4,118 articles · 583 videos found · page 128 of 157
Quill & Pad
Tim Mosso breaks down and highlights some of his favorite timepieces from Geneva Watch Days 2024, including the Longines Legend Diver, De Bethune DBxs Aérolite, Oris Aquis Chronograph, Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Date Malachite, and more!
WatchAdvice
Somewhere in between dress and sports, the new Baume & Mercier Classima may be in a class of its own, but how does this piece traverse daily life? What we Love Classic and elegant looks The deep blue dial Has the right amount of wrist presence What We Don’t The rotor movement is a little noise The chronograph pushers are on the stiff side The crystal is on the thinner side, reducing the solid feeling of the watch Overall Rating: 8/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 7.5/10 In a recent article, I delved into the history of Baume & Mercier, and the brand today, like many watch brands with almost two centuries worth of history, is different from the one started back in 1830 by the two Baume Brothers. Over the decades, and now centuries, it has evolved from a brand that was specialising in high complications and winning awards at The Kew Watch Trials, to being a solid mid-entry level player in the Swiss watch industry. This is a similar story to many others out there, and this is not a negative thing by any stretch, it’s just the way the world works – watches and other industries alike. William Baume and Paul Mercier, the founders of what is now known as Baume et Mercier, which evolved out of the original Baume & Co brand set up in 1830 by William’s Grandfather and Great Uncle. The pioneers of the brands and industries were just that, pioneers and the inventors of their time. Nowadays, you still need this, but more so, you need ...
SJX Watches
Founded by the namesake father and son duo, Biver has just debuted its second model, the Biver Automatique. Though a simple a time-only watch with central seconds, in contrast to the preceding Carillon Tourbillon, the Automatique is equipped with an elaborately executed movement that’s arguably the most impressive recent automatic. Besides decorative touches like guilloche on the bridges, the JCB-003 also features details like a grande sonnerie-style winding click. The calibre is paired with a comparably elaborately constructed dial with solid gold appliqués that’s available in a variety of materials, including mineral stone like Pietersite. The JCB-003 Initial thoughts The Automatique is clearly meant to showcase the brand’s ability to create a highly finished and refined time-only watch that can compete with more established producers, both in terms of the movement as well as habillage (namely the dial and case). The highlight of the Automatique is the JCB-003 movement. Developed in partnership with movement specialist Dubois Depraz, the JCB-003 is quite possibly the most refined micro rotor movement on the market today. Though it is functionally simple, the movement boasts decorative and technical details along with a high level of finishing. The over-engineered caliber is meant to serve as a base for future complications, which makes sense considering the high cost involved in constructing such a movement. Amongst the calibre’s notable details is the grande so...
Worn & Wound
If you’d told me eighteen months ago that the TAG Heuer Carrera would, in very short order, find itself once again at the center of enthusiast interest, there’s a very good chance I’d have laughed you out of the room. And yet, here we sit, 17 months on from the release of the Carrera ‘Glassbox’ and there can be no doubt - thanks in part to an expanded lineup of compelling variants of the 39mm chronograph, as well as exciting interpretations like the widely discussed and sought after Seafarer LE for HODINKEE - that TAG Heuer’s signature chronograph is one of the hottest watches on the market. But the Glassbox is only one side of the Carrera story. Now, TAG Heuer is leaning into the other side with the unveiling of a new technical chronograph. Where the Carrera ‘Glassbox’ looks to the history of the Carrera, the new Carrera Extreme Sport - introduced as a collection of six watches spread across two models: the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Extreme Sport and the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport - present a vision of the future and a bold one at that. The two new models share a lot in common, most notably a shared aesthetic and case design. Both the Chronograph Extreme Sport and the Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport measure 44mm across, 15.1mm thick, and 49.7mm lug-to-lug. Certainly not small, but also decidedly wearable for a chronograph meant to wear large. The lug-to-lug measure, in particular, is deceptively compact and shou...
Monochrome
First presented in 2019 as a steel limited edition, the Blancpain Air Command Flyback Chronograph was a re-edition of an elusive vintage watch that barely made it to reality. Yet, using one of the rare prototypes as a blueprint, the brand known for the elegant Villeret collection and the historic Fifty Fathoms diving range did […]
Quill & Pad
For a brand to have even two watches shortlisted in the annual Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) is a rare achievement. But in the 2024 GPHG, Parmigiani Fleurier has not two, not three, not four, not five but an incredible six difference watches shortlisted over six different categories: Men’s, Time Only, Ladies, Sports, Chronograph, and Calendar and Astronomy.
Monochrome
Following its revival in 2011, Angelus has focused on building an impressive series of purpose-built movements. In 2022, Angelus introduced the Chronodate with a bi-compax chronograph and pointer date combo. While the Chronodate references the brand’s 1942 model when Angelus was enjoying its heyday as a leading manufacture of chronographs, the reinterpretation is contemporary. For […]
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne’s is marking the 25th anniversary of its iconic chronograph with a series of limited editions, including the fresh-off-the-press Datograph Handwerkskunst. And now the brand has just announced a one-of-a-kind model that will be sold to benefit charity, the Datograph Up/Down “Hampton Court Edition”. In white gold with a dial in grey and black – plus a matching white gold bracelet – the one-off Datograph continues the tradition of periodic unique pieces to benefit The Prince’s Trust, a United Kingdom charity that aids at-risk youth. The last Hampton Court Edition was an 1815 Chronograph in white gold with a black dial. Initial thoughts In some ways this is similar to the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen” in being a compilation of Lange’s greatest hits. An iconic model with a unique and appealing dial, along with a weighty solid gold bracelet, make this watch easily appealing. The grey, black, and red dial make this the sportiest Datograph ever, a look that is further accentuated with the gold bracelet. The aesthetic also suits the classic car theme of the watch. Like to sell for high-six, or even low-seven, figures, the Hampton Court Edition will easily become one of the most expensive Lange wristwatches ever sold. Concluding the anniversary The Hampton Court Edition is the final Datograph launched for the model’s 25th anniversary and is in some senses a variant of the Datograph Up/Down 25th Anniversary, which shares the sa...
SJX Watches
Tudor’s latest release is the Black Bay Chrono Blue, a boutique-exclusive with a familiar “Panda” dial with snowflake hands, but now in “Tudor Blue”. Just like its pink dial, limited production counterpart, the new chronograph is equipped with a “5-link” bracelet, which is basically Tudor’s version of the Jubilee bracelet. Initial thoughts Tudor is a brand that combines appealing, functional design with historical basis – and an exceptional price-performance ratio. Though still excellent value, the Black Bay Chrono Blue is not revolutionary; the only novel element is the blue dial. However, it remains a strong option for anyone looking for affordable sports chronograph with a high-spec movement. I prefer the look of the original black-and-silver “Panda” dial, but I would lean towards the new variant simply because it is the only regular production model equipped with the “5-link” bracelet that pairs well with the design. Priced at US$5,675, the Black Bay Chrono Blue is a great value proposition. Its strongest feature is the COSC-certified MT5813, a calibre based on Breitling’s B01 but upgraded significantly by Tudor and likely the best chronograph movement at this price point. Tudor blue The stainless steel case is 41 mm in diameter and 14.4 mm in thickness. Water resistant to 200 m, the case features a screw-down crown engraved with the Tudor rose logo and screw-down pushers. The case is satin-brushed on its tops, and mirror-polished on its sid...
SJX Watches
For the milestone anniversary of its famed chronograph, A. Lange & Söhne hasn’t held back on commemorative editions. Starting with the Datograph Up/Down in blue and then the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen”, the German brand now concludes the anniversary with the third and final celebratory edition, the Datograph Handwerkskunst. A finely executed watch that will instinctively appeal to Lange fans, the yellow gold Datograph Handwerkskunst is unsurprising given the occasion. And like past Handwerkskunst editions – this is the eighth watch in the Handwerkskunst series – it is relatively inaccessible: the watch is limited to just 25 pieces and substantially pricier than the regular production Datograph. The L951.8 in the Datograph Handwerkskunst Initial thoughts The original Datograph set the benchmark for a high-end, classical chronograph movement when it was launched in 1999. Exceptional both aesthetically and technically, then and now, the Datograph remains equally impressive 25 years later. The Datograph Handwerkskunst has all the familiar traits that defined the model for the past 25 years. On top of that, it has an artisanally decorated dial finished with tremblage. And more significantly, the movement gets a substantial extra dose of black polishing on all the chronograph levers, enhancing an already impressive chronograph calibre. Notably, the Datograph Handwerkskunst returns to the Datograph design of 1999. The tremblage dial has the neo-c...
Worn & Wound
Well, it wouldn’t be Geneva Watch Days without some wild new release from Massena LAB. Last year, the well-known design house partnered with Sylvain Pinaud to offer up a take on Pinaud’s modern marvel of a chronograph. This year, they’re looking back, joining with a brand new independent watchmaker making their debut at Geneva Watch Days, Albishorn, to give us something a little different. Albishorn, as I said, is a brand new indie brand with a unique focus - creating what they call “imaginary vintage” watches that bend watchmaking history to create something a little different. Their inaugural release, produced in partnership with Massena LAB, imagines a hypothetical late 1930s regatta chronograph (or regatta timer if you prefer), inspired by Le Bol d’Or Mirabaud - the world’s largest inland lake regatta, first run in 1939 on Lac Léman. A quick glance at the new Albishorn x Massena LAB Maxigraph will leave vintage heads with a clear sense of origin. The new watch clearly pulls design language from Rolex’s iconic Zerographe chronographs, the early predecessor to now iconic watches like the Daytona. The watch’s dial layout is also reminiscent of World War II multi-scale chronographs, and the mono-pusher layout certainly invokes a vintage charm. Obviously, this is not a genuine vintage watch, and certain details of the Maxigraph betray that. The execution feels quite modern, with sharply machined elements like the stark red pusher on the case flank, mu...
Monochrome
Founded in 1884 and celebrating its 140th anniversary this year, Breitling is no stranger to innovation and important milestones. In 1915, it launched the first wrist-worn chronograph with an independent pusher. In 1934, it patented a watch with a second independent pusher. In 1969, it participated in the creation of one of the first automatic […]
Fratello
This past June, Breitling invited me to its Chronometrie facility in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland. The tour offered an opportunity to see the various Breitling manufacture calibers in different production states. The meticulous yet efficient nature of the assembly leads to a robust and reliable B01 chronograph movement along with modules for calendar and GMT functions. […] Visit Breitling Celebrates Its 140th Anniversary With A Trio Of Gold Flagship Watches to read the full article.
Hodinkee
A classic Tudor colorway for the brand's dive chronograph.
Monochrome
First presented in 2017, the Tudor Black Bay Chrono surprised a bit the brand’s fans with its mix of classic dive watch elements (solid water-resistance and snowflake hands) and racing cues, with the chronograph function and external tachymeter bezel. Multiple editions of this watch will follow, all powered by a Breitling-derived automatic movement, including the […]
Time+Tide
Resplendent in Tudor Blue, this chronograph nods to vintage models like the Submariner "Snowflake" and Oysterdate Chronograph "Montecarlo".The post The dressed-down Tudor Black Bay Chrono Blue nods to iconic 70s Tudor watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
This year, IWC brings the emblematic Portugieser collection under the spotlight, introducing several stunning new additions to the collection, including the impressive Eternal Calendar and updates to several iconic models, such as the chronograph and the 7-day Automatic. On the occasion of Watches and Wonders Shanghai, the brand unveils a new version of its Portugieser […]
Monochrome
The Villeret Collection of Blancpain comprises the brand’s most classic and elegant timepieces. They offer a wide range of functions, from the basic time-only models to more complex complications like the minute repeater, perpetual calendar, dual-time zone, chronograph, and more. Recognizable by their distinctive double-stepped case design, these watches are a testament to aesthetic excellence. […]
Deployant
Introducing the OMEGA Seamaster Diver 300M America's Cup, the brand's latest to commemorate its maritime heritage. This timepiece celebrates OMEGA's role as the Official Timekeeper of the 37th America's Cup with a design that's as functional as it is aesthetic, featuring a regatta countdown bezel and the iconic America's Cup trophy silhouette on the seconds hand.
SJX Watches
A tribute to the Japanese anime and manga series, about an alien robot, the PRX UFO Robot Grendizer Special Edition is the latest variant of Tissot’s bestselling sports watch. It’s based on the standard PRX 40 mm and incorporates elements of the anime series, including a blue dial with a stamped motif of the titular robot and a seconds hand with a counterweight in the shape of Grenadier’s bladed weapon. Initial thoughts Although the update to the model is only cosmetic, the collaboration makes sense, especially given the affordable nature of the watch. With the obvious elements from the cartoon, the Grendizer theme is obvious and just right for an accessible sports watch. This is undoubtedly a unique take on the original PRX, but the fact that the Grendizer aesthetic is so strongly present might actually deter those who aren’t fans of the cartoon. Priced at US$825, the PRX Grendizer is a good value proposition, just like the standard model. In fact, for someone looking for a PRX that’s different – the standard model is a bit generic – this is much more compelling for essentially the same price. A giant flying robot The Grendizer edition has exactly the same dimensions as the standard model. The steel case is 40 mm in diameter and 10.9 mm in thickness, satin-brushed on top with mirror-polished bevels along the edges of the case flank. Featuring an integrated bracelet, it wears smaller than it measures due to the slim case profile. Unlike the standard model, ho...
Monochrome
On the occasion of Porsche launching the 911 992.2 Hybrid, Porsche Design introduced a new watch collection to its custom-built program. Mechanically based on the previous generation of the Globetimer, Porsche Design now puts it in the titanium case of the chronograph. Made to order, and with tons of custom options on offer, you can […]
Monochrome
Presented last year by Longines as the flagship model in its recent pilot-oriented collection, the Spirit Flyback paid tribute to an important function for the brand, the retour-en-vol chronograph. While the authorship of the flyback complication is a topic that is still discussed, the winged hourglass brand produced its first model equipped with a flyback […]
Fratello
Since its introduction in 2020, the Longines Spirit collection has become very popular. That’s understandable due to its modern design and great finishing. It also helps that many different versions cater to anyone’s needs. In 2023, Longines added a Spirit Flyback alongside its regular Spirit Chronograph. Upon its release, the Spirit Flyback was available in […] Visit Introducing: The Longines Spirit Flyback In Steel And Gold, Green, And Brown to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Earlier this year Jaeger-LeCoultre unveiled the refreshed Duometre line, with the entry into the new collection being the Duometre Quantieme Lunaire, the only steel model in the line-up so far. The dual train movement is used to power two separate sets of indications, one is the time with hours, minutes, and seconds, and the other a combination of the date, moon phase, and lightning seconds. Made up of several models sporting an all-new look, this year’s Duometre collection is the first substantial facelift of the model line since its launch in 2007. While the original models had an aesthetic that brought to mind A. Lange & Söhne, the redesigned Duometre models have a more vintage-ish look that incorporates elements that are popular today, including a domed crystal and decorative recesses on the lugs. In terms of mechanical function, however, the new Duometre models are fundamentally the same. The “duo” barrels of the Duometre Initial thoughts The new look is a good one. It’s attractive and still fairly original; although it is vintage inspired, the design avoids looking generic, thanks in part to the distinctive Duometre dial layout. The domed crystal and dial result in the new model looking slightly bigger than the original, but at the same time it feels thinner. The dial layout is essentially the same as on the earlier generation Quantieme Lunaire as the movement is essentially identical. The recognisable double barrels-and-trains construction is evident, wh...
Monochrome
It’s common knowledge that the vast majority of watches use centrally mounted hands continuously rotating 360 degrees in a clockwise direction to tell time down to the hours and minutes, and most often the seconds. Often the seconds indication is moved to 6′ or 9′ and has its own separate sub-dial, but that pretty much […]
Deployant
The Stowa Verus GMT Chrono Black Forest Limited Edition marks Stowa's commitment to craftsmanship and design. This timepiece, limited to only 10 pieces, features a modern and military aesthetic with a highly functional approach. It houses a Valjoux 7754 chronograph movement with an uncommon single minute subdial and GMT handstack.
Monochrome
Today I’m bringing you a genuine slice of American motorcycle culture, plus a proper Swiss-made chronograph watch to go along with it. I’m talking about the sinister Indian Sport Chief and the mouth-watering Lebois & Co. Heritage Chronograph Indian Motorcycles Edition. At first, it might seem like an odd pairing, and there’s no prior history […]
Worn & Wound
Things have changed an awful lot since the last time I reviewed a watch by Furlan Marri. That was all the way back in March 2021, and it was their debut release. It’s worth pointing out that at the time, the brand had virtually no public footprint, and I had to be somewhat cajoled into taking the assignment. But the humble, meca-quartz chronograph that put them on the map was genuinely impressive in the way it conveyed vintage watch design codes in an affordable package that, somehow, felt premium. I remember thinking that for the price Furlan Marri was asking for that watch (a pre-order deal of $330) you’d be hard pressed to find anything with better finishing or a more coherent point of view about what it’s trying to accomplish. Just a few years later, and Furlan Marri is in a very different position. It happened fast. Those meca-quartz chronos hit the market and were an immediate sensation, getting the thumbs up from John Goldberger and other notable collectors. It put an immediate heir of legitimacy around Furlan Marri, something that the best small brands get eventually, but not typically with such speed. When your debut watch, a battery powered homage that costs a few hundred dollars, is selling for many times its retail price on the secondary market, heads start turning rather quickly. $2780 Review: the Furlan Marri Disco Volante Case Stainless steel Movement Peseux 7001 Dial Celeste (blue/white), Verde (green/cream) Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Leather Wa...
Hodinkee
It's one of the closest Olympic finishes in history. Let's look at how close 0.005 seconds really is.
Quill & Pad
MB&F; movement constructor for LM Perpetual,Stephen McDonnell’s focus was split between ease of use, durability, and packaging. Ease of use comes in the form of an independent corrector for each of the day, date, month, and leap year. Unlike most perpetual calendars, the MB&F; LM Perpetual has a permanent freestanding button for advancing each display; no separate tool is required.
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