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IWC Scales Down the Ingenieur to 35 mm SJX Watches
IWC Scales Down Apr 8, 2025

IWC Scales Down the Ingenieur to 35 mm

A new addition to the revived Ingenieur introduced two years ago, the Ingenieur Automatic 35 is just 35 mm in diameter and 9.44 mm thick, giving it a more streamlined profile than its 40 mm sibling. The size brings to mind the Ingenieur ref. 3521 of the 1990s that was just 34 mm wide. Beyond its compact dimensions, it preserves the hallmarks of the Ingenieur design, including a brushed bezel and case with polished chamfers, and matching integrated bracelet. The new Ingenieur is offered in stainless steel, with a choice of black or white dials, or in 18k red gold. Initial thoughts The modern-day Ingenieur 40 is a relatively faithful homage to the 1970s Ingenieur SL designed by Gerald Genta. The new 35 mm model retains the same styling but harks back to the smaller, 1990s model, filling out the Ingenieur line with a smaller offering. The smaller model has the same strengths and weaknesses as its larger cousin: an appealing historical design, solid execution of the case and bracelet, but a middling in-house movement matched with a relatively high retail price of US$9,950 in stainless steel and US$37,500 in red gold. Compact profile With a 35 mm diameter and a thickness of 9.44 mm, the new Ingenieur is what would be described as mid size by modern standards. Beyond the smaller form factor, it remains nearly identical to its 40 mm counterpart. It’s offered in stainless steel or 5N red gold with a matching bracelet. Notably, the gold version features a gold-plated dial with so...

Tudor Launches the Black Bay Pro with an Opaline Dial Worn & Wound
Tudor Launches Apr 3, 2025

Tudor Launches the Black Bay Pro with an Opaline Dial

Well, Tudor did the thing. And by “did the thing,” I mean that Tudor finally made the watch we all knew was coming, but maybe had started to doubt would ever arrive. But now the long wait is over, and the Black Bay Pro with Opaline white dial is here - and the new watch is everything people have been asking for and more, literally (but we’ll get to that in a minute). For as popular as the Black Bay Pro has been for Tudor, it didn’t take long after its launch in 2022 to notice a curious refrain of voices asking - nay, demanding - that Tudor bring a white dial in the style of the ‘Polar’ Explorer II to what is probably the outdoorsiest entry in the Black Bay family. Renders abounded, and a Polar BB Pro has been a fixture of prediction pieces for the last three years. Now, after a long wait, the watch so many asked for is here, and Tudor nailed it, not that there won’t be complaints. But first the good stuff. The dial here is awesome. The Opaline white dial (not Polar) looks - unsurprisingly - great against the all-steel look of the BB Pro, and the yellow GMT hand continues to please, albeit despite sacrificing some of the contrast that defined the original release. Thankfully, any contrast lost is more than made up for elsewhere, most especially thanks to the black surrounds on the hands and markers. The markers here are the same three-dimensional ceramic lume plots as on the black model, but here they forfeit the off-white look of the original BB Pro...

Alpina Re-Issues a Classic with the Heritage Tropic-Proof Handwinding Worn & Wound
Alpina Re-Issues Apr 1, 2025

Alpina Re-Issues a Classic with the Heritage Tropic-Proof Handwinding

The original Alpina Tropic-Proof, released in 1965 under mysterious origins-even the Swis brand itself can’t pinpoint the exact date-was emblematic of the newfound adventurous spirit ushered in by the now-accessible boom of transatlantic air travel. With a case designed by François Borgel and a handwinding movement, the Tropic-Proof was meant to be a watch-of-all-trades that could travel the globe with ease, rather than a specialized tool. Six decades later, Alpina is reissuing that design with key nods to the model’s history and future. Appropriately dubbed the Heritage Tropic-Proof Handwinding, the watch is enveloped in an understated stainless steel case that measures 34mm in diameter. Both dial options-shiny-finished white or black-contrast well with the applied silver indexes and polished silver hands, and the dial design excels in its simplicity, without conceding elegance. The hour and minute hands, as well as the dotted minute track, are coated in beige Luminova to give the Tropic-Proof ease of use in darkness. A beige Alcantara strap with a pin buckle adds a touch of sophistication, but not overzealousness, keeping the watch within the boundaries of subtle class. A threaded solid caseback with an engraved Heritage pattern hides the handwinding AL-480 caliber movement, which touts a 42-hour power reserve. Capping off the simple but elegant design is an anti-reflective glass box sapphire crystal, which curves downwards to maintain viewing ease at all an...

Hands-On: the Colorado Watch Company Field Watch and GCT Worn & Wound
Rado Watch Company Field Watch Mar 21, 2025

Hands-On: the Colorado Watch Company Field Watch and GCT

Iron and steam forged the Rocky Mountain west in the mid-nineteenth century. While the eastern half of the United States remained the capital of cultural influence and academic knowledge, pioneers throughout the west began to challenge notions of what progress looked like, and who deserved to play a role in the shaping of politics, finance, and ethics in this new chapter. Coloradans, especially, were a determined breed – weak wills don’t survive at altitudes like ours. We blasted through mountains with dynamite, scaled 14,000 foot peaks and braved record blizzards for a chance to make our fortune in gold and our name in silver. While still only a territory in the 1860s, Coloradans fought and defended the area’s mineral rights against the Confederacy, ensuring an accessible supply line remained open between California and the Union forces in the east.  Even today, railroad tracks blanket the state like a series of iron roots - vital components of an ecosystem well over a century old. These historical vestiges serve to bridge the gap between the state’s past and present. When Colorado was still in its relative infancy and taking shape, watchmaking in the U.S. started to rise. Cities in the northeast, sometimes older than the Centennial State by upwards of two centuries, had the resources and experience to become centers of horological production. By the time Colorado had caught up economically and began to orient towards other models of manufacturing, it was too l...

Glashütte Original Reveals New "Frosted" Dials for Senator Excellence Teddy Baldassarre
Glashütte Original Reveals New Frosted Dials Mar 20, 2025

Glashütte Original Reveals New "Frosted" Dials for Senator Excellence

German luxury watchmaker Glashütte Original has been on a streak of masterful moon-phase creations in recent years, releasing some absolutely exquisite dial colors in its PanoMaticLunar model (including the green-dial model I review here) and unveiling the first PanoLunarInverse model toward the end of 2024. Today, the brand continues shooting for the moon, in a visual and horological sense, with the launch of two new versions of its Senator Excellence Panorama Date Moon Phase family boasting two eye-catching - and historically inspired - new dial colors. Both of the watches’ dials - one in frosted silver, the other in frosted copper, achieved in a galvanic process - are created in homage to the rich mineral deposits once mined in the Ore Mountains, near the state of Saxony and the watchmaking town of Glashütte. Their finely grained surfaces, meant to evoke the thin layers of ice on the mountain rock, play host to the familiar and elegant details of the Senator Excellence family - including hand-applied, blued Roman numeral markers in gold and blued, polished poire hands complemented by a central seconds hand with the brand’s “double G” symbol as counterweight. The watches’ signature functions occupy carefully chosen spots on the dial without disrupting its overall clean, harmonious look. The large “Panorama” date display settles snugly in a double window at 4 o’clock, while the moon-phase elegantly balances it in the opposite corner above, its ...

Only For Japan - The Biver Automatique with Grand Feu Enamel Dial SJX Watches
Mar 7, 2025

Only For Japan - The Biver Automatique with Grand Feu Enamel Dial

Jean-Claude Biver and his son Pierre continue their journey of independent horology with the Biver Automatique Japan Edition. Made in collaboration with its retailer in Japan, this special release is based on the time-only automatic debuted last year, but reimagined to cater to the traditionally classical taste of the Japanese collector. The minimalist edition debuts in two elegant variants that explore the contrast of light and shadow through hard-fired enamel made by an enamel workshop in Geneva’s Old Town. A stark white enamel dial is paired with a platinum case, while the high-contrast version matches a glossy black dial with a rose gold case – both share a clean, old-school aesthetic with applied markers and a railway minute track. A tribute to the Japanese collector The Automatique epitomises Biver’s neoclassical and elaborate approach to watchmaking, which blends careful detailing with hand-finishing techniques, for both habillage and the movement. Now the Japan Edition further refines the approach, condensing the more elaborate execution of the original versions into something more traditional, more classical, and arguably more reflective of the taste of Japanese enthusiasts. The two distinct models pay homage to the Japanese appreciation of minimalist aesthetics combined with high quality and precision execution, along with a well-established love of mid-century precision Swiss wristwatches. The clarity of the vintage-inspired design makes the Japan Edition ...

Introducing the Lead Sponsors of the Windup Watch Fair Dallas Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Oris Mar 4, 2025

Introducing the Lead Sponsors of the Windup Watch Fair Dallas

With the Windup Watch Fair Dallas just a little over a week away, we’re excited to introduce you to our Lead Sponsors and give you a taste of what to expect from their offerings this year! As a reminder, the Windup Watch Fair is free and open to the public to encourage anyone to attend, including both watch nerds and novices alike. Here are the details of our Dallas event: Hickory Street Annex 501 S Second Ave #200, Dallas, TX 75226 Saturday, March 15: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, March 16: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to the public No registration necessary Our Lead Sponsors at Windup Dallas-Christopher Ward, Oris, and Zodiac-are pillars of the Windup Watch Fair experience and the enthusiast community. They represent the breadth of what you can find at the show, so we’re excited to highlight a bit of what they plan to have on display. The Christopher Ward C63 Sealander GMT Christopher Ward, the UK-based watch company, has never shied away from a “big umbrella” approach when it comes to making price-accessible timepieces that don’t compromise on style or quality. Their latest C63 Sealander 36 GMT is no exception. True to the Sealander’s ‘Go Anywhere, Do Everything’ mantra, the 36 GMT boasts an ultra-legible dial adorned with applied indices, a twin-flags logo, a symmetrical 6 o’clock date, and brushed and polished hands filled with Super-LumiNova®. The GMT hand, featuring a vibrant orange accent, adds a sporty contrast to the White, Black, and Dragonfly Blue d...

eBay Finds: An Unusual Vintage Omax, a Pair of Bulovas, and a Classic King Seiko Worn & Wound
Bulova s Feb 28, 2025

eBay Finds: An Unusual Vintage Omax, a Pair of Bulovas, and a Classic King Seiko

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Croton Chronomaster   The Croton Chronomaster is a classic vintage chronograph with an iconic name. Usually these are called Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver (like I said, iconic), but this iteration has been reduced for brevity’s sake to just the Chronomaster…still a great name. But it’s not just a cool name, this chunky 1970’s chronograph has the classic squarish steel case that looks unpolished but does have some wear from age/use. The aluminum dive bezel is in good shape with minimal wear. The black dial is clean and has a great layout with the dual subdials and date window at 6 o’clock giving it a nice symmetry. The Valjoux manual wind movement is clean and runs well per the seller. View auction here Vintage Bulova Ambassador  Next up is this sweet vintage Bulova. The seller calls it an Ambassador, but to be honest I don’t recall seeing this model attached to that name. Either way, it’s a beauty. The slim white gold filled case is clean, with bold fancy lugs. The black dial looks original and is really clean. It has stylized Art Deco style numerals and a nice subseconds dial at 6 o’clock. The Bulova caliber 7AK manual wind movement is clean and works well pe...

The MoonSwatch '1965' Review Teddy Baldassarre
Longines Wittnauer 235T Feb 26, 2025

The MoonSwatch '1965' Review

If you’re a Speedmaster fan, you know the story. NASA sent out an RFP for an official watch of the space program – a watch that would undergo a litany of tests (pressure, temperature, corrosion resistance, shock, acceleration, and vibration to name more than a few) to prove that it could withstand the rigors of space exploration. Three watches came in for testing: A Longines Wittnauer 235T, a Rolex Daytona Ref. 6238, and an Omega Speedmaster ST105.003 dating to 1964. As you know, the Speedmaster won the contract and on March 1, 1965, it became the aforementioned official watch of the space program. That designation has since been engraved on the caseback of every Moonwatch in production today. This week, the Swatch Instagram account was buzzing with retro video content that would always end with a title card reading “1965.” Today, we know why. Celebrating 60 years since the flight qualification of the Speedmaster, and nearly 60 years from the moment Ed White took a Speedy for a 20-minute space excursion during Gemini IV, Omega and Swatch have announced a celebratory MoonSwatch that marries the past to the present. The first thing you’re going to notice is the white dial, a detail that harkens back to Snoopy MoonSwatch, but more importantly, to the 2024 White Speedmaster that set the watch world on fire after DanielCraig wore it to Planet Omega in New York in 2023. For all of you who wince at the sight of yet another MoonSwatch – and there are plenty of you – ...

Introducing - A New, Stylish Blue and Golden Dial For the MeisterSinger Pangaea Day Date Monochrome
Meistersinger Pangaea Day Date Inspired Feb 26, 2025

Introducing - A New, Stylish Blue and Golden Dial For the MeisterSinger Pangaea Day Date

Inspired by the very first mechanical tower and table clocks that had not yet discovered the minutes hand, MeisterSinger’s disarmingly simple premise is to deliver the time with a single hand. However, a single hand is not necessarily equated with simple watches, and the brand’s repertoire includes complications like its chiming Bel Hora and moon phase […]

Christopher Ward Responds to Customer Feedback and Adds a 38mm Version of The Twelve to the Permanent Collection Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Responds Feb 20, 2025

Christopher Ward Responds to Customer Feedback and Adds a 38mm Version of The Twelve to the Permanent Collection

“Through constant emails, face-to-face requests at events, and in the comments of our social posts, it has been impossible to ignore the requests for this ‘Goldilocks’ case size. We are a brand that listens to our customers––you asked and we delivered.”  –Christopher Ward’s CEO and Co-Founder Mike France It’s always refreshing when the feedback of the watch community is recognized by at least one company or representative within the watchmaking industry. To hear Mike France and Christopher Ward directly address their customer’s concerns is exactly what makes the microbrand/indie sphere so great. Whether you believe they’ve expanded beyond their microbrand status to “legacy micro,” “independent,” or some other higher level of categorization, the brand’s acknowledgement of customer input speaks volumes about their character and ability to take and utilize constructive criticism––perhaps a result of their humble beginnings as a true microbrand. After the critical acclaim the 36mm and 40mm Twelve models received, Christopher Ward is set to release a fresh take on their popular design with the new Twelve 38. The stainless-steel case, which made its limited edition debut last year in the “Ice Cream” collection, measures 38mm across, 43.3mm lug-to-lug, and 9.95mm thick, thanks to its ultra-slim Swiss-made Sellita SW200-1 movement. With 26 jewels, a smooth 4Hz beat rate, and a 38-hour power reserve, these reliable and durable automatic move...

Defining a New Era of French Watchmaking Worn & Wound
Feb 12, 2025

Defining a New Era of French Watchmaking

Today, if you ask nearly anyone, “What’s the epicenter of watchmaking?” the answer will resoundingly be, “Switzerland,” but you might be surprised to learn its neighbor to the west is largely responsible for the birth of modern watchmaking as we know it. In France, the earliest clocks date back to the Middle Ages, primarily used by clergymen. Fast forward a few hundred years, you’ll find the first “wearable clocks” emerging in France by the end of the 1400s.  Over the next couple hundred years, watchmaking became an increasingly thriving industry in France. However, the horological community experienced its first disruption in 1685. That year, King Louis XIV revoked of the Edict of Nantes, which had granted the minority Calvinist Protestants of France, also known as Huguenots, substantial rights in the nation, which was predominantly Catholic at the time. As a result of the revocation, there was a mass exodus of Huguenots from France across the border to Switzerland, many of whom were-you guessed it-watchmakers.  King Louis XIV Still, the real golden age of French watchmaking came in the 1700s in conjunction with another major moment for the country: the Age of Enlightenment. During this time, Paris became the heart of the watchmaking industry. Here, in the Île de la Cité (one of two natural islands in the Seine River right in the center of the City of Light), is the Place Dauphone, a public square on the western end of the island opposite the ico...

Apiar Pushes the Limits of Additive Manufacturing with the Gen1.B for British Watchmaker’s Day Worn & Wound
Ming back Feb 11, 2025

Apiar Pushes the Limits of Additive Manufacturing with the Gen1.B for British Watchmaker’s Day

A concept that we’re always coming back to at Worn & Wound is the thrill of discovering something new. This is fundamentally what the Windup Watch Fairs are all about, this idea that anyone can walk into a show and happen across something that is completely new and exciting, whether you’re a seasoned veteran of the hobby or brand new to it. While I certainly admit to a bit of a bias toward the unusual having worked in the space long enough to become a bit tired of the generic, for me this has always been key to my enthusiasm, and I’m just a lot more likely to stop and read a press release or pick up and try on a watch if it looks, sounds, or feels unfamiliar to me. That’s the feeling I had when I came across the press release for the new release Apiar, a British brand who will sell five examples of the new Gen1.B at the upcoming British Watchmaker’s Day event in March. Apiar is a brand I had only a passing familiarity with – they are a relatively new brand on the affordable indie scene – and I found the images of the Gen1.B to be quite striking and the concept behind the brand interesting in its own right.  Apiar was founded by Matt Oosthuizen and Sam White, a designer and engineer, respectively. They bring a contemporary, tech forward approach to watchmaking, and are building the brand on a trio of core principles: Build Impossible, Build Sustainable, and Build British. The idea is to create watches that take on shapes and forms that in their design that ha...

The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 is the Latest Sports Watch to Get the Lume Dial Treatment Worn & Wound
Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Feb 7, 2025

The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 is the Latest Sports Watch to Get the Lume Dial Treatment

Though I’m still confused on the pronunciation of Porsche (is it porsch or porsh-uh?), there is no mistaking the impact the brand has had on the automotive and design worlds. And, what the hell, let’s throw the watch world in, too, for good measure. Since 1972, with the release of the first all-black chronograph, Porsche Design has been producing watches that might take the sting out of not being able to afford a brand-new 911. Now, with their latest iteration, the Chronograph 1–F.A.T. 2025 Edition, we see both the evolution of Porsche Design’s timepieces while also a nod to their own heritage. Taking the design principles of Ferdinand Porsche, the design team built almost an inversion of the original Chronograph 1 from the 70’s. While they have maintained 40.8mm black titanium carbide case, they’ve inverted the design with a white dial. Not only is this a first for Porsche Design’s watches, but it also serves a functional purpose: the dial is completely coated in white Super-LumiNova, making it readable in total darkness. This is one example of how the Chronograph 1 – F.A.T. sits right at the meeting point between form and functionality. It’s the hidden Easter eggs of this watch that show how proud Porsche is of their heritage. Take, for instance, a Porsche 962 silhouette on the hour counter and a subtle “962” on the 6 o’clock subdial. One of my favorites is the F.A.T. International logo appears under the date, while the English day display replace...

H. Moser Introduces a New Pioneer Tourbillon with a Burgundy Dial Worn & Wound
H. Moser Introduces Feb 6, 2025

H. Moser Introduces a New Pioneer Tourbillon with a Burgundy Dial

For H. Moser’s first release of 2025, they’ve added a new reference to the Pioneer collection in the still somewhat new 40mm case. I’ve been a fan of the Pioneer for what it represents in the Moser catalog for some time. Moser is a very high end indie that is responsible for a lot of truly interesting and innovative watchmaking, but the Pioneer has existed as a (somewhat) accessible access point to the brand that gives you a lot of Moser style, and, frankly, a good chunk of the watchmaking that makes the brand special. I reviewed the “Mega-Cool” Pioneer all the way back in 2021, and came away impressed with the aesthetic even if I felt like the case perhaps a tad too big. The new, smaller, 40mm case is Moser’s answer to many of their clients who were asking for this watch in a smaller size, and while there is indeed a 40mm Pioneer on the accessible side, here Moser is using the platform for a watchmaking flex. The Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy is a new 40mm Pioneer running on Moser’s HMC 805 automatic caliber with a deep burgundy dial and a red gold case. Red gold and burgundy certainly feel like a natural combination, and the watch seems to exude a warmth that makes it particularly appealing in these dark winter months (although, to be fair, this watch has a place on the beach as well).  If you only know the Pioneer in its 43mm guise, you really owe it to yourself to get the 40mm version on your wrist. It wears completely differently and changes the impact of...

A Travel Watch Inspired by Travelers: the J.M. LeBoy Bedouin Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Feb 5, 2025

A Travel Watch Inspired by Travelers: the J.M. LeBoy Bedouin

It’s hard to understand Budapest without being there. On its surface, it seems like any other major European capital, but in practice, Budapest is a singular experience. I was lucky enough to visit Budapest when I was 14, and what I encountered was a city replete with contradictions, one that wears its history on its sleeve, and which evokes a unique perspective. In other words, it’s exactly the sort of city where you would expect to find someone like Jake LeBoy. “I went there for vacation a few years ago and I thought, you know, I’m just going to get an apartment here,” he told me. “It’s pretty nice. And I’ve been enjoying it ever since.” Jake LeBoy, the founder and designer behind the newly launched watch brand J.M. LeBoy, expresses a similar sort of contradiction. Talking to Jake, it would be hard to guess that the remarkably chipper native Californian had served as an enlisted Marine, or that he has spent much of the time since working as a military contractor all around the world. What wasn’t hard to see was his love of watches. Soft spoken and warm, Jake is a passionate watch enthusiast, driven by detail and with a strong sense of what it means to do right by the collectors whose attention he’s looking to grab. “I’ve always been a huge watch nerd,” he explained. “Even from the time I was a little kid, I saw Goldfinger and the famous Submariner, and then I saw Jason Bourne, the first one with the TAG Heuer… that for me, dude - I final...

Editorial: LVMH Reveals Movement Strategy with Bulgari Serpenti Automatic SJX Watches
Bulgari Serpenti Automatic Bulgari’s flagship Jan 24, 2025

Editorial: LVMH Reveals Movement Strategy with Bulgari Serpenti Automatic

Bulgari’s flagship launch at the recent LVMH Watch Week was the mechanical version of its signature watch, the Serpenti Automatic. Available as a Seduttori with a conventional bracelet and a Tubogas multi-loop bracelet version, the Serpenti Automatic is stays faithful to the model in terms of design. But the new Serpenti is notable for what’s inside: the newly developed Lady Solotempo BVS100 movement, which reveals LVMH’s plans for its watch division, which is now led by Frédéric Arnault. Conceived as a compact workhorse with a useful 50-hour power reserve, the BVS100 is an industrial calibre created by Bulgari, but it will be produced by sister brand Zenith, creating an “ecosystem” for the LVMH watch brands. The Serpenti Tubogas Automatic with its distinctive flexible, looped bracelet Initial thoughts The Serpenti is iconic Bulgari, and the BVS100 is an interesting, albeit industrial and cost-efficient, movement. But the most interesting section in the announcement of the Serpenti Automatic wasn’t about the watches themselves, but the background of the calibre: “The BVS100… developed and currently produced by Bvlgari in Le Sentier, is expected to be included in the future catalog of in-house movements available to other LVMH group Maisons and to be manufactured by Zenith… Bvlgari is proud to contribute to the manufacturing ecosystem established by LVMH in support of Watchmaking excellence and craftsmanship in Switzerland.” The “catalog of in-house ...

Louis Vuitton Surprises with Tambour Convergence SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Surprises Jan 21, 2025

Louis Vuitton Surprises with Tambour Convergence

Louis Vuitton starts 2025 with a surprise, the Tambour Convergence. Modelled on traditional “digital” pocket watches, the Convergence indicates the time with discs visible in a pair of small windows at the top of the face. The unusual design, coupled with the compact, 37 mm case gives the Convergence an elegant, vintage-inspired aesthetic atypical of Louis Vuitton. Equally notable is the newly-developed in-house calibre inside, the LFT MA01.01. The movement is of a family of movements that will underpin Louis Vuitton’s timepieces going forward; variants of the movement are also found in the new Tambour Taiko Spin Time. Initial thoughts The Convergence is unexpected because it isn’t typical of Louis Vuitton. The vintage-inspired styling and proportions are almost antithesis of the brand’s conventional look, which was historically colourful and modern. Even though such territory is relatively new to Louis Vuitton, the Convergence is executed well. The design has intrinsic appeal, and shows off good proportions and details. The Convergence demonstrates the refined style of the redesigned Tambour case, which barely resembles the chunky original that was often thick and paired with narrow lugs. While I myself liked the quirk look of the original Tambour, the revamped model is undoubtedly more elegant and consequently will have a wider appeal. The Convergence debuts in pink gold The Convergence does well in almost all respects – fit, finish, design, and dimensions ...

Bell & Ross Introduces their Latest Patrouille de France Collaboration Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Introduces their Latest Patrouille Jan 20, 2025

Bell & Ross Introduces their Latest Patrouille de France Collaboration

I don’t know what it is exactly, but there’s something thrilling about air shows. In fact, every summer in my hometown, people will pull their deck chairs onto the road to catch a glimpse of the U.S. Air Force demonstrating an F-35A. And even I, as jaded as I am, do get a slight buzz when they zoom across the sky, doing loop-de-loops while I commute home. And that’s just in rural Pennsylvania – imagine if I was commuting to my maison in France while the Patrouille de France whizzed by with their signature red, white, and blue smoke trailing behind. Quel spectacle! While I have no plans to move to France anytime soon, I can say that Bell & Ross’ latest addition to their continued collaboration with the aerobatics demonstration unit of the French Air and Space Force, the BR-05 Chrono Patrouille de France, does add a little je ne sais quoi to one’s wrist, n’est-ce pas? (Okay, last time I speak French here, I promise). As with previous iterations of this collaboration, Bell & Ross seamlessly incorporates aeronautical motifs within the framework of the brand’s design ethos. Keeping with their “circle within a square” design, the BR-05 Chrono has presence on the wrist, clocking in at 42mm. But it’s the little elements that show the true partnership with the Patrouille de France. Details like the light blue sunburst dial, echoing the pilots’ flight suits, and the dark blue rehaut and subdials, referencing the aircraft’s fuselage, make the design stand ou...

Swatch Gets in on the Year of the Snake with Two Refreshingly Affordable Options Worn & Wound
Swatch Jan 9, 2025

Swatch Gets in on the Year of the Snake with Two Refreshingly Affordable Options

It’s certainly no surprise that our inboxes here at Worn & Wound continue to be inundated with new releases heralding the year of the snake. The first weeks of January are traditionally a slow period for new watch releases in every category except lunar new year novelties. It’s safe to say that if this type of thing is your primary interest in watch enthusiasm, we are in the midst of what is surely your Super Bowl. While a lot of the new lunar new year releases are extravagant, high end demonstrations of a brand’s craft, there are, thankfully, examples of watches in this vein that are far more approachable. That brings us to the Year of the Snake collection from Swatch, a pair of impressionistic snake themed designs for those who are looking to celebrate the new year on a budget.  First up is the Golden Red Bamboo reference, a ultra slim 38mm quartz powered watch with a glimmering gold dial. The dial’s motif appears to be a somewhat abstract idea of a snake rather than a zoologically correct representation of a serpent, and I think it’s better off because of it. The orange accents on the hands and dial make for a nice contrast with the gold, which is extended to the case, crafted from stainless steel and given a PVD gold coating. The strap is described as “leather and textile” and has matching orange embroidery and gold accents.  If something a little bigger is more your speed, Swatch has you covered with the Blue and Gold Lithe Dancer reference, part of th...

The Seiko Dress Watch Of The Yar Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex guy Dec 12, 2024

The Seiko Dress Watch Of The Yar

As someone who typically leans towards the toolish side of Seiko’s offerings, there was something about the watch I bring you today which stopped me in my tracks for an inexplicable reason. Perhaps it is explicable (perhaps in real time while writing this) and I may figure out a way to explic...I mean, explain it. Yes, I am coming to you to introduce a new Seiko Presage Classic model. It is called the SPB478J1, and I think it just might be the attainable dress watch of the year. Okay, taking a step back for a moment, I am a Rolex guy and a two-tone guy. I regularly wear a two-tone Rolex Datejust on a jubilee bracelet so I certainly have a type. And you can see from looking at this watch, the Seiko SPB478J1, that it fits nicely into this category for me. Getting my biases out of the way, let’s dig into the watch. So Seiko, as we know, calls its watches by their reference numbers. But it also gave this one a nice little descriptor on the website: Delicate Cream Silk. I mean, come on, that’s amazing. It’s almost like it could be the alternative name of a band consisting of Bruno Mars and Anderson Paak. The name actually refers to the watch’s dial because, of course it does. The dial texture is “inspired by unbleached natural Japanese silk, a material which has long featured in Japanese home décor and clothing since ancient times.” The brand calls this a ‘Shiro-Iro’ colored dial.  Moving to the watch itself, it features gold-colored accents for a mixed-met...

Hublot’s Latest Art Piece is a Big Bang Tourbillon Designed by Samuel Ross Worn & Wound
Hublot s Latest Art Piece Dec 12, 2024

Hublot’s Latest Art Piece is a Big Bang Tourbillon Designed by Samuel Ross

Those who know me personally, and perhaps those of you who regularly tune into the podcast and read my little ramblings here on the blog, know that over the course of the last year I’ve become somewhat disillusioned with large luxury brands and what I perceive as a general stodginess among the big luxury groups. I’m finding that there’s just a lot more innovation and original thought – at every price point – in the independent sphere. Not only that (because it’s really not surprising), but indies are truly having a moment. They aren’t just more interesting and “better” in most metrics than big group brands, they are peaking, and perhaps in the midst of a new golden age of boundary pushing watchmaking. But, of course, there are exceptions. There are still mass market brands that get me excited by taking risks and doing things that are inherently not mass market, and Hublot has long been Exhibit A. This is a brand that was unfairly maligned for a long time by the enthusiast community, but as the pendulum has swung from straightforward sports watches to more creative and inspired designs, many have come to appreciate the pure originality at Hublot. If I didn’t know better, it would be easy to assume they were an indie themselves.  Something that Hublot does better than just about any other brand, indie or otherwise, is position their watches as works of art. There’s probably a real debate to be had about whether watches, particularly modern watches prod...

Up Close: Biver Automatique SJX Watches
Dec 6, 2024

Up Close: Biver Automatique

The second watch launched by Biver, the Automatique is a three-hand time-only, functionally simple but elaborately executed. Even the base model has a surprisingly complex dial, but the Automatique is really all about the JCB-003 movement, which is a micro-rotor calibre that ranks up there as one of most impressive recent self-winding movements. Established by Jean-Claude Biver and his son Pierre, Biver got its start with a far more complicated watch, but the Automatique is arguably more impressive because it’s a simple watch executed in a complicated yet cohesive manner. The JCB-003 Initial thoughts Yet another time-only watch with a dressed up movement and hefty price tag – the formula feels a little worn out now. So the Biver Automatique surprises on the upside. I like it. The design is appealing and cohesive, while the movement is impressive. In contrast, when Biver debuted with the Carillon Tourbillon minute repeater, I thought “the quality is unmistakeable, the aesthetics are lacking”. The Automatique lives up to the same levels of quality – and maybe even more – but it is instinctively appealing, even considering the price. The solid gold dial of the entry-level version in rose gold Even though Biver is not an artisanal independent brand in the conventional sense of the word since neither of its founders are watchmakers, the JCB-003 movement is executed to a standard that equals many artisanal independents. The construction is thoughtful and sophisticate...

Explained: Dial Making at Rolex SJX Watches
Rolex One aspect Dec 6, 2024

Explained: Dial Making at Rolex

One aspect of a watch that is often overlooked - but ironically the one that is front and centre - is the dial. While often conservative in terms of design, Rolex is perhaps at its most expressive in the details of its dials, which blend classic elements with modern touches, all accomplished by modern manufacturing techniques and finishes. Even though a dial may seem simple on its face compared to the moving parts of the movement, dials are complex. Much goes into making a high quality dial, the dial blank, applied ornaments, surface finishing, gold indices, and more recently even grand feu enamel. A diamond-set dial for the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date Unsurprisingly Rolex takes dial making very seriously. Reflecting its long-term vision, Rolex has invested tremendously in every aspect of manufacturing wristwatches, including producing its own dials. Dial manufacturing of the highest quality, and at scale, is a challenge few have truly mastered. Rolex accomplished that with a dedicated dial-making facility in the Chêne-Bourg district of Geneva, located about 15 minutes from Rolex headquarters, where some 500 people work exclusively on dial conception, prototyping, and production. Notably, the Chêne-Bourg facility also does gem setting as well as the production of Cerachrom components like the GMT-Master II bezel insert. In-house dial making has given Rolex control of the entire process, allowing the brand to innovate, even in rethinking the very foundation of a dial, n...

Spoiler Alert: The A.Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone Is Something Special! WatchAdvice
A. Lange & Sohne Nov 26, 2024

Spoiler Alert: The A.Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone Is Something Special!

As A. Lange & Söhne celebrate the 30th anniversary of the iconic Lange 1, we thought we’d join the party, and what better way to help celebrate than to take the Lange 1 Time Zone out and about? What We Love The asymmetrical dial Ease of legibility of 2 time zones The impeccable finishing all over the watch What We Don’t The date window with no 0 in front of 1 through 9 It is probably not an everyday watch for many people Like most world time watches, it doesn’t take into account daylight savings automatically Overall Score: 9 / 10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 2024 has been a celebratory year for A. Lange & Söhne. The Saxony brand has celebrated two birthdays this year, the first being the 25th Anniversary of the Datograph, which was showcased at Watches & Wonders this year with the stunning Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lumen and the Datograph Up/Down, but the second, and maybe the most important was the 30th Anniversary of the Lange 1, the first modern watch the brand created after being brought back to life. RELATED READING: Happy 30th Birthday to A. Lange & Söhne’s Lange 1! So, it is safe to say that the Lange 1 is a special piece when it comes to A. Lange & Söhne, and when we interviewed A. Lange & Söhne’s Asia Pacific Managing Director, Nicolas Gong, a couple of months ago, he had this to say about the Lange 1, and I think he summed it up perfectly: “It’s the first watch that we launched...

Auction: Japanese Watches in Demand at Phillips’ Toki Sale SJX Watches
Seiko Nov 25, 2024

Auction: Japanese Watches in Demand at Phillips’ Toki Sale

A thematic sale of watches related to Japan, Toki just concluded at Phillips in Hong Kong over the weekend, notching up HK$61.8 million with fees, equivalent to US$7.95 million. Comprised of watches sold in Japan or made for the country, the catalogue included familiar names like Seiko and Casio, but also independent watchmakers like Masahiro Kikuno, along with a host of limited editions by Swiss brands for the Japanese market. A novel concept given the dominance of Swiss brands in watch auctions, both in terms of value and volume, Toki surprised on the upside. The 115-lot auction included lots of surprising and notable results, like HK$1.14 million (about US$147,000) for the Casio G-Shock Dream Project, double the original retail price. Thomas Perazzi at the rostrum. Image – Phillips Toki and the subsequent main sale showed the momentum established during the Geneva auctions two weeks ago carried on into Hong Kong. The strength of the sale is also credit to the Phillips watch department in Asia led by Thomas Perazzi, which conceived Toki a year ago with the help of Tokyo-based consultants for Phillips, Kaz Fujimoto and Genki Sakamoto. The unusual theme was realised well with a carefully curated catalogue. Many of the watches in Toki were simply unavailable anywhere else. With only 35 made and all sold via a lottery in 2020, where else can one find a solid-gold G-Shock? This reflected in the diverse nature of the bidders. Most bids in the sale came from phone bidders an...

Hands On With The Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Australian Limited Edition WatchAdvice
Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Australian Nov 12, 2024

Hands On With The Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Australian Limited Edition

As part of the 140th Anniversary celebrations, Breitling has released a limited edition Chronomat 42 just for the Australian and New Zealand market, with 140 pieces available. As an Australian publication, we just had to get our hands on it! What We Love: The “Arctic White” dial is fresh and clean The Rouleaux-style rubber strap is comfortable and so easy to wear Size is great and will wear well for most wrist sizes What We Don’t: The way the strap is reversed and threads through towards the body The chronograph pushers are slightly on the stiffer side The anti-reflective coating can be easily seen looking at the watch and dial Overall Rating: 8.9 / 10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Breitling’s Chronomat has been around for a little while, 82 years in fact, and the original watch resembled a Navitimer more than the modern Chronomat we know today. In fact, the Chronomat was Brerilting’s first slide rule watch and was designed for mathematicians to do complex calculations with the watch – hence the original name CHRONOgraph for MAThematicians, Chronomat. At the time, is was a world first, and what Breitling dubbed, the worlds first “Smart Watch”. It’s a nice play on words and back in 1942, it was revolutionary and was one of Willy Breilting’s most loved products. An original Chronomat from 1942, complete with slide rule. If you think this looks like a Navitier, you would be correct as this was the first watc...

From Prototype To Perpetual Calendar: The Panerai Radiomir Perpetual Calendar GMT Goldtech PAM01453 Fratello
Panerai Radiomir Perpetual Calendar GMT Nov 1, 2024

From Prototype To Perpetual Calendar: The Panerai Radiomir Perpetual Calendar GMT Goldtech PAM01453

Panerai’s first-ever watch prototype was released on October 24th, 1935, and it was called Radiomir. The watch will turn 90 next year, but the excitement must be too big to control at the brand’s headquarters because the Panerai Radiomir Perpetual Calendar GMT Goldtech PAM01453 you see here is a celebratory model. It is a complicated […] Visit From Prototype To Perpetual Calendar: The Panerai Radiomir Perpetual Calendar GMT Goldtech PAM01453 to read the full article.

Glashütte Original Inverts the PanoLunar SJX Watches
Glashütte Original Inverts Oct 29, 2024

Glashütte Original Inverts the PanoLunar

One of the first brands to invert a movement and showcase it on the dial, Glashütte Original just released the PanoLunarInverse, a sibling of the PanoLunarTourbillon and PanoMaticInverse. Like the earlier models, the PanoLunarInverse has key parts of the movement on the dial, including the balance wheel, escapement, and three-quarter plate that’s finished with with pyramid guilloche. In addition, it features the brand’s oversized Panorama date at two o’clock and a large moon phase display. Initial thoughts Older Pano models tended to be conservative in style. The PanoLunarInverse, on the other hand, is modern in colour and decoration, setting it apart from its Pano siblings. The inverted construction is made more interesting with the pyramid guilloche, while the moon phase adds a bit of romance to the technical appearance of the dial. Some models in Glashütte Original’s Pano collection bring to mind the asymmetrical dial layout of another German brand (which is partly why Glashütte Original has never escaped the shadows of its peers), but the PanoLunarInverse feels original because of the combination of colour, decoration, and complication. Priced at US$42,600, the PanoLunarInverse is one of the pricier watches in the Pano collection, but it is reasonably priced considering the platinum case and movement decoration. This is typical of Glashütte Original, which sits in the accessible high horology segment alongside brands like Jaeger-LeCoultre. Inverse German wa...