Quill & Pad
The New Strehler Sirna: It Shocked Me!
The Strehler Sirna is first off the block for Andreas Strehler's new brand. It's a time-only watch with an off-center seconds sub dial, clean chapter rings, and a hand finished dial.
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Quill & Pad
The Strehler Sirna is first off the block for Andreas Strehler's new brand. It's a time-only watch with an off-center seconds sub dial, clean chapter rings, and a hand finished dial.
Time+Tide
Following the highly anticipated launch of the brand’s new design, the Studio Underd0g Field collection is finally available for pre-orders. Though they’re by no means your bog-standard, military issue field watch, the Pink Lem0nade, Steffany Blue, Full Mo0n and Midnight models bring a unique dial construction to the table, alongside plenty of lume. Enquire about … ContinuedThe post The Studio Underd0g 02Series Field is now available for pre-orders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Arnold & Son introduces the latest iteration of the Double Tourbillon, this time in white gold with a mesmerising malachite dial.
Time+Tide
With a wide open view of the Powermatic 80 movement within, we go hands-on with Certina's take on a skeletonised dial.The post The new Certina DS-1 Skeleton shows off the latest Powermatic 80 development appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The Chronomètre Optimum is arguably François-Paul Journe’s most complex no-complication creation. Being a time-only watch, the Chronomètre Optimum displays the same amount of information as the entry-level Chronomètre Souveraine, albeit for more than twice the price, with the Chronomètre Optimum retailing for US$129,500 in platinum and a bit less in gold. On a pleasantly asymmetric dial, the Chronomètre Optimum presents the wearer with the time, down to the second, and a power reserve indicator. Plain as the dial might seem, the Chronomètre Optimum’s appeal lies in its inner, and largely hidden, complexity. In fact, the cal. 1510 within ranks among the most sophisticated time-only movements on the market today. Chronometry Historically the tourbillon was never a complication, though it is often regarded as such today – though some prominent collectors disagree. In this context, it is difficult to label the features of the Chronomètre Optimum true complications. But since the timepiece was designed with chronometry in mind, its features of engineered accuracy might just qualify as a complication. Chronometry in mechanical watchmaking is regarded as a marriage between accuracy and precision, as there is a nuance between the two. Accuracy is the quality of a watch or clock to have a timekeeping deviation as close to zero as possible, whereas precision relates more to the consistency and stability of the timepiece’s rate, rather than to a temporary lack of devi...
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This retro-inspired dive watch isn't just a pretty face: it's a proper tool watch.The post The Héron Marinor is a classy Canadian dive watch with a tough secret appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
A salmon dial, platinum case, and bi-retrograde complication of the Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date is Vacheron Constantin's subtle take on the recent phenomenon.The post The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date is vying for the stealth-wealth crown appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Fears continues to expand their classic Brunswick collection with the release of two new references: one of which brings their beautiful copper salmon dial to the 40mm case, and another called Aurora, which subverts expectations around mother of pearl dials. The new watches follow the brand’s subtle yet distinctive design language, feeling familiar yet new at the same time. Mother of pearl likely elicits a very specific reaction, but Fears looks to change that with the new Aurora, placing it within more neutral territory, accessible to both masculine and feminine sensibilities. While I’m not sure that this will become a trend, this isn’t the first time we’ve seen this material used in unexpected ways. Oris has found creative ways to bring this treatment to their Aquis, and even Formex has used it in their Essence 39. In both instances, the mother of pearl element is given an accent color, and it’s the same case with this new Brunswick from Fears. There are blue tones at work on multiple levels of the dial, creating a slight deviation between the outer and inner portions. Mother of pearl is a dynamic material that shifts in appearance quite easily, from any angle, and in any light. It’s the perfect expression of a similar phenomenon, the aurora (borealis in the north, australis in the south), an ever changing interaction between the solar wind and the earth’s magnetosphere. Each brings a quality that’s difficult to capture in a moment, or describe in words...
SJX Watches
Following the anniversary edition with a silvered “sector” dial, Tokyo retailer Shellman announces another small-run limited edition with the Habring² Shellman 50th Anniversary “Black”. Available as a chronograph or time-only, the new edition is limited to just 15 watches each. It retains the dial design of the earlier edition, but now in a black “gilt” finish and matched with a stepped bezel. Initial thoughts Vintage-inspired “sector” dials aren’t novel at all, but the new Shellman duo, like the original edition, stand out for their details. At the same time, the fact that they are Habring² means the price-performance ratio is excellent. Amongst the details that make this appealing are the applied markers, gold-powder print, as well as the matched silvered hands for the chronograph. These reveal an attention to detail in the design – unsurprising since Shellman is a respected seller of vintage watches – proving the whole here is greater than the sum of the parts. Though these are slightly more expensive than the first edition – the price is up about 10% – both models now include a steel bracelet. Add to that the weak Japanese yen, and these are a greater value buy than the original pair. Vintage-inspired Created to mark Shellman’s 50th anniversary, the original silver dial model was a nod to the retailer’s 2017 Habring² limited edition – which was launched well before “sector” dials became a fad. The new pair continue with the same ...
Time+Tide
With a sandblasted dial and movement finish, the new Speake-Marin Openworked is a nod to classic watchmaking techniques.The post Speake-Marin’s Openworked Sandblasted brings back a traditional look appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Adorned with touches of orange, Fratello and Fortis introduce a large flieger chronograph with a funky brown dial.The post The Fortis Flieger F-43 Bicompax Fratello Capsule Edition is the publication’s latest collaboration appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
After the release of the scaled-down version of the Spirit Zulu Time, Longines has unveiled a new iteration of the Spirit Flyback Chronograph. This variation features a titanium case and bracelet, and an anthracite dial only for now, while preserving the design of the existing steel models. Initial thoughts Longines should be acknowledged for its success in creating vintage-style watches, as evident in its aviation-inspired Spirit collection, notably the Flyback Chronograph. The introduction of this chronograph in titanium shows a continuation of this successful run, despite its large case size. As for this timepiece, it maintains the design features and case dimensions of the steel Spirit Flyback. However, it’s worth noting that it is currently only offered with an anthracite dial. It would have been preferable for the new case material to be accompanied by a new dial colour to truly make this release stand out. The titanium Spirit Flyback is offered with two strap options: one with a NATO strap priced at US$4,850 and another with a bracelet priced at US$5,200. Despite a modest price increase compared to the steel models, it continues to deliver exceptional value for its quality. The Flyback in titanium Much like its steel counterparts, the titanium Spirit Flyback Chronograph exudes a distinct vintage-inspired design. Presently, it is only offered with a sun ray brushed anthracite dial as compared to the steel models available in either black or blue dials. The stee...
Worn & Wound
Field watches, as Zach alluded to earlier this week, are, in some sense, the best kind of watch. Free from extraneous moving parts or features, field watches are designed to do what watches do – tell time legibly and not break. At no point was this more necessary than during World War II when Britain’s Ministry of Defense issued a request for durable watches under the specification “WWW”: wrist, watch, waterproof. One of the famous 12 companies (AKA the Dirty Dozen) that answered the call was the Timor Watch Company. The rest, as they say, is history, and eight decades later we have the modern successor to the Timor WWW. Let’s get the specs out of the way: The new Modern Field 100M’s case is PVD-coated 316L steel for maximum stealth, and the domed crystal is also treated to combat glare. Timor has elected to preserve the watch’s historic 36.5mm size while keeping the remaining dimensions very reasonable: 12mm thick, 45.5mm lug to lug (18mm lug width), and 94 grams on the seat belt nylon strap. Inside is a modified Sellita SW260 movement. Water resistance is 100 meters, which Timor considers perfect “in rain, river, or during a rigorous workout.” The dial of the Modern Field 100M is what you would expect from a no-nonsense watch: Large Arabic hour markers paired with their 24-hour equivalents. Along the chapter ring is a smaller scale of 5-minute increments. Simple pencil hour and minute hands, carried over from the original Timor Dirty Dozen, make time-te...
SJX Watches
In an unexpected movement, Louis Vuitton and Akrivia have just announced the Louis Vuitton x Rexhep Rexhepi LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie. Reflecting the collaborative nature of the watch, it has two faces – the tinted sapphire dial for the time and a fired enamel dial on the back for the chronograph. The LVRR-01 also boasts an unusual combination of complications: a chronograph with a chiming mechanism that strikes once every elapsed minute, along with a five-minute tourbillon – and a constant-force gear train. [NB: The watch pictured is one of two prototypes so the finishing, particularly the cleanliness of the movement, is not up to par.] Technically-minded enthusiasts will appreciate the sophistication of the movement, since the chronograph and sonnerie are driven by secondary barrel and going train that is effectively a one-minute constant force mechanism. Limited to 10 watches, the LVRR-01 is the first of a series of five collaborative projects between Louis Vuitton and independent watchmakers. The next project will be revealed in a year’s time, with the subsequent projects following the same annual timetable. Initial thoughts The LVRR-01 has the heft and gleam of a finely made watch. The chamfered edges on the platinum case immediately catch the eye, particularly because of the contrast with the brushed surfaces, and then the movement finishing becomes apparent through sapphire crystal. In fact, the smoked sapphire crystal perhaps obscures too much of the...
Worn & Wound
Beaubleu is a French brand that we’ve covered a handful of times since their debut in 2017, and we certainly have a soft spot for their quirky and contemporary design language. The basic idea is rather simple, at least on paper: instead of traditional hands, Beaubleu uses circular rings of different sizes to tell the time. As they move around the dial, it creates a very different impression than what you’d see on a normal watch, and causes some reflection as to why traditional handsets, with their inherent precision, are so commonplace to begin with. Like Alain Silberstein’s designs, Beaubleu’s watches remind us that a watch can be anything, and that shape is a critical element in how we relate to watches both practically and emotionally. Beaubleu, to this point, has also done a fantastic job of using color to drive these ideas home. With their new Ecce line of watches, the brand’s first permanent collection, Beaubleu has further refined their aesthetic, adding a bracelet for the first time, and making subtle changes to their dials and cases that allow everything to work together a bit more harmoniously. The core of the design, of course, is unchanged. We still get the unique circular hands in the three models that launch the Ecce collection, with a large running seconds circle, a small hours circle, and a medium sized minutes circle in between. The 39mm cases have sculpted flanks and prominent, brushed circular bezel that complements the hands as well the circ...
SJX Watches
The latest release from Scottish microbrand anOrdain continues its run of interesting enamel dials. The Model 3 Method combines a stamped silver dial covered with translucent enamel to create a deep, textured finish similar to that of flinqué enamel. Created in collaboration with Method Studio, a Scottish woodworking studio, the pattern resembles a wooden block that has been artistically chiselled away. Initial thoughts This is not the first time anOrdain has used a textured silver dial base covered in translucent enamel. We have seen it before in the Model 1 Fumé, which boasted a hand hammered finish. In the new Model 3 the indentations are far more pronounced, giving a more dramatic look. I have been a fan of the Glasgow-based brand for a while now, and its willingness to try new things arguably shows a mindset that is lacking in the wider industry. While nothing technically new has been done here, the combination of a woodworking texture and technique, with the miniature canvas of a watch dial has given us this brilliant look that sits perfectly within the anOrdain aesthetic. While the dial is fantastic, there is one area that I could conceivably suggest an improvement from studying the imagery that we’ve been provided. And that is instead of pad printing the markers onto the dial surface, instead printing them onto the underside of the crystal which would have left the dial texture completely untouched. But that is really the only room for aesthetic improvement...
Time+Tide
Speake-Marin offers their entry-level Academic in a new Rouge configuration. The distinct red of the dial is achieved through 14 layers of Pantone 188C-coloured lacquer. Grade 5 titanium cases in two sizes, 38mm and 42mm, and neither is a limited edition. Dressier timepieces have been overshadowed in an era where sports watches reign supreme, an … ContinuedThe post The new Speake-Marin Academic Rouge offers their entry design in a new hue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Longines present a new iteration of the Spirit Flyback chronograph with a grade 5 titanium case and red dial accents.The post The new Longines Spirit Flyback Titanium addresses a point of contention within the collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Longines DolceVita receives a Mini makeover, with three dial variations in a host of bright colours.The post The Longines Mini DolceVita launches at a star-studded evening appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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From the beginnings of the wristwatch in the trenches of World War I to mass production in World War II, we tell you all about the field watch.The post What is a field watch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Breguet subtly flexes their horological muscles with a grand feu enamel dial and a repeater calibre.The post The Breguet Classique Répétition Minutes 7637 is stealth wealth, personified appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Luxury is typically associated with lavishness and opulence – diamonds, gems, yellow gold and the like. Some people want everyone around them to know they are doing well, their wardrobe and accessories a clear tell of this. Others, however, prefer to fly under the radar with their watches – a phenomenon that’s recently gained traction … ContinuedThe post Andrew picks 3 new stealth wealth watches for 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Piaget adds to the Altiplano Concept family with a new Ultimate model in a cobalt allow case and dark blue dial in time for Watches & Wonders Shanghai.
Time+Tide
Glashütte Original's annual update to their Sixties Chronograph brings a sportier vibe to the vintage-inspired watch, with an intriguingly-textured grey dégradé dial and a new fabric strap.The post Glashütte Original Sixties Chronograph Annual Edition 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
As soon as John Harrison realised that a pocket watch could be made to be just as accurate as his 60cm-tall chronometer sea clocks, the road to wristwatch chronometry had begun. Most watch enthusiasts are familiar with how wristwatches became popular after WWI, thanks to the convenience of keeping your hands free while soldiering. It … ContinuedThe post How chronometers went from ships to wrists appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
It’s a tale as old as time: You want to leave the house and you need to bring more stuff with you than your pockets can accommodate. A backpack would be nice, but just seems like overkill. Bringing a jacket and loading up the pockets is downright clunky (and who wants to do that when it’s hot out? yuck.) Carrying a sling bag is a modern solution to that age-old problem of too much stuff and not enough pockets. That’s where the new Arris Sling from Craighill comes in. Let’s take a look at this handy piece of kit that bridges the gap between overloaded pockets and looking like a kid going back to school with their bulky back pack. It’s a tale as old as time: You want to leave the house and you need to bring more stuff with you than your pockets can accommodate. A backpack would be nice, but just seems like overkill. Bringing a jacket and loading up the pockets is downright clunky (and who wants to do that when it’s hot out? yuck.) Carrying a sling bag is a modern solution to that age-old problem of too much stuff and not enough pockets. That’s where the new Arris Sling from Craighill comes in. Let’s take a look at this handy piece of kit that bridges the gap between overloaded pockets and looking like a kid going back to school with their bulky back pack. The post The Arris Sling by Craighill Is The Perfect City Sling appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
While the numbers reveal many of you love luxury timepieces, there is an equal, if not larger, interest in more budget-friendly watches – this is especially true within the daily wearer segment. As much as people romanticise the idea, not everyone is comfortable getting down and dirty with a pricey watch on their wrist. While … ContinuedThe post Andrew picks out three new watches under $1,000 from Geneva Watch Days appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Defined by its custom-design typography and restrained styling, the Slim d’Hermès is Hermès’ signature gentlemen’s watch. Though the time-only model is the best known, the collection also includes complications, including the recently face-lifted Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel in titanium. Originally available only in precious metals, the perpetual calendar now has a titanium case – but with precious metal accents – along with a gently redesigned dial. While the changes to the dial are modest, they add a degree of offbeat style that is characteristic of Hermès. The second time zone display at six o’clock with its seemingly jumbled numerals Key takeaways Elegant and restrained in both design and feel, the watch is simple on its face but made interesting with quirky details like the jumbled second time zone display. The design stands out from comparable perpetual calendars without being excessive. The case is slim and proportioned just right, while the frosted finish contrasts well with the polished gold components. The Vaucher-derived movement is high quality in both construction and finish, albeit in an industrial style, though the “H” monogram decor is not for everyone, while the second time zone function has limited utility. Much of the qualities of the watch reflect Hermes’ vertical integration of the production process, which includes dial and case making. Initial thoughts At a glance the Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel looks lik...
Worn & Wound
Hello everyone. Just the other day, we had the distinct pleasure of launching a new limited edition collaboration, the Brew x Worn & Wound Metric Chrono Regulator. A trio of quirky and colorful watches, they were designed to be different from your ordinary watch. As indicated in the name, these are chrono regulators, or regulator chronographs, to be more precise. What that means is that they don’t tell time with the standard arrangement of hour and minute hands at the center of the dial. Rather, the hour is read on a sub-dial, and minutes at the center. On top of this, there is also a standard chronograph function. The post [VIDEO] How To Use The Brew x Worn & Wound Metric Chrono Regulator Limited Edition appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
The Maurice Lacroix Aikon Skeleton Urban Tribe introduces even more complexity and depth At 39mm in diameter, it’s a comfortable fit for such a visually-loud watch The skeletonised dial artfully shows off the ML115S movement, based on a Sellita SW200 Maurice Lacroix aren’t afraid to get experimental, and the Urban Tribe is a key example … ContinuedThe post Maurice Lacroix Aikon Skeleton Urban Tribe appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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