3,201 articles · 285 videos found · page 13 of 117
Monochrome
Founded in 1974, Credor is Seiko’s high-end brand created to showcase Japanese haute horlogerie, artistic finishing and ultra-thin watchmaking. Originally exclusive to Japan, Credor began its international expansion in 2024 with the launch of the Locomotive model, a watch originally designed by Genta, and will consolidate its position as it will soon be exhibited at […]
Monochrome
Founded by Thomas Fleming, Fleming is part of a new generation of American independents approaching watchmaking as a complete design exercise rather than a sum of components. The inaugural Series 1 Launch Edition already set the tone, cohesion between case, dial and movement, unified by the behaviour of light, offering a combination of refined proportions, […]
Teddy Baldassarre
It’s easy to think of watches as falling purely within the accessory realm, valued for their aesthetic and their finish detail. Sure, they fulfill a practical utility by telling the time, but that could be considered a redundant byproduct these days, as most of us are rarely outside of reach of any number of devices that provide the same utility. How watches serve their purpose today is very different from how they were used in the past. While much of that is out of necessity for the sake of self-preservation, the humble, purpose- built tool watch carries a deep history of use as just that, a vital tool used by servicemen and women. The stories that these watches tell serve as a reminder of the role watches once played, and connect with a new generation of enthusiasts. Every military across the globe has a history of using specialized tools in their endeavors, and watches have been a big part of that kit - from UDT divers and their dive watches, to pilots relying on their wrist-bound timers to calculate fuel flow rates. These watches enjoy an enviable lore that inspires many of the designs we see today from brands large and small. One particular outfit known for its use of spec-built watches is the British Special Air Service, or the SAS. While much of the information about the SAS is highly classified, we do know a thing or two about the watches these specialized service members have employed throughout the years. [toc-section heading="A (Brief) History of SAS"] P...
Teddy Baldassarre
Digital watches - at least, those of the electronic variety - have only been around for just over half a century at this point, which is a relatively brief moment in the totality of watch history. Nevertheless, they have exerted in that time an outsized influence on the technological and design evolution of the watch industry as well as on the overall culture. As the term “vintage” has been widely interpreted these days to describe any object more than 20 years old, here is our list of the 10 most important “vintage” digital watches (including a handful of worthy analog-digital models). And good news for fans of their retro style: many of them still live on in some form today. [toc-section heading="Breitling Emergency (1995)"] Introduced in 1995, the Breitling Emergency is literally a watch that has saved lives. The first watch with a built-in micro-transmitter that operated on an international air distress frequency, enabling a pilot to contact search-and-rescue teams after an emergency or crash landing. In 2015, after the original had racked up many notable exploits, Breitling launched the second-generation Emergency II, which added a dual-frequency personal locator beacon (PLB), that can both issue alerts as well as guide rescuers to the wearer’s location by accessing a network of satellites and ground receiving stations. The analog-digital display, powered by Breitling’s thermocompensated SuperQuartz movement, offers an array of indicators including 1...
Monochrome
The audacity of Horologer Ming as a watch designer and an independent watchmaker isn’t to be demonstrated anymore… Over its short life, the brand has managed to create a strong identity, yet it never ceases to evolve. Since its debut in 2017, the collective led by designer and photographer Ming Thein has built an impressive […]
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Worn & Wound
One of the more unexpected developments in the enthusiast watch space over the laste year or has been the emergence of the jump hour as a staple among design driven and creative microbrands and affordable independents. It seems like they are popping up just about everywhere at price points that encourage collectors to take a chance on a very niche complication. For those of us who have been around this stuff for a while, it’s genuinely been kind of surprising, as we can clearly remember a time when very few people gave these watches a second thought, and smaller brands were absolutely not interested in putting watches like these into the market. The jump hour is pretty far removed from the vintage inspired sports watches that have had a stranglehold on affordable watch enthusiasm in recent memory. But as the pendulum swings in another direction, the more brands are finding an opportunity to experiment with this very old fashioned complication. Christopher Ward is actually no stranger to jump hour watches, having released their first back in 2011. Their latest is still powered by the venerable JJ01 movement, a caliber that predicted much of the brand’s future success and interest in higher end watchmaking. The C1 Jump Hour Mk V in “Dusk” red is the brand’s latest, and limited edition variant of the Jump Hour Mk V that Griffin reviewed here. The broad strokes are of course the same: a 39mm steel case measuring 47.5mm from lug to lug and 14mm thick, with a multi...
Fratello
Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC) is the largest Swiss independent testing facility for watch movements. Founded in 1973, this non-profit foundation aims to guarantee the precision of Swiss watches through a neutral, independent, and rigorous method. Watches with movements that passed the tests can be called “COSC-certified chronometers,” accurate to within -4/+6 seconds per […] Visit A Closer Look At COSC’s New Excellence Chronometer Certification to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Do you remember that scene in The Ten Commandments when Charlton Heston’s Moses walks down the mountain with those giant stone tablets? I’m pretty sure the first commandment on his list was “EVENTUALLY, ALL WATCH BRANDS MUST MAKE AN INTEGRATED BRACELET SPORTS WATCH!” Does that sound right? I could be misremembering some of the finer details of the film, but I’m pretty sure that’s a thing that happened. Because eventually, as we continue to discover month after month, year after year, all brands do try their hand at an integrated bracelet sports watch. Even the ones you might not expect. Like Ming. Today, Ming introduces the 56.00 Starfield, their first integrated bracelet sports watch. Perhaps it’s a little shortsighted of me to suggest that we couldn’t have expected something like this from Ming. In a lot of ways, it’s exactly the kind of watch we should expect, because one of the ideas that really seems to drive the brand is solving big design challenges. Integrated bracelet sports watches have a natural aesthetic appeal in the way form a continuous line all around the wrist. The challenge is in making them feel special and unique. The “good” integrated bracelet sports watches tend to all have a somewhat similar appearance simply because there are only so many ways you can accomplish the most basic goals of a watch like this without going completely off the rails. Ming’s stated goal with the Starfield was to make a watch more comfortable to we...
Monochrome
Independent watchmaking rarely stands still, but Horologer MING has made a habit of using evolution rather than repetition as its driving force. Since the brand’s founding in 2017, Ming Thein and his team have mastered light, form and restraint, while also pushing technical boundaries behind the scenes. With the recent launch of the fifth-generation design […]
Monochrome
The revival of a long-dormant watchmaking name always sparks our curiosity at MONOCHROME. Born in 1919, the Manufacture des Montres Niton S.A. became known for its watches and movements featuring jumping hours. Niton supplied movements to Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Cartier, Gubelin and many more… Today, the brand returns with the Niton Prima, an elaborate […]
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Worn & Wound
One trend in the microbrand/small independent category that I’m glad to see more of already in these early days of 2026 is brands doing more on their own, in-house. Those words, “in-house,” have developed an almost toxic reputation in some circles as they’ve been used liberally to imply a level of craft or development that is not really there when you strip away all the marketing talk. But a handful of brands are taking it back, using it to designate certain manufacturing processes that they’ve taken ownership of over overseas factories. Oak & Oscar has just announced a new watch, the Humboldt ExP-02 that reflects some of the ten year old brand’s new manufacturing capabilities in an exciting and unique way. At a glance, you could be forgiven for thinking this is an ordinary version of the Humboldt, Oak & Oscar’s “classic adventure watch.” Subtly, however, it shows off real watchmaking skill and a willingness on the brand’s part to experiment with new techniques. The centerpiece of the ExP-02 is the dial, which keeps the familiar sandwich style construction that Oak & Oscar is so well known for, but refines it and personalizes it for this piece. Every aspect of the dial manufacturing is done to a very high level in the Oak & Oscar workshop, using new watchmaking equipment that the brand has invested in specifically to create unique components for watches like the ExP-02. According to Oak & Oscar, the rehaut and main dial plate are both cut from alu...
Monochrome
Since its rebirth in 2015, Czapek & Cie has produced a focused but diverse family of collections: the elegant Quai des Bergues, the sporty-chic Antarctique, the recent Promenade, the exceptional Place Vendôme, and the refined Faubourg de Cracovie chronograph series. Introduced in 2018, the Faubourg de Cracovie was Czapek’s first chronograph, powered by the calibre […]
SJX Watches
The start of every new year is a time of reflection for many. For collectors and fans of Vacheron Constantin (VC), one might wonder how to follow 2025, which was a consequential year for the brand on several fronts. So it’s interesting that the brand’s first major announcement of 2026 is not a watch, but a competition. Announced in partnership with Phillips, VC is hosting the inaugural Concours d’Élégance Horlogère, featuring seven categories and a prize for each. Existing owners of VC wristwatches and pocket watches can register until April 30th, at which point the jury will begin the work of choosing seven winners that will be announced November 10, 2026. Seven categories The Concours d’Élégance format is usually associated with vintage automobiles, with events staged regularly around the world at venues like Villa d’Este, Hampton Court Palace, and Pebble Beach – unsurprisingly, many such events are sponsored by watch brands, most notably VC’s sister brand A. Lange & Söhne. Adapting the format to wristwatches, VC has opened the field to any of its watches produced between 1755 and 1999, divided into seven categories: chiming watches, chronographs, astronomical complications (including calendar watches), multiple complications, Chronomètre Royal, Métiers d’art, and design. The choice to give the Chronomètre Royal its own category is interesting, and might be a sign of things to come. Originally a high-precision, time-only pocket watch collection t...
Monochrome
As a watch enthusiast and a fan of classic motorsport (superficial, but still), the Union Glashütte Noramis Chronograph Limited Edition Sachsen Classic 2025 struck me immediately for the clear connection to the 1952 Grosser Werkmeister, the from-behind-the-Iron-Curtain, one-off East German-built racing roadster that inspired it. It´s amazing how Union Glashütte ties its themed design to […]
Fratello
You wouldn’t necessarily consider time-and-date watches when thinking of complicated haute horlogerie. Even with a power reserve indicator added in, it still doesn’t sound very impressive or complex, does it? Well, the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Date proves that sometimes the simplest things require the hardest solutions. I got the chance to spend some […] Visit Hands-On With The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Date In Pink Gold to read the full article.
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Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko has a well known and understood design language that is expansive in nature. It’s a style that feels just as at home on a humble skin diver as it does in the context of a field watch or chronograph. It always feels comfortable, but never derivative. Like a perfectly well worn-in pair of jeans that you keep coming back to. The Speedtimer name is a perfect example of this originality since it was first used by the brand in 1969, and it largely remains so today. The modern Speedtimer SSC813 within the Prospex collection is not entirely reliant on that history, rather, it presents a contemporary vision of a Seiko chronograph at its most accessible. [toc-section heading="Seiko And Chronographs"] Seiko plays an important role in the history of the chronograph as we experience it today. The Japanese brand’s mechanical timers of the mid ‘60s showed off a modern vision for a highly focused design that would open the door for a new generation of watches. These designs did not use a host of subdials, but rather a single timing hand and a single pusher. This is a focus that would be retained until 1969, when Seiko introduced the reference 6139, one of three automatic chronographs to be revealed that year that would shape the genre for the coming decades. Unlike the other two, the Seiko used just a single subdial which would totalize up to 30 minutes. The 6139 would have a cultural impact just as big as its horological impact, appearing in films and, in the case of the so...
Worn & Wound
When I’m planning to leave the house for a full day – whether I’m headed to work or someplace else – I’m a chronic overpacker. To me, there’s peace of mind in knowing I have an extra charger, granola bar, or jacket with me, especially when returning home isn’t easy. Traveling to the office adds an additional layer of expectation when considering a bag, as I bring multiple laptops and a lunch with me most days. I’ve gone back and forth on whether I’m Team Messenger Bag or Team Backpack when it comes to my corporate 9 to 5. I like the significant storage options that a backpack offers and the stability and comfort it provides when walking long distances. Yet messenger bags fit my usual style in a better way, and I like that I can access the main compartments while on the go (not possible with a backpack). I was really intrigued by the Global Briefcase ($149) from Topo Designs as it meant I didn’t have to commit to one camp or the other. I was curious if the brand could do both modalities equally well. My needs in a work bag are very different from my needs in an outdoor bag. The Topo Designs Rover Trail Pack I reviewed in May held all of my gear in a stacked, vertical fashion. I didn’t need to access anything particularly urgently, which meant I loaded the bag from the top down. This sort of set-up isn’t ideal for my work needs though, when I prefer all of my items to have their own space. To test out this bag, I used both carry styles over a few ...
Worn & Wound
As I’m currently in the process of planning a 15-year anniversary, I can tell you one thing, Reader: it’s not easy finding a way to pack so much into only one measly day. I mean, does a single night out sharing a Caesar salad and a couple cocktails convey all the love, memories, and various milestones? Probably not. But it’s the thought that counts, right? But, then again, maybe I’m just doing it all wrong. Take, for example, the German watchmaker, Laco, who is celebrating a much more impressive anniversary this year: their 100th. Instead of doing a two-for-one special at a chain restaurant (which is always my back-up plan), they released a watch to celebrate the occasion: the Edition 100, which is, in a way, a culmination of an ongoing mission from the brand, which has released five limited-edition releases in the past, each celebrating a key chapter in Laco’s history. For the Edition 100 specifically, the brand used the 1950’s as the springboard for the design, taking inspiration from an archival model. While the cleaner lines, slim bezel, and two-tone colorway might all read as Art Deco-adjacent, Laco’s contemporary design language, such as adjusting proportions for a more modern appearance, has filtered through to make a watch worthy of bridging the gap between the watchmaker’s past and present. The 38mm stainless-steel case is coated in a gold-tone IP, which, in turn, softens the black center of the dial and complements the champagne outer ring simul...
Worn & Wound
As if winning the top prize at the GPHG were not enough, Breguet has capped off their big 250th anniversary year with the launch of what is surely their most horologically interesting and cutting edge release in years. The Expérimentale 1 is an ambitious foray into contemporary haute horlogerie from a brand that more than most is associated with classicism. It incorporates and merges multiple technologies and advancements into a remarkably cohesive idea that might even have those of us who have always bristled at the controversial Marine collection rethinking its potential. The showstopping feature of the new Expérimentale 1 is the tourbillon, the first ever to beat at 10 Hz. Bregust is quick to remind us that most tourbillons run at a rate of 2.5 Hz, so this represents a dramatic increase and in theory should provide a variety of chronometric benefits, including rate stability over the duration of the power reserve and a better baseline level of accuracy. But it’s not just a high frequency tourbillon. Breguet has also developed and introduced a new magnetic escapement that is designed to provide constant force to the balance. The logic here is fairly straightforward even if the mechanics themselves are, frankly, somewhat difficult wrap your arms around without real watchmaking experience (this, by the way, is essentially my constant of being as I observe similar watchmaking advancements – wide eyed and impressed but quite frequently confused by all the math and ph...
SJX Watches
A window into the early days of contemporary independent watchmaking, the upcoming Phillips Hong Kong auction offers an unexpectedly diverse line-up, including a single-owner collection of 1990s watches. The indie selection ranges from Daniel Roth in the late 1980s to Philippe Dufour’s influential finissage. And the historically-minded enthusiast will also notice the catalog includes work from an era when star independent watchmakers, such as Louis Cottier, counted brands as their clients. Lot 982 – Daniel Roth Ref. 2187 Tourbillon “Double Face” After helping establish Breguet as a Swiss watchmaker, Daniel Roth established his eponymous brand in 1988 with his inaugural model being the ref. C187/2187, a tourbillon wristwatch with two faces. The front indicates the time and showcases the tourbillon at six o’clock, while the reverse is home to the date and power reserve indicator. Despite the strikingly exotic look for the time – remember this was the late 1980s – the tourbillon actually employs the familiar Lemania tourbillon calibre, unsurprising given that Mr Roth helped with the construction of the calibre while he was at Breguet. While the bones are Lemania, the aesthetic is uniquely Daniel Roth. The grey dial has a pinstripe guilloche while the three-armed seconds hand indicates the time on a three-layer scale. Just last year, Louis Vuitton resurrected the Daniel Roth marque with a new generation of the iconic tourbillon powered by an all-new calibre deve...
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Teddy Baldassarre
If you’re new to the watch-collecting hobby, you’ve undoubtedly seen or heard references to watches with fluted bezels, but what does that description actually mean? Are fluted bezels a feature of sports watches or dress watches, of watches for men or for ladies? Are they designed for practical use or purely as an aesthetic touch? As is common in the world of watches, the answers to all of these questions are not as simple as you might think. Before getting into the fluted type in particular, let’s get really basic and review what a watch’s bezel is and what it’s for. As we explore in more detail here, a bezel is the front part of a watch’s case (often but not always ring-shaped) that frames the dial and secures the crystal. Bezels can be made of the same material as the case middle and/or the caseback, but can also be made of a different material. They can also be thin or wide; stationary or built to rotate in either one direction or both; purely decorative (i.e., set with diamonds) or utilitarian in nature (i.e., inscribed with a scale for some type of calculation). Fluting is defined as “a groove or set of grooves forming a surface decoration,” so a fluted bezel is one that features this type of grooved or ribbed texture on its top surface. Initially, as with most every element of a watch, a fluted bezel design was designed with a practical purpose in mind: the grooved surface made it easier for a watchmaker to screw the bezel tightly into the case to...
Monochrome
Creativity, impeccable artisanship, and a good dose of poetic licence are hallmark traits of Hermès watches. With such a rich repertoire of luxury goods, design features often migrate from one product line to another, as seen in the beautiful, handcrafted dials inspired by the brand’s colourful silk scarves. The latest transversal exchange concerns the decidedly […]
SJX Watches
The Seiko Collection 1 is the first commercial release from the brand’s revived Power Design Project. The look revisits the Tissé, one of many popular Seiko designs from the 1980s. A delicate watch on a beaded bracelet, it was a big hit in Japan. Four decades later, its spirit returns in a compact, unisex format designed to be worn loosely like jewellery. Designed by Yuya Suganuma, the Collection 1 debuts as a 500-piece limited edition in each of three colours, blending typical Seiko build quality with a playful, accessory-first design. Initial thoughts For much of the Swiss watch industry, the 1980s was an era marked by the painful triumph of quartz technology. But on the other side of the world, quartz pioneer Seiko was thriving. The brand’s catalogues of the era reflects the optimism of the moment with an astonishing number of interesting designs, many of which have been reimagined over the years; we’ll likely see more of them in the future. The Tissé was one such model, introduced as a ladies watch in 1984. A tiny watch on a beaded steel bracelet, the Tissé was designed to be worn loosely, and became a big hit in the home market. The Tissé was eventually discontinued, but the concept was reimagined in 2022 as part of the brand’s re-launched Power Design Project, an internal design initiative with the theme of “rebirth”. The watch that would become the Collection 1 drew attention for questioning traditional norms for wristwatch ergonomics. It was designe...
Fratello
You should have been there. The Yew Tree Ball (Le Bal des Ifs) was a masquerade ball held in 1745 by King Louis XV of France after the wedding between his son - the Dauphin Louis - and Infanta Maria Teresa Rafaela of Spain. The ball took place in the gilded Hall of Mirrors (Galerie […] Visit Introducing: Montblanc Star Legacy Suspended Exo Tourbillon Château de Versailles to read the full article.
SJX Watches
A. Lange & Söhne is a serious minded brand that rarely does fancy in terms of dials, so even a simple cosmetic makeover is novel for the brand. That’s true for the Richard Lange Jumping Seconds with a pink gold dial that was just launched earlier this month, applying a striking new look to a technically compelling but arguably under-appreciated watch. Described officially as “pink gold” – it is actually solid gold – the dial is in a shade best known as “salmon”. This gives a vivid, fresh aesthetic to a watch that’s compact and surprisingly complex, combining a regulator-style display with a deadbeat seconds linked to a remontoir, as well as a hacking, zero-reset seconds. Initial thoughts The Richard Lange Jumping Seconds has always been an interesting watch in technical terms; the movement is unusual in function but typical Lange in terms of quality. Calibres like this are tangible illustrations of Lange’s prowess in both engineering and aesthetics when it comes to movements. Despite being relatively complex, the Jumping Seconds is unusually compact for a complicated Lange watch, giving it surprisingly wearable dimensions. This gives the watch tangible and intellectual appeal. But the original versions, both with silver dials, were a little boring. The subsequent version with a black dial was high contrast and more appealing. The latest version with a pink gold dial is the easiest to like. It’s an eye-catching livery that does justice to the mechanics ...
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