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All Tudor Black Bay References Tudor

Every Tudor Black Bay: 79220R/B/N, 79230, 79030 BB58, 79830RB Pro, 7939 GMT METAS, S&G, Bronze, Chrono.

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Black Bay Tudor

The Tudor heritage diver that revived the brand and references every vintage Submariner.

Greubel Forsey Introduces the GMT Balancier Convexe SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Introduces Aug 29, 2022

Greubel Forsey Introduces the GMT Balancier Convexe

Having made its debut in Greubel Forsey’s watches a decade ago, the world time is one of the brand’s distinctive complications with its large titanium globe. While the original iteration of the world time wristwatch came to an end last year with the all-black final edition, Greubel Forsey has taken the covers off its successor, the GMT Balancier Convexe. The three-dimensional world time sphere has been retained, but almost all else has been redesigned on the new model. Beside adopting the streamlined aesthetics of the brand’s bestselling sports watches like the Balancier S2, the display now has local and world time arranged concentrically in a traditional, Louis Cottier-style display in a first for the brand. Initial thoughts Despite its complex looks and US$400,000 price tag, the GMT Balancier Convexe is relatively simple for a Greubel Forsey. In fact, it’s the brand’s first world time watch without a tourbillon. As a result, the new GMT is as much about design as mechanics. The GMT demonstrates how GF is implementing its sports watch styling across practically all of its line-up. The GMT has a streamlined “Convexe” case and does away with the asymmetrical bulge traditionally used to accommodate the globe. Because of its curved profile and hidden lugs, Convexe case allows the GMT to pass as a moderately sized watch despite being 46.5 mm in diameter, allowing it to wear smaller. To go along with the sporty case style, the dial has been given a new look. ...

HANDS ON: Is this green Omega Seamaster 300 the most attractive ever? Time+Tide
Omega Seamaster 300 Aug 18, 2022

HANDS ON: Is this green Omega Seamaster 300 the most attractive ever?

Green, green, oh… green. In 2021, green was the undisputed colour of the year with every watch manufacture under the sun presenting a design in the hue. Sure, you can’t go wrong with a black or white dial – their versatility is unmatched. But collectors need colour to liven up their watch boxes, and even … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: Is this green Omega Seamaster 300 the most attractive ever? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The York & Front Burrard combines military vintage with contemporary style Time+Tide
Jun 6, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The York & Front Burrard combines military vintage with contemporary style

Eschewing the influence of diving or sports, the pure military inspiration behind the new York & Front Burrard is pretty close to being the perfect functional tool watch. It’s a daily wearer with a distinctive style that comes in any colour you want, as long as it’s black or white. Sized at 38mm for textbook … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The York & Front Burrard combines military vintage with contemporary style appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

TAG Heuer Reimagines the Monaco Dark Lord SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Reimagines May 27, 2022

TAG Heuer Reimagines the Monaco Dark Lord

On the opening day of the 2022 Monaco Grand Prix, TAG Heuer takes the covers off the Heuer Monaco Special Edition, which takes its cues from the Monaco ref. 74033N, the all-black model from the 1970s nicknamed the “Dark Lord”. While it might look like a reissue at a glance, the new Monaco ticks all the right boxes in terms of vintage-inspired design without being a remake. Initial thoughts While TAG Heuer frequently turned to vintage remakes in recent years, the brand has now pivoted towards contemporary designs and concepts, a move exemplified by the Carbon Monaco and Carrera Plasma. The new Monaco Special Edition continues that – but at an affordable price point. The original “Dark Lord” is an attractive watch – the all-black look goes well with the square case and 1970s feel – and so the new Monaco is as well. But the new model is appealing because it is not a one-for-one remake, which would have been an easy to pull off but less interesting. The special edition manages to channel the feel of the vintage original by using rose gold accents on the dial, along with the textured outer section that brings to mind vintage synthetic leather straps. But it is entirely modern in materials and mechanics. The case is coated titanium, while the movement is the in-house Heuer 02. And this costs only US$300 more than a Monaco powered by an ETA movement, making it an easy choice for anyone who likes the model. The vintage Monaco “Dark Lord” ref. 74033N “Dark Lor...

VIDEO: From combat divers in WWII, the legacy of the Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman continues to evolve Time+Tide
Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman continues May 25, 2022

VIDEO: From combat divers in WWII, the legacy of the Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman continues to evolve

The Frogman is a black and white film from 1951 that depicts the contribution the US Navy divers made to WWII.  Following the death of their superior officer, the men of the Underwater Demolition Team chafe under the strict rule of Lieutenant Commander John Lawrence, a rule-bound leader who tries to crack down on team discipline. Following … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: From combat divers in WWII, the legacy of the Hamilton Khaki Navy Frogman continues to evolve appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Collector’s Crossroads: How sentimental value can become the nemesis of an evolving collector Time+Tide
May 20, 2022

Collector’s Crossroads: How sentimental value can become the nemesis of an evolving collector

The first expensive Swiss watch I ever purchased was an Ernest Borel Athletic. It’s a beautiful chronograph with a black dial that features a ton of depth. I bought it in 2016, while on my honeymoon in Toronto. It’s a watch that is forever associated with that time in my life and one I always … ContinuedThe post Collector’s Crossroads: How sentimental value can become the nemesis of an evolving collector appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

William Wood is raffling a motorbike, we also raffled a motorbike. Which one is better? Time+Tide
Apr 21, 2022

William Wood is raffling a motorbike, we also raffled a motorbike. Which one is better?

START YOUR ENGINES:  In 2018, we had a little dalliance with the brand that used to inhabit our HQ space, and now lives next door: Royal Enfield. Basically, we had a few beers one afternoon and found some matte-black, lightly modded common ground between watches and vintage-inspired bikes. The result: a Time+Tide motorcycle, later raffled off … ContinuedThe post William Wood is raffling a motorbike, we also raffled a motorbike. Which one is better? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: IWC Pilot’s Chronograph Top Gun in Green and White Ceramic SJX Watches
IWC Pilot’s Chronograph Top Gun Apr 12, 2022

Up Close: IWC Pilot’s Chronograph Top Gun in Green and White Ceramic

Launched in 2007, Top Gun is IWC’s line up of all-ceramic pilot’s watches. But since its inauguration over a decade ago, the Top Gun has largely relied on a singular colour of ceramic – black in either a matte or glossy finish. IWC did offer a few models with coloured ceramic cases, but they were limited editions, until now. At Watches & Wonders 2022 IWC revealed ceramic cases in white or green with a pair of Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun Edition – both regular production models. Instantly evoking stormtroopers from Star Wars, the “Lake Tahoe” edition has a case of white ceramic, while the “Woodland” edition is in forest-green ceramic. Both are 43.5 mm in diameter and contain the in-house cal. 69380. The two new models double the range of ceramic colours offered by IWC. They join the Pilot’s Watch “Mojave” editions launched in 2019 that had an unusual sand-coloured ceramic case, and last year’s “Laureus Sport for Good” in blue ceramic. “Woodland” Initial thoughts Long the brand’s bestselling line, the Pilot’s Watch has been a focus of IWC in recent few years. The brand has made safe bets with iterating on popular models that have received upgrades such as in-house movements, new dial colours, or more compact cases in new materials. In comparison the latest pair of chronographs are more adventurous. Intrinsically interesting because of their colours, the white and green ceramic cases are relatively uncommon for chronographs in this ...

Rolex Introduces the GMT-Master II “Left Handed” Ref. 126720VTNR SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces Mar 31, 2022

Rolex Introduces the GMT-Master II “Left Handed” Ref. 126720VTNR

One of the biggest surprises from Rolex at Watches & Wonders 2022 is the GMT-Master II ref. 126720VTNR – the first contemporary, regular-production Rolex with a left-handed or “destro” crown. And just to make it even more different, it is equipped with the brand’s first-ever green-and-black bezel. Initial thoughts A brand that has preserved the signature style of watches for decades, Rolex is all about incremental improvements that are often evident only in the details. That’s exactly the case with the new GMT-Master II, which retains the trademark GMT aesthetic but is rather different. In fact, it is very different, which makes it polarising – you either like it or you don’t. Initially the left-handed crown does look awkward on the left wrist; it feels off somehow. But very quickly you get used to it and it is surprisingly cool. The new ref. 126710VTNR is priced about US$550 more than its counterparts with a conventionally located crown. According to Rolex, the price difference does not result from the rejigged crown position but rather the changes to the testing equipment necessary to accommodate the new crown position. Destro Most obvious is the crown at nine o’clock, which is accompanied by a repositioned date window. It is ostensibly for the left-handed, but will surely find fans amongst right-handers who want something unusual. It is intriguing, just because it’s so different from the rest of the brand’s offering (though Rolex’s sister compan...

Swatch Drops the Bioceramic MoonSwatch Collab with Omega SJX Watches
Omega Perhaps Mar 24, 2022

Swatch Drops the Bioceramic MoonSwatch Collab with Omega

Perhaps the most surprising launch of the year so far, the Bioceramic MoonSwatch is a collaboration between Swatch and the maker of the Speedmaster Professional. The MoonSwatch is essentially Moonwatch “lite” – it has all the key details such as lyre lugs and a Velcro strap, but a quartz movement and small price tag. And the MoonSwatch is next level in terms of range. Whereas the original Moonwatch is mostly black, Swatch offers almost dozen variants of the MoonSwatch, each dedicated to the most significant bodies of the solar system, such as the Sun, Moon, and Mars. The MoonSwatch “Mission to Mars”, a tribute to the Speedmaster “Alaska Project” but with the entire case in bright red ceramic Initial thoughts The MoonSwatch is an exemplary crossover because its encapsulates the specialties of each brand. Combining the quintessential cheerful style of Swatch with Omega’s iconic Moonwatch results in a fun, lighthearted watch that’s very affordable. But it’s also a shocking product because the two brands are poles apart in terms of positioning and pricing. Put simply, an Omega strap costs more than the average Swatch watch. Swatch is clearly the winner. It’s an especially shrewd move for the maker of plastic watches, since some of the prestige and historical significance of Omega rubs off onto Swatch. As for Omega, it’s a purposeful act of brand dilution, no doubt in the hope that it brings the brand to a new audience that will aspire to own the real d...

Citizen Introduces the Series 8 870 First Anniversary SJX Watches
Citizen Introduces Mar 24, 2022

Citizen Introduces the Series 8 870 First Anniversary

Not long after Citizen unveiled the Caliber 0200 in early 2021, it followed up with an affordable alternative, the Series 8 870. Resembling its bigger brother with an integrated bracelet, the Series 8 outperforms in its price segment. And just as Citizen unveils a limited edition Caliber 0200 in shades of grey, it is also taking the covers off the Series 8 870 First Anniversary Limited Edition, which features an all-black case matched with a carbon-composite dial. Initial thoughts While the standard 870 has excellent fit and finishing considering the price, it is available with just two dial options – black or silver – that are pretty plain, especially when bold textures or colours are all the rage. The new 870 caters to current fashions, but still remains low-key in a manner that’s typical of Citizen’s higher-end watches. With its cleaner look, the all-black case is an improvement from the two-tone standard model, while the carbon composite dial adds a degree of interest that is only obvious up close. It’s also an unusual take on the patterned dial, which is typically stamped. Unlike the standard model, this has a see-through back. The movement has been made a little more interesting with a gilded rotor, which stands out even more than usual as the case is entirely black. In fact, the gilded rotor is the sole bit of colour on the watch, but one that will only be known to the owner. Arguably the only shortcoming of the new 870 is the lack of a bracelet. Th...

Citizen Introduces the Caliber 0200 “Japanese Armor” SJX Watches
Citizen Introduces Mar 23, 2022

Citizen Introduces the Caliber 0200 “Japanese Armor”

A year ago, Citizen debuted its first all new, high-end mechanical watch in decades, The Citizen Caliber 0200. A wristwatch par excellence, the Caliber 0200 was so good that it was one of our tops watches of 2021. Now Citizen is following up with the Caliber 0200 “Japanese Armour”, the first limited edition of the model that’s available globally. Topped with a black ceramic bezel and textured dial, the samurai-inspired Caliber 0200 has a low-key aesthetic that still distinguishes it from the all-steel models. Initial thoughts Even though production hasn’t yet caught up with demand – there’s still a waiting list for the watch – the Caliber 0200 is still a niche product, just because it is a high-end, mechanical offering from a brand better known for its solar-powered or quartz watches, and mostly affordable ones at that. So a limited edition makes sense, since the small run will boost desirability and create buzz worldwide (Citizen did launch a 50-piece limited edition last year that was sold only in Japan). That said, the new edition is still very much a restrained design that’s almost monochromatic. It’ll be one of those watches that are recognised only by those in the know. Interestingly, both the new limited edition and the standard model stick to the same palette – grey, silver, and black – with the difference between the two being the quantity and intensity of each colour. On the limited edition, black becomes the dominant colour thanks to the ...

Exhibition: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Timeless Stories in Singapore SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Timeless Stories Jan 20, 2022

Exhibition: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Timeless Stories in Singapore

Having celebrated the 90th anniversary of the Reverso last year with several limited editions – including the mega-complicated Quadriptyque with four faces – Jaeger-LeCoultre is revisiting its iconic swivelling wristwatch with a retrospective in Singapore. Open to the public from January 23, the event takes place in the brand’s boutique in the Marina Bay Sands casino and shopping complex. The store has been transformed into a miniature museum that includes exhibits of historical watches and material, and also interactive sessions where visitors can try their hands at perlage, the technique of applying a repeating circular graining often found in watch movements. 1931-2021 The retrospective includes a compact but all-encompassing line up of watches from Jaeger-LeCoultre’s museum in Le Sentier, including the very first Reverso from 1931 as well as the latest models conceived to mark the 90th anniversary. While the original Reverso is famed for its clever simplicity, the exhibits also include little-known variations such as the Reverso Cordonnet from 1933, a stylish Reverso for ladies that has a black-cord strap and two-tone case. And the exhibits naturally include the uncommon, highly-complicated models from the 1990s, when the brand first ventured into larger cases for the Reverso – and first started both sides of the case for displays. In fact, some of those watches are landmarks in Jaeger-LeCoultre history: the brand’s first-ever tourbillon as well as chim...

Zach’s five favourite watches of 2021 Time+Tide
Hublot ContinuedThe post Zach’s Dec 30, 2021

Zach’s five favourite watches of 2021

This past year has created a lot of firsts for me, both in life and in this industry. These included my first time visiting Geneva and Dubai. My first manufacture visit, spending time with the wonderful team at Rolex/Tudor. My first red-carpet event in Hollywood and, most recently, my first time skiing courtesy of Hublot … ContinuedThe post Zach’s five favourite watches of 2021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43mm in titanium – less large, still very much in charge Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43mm Dec 21, 2021

VIDEO: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43mm in titanium – less large, still very much in charge

Audemars Piguet have definitely thought outside of the box with many of their recent designs, such as the Code 11:59, Royal Oak Concepts, and the Black Panther, leveraging their traditional know-how to create modern timepieces the other Holy Trinity brands would never dream up. But they also understand when it is time to refine rather … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43mm in titanium – less large, still very much in charge appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Review: new Blancpain Air Command Flyback Chronograph Deployant
Blancpain Air Command Flyback Chronograph Dec 18, 2021

Review: new Blancpain Air Command Flyback Chronograph

The new Blancpain Air Command rides the waves of its predecessor but somehow lacks the finesse of the black dial model. Limited to 500 pieces, the 2019 model is mostly sold out if not completely sold out in stores. The new model benefits from it being a lighter and stronger material - titanium, and for those who prefer a subtler look, has a mostly matte finished case. In and of itself, the watch design is nicely executed and has a great movement behind it. And for those who prefer a blue dial over a black dial, a contemporary look over a homage, the new blue dial variant might be a better choice. But for those who prefer a more historically reminiscent timepiece, the 2019 homage would still be the leader of the pack.

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang UNICO Full Magic Gold Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang UNICO Full Dec 17, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang UNICO Full Magic Gold

Black and gold has traditionally been a colour combination that oozes refinement, having reached a peak of sophistication in the old-world charm of the Art Deco movement that evokes black marble bars and brass telephones. But, Hublot have created a black and gold watch that truly bucks this trend, with the Big Bang UNICO Full … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang UNICO Full Magic Gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.