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Worn & Wound

Rolex all Apr 8, 2023

Watches, Stories, & Gear: The Watches of Hit HBO Series ‘Succession’, Two More Paul Newman Daytonas Discovered, The A-Tech Multi-Tool Keychain, & More

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Esquire Talking Watches With Succession’s Prop Master Monica Jacobs Via Esquire In one of the most recent Succession episodes, hearing Kendall Roy describe their new media-venture called The Hundred as, “Substack meets Masterclass meets the Economist meets the New Yorker.” remains as one of the many chuckle-worthy lines we’ve heard during this season thus far. Almost every character is capable of delivering such a line, especially Roman Roy, Tom Wambsgans and Greg Hirsch. Especially Greg. But in addition to the witty writing and awesome plot, as watch enthusiasts, it’s hard not to pay attention to what’s on the wrists of our favorite characters. Via Esquire In a recent Esquire interview, Prop Master Monica Jacobs spills all the details as to how some of these very particular, highly-specific watches made their way onto the show. The interview also digs into how each watch is chosen and how the character’s personality is reflected upon the watch they wear. For example, why does Roman Roy wear Rolex all the time, and what’s with Logan Roy sticking wi...

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Apr 8, 2023

Why watch puns tick me off

In the world of horological journalism, where centuries-old companies lord over a multi-billion dollar industry and push the boundaries of mechanical engineering and art simultaneously, it’s pretty much considered a crime to write a pun into your articles. If you ask me, it’s a total waste of time. Most writers would never stoop that low, … ContinuedThe post Why watch puns tick me off appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Casio n Apr 8, 2023

Flight club: Fly first class with these 5 upscale pilot’s chronographs

During the golden age of air travel, all seats on a plane were pretty much first-class seats. At the dawn of intercontinental flight, travellers dressed for the occasion, and the experience was much more genteel, even elegant, especially when compared with today’s post-apocalyptic hellscape. Sadly, modern flying has become a soul-crushing exercise, with stressed-out travellers … ContinuedThe post Flight club: Fly first class with these 5 upscale pilot’s chronographs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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SJX Watches

Louis Erard stands out Apr 7, 2023

SJX W&W; Highlights - Value Propositions and The Not-Quite

Maybe unsurprising given the state of the industry – watchmakers enjoyed record sales in 2022 – value buys were few at Watches & Wonders (W&W;) this year. Amongst the independent watchmakers, just two stood out for being value buys, the Kudoke 3 and Urwerk UR-102 “Reloaded” – both of which I covered in my highlights amongst the indies. Not quite an independent watchmaker but niche nonetheless, Louis Erard stands out for the Excellence Marqueterie. Probably the best value amongst its many limited editions, the Excellence Marqueterie brings the art of wood marquetry to a previously unheard of price segment. Although it costs only about US$4,000, the Excellence Marqueterie features a dial decorated with tiny pieces of exotic wood that have been sawn and applied by hand to form an M.C. Escher-like pattern. The Excellence Marqueterie. Image – Louis Erard Like most other niche brands, Louis Erard exhibited outside the halls of W&W;, where all of the establishment brands were located. Amongst the big names, only Tudor offered substantial value with its new models, although that is not news in itself since value is a fundamental characteristic of the brand. (Though it is arguable that Rolex offers strong value in all its models regardless of price, but certainly not as much as Tudor.) Two watches stood out amongst Tudor’s 2023 line-up. One is the Black Bay 54, a watch clearly conceived by aficionados with an eye for detail. Just 37 mm in diameter, it resembles a vinta...

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SJX Watches

Patek Philippe Apr 7, 2023

SJX W&W; Highlights - Independent Watchmaking

As is often the case when the wider industry is doing well, independent watchmaking is on fire. This was illustrated by the numerous and diverse exhibitors, many of them brand-new entrants, showing their wares alongside Watches & Wonders in Geneva. But as is often the case when independent watchmaking is on fire, quantity far exceeded quality, and the good and great were rare. Not wanting to go up against brands like Rolex and Patek Philippe for eyeballs (and also because most independent marques now enjoy long, long waitlists), many watchmakers didn’t launch anything new. Some talented watchmakers are merely making slow but steady progress, like Yosuke Sekiguchi, the Japanese watchmaker based in Switzerland who presented the final version of his Primevère along with new dial variants for the same. One of the best new launches is not really a new model, but it’s good enough it deserves a top spot on the list. The F.P. Journe FFC is the regular production version of the unique FFC Blue made for charity auction Only Watch in 2021. Indicating the time with a five-fingered hand, the time display is simple but driven by a clever and complex movement, illustrating the brilliance of its creator. Granted it costs CHF820,000 before taxes, which is probably too much even considering the complication. But according to Mr Journe, the movement is complex enough that it can only be assembled and adjusted by a watchmaker who is otherwise working on the Astronomic grand complication....

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Bulova Apr 6, 2023

The Breadth of Bulova: A Guide to American Icons

When iconic American watchmaking brands are brought up, it’s impossible not to mention Bulova. Born out of the mind of Joseph Bulova in 1875, the brand has been making quality timepieces for nearly one and a half centuries, with the brand’s 150th anniversary coming up soon. When a brand gets their start so early in the grand scheme of American history, you can trace the watches back to specific periods of innovation and design language. Today, we’re exploring the breadth of Bulova by highlighting some of their most iconic models that are still made today. Whether you want to learn about WWII watches from the 1940s, space-worn watches of the 1960s, brightly-colored dive watches of the 1970s, or technology from the dawn of quartz watches, Bulova has something to pique your interest. Let’s take a closer look at some modern interpretations of some of Bulova’s most recognizable timepieces. The post The Breadth of Bulova: A Guide to American Icons appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Luminox Apr 6, 2023

A Picture of Good Stealth: Luminox Unveils the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic

When it comes to military watches, my mind draws a bold red line between two distinct types. First, there’s the batch that originates from the vintage kin. You know, the Dirty Dozen field watch, the stoic flieger, and of course the quintessential stainless steel diver. Then there’s the modern and robust digital watch equipped with the innovative case material and a slew of multi-functions that you’d need more than two hands to count. But the happy medium between the two has always been within Luminox, a brand that has fostered and maintained a partnership with the U.S. Navy SEALs for three decades and counting. The latest addition to the Navy SEAL Luminox collection blends together a new case material and their patented Luminox Light Technology, while still keeping the spirit of analog time – it’s called the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic inspired by the Frogmen’s grind, grit, and durability. The Master Carbon SEAL Automatic utilizes a lightweight and rugged case made out of CARBONOX+. This forward-looking material boasts ultra-strong and weatherproof properties that in weight, equates to three times lighter than titanium. The unique feature that comes along with the “+” in the CARBONOX+ name is its stealthy gray tint which also displays the fingerprint-esque carbon fiber pattern that is individual to each watch. Except with the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic, the carbon fiber execution is much more subtle, displaying less of the white swirls we’ve seen in ot...

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SJX Watches

Rolex chief executive Jean-Frederic Dufour Apr 5, 2023

Editorial: Happenings Around the Halls of Watches & Wonders

With the demise of Baselworld shortly before the pandemic and the evolution of SIHH into Watches & Wonders (W&W;), the Geneva fair is now the most important watch event on the planet. Having just closed, W&W; recorded massive visitor numbers and unexpectedly buoyant sentiment amongst industry executives. Despite the implosion of Credit Suisse the week before and assorted troubles around the world, sentiment at the fair amongst industry insiders was robust, catching most by surprise. Brands executives indicated orders from retailers were good as was interest from clients, and expressed optimism for the coming year. Pessimism was hard to find, although a handful of well-placed individuals high up in important brands quietly pondered what things would look like in six months – the health of components suppliers to the industry will provide a clue. The irony is that brands run by such thoughtful individuals are usually the best placed to weather any downturn. Rolex chief executive Jean-Frederic Dufour (left), who is also the chairman of the W&W; foundation Everyone wants a look To anyone who was at Watches & Wonders (W&W;), the most tangible fact was the enormous and occasionally unmanageable crowd. According to its organisers, visitors numbered 43,000, compared to just 22,000 last year. Unsurprisingly, the celebratory mood of the organisers was clear in the closing announcement for the event. However, the preparations for the jump in visitors were clearly insufficient because ...

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H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Apr 4, 2023

Photo Report: We Hosted A Meetup With Lucid Motors During Watches & Wonders (And A Lot Of You Came)

Cars and watches, Geneva style.

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Vacheron Constantin Adds Apr 4, 2023

Vacheron Constantin Adds a Retrograde Date Complication to the Overseas Collection

Last year’s big release from Vacheron Constantin, the reintroduction of the legendary 222, sparked all kinds of speculation that we’d get another variant of that sports watch at this year’s Watches & Wonders. Maybe one in steel? Or with new complications? As it turns out, we didn’t get a 222 of any kind this year, but VC paid respect to its contemporary integrated bracelet sports watch, a watch whose lineage can be traced back directly to the 222, by adding a complication that is deeply tied to the brand’s identity, a retrograde date display. It’s a first for the Overseas collection, which is itself kind of surprising. It’s one of those watches you can’t quite believe didn’t exist before now, and now that it’s here, it feels that much more well integrated with the rest of the collection.  The new Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date features the same 41mm steel case profile that the brand has been using since the collection was relaunched in 2016. The Overseas, while pre-dating the hysteria for integrated bracelet sports watches by many years (the line was introduced in 1996) was part of a later group of integrated bracelet watches to really catch fire with collectors in the recent boom, following the Royal Oak and Nautilus, but ahead of watches like the newer Alpine Eagle from Chopard. It has a character that is distinct from its competitors, and is uniquely Vacheron, dominated by a complex notched bezel and less intense case geometry. The Overseas, mo...

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Patek Philippe wows Apr 4, 2023

Patek Philippe wows with the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph in white gold

Patek Philippe embarks on a new route for Watches & Wonders 2023 with two new versions of its Calatrava Pilot Travel Time. In addition to the second time zone, there’s the added complication of a flyback chronograph. Two dial colours are offered, both cased in polished white gold. The new Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel … ContinuedThe post Patek Philippe wows with the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph in white gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Hublot Has Made Apr 3, 2023

Hands On with the Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Blue Sapphire, the Most Audacious Sapphire Watch Hublot Has Made

And now, readers, we’ve come to that portion of our Watches & Wonders coverage that I know at least two of you have been anxiously anticipating, Yes, it’s now an annual tradition I guess, where I will wax rhapsodically about a mind bending Hublot novelty fit for a modern version of an 18th century French king. I can’t really think of a better way to describe the Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Blue Sapphire than to contextualize it with something commonly understood to be shorthand for over-the-top indulgence, but that’s what this watch is all about, in the best possible way. It’s a huge swing, which is exactly what I like to see from brands at Watches & Wonders. If I’m going to fly across an ocean and deal with travel delays at every step, I’d like to see things that I can only see in a presentation in the back of one of those enormous booths.  Last year I wrote about the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Purple Sapphire and characterized it as one of the best watches of last year’s Watches & Wonders because it succeeded at being compelling from a watchmaking perspective while also being completely outlandish in a way that Hublot is uniquely great at. It marked a point in my own appreciation for the brand where they rose above the level of a mere curiosity and reached a point where, in my opinion, they are deserving of the respect given to any other serious innovator in contemporary watchmaking.  This year they’re back with a sequel of sorts to last ye...

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Bulgari s Precious Apr 3, 2023

Bulgari’s Precious and Striking Tourbillon models present three variations of the complication

Bulgari flexes their haute horlogerie muscles with four high-end tourbillon-equipped pieces The Precious Naturalia and Precious Tourbillon Lumière show off natural gemstone beauty in rose gold cases Combining titanium and sapphire, the Striking Tourbillon Sapphire and Striking Papillon Tourbillon go for a futuristic look Cementing themselves as an unquestionable champion of fashion-brand-turned-high-end-watchmakers, Bulgari has been … ContinuedThe post Bulgari’s Precious and Striking Tourbillon models present three variations of the complication appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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D Deployant

Deployant

Apr 2, 2023

Armchair Picks: Robin’s 3 of the Best from Watches and Wonders 2023

With the recently concluded Watches and Wonders 2023, we take a look at some of our favourite timepieces from the exhibition.

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Q Quill & Pad

Quill & Pad

Apr 2, 2023

Teeling Whiskey: The 2016 World’s Best Single Malt Whiskey - Reprise

At the 2016 World Whiskies Awards, Teeling Whiskey was awarded “World’s Best Irish Single Malt” and then in 2019 “World’s Best Single Malt.” Ken Gargett takes a look at (and a few drams of) a couple of the company's wonderful whiskeys and explains what makes them so exceptional.

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Rolex Perpetual 1908 exudes class Apr 1, 2023

The new Rolex Perpetual 1908 exudes class

The teasers pretty much confirmed it – Rolex is finally paying attention to the Cellini! Well, as it proves year in, year out, the rumours are only sort of true. Rather than a revised Cellini, Rolex is presenting an entirely new model – the Perpetual 1908, marking the beginnings of a new collection. If you … ContinuedThe post The new Rolex Perpetual 1908 exudes class appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Hublot Mar 31, 2023

Watches & Wonders: the Final Recap

Well folks, it’s been a hectic Watches & Wonders. So hectic, in fact, that we missed the last few days of recaps. But the show has ended (public days start tomorrow, but we head back to the States early in the AM) and we’ve all taken a deep breath and thought about this back half of the week. This isn’t a final summation of our thoughts on the show, but our immediate reactions as it winds down in real time. Thanks for following along with us as we’ve reported from Geneva – we can’t wait to tell you more about what we saw. Zach Kazan The back half of Watches & Wonders has been essentially nonstop for all of us. We took a divide and conquer approach, splitting up to cover the most ground, and as a result will have tons of great watches to tell you about over the coming weeks. For me, the final day of Watches & Wonders was possibly the best single day of the show.  Highlight number one: Hublot. This was perhaps my most anticipated meeting, because it unexpectedly turned out to be my favorite meeting of last year. The vibe when the Hublot novelties is presented is so markedly different from every other presentation, it’s hard not to notice. It’s lowkey and genuinely a lot of fun, and the watches, for me, have a Wow Factor that few brands can match. The most noteworthy piece is one I’ll be writing more about soon, the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic in blue sapphire, with a sapphire bracelet. It’s a technical marvel on a number of levels, and is one of those ...

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R Revolution

Revolution

Jaeger-LeCoultre Mar 31, 2023

VIDEO: New Reverso Chronographs and Tourbillons unveiled by Jaeger-LeCoultre at Watches and Wonders 2023

Catherine Rénier, CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre, takes Wei Koh, Founder of Revolution, through the Watches and Wonders 2023 novelties of Jaeger-LeCoultre. Timepieces that La Grande Maison presented at this preeminent watch fair included the Reverso Tribute Chronograph, Reverso Tribute Duoface Tourbillon, Reverso Tribute Small Seconds and the 10-piece limited edition Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179. The […]

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R Revolution

Revolution

Jacob & Co. Astronomia Revolution Mar 31, 2023

VIDEO: The new Jacob & Co. Astronomia Revolution, the new Casino watch & the Billionaire Timeless Treasure

Attendees of the Watches and Wonders 2023 were mesmerized by the out-of-this-world Jacob & Co. Astronomia Revolution. Within a 47mm gold case, a satellite makes a revolution precisely every 60 seconds. Its three arms carry a ruby that makes a revolution on its own axis every 15 seconds, a Jacob & Co. triple axis tourbillon […]

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H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Cartier s iconic watch finally Mar 31, 2023

Introducing: The Original Tank Returns With The Privé Tank Normale

With multiple treatments to chose from, Louis Cartier's iconic watch finally joins the Privé collection. And check out those bracelets!

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R Revolution

Revolution

Grönefeld introduces Mar 30, 2023

VIDEO: Bart Grönefeld introduces the 1941 Grönograaf

Bart and Tim Grönefeld grew up in a watchmaking family, and together they have propelled their eponymous brand to enormous success in independent watchmaking and haute horlogerie. Here’s a closer look at the 1941 Grönograaf launched last year, which is the brand’s first chronograph. The 40mm 1941 Grönograaf in steel (188-piece limited edition) or tantalum […]

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R Revolution

Revolution

Vacheron Constantin complications Mar 30, 2023

VIDEO: Christian Selmoni introduces Vacheron Constantin complications at Watches and Wonders 2023

Vacheron Constantin’s Heritage and Style Director Christian Selmoni presents the Vacheron Constantin Double Retrograde mechanism, which is now available in both the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony and the Vacheron Constantin styles of watch. In this video, Mr Selmoni also shows Revolution Founder Wei Koh the Traditionelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Open Face, a 41mm pink gold watch […]

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R Revolution

Revolution

Trilobe Mar 30, 2023

VIDEO: The new Trilobe Une Folle Journée Diamant and Trilobe Une Folle Journée Dune

Trilobe is a trailblazer in the world of unusual timetelling, and its pieces are extremely lightweight at that. Discover the new versions of the Trilobe Une Folle Journée together with Revolution Founder Wei Koh and Trilobe Founder Gautier Massonneau. Presented at Watches and Wonders 2023, the Trilobe Une Folle Journée Diamant has diamond-set rings, while […]

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Worn & Wound

Ulysse Nardin Introduces Mar 30, 2023

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Freak ONE, a Mesmerizing Tribute to the Original Freak

There seem to be two strategies for product presentations at Watches & Wonders. The first, and more common, is to barrage members of the press with watch, after watch, after watch. Too many, sometimes, to even begin to comprehend the releases that really stand out. The other strategy, which is less common but might be growing in popularity, is to focus on a single watch, and really dive into it in great detail. That’s the approach taken by Ulysse Nardin this year with the Freak ONE, a new entry into the Freak ecosystem that sits somewhere between the Freak X, made for the most casual possible Freak-curious customer (I mean, it has a crown, it’s practically a normal watch), and the absolutely ludicrous Freak S, the pinnacle of Freak design and the most complicated watch Ulysse Nardin has made on the platform in its 20+ year history.  History is at the center of the conversation with respect to the new Freak ONE. It’s a tribute, in some subtle ways, to the very first Freak, which Ulysee Nardin had on hand at the fair for the sake of comparison. Accents of gold in the Freak ONE are the most obvious connection besides general layout, common to all Freaks. But the gold here is perhaps more than just an “accent,” as we get not just a gold bezel (used for setting the time) but a solid gold movement on display at the center of the piece. The visible movement is very much the key to Freak, as it rotates around the dial (which isn’t really a “dial” in the traditiona...

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W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Oris ProPilot Altimeter Mar 30, 2023

A New 3D-Printed Carbon Fiber Composite Case and an Upgraded Mechanical Altimeter Takes The Oris ProPilot Altimeter to Greater Heights

I think it’s safe to say that we’re past the initial shock and awe moments from the first couple of days of Watches & Wonders. As we all digest the barrage of releases, the next day or so is my favorite because now we really get to sift through each and every novelty to discover the watches that may have been overshadowed by the preliminary excitement. To look past the first glass case surrounded by all the fancy lights and signage to find the brand’s deep cuts from this year’s showing. Oris came out of the Watches & Wonders gates in a playful way by featuring their ProPilot x Kermit Edition, but a more serious, utilitarian ProPilot that has legitimate expedition-watch chops has also garnered some of our attention. Compared to its ProPilot predecessor, it’s significantly lighter and capable of pushing to greater heights – it’s the new ProPilot Altimeter. The Oris ProPilot Altimeter confidently stands as the only wristwatch at Watches & Wonders, and the world, to utilize an integrated mechanical altimeter. By way of some ingenious engineering and a series of numerals and markers located within the segmented dial cut-outs, as well as a metric scale (either feet or meters depending on the reference you opt for) on the rehaut, an accurate reading of your current altitude can be read. The crown at 4 o’clock signed with an “ALT SET” wordmark manages the entire altimeter system. Unscrewing the crown activates the altimeter by allowing air to enter the case. On...

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H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

MB&F; Mar 30, 2023

Hands-On: The Salmon-Dialed MB&F; Legacy Machine Perpetual Calendar

Max Büsser knows how to give the fans what they want.

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R Revolution

Revolution

Montblanc Iced Sea Geosphere Mar 30, 2023

Meet the new Montblanc Iced Sea, Geosphere 0 Oxygen, Unveiled Secret and Unveiled Timekeeper watches

Laurent Lecamp, Montblanc’s Managing Director for the Watch Division, introduces new Iced Sea watches, which are inspired by maritime expeditions and sport glacier pattern dials created using a traditional technique called gratté-boisé. Next, he showed Revolution Founder Wei Koh the new additions to the Montblanc 0 Oxygen series. Inspired by mountaineers like Nimsdai Purja and […]

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Chopard L.U.C 1860 Mar 30, 2023

The Chopard L.U.C 1860 is a reissue of the very first L.U.C

The Chopard L.U.C 1860 is a reissue of their first L.U.C watch, with many modern improvements The salmon dial is crafted from a gold plate, and does away with the unnecessary date display Chopard’s Lucent steel is made from 80% recycled material, and is also harder and brighter than regular stainless steel Chopard’s first wristwatch … ContinuedThe post The Chopard L.U.C 1860 is a reissue of the very first L.U.C appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Patek Philippe takes design risks Mar 30, 2023

Patek Philippe takes design risks with the Calatrava 4997/200R

The Patek Philippe 4997/200R Calatrava brings a vibrant purple dial into their ladies’ Calatrava catalogue The dial is made up of over 50 layers of lacquer on an embossed dial The Calibre 240 is visible from the sapphire display caseback, and is beautifully finished Patek Philippe have been taking design risks for decades, but there’s … ContinuedThe post Patek Philippe takes design risks with the Calatrava 4997/200R appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Patek Philippe 5531G Grand Complications Mar 30, 2023

Cloisonné mastery of the Patek Philippe 5531G Grand Complications

The Patek Philippe 5531G Grand Complications pays tribute to their Geneva home The Grand Feu cloisonné section of the dial depicts a steamship from the Belle Époque fleet that has been cruising Lake Geneva for over a century The calibre R 27 HU is equipped with world time and minute repeater complications Technical mastery is … ContinuedThe post Cloisonné mastery of the Patek Philippe 5531G Grand Complications appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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