Deployant
Review: The New H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Retrograde Seconds
H. Moser & Cie presents the Pioneer Retrograde Seconds, the Swiss brand's first timepiece with a retrograde seconds display.
1,075 articles · 73 videos found · page 13 of 39
Deployant
H. Moser & Cie presents the Pioneer Retrograde Seconds, the Swiss brand's first timepiece with a retrograde seconds display.
Monochrome
While the Streamliner has positioned itself as H. Moser’s flagship luxury sports watch, the Pioneer has been fighting its corner since 2015 as the brand’s sportiest, all-terrain, entry-level model. Starting with a Centre Seconds model, the collection escalated in complexity to include a Tourbillon, a Perpetual Calendar and even a skeletonised Cylindrical Tourbillon model. Thanks […]
SJX Watches
A dormant name recently revived, Edouard Koehn was once famous for its high-quality pocket watches, usually signed “Ed. Koehn”, one of which inspired the Legacy Rattrapante Split-Seconds Chronograph. Powered by an automatic calibre made by Concepto, the Legacy Rattrapante has a fired enamel dial inside a stainless steel case. Initial thoughts Though it was resurrected only a short while ago, Edouard Koehn has put out a variety of watches, ranging from chunky sports watches to world-timers. The Legacy Rattrapante is its most classical design to date. The styling essentially replicates a vintage pocket watch, so it’s not imaginative, but the functional simplicity is appealing. But because the watch employs a Concepto calibre, it is thick at 14.6 mm high, which is at odds with the vintage-inspired design. And the Legacy Rattrapante is also pricey at almost CHF16,000, or about US$19,000. Though the fired enamel dial is an expensive bonus, it still costs double the Habring² Doppel, which has a more sophisticated movement for almost half the price. Pocket watch style Born in Germany, Edouard Koehn (1839-1908) was a watchmaker who worked at Patek Philippe before establishing his own brand in Geneva that produced watches signed “Ed. Koehn” as well as under the brand name, H.R. Ekegren, a Danish brand he acquired. Koehn’s son, also named Edouard, inherited the firm, which went bust during the Great Depression. Several years ago, the Edouard Koehn trademark was acquir...
SJX Watches
Having gone all in with the Tonda PF sports watch in the last couple of years, Parmigiani Fleurier recently revived its classic dress watch with the Toric Petite Seconde. Named after the model that launched the brand in 1996, the Toric Petite Seconde is a simple, three-hand watch. Despite its simplicity, the new Toric is expensively executed – the dial and hands are solid 18k gold, as are the bridges and base plate of the PF780 movement, a newly-developed manual-wind calibre. Style wise, the Toric takes after the earlier generation of the model and retains the signature knurled bezel, but presented in a minimalist manner with a wide, clean dial reminiscent of the Tonda PF. The platinum with a “grey celadon” dial (Editor’s note: The watches pictured are pre-production prototypes and consequently have imperfections in detail and finishing, including on the dial.) Initial thoughts Parmigiani accurately describes the Toric design as minimalist and the PF780 movement as modernist. And as expected of Parmigiani, the quality is excellent, inside and out. The Toric is dress watch but feels large at almost 41 mm in diameter, but the case stays thin at under 9 mm. Even though the Toric is obviously a dress watch, it almost also feels like a casual everyday watch because of the size, dial colours, and stock straps. I assume more formal dial colours like black in the pipeline; they would give this a decidedly different look. The case has the trademark knurled bezel, but is oth...
SJX Watches
Having pioneered the use of carbon-fibre reinforced polymer for watches cases with the Royal Oak Offshore Alinghi Team of 2007, Audemars Piguet (AP) is returning with a new generation of the material that debuts in the Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT. Based on the original model in old-school titanium, the new split-seconds chronograph has a carbon composite case made using Chroma Forged Technology (CFT) that allows for greater colour and patterning in the material. As a result, the CFT carbon case has the typical marbled appearance of carbon composite, but flecked with blue veins that glow in the dark. Initial thoughts The Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT might seem like yet another variant of AP’s popular model, but it is equipped with one of the brand’s latest movements, the cal. 4407. The movement boasts a modern, sophisticated construction, along with one of the most innovative implementations of the split-seconds mechanism in modern watchmaking. The CFT carbon case dresses up the movement in more eye-catching attire, especially for those who found the first version in titanium too conventional. Although the new split-seconds only includes blue as an accent, the range of colours is essentially limitless since CFT carbon can be coloured in myriad hues. That means more colour variations are surely in the pipeline. Though novel for AP, coloured or luminous carbon composite is not a new concept since the material been used for watch ca...
Video
Today, more than one billion around the world live with some form of vision loss. With the right care, 90% of it is completely preventable. Kathleen Sherin, President and CEO of Orbis International, describes how Orbi...
Monochrome
A year ago, Louis Erard and watch influencer The Horophile (Amr Sindi) joined forces to create a special trilogy of the brand’s Petite Seconde known as the Metropolis. Following the same Art Deco recipe, the latest Petite Seconde Metropolis flaunts an attractive green dial, and comes in a non-limited edition. Since Manuel Emch’s arrival as […]
Fratello
I dare say there wasn’t a single French Air Force pilot in the 1950s who could’ve foreseen a blue sky with pixelated white clouds in the sub-dials of his Type 20. Airain’s Tom van Wijlick, however, dared to do something different with one of the most iconic pilot’s watches of all time by contacting Romaric […] Visit Introducing: The Airain × Seconde/Seconde/ Type 20 “Up In The Air” Limited Edition to read the full article.
Fratello
At the end of last year, I went hands-on with the colorful new versions of the Orient Bambino 38. I was surprised by how much value these watches packed for their very affordable price. The Fratelli in the comments were also impressed. Now the Japanese brand is introducing a more formal Bambino 38. Its four […] Visit Introducing: The New Orient Bambino 38 Small Seconds to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Just last week, Chris Antzoulis brought you a profile of Romaric André, the designer behind seconde/seconde/. At this point, most of you who will find this story will know all about Romaric and seconde/seconde/, so the usual introductory blurb explaining what this is, exactly, can easily be excised. It’s probably enough to say that over the last few years, seconde/seconde/ has become ubiquitous, collaborating with brands of all kinds and at all price points. It’s gotten to the point where much of the conversation around these collaborations is not actually about the collaboration or the design, but about the momentum of André’s brand. His watches, once rare and genuinely special, are now the subject of a seemingly weekly (an exaggeration, but not a huge one) limited edition. It’s impossible not to ask where we’re heading, and how we’ll get there. Maybe part of the answer lies in the latest collaboration (at least by my count – there could be a new announcement buried in my inbox that I haven’t seen yet). The new watch is André’s second collaboration with Maen, one of our favorite small brands producing watches that truly impress with their design and finishing, always priced well below what you would expect. Their first collaboration, a limited edition version of the Manhattan with a cocktail inspired dial, was issued last year and sold out immediately. It was (and still is) one of my favorite seconde/seconde/ pieces. It’s playful, a natural visual...
Worn & Wound
If you’re involved in the watch industry to any degree, even as a collector, you’ve definitely heard of seconde/seconde/, or at least seen his work. Timex, Bausele, Lima, Squale, Atelier Wen, Bamford Watch Co., Spinnaker, Furlan Marri, Maen, Sequent, Isotope, Louis Erard, Vulcain, Nivada Grenchen - high end, entry level, micro brand, independent, and large established companies. Romaric André (seconde/seconde/) has vandalized the world of watches at every level. He makes us smile, and causes many of us to view this large and serious industry with a bit of levity and added consideration. I connected with Romaric via Instagram. During the month of January my hand was broken, so instead of posting my own wrist shots I thought it would be fun to highlight friends in the Instagram watch community. One such friend had a Timex x seconde/seconde/ Polar collaboration with a wonderful whirling penguin rotating for a seconds hand. I made a comment in the caption stating that I wish I had jumped on the Timex x seconde/seconde/ collaboration, and moments later Romaric popped into my DM’s to let me know where I could get one at retail price. It brought me such joy to connect with him and get the watch, but it also opened the door for me to conduct an interview and get to know a bit about the man behind all the fun. Although it might seem like seconde/seconde/ has been part of our community only recently, he’s actually been involved with watches for some time. After going ...
Video
On this channel, we review watches that are available for purchase on TeddyBaldassarre.com
Fratello
Four years ago, H. Moser & Cie. gave the watch world the Streamliner Centre Seconds Matrix Green. The watch became a fan favorite and earned the nickname “Green Dragon.” Since 2024 is the Year of the Dragon in Chinese astrology, the return of the “Green Dragon” is hardly a surprise. The fact that the illustrious […] Visit Introducing: The Updated H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Centre Seconds Matrix Green And Purple Haze to read the full article.
SJX Watches
A budget-friendly dress watch, the Orient Bambino is robust and usually priced well below US$300, making it a good option for the entry-level or budget-minded watch enthusiast. Now, the Japanese watch brand added the Bambino 38 “Small Seconds” to the range. Offered in steel or a gold-plated finish, the new Bambino combines a compact case with a retro-style dial featuring a sub-seconds at six and Roman numerals. Initial thoughts The Bambino in its many variants is a compelling value proposition, marrying good quality with an attractive design. It’s the Orient equivalent of the Seiko 5. The model’s past designs have been a mixed bag, while the new Small Seconds is a more cohesive design. The latest iterations, particularly the silver dial, evoke 1930s watches with the railroad minute track and alternating baton-and-Roman markers. However, as is sometimes the case with vintage-inspired designs, this would benefit from revamping of the date, which is practical but gets in the way of the design. Aside from the cosmetic enhancements, the Bambino 38 Small Seconds retains the same in-house calibre as its predecessors, a no-frills movement that isn’t pretty but adequate given the model’s affordability. Retailing for US$344 for the steel models and a $24 hike for the gold-plated version, these remain commendable value propositions. A vintage-inspired dress watch The latest addition to the Bambino collection incorporates many elements from the existing models. It inhe...
SJX Watches
An ambitious evolution of its signature square-cased chronograph, the Monaco Split-Seconds was first revealed as a unique piece for Only Watch. Although the regular production version was launched earlier this year, the one-off example made for Only Watch remains unique for the finishing on the case and movement. Initial thoughts Powered by a sophisticated Vaucher calibre, the Monaco rattrapante is mostly made of titanium – the alloy is used for the case and movement – and a deft evolution of the Monaco case. On the wrist, the watch feels good as it is noticeably lightweight despite being quite large. The case design is evidently derived from the original but smartly reworked to give it a more pronounced, stylised form. Details like the facetted sapphire crystals and oversized pushers complement the styling. Overall, the aesthetic is the hyper-mechanical look of the same school as Richard Mille and Hublot, but here executed to a high level thanks to the Vaucher calibre that’s hand finished. The only element of the design I would do away with is the “X” bridge on the dial, which feels like an affectation that doesn’t really do much for the design. But overall the aesthetic is cohesive and appealing. Importantly, the watch acquits itself well up close. The finishing on the titanium bridges and plates of the movement is particularly impressively, given the difficulty of achieving a mirror polish on the alloy. And because the Vaucher calibre is a high-end construct...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
An introduction to the Citizen Super-Titanium Small Seconds watch with its familiar "Tsuyosa" design, new dial colors, and a titanium case.
Worn & Wound
If the narrative around Watches & Wonders 2024 is a slate of subdued, iterative watches that are somewhat short on the “wonders,” a take that has been forming even before the beginning of the show, counterpoints will inevitably be offered in the discourse. This year’s flashiest release from TAG Heuer, the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph, is perhaps the most compelling piece of evidence that some brands, even the absolute largest among them, are still trying to wow us. It’s a big, bold reminder that the “AG” in TAG stands for avant-garde, and after a year spent focusing on one of the best consumer products the brand has released in years in their Glassbox line of Carreras, it points toward their other key strength. TAG is showcasing the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph as the next stage in a long line of precision chronographs, going back a more than a century, beginning with the legendary Mikrograph in 1916, a stopwatch used in Olympic timekeeping in the 1920s and 1930s that was capable of recording timing intervals to the 1/100th of a second. This watch was followed by the Microsplit, which could do the same, but with the addition of rattrapante functionality. Heuer continued to produce iconic chronographs and stopwatches throughout the 1960s, always making the most of the watchmaking technology available. That includes quartz timekeeping, with the introduction of a battery powered split-second chronograph worn by some of the most recognizable names in moto...
Video
Welcome to the watch releases for the second week of August 2026. We have new watches from Seiko, IWC and more. Enjoy the video!
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer’s flagship launch at Watches & Wonders 2024 is the Monaco Split Seconds Chronograph, the brand’s first-ever mechanical split-seconds chronograph wristwatch. Initially launched as a piece unique for the postponed 2023 edition of Only Watch, the Monaco Split Seconds now enters regular production in red and blue liveries. Titanium inside and out with an integrated movement developed by Vaucher – the movement bridges and plates are titanium – the Monaco Split Seconds is a premium product with a premium price that puts the brand in the haute horlogerie segment, which also communicates a mixed message given the brand’s focus on affordable chronographs. Initial thoughts While sports timekeeping is core to TAG Heuer’s DNA, the brand’s only wrist-worn split seconds chronographs to date were of the quartz and digital variety. And given the delayed sale of the Only Watch example, the Monaco Split Seconds will be TAG Heuer’s first mechanical split-seconds chronograph sold publicly, enhancing the collector appeal. One of the most iconic square watches in history – and probably the only recognisable sports chronograph with a form case – the Monaco has proven adaptable to both retro and futuristic designs over the years; the Split Seconds is of course the latter. While I find the overall styling a bit over the top, especially the X-shaped braces that form part of the dial, I can’t help but admire many of the details, such as the stepped box sapphire crysta...
Worn & Wound
The latest release from Louis Erard expands their Excellence Petite Seconde range, and includes another release in that collection’s 39mm case size. Louis Erard has really become a collector favorite over the last few years with their many collaborative limited editions and (relatively) affordable ways to buy into design codes that traditionally represent true high luxury watchmaking, and they’ve done it mostly on the back of a 42mm case. It’s always notable when we see them release something new in their easier to wear 39mm case size, and with the Excellence Petite Seconde Guilloche (in two sizes) we also have a watch that’s really playing into that high luxury aesthetic with an unusually complex dial. These watches are really a celebration of guilloche itself, and seek to present the decorative technique in a more classical way than something like the brand’s much more contemporary guilloche LE from a few years ago. The larger 42mm watch features gray and black tones, while the smaller 39mm watch features a rich blue and gray for contrast. The dials are made in four parts, and highlight contrasting guilloche patterns. The central section has a traditional wave-like pattern that is meant to cast light directly from the dial’s center. An outer section, where you’ll find the hour track, features what’s known as a “panier” motif, which has the appearance of slightly staggered scales. This pattern is repeated in the small seconds subdial at the 6:00 posi...
Worn & Wound
Isotope has unveiled a new limited edition, made in collaboration with Seconde/Seconde/ to celebrate the former’s seventh anniversary. I’ve become a pretty big fan of the Isotope design language over the years – brand founder José Miranda has a good eye for color, and is one of only a handful in the industry who dares to inject a bit of humor into his watch designs. Seconde/Seconde/, of course, is all about the jokes, so when I heard there was a collaboration in the works, I was pretty excited to see what would come of it. The end result, the Hydrium Seconde/Seconde/, is surprisingly subtle, but better for it. The high level brief here is “a Memento Mori watch, without a skull.” That, in and of itself, is kind of funny, at least if you’ve been tracking recent watches that take the Memento Mori as design inspiration. Why a death obsessed watch for a seven year anniversary? Isotope has retired their old logo, and just like life itself, the end of a logo is inevitable. The new logo takes the focus from Isotope’s “i” hand and shifts it toward the lacrima, the tear shape that has become a defining characteristic of the design of every watch they’ve made. The new logo is bolder and more sophisticated to my eye, so yeah, good riddance to the old. A fresh start never hurt anyone. The design itself makes a few small changes to the familiar Hydrium dive watch platform. The (new) logo now reads “OTOPSIE” (autopsy) rather than “ISOTOPE,” with arrows sh...
Deployant
Read a detailed review of the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Centre Seconds Smoked Salmon watch, featuring a cushion-shaped steel case, a fumé dial, and an in-house automatic movement with a 3-day power reserve. This vintage-inspired special edition watch comes with an integrated steel bracelet and is water resistant to 12 ATM.
SJX Watches
Last year Habring² finally delivered something collectors had long been seeking, a compact version of its signature split-seconds chronograph, which now forms the base for the Doppel 38 “Monochrome x Habring²”. A one-off that will be sold at Phillips’ upcoming Geneva auction to benefit charity, the Doppel 38 is a collaboration between Habring² and Monochrome Watches, online watch magazine based in the Netherlands. The Doppel 38 takes its cues from the limited-edition chronograph Habring² made for the 15th anniversary of Netherlands-based Monochrome. Initial thoughts The one-off Doppel 38 is essentially a more complex version of Monochrome’s 15th anniversary edition, the Montre de Souscription 1 (MDS1), which was a conventional, single-button chronograph. Naturally the Doppel 38 sports a split-seconds movement and consequently, a slightly thicker case, but it is aesthetically almost identical to the MDS1, having the same “salmon” dial. Ordinarily, reissuing a limited edition in near-identical format is a no-no, but in this case it is both sensible and appealing because the Doppel 38 is a one-of-a-kind creation and it will be sold to benefit a children’s charity. It’s being offered with an estimate of CHF10,000-20,000 – the low estimate is approximately the retail price of the regular production Doppel 38 – which is certainly acceptable. And given the worthy recipient of the proceeds, one certainly hopes for more than the high estimate. Subtle tweaks ...
Video
On this channel, we review watches that are available for purchase on TeddyBaldassarre.com
Revolution
Roger Dubuis CEO Nicola Andreatta shows Revolution Founder Wei Koh the Roger Dubuis Monovortex Split Seconds Chronograph, an absorbing work of architecture and feat of engineering that beats gravity. Firstly, its high-efficiency Turborotor Cylindrical Oscillating Weight harnesses gravity to power the watch and necessitated eight months of research and development. Next, its Conical Monovortex Tourbillon […]
SJX Watches
Founded by watchmakers Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat, Petermann Bédat made its debut with the 1967 powered by an elaborately finished movement featuring a deadbeat seconds. Now, the duo has just unveiled their next creation which is a step-up in complexity – the Reference 2941, a mono-pusher split-seconds chronograph. Presented in a 38 mm platinum case and limited to ten pieces, the 2941 follows the design language of the 1967 with a transparent dial and an emphasis on movement finishing. Initial thoughts The 2941 at a glance is a conceptually impressive release that meets the high expectations resulting from its previous release. But perhaps one may ponder over the under-dial execution of the split-seconds mechanism (as opposed to a traditional approach that puts it on the back). Undoubtedly, the finishing remains top notch. The movement sports numerous gracefully formed bridges and a notable emphasis on black-polished components. More broadly, it is uncommon to see a new chronograph movement designed from the ground up, even more so a rattrapante with an instantaneously jumping minute counter. That said, the movement architecture seems paradoxical. Part of the appeal of a finely-finished split-seconds chronograph is the intricate and layered view of the rattrapante mechanism on top of the chronograph seen through a display case back. Thus, Petermann Bedat’s approach of installing the split-seconds under the dial is questionable, particularly considering the n...
Deployant
Petermann-Bedat just released their new Monopusher Split Seconds Chronograph Ref. 2941. Here is our comprehensive review.
Worn & Wound
Louis Erard has unveiled their first new watches of 2023, and they build on one of the brand’s key developments from last year. Usually when this brand comes to mind, enthusiasts think of their watches with regulator layouts, and the many interesting collaborations they’ve undertaken in the last few years as they’ve really gained traction with collectors. The Petite Seconde, part of their Excellence collection, is perhaps a little slept on by comparison. These are simple three handers, and not as flashy or unusual as the regulators (well, except for this one), but they have a charm of their own and represent a kind of simple, elegant watch that used to be quite common but is now harder to find in an environment dominated by sport and tool watches. The new watches introduced today all use plenty of vibrant color, and come in a case size that collectors have been asking for. The 39mm Petite Seconde case seen here made its debut just about a year ago with the Petite Seconde Terracotta, a coppery, earthy spin on a traditional format. Until that point, the Petite Seconde had only been available in a 42mm case, which while not enormous by most standards, certainly stretched the limits for a watch of this type, which is at least attempting to approach a certain level of refinement. Notably, the Terracotta was available in either a 39mm or 42mm case, while no such option has been made available for this colorful trio. We’re not sure if that’s a signal that Louis Erard ...
SJX Watches
Amongst the wave of new Royal Oaks just unveiled by Audemars Piguet (AP) is a new “Concept”, the Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT. Historically a platform to showcase novel materials and aggressive design, the new Royal Oak Concept (ROC) continues down that route – but more notably contains an all-new and cleverly-constructed rattrapante chronograph movement with automatic winding. Initial thoughts Much like previous models in the ROC line, the new split-seconds chronograph is a bold statement with a chunky, aggressive case, albeit one refined to become more wearable, especially in light of its size – it is the most wearing Concept to date. Paradoxically, the movement within the large-format case was clearly designed with thinness in mind. For a split-seconds chronograph with a big date, second time zone, and automatic winding, the movement measures a modest 8.92 mm high, svelte by the standards of the complications mix. And in contrast to the design (which brings to mind the Richard Mille RM 11), the movement is unusually refined and clever. An example of is the rotor that’s supported by a large central hub, which provides enough space in the middle to house the entire split-seconds mechanism. This serves to both reduce thickness, while simultaneously offering a view of the rattrapante mechanism without being obstructed by the rotor. Deceptively oversized As with most of its counterparts in the collection, the new ROC has a geometrically-shape...
Video
On this channel, we review watches that are available for purchase on TeddyBaldassarre.com
Question, suggestion, or just want to say hi? Drop a note.