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Field Watch

The military-utility tool watch genre. WWI trench → WWII Dirty Dozen → MIL-W-46374 → Hamilton Khaki and Marathon GPM.
Longines Ultra-Chron: The World's First High-Frequency Dive Watch Retu Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Feb 1, 2023

Longines Ultra-Chron: The World's First High-Frequency Dive Watch Retu

The Longines Ultra-Chron takes its most direct inspiration from a dive watch the brand introduced in 1968, but it also represents the culmination of Longines’ expertise in making high-frequency watch movements, which goes back more than 100 years. Longines’ century-plus quest for high-frequency timekeeping precision started in 1914, when it produced the first hand-held stopwatches (like the one below) with movements that measured time to 1/10 second thanks to their high-frequency movement, Caliber 19.73N, whose balance wheel oscillated at 36,600 vph. It continued with a modification of that caliber to achieve an astonishing rate of 360,000 vph, and a stopwatch accuracy of 1/100 second, in 1916; hit a new milestone with the launch of the Observatory Chronometer in 1959, the first wristwatch with a 36,600-vph movement; and culminated with the introduction of the Ultra-Chron Diver (below) in 1968, which became the world’s first high-frequency divers’ watch, housing the 36,600-vph Caliber 431. (Yes, this predates by one year the most famous high-frequency movement, the Zenith El Primero, though that movement also incorporated automatic winding and a chronograph.) The Ultra-Chron Diver provides the template for the all-new Ultra-Chron model, whose cushion-shaped stainless steel case spans a contemporary 43mm in diameter and 13.6mm thick as well as a 300-meter water resistance - an improvement on the vintage model’s 200-meter rating. Like its predecessor, and in th...

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Rolex Air-King: A Classic Pilot's Watch Revamped at Watches & Wonders Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Jan 31, 2023

Rolex Air-King: A Classic Pilot's Watch Revamped at Watches & Wonders

Only at Rolex can a watch dubbed a King be described as humble compared to other watches with less lofty but still commanding titles like Master. The Rolex Air-King, despite being the oldest existing model in the mega-brand’s star-studded lineup, has never attained the levels of mainstream popularity and collectability enjoyed by household-name watches like the Daytona, Submariner, GMT-Master, and (arguably) even the Yacht-Master. Rolex hopes to change that this year, however, making the newest version of the Air-King a headliner of its 2022 collection, unveiled this week at Watches & Wonders 2022 in Geneva. Aviation History The Rolex Air-King (technically Rolex Oyster Perpetual Air-King) traces its history all the way back to 1945, when it was launched as part of a trio of timepieces called the “Air Series” that celebrated the accomplishments of Britain’s Royal Air Force in World War II, alongside the discontinued Air-Giant and Air-Tiger. The Air-King, the last survivor of that collection designed “to honor the pioneers of aviation,” went through a number of evolutions throughout the years. The original model’s 34mm case (considered large at the time, believe it or not), cream-colored dial and manual wind movement would eventually be replaced by the now-familiar design most recently updated in 2016: a black dial with a 60-minute scale and inverted triangle at the 12 o’clock/60-minute position (a feature of historical pilots’ watches); large 3, 6, and ...

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The Roundup: A Watch That Plays With Fire, A Strap That Goes With (Almost) Everything, And An Incredibly Handy Tool Worn & Wound
Jan 29, 2023

The Roundup: A Watch That Plays With Fire, A Strap That Goes With (Almost) Everything, And An Incredibly Handy Tool

The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up. The Roundup is the Windup Watch Shop’s weekly rundown of the latest and greatest watches, accessories, EDC, and other gear. We’ve curated a selection to fit everyone’s style and budget. Hit the links below to learn more and pick something up. The post The Roundup: A Watch That Plays With Fire, A Strap That Goes With (Almost) Everything, And An Incredibly Handy Tool appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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HANDS-ON: The Omega Speedmaster Super Racing is the brand’s most accurate watch yet Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster Super Racing Jan 29, 2023

HANDS-ON: The Omega Speedmaster Super Racing is the brand’s most accurate watch yet

Rolex and Omega are the Coke and Pepsi of the watch industry. As two of the biggest brands in the world, they are constantly pitted up against one another head to head. Since the brand’s inception, Rolex has been known for incremental progress and updates. Omega, on the other hand, has taken more risks and … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Omega Speedmaster Super Racing is the brand’s most accurate watch yet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Stories Of Gods, Wine, Spirits, And A Watch: The Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus – Reprise Quill & Pad
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Jan 28, 2023

Stories Of Gods, Wine, Spirits, And A Watch: The Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus – Reprise

Vacheron Constantin released a watch that crosses the bridge between the worlds of watches and wine: a single-piece edition called Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus. Ken Gargett understands that watch people find this as exciting as wine lovers might find the new vintage of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s Romanée-Conti.

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The DIY Series: How to make your own watch (Pt 1) Time+Tide
Jan 28, 2023

The DIY Series: How to make your own watch (Pt 1)

Watch enthusiasts are absolutely spoiled for choice at the moment, with microbrands and big brand budget options just getting better all the time. There’s never been a more competitive time in the watch world, with pretty much every kind of watch you can imagine currently being made. That said, if you’ve got a hankering so … ContinuedThe post The DIY Series: How to make your own watch (Pt 1) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Thor R. Worn & Wound
Sinn U1 ds – $2,300 Jan 27, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Thor R.

Editor’s note: In this 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Thor R. isn’t afraid to get away from the well beaten path. These watches offer a unique perspective on collecting, and come to the conclusion that you can indeed find a healthy variety within the confines of a similar genres. You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. I appreciate high quality, but I also value understated style. My collection is striking, but not gaudy or too blingy. I don’t get many compliments or comments, but when I do, they’re always from “watch people” , not fashionistas. Looking to add one more big boy later in life, but for now, this is great. Bear in mind, these were all purchased north of the 49th parallel at either the manufacturer or the closest AD, so I’m guessing/converting to USD. Sinn U1 ds – $2,300 Always loved the face, and the grind dial aspect with grey and white colouring spoke to me. I have # 440/500. This is my primary EDC as it’s easy to read, looks great with everything, and is highly trustworthy. Like me, it’s ugly yet effective.  Marathon Red maple leaf JSAR – $1,200 I love the true tactical vibe of this watch. As you can tell, I like big heavy watches, and watches that are legitimately used for purpose. As a Canadian, it’s also nice to support a Canadian company that produces great quality, highly durable timepieces. This thing is a tank, and survived a nasty fall down a fl...

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We Went Hands-On with the New Releases from LVMH Watch Week, and These are Our Favorites Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Hublot Jan 25, 2023

We Went Hands-On with the New Releases from LVMH Watch Week, and These are Our Favorites

The new releases from LVMH Watch Week came to New York City last week, and of course the Worn & Wound team was there to check them out. It was the first big batch of new releases in 2023, and Bulgari, TAG Heuer, Hublot, and Zenith all brought a variety of watches to display. Here are initial impressions from Blake Buettner, Kat Shoulders, and Zach Kazan. Kat Shoulders  My favorite watch from the LVMH Preview was the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph. There were no doubt higher end horology pieces at the preview, but as far as watches I’d be ready to buy on the spot, this one won the day for me. I’ve been known amongst the Worn and Wound crew to not be a huge titanium lover, and quite honestly, I’m perfectly OK with that. The metal typically isn’t my favorite to wear due to the lighter feel. However, the grade 2 titanium that TAG uses felt incredibly nice in person and high quality. Maybe it was the sand blasted finishing as well, but something just really struck me about this particular Aquaracer. The finishing, the feel, the bezel action…it all just comes together perfectly in my opinion. The older I get, the more comfortable I am in this hobby saying that quartz is actually really convenient. Add the ability to charge the movement via solar power, and you have a really great tool watch you literally never have to worry about. The grayed out Aquaracer shutter dial that we’ve become familiar with along with the ice blue hands and text is eye-catc...

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Mark Cho’s Survey of Watch Size Preference and Our Own Wrist Size Perceptions is Back Worn & Wound
Jan 25, 2023

Mark Cho’s Survey of Watch Size Preference and Our Own Wrist Size Perceptions is Back

Data nerds, rejoice: Mark Cho’s watch size survey is back. Back in 2019, watch collector and menswear retailer Mark Cho conducted his first watch size survey in an attempt to put some data behind one of the most peculiar yet foundational facets of watch collecting (we wrote about that survey here). The questions in Mark’s survey go beyond simple preferences, but get to how we view our own wrist size. Is it smaller or larger than average? And what effect does that have on the watches we choose to buy? Mark even asks about preferences for a potential “secondary watch” (a sports watch for the weekend, for example) to put an even finer point on the way we feel about watch size.  When Mark first conducted the survey, he found that a significant percentage of respondents viewed their wrist as smaller than average, which could theoretically have been a result of the tail end of the Big Watch era making us all think our wrists were too small to comfortably handle some of the most popular watches of the time. In the relatively short period that’s passed since that first survey, though, smaller watches (not small watches) have fully come back into fashion, so it will be interesting to see if perceptions change along with preferences. Regardless, there’s sure to be a ton of data, and it will be interesting to comb through it once the survey is complete.  If you’re interested in Mark’s findings from that first survey, be sure to check out his lecture for the Horologi...

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Just a Minute with Windup Watch Shop’s Italian Leather Straps Worn & Wound
Jan 25, 2023

Just a Minute with Windup Watch Shop’s Italian Leather Straps

Let’s take just a minute with the entire range of Italian made, leather straps available here at the Windup Watch Shop. Hoyt, Roadster, Wyckoff, Degraw, and Sackett come in a wide variety of colors, with finishing that define them: the Hoyt with it’s matte leather and no-stitch design, the Roadster with it’s breathable, rally styling, the Wykoff with it’s pebble grain leather three quarter-stitched accents, the Degraw with it’s full-stitched nubuck upper leather, and the Sackett for that classic suede look with full-stitched accents. Let’s take just a minute with the entire range of Italian made, leather straps available here at the Windup Watch Shop. Hoyt, Roadster, Wyckoff, Degraw, and Sackett come in a wide variety of colors, with finishing that define them: the Hoyt with it’s matte leather and no-stitch design, the Roadster with it’s breathable, rally styling, the Wykoff with it’s pebble grain leather three quarter-stitched accents, the Degraw with it’s full-stitched nubuck upper leather, and the Sackett for that classic suede look with full-stitched accents. The post Just a Minute with Windup Watch Shop’s Italian Leather Straps appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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[Photo Report] LVMH Watch Week Comes to NYC Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Hublot Jan 24, 2023

[Photo Report] LVMH Watch Week Comes to NYC

Last week, we had the opportunity to go hands-on with many of the new releases from LVMH brands, who celebrated their LVMH Watch Week to kick off the new year. We saw new watches from Zenith, TAG Heuer, Hublot, and Bulgari, and even had the chance to sit with leadership from the brands to discuss their plans moving forward. Stay tuned for more impressions coming to the podcast and the site later this week, and in the meantime you’ll find a photo report from our time with the watches, along with a few takeaways from the experience. From lavish Hublots to perfectly understated TAG Heuers, there’s a little something for everyone here, including a surprise or two along the way.   Zenith We’re kicking things off with Zenith, who showed us new additions to their Skyline collection, which includes a new skeletonized dial, as well as smaller 36mm variants. They also had their latest Defy Revival A3691 with brilliant red dial, and perhaps best of all, and original ‘Bank Vault’ example (courtesy of podcast alum, Romain Marietta). There was a bonus appearance by a new boutique exclusive Defy with a grey and gold dial that worked much better in person that any of the images we’d seen up to that point. First impression of the new Skyline Skeleton was just how well the slightly larger proportions of the case worked on the wrist. TAG Heuer TAG Heuer had no shortage of watches to show us, from a new case in their smart watch Connected range, to that stunning 60th anniversary ...

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Zenith Defy Watch Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith Jan 21, 2023

Zenith Defy Watch Guide

Swiss watch manufacture Zenith traces its roots to 1865, when it was founded in the village of Le Locle by precocious 22-year-old watchmaker Georges Favre-Jacot. As one of the first watchmaking maisons to integrate all aspects of the watchmaking process under one roof, from case manufacturing to movement production to final casing and assembly, Zenith has long prided itself on its quest for timekeeping precision. The company has earned a record number of chronometry prizes over the years, and its most influential contribution to watchmaking history is its El Primero chronograph caliber, released in 1969. (Learn more about El Primero here.) In that same pivotal year, Zenith also released an avant-garde wristwatch series called Defy, whose bold, edgy design proved to be ahead of its time, and found its expression in the now-legendary Ref. A3642.  The Original Defy (1969) That watch was nicknamed the “coffre-fort,” a French term translating to “bank vault” or “safe,” a reference to its robustly angular, octagonal case, 14-sided bezel, and high-for-the-time water resistance of 300 meters, secured by its crown, caseback, and mineral crystal, all of which screwed securely into the case. Its “ladder-style” bracelet from legendary chainmaker Gay Frères also made the original reference notable. The Defy was positioned as Zenith’s toughest watch, featured in an advertisement in which six of the watches were strapped to the spokes of a motorcycle in a speed test a...

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Fears and Christopher Ward Collaborate for the First Limited Edition from the British Watch and Clock Makers Alliance Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Collaborate Jan 20, 2023

Fears and Christopher Ward Collaborate for the First Limited Edition from the British Watch and Clock Makers Alliance

We’ve covered the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers a few times since it was founded in 2020. We’ve had Christopher Ward’s Mike France and Roger Smith on our podcast to discuss the origins of the trade group, and we devoted a panel at last year’s Windup Watch Fair in New York City to the coming “British Invasion” of watch brands, which the Alliance is a big part of. Mostly, though, we’ve just seen British brands have a real moment over the last several years, and two of our favorites have collaborated on the first watch released by the Alliance. The all new Fears Christopher Ward: Alliance 01 takes a slice of what we love about both brands and combines it into a very limited watch that will only be available to Alliance Club members.  It’s worth pointing out from the outset that this watch represents a big part of what the Alliance set out to do upon its founding, which is to foster collaboration between British watchmaking companies. Sharing resources and forging partnerships across the Alliance’s 77 trade members is very much the goal of the organization, and this new watch reflects that in a unique and highly tangible way.  The Alliance 01 is notable for the way it balances the aesthetic language that Fears has established over this most recent period in their history with the technical know-how of Christopher Ward. The stainless steel case is bespoke, made specifically for this project, but will immediately make Fears fans think of the cush...

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The Zodiac Super Seawolf x Rowing Blazers Limited Edition – Now Available In The Windup Watch Shop Worn & Wound
Zodiac Super Seawolf x Rowing Jan 19, 2023

The Zodiac Super Seawolf x Rowing Blazers Limited Edition – Now Available In The Windup Watch Shop

The Sea Wolf is Zodiac’s most important and iconic watch design. First released in 1953, it is one of the watches that has defined the modern dive watch. Featuring a rotating bezel, large lumed markers and hands, and a steel bracelet, it had all of the elements needed for a diver. As part of its ongoing collaboration with Harry’s Bar, Jack Carlson’s cult brand Rowing Blazers is partnering with Zodiac to create a limited-edition Super Sea Wolf timepiece celebrating the oldest cocktail bar in Europe.   The Sea Wolf is Zodiac’s most important and iconic watch design. First released in 1953, it is one of the watches that has defined the modern dive watch. Featuring a rotating bezel, large lumed markers and hands, and a steel bracelet, it had all of the elements needed for a diver. As part of its ongoing collaboration with Harry’s Bar, Jack Carlson’s cult brand Rowing Blazers is partnering with Zodiac to create a limited-edition Super Sea Wolf timepiece celebrating the oldest cocktail bar in Europe.   The post The Zodiac Super Seawolf x Rowing Blazers Limited Edition – Now Available In The Windup Watch Shop appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Hermès Debuts a Luxe Take on the H08 Sports Watch SJX Watches
Hermes would remove Jan 17, 2023

Hermès Debuts a Luxe Take on the H08 Sports Watch

Having just introduced the cushion-shaped H08 sports watch last year, Hermès is now giving it a new look with a case in rose gold, ceramic, and DLC-treated titanium. While the design is identical to the earlier versions, the new H08 gains a bold and luxurious look – along with a steeper price tag – with the new mix of case materials. Initial thoughts The mix of materials on the new H08 are a perfect complement to the clean design and simple lines of the watch. Though certainly a bit more flashy than the muted originals, the new H08 is still an understated watch. I appreciate the use of ceramic and DLC-coated titanium as it creates contrast while dialling down the bling factor. The result is a watch that manages to look different from other sports watches, even though the black-and-rose-gold formula is a familiar one. But as with the original, I wish Hermes would remove the date between four and five o’clock. Given its functional design and focus on geometric shapes, I feel the H08 should be about an unconditional focus on the time. Priced at US$17,000, the new H08 costs almost double the model in titanium. That’s about the going rate for upgrading from titanium to a precious metal case, but it is still a chunk of change. While the original was fair value given its cost-to-performance ratio, this one is a little tougher to justify, though it is arguably far more attractive. Two-tone cushion The new H08 is actually comprised of three different materials: the bezel a...

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Hamilton Khaki Field Collection: A Comprehensive Buying Guide for 2024 Teddy Baldassarre
Hamilton Jan 16, 2023

Hamilton Khaki Field Collection: A Comprehensive Buying Guide for 2024

When it comes to being a vital thread in the American historical tapestry, few watch companies can compare with Hamilton. Founded in Lancaster, Pennsylvania in 1892, during an era in which the United States was a world leader in timepiece production, the Hamilton Watch Company has played a role in building and growing the young nation since its earliest days. And though the company has for several decades been making its watches in Switzerland rather than the United States, its American heritage, and its particular association with the American military, is evident in several of its modern-day collections, perhaps most plainly in the Hamilton Khaki Field collection, which channels the martial aesthetics of the 1940s in a stye that few other modern timepiece families can match.  From Railroads to Battlefields In 1912, as railroads began spanning and connecting the sprawling reaches of the country, it was Hamilton that produced the uncommonly sturdy and precise pocket watches that railroad conductors used to keep the trains on time and on schedule; in those days before an established international system of time zones, a poorly running watch could initiate a disaster on the rails. Just two years later, as the United States entered the First World War that was besieging Europe, Hamilton shifted its focus from being the acknowledged “Railroad Timekeeper of America” to building compact timekeepers that American G.I.s could wear and depend upon in the trenches and battlefie...

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MICRO MONDAYS: The Le Jour Delmare delivers a 1970s-inspired dive watch for a great price Time+Tide
Jan 16, 2023

MICRO MONDAYS: The Le Jour Delmare delivers a 1970s-inspired dive watch for a great price

Le Jour aren’t what you would typically consider a microbrand. They weren’t funded through a Kickstarter campaign, nor were they founded by a young visionary who wanted to shake up the watch industry. In fact, if the Le Jour brand name is familiar to you, it may be because they were quite a popular brand … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Le Jour Delmare delivers a 1970s-inspired dive watch for a great price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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A Week In Watches Ep. 32: LVMH Watch Week Lands with a (Big) Bang, & Oris Drops a New Caliber Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Carrera alongside Jan 15, 2023

A Week In Watches Ep. 32: LVMH Watch Week Lands with a (Big) Bang, & Oris Drops a New Caliber

Welcome to A Week In Watches episode 32 with Managing Editor, Blake Buettner jumping in to chat about some of the new watches released during LVMH Watch Week. We’ve got some bombastic Hublots, an anniversary LE of the TAG Heuer Carrera alongside a low-key killer Aquaracer, and of course, some new Skyline references from Zenith. If none of that is your thing we’ve also got some news from Oris, who released a new caliber this week within a lovely Big Crown Pointer Date. Find links to all these stories below and hit the video for the full episode. Share your thoughts on YouTube (and subscribe to the channel while you’re there), or right here in the comments section.  This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. For an excellent and ever-growing catalog of watches, straps, clocks, and more, head to windupwatchshop.com. The Carrera Turns 60 this Year, and TAG Heuer is Celebrating This year marks the 60th anniversary of the Carrera chronograph, and if you thought TAG Heuer was going to let even a month go by without acknowledging what is perhaps their most famous and admired watch, well, you must be new. The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph 60th Anniversary is exactly what you probably want to see if you’re a fan of classic Heuer racing chronographs, as it’s modeled after one of the most legendary Carrera references, the 2447 SN, and matches it detail for detail. Read the full story here. Hublot Asks: Why Settle for Steel When You Could Have SAXEM? ...

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