and in-house movement boasting an eight-day movement and mono-pusher chronograph, which makes it comparatively better value at just over US$20,000. Large, lightweight, and ETA The PAM01219 is classic Panerai in style with a clean dial that is a key part of its appeal. The dial is also symmetrical with a 30-minute chronograph count...
Deployant
We spent a week on a business trip and immediately fell in love with the Bell & Ross BR05 Chronograph A523 Alpine F1 watch.
Time+Tide
Switzerland's no-bullshit, fan-favourite microbrand returns with a sporty new edition of their NB24 chronograph.The post CODE41 NB24 Stratom appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
The world is a large, mysterious place and there are some facts about it that you simply can’t wrap your head around. Did you know that Japan enjoys the highest snowfall anywhere in the world, or that the word geoduck is pronounced ‘gooey-duck’? Or that there has never been a mechanical Grand Seiko chronograph, thatRead More
Worn & Wound
This isn’t exactly breaking news, but Grand Seiko releases a lot of watches. Over the last few years, during a period of growth that those of us who were fans of the brand before they split off from Seiko could only have dreamed of, they’ve even been accused of spinning their wheels somewhat, releasing endless variants of variants, in a sea of interchangeable colors and case shapes. I think a case can probably be made that the collection could use some refining, and that fewer special editions might do the brand some good. But at the same time, I love that they give customers options. I think about a new, first time Grand Seiko buyer walking into a boutique and being able to choose from a selection of watches that is basically unmatched, getting exactly what they want, or pretty close to it in any case. One potential middle ground between a sudden halt to novelties and placing renewed attention on core models and continuing to move down the path they’re on currently is a release like the new SBGJ273, a dressy GMT with one of the brand’s best movements, and a dial that has proven to be an elusive fan favorite. Before we get into the new watch, it’s worth examining one from a few years ago, the SBGH269. This watch, released in the fall of 2019 as a limited edition of 900, was meant to evoke the changing color of fall leaves with its red dial. Furthermore, the pattern on the dial, modeled after wood paneled floors, was completely unique to this reference. The comb...
Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche Editions celebrate the 60th anniversary for both brands with a new chronograph calibre mimicking the acceleration of the first 911.The post TAG Heuer Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche Editions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
New Tissot PRX Digital is inspired by a 1977 Tissot design Offered in both 35mm and 40mm sizes Backlit positive digital display with dual time zone, day-date, chronograph, timer, and alarm functions The Tissot PRX was a massive hit upon its introduction in 2021, and it has since expanded with various dial colours, metal finishes, … ContinuedThe post The new Tissot PRX Digital looks back to a watch from 1977 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Discover the Montblanc Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph, a tribute to the inventor of the first chronograph. Learn about its design, movement, and features.
Worn & Wound
When Tudor began teasing a new release over the summer, paired with a countdown clock planted in the wake of a passing boat, speculation quickly ended up in the usual places. A new steel BB58? A GMT Pelagos? Perhaps a regatta timer chronograph? As usual, these guesses ended up off the mark, with Tudor instead revealing a new pair of FXD watches made in conjunction with the Alinghi Red Bull Racing team. Along with them, a look at some wholly new features that will undoubtedly spur more predictions about what’s to come. After reviewing the FXD upon its launch in 2021, I’ve grown quite fond of the platform, as I often profess on the Worn & Wound podcast, but how well does it hold up in a different trim? The FXD is a watch that works better in person and on the wrist than it does on paper. It’s large and relatively flat stature that touts a lug to lug measurement north of 50mm thanks to a fixed lug design meaning only passthrough straps can be used. But it’s more than all that on the wrist. It wears slim and the widest bit of the lug is under a strap, so while it’s not as easy going as something like the Pelagos 39, it’s perfectly easy to get along with overall. On top of that, it’s got one of the most low-key interesting personalities of any of the mainline dive watches out there. Additionally, after having completed my open water dive certification with the FXD on my wrist every step of the way, I can attest to its qualities under the surface, as well (more on ...
Worn & Wound
I will always have a soft spot for Archimede. Fun fact: an Archimede chronograph was the first video review I ever shot for Worn & Wound. This has always been a brand that offers a noticeably higher quality product than many of its competitors within its price point, largely riding on the strength of the incredibly well machined Ickler cases. Now, for the brand’s 20th anniversary, they’ve issued a limited run of their popular Outdoor Protect sports watch with a hardened DLC case and a small Easter egg that drives home the “outdoor” theme of the hybrid sports/field watch. While Archimede is known primarily for their traditional pilot watches, the Outdoor line veers into a style more in line with funky sports watches from the 1970s. The case has a lugless design and gentle curves, and is one of those designs that just looks like it’s going to be comfortable when you get it on your wrist. Over the years, Archimede has updated the Outdoor in various ways, offering new case sizes, and adding a chronograph complication, but the basic gist of the watch has always been simple, sporty legibility with just a little bit of 1970s funk. The “Outdoor” moniker underscores the watch’s durability and the intention behind it: to be used as part of an active lifestyle. They didn’t call it the “Office” for a reason. For the new limited run of Outdoor Protects seen here, Archimede has sand blasted the case, which measures 39mm, with a black DLC coating that gives the ...
Time+Tide
If you're looking for an affordable dressy chronograph for a small wrist, you can't go wrong with the 36.5mm Bicompax 003 from Baltic.The post Why the new Baltic Bicompax 003 Salmon hardly left my wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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