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De Bethune & Urwerk Introduce the Moon Satellite for Only Watch 2019 SJX Watches
De Bethune & Urwerk Introduce Sep 23, 2019

De Bethune & Urwerk Introduce the Moon Satellite for Only Watch 2019

When Urwerk cofounder Felix Baumgartner was in town recently to launch the UR-100 SpaceTime, I quizzed him on the De Bethune and Urwerk collaboration for Only Watch 2019. While the other brands taking part in the charity auction had already unveiled photos or renderings of their respective creations, Urwerk and De Bethune only offered a pen drawing. Felix replied that the movement had been completed and delivered to De Bethune some weeks ago, and Denis Flageollet, De Bethune’s resident technical genius, was working on building the one-off titanium case. And now Mr Flageollet has completed the watch, and this is it. The initial drawing The meeting of minds Named the Moon Satellite, the watch is essentially an Urwerk wandering hours time display module – with the time indicated on satellites – mounted on top of a hand-wound De Bethune movement, resulting in the cal. DBUR2105. Visually the movement is trademark De Bethune. The calibre has a delta-shaped barrel bridge that is entirely mirror polished, as is the base plate, one of the most distinctive movement treatments of De Bethune. And in striking contrast against the polished surfaces, the balance and shock absorber bridges are in blued steel. The base movement cal. DB2105 boasts several of De Bethune’s patented innovations, including a spider-like titanium balance wheel, the triple pare-chute shock absorber for the balance, as well as the De Bethune hairspring and silicon escape wheel. And it also incorporat...

Zenith takes on GPHG 2019 with 5 seriously hot watches Time+Tide
Zenith takes Sep 20, 2019

Zenith takes on GPHG 2019 with 5 seriously hot watches

It isn’t hard to imagine that Zenith is probably feeling pretty darn confident about being given more than one award at this year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. Not least for the fact that five of the Swiss marque’s timepieces have been given the nod by the prestigious event’s judges across no fewer than five … ContinuedThe post Zenith takes on GPHG 2019 with 5 seriously hot watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Millenary Frosted Gold Philosophique SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Sep 17, 2019

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Millenary Frosted Gold Philosophique

Audemars Piguet’s latest watch for ladies is an elegant complication, or more specifically, a simplification with a twist. Inspired by a wristwatch from the 1980s, the Millenary Frosted Gold Philosophique has only a single hand for the hours, and nothing else. But the hour hand doesn’t travel in a circle, instead it traces the oval shape of the case. Single-handed pocket watches already existed in the 18th century, when the precise time was not a concern for most people. But Audemars Piguet revived the concept in 1982 with the original Philosophique, a one-handed wristwatch styled like a pocket watch, with its crown at 12 o’clock. Though it was a men’s watch, the original Philosophique is tiny by modern standards, measuring just 32mm in diameter, making it significantly smaller than today’s Millenary Philosophique for ladies. Available in white or pink gold, the Millenary Frosted Gold Philosophique features a striking, contrast case finish of granular “frosted gold” and mirror-polished surfaces. Inspired by Florentine jewellery, the frosted surface is achieved by hand, with a sharp tool that creates tiny indentations on the gold. The dial is finished with an irregular “hammer-like” surface, echoing the case decoration. But more intriguing than the decoration is the trajectory of the hour hand. Instead of travelling in a circle, the hour hand follows an elliptical path, tracing the outline of the oval Millenary case. This is possible because the hour...

Bremont Martin-Baker Timepieces: And You Only Have To Be Ejected From A Jet Fighter To Get One! Quill & Pad
Bremont Martin-Baker Timepieces Sep 10, 2019

Bremont Martin-Baker Timepieces: And You Only Have To Be Ejected From A Jet Fighter To Get One!

What does it feel like to eject from a jet fighter? Imagine yourself motoring down the autobahn in a convertible doing 600 miles per hour. Now stand up. Chris Malburg talks with owners of Bremont’s most exclusive timepiece – the MB1 – and their jet fighter ejection experiences qualifying them to wear this one-of-a-kind watch.

RECOMMENDED READING: The complete Casio G-Shock buying guide Time+Tide
Rolex or Patek Adding Sep 9, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: The complete Casio G-Shock buying guide

I don’t know about you, but I find navigating Casio’s iconic and uber-tough G-Shock family a tricky process. It’s a reference number dominated space which, to the outsider, is every bit as confusing as the worlds of vintage Rolex or Patek. Adding to the complexity is the sheer profusion of models. Limited editions, collaborations and … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: The complete Casio G-Shock buying guide appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: This is what the auction business looks like in the Instagram age Time+Tide
Sep 5, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: This is what the auction business looks like in the Instagram age

The other day, Phillips announced Phillips PERPETUAL, an always-on showroom of curated horological goodness. Because while blockbuster sales of celebrity pieces have a place, the opportunity for mass volume sales and Phillips, along with the other major auction players is jumping at it. For an in-depth look at the ever-changing business of selling very fine … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: This is what the auction business looks like in the Instagram age appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Louis Vuitton Tambour All Black Chronograph 46 Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Tambour All Black Chronograph Sep 3, 2019

HANDS-ON: Louis Vuitton Tambour All Black Chronograph 46

One of the malaises sweeping the Swiss watch industry is, in my oh-so-humble opinion, that of homogeneity. From a distance, the world from the wrist down looks remarkably similar: round, black-dialled steel sports cases in a style that sits somewhere on a spectrum between vaguely retro to full-blown reissue. I’m well aware that this isn’t … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Louis Vuitton Tambour All Black Chronograph 46 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED READING: An in-depth look at one of the most important timepieces ever made  Time+Tide
Breguet commissioned Sep 2, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: An in-depth look at one of the most important timepieces ever made 

Much to the chagrin of watch brand marketing departments, the list of timepieces of genuine historical significance is pretty small. Actual moon watches, the Breguet commissioned with Marie Antoinette in mind, and, of course, the works of John Harrison.  Even if you’re not an aficionado of 18th century horological science (and TBH we don’t hold … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: An in-depth look at one of the most important timepieces ever made  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

You Are There: Monterey Car Week 2019 With Singer Reimagined And H. Moser & Cie Quill & Pad
H. Moser & Cie GaryG has Aug 30, 2019

You Are There: Monterey Car Week 2019 With Singer Reimagined And H. Moser & Cie

GaryG has been to Monterey Car Week around 20 times now to meet up with friends and enjoy the array of cars and, more recently, watches on display. While in recent years they have focused on the “big” events at The Quail and Pebble Beach, this year the group decided to add some variety and go off the beaten path a bit – with satisfying results.

RECOMMENDED READING: Breaking down the hype behind the Omega Aqua Terra Ultra Light Time+Tide
Omega Aqua Terra Ultra Light Aug 28, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Breaking down the hype behind the Omega Aqua Terra Ultra Light

The headlines this week have been full of Omega’s latest Aqua Terra, the very matt, very lightweight Omega Aqua Terra Ultra Light. The major selling point has been its light weight of 55 grams, a new alloy and its fancy new disappearing crown trick. It’s made with golf in mind, but the potential is more … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Breaking down the hype behind the Omega Aqua Terra Ultra Light appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Citizen Promaster NY0080-12E - scratching an itch with a spiky bezel Time+Tide
Citizen Promaster NY0080-12E – scratching Aug 23, 2019

The Citizen Promaster NY0080-12E - scratching an itch with a spiky bezel

It’s probably a bit generous to call me a ‘collector’, but as I continue on this journey, I’m discovering that I genuinely enjoy meaningful attempts by companies to do something different. In today’s expanded universe of microbrands and industry stalwarts, it can take a lot to stand out, but it takes even more to stand … ContinuedThe post The Citizen Promaster NY0080-12E – scratching an itch with a spiky bezel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing the Stowa x RAW Darth Pilot SJX Watches
Stowa Aug 23, 2019

Introducing the Stowa x RAW Darth Pilot

A Singapore retailer that focuses on affordable, unusual timepieces, Red Army Watches (RAW) is marking its 15th year in business with a series of limited editions, made in collaboration with brands that personify its ethos. Last month the Gorilla Fastback “RAW Celebratory Edition” was launched, and this month sees the debut of the Stowa x RAW Darth Pilot, an all-black aviator’s watch. Stowa is, of course, the German watchmaker that is well loved for its accessible watches, mostly priced below US$1500. The brand was resurrected by its current owner, Jorge Schauer, in 1997, but was first established in 1927 by Walter Storz; the brand name is a contraction of “STOrz WAlter”. In its original incarnation Stowa was one of the five watch brands that supplied the oversized beobachtungshr, or B-Uhr for short, to the Luftwaffe, the German air force of the second world war. A smaller, contemporary B-Uhr Watches inspired by the vintage B-Uhr are now a key model line for Stowa, and the RAW Darth Pilot is based on the standard Stowa Verus, which is a modern take on the original Baumuster A B-Uhr. Compared to the vintage original, all the dial markings are larger, while the typography and hashmarks are rounded, as are the hands, giving it a more modern look. Most aviator-style watches are oversized and chunky, but the standard Verus is a compact 40mm in diameter (Stowa also offers an extra-large 43mm version of the Verus). And the all-black finish gives it an even smaller...

ANNOUNCING: Complete the Time+Tide 2019 Reader Survey, have a chance at winning a TAG Heuer Autavia Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Autavia Welcome Aug 22, 2019

ANNOUNCING: Complete the Time+Tide 2019 Reader Survey, have a chance at winning a TAG Heuer Autavia

Welcome to the Time+Tide 2019 Reader Survey! That time when we put some hard-hitting questions into a survey program, work some internet magic and set it free, for all you good people out there to answer. One lucky Australian survey respondent will win a TAG Heuer Autavia chronograph for their troubles. Take the survey now … ContinuedThe post ANNOUNCING: Complete the Time+Tide 2019 Reader Survey, have a chance at winning a TAG Heuer Autavia appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

11 reasons MB&F; are important for all watch lovers Time+Tide
MB&F; Aug 18, 2019

11 reasons MB&F; are important for all watch lovers

Editor’s note: The darling of the independent watch space, MB&F; show no signs of slowing their release of weird and wonderful watches. Timepieces that often elicit a confused reception at first glance, MB&F; clocks and watches become more delightful the longer you look at them, as you realise the playfulness at the heart of their … ContinuedThe post 11 reasons MB&F; are important for all watch lovers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The ultimate watch glossary - the lowdown on watch buckles, clasps and all the rest Time+Tide
Aug 16, 2019

The ultimate watch glossary - the lowdown on watch buckles, clasps and all the rest

In the latest instalment of our glossary series (you can see all our educational style content here), we tackle one of the most overlooked (and most important) elements of a watch. The bit that attached it to your wrist – buckles and clasps in all their forms …  The tang buckle, also known as the … ContinuedThe post The ultimate watch glossary – the lowdown on watch buckles, clasps and all the rest appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.