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Results for The COMEX Submariner Story

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The COMEX Submariner Story Rolex

French saturation-diving company COMEX (1961) and Rolex partnership 1967 onward. Drove the joint Rolex/Doxa invention of the Helium Escape Valve.
#TBT A Black-Dialed Solitaire - An Excelsior Park “Olimpico” Chronograph With A Pulsation Track Fratello
Girard-Perregaux Mar 14, 2024

#TBT A Black-Dialed Solitaire - An Excelsior Park “Olimpico” Chronograph With A Pulsation Track

Excelsior Park holds quite a special place in watchmaking history. It was a fine-quality watch manufacturer, but the company’s name remains unknown to many today. The reason is simple: EP mostly delivered cases and movements to other familiar watch brands, including Zenith, Girard-Perregaux, and Gallet. Applying the rule of thumb when randomly browsing vintage watch […] Visit #TBT A Black-Dialed Solitaire - An Excelsior Park “Olimpico” Chronograph With A Pulsation Track to read the full article.

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William Wood’s Fire Exit Watch is a Truly Original Take on a Traditional Calendar Worn & Wound
Mar 14, 2024

William Wood’s Fire Exit Watch is a Truly Original Take on a Traditional Calendar

I have a complicated relationship with Day displays. So often, they’re crammed onto the dial, take up too much space, they don’t add much to the functionality of a watch - I frequently don’t know the date, I very rarely don’t know what day of the week it is - and throw everything out of balance. My… distaste for day-of-the-week displays (and frankly the complication as a whole) is why I prefer the Datejust to the Day-Date and have never kept an SKX for longer than a few months. Still, every so often, some brand comes along and does something so clever I can’t ignore it. Here, with the new Fire Exit Watch from William Wood Watches, we find clever in full supply. Those familiar with William Wood Watches will know that the brand draws heavy inspiration from the history (and materials) of firefighting, and the brand supports a number of firefighting charities. While most William Wood Watches draw their firefighting inspiration from firefighters and their equipment, the Fire Exit Watch draws from an oft-overlooked piece of fire safety gear, the emergency exit sign. Specifically, the Fire Exit Watch is based on the globally ubiquitous ISO standard (yes, they standardize more than dive watches!) green “Fire Exit Man” signs. Those of us who spend most of our time in the United States may be shocked to discover that, as with the metric system, most of the rest of the world has gotten on board with a single style of exit sign. With the Fire Exit Watch, William W...

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Fratello Talks: Watch Marketing - Past, Present, And Future Fratello
Mar 14, 2024

Fratello Talks: Watch Marketing - Past, Present, And Future

Welcome to Fratello Talks. This week, you join your host Nacho alongside RJ and Lex to discuss the evolution of watch marketing. The idea of marketing watches has been around since selling them became a lucrative endeavor. Since then, we have seen the watch industry’s efforts take many different forms, from posters to print ads, […] Visit Fratello Talks: Watch Marketing - Past, Present, And Future to read the full article.

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Our Favorite Watches Under $1,000 Worn & Wound
Mar 13, 2024

Our Favorite Watches Under $1,000

We’re less than a month from Watches & Wonders, which is a period of time when the watch world is focused mostly on high end luxury watches, often with eye watering price tags and a built-in inaccessibility. Of course, we enjoy discussing and covering those watches, but ahead of that time of year when things get well and truly crazy in the watch world, we thought we’d take a step back and ask our contributors to pick their favorite watches at a more accessible and welcoming price point. For under $1,000, there’s a ton of variety out there, and a curious watch collector can have just about any style of watch they want, from sports watches of all stripes, to contemporary design focused pieces, and even iconic vintage staples. The choices below reflect the enormous breadth of affordable watches available today, and they only scratch the surface. Let us know what you’d pick for $1,000 in the comments below.  Zach Kazan For $1,000, watch collectors have a lot to choose from. The first task, I think, is deciding on what lane you want to travel in. Sports watch? Something more casual? Quartz or mechanical? Big brand or small? Vintage, vintage inspired, or totally contemporary? All of these things are possible, and represent open questions at $1,000 or less, which is exciting, and speaks to the overall health of the hobby at an affordable level. There are myriad ways to get into the watch world, or scratch an affordable itch regardless of how experienced you are.  Person...

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First Look – Bulgari Drops a new Octo Finissimo Automatic Sketch Dial for its 140th Anniversary Monochrome
Bulgari Drops Mar 13, 2024

First Look – Bulgari Drops a new Octo Finissimo Automatic Sketch Dial for its 140th Anniversary

Introduced over 10 years ago (time flies…), Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo collection has become one of the most successful sagas in recent watchmaking history. Not only did these watches break one record for thinness after another, but they also redefined the concept of the ultra-thin watch with a contemporary design and a casual attire. For the […]

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Interview – Karl-Friedrich Scheufele of Chopard on Integrated Production, Future Generations and Sustainability Monochrome
Chopard Mar 13, 2024

Interview – Karl-Friedrich Scheufele of Chopard on Integrated Production, Future Generations and Sustainability

The roots of Chopard trace back to 1860 when Louis Ulysse Chopard founded his company in Sonvilier, Switzerland. The Scheufele family took over the company in the 1960s. Under their stewardship, Chopard experienced a renaissance and evolved from a traditional watchmaking company into a globally renowned luxury brand. Chopard is a vertically integrated, family-owned company, […]

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Up Close: Louis Vuitton Voyager Flying Tourbillon Plique-à-Jour SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Voyager Flying Tourbillon Plique-à-Jour Mar 13, 2024

Up Close: Louis Vuitton Voyager Flying Tourbillon Plique-à-Jour

A watch that exemplifies the ambitious vertical integration of Louis Vuitton’s watch division, the Voyager Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève Plique-à-Jour combines a skeleton tourbillon movement with a plique-à-jour enamel dial. Transparent and akin to stained glass, plique-à-jour enamel is rare in watchmaking, with only a handful of brands having accomplished it. But this specific form on the Voyager tourbillon, which goes without any backing under the dial, is even more uncommon. Because there is no base for the dial, the transparency of both the dial and the movement is maximised. Initial thoughts The original version of this watch, essentially identical but without the enamel dial, was launched in 2016. Louis Vuitton didn’t get much attention as a watchmaker then, though I liked the watch, particularly the slim profile and open-worked movement made by La Fabrique du Temps (LFT). The quality of the watch indicated Louis Vuitton was going places as a watch brand. Louis Vuitton has come a long way since then as a watchmaker. It now boasts several automaton wristwatches, the Rexhep Rexhepi RR01 collaboration, and its own prize for independent watchmakers. Appropriately enough, the Voyager tourbillon has been enhanced, reflecting the substantial expansion and development of LFT since 2016. The movement, dial, and case are all made in-house at LFT, reflecting Louis Vuitton’s impressive manufacture that now rivals some of the most prominent names in haute horlog...

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Louis Vuitton’s High Watchmaking Novelties 2024 With Michel Navas, La Fabrique Du Temps LV Revolution
Louis Vuitton s High Watchmaking Novelties Mar 13, 2024

Louis Vuitton’s High Watchmaking Novelties 2024 With Michel Navas, La Fabrique Du Temps LV

Join Wei, Eleonor, and Michel Navas, Co-founder and Master Watchmaker of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, as they explore the brand’s latest high watchmaking novelties of 2024. For over two decades, Louis Vuitton has been steadfast in its pursuit of excellence in watchmaking-an endeavor steeped in both tradition and innovation. With a commitment to […]

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Whatever Happened To Watch Fans’ Mechanical Fascination? - Make Complications Great Again Fratello
Tudor Black Bay But it’s Mar 13, 2024

Whatever Happened To Watch Fans’ Mechanical Fascination? - Make Complications Great Again

We seem to be living in a watch era in which people lose their marbles over a faded bezel - something that just happens - while man-made tour de forces like a gyro tourbillon seem to be brushed aside. I blame the retro trend, which gave us watches like the Tudor Black Bay. But it’s […] Visit Whatever Happened To Watch Fans’ Mechanical Fascination? - Make Complications Great Again to read the full article.

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Recommendations for Building a Watch Collection for £5,000/$6,000 Featuring Tudor, Tissot, Oris, and a G-Shock Quill & Pad
Tissot Oris Mar 13, 2024

Recommendations for Building a Watch Collection for £5,000/$6,000 Featuring Tudor, Tissot, Oris, and a G-Shock

If Raman Kalra was to hypothetically start building his watch collection all over again, this is what it would look like if he had £5,000/$6,000 to spend. He hasn't selected a watch from each category (diver, chronograph etc.), but rather watches he likes, and believes would cover different scenarios such as the office, casual weekend wear, and the beach.

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Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Mar 12, 2024

Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Guide

In their relatively short tenure on the international market, Seiko’s Presage “Cocktail Time” watches have already established themselves in the minds of many enthusiasts as one of the watch industry’s very best value prospects in the realm of automatic dress watches - boasting in-house movements, high-end finishing, and the colorful dials that lend them their nicknames, each inspired by concoctions from Japan’s world-famous high-end cocktail bars. Here is a guide to the Seiko “Cocktail Time,” with highlights and milestones from the modern collection. Happy Hour in Japan Seiko served up the first round of its “Cocktail Time” watches exclusively to customers in Japan. The first of these  “JDM” (Japan Domestic Market) models debuted in 2010 and carried the Reference number SARB065. Now discontinued (and accordingly in high demand by collectors), this watch (above) and its siblings, the SARB066 and SARB068, featured 40mm cases in stainless steel, which were fairly thick at 13.3mm high. The movement inside the cases was Seiko’s Caliber 6R15, with bidirectional automatic winding, a 50-hour power reserve, and an impressive resistance to magnetic fields of 4,800 A/m.  Unlike the many Presage models that followed, the originals were not nicknamed after specific cocktail concoctions but simply for different styles: the SARB065 with its ice-blue dial was “Cool,” the SARB066 with a pale, cream-colored dial was “Dry,” and the reddish brown dial of t...

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Back To Basics: Chronometers - What Are They, And Why Should You Care? Fratello
Mar 12, 2024

Back To Basics: Chronometers - What Are They, And Why Should You Care?

In this installment of Back to Basics, we’ll dive into chronometers. What does this term mean, and why should it be relevant to you? If you are (relatively) new to the watch hobby, the word “chronometer” may be somewhat confusing. Technically, any object that measures (meter) time (chrono) is a chronometer, right? Then why do […] Visit Back To Basics: Chronometers - What Are They, And Why Should You Care? to read the full article.

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Fratello On Air: Brands Everyone Should Have In Their Collections Fratello
Mar 12, 2024

Fratello On Air: Brands Everyone Should Have In Their Collections

We’re back with another episode of Fratello On Air, and this week, we discuss watches from brands that everyone should own at some point on their collecting journey. Our ideas come across as more of a suggestion than an edict, though. We also touch on several other watch-related topics before the main event. Enjoy the show! […] Visit Fratello On Air: Brands Everyone Should Have In Their Collections to read the full article.

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Vintage Watches: An Omega 30T2 With A Sterling Silver Case Fratello
Omega 30T2 Mar 11, 2024

Vintage Watches: An Omega 30T2 With A Sterling Silver Case

Today, we’ll take a closer look at a fascinating watch that I recently purchased at auction. As we’ll see, the watch brings together several notable details that separate it from other 30T2 models from the period. It was a gamble, but it has turned out to be a rewarding one thus far. I don’t often […] Visit Vintage Watches: An Omega 30T2 With A Sterling Silver Case to read the full article.

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Minase Debuts a DLC Coated Limited Edition Horizon Worn & Wound
Seiko or “G-SHOCK.” It’s Mar 11, 2024

Minase Debuts a DLC Coated Limited Edition Horizon

Of all the countries with prominent watchmaking industries, it’s possible that Japan’s is least understood. There’s a mythology around Swiss, German, and even American watchmaking that transcends any particular brand, but for many “Japanese watchmaking” is akin to saying “Seiko” or “G-SHOCK.” It’s unfair, for sure, as there are many interesting brands in the independent space making a name for themselves in Japan, and while it can be argued that Japanese brands share a certain sensibility when it comes to craftsmanship and quality, the aesthetc and design range is incredibly wide. Minase is one of my favorite examples of a brand that really illustrates this concept, as there’s a huge range within their own catalog, and they very much do their own thing while adhering to certain Japanese design and craft principles. Compare their execution of urushi lacquered dials to Seiko and you’ll begin to get the idea. Their newest release, the limited edition Horizon GEN DLC. The Horizon is a classic Minase case shape with an elongated, rectangular profile. The design is inspired by the horizon line stretching over the sea, which you really pick up in the subtle curves of the midcase. Like all Minase cases, however, this one is deceptively complex, with plenty of facets and other flourishes that make it visually interesting and appealing from every angle. The curve of the crystal, for instance, follows the curve of the case, and the case and bracelet appear on ...

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Worn & Wound
Hublot Mar 9, 2024

Arken Launches their First Limited Edition for British Watchmakers’ Day

As an avid lover of tool watches, there aren’t many brands that have caught my attention in the last few years quite like Arken. Part of the explosion of small independent watch brands coming out of the UK, Arken has been on my mind since the release of their first watch, the Instrumentum, in 2021. The Instrumentum was followed up by the Alterum last year and now Arken is releasing their first-ever limited edition; a new variant of the Alterum inspired by the Year of the Dragon - a popular source of inspiration over the last few months with everyone from Hublot to JLC getting in on the action. In technical terms, the Alterum Year of the Dragon is the same watch we were introduced to last year, and which is now starting to pop up on people’s wrists as delivery gets underway. The Year of the Dragon comes in the same 200m water-resistant 40mm grade 2 titanium case and is equipped with the same modified Miyota 9015 movement as the standard production variant (all of which you can read more about in Thomas Calara’s post introducing the watch back in June). The dial of the Year of the Dragon is where the differences between this limited edition and the standard model start to show themselves. The Year of the Dragon opts to replace the frosted black and anthracite dials of the standard release with a more exciting deep red, three-dimensional, textured, “blasted dragon scale” motif. I’ve never seen a dial quite like this before, and while the name alone would be enou...

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New: OMEGA Launches New Speedmaster Moonwatch With Lacquered White Dial Deployant
Omega Launches New Speedmaster Moonwatch Mar 9, 2024

New: OMEGA Launches New Speedmaster Moonwatch With Lacquered White Dial

The new Speedmaster Moonwatch with lacquered white dial is a stunning addition to the iconic collection. Speedmaster Professional in white dials are usually the most coveted - consider the Snoopies, and Alaska models. A new regular production model in white dial will likely be a hit among collectors, who want a white dial Speedy for that special model look.

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Annual Calendars Are Goldilocks Complications: Not Too Hot, Not Too Cold, Just Right Quill & Pad
Mar 9, 2024

Annual Calendars Are Goldilocks Complications: Not Too Hot, Not Too Cold, Just Right

Sometimes perpetual calendars are too complicated but a simple calendar just doesn't cut it anymore because nearly half the months have less than 31 days, making it five adjustments a year too many for some. But don’t fret, there is a middle ground between the most basic calendar watches and complex perpetual calendars: the annual calendar automatically adjusts for each month with 30 or 31 days, meaning just one adjustment per year for the owner in February. Here's a brief history of the complication.

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