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Crown Guards

Integral case projections protecting the crown from impact; introduced on Rolex Submariner ref. 5512 in 1959.
Exhibition: Breitling’s “Time Capsule” on Four Continents SJX Watches
Breitling s “Time Capsule” Jun 26, 2024

Exhibition: Breitling’s “Time Capsule” on Four Continents

Time Capsule: The Breitling Heritage Exhibition is coming to a Breitling boutique near you as it makes 55 stops across four continents over the course of 2024. On show are the most significant vintage timepieces – mostly chronographs naturally – from the brand’s 140-year history, including the first-ever chronograph with a pusher separate from the crown, a 1915 invention of Gaston Breitling. Many of the watches on show were the first of their kind, hence the exhibition’s tagline “140 Years of Firsts”. Amongst the other highlights is the Navitimer with its slide rule bezel that Breitling describes as the first flight computer for the wrist, and the Chrono-Matic, the first self-winding chronograph movement developed by a consortium that included Breitling. Amongst the more recent timepieces is the Emergency, the first wristwatch with a built-in distress beacon. The vintage timepieces are exhibited in streamer-trunk display cases tailored to each boutique with QR codes in the showcases that provide additional historical detail Vintage timepieces are the main highlights of the show. The exhibition is making stops in key cities in the Americas, Europe, Oceania, the Middle East, and Asia, with some stops happening concurrently. Each stop will be for one to two weeks in the local Breitling boutique. Time Capsule is open to the public. Scheduling an appointment is not mandatory but recommended. A few of the cities that will host the exhibition are as follows, for the ...

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The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Goes Two-Tone SJX Watches
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Goes Two-Tone Jun 7, 2024

The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Goes Two-Tone

Omega continues to expand the range of its famous chronograph with the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Bi-Colour. Following the recent Moonwatch with a white dial, the two-tone models are based on the Speedmaster cal. 3861 from 2021. The new pair share the 42 mm case, stepped dial, and “Nixon” bracelet, but they get a two-tone livery with gold elements in the bracelet, bezel, dial, crown, and pushers. And the gold is, of course, either one of Omega’s proprietary alloys, Moonshine or Sedna gold. Initial thoughts Before the long-overdue update in 2021, most notably with the cal. 3861, the Speedmaster Moonwatch was beginning to feel dated in terms of tech and specs. The iterations introduced since the update have been spaced out well and fill logical gaps in the Moonwatch lineup, essentially creating a variant of the Moonwatch for everyone. This two-tone pair is a good example of that. Though steel-and-gold variants of the Moonwatch have existed in the past, they have never been common, or even that popular. The new models aren’t for everyone, but a useful addition to the lineup. Both are Moonwatches in terms of intrinsic features and design, but look very different from the quintessential, no-frills steel model. The two-tone models cater to someone who wants a Moonwatch with a bit more shine and a slightly retro feel. At US$18,100, the two-tone Speedmaster is a fair value proposition. It’s significantly pricier than the all-steel version, but priced in line with...

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Introducing: Panerai’s New Luminor Dieci Giorni GMT PAM01482 Fratello
Panerai s New Luminor Dieci May 21, 2024

Introducing: Panerai’s New Luminor Dieci Giorni GMT PAM01482

Panerai unveils a 44mm stainless steel Luminor with automatic GMT caliber and a 10-day power reserve. As part of the Complicazioni collection, which includes chronographs and high-end complications, the GMT allows the tracking of dual time zones. With the polished cushion-shaped case, sandwich dial, and recognizable crown protector, this new PAM01482 includes many notable Panerai […] Visit Introducing: Panerai’s New Luminor Dieci Giorni GMT PAM01482 to read the full article.

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REVIEW: Hands On With The Studio Underd0g Mint Ch0c Chip WatchAdvice
Christopher Ward Baltic Formex May 17, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The Studio Underd0g Mint Ch0c Chip

In the early 2020s, everything was shut down, and the watch industry was beginning to stagnate. However, one man decided to make the most of it and designed a watch – inadvertently helping facilitate the ‘Rise of the Microbrand.’ But do we believe the hype? Let’s find out! What We Like: A non-serious yet refined design Remarkable build quality for the price point Comfortable and well-made strap with plenty of adjustment What We Don’t: Insufficient lume Crown and pushers are extremely fiddly to use Low power reserve Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 10/10 Build Quality: 7/10 The 2020s post-pandemic watch industry has been coined by some to be the ‘Rise of the Microbrand.’ for those unfamiliar with the term, a microbrand is a watch brand, usually independently owned and run by a small team – Essentially a small business or a start-up, in normal terms. What the ‘Rise of the Microbrand’ indicates is the massive resurgence of interest in said start-ups, which in turn has been a contributing factor to saving modern horology as we know it. That might sound like hyperbole to you, but I don’t say it lightly – Microbrands like Christopher Ward, Baltic, Formex and Farer have grown to the point where they now challenge household names. Every day, promising young microbrands such as HZ Watches also come out of the woodwork, transforming the industry in small but significant ways. We even got the chance to look at a HZ wat...

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Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex GMT-Master II “Black And Gray” Rolesor 126713GRNR Vs. Stainless Steel 126710GRNR Fratello
Tudor vs Rolex battle Last Apr 21, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex GMT-Master II “Black And Gray” Rolesor 126713GRNR Vs. Stainless Steel 126710GRNR

It’s Sunday morning! Yes, that means it’s time for another Sunday Morning Showdown inspired by the new releases we saw at Watches and Wonders 2024. It’s time for a full-on Rolex showdown after last week’s Tudor vs. Rolex battle. Last year, The Crown introduced the 18K yellow gold and Rolesor versions of the GMT-Master II […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex GMT-Master II “Black And Gray” Rolesor 126713GRNR Vs. Stainless Steel 126710GRNR to read the full article.

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Tudor Debuts A Monochromatic Black Bay 41 SJX Watches
Tudor Debuts Apr 14, 2024

Tudor Debuts A Monochromatic Black Bay 41

Last year, Tudor revealed an updated version of its classical diver, the Black Bay 41 with a refreshed crown, bracelet, and bezel designs. Initially presented with a rich burgundy-hued bracelet, the brand has now introduced a more monochrome aesthetic, showcasing a new black dial accentuated by silver markers. Initial thoughts This year’s latest release is interesting to say the least. It encapsulates the enduring allure of traditional dive watches, but the modern color scheme takes from the classic allure. Unlike its predecessor, the new model does away with any gilt accents – which bestows this timepiece with a more minimalist and utilitarian aesthetic. True to Tudor’s tradition, the value proposition remains exceptional. Priced at US$4,225 for the steel model with a rubber strap (slightly higher with bracelet options, whether the five-link version or the vintage-inspired riveted bracelet), it compares favourably with similar sports watches. The Black Bay’s winning formula lies in its straightforward design with classic cues, excellent craftsmanship, and accessible price, solidifying its status as a compelling diver choice. Last year’s Black Bay 41 with its burgundy red bezel and gilt accents A black and silver livery One questionable aspect of the revamped design is the similarity it bears to the modern Rolex Submariners. The clean, silvered accented black dial resembles the iconic Submariner more than ever. Save for the new uniform colour scheme, the watch ha...

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Rolex Introduces Two Gem-Set White Gold Daytona Models With Mother-Of-Pearl Dials Fratello
Rolex Introduces Two Gem-Set White Apr 9, 2024

Rolex Introduces Two Gem-Set White Gold Daytona Models With Mother-Of-Pearl Dials

Last year, Rolex introduced the new Cosmograph Daytona collection, which featured a slightly more refined design than its predecessor and was met with great praise. This year, The Crown cranks up the bling with two diamond-set models with mother-of-pearl dials. While that may sound super flashy, these new models show wonderful restraint for a pair […] Visit Rolex Introduces Two Gem-Set White Gold Daytona Models With Mother-Of-Pearl Dials to read the full article.

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Introducing - The Classic Tudor Black Bay (41mm) Goes All-Black Monochrome
Tudor Black Bay 41mm Goes Apr 9, 2024

Introducing - The Classic Tudor Black Bay (41mm) Goes All-Black

Last year, Tudor unveiled a deeply refreshed version of its original Black Bay – understand the 41mm edition – featuring multiple important changes; Master Chronometer movement, updated and slimmer case, new bracelet options, new clasp, new crown and new bezel… Almost an entirely new watch. First presented in the classic burgundy and gold colour scheme, […]

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New Baltic Hermétique Glacier Limited Edition Watches Two Broke Watch Snobs
Baltic Hermétique Glacier Limited Edition Mar 22, 2024

New Baltic Hermétique Glacier Limited Edition Watches

The Baltic Hermétique line has been the brand's consciously sized, vintage-inspired dress/field watch with a crown that sits flush with the case. The versatility of the watch, due to its size and the ability to wear it on either wrist with the recessed crown, has made it a fan favorite. Baltic has chosen bold textures for the new limited edition dials but still keeps everything we know and love about the Hermétique line.

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First Look - The Longines HydroConquest GMT Now Gets a 43mm Option Monochrome
Longines HydroConquest GMT Now Gets Mar 21, 2024

First Look - The Longines HydroConquest GMT Now Gets a 43mm Option

Next to the vintage-inspired Legend Diver collection, the Longines HydroConquest is a more utilitarian, robust, classic diver, with water-resistance up to 300 metres, a unidirectional, external rotating bezel, a screw-in crown and a screw-down caseback. Following the introduction of the practical, versatile and mostly visually appealing HydroConquest GMT last year in a 41mm case, Longines […]

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Louis Vuitton travels the world through the new Escale Cabinet of Wonders Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton travels Mar 6, 2024

Louis Vuitton travels the world through the new Escale Cabinet of Wonders

Three new limited editions are relaunching the Escale line at Louis Vuitton. Inspired by highly decorated tsubas (katana sword guards) collected by Gaston-Louis Vuitton. Utilising a plethora of métiers d’art techniques to depict three evocative creatures. Louis Vuitton continues its overhaul of its watch lines under the leadership of Jean Arnault, where the brand has … ContinuedThe post Louis Vuitton travels the world through the new Escale Cabinet of Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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REVIEW: Hands On With The Piaget Polo Date WatchAdvice
Piaget Polo Date Feb 26, 2024

REVIEW: Hands On With The Piaget Polo Date

In my latest review, I tackle a brand that deserves more appreciation than it currently gets. But does the watch warrant the price tag? Let’s find out What We Love A ‘less is more’ design packed with fantastic detail Thin, wearable and versatile, even at 42mm Comfortable rubber strap What We Don’t The price point isn’t outside of reality, but it’s still steep Significant dead zone on the crown when winding or time-setting Is the double-security clasp really necessary? Overall Rating: 8.25/10 Value for money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 When I initially joined WatchAdvice, I met with Chamath and Matt over breakfast to discuss what the company was all about. From what I remember, an extract of that talk went about as follows: Chamath: It would be awesome if you could write a review! Name a watch brand, and I’ll happily try to secure something for you to review! Me: MB&F;! Chamath: Um… Try again, maybe? To be honest, totally understandable. If I were in Chamath’s position, giving the new guy access to an MB&F; LMP1 Evo from the jump is practically a death sentence – Leaving even the wrong piece of dust on one would probably end with me working for WatchAdvice in eternal ‘indentured servitude.’ So, I had to set my sights on more realistic opportunities. Note: I said more realistic and not lower. Even without access to the extremes of haute horlogerie, I still had a whole host of amazing brands to choose from. After thinking...

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Barrelhand Sends “Memory Disc” Case Back to the Moon SJX Watches
Urwerk inspired Project 1 Barrelhand Feb 22, 2024

Barrelhand Sends “Memory Disc” Case Back to the Moon

Best known for its Urwerk-inspired Project 1, Barrelhand is now working on the Monolith, a watch for astronauts featuring novel innovations, including an air-tight crown that can be adjusted in space or underwater. Described as a “professional grade EVA [extravehicular activity] tool watch compatible with current and next generation xEMU spacesuits”, the Monolith is a work in progress, however, a bit of it has just landed on the Moon. The case back of each Monolith will carry a “Memory Disc”, a nickel-alloy plate with 1,000 pages worth of micro-engraving. A permanent, analogue physical storage medium, it’s a time capsule of sorts. A single Memory Disc has just landed on the Moon as part of the payload on the IM-1  mission carried by the Nova-C lunar lander, nicknamed “Odysseus”, launched by Intuitive Machines, a privately-funded space exploration enterprise that has contracts with NASA to deliver cargo to the Moon. Alongside the Memory Disc, IM-1 also carried an artwork by Jeff Koons as well as a space camera, all of which will remain on the Moon (at least for now). Initial thoughts The Monolith is an interesting proposition as according to Karel Bachand, Barrelhand’s founder, the watch is developed to pass the “EVA tests originally outlined for the Apollo missions… [and] we have full documents outlining the criteria and corresponding tests it needs to pass.” Although detailed specifications of the watch are not yet available – they will be when th...

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[VIDEO] The Tudor Black Bay THUNDERDOME! Worn & Wound
Tudor Black Bay THUNDERDOME! It Feb 21, 2024

[VIDEO] The Tudor Black Bay THUNDERDOME!

It was bound to happen. You get enough Black Bays in a room together, and they’re going to fight it out until there’s only one diver standing. Zach Kazan, Zach Weiss, and Kat Shoulders are all big Tudor fans, and have gravitated toward various corners of the Black Bay universe over the last few years in the dive watch’s decade-plus history. In this video, sides are chosen, and a battle is waged to crown the best Black Bay.  Kat’s choice, the Black Bay 54, was the darling of last year’s Watches & Wonders festivities. An immediate hit for its slender, vintage inspired footprint, the 54 is effectively a recreation of a classic vintage Tudor with all the conveniences of a modern watch. The only question: is it too small? And does it cannibalize the Black Bay 58, a watch that was once at the top of the enthusiast food chain (and not too long ago) but now might be redundant for many.  Zach Weiss picked the Black Bay Pro, another Watches & Wonders release, this one from 2022. While we’re still not sure exactly what makes it “pro,” there’s no denying the utility of a GMT equipped diver. The Black Bay Pro borrows some of its key attributes from well known vintage Rolex references (that fixed steel 24 hour bezel is clearly meant to evoke old and new Explorer IIs) but is still very much its own thing. It’s a hard watch not to like, unless you insist on complicated and robust sports watches being thinner than one could reasonably expect for about $4,000. We addre...

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Review: the Fujifilm X100v Worn & Wound
Feb 15, 2024

Review: the Fujifilm X100v

Editor’s Note: Chris Gampat is a New York City based photographer who founded The Phoblographer in 2009, where he serves as Editor-in-Chief and Publisher. Therapy is a beautiful thing – it’s why we have soul-soothing hobbies like horology. The winding action of a Seagull 1963’s crown is a meditative process that reminds us to sometimes slow down when the seconds of a day are still ticking away. It’s a lot like turning the shutter speed dial on a camera – except that those are broken down into fractions of a second.  Ask any photographer: if there were any iconic camera of recent years on the mind, it would be the Fujifilm X100v (MSRP $1399). Most of us appreciated it like a constant partner to walk hand in hand with as we documented everyday life. This appreciation spurred love letters and video vignettes by the TikTok community, of whom many perhaps discovered the deep love one can have for an aesthetic camera such as this. But can this romantic gem capture the moment that a watch lover can understand? There’s an appreciation for mechanical devices that we establish through our hobbies and pastimes. That appreciation is realized when you pick up the Fujifilm X100v. In cold weather, it feels like a cold memory documenter that will be with you through the most beautiful moments of your vacation. Looking at the front, we’re immediately understanding the retro appeal. The iconic shape of the camera is recognizable by nearly anyone. It’s here that we also se...

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Tudor Predictions 2024 - The Potential Return of the Tudor Oysterdate Big Block Chronograph Monochrome
Tudor Predictions 2024 – Feb 13, 2024

Tudor Predictions 2024 - The Potential Return of the Tudor Oysterdate Big Block Chronograph

A few days ago, the MONOCHROME team delivered our yearly forecast of potential launches for the 2024 Rolex Collection. As always, we try our best to guess what the Crown will be presenting at the watch industry’s largest fair, Watches and Wonders. While trying to imagine and design these potential Rolex models, we also started […]

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New: Panerai Luminor Due PAM01424 Burgundy Deployant
Panerai Luminor Due PAM01424 Burgundy Jan 20, 2024

New: Panerai Luminor Due PAM01424 Burgundy

The Panerai Luminor Due was a collection which was first introduced in 2017, as the mid-sized, unisex Luminor model. The movement then was designated as the OP XXXIV which is assumed to have been renamed the P.900 caliber which is now found inside the new Due. The 42mm case Luminor Due bears the same crown guard as the iconic Luminor Marina, but with only 50m water resistance. Its slim profile and polished case is a marked stylistic variation from the original dive watch. The new dial color adds a nice statement to the hybrid classic timepiece.

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First Look - The New Zenith Pilot Automatic and Big Date Flyback Blue Boutique Editions Monochrome
Zenith Pilot Automatic Jan 16, 2024

First Look - The New Zenith Pilot Automatic and Big Date Flyback Blue Boutique Editions

Nearly a year ago, Zenith made a striking debut with the all-new Pilot collection, introducing the Big Date Flyback chronograph and the Automatic models, both available in either stainless steel or black ceramic. A departure from the earlier Zenith Pilot references, these watches showcased a fresh look, featuring a new case and crown, dial designs, […]

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Which Rolex Models Might Become Future Classics? Watchbox’s Tim Mosso and Mike Manjos Answer that Question with Analytics and Trends (Video) - Reprise Quill & Pad
Rolex Models Might Become Future Jan 14, 2024

Which Rolex Models Might Become Future Classics? Watchbox’s Tim Mosso and Mike Manjos Answer that Question with Analytics and Trends (Video) - Reprise

Which Rolex models will be most sought after by collectors in the future? That’s not a trick question. And Watchbox’s director of media Tim Mosso and global head of trading Mike Manjos are here to answer it for you in the second episode of Watchbox’s new video series “Around the Crown,” which is dedicated to future classics from the Rolex catalog.

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Introducing: The Omega Speedmaster '57 (Again), This Time With Broad Arrow Hands - Finally! Hodinkee
Omega Speedmaster 57 Again Jan 11, 2024

Introducing: The Omega Speedmaster '57 (Again), This Time With Broad Arrow Hands - Finally!

Something strange happened in 2013. Omega released a new self-winding Speedmaster with its killer co-axial movement and called it the Speedmaster '57. It looked like the original reference 2915 from 1957 in so, so many ways, right down to the crown-guard-less, polished case, and steel bezel. It was, as I called it back then, a superb offering for someone looking for a vintage-looking watch with great styling but with modern technology at a great price, from a blue-chip brand. But one thing really bugged me about that watch – where were the broad-arrow hands? You call it a Speedmaster '57, and do everything right except give it its most identifiable trait? I didn't get it, I still don't, but it doesn't matter now because Omega went ahead and fixed that.

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Hands-on - The Surprisingly Appealing Union Glashütte 1893 Johannes Dürrstein Edition Power Reserve Monochrome
Union Glashütte Dec 20, 2023

Hands-on - The Surprisingly Appealing Union Glashütte 1893 Johannes Dürrstein Edition Power Reserve

Let’s cut to the chase. In my book, the Union Glashütte 1893 Johannes Dürrstein Edition Power Reserve takes the crown as one of the most aesthetically pleasing, if not the most attractive watch currently offered by the brand. I’ve appreciated certain pieces in the Belisar and Noramis collections, and Union Glashütte consistently demonstrates a keen […]

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