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The 1985 Swatch Consolidation

How Nicolas Hayek\'s ASUAG/SSIH merger (1983) and Swatch brand launch (March 1983) rescued Swiss watchmaking from the quartz crisis.
Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Ceramic One “Only Watch” SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces Jul 1, 2019

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Ceramic One “Only Watch”

Continuing the tradition of one of a kind dive watches for Only Watch that started in 2015, Tudor has just unveiled the Black Bay Ceramic One. Entirely clad in matte black but composed of several different materials, the Black Bay Ceramic One is starkly different from any other Tudor dive watch. The 41mm case is made of ceramic, while the bezel is black-coated titanium fitted with a ceramic bezel insert. Both the case back and crown and black-coated steel, but the back is unusual – it’s the only Tudor watch with a display back aside from the little loved North Flag. The sapphire back reveals the MT5602 movement, a “manufacture” calibre with 70-hour power reserve and silicon hairspring. The dial is all-black to match, with the markings and text printed in glossy back to distinguish them from the matte black dial surface. The hands and hour markers are filled with black Super-Luminova, which will glow green in the dark, albeit dimly. And the strap is rubber, but lined on the top with matte black alligator, which is the same construction as the rubber-calf strap found on the recently launched Black Bay P01. The Black Bay Ceramic One (ref. M7921/001CN) has an estimate of 4,500-5,500 Swiss francs. If past Tudor watches made for Only Watch are anything to go by, it will blow right past the estimate straight out of the gate and probably finish just over 300,000 Swiss francs. It’ll be sold on November 9, 2019 at Christie’s in Geneva. Visit onlywatch.com for the ...

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Introducing the Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain “Only Watch” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Star Calibre 2000 pocket Jul 1, 2019

Introducing the Akrivia Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain “Only Watch”

Akrivia’s entry for Only Watch 2019 is a unique variant of its critically acclaimed Chronomètre Contemporain but with an added bonus – the platinum case is made by storied case specialist Jean-Pierre Hagmann. The first outing at Only Watch for Akrivia and its founder Rexhep Rexhepi, the unique Chronomètre Contemporain is equipped with a dial made of grey-blue fired enamel featuring white enamel markings. But the dial is unusual for having a hand-hammered finish, a decoration typically only applied to gold dials, giving it a granular surface. The view from the back of the 38mm platinum case is identical to that of the standard model, save for the “JHP” hallmark on the lower right lug. It’s short for Jean-Pierre Hagmann, a semiretired case maker who was responsible for some of the most exquisite watch cases of the 1980s and 1990s. Amongst his work is the incredibly complex case of the Patek Philippe Star Calibre 2000 pocket watch. The Chronomètre Contemporain “Only Watch” is the first watch to emerge from the recently inked collaboration between Akrivia and Mr Hagmann. Stay tuned for more on this. The Chronomètre Contemporain “Only Watch” has an estimate of 40,000-60,000 Swiss francs, and will go under the hammer on November 9, 2019 at Christie’s in Geneva.  The complete Only Watch 2019 collection can be seen on onlywatch.com.  

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Patek Philippe Debuts the Grandmaster Chime “Only Watch” in Stainless Steel SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Debuts Jul 1, 2019

Patek Philippe Debuts the Grandmaster Chime “Only Watch” in Stainless Steel

The subject of rumour since Baselworld 2019, the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A-010 in stainless steel is finally official. Almost certainly on track to become the most expensive watch sold at auction in 2019, the ref. 6300A is a one of a kind watch variant of the most complicated Patek Philippe wristwatch ever made that was created for Only Watch, the biennial charity auction of unique timepieces sold to benefit a medical charity. Aside from the steel case – the Grandmaster Chime is ordinarily available only in white gold – both dials on each side of the watch are also unique. The dial on the front is made of 18k rose gold, and features a hobnail guilloche centre and blackened 18k gold Breguet numerals. “The Only One” is printed within the 12 o’clock sub-dial just to make it clear that this is, well, the only one for Only Watch. Also made of 18k gold, the reverse dial is black with rose gold-plated hands. The rest of the watch is identical to the standard version. The enormous 47.7mm case is reversible, but being in steel will be significantly lighter than the gold model. The case band is decorated with a hobnail guilloche engraved by a hand-operated rose engine Inside is the cal. 300 GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM, a hand-wound movement with 20 complications, including a grande and petite sonnerie, alarm, date repeater, and instantaneous perpetual calendar. Slated to go on the block on November 9, 2019 at Christie’s Geneva, the Grandmaster Chi...

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Haven Watch Co. Introduces the Chilton Chronograph SJX Watches
Jun 28, 2019

Haven Watch Co. Introduces the Chilton Chronograph

Based in the American Midwest, Haven Watch Co. makes its debut with the Chilton, an eye-catching, hand-wound chronograph that’s a blend of retro design elements and affordably priced. The watches takes inspiration from the 1970s, perhaps the golden age of sports watches, and specifically, the funky designs and bold colours of the era’s regatta timers. Despite the incongruent combination of design features, the watch is refreshing and captures the bold, experimental spirit of the 1970s. Beyond the design, the Chilton is notable for being the first watch on the market powered by the new, hand-wound, “compax” chronograph movement from Sellita. While the movement is Swiss made, the external components like the case and dial are made in Asia, and the watches are put together in the United States. The Chilton is available on either a blue or white dial with a “compax” layout, both of which feature the same regatta-style 30-minute register that is divided into 10-minute segments. It doesn’t have an actual countdown function, of course, but vintage aesthetics, and not utility, motivate the design. The chronograph counters are small and far apart, just as it was on vintage chronographs, albeit ones that came long before the 1970s.  And if the chunky hands look familiar, they are similar to those found on the Universal Geneva Compax “Nina Rindt”. The vintage styling also explains the decimal scale on the blue dial and pulsometer scale on the white. T...

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RECOMMENDED READING: Peculiar economics of the vintage watch market Time+Tide
Jun 25, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Peculiar economics of the vintage watch market

The watch auction market has hit serious momentum over the last four or five years, with record-breaking results being produced every season. While a portion of the soaring prices can be attributed to macro factors - such as democratised information on vintage watches through the explosion of sites that cover the topic - this isn’t the whole … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Peculiar economics of the vintage watch market appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The ultimate watch glossary – advanced edition. Beat rates, pallets and more Time+Tide
Jun 22, 2019

The ultimate watch glossary – advanced edition. Beat rates, pallets and more

Editor’s note: If you missed instalments one and two of our glossary, you might want to quickly check them out, because now we’re in part three, we’re starting to get a little more technical. We’re moving beyond the basic parts and starting to explore how they operate together. Tick tock. Escapement The escapement is a … ContinuedThe post The ultimate watch glossary – advanced edition. Beat rates, pallets and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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This guy did a survey and found that 38mm is the perfect watch size – here are our other takeaways Time+Tide
Omega Chronostop Jun 17, 2019

This guy did a survey and found that 38mm is the perfect watch size – here are our other takeaways

The guy in question is none other than Mark Cho, who’s kind of a big deal in the world of menswear. One of the co-founders of The Armoury and co-owner of Drake’s. He’s also a watch fanatic. He spent one of his first paychecks on an Omega Chronostop, and admits that after falling down the rabbit … ContinuedThe post This guy did a survey and found that 38mm is the perfect watch size – here are our other takeaways appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The ultimate watch glossary – the intermediate edition, feat. wheels, pinions and more Time+Tide
Jun 16, 2019

The ultimate watch glossary – the intermediate edition, feat. wheels, pinions and more

Editor’s note: Last week we kicked off our series on the ultimate watch glossary - well, now it’s back and slightly more complex. Read on if you want to know what really makes your watch tick … Mechanical watch, manual or automatic There are two types of mechanical watch, and the difference comes down to … ContinuedThe post The ultimate watch glossary – the intermediate edition, feat. wheels, pinions and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Looking for a great first watch? The Nomos Club Campus could be just the ticket Time+Tide
Nomos Club Campus could be Jun 13, 2019

Looking for a great first watch? The Nomos Club Campus could be just the ticket

Editor’s note: Nomos is a habitual entrant on our ‘best in budget’ lists, and there’s a very good reason for that. Strong looks, great style and serious credibility all add up to a package that punches hard for its price tag. Case in point, the Nomos Club Campus, which was released at Baselworld a few … ContinuedThe post Looking for a great first watch? The Nomos Club Campus could be just the ticket appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The ultimate watch glossary – beginner’s edition, from bezels to bracelets Time+Tide
Jun 11, 2019

The ultimate watch glossary – beginner’s edition, from bezels to bracelets

Editor’s note: Watches can be intimidatingly confusing things, full of obscure parts with funny names. In this first part of our ongoing series ‘The ultimate watch glossary’, we start things off nice and slow with some entry-level terms. Even if you’re all over these terms, this page is perfect for sharing with your watch-curious buddies … ContinuedThe post The ultimate watch glossary – beginner’s edition, from bezels to bracelets appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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RECOMMENDED READING: Cashing in on the luxury watch bonanza Time+Tide
Jun 10, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Cashing in on the luxury watch bonanza

If you pay attention to the more business-to-business end of watchland you might have noticed that UK-based mega-retailer Watches of Switzerland (not to be confused with our local Aussie retailers of the same name) recently listed on the London Stock Exchange. They noticed it over at Axios, where this interesting piece on the business of … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Cashing in on the luxury watch bonanza appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Crazy Rich Asians just hit Netflix, watch it for the Newman that had its own bodyguard on set Time+Tide
Jun 9, 2019

Crazy Rich Asians just hit Netflix, watch it for the Newman that had its own bodyguard on set

Editor’s note: Crazy Rich Asians is a cracking film. It’s fresh, funny and ridiculous. For all but the 0.01% of real life Crazy Rich Asians that it – apparently – very faithfully depicts. All of that Rotten Tomatoes validation aside, it also has a watch in it that was borrowed from a collector; and came onto the … ContinuedThe post Crazy Rich Asians just hit Netflix, watch it for the Newman that had its own bodyguard on set appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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RECOMMENDED READING: How Patek Philippe became the most desirable watch brand in the world Time+Tide
Patek Philippe became Jun 3, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: How Patek Philippe became the most desirable watch brand in the world

So, this article is worth it for the image alone. Aside from the fact that Indy would never wear a 5711, it’s pretty perfect. The Patek Philippe hype is real. But beyond the sassy visuals, it’s a decent overview of the brand, its key models and how its watches are made, even if the why-they’re-in-for … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: How Patek Philippe became the most desirable watch brand in the world appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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A look into the world of fine watch engraving with King Nerd Time+Tide
Jun 1, 2019

A look into the world of fine watch engraving with King Nerd

Editor’s note: Since we originally ran this story back in 2017, the star of @KingNerd has grown ever brighter – he’s Revolution’s in-house engraver, and works on all sorts of dopeness. Definitely worth a second look. Real nerd @KingNerd might not be a real monarch, but he is royalty in the world of fine engraving. Definitely … ContinuedThe post A look into the world of fine watch engraving with King Nerd appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Another look at the Omega Globemaster Annual Calendar, a wonderful watch ruined with wordplay? Time+Tide
Omega Globemaster Annual Calendar May 27, 2019

Another look at the Omega Globemaster Annual Calendar, a wonderful watch ruined with wordplay?

Editor’s note: Time to Move saw some new dial variants of the Omega Globemaster Annual Calendar, with a chic black dial. And while we only saw these watches in passing, it reminded us of what an interesting, underrated and divisive (yes, all at once) watch it is. So, this is our review of the original, … ContinuedThe post Another look at the Omega Globemaster Annual Calendar, a wonderful watch ruined with wordplay? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Is this Grand Seiko GMT the coolest quartz watch around right now? Time+Tide
Grand Seiko GMT May 25, 2019

Is this Grand Seiko GMT the coolest quartz watch around right now?

Editor’s note: Well, if it’s not the coolest, it’s certainly on the shortlist. And while this green and gold LE is a particular fave of ours, any of the 9F GMT movements work well. They’re effortless, and so perfectly proportioned on the wrist. Plus, the work that goes into the quartz is so gosh-darned impressive … ContinuedThe post Is this Grand Seiko GMT the coolest quartz watch around right now? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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This is the ultimate dress watch, and it has been for more than 100 years Time+Tide
Cartier Tank Like May 24, 2019

This is the ultimate dress watch, and it has been for more than 100 years

Editor’s note: Dress watches are one of those timepiece genres with very specific ‘rules’, and can be hard to nail. One watch that always manages to look elegant and on point in a dressy situation is the Cartier Tank. Like this Tank Louis Cartier we looked at a while back … It’s hard to overstate … ContinuedThe post This is the ultimate dress watch, and it has been for more than 100 years appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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