Hodinkee
Fashion Watches: Chanel Watches Matter, And Here’s Why
Chanel's timepieces are a modern repackaging and repurposing of the core Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel design tenets. Our Style Editor tells us exactly why we should care.
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Hodinkee
Hodinkee
Auctions: Christie's And Mohammed Zaman Settle Lawsuit That Had Impounded Watches From Massive Single-Owner Sale
The settlement ends a dispute that had paused payment on Marlon Brando's GMT-Master, among other high-profile watches from November's 'Passion for Time' auction.
Deployant
Samuel Hoffmann tells us what makes Hautlence great
We recently caught up with Samuel Hoffmann, Brand Manager of Hautlence and we discussed what makes the brand tick.And why it is making a comeback.
Time+Tide
Rolex and Apple find themselves in hot water
The world's two biggest-selling watch brands have both found themselves in legal strife just as we head into 2024.The post Rolex and Apple find themselves in hot water appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Talking Watches: With Jean Arnault, Director Of Watches At Louis Vuitton
At the helm of LV Watches for a short time, Arnault is already making waves. Just wait until you see his collection.
Hodinkee
Pre-Owned Picks: A Neo-Vintage Rolex GMT-Master II 'Coke,' A Heritage TAG Heuer 'Glassbox' Telemeter, And A Stunning Yellow Gold Patek Gondolo
Plus the "Lake Suwa" from Grand Seiko, and a Saxonia from A. Lange & Söhne that you don't want to miss.
Teddy Baldassarre
Oris Divers Sixty-Five Review
The Oris Divers Sixty-Five collection has found a receptive and substantial audience since its introduction in 2015, firmly establishing itself as one the Swiss brand's most versatile and creatively innovative product families. Whether it's the retro appeal of its original 1960s design, the exclusivity of the Carl Brashear editions, or the playful pastels of the Cotton Candy models, the Oris Diver Sixty-Five has something for just about any type of watch enthusiast. Here is a comprehensive rundown of the line, from its mid-sixties inspiration to today. 1965: The Original Waterpoof Oris started making watches in 1904 in the Swiss town of Hölstein, where it is still based today. The brand made its first purpose-built dive watch in 1965, naming it the Oris Waterproof and targeting the era’s growing masses of recreational diving enthusiasts - many of whom were likely seeking a more affordable alternative to prohibitively priced genre pioneers like the Rolex Submariner and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. The Waterproof was a product of its time, with a case made of chromium-plated brass, a crystal made of Plexiglas, and a strap made of sturdy but decidedly non-luxurious black rubber. The case, with a dive-scale bezel that rotated in both directions, measured a rather modest 36mm and housed a manually wound mechanical movement, the 17-jewel Oris Caliber 654; at the time, Oris made most of its own movements in-house. This historical divers’ model (above, right), while never a...
SJX Watches
Raketa’s Dive Watch is Made from a Recycled Nuclear Submarine
The Raketa Sonar is a unique take on a dive watch. Featuring a funky, 1970s design with a colourful, 24-hour display – that was designed with the help of a Soviet navy captain – the Sonar has 200 m of water resistance. Two versions are available, a regular production and a limited edition – but it’s the latter that stands out. Both have steel cases, but the limited edition Sonar Kashalot has a bezel fabricated from titanium taken from the hull of the K-322 Kashalot, an Akula-class nuclear submarine that was deployed by the Soviet navy and decommissioned in 2019. Initial thoughts Known for its ostentatiously retro styling strongly evocative of Soviet-era timekeepers, Raketa sticks to its specialty with the Sonar. The design follows the mantra of form follows function: every aspect is catered to someone working in a nuclear-powered submariner. The 24-hour scale, for example, is useful since there is neither night nor day in a submarine. While the execution may not be to everyone’s taste, the originality of the concept is unmistakable. Recycled metal from Soviet nuclear submarines aren’t exactly rare – the Kashalot weighed over 14,000 tonnes fully loaded – but it gives the Sonar an additional degree of novelty and appeal. The submarine-titanium bezel is, however, substantially more expensive and only found on the limited edition. The standard model costs €1,900, and is the quality is as expected for the price. Raketa has improved its quality in recent years,...
SJX Watches
Best of 2023: Value Propositions Below US$10,000
While the headline-grabbing watches of the year often featuring big complications and equally hefty prices, the year’s new launches also included a good number of value buys – both bang for the buck and accessibly priced. We have assembled a list highlighting the best value propositions of 2023, focusing on watches below US$10,000. Leading the list is a collaboration between Louis Erard and Russian independent watchmaker Konstantin Chakyin – unsurprisingly given Louis Erard’s speciality of making independent watchmaking more accessible. The Le Régulateur “Time-Eater” continues with the whimsical aesthetic of Mr Chaykin’s bestselling Wristmons line, but the Time-Eater only has one eye in order to fit the regulator-style display. Like Louis Erard’s other regulator models, the Time-Eater in either version, 39 mm or 42 mm, is a thick watch at over 12 mm high, while inside is a no-frills Sellita automatic. But at CHF4,000 it was one of the best value buys in terms of independent watchmaking, and also the broader market. The 39 mm Time-Eater A fixture on our annual value-propositions list for some years now is Tudor, which has consistently distinguished itself with well-priced sports watches. Granted, all of the brand’s best products are dive watches – diversity is certainly not its strength for now – but the brand does one thing really well, thanks in large part to its brand-new, expansive manufacture. The brand had three noteworthy models in its line-u...
Quill & Pad
Breguet Classique Grande Complication 5317 Reviewed by Tim Mosso
In Tim Mosso's opinion, a tourbillon watch like the Breguet Classique Grande Complication 5317 would cause a sensation. On its own terms as a modern luxury article, the 5317 is both a wonder and a comparative value.
Revolution
Bernhard Lederer’s New Watch Is Insanely Cool…. and Inverted? | Bernhard Lederer CIC InVerto!
Bernhard Lederer, a highly skilled Master Watchmaker of German origin, has established himself in the heart of Swiss watchmaking, Saint Blaise near Neuchâtel. His exceptional craftsmanship and innovative concepts stem from a unique perspective of “Thinking Different.” With a deep appreciation for the horological heritage and a profound respect for esteemed figures like John Harrison, […]
Deployant
New: Bremont MBIII Stealth Limited Edition
Bremont releases a new collaboration with ejection seat manufacturer Martin-Baker - introducing the MBIII Stealth Limited Edition.
SJX Watches
Business News: Collector Settles with Christie’s Over “Passion for Time”
One of the most talked-about sales at last month’s Geneva auction season was Passion for Time at Christie’s, the dispersal of a collection belonging to Mohammed Zaman, an Omani businessman. The auction started almost an hour late with new estimates revised upwards, and majority of the lots sold to a third-party guarantor at the new low estimates. The guarantees and new estimates were announced by the auctioneer just before the start of the sale, as they should be, though it did little to dispel the confusion in the room. The proceedings immediately set off a frenzy online, some of it alleging misdeeds on the part of Christie’s. Most of it was unschooled speculation. Perhaps swayed by this, Mr Zaman quickly filed a lawsuit against Christie’s, leading to the watches being frozen. Two weeks on, the lawsuit has been withdrawn and Mr Zaman has resolved his dispute with Christie’s – a shrewd move in my opinion because he did well out of the sale. The 113 lots belonging to Mr Zaman achieved just under CHF38 million including fees – a result worthy of a standing ovation in the current market. Proof of the sale’s success was found two weeks later at the Hong Kong sales where prices were notably weaker than the results at Passion for Time, a testimony to the current market. The top lot at Passion for Time, the Philippe Dufour Grand Sonnerie wristwatch no. 1 that sold for CHF5.13 million including fees All’s well that ends well According to people familiar with the ...
Time+Tide
Rolex fined $100M by France’s anti-trust agency for ‘illegal’ ban on distributors selling online
Could this hold the key for improved availability, or is it just an unimportant obstacle for the Rolex machine?The post Rolex fined $100M by France’s anti-trust agency for ‘illegal’ ban on distributors selling online appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Reboots their Most Classic Dress Watch, Adding a Bracelet Option
Over the last few years, Grand Seiko has introduced a nearly nonstop stream of variants in their popular “SBGW” line of 37mm, manually wound dress watches. We’ve covered these watches at length, because we’re honestly pretty big fans. There’s a lot to like: they are based on the original Grand Seiko design language dating back to the founding of the brand, they are relatively affordable when compared to other watches in the Grand Seiko catalog, and they possess an elegant simplicity that is easy to dress up or down with a simple strap change. And of course, as time passes, there’s seemingly no end to the colors and textures that might pop up. But one thing has eluded collectors, at least many in the United States, and that’s a bracelet option. The Japanese market has long had the ability to pair this case with an elegant stainless steel bracelet, but the American collector has to jump through some hoops. That changed last week in an update to the collection could serve to reset the “SBGW” experience. The new SBGW305 sees the dress watch fashioned with a simple silver dial, and a case mounted to a five-row steel bracelet that appears to be virtually identical to the bracelet that was paired with the JDM model SBGW235. For a better look, you can check out our recent video on our team’s mutual love for Grand Seiko, where you’ll see Worn & Wound cofounder Zach Weiss guiding us through his own personal collection of Grand Seikos, which includes the SBGW2...
Teddy Baldassarre
Value My Watch: These Online Sources Will Tell You What Your Timepiece
We all love our watches, but in many collectors' lives there comes a time to part with a once-beloved timepiece - often in the service of acquiring an even more beloved one to replace it. And in that circumstance, even the most sentimental of us will turn our focus to the realities and practicalities of the marketplace. “How much is my watch worth?” becomes the burning question of every would-be seller, whether they’re eyeing an auction house like Sotheby’s or Phillips, an online marketplace like eBay, or a secondary-market resale giant like Chrono24 or WatchBox. Fortunately, in today’s well-served watch-enthusiast universe, there are many resources available to value your watch before selling it - most of which you can access without ever leaving the comfort of your sofa. Of course, much like selling a car for its maximum return, it’s essential for the owner to do his or her homework. Hopefully, you still have all the watch’s original documentation, including the manual, the bill of sale, and the box that it came in, all of which will be helpful in determining the most important elements that factor into your watch’s resale value - i.e., its brand, model, age, and condition. Even if you don’t have all these original documents, however, you can still use the watch’s serial number or reference number, which is usually engraved somewhere on the case, as a starting point to track down more of these details. Once a seller is armed with as much knowl...
Worn & Wound
Sherpa Partners with a Popular Watch Podcast for their Latest Release
While recovering from COVID, I recently watched a documentary I had heard about while listening to The Grey NATO Podcast. 14 Peaks: Nothing is impossible is the story of Nepali mountaineer Nimsdai Purja, who summited all 14 of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks in only seven months. The previous record was 7 years! Nims’ goal was to highlight the Nepalese climbing community. To this day, climbing these peaks cannot be done without the incredible endurance, courage, strength, and sheer determination of the Sherpas. It is these Sherpas that inspired Enicar in the 1950s to create dive watches that could not only withstand the depths at sea but get even more water-resistant the deeper you dove. Thus, the super-compressor was born. Sadly, Enicar did not survive the 1970s quartz crisis. Thankfully, all was not lost, as in 2019 Martin Klocke of Germany revived the Sherpa and created a brand around this model. Just like its namesake, these are proper super-compressors. Featuring many of the original features combined with modern technology and know-how across two models, the Ultradive and OPS. Now, a new version of the latter is available thanks to a collaboration with a popular watch podcast. Sherpa has teamed up with The Real Time Show podcast, hosted by industry insiders Alon Ben Joseph and Rob Nubbs, to create a sandblasted stainless-steel version of the OPS model (it was available only in polished steel or a black DLC finish previously). The result is a beautiful satin fin...
Deployant
New: Corum x Cortina Admiral 42 Automatic Black and Gold
Corum and Cortina releases a special Admiral 42 Automatic Black and Gold, only available on the shop.cortinawatch.com online store.
Time+Tide
New IWC Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month to be featured in Aquaman sequel
IWC reveals they created and delivered prop watches to be featured in the upcoming film Aquaman and the Lost Kingdom. Inspired by these prop watches, IWC have launched two new Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month watches limited to 25 pcs. for each configuration. Black 49mm Ceratanium® cases, one with red accents and another with blue … ContinuedThe post New IWC Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month to be featured in Aquaman sequel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Tiffany & Co.’s Table Clock Inspired by 1950s New York Taxicab
Now a cultural icon of New York City, Tiffany & Co. has turned to 1950s taxicabs of its home city for its latest tabletop timepiece. The Tiffany Taxi is an eight-day clock in aluminium and steel – in brand’s signature colour naturally. Taking the shape of a typical 1950s American automobile with tail fins, the Tiffany Taxi is both a timekeeper and automaton – it incorporates a time display as well as a V8 engine with moving pistons. And like past Tiffany clocks, it is made by L’Epée 1839, the go-to specialist in Switzerland for high-end clocks. Initial thoughts While primarily known for jewellery watches like its signature Bird on a Rock and double-signed Patek Philippe timepieces, the New York jeweller has recently unveiled a line of table clocks. The Tiffany Taxi is its most elaborate to date. In addition to the time display inside the engine compartment, the Taxi clock also has an “engine”, a mechanism taking the form of a V8 engine with pistons that move when the engine is “started”. Charming as it is, the Tiffany Taxi is a pricey horological novelty, with a retail price of US$50,000. It is, however, an impressive object for the desk that is particularly faithful to Tiffany’s history as a New York City institution. Inspired by midcentury cabs The Tiffany Taxi is modelled on the iconic taxicabs of New York City, in particular the Yellow Cabs made famous the world over by films about the city – but the clock is of course in the familiar Robin egg bl...
Quill & Pad
Ulysse Nardin Freak One Ops Reporting for Duty in Military Green
Many brands claim to have unique watches in their collection, but one that really owns this claim is Ulysse Nardin’s Freak. At Dubai Watch Week 2023, UN released the Freak One Ops.
Worn & Wound
Special Windup Watch Shop Sales This Week
As holiday shopping continues to ramp up and reach its fever pitch, we want to make it as easy as possible for you to find deals and discover even more value here at the Windup Watch Shop. To that end, we will be running additional promotions this week, December 18-22, on virtually every product category in the Shop. Furthermore, there are special sales running all three days: Purchase any Tissot and score a free Italian strap; Pick up a Paulin watch and receive a free Model 2 Premium strap; We’ll throw in a pair of Randolph glasses with any purchase of the new Benrus Ultra Deep. And lastly, Free Priority Domestic Shipping. We are excited to offer these, and all the specials highlighted below, as gifts to our Windup Watch Shop community. As holiday shopping continues to ramp up and reach its fever pitch, we want to make it as easy as possible for you to find deals and discover even more value here at the Windup Watch Shop. To that end, we will be running additional promotions this week, December 18-22, on virtually every product category in the Shop. Furthermore, there are special sales running all three days: Purchase any Tissot and score a free Italian strap; Pick up a Paulin watch and receive a free Model 2 Premium strap; We’ll throw in a pair of Randolph glasses with any purchase of the new Benrus Ultra Deep. And lastly, Free Priority Domestic Shipping. We are excited to offer these, and all the specials highlighted below, as gifts to our W...
W
Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Mountain Biking and Watch Photography in Santa Cruz with Luc Albert and G-SHOCK MOVE
The post Mountain Biking and Watch Photography in Santa Cruz with Luc Albert and G-SHOCK MOVE appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Hodinkee
Watch Spotting: Shohei Ohtani Wears Grand Seiko During His Record-Breaking Dodgers Announcement
Plus, a familiar face shows us the kind of watch you can buy after retiring as an all-time great.
Time+Tide
5 of our favourite Universal Genève references
Borna explores some unexpected and rare Universal Genève models, alongside fan-favourites.The post 5 of our favourite Universal Genève references appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Watch Prize Reveals Finalists
The shortlist of five finalists has just been announced for the first ever Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives, an award that seeks to recognise and reward notable independent watchmakers. Selected from the 20 semi-finalists by the award’s committee of experts, a line-up of over 40 notables that included Benjamin Clymer of Hodinkee, author Nick Foulkes, Kari Voutilainen, and collector Mike Shanlikian, the five finalist watches and their makers will be judged by a jury of five who will ultimately decide the winner at a meeting on February 6, 2024. The five finalists are: Tischkalender Sympathique – Andreas Strehler RP1 – Régulateur à détente – Raúl Pagès L’Abeille Mécanique – John-Mikaël Flaux Reference 2941 – Petermann Bédat Chronometre Artisans – Simon Brette And the winner will be selected from these five by the jury of Carole Forstier Kasapi, head of movement development at TAG Heuer; collector and author Auro Montanari; retailer Michael Tay of The Hour Glass; watchmaker Rexhep Rexhepi; and our founder Jiaxian Su. These five members were voted into their role by the committee of experts for this role. The eventual winner will receive a year-long mentorship at La Fabrique du Temps in order to further develop his creations, as well as a prize of €150,000. More about the finalists All five of these pieces are deserving of recognition and only go to highlight the vibrant market for independent creations we currently have. One of the...
Quill & Pad
Alpina Alpiner Extreme Regulator: A Lot of Bang for your Buck! – Reprise
After spending a few days with the Alpina Alpiner Extreme Regulator, Martin Green felt it was good looking, comfortable to wear and offers a lot of bang for your buck!
SJX Watches
Review: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface
Unveiled earlier this year as part of its retrograde-theme collection, the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface is self explanatory: it combines a tourbillon, retrograde date, along with a self-winding movement. And in contrast to many date indications that are almost an afterthought, this presents the date in an elaborate, thoughtful manner. A clear sapphire dial shows off the retrograde mechanism, along with the base plate of the movement that’s been decorated with linear guilloche. And at six o’clock sits the tourbillon, with the cage in the Maltese cross emblem of Vacheron Constantin (VC), secured by a traditional bridge of polished steel. Initial thoughts Classically-styled watches sometimes suffer from the addition of a date display; dates often get in the way of the design or just don’t fit in. The Tourbillon Retrograde Date, in contrast, benefits from it. While the tourbillon might be the headline feature of the watch, and the peripheral winding the most novel, the retrograde date is the most appealing mechanical detail. Retrograde displays are amongst the most striking dial-side complications because they are composed of parts in varying shapes, which allows them to be both beautiful and intricate when executed correctly, and here the date certainly is. Despite being a simple function in itself, the date is executed well – it is finely constructed and finished. The components of the retrograde display are clearly designe...
Quill & Pad
Book Review: Modern Caribbean Rum by Matt Pietrek and Carrie Smith
‘Modern Caribbean Rum’. has already been dubbed the bible on the subject. The first thing you are going to notice about this book is its size. It is massive!
Time+Tide
I just bought my exit watch… WTF do I do now?
Zach encounters a true first-world watch problem after acquiring a grail.The post I just bought my exit watch… WTF do I do now? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.