Revolution
Ulysse Nardin Perpetual Ludwig and Ulysse Nardin GMT Perpetual
To mark the leap year, Revolution profiles perpetual calendar wristwatches that mattered. In this instalment, two wristwatches from Ulysse Nardin.
Results for Above the Date Window
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SJX Watches
Hands-On: Ulysse Nardin Diver X Cape Horn and Nemo Point
Dive watches priced below US$10,000 are one of the saturated and competitive segments in watchmaking. The category is dominated by two dive watch icons, the Rolex Submariner and the Omega Seamaster, both of which set the bar high with high-spec, in-house escapements equipped with high-tech hairsprings and next-level chronometer certifications. Ulysse Nardin smartly steered away from the conventional dive-watch look with last year’s new Diver X. Created to mark the brand’s newly-forged partnership with Vendée Globe, a non-stop solo yacht race around the globe, the Diver X Cape Horn and Diver X Nemo Point are a contemporary take on the standard Diver Chronometer 44mm, dressed up in new materials and colours but retaining the same basic specs, namely a 300 m rating and an in-house movement with a proprietary escapement. The Diver X Cape Horn Dubbed the “Everest of the Seas” because of its reputation as the toughest sailing competition in the world, the Vendée Globe is such an arduous journey that the eight races since 1989 have claimed three lives. Competitors have to travel over 40,000 km, a round-the-world trip that takes between two to four months. Unsurprisingly, the twin Diver X editions are aggressively styled and technically robust. Form and function Each named after key points along the Vendée Globe route, the Cape Horn and Nemo Point have the longstanding, symmetrical layout of a Ulysse Nardin diver’s watch – originally inspired by the dial of the br...
Quill & Pad
Omega Constellation Manhattan: An Overlooked Masterpiece Of Design
As a fan of the classic 1950s and 1960s Omega Constellations, Colin Smith had always dismissed Omega’s 1982 reworking of its flagship model, known as the Constellation Manhattan, as something of an aberration from the “true” Constellation concept. His “road to Damascus” moment occurred recently when he saw a 36 mm black-dial co-axial chronometer on display at an Omega dealer in Bordeaux.
Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: Episode 79: Budget Watch Collection Fantasy Draft 2020
Four editors go head-to-head to assemble the best group of watches for under $10,000.
Deployant
Breaking news: Citizen exits Baselworld 2020. Updated with Press Release
Breaking News: Citizen is the latest to exit from Baselworld 2020, citing worries about the current epidemic of COVID-19 as the reasons.
Quill & Pad
Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1: Hands Breathing Life Into Metal
Everything Greubel Forsey does is about nurturing incredible skill, craftsmanship, and a fundamental belief in patience. This rings doubly true for the Hand Made 1. It looks absolutely perfect from every angle, and the experience is magnified when you realize that not only is this watch completely hand finished (the norm for Greubel Forsey) but wrought from scratch by an individual’s hands.
Quill & Pad
Win A Watch! Leap Year Giveaway Of A Gorilla Fastback GT Bandit
It's a leap year, and thanks to our friends at Gorilla Watches, that means it's time to win a watch. On February 29, 2020 we will be drawing the winner of a Gorilla Fastback GT Bandit. Read on to enter and perhaps even win this easy scavenger hunt. But hurry, this doesn't happen every day (or year)!
Quill & Pad
Why I Bought It: Ming Watches Model 17.06 Monolith
Incoming! If there’s a happier word in the watch enthusiast’s vernacular, GaryG is not sure what it is. After several months in the queue, he recently received the happy news that his Model 17.06 Monolith from the Ming Watches team had arrived. Here he shares why he bought it and what he thinks of it after wearing for several months.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko Presage 2020 Limited Edition Watches
The new Presage Prestige watch is inspired by a classic from Seiko’s past, their first-ever chronograph.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
New Casio G-Shock Mudmaster GGB100BTN-1A: Casio Partners with Burton Snowboards
G-Shock has recently released a Mudmaster series watch in collaboration with Burton snowboards. Burton Snowboards wrote the book on colabs in the mid-2000s. They always seem to nail the function and execution to make a “thing” become something special.
Deployant
Zenith El Primero 1969 re-edition 42 mm
Zenith is the first manufacture to create an automatic integrated column wheel movement, and promptly christened it the El Primero.
Quill & Pad
Out-Of-This-World Jupiterium: Panerai’s Tribute To Galileo Galilei, A Geocentric Planetarium Perpetual Calendar – Reprise
Given Panerai’s origins in Florence, it should come as no surprise that the Italian watchmaker created a horological tribute to the insatiably curious father of modern science Galileo Galilei, who was once a resident of the Renaissance city. The Jupiterium is a one-of-a-kind geocentric planetarium with perpetual calendar.
Hodinkee
Bring a Loupe: A '70s Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, A Moonphase from IWC X Porsche Design, And A Rolex Oyster Perpetual Deepsea
Another week, another round of watches from the web worth knowing about.
Deployant
Chillout TGIF: Pegoretti Responsorium
In the world of bicycling, the master artisans are much like watchmaking.We take a look at the Responsorium, the masterwork Dario Pegoretti.
Deployant
In Conversation: Sherrie Han, Founder of Eliana Timekeeper
A new brand - the Eliana Timekeeper. A Singapore brand, designed in Singapore. And targeted for the ladies. We speak to the founder, Sherrie Han.
Revolution
Seiko Presage Prestige Line 2020 Limited Edition
Seiko just enriched the Presage collection with three new cool, limited-edition references inspired by an icon from its past.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Girard-Perregaux Classic Bridges 45 mm
Girard-Perregaux is best known for the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges, one of the most distinctive and beautiful movements in watchmaking – even 160 years after it was first designed. Characterised by its symmetry and arrow-shaped bridges, the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges is one of the few movements has an irrefutably iconic design. Some of the three-bridges magic has democratised with the Girard-Perregaux Classic Bridges 45 mm, a time-only watch that’s a more affordable take on the 19th century design. Constant Girard’s movement French watchmaker Jean-Antoine Lépine revolutionised the construction of the watch movement around 1770 when he invented the Lépine calibre, which used bridges and cocks to secure the moving parts on the base plate, replacing the prevailing pillar construction where the parts were held between two full plates. Almost a century later, Girard-Perregaux founder Constant Girard took Lépine’s idea a step further by rethinking the layout of the movement, with an eye towards not just mechanical function, but also beauty. A Girard-Perregaux pocket watch with nickel-plated parallel bridges, c. 1875. Photo – Antiquorum Starting in the mid 1850s, Girard began working on a caliber with its barrel, gear train, and regulator arranged vertically in a straight line. They were secured by identical, parallel bridges shaped like an elongated rhombus, creating an incredibly elegant equilibrium in the movement layout. Eventually the large, par...
Deployant
Rare Watches: De Bethune DB27 Fort Aero
Any De Bethune is rare. They make many piece uniques, but here is a 5 piece limited edition in collaboration with a private jet company: the DB27 Fort Aero.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Keaton Myrick ‘1 of 30’ Wristwatch
An American watchmaker who unveiled his first watch in 2013, Keaton Myrick has spent the subsequent years refining the 1 of 30, a wristwatch crafted with traditional, artisanal methods. Since then the 38-year old has delivered several examples of the 30-piece edition, each customised to the client’s request in terms of design; the watch pictured is numbered “30/30” and is largely stock, with the only custom option being the engine-turned seconds sub-dial. Based in Sisters, a town in the Pacific Northwest state of Oregon, Keaton studied watchmaking at the Lititz Watch Technicum (LWT), a school in Pennsylvania established by Rolex, which he joined after graduation. After several years there, he returned to his hometown to set up a workshop specialising in repair and restoration. 1 in 30, numbered “30/30” Keaton’s time at LWT was the genesis of the 1 in 30. According to Keaton, each student at the LWT had to build a school watch based on the ETA Unitas 6497 (or the related 6498), a project that evolved into the 1 in 30. With inspiration from independent watchmakers like Philippe Dufour as well as complicated vintage pocket watches – the historical inspiration is particularly evident in the winding click – Keaton modified and refined the common and robust Unitas movement to create the impressive and original cal. 29.30 inside the 1 in 30. Cal. 29.30 Being easily available and reliable, the Unitas 6497 and 6498 are popular base movements for independent watch...
Revolution
Rado Masters a New Material with Captain Cook Bronze
Rado has unveiled a new bronze version of the iconic Captain Cook diver, the first time the self-styled “Master of Materials” has made a bronze-cased watch.
Hodinkee
Just Because: On Not Picking A Birthday Watch
50 is the new 40.
Revolution
Closer Look: Baltic Aquascaphe
A small dive watch from a small French brand knocks it out of the park.
Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: Episode 78: Gear Patrol's Eric Yang & Chinese Watch Sales Woes
The product guru talks about stocking up, paring back, and the importance of helping people find their passions.
SJX Watches
Obituary: Kiu Tai Yu, Chinese Independent Watchmaker
Born in China but having worked in Hong Kong for decades, Kiu Tai Yu was long reputed to have been the first watchmaker to produce a tourbillon wristwatch in Asia, having premiered his own in 1990. Before that, only watchmakers in the West had ever produced a tourbillon, a device that was then still regarded as the pinnacle of artisanal watchmaking. A year after unveiling his tourbillon, Kiu became the first Asian member of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI), the association of independent watchmakers that had been established by Svend Andersen and Vincent Calabrese just a few years before. The news of Kiu’s death was first announced by Mr Calabrese on Facebook. Kiu Tai Yu in his shop. Photo – Vincent Calabrese But it was in 1993 that Kiu debuted his most memorable invention, the Mystery Tourbillon. Equipped with an oscillating balance wheel making one revolution a minute, but seemingly with neither a cage nor bridge. The secret lay in a clear sapphire plate that functioned as the upper bridge, while the cage of the tourbillon was reduced to a fish-shaped platform underneath the balance wheel, a construction that has since been adopted in various forms by brands like Montblanc and Zenith. Not content with a mere Mystery Tourbillon, Kiu subsequently installed the invention in a rectangular form movement, and later even added a jumping hour time display. It’s worth pointing out that every one of Kiu’s tourbillon wristwatches was unique, and ...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Ep. #163: Talking Timex… Our New Darling?
Timex has been on a roll since the release of the Marlin a little while back. Since then, the watch world has gone completely nuts over reissues like the Q and vintage-inspired models like the recent M79. Join Mike and Kaz as they run through Timex's greatest hits, analyze the brand's overall strategy, and consider adding Timex models to their own personal collections.
Deployant
New: Vacheron Constantin Égérie
Vacheron Constantin introduces the Égérie, a whole new line of ladies watches. Discover the three watches in the launch series.
WatchAdvice
Sinn 104 Everyday Perfection?
Sinn. Unashamedly built for purpose, where function trumps form. The German brand is known for creating over-engineered tool watches that will last the wearer a lifetime, but perhaps not so necessary for everyday life, job depending of course. While the aviation aesthetic ties are strong and well documented, Sinn has expanded in recent years to entice a broader consumer with options that are more suited to civilian/everyday life. The Sinn104 StSa I W, being a collective hybrid of aviation and diver resulting from this design direction. CASE: The 104 could be considered mostly a modern interpretation of a pilots watch with a sprinkle of diver DNA. The highly polished, stainless steel case and lugs scream dressy attire, yet the angular, sharp lugs give a slightly more aggressive demeanour. Small crown guards are provided to add some protection to the more than adequate signed crown, which at times can dig into the wrist with specific movements if not worn higher on the wrist. On the reverse, a sapphire display case back reveals the SW220-1 movement along with some minor decorations such as gold rotor and blued screws. The drawback here being the 38hr power reserve which at times can be a reach and winding of the movement is…not the smoothest. The tech inside includes; anti-shock, anti-magnetism and a hefty 200mWR which puts other “sports watch” to shame. DIAL: There is no doubt the 104 is built for one purpose…legibility. The beautiful white glossy dial...
Deployant
Chopard Mille Miglia 2019 Race Edition
Chopard celebrates three decades of partnership with the Mille Miglia race, la corsa più bella del mondo which is raced over a 1,600 km loop running from Brescia to Rome and back.
Quill & Pad
Greubel Forsey Art Piece Edition Historique: A Brand Aesthetic Retrospective In One Wristwatch – Reprise
The awesome Greubel Forsey Art Piece Edition Historique is a true coalescence of a decade and a half of horological exploration into something stunningly simple and complicated all at once. Joshua Munchow explains why.
Quill & Pad
Michel Perchin Timepiece #1: From Pens To Watches, Elegance Reigns
For the Michel Perchin Model #1, designer and brand owner Patrick Pinkston works with a well-versed goldsmith workshop in the United Kingdom that he describes as “literally fabricating one case at a time.” There, each 36 x 55 mm white gold case is hand-finished and engraved. What else makes this independently crafted timepiece notable? Nancy Olson has the full story.