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Le Brassus

Vallée de Joux village that has been Audemars Piguet HQ since 1875; also home to APRP movement development.

The Gérald Genta Oursin is Reborn SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton s La Fabrique du Jun 7, 2024

The Gérald Genta Oursin is Reborn

Recently revived by Louis Vuitton’s La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), Gérald Genta has just taken the covers off the Gentissima Oursin. Comprising three watches inspired by a 1994 model, the Oursin is a gently reworked take on the original, retaining the round, pebble-like case covered in studs and subtly facetted sapphire crystal. Though compact like the original, the modern-day Oursin is instead cased in titanium but fitted with solid-gold studs. Initial thoughts  In contrast to last year’s Mickey Mouse minute repeater, the Oursin is simple in terms of the movement, but it stands out for the complexity of the case construction as well as the striking design that is quintessential Genta. Though the revived Oursin faithfully recreates the original, subtle improvements have been made to the design, most notably with the reworked lugs tucked under the case, giving it a seamless outline. Another upgrade is the Zenith Elite movement within that replaces the ETA of the original. The new Oursin, however, remains similar in size to the original at 36.5 mm. I personally would have wanted something a little bigger, because the compact dimensions make the watch feel more decorative and ornate. The Oursin starts at CHF22,000 in titanium with white gold studs, with the version featuring diamonds on the studs priced at CHF32,000. While not quite a value proposition, the prices are fair considering the construction as well as brand. Quintessential Genta French for “[sea] urchin”, o...

The Real Story Behind Steve McQueen’s Heuer Monaco: Exclusive Interview with ‘Le Mans’ Property Master Don Nunley Quill & Pad
Apr 7, 2024

The Real Story Behind Steve McQueen’s Heuer Monaco: Exclusive Interview with ‘Le Mans’ Property Master Don Nunley

Back in the 1970s, Steve McQueen was the king of cool: he was a world-famous movie star and a prominent racecar driver. So it's no surprise that the Heuer Monaco he wore in the film 'Le Mans' instantly became a hit. But what happened to the Monaco models used on set and where are they today? Chris Malburg interviews the propmaster to find out.

Introducing - IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Tourbillon Le Petit Prince Monochrome
IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Dec 1, 2023

Introducing - IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Tourbillon Le Petit Prince

IWC goes to town with its Big Pilot’s Watch, fitted with a tourbillon and dedicated to the protagonist of Le Petit Prince, the charming prince from Antoine de Saint-Exupéry’s novella. Flaunting the Petit Prince sub-collection’s hallmark blue dial, the latest Big Pilot’s Watch belongs to the downsized, more manageable 43mm version introduced in 2021. Since […]

Business News: Only Watch Reveals Details About Financials and Research SJX Watches
Ming ly dressed Oct 9, 2023

Business News: Only Watch Reveals Details About Financials and Research

After a unnervingly long wait, Only Watch issued a detailed statement explaining its activities and financials in response to allegations on social media about financial improprieties. While some of the allegations were unfounded, some were useful questions that had to be asked. Fortunately, the statement by Only Watch is not only comprehensive but also promises more to come (once the audited statements are prepared by KPMG Monaco in response to a recently promulgated law in the principality where Only Watch is based). More is certainly needed, but for now the response from Only Watch will quiet reasonable observers. Initial thoughts When the accusations about wrongdoings at Only Watch first emerged on social media, I was sceptical because by and large I believe in Only Watch (I even bought one of the Only Watch timepieces several years ago, albeit an inexpensive one). That said, I could see why such questions came about. The event has become extremely high profile and its founder, Luc Pettavino, a celebrity seemingly dressed in over the top jackets all the time. This all unsurprisingly led to criticism. Still, the fundamental purpose of the auction felt like a genuine cause. I did think some of the questions raised on social media were germane. I expected a swift response from Only Watch, but that took what seemed like a long, long time. Now the reply has arrived and it contains sufficient information that I am reassured, as I think most observers will be. Amongst the not...

Rado Brings their Ongoing Work with the Foundation Le Corbusier to the True Square Line with Three New Limited Editions Worn & Wound
Rado Brings their Ongoing Work Sep 18, 2023

Rado Brings their Ongoing Work with the Foundation Le Corbusier to the True Square Line with Three New Limited Editions

When two masters in their respective industry collide, something magic is sure to happen. That’s exactly the feeling one gets when looking at Rado, the Master of Materials, and Le Corbusier, the master of design, as the two legacies meld into a release of new references. Adding three new colorways selected from the 63-shade Architectural Polychromy palette to the distinct True Square collection, we’re seeing a heightened look at craftsmanship and design that shows the sum is often greater than its parts. Rado has long had a relationship with the Foundation Le Corbusier for their True Thinline set of watches, but these three new releases from the brand are the first to utilize the sportier design of the True Square silhouette. This design is marked by a high-tech ceramic case coming in at a comfortable and discreet 37 x 43.3 mm, perfect for nearly any wrist size. The real beauty of this watch is the balance of technical precision and everyday use, mixing a Rado caliber R420 quartz movement with high-tech innovative ceramic that Rado has become known for within the industry. For the three colorways themselves, each taken from the Architectural Polychromy, they’re a sleek and subtle scheme that fits perfectly against the backdrop of both Le Corbusier’s and Rado’s Swiss heritage. This collection includes Natural Umber, Iron Grey, and Ivory Black. The use of ceramic perfectly matches the tonal qualities of these three references, as Rado has perfected color blending w...

Richard Mille goes head to head with Rolex with their own Le Mans centenary-celebrating RM 72-01 LMC Limited Edition Time+Tide
Richard Mille goes head Jun 28, 2023

Richard Mille goes head to head with Rolex with their own Le Mans centenary-celebrating RM 72-01 LMC Limited Edition

Richard Mille and the Le Mans Classic have joined forces since 2002 While celebrating 100 years of Le Mans, the RM 72-01 LMC is limited to 150 pieces The ’16’ on the 24-hour counter is underlined in red, a nod to the traditional start time of the endurance race When the 24 Hours of Le … ContinuedThe post Richard Mille goes head to head with Rolex with their own Le Mans centenary-celebrating RM 72-01 LMC Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Louis Erard Introduces the Le Chronographe Monopoussoir Massena LAB SJX Watches
Louis Erard Introduces Jun 27, 2023

Louis Erard Introduces the Le Chronographe Monopoussoir Massena LAB

Louis Erard has once again joined forces with Massena LAB for another take on a common complication. Le Chronographe Monopoussoir draws inspiration from 19th century pocket watches and continues with the styling from the first time these two brands collaborated.  Initial thoughts Louis Erard’s brand identity is continually shaped and defined by its many partnerships. Its latest collaboration with Massena LAB continues this creative streak with a relatively classical complication in the form of a mono-pusher chronograph.  Building upon their collaboration from last year, the latest timepiece has kept the distinctive grained dial that is industrially finished but well executed. They have opted for a more restrained design by having just a single register at twelve, deviating from the traditional two- or three-register configuration of most chronographs. Despite the minimalist aesthetic, the watch is very big at 43 mm wide and 15.7 mm thick. The thickness in particular is a lot and the size may turn some people off. The carries a substantial presence on the wrist, arguably too much for a watch of this style. One reason for the size is the movement, which is the same Sellita calibre found in all Louis Erard chronographs, including the Alain Silberstein iteration. For that reason, it also remains in the same price range, with a retail of US$4,950, making it fair value as an interesting yet affordable chronograph. At the same time, this distinguishes itself through the class...

New Rolex Daytona revealed for 24 Hours of Le Mans race centenary - what you need to know Time+Tide
Rolex Daytona revealed Jun 10, 2023

New Rolex Daytona revealed for 24 Hours of Le Mans race centenary - what you need to know

New 18K white gold Rolex Daytona with special visual cues celebrates 100 years of 24 Hours of Le Mans race Uses a new 4132 calibre exclusive to the model that features a 24-hour counter rather than the standard 12-hour counter US$51,400 and not announced as a limited edition Rolex is typically viewed as the unfaltering … ContinuedThe post New Rolex Daytona revealed for 24 Hours of Le Mans race centenary – what you need to know appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rolex Introduces the Cosmograph Daytona “Le Mans” Ref. 126529LN SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces Jun 10, 2023

Rolex Introduces the Cosmograph Daytona “Le Mans” Ref. 126529LN

Having surprised everyone with the Perpetual 1908, “Bubbles”, and “Puzzles”, Rolex continues to do the unexpected. Launched to mark the 100th year of the 24 Hours of Le Mans, the Cosmograph Daytona ref. 126529 LN is a new model based on the latest-generation Daytona launched earlier this year. But the Daytona “Le Mans” is not merely a facelifted chronograph but contains the cal. 4132. The new movement swaps out the conventional 12-hour counter at nine for a 24-hour register in a nod to the famous endurance race that Rolex has sponsored for over two decades. But perhaps most pertinent for enthusiasts are sub-dials, which are modelled on the vintage Daytona “Paul Newman”. And while availability for the Daytona “Le Mans” will be limited, at least initially, it is a regular-production model that will be available at retailers and boutiques. Initial thoughts A new Daytona with a new movement is big news not because it’s majorly different – this is still very much a Daytona – but because Rolex rarely introduces new models outside of the annual watch fair in Switzerland. And when it does, the watch tends to be a surprise in more ways than one. The new Daytona is actually new, largely because contains a new calibre, a simple variation of the current Daytona movement, but one that is mechanically different nonetheless. The movement reflects the Rolex approach to engineering that does nothing in half measures. Even though the cal. 4132 inside the Daytona ...

Konstantin Chaykin and Louis Erard Team Up on Le Régulateur “Time-Eater” SJX Watches
Louis Erard Team Up Apr 25, 2023

Konstantin Chaykin and Louis Erard Team Up on Le Régulateur “Time-Eater”

With a knack for novel collaborations with partners ranging from industrial designers to guillocheurs, Louis Erard’s latest project brings on board Konstantin Chaykin. The result is Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin Time-Eater, a regulator-style wristwatch inspired by the Russian independent watchmaker’s signature “rolling eye” watches. Inspired by a one-eyed monster from Slavic folklore, the Time-Eater has a whimsical vibe that departs from Louis Erard’s more serious offerings like the recent example with a hand-made wood marquetry dial. It is available in either a 42 mm or 39 mm size, or both together in a two-piece box set. Initial thoughts  Following its successful collaborations with other notable watchmakers, it’s perhaps no surprise that Louis Erard recruited Konstantin Chaykin. Earlier partnerships, with Vianney Halter for instance, broadened the appeal of the independent watchmakers by making the name accessible at a far lower price point. Despite Mr Chaykin’s specialty in avant-garde or fantastical designs, the Time-Eater is surprisingly restrained compared to his own creations, no doubt because it is based on the existing template of the Louis Erard regulator. As a result, it is not the full-blown Konstantin Chaykin watch that collectors might expect from the Russian watchmaker. But then again, the price of about US$4,000 means the Time-Eater is about the fifth a price of Mr Chaykin’s trademark Minion watch. The Time-Eater watch is...

INTRODUCING: The Brellum Pilot LE.1 GMT Chronometer wants to become your frequent flyer Time+Tide
Feb 10, 2023

INTRODUCING: The Brellum Pilot LE.1 GMT Chronometer wants to become your frequent flyer

The Brellum Pilot LE.1 GMT Chronometer is their latest pilot’s watch. It features both GMT and chronograph complications. It’s a nice balance between sporty and dressy. We’ve shown a lot of love to Brellum’s Pandial series of watches in the past, but it’s been far too long since we’ve showcased their other capabilities. The new … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Brellum Pilot LE.1 GMT Chronometer wants to become your frequent flyer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Le Jour Delmare delivers a 1970s-inspired dive watch for a great price Time+Tide
Jan 16, 2023

MICRO MONDAYS: The Le Jour Delmare delivers a 1970s-inspired dive watch for a great price

Le Jour aren’t what you would typically consider a microbrand. They weren’t funded through a Kickstarter campaign, nor were they founded by a young visionary who wanted to shake up the watch industry. In fact, if the Le Jour brand name is familiar to you, it may be because they were quite a popular brand … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Le Jour Delmare delivers a 1970s-inspired dive watch for a great price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Brellum Pandial LE.3 DD DLC Chronometer Time+Tide
Nov 18, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Brellum Pandial LE.3 DD DLC Chronometer

It’s easy for panda-dialled chronographs to be pigeonholed into a specific look, or to draw comparisons with other watches that have popularised the colour scheme. Brellum’s latest addition to their Pandial line completely sidesteps this issue with a fairly unique concept - retaining the iconic panda style within a completely blacked-out case and bracelet coated … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Brellum Pandial LE.3 DD DLC Chronometer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Brellum Pandial LE.2 DD Chronometer Time+Tide
Oct 22, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Brellum Pandial LE.2 DD Chronometer

Calling Brellum a “microbrand” seems less fitting than ever given how successful their past few years have been. Instead of focusing on some kind of wild niche, fake backstories or crazy cases, Brellum are simply dedicated to delivering the highest quality possible for the best value price point. These are thoroughly luxury watches in execution … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Brellum Pandial LE.2 DD Chronometer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Le Jour Le Mans Chronograph collection is hotwired with 1960s racing vibes Time+Tide
Yema Oct 18, 2022

VIDEO: The Le Jour Le Mans Chronograph collection is hotwired with 1960s racing vibes

Having distributed watches for Yema and Heuer in the 1970s alongside producing their own spectacular chronographs, it’s surprising that Le Jour have so far focused on other styles such as their SeaColt and Coral divers. Now, the time has come for them to embrace their true heritage and release the Le Jour Le Mans - … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Le Jour Le Mans Chronograph collection is hotwired with 1960s racing vibes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Le Régulateur Louis Erard travels to the darkside with Label Noir Time+Tide
Louis Erard travels Sep 24, 2022

HANDS-ON: Le Régulateur Louis Erard travels to the darkside with Label Noir

A couple of years ago I wrote a few articles under the name The Modifier’s Series, providing an overview of the few brands capable of customising luxury watches to give them even more hype value. Outfits like MAD Paris, for example, managed to totally overhaul watches while catering to the modification requests of their clients, … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Le Régulateur Louis Erard travels to the darkside with Label Noir appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The refreshing Brellum Pilot LE.3 Power Reserve Chronometer Time+Tide
Jul 9, 2022

The refreshing Brellum Pilot LE.3 Power Reserve Chronometer

The brief at Brellum is usually quite simple, I presume. Create well-specced watches, in limited numbers, while minimising mark-ups. That last part is an often-heard filler for independent brands, but it’s also where Brellum differs from many - offering proper substance. The new Brellum Pilot LE.3 Power Reserve Chronometer happens to be one of the more … ContinuedThe post The refreshing Brellum Pilot LE.3 Power Reserve Chronometer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Michael Fassbender follows Newman and McQueen as an actor turned racer at Le Mans Time+Tide
Jun 17, 2022

Michael Fassbender follows Newman and McQueen as an actor turned racer at Le Mans

There’s a storied history of thrill-seeking actors jumping behind the wheel of a fast machine. There was Steve McQueen and his escapades on his motorbike and Paul Newman who spent decades racing in American series. They’re known as much for their acting prowess as they’re known for their love of racing. So it’s no surprise … ContinuedThe post Michael Fassbender follows Newman and McQueen as an actor turned racer at Le Mans appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.